It is necessary to carry out regular pumping of drains, as well as periodic visual inspections of the structure for leaks. The same rule applies to operation metal structure. very important!

In many summer cottages, in order to save money, they resort to building cesspools using ready-made factory containers made of various materials. This approach to the device drain hole allows you to significantly reduce the time required to install a wastewater receiver.

cesspool from a barrel can have a sealed or non-sealed design, the choice of which is determined by the amount of incoming sewage effluent.

To meet the needs of a family of 2 people, a cesspool without a bottom is sufficient. Such a structure works on the principle of a drainage well; in this case, wastewater treatment occurs due to the filtering properties of the soil. In this case, the processing of sewage waste is carried out by microorganisms present in the soil.

There is a limitation on the productivity of such a structure.

An unsealed barrel for a cesspool can only be used if the influx of wastewater does not exceed 1 cubic meter per day.

Ensure more wastewater is treated by soil filtration impossible, the risk of environmental pollution increases significantly.

In this case, it is necessary to install a sealed container of significant volume, acting as a storage device. When filling such a cesspool, the wastewater must be pumped out and removed for disposal using sewage disposal equipment. A sealed design is used in case of high groundwater levels, which prevent the filtration of wastewater entering the pit.

In addition to single-chamber sewage pits, overflow-type structures, which can consist of 2-3 series-connected compartments, are quite successfully operated. First sealed container plays the role of a settling tank in which wastewater is separated into various fractions.

In this case, the processing of the solid part of the wastewater is carried out by aerobic and anaerobic microorganisms, the cultures of which are added to the container. Subsequent compartments perform the function drainage wells, in some cases, wastewater after primary treatment is sent to filtration fields, providing greater efficiency and productivity.

Which barrel to choose for constructing a drainage pit?

Relatively recently, the only available material there were metal barrels. They were used on most summer cottages, where a significant amount of sewage treatment was not required. In many cases, a cesspool made from a metal barrel had a leaky design, for which purpose a cut was made along its surface. whole line drainage holes.

The main function of the metal was to prevent the walls of the pit from collapsing.

But it is worth considering the fact that these designs have a number of significant disadvantages:

• The metal is not resistant to corrosion, so literally after 3-4 years the barrel simply rots.
• A container of significant volume has a significant weight, so its installation often requires the use of lifting equipment.
• Steel containers cannot be classified as cheap materials; a barrel with a volume of more than 1 cubic meter costs a considerable amount.

If, nevertheless, the choice is made on a metal container, before installing it it is necessary to carry out a number of works to waterproof it, this will help to slightly increase its service life. In this case, it is advisable to carefully process both the internal and outer surface barrels.

IN Lately All in great demand began to use containers made of polymer materials. On sale you can find barrels made of PVC, polyethylene, polypropylene and even fiberglass.

Experts attribute the following characteristics to the advantages of such devices:

• A cesspool made from a plastic barrel has an almost unlimited service life; it can last 30-40 years or more.
• The light weight of the material greatly simplifies the installation of the structure; even a large barrel can be installed in the pit manually.
• All types of polymer materials are resistant to aggressive chemical compounds found in wastewater and groundwater.
• The mechanical strength of such containers allows them to withstand significant pressure loads created by the surrounding soil.
• The sealed design of the plastic barrel allows for reliable protection from environmental pollution.
• Plastic containers are widely used to construct overflow systems for recycling and wastewater treatment.

In order for the pit design to be durable and ensure effective collection and treatment of sewage, it is necessary to adhere to certain installation rules.

How to install a cesspool from a barrel?

The pit for constructing the pit should be slightly larger in size than the dimensions of the container. If it is planned to build a leaky drainage type pit, then at the bottom of the pit it is necessary to lay a layer of material that increases filtration. For this purpose, crushed stone is used, preferably granite, as it is less prone to erosion.

The main feature of the installation is that, despite the large volume of the barrel, it has a relatively small weight. Therefore, in the case of constructing a pit on soils prone to frost heaving, there is a high probability of squeezing the barrel to the surface. To avoid this, the container must be reliably strengthened, for which in some cases it will be necessary to build a simple foundation.

