Manual electric saw- a useful and convenient thing, but you won’t be able to work with it for a long time, as you need to make an effort. If you need to cut a whole tree or constantly have to work with large volumes, then for this purpose a circular saw is made from circular saw with your own hands.

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Advantages and features of the tool

A circular saw has its advantages: it allows you to make an even cut, increases installation speed, provides ease of use, saves electricity. If you replace the disk, you can overcome soft metal. To make a full-fledged tool for work, you need to install it on a table and provide access from all sides.

In this case, the following conditions must be observed:

• the table must be well reinforced, for which its legs are sometimes poured with concrete or screwed with bolts;
• the hand saw is secured with iron brackets to the tabletop to ensure safety during operation;
• grounding is required.

Inconvenience at work represents large width table. Optimal size should not exceed 60 - 70 cm so that it is convenient to hold the block (not on outstretched arms).

If the working surface is not static, the quality of the cut will deteriorate, so fastening is necessary. The wire can be secured with staples in the floor to prevent accidental tripping while working.

As an option, make an additional outlet under the tabletop.

First you need to prepare a drawing indicating the dimensions. It's almost a drawing, but simplified. On paper you need to indicate the size of the gap for the disk - in width and length, where it should be in relation to the edges of the table. You can immediately imagine your work using such a device.

Necessary equipment

Additional tools you will need:

• for fastenings;
• pencil or marker for markings;
• roulette;
• sandpaper.

During operation it may you will need a router.

To make a table you need to prepare:

• 2 guide rails;
• bolts;
• sheet size 60/120 cm;
• table blank with legs (if any).

The bed can be made independently from ordinary wooden blanks, fastened together with slats, or a ready-made sawing table, iron or wood, can be used.

Prices for chipboard

Workflow Description

How to make a guide for a circular saw. A guide ruler attached to the workbench will help make the cut even.

The essence of the device is to prevent the sawing material from moving during operation.

The easiest option is to attach two profiles, one to the saw base, the other to the sawing table.

To do this, you need to select two pieces of pipe, you can use aluminum square profile different sizes. The pipes must be cut vertically with a grinder. There should be a design according to like rails when one part fits into another.

Next, you need to measure the piece along the length of the table. Pre-cut a recess and place the profile in it, securing it with bolts from the bottom side. A smaller profile is cut to the length of the sole and bolted. The edges of the metal should be sanded so that they do not interfere with smooth movement. All that remains is to combine both profiles and test the device.

How to make a workbench

You can make a table for a circular saw with your own hands from MDF board, chipboard, thick plywood, wood, metal. Plastic material doesn't fit.

Stages of work:

1. Measure the required length and width from a sheet of material.
2. Trim with a grinder and sharpen the edges.
3. Bolt the tabletop onto the table legs; you can use wood glue to be sure.
4. Level the top using a level, secure it to the floor with metal brackets or fill it with concrete.

Important! The tabletop is installed on the legs after securing the saw.

A circular saw blade is attached from below to the table using wooden slats.

MDF prices

Description of works:

1. Turn the tabletop over, mark with a marker and cut a hole for the disk.
2. Cutting down upper layer according to the shape of the sole to a depth of 0.7 mm.
3. Take two bars and secure the sole parallel to the length of the table with self-tapping screws.
4. Secure the sole perpendicular to the table with two more slats.

Mounting the circular saw on the workbench is ready. If planned Full time job, then you can equip the table with an additional support. To do this, you need an even beam along the length of the tabletop. It must be installed parallel to the saw blade, preferably in a recess, and secured with bolts. It is important to align the part well so that it is strictly parallel - the quality of the cut will depend on this, especially if you need to make furniture.

Shaft manufacturing

How to make a shaft for a circular saw with your own hands.

If a circular saw is assembled by hand in parts, the engine is taken from washing machine, the discs are purchased separately or removed from a non-working angle grinder, then you will have to think about how to grind the shaft.

This important detail It is unsafe to make from old pipes, since the disk itself will be attached to the shaft.