Constructing a drainage pit using metal or plastic containers can significantly reduce installation time.

That is why it is worth considering this option for collecting and disposing of wastewater with a small expected volume.

It is not enough to supply water to the house; after use it needs to be disposed of somewhere. It’s hard to carry it out with buckets, and it’s somehow pointless: the water comes into the house on its own, and then you have to carry it out on your own two feet. You need at least basic sewerage for your home or cottage. The option of simply removing the pipe from the house and draining the water onto the ground or a small hole will not suit everyone. It doesn't look very good, and bad smell from this puddle or hole is almost guaranteed. What to do?
So, we will need: old metal or plastic barrel, a certain amount of sewer pipes (at least 6 meters, preferably 110mm PVC), a tee, a branch, about 0.5 cubic meters of medium-fraction crushed stone, a shovel and several hours of our precious time.
We choose a place for our drainage well. Preferably, no closer than 5 meters from the house, no closer than 20-25 meters from the well or borehole and below them along the groundwater flow. We dig a hole with a diameter larger than the diameter of the barrel by at least 0.5 m (the diameter of a standard barrel is 0.6 m, height 0.9 m, volume 0.2 cubic meters) and a depth of about 1.5 m (deeper is better). We make holes in the walls of the barrel, if it is metal, then with a grinder, if it is plastic, then with a wood saw with a fine tooth. We make a hole for the incoming sewer pipe in the wall, near the bottom of the barrel. We fill the bottom of the hole with at least 20 cm of crushed stone and place the barrel upside down, oriented the hole for the pipe towards the house.
Now you need to dig a trench under the sewer pipe, bringing it to the place you need. The pipe must be laid with a slope of at least 3 mm per meter towards the barrel. It can be brought into the house either under the foundation or through a hole in it. There is no need to insulate the pipe; the water flowing through it will warm it up perfectly. Not far from the barrel, we place a tee with a small piece of pipe extending above the surface of the ground to circulate air inside the barrel and allow air to exit the sewer when it is filled from the house (so that the air from the barrel does not go into your house). We insert the pipe into the barrel through the hole made for this. We fill the gap between the barrel and the wall of the pit with crushed stone to the full height of the barrel. It is advisable to put some kind of non-rotting material at the bottom of the barrel (a piece of old slate is perfect). We fill both the trench and the hole with soil, compacting it thoroughly. We make a hole in the floor or wall of the house, finally introducing the sewer into the house. Further at your discretion. On a piece of pipe sticking out of the ground not far from a buried barrel, you can put a plastic mushroom, which is difficult, but can be found in stores.
And now the nuances.
This is an exclusively drainage sewer system for the home; it cannot cope with fecal waste, it cannot be cleaned or maintained in any way, and it is not intended for this. This sewer can be used for drains from the kitchen or bathhouse. Drainage wells from a septic tank have the same device.
The microclimate for bacteria that process wastewater depends on the depth of the pit. Ideally, the depth of the pit should be: depth of soil freezing + height of the barrel + height of the crushed stone cushion (for the Leningrad region: 1.2 m + 0.9 m + 0.2 m = 2.3 m). But digging so deep is difficult and not necessary. The effluent also warms the barrel.

If the soil at the site where the sewage system is installed is clayey, and the water leaves the barrel slowly, then the sewage system for your home can be slightly improved. To do this, you need to lay another sewer pipe, or better yet, a drainage pipe. This pipe can discharge water to drainage ditch on the border of the site, or may not lead anywhere, ending in a dead end. The purpose of this pipe is to divert excess water from the barrel, thus increasing the area of ​​water absorption into the soil (irrigation area). The pipe is laid in a trench on a crushed stone bed and is also covered with crushed stone and then with soil. The depth of the trench is greater than that of the supply pipe, and the slope is directed away from the barrel. Naturally, the sewer pipe will have to be damaged by a number of holes in the lower part to improve water flow, making it like a drainage pipe. This is not required if the pipe is placed in a drainage ditch.

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1. To be honest, I’m a little surprised that someone’s sewer system can freeze. Sewer pipes, in principle, cannot freeze, there...

Reviews (38) on “The simplest drainage system for a summer residence.”

Thank you for the useful article and adequate answers. I’ll start doing it tomorrow. I hope the pipe in our Transbaikalia will not freeze. Of course, I agree with you that a significant inclination needs to be done. By the way, I don’t understand whether the pipe will be enough for 50 or is it necessary for 100?

1. Depends on the distance and characteristics of the problem being solved. It is better to make 110th PVC, it is more reliable, although more expensive. At distances of up to 5 (five) meters, you can make 50 (fifty dollars), but, preferably, also PVC (not always available in stores) - as it is more durable and frost-resistant. This is, after all, an external sewage system, not an internal one.

1. What can happen to the 50th pipe? Silt up, get greasy, get soapy? Or will it clog up tightly?
2. Red (I mean for external wiring) or will it be gray (for internal wiring), since it will only be used in the summer? The store said that it is better to look for black (Soviet) - LDPE - polyethylene high pressure. What do you say?
3. My plot has a slope. Along the fence just downhill. I realized that it was better to dig it in.
4. Soil - loam. Where are they usually sent? rainwater from the roof? To another hole?

1. Answers, Vladimir.
   1. And not only that, Vladimir, especially in loams, even on the surface. For example, it can be bent by swelling of the soil so that the slope in some area is broken. The consequences are the same, it will clog in general... If it doesn’t break.
   This also happens with a 110-pipe, but much less often, of course, if the basic installation rules are followed.
   2. It definitely won’t work for “internal wiring.” You need PVC for external sewerage. For internal sewerage PP is usually used. You won’t dig it up for the winter...
   A “black pipe” is usually a HDPE pipe, not a LDPE pipe (I haven’t heard anything about LDPE pipes until now, maybe I don’t have enough experience). In principle, you can do it if you find it, but problems may arise with connecting pipes to bends (turns) and exiting the house. If you are not a “specialist”, then it is better not to experiment.
   4. Rainwater is usually directed into the drainage system around the house, which discharges it into a drainage ditch. Other pipes are used there - “drainage”, corrugated plastic pipes with perforation and geofabric protection.
   In loamy soil for house drainage it is necessary to make at least a small irrigation field (small drainage system just for this purpose). Because loamy soils do not absorb water well. On the other hand, if you are “on the go,” then the usual crushed stone sprinkling around the barrel (simplified drainage system) should be enough for a long time.

   Of course, you can put rainwater drains into this sewer system, but... Then there will be a high probability of damage to pipes by autumn and spring waters during “zero crossings”, because you do not control the volume and composition (maybe with ice) of these waters. That's why they do it drainage pipes perforated, i.e. “leaky” so that the water can drain away on its own. And if you install drainage pipes instead of sewer pipes, then these holes will quickly become clogged with house drains (“silt and get dirty”) and will not work. This is not to mention the possible unpleasant odors along the entire 20 meters of the pipe. So better sewerage separately, and rainwater drainage separately.

Thanks for answers. I will think.
And the last question:
It is impossible for me to go outside through the basement (floor slabs and 60-cm concrete blocks on the foundation).
I'll just poke holes in the side of the frame and then proceed with external wiring. Accordingly, I don’t want to make holes at 110. I will go out 50. 110 PVC will go on the ground.
How to connect the exit through the log house and PVC-110 external wall Houses? This is three meters in a straight line and all five with turns.