DIY circular saw shaft difficult to do. Here you need a professional turner, preferably not a novice. First you should select a special 45 grade of steel. The material is wear-resistant and elastic, specially designed for the manufacture of shafts, cylinders, and gears.

For turning on a lathe, a double-sided fastening is used. The part is first processed with a regular cutter to give required diameter. Next, all burrs are removed with a finishing cutter. A small allowance is left for final sanding with sandpaper to a mirror finish.

Grooves on the shaft are performed with a groove cutter, as indicated in the drawings. While working, you can remove the part and try on components that will later be mounted.

Mounts can be installed on the shaft for:

• various cutters that can be useful when turning figured wood products;
• regular circular paper;
• planer knives.

A homemade circular saw with your own hands is equipped with a motor from an old washing machine. It is necessary to connect a starting device corresponding to the engine power.

When installing electrical must be observed safety regulations:

1. Provide thermal protection in case of increased voltage.
2. The electrical panel must be installed on a material that does not conduct current.
3. If a metal frame is installed, the electrical wiring should be well insulated.
4. If homemade machine with the circular saw located outdoors, the electrical unit must be protected from water.

If it is difficult to do the electrics for a circular saw with your own hands, then it is better to turn to a professional so that the equipment works for a long time and without breakdowns.

Miniature model

To work with plexiglass, plastic, laminate, a mini-circular can be useful - a small structure similar to a stool with disk in the center u.

This model is designed for thin sheets material and will not withstand heavy loads.

You can use a grinder by attaching it to the bottom using the method described above.

For support, you can attach a beam 2 cm high.

The legs do not need to be strengthened because the device will be portable.

Note! The device copes well with thin, soft materials, but wood is difficult to handle; to work with it, you need to increase the motor power.

The motor power on the microcircular is small - up to 40 W. The disk can be taken from a hand saw, but it is quite possible to use a prefabricated structure, where a threaded rod - a construction pin - acts as a shaft. The disk is secured with a nut screwed onto the thread.

Other devices

Making various accessories for a hand-held circular saw with your own hands is as easy as shelling pears. One of them is a regular block, which is inserted into the stop included in the kit. The standard stop does not allow sawing wider parts, as it is designed for a certain width, which is different for each model. To be able to increase the gap, you need to insert a stop between the wall wooden part necessary width and push in her in the sole.

You can make a device for cutting grooves, which can be useful in making furniture.

A circular saw from a hand-held circular saw can be adapted for cutting at an angle. Both additional parts and the ability to secure the disk itself at the desired angle are used.

A simple device for trimming with a hand-held circular saw. It is possible to saw at a given angle.

The “wedge” auxiliary part is suitable for the production of round wood blanks for decorative purposes.

End sawing is used in construction for finishing walls with wood, which are subsequently varnished, leaving the transverse structure of the wood visible.

To avoid spending extra money on various devices for small jobs, you can try to think through a solution to the problem yourself and create a working tool from available materials.

Old hand saws, possibly with a non-working motor, are suitable for arranging a circular saw. Construct workplace possible according to any scheme. By selecting parts according to power, it is possible to saw materials of various widths and densities. With the help of additional devices, you can organize a carpentry workshop and perform various operations without extra costs.

Video: making a circular saw from a circular saw

If a person lives in a private house or has country garden plot, then the presence of a stationary circular saw in the arsenal of a home craftsman is not only desirable, but sometimes necessary. Unfortunately, the cost of an industrially manufactured sample of such a saw does not correspond to the frequency of its home use, and for some Russians it is simply unaffordable. At the same time, making a “circular” with your own hands is quite simple, using a drive for this sewing machine or a regular electric drill. However, the quality of work performed and the range of operations performed largely depend on the bed of the circular saw.

Bed design

Circular saw stand

The simplest circular saw frame, the drive power of which does not exceed 0.8...12 kilowatts, is quite easy to make with your own hands from thick plywood and wooden blocks. For the drive, you can use an electric drill “BOSCH GSB 19-2” (power 0.85 kilowatts) or “DWT SBM-1050” (power 1.05 kilowatts), which is attached to under the stove using a special bracket. The length of the bed will depend on the length of the material being cut. For the table, you must purchase bakelite plywood with a thickness of at least 50.0 millimeters. Of course for professional work wooden bed will not work, but in order to loosen the boards, quickly saw the bars, like this homemade design quite enough.