1. I didn’t quite understand the question, Vladimir. Inside the house you use fifty dollars for the interior, i.e. PP pipe. You let it out into the street through the wall of the log house, just carefully “seal” the gaps, there should be no drafts. And then move on to the 110th PVC, and you are driving it. From the exit of the log house to the 110th PVC you can use the same fifty dollars, only not far. For example, lower it with turns down to the foundation (it’s hard to say, without imagining the possible route), then an oblique tee with a revision, just in case, into which to insert an eccentric transition from fifty dollars to a hundred. And the 110th went.
   In principle, it is permissible to install a fifty-kopeck piece on the street “in plain sight” (if I understand correctly, this is the problem), but it is advisable that it is also a PVC pipe, otherwise there may be the same problems as “under the fence”. Yes, and it needs to be fastened well and carefully, leaving gaps for thermal expansion. Fifty dollars of PVC is sold, but not everywhere, you'll have to look for it.
   AND general advice, just in case you are a fireman, avoid right angles. If necessary, make them prefabricated, for example, 45 plus 45, with inserts between them. Right angles get clogged well, but are difficult to clean.

Yes, you understood everything correctly. It’s just that not a single salesperson in stores (I visited about five) has come across PVC-fifty. I will search further. From the exit from the log house to the location of pipe 110, I need to walk about five fifty meters along the wall (from below there is an entrance to the garage). We need to find PVC.
But the old Soviet black pipes that were previously laid in apartments (50) are not PVC by any chance? They were still standing cisterns suspended above your head

1. No, Vladimir, “old Soviet black pipes” are polypropylene, very rarely polyethylene low pressure, the dye was just different. Look in specialized stores, at construction bases, where they sell professional 4- and 6-meter sewer pipes, without sockets. I'll tell you how to connect them, it's not difficult. There are tips for everything on the Internet. Look in the store at the address: Ufa, Oktyabrya Avenue, 97, “All Instruments” store. They promise three-meter 50 mm PVC for 202 rubles, however, for electricians. As a last resort, you can install internal 50 mm PP pipes, you just need to watch them. Check in the spring.

Thanks for the advice!
I know this store and have been there. This is an online store. All goods must be ordered and received upon arrival of the goods. I'll definitely check their website.
Just a passing question: will I finally find fifty dollars? PVC pipes. But all sorts of turns and other things also need PVC? This is probably completely unrealistic. I'll look on the Internet and on their website.
Thank you again for your attention.

1. Hello again, Vladimir.
   I ask your forgiveness. Having “scoured” the Internet in search of fifty dollars worth of PVC, I actually discovered that these pipes are only available in St. Petersburg and Moscow, and not always of local production. I live almost in St. Petersburg. Therefore, well, buy fifty dollars of PP, just look not for the standard cheap 1.8 mm PP, but for 2.0 or 2.2 mm, at least some margin of safety. In principle, fifty rubles of PP are installed in non-critical sections of the sewer system, without thinking about the consequences. You will just have to keep an eye on this area, as I already wrote, mainly in the spring, at the opening of the dacha season.
   The PVC I found in Ufa is unlikely to be suitable, they are for protection electrical wires. Their wall thickness is only 1.5 mm. Why the search engine gave them to me as a sewer(!) is a mystery to me. So make fifty dollars of PP from the house to the fence. This is not possible, but if you really need it, then...

Thank you for this article for the advice. I just had a situation where I bought myself a multistage pump. A plumber arrived and installed it. Everything worked like clockwork and there was no problem. When I was tired the next day and looked into the mine, there was water there and the water almost flooded the pump. But if I had a water drain, this would not have happened. You will need to redo your mine.

The benefits of civilization have led today to the fact that owners of private houses are forced to reconsider their views on the structure autonomous sewerage. If the earliest profitable option Since the cesspools were wells without a bottom, which did not even have to be pumped out, in the current conditions one can forget about such an installation. It is unlikely that there will be owners who use less than one cubic meter of water per day (this is the maximum volume of wastewater according to SNIP for septic tanks without a bottom), which means it is necessary to think about how to make the sewage system airtight. The simplest option is a cesspool made from a barrel.

What is such a system?

A sealed cesspool collects all the wastewater, which is then pumped out by a sewer truck.

The entire sewer system consists of:

• pipe systems in the house through which wastewater is discharged;
• a sealed barrel in which wastewater accumulates.

When the container is full, they call a cesspool truck and use it to pump out the contents of the cesspool.

What points should be considered during construction?

• The location of the barrel, according to SNIP, must be no less than 5 m away from the house, and no less than 2 m from the fence.
• The depth of the hole under the container should not exceed three meters, because the hose of the sewer machine is seven meters long. Four meters will be on the surface and only three will sink into the barrel. A deeper placement will lead to the fact that the vacuum cleaner will be able to pump out only the upper part of the drains, because the hose simply will not reach the bottom.
• Before plunging the barrel into the hole, you need to turn it around so that the hatch is next to the path or entrance to the site. In a word, provide the sewer truck with free access to the hatch.

If the hatch closes the barrel too tightly, it is necessary to provide a ventilation pipe with a diameter of 100 mm. They take it out about half a meter above ground level. This precaution is necessary to remove methane that appears during the decomposition reaction of sewage. In completely sealed conditions, the gas may explode.

When installing, place the barrel with a slight slope towards the hatch to make it easier to pump out sewage

• It is better to select a barrel designed for a large volume of wastewater. Light weight containers run the risk of being pushed out by soil, especially heaving soil. This kind of trouble can only be avoided by placing the barrel on a hard surface (concrete pad) and securing it carefully.

Where can I find a suitable barrel?

The easiest option is to buy a ready-made one made of plastic.

It already contains all the necessary elements for a septic tank: a hatch, a ventilation hole, etc. In addition, the plastic is not subject to rotting or corrosion. When too high consumption water, it is recommended to install several barrels, connecting them together.

Ready plastic containers vary in cubic capacity, so finding the right size is easy

If funds do not allow you to “fork out” for a finished container, then you can get by with a 200-liter metal barrel. But be prepared that under the conditions of biological reactions, iron will quickly fail, and you will have to look for a new container. In addition, with active use of water, such a pit fills up instantly, and at least once a week you will have to pump it out.

The best option would be to find a ready-made container from a decommissioned vehicle. As a rule, barrels that were used on railways or in cars for transporting chemical liquids, gasoline, etc. have a wall thickness of 16 mm.

Such a cesspool can survive several generations of its owners.

Stages of installation of the structure

1. Dig a hole, the shape of which coincides with the shape of the container, and the size of the walls is 10-20 cm larger.
2. Compact the bottom and cover with a 20 cm layer of sand.
3. Sprinkle the sand with water and compact it.
4. If the soil is prone to heaving, pour a concrete pad.
5. Lower the barrel so that the inlet pipe coincides with the location of the sewer pipe.
6. Fill the gaps between the pit and the walls of the barrel with sand (not earth!), compacting each layer.
7. If the container is made of plastic, then in order to avoid pressing the walls inward, it is better to first fill the barrel with water and then fill it with sand.
8. Connect the sewer pipe and the inlet pipe from the barrel with a double-sided coupling.
9. Cover the top of the cesspool with earth, leaving only the ventilation pipe and hatch.

It is more difficult to make a cesspool from several barrels, but in the end it will be more economical, since it does not require frequent pumping.

To ensure that visiting your bathhouse brings you nothing but pleasure, make sure that the drainage pit for the bathhouse is arranged correctly. It will primarily perform sewerage functions, that is, drain wastewater from the structure. Installing water supply to the bathhouse is not a difficult task: it is enough to lay metal-plastic pipes from electric water heater to the place of delivery hot water, and no specific skills are required for this. As for waste disposal, it is important to comply with everything building codes. More details about everything in the article.

How to lay a drain pipe

According to the rules, the drain pipe must be laid during the construction of the foundation. It is located in its lower part under the drainage hole.

The drainage hole in the bathhouse is dug 3 meters from the foundation. Gasket features drain pipe:

1. The edges of the pit are protected from collapse by formwork and concreting or.
2. The bottom of the drainage pit is left free to ensure unhindered absorption of water into the soil, and the top is equipped with a reliable ceiling with a hole for the drainage pipe.

1. Joints and bends when passing the pipe are not allowed, otherwise blockages may occur.
2. After installing the drain pipe and water supply, the floor in the bathhouse is poured with concrete. In this case, you need to maintain the slope of the floor towards the pipe.
3. The drain hole is closed with a special mesh, which will create additional protection from pipe blockages.
4. After completely dry cement, it is refined tiles, on top of which removable wooden gratings are laid. They will prevent discomfort and possible burns from contact with hot tiles. In addition, if necessary, the gratings can be easily removed for drying and antiseptic treatment, and in case of wear, for replacement.

Such a floor will not require insulation - a concrete floor poured according to all the rules and good quality tiles laid on it quickly heat up when heating the bathhouse and do not allow cold air from outside.

Pro tip: If the slope when laying the drain pipe in the bathhouse towards the cesspool is sufficient, insulation of the pipe is also not required.

Options for installing a drain pit for a bathhouse

Drain pit made from a metal barrel

The design of such a drainage pit is similar to a building. A metal barrel with a capacity of 200 liters can be used as a draining vessel. The process of creating a design is quite simple:

1. Drainage holes are cut on the side surface of the container using a grinder. The holes are placed in a checkerboard pattern using a pitch of 15-20 cm.

1. A pipe is installed in the bottom of the barrel, connected by a coupling to sewer pipe. Careful sealing is carried out at the junction silicone sealant. Sealing must be both external and internal.
2. The entire surface of the barrel is wrapped in geotextile - non-woven material, consisting of polyester fibers and having protective properties. It will drain the wastewater without allowing large elements to enter the drain barrel.
3. The geotextile is firmly secured to the barrel using twine or adhesive tape. They wrap it around the sides and bottom of the container so that there is an opening for the pipe. The top of the barrel is covered with a separate piece of geotextile, which is tightly fixed.

1. The drain hole is dug in close proximity to the places where the water will drain (shower, washbasin, bidet, etc.). Its depth and width should be slightly more sizes barrels.
2. The bottom of the pit is covered with a layer of crushed stone or gravel 20-30 cm thick. A barrel is installed on the resulting cushion so that the pipe is at the top.

1. The voids in the pit are filled with gravel.
2. A sewer pipe is connected to the pipe.

The barrel cesspool is ready!

Two-chamber septic tank made of polyethylene barrels

Polyethylene barrels can also be used as septic tanks. The design of a two-chamber septic tank is a system of two barrels:

• the first reception room, which serves to settle solid particles from wastewater;
• the second will additionally filter the water that has settled in the first barrel.

Water flows from the first barrel to the second through a specially equipped gap between the soil and the barrels, filled with a mixture of gravel and sand. This gap is a biological filter, passing through which purified water enters the ground. Top part The septic tank is closed with a lid, three times impregnated with a bioprotective composition.

A two-chamber septic tank involves a bathhouse consisting of a steam room and a shower room in the foundation, connected by a tee to a collector, which, in turn, is supplied to the septic tank. A hatch is installed in the dressing room for access to the pipes for the purpose of repair and inspection. If all of the above conditions are met, the sewage system will work flawlessly and properly.

Pro tip:

The advantage of using polymer barrels in the construction of a two-chamber septic tank is their resistance to rotting, destruction by corrosion and fungus. Therefore, by using them, you ensure a long service life treatment plant without replacement or repair.

Underground filtration fields

To drain waste water underground filtration fields can be used from the bathhouse. With their help, wastewater is purified and distributed in the soil through a system of irrigation pipelines over the entire area summer cottage. The design consists of a septic tank equipped with a dosing device, a drainage pipe and a distribution well.

The water flows through the pipe into a network of irrigation canals - into drainage pipes buried in the ground. The depth of laying pipes is from 0.8 to 1.5 meters, but they should not be located at a distance of less than 1 meter from the groundwater level. The disadvantages of underground filtration fields include complexity and labor-intensive installation, as well as high cost.

Now, having familiarized yourself with the three organization options sewer outlet drains from the bathhouse, you can choose the most suitable one for your specific situation, based on material capabilities, as well as the frequency of use of the premises.