In general, the bed will consist of a base and a tabletop (desktop). Of course, when manually making a circular saw yourself, you must strive to simplify the design as much as possible. The design of the work table will primarily be determined by the design of the cutting blade mounting unit. Homemade circular devices use either a circular disk mounted directly in the chuck of an electric drill, or (more preferably) a two-support shaft driven into rotation by an electric motor through a belt drive.

Making a countertop

At the first stage of manufacturing the frame with wooden table top With your own hands, the existing sheet of plywood is placed in accordance with the existing sketch or drawing. In order to reduce the number of cuts, markings are carried out from the edges of the sheet. The tool used is a fine-toothed hacksaw or a jigsaw.

A slot for the disk is marked on the underside of the sawn piece. The cut can be made with a finger cutter, securing it with your own hands in the chuck of an electric drill. In order to maintain the straightness of the cut edges, a simple homemade copier made from two metal corners is attached to the tabletop with clamps. Further work depends on the mechanism for attaching the circular saw blade. Most simply it manually installed on two bearing supports, and driven through a belt drive from a separate electric motor or from an electric drill.

To add additional rigidity to the tabletop, it is advisable to attach stiffening ribs along its edges, which can be made from bars or aluminum corners. The stiffeners are fastened to the table using self-tapping screws. To give greater strength to the entire structure, an additional layer of epoxy glue can be applied to the joint, which will fix the block to the tabletop along the entire plane of the joint. The distance from the edge of the tabletop to the block should be 2.0...4.0 centimeters.

After this, in accordance with the selected drive design, the circular disk support assembly is attached. For reliable fastening, it is better to fix the bearing housings to the frame using a screw, threaded connection. In this case, the countersunk screw heads are located on the upper plane of the tabletop and should not protrude above its plane. The upper working surface of the desktop should be coated with wear-resistant varnish and polished.

For greater safety when working with homemade device It is advisable to install a swinging protective casing over the cutting edge of the disk.

Base design

For safe work For a homemade circular saw, the table must be installed on a sufficiently rigid and durable base. To make it manually, the master’s imagination is given complete freedom. The base can be made in the form of a wooden base, but it is better to weld it from a corner (such as an aquarium frame) in accordance with the size of the tabletop.

Some manufacturing nuances

The main parameter that determines the design of a homemade “circular saw” is the thickness of the boards being cut. For household work with your own hands, it is usually not necessary to saw wood thicker than 15.0 ... 20.0 millimeters. To change the depth of the cut, you can use and/or make a special mechanism for lifting the disk, but this will significantly complicate the design of the homemade product.

When choosing a drive motor, the rotation speed of its shaft should be taken into account. Using a belt drive, you can change the speed with your own hands. If you intend to use an electric drill as a drive, then preference should be given to models with variable chuck rotation speed, then using such a hand-made circular saw will be a pleasure.

Conclusion

Despite the primitiveness of the described design, it will significantly facilitate DIY homework, from carpentry operations with boards to cross-cutting thick branches cut from garden trees.

Review and comparison of factory models

Einhell RT-TS 920 Hitachi C10RD Jet JBTS-10 Metabo TKHS 315

stanokgid.ru

How to make a machine from a circular saw with your own hands?

• Wooden machine from a circular saw
• Making a metal frame: instructions
• Making a stationary circular

An excellent tool for sawing various lumber at home is a hand-held circular saw. This power tool can cut lumber of various sections at any angle. This tool perfectly cuts sheets of plywood, hardboard or chipboard.

Diagram of a circular saw machine.

However, the technical capabilities of such a tool can be significantly expanded, which is often necessary when performing repair work, if you make a stationary machine from a circular saw with your own hands.

It is not difficult to carry out such a transformation, and anyone who needs it can make a machine from a circular saw. To do this, you simply need to fix it on the prepared surface in a certain position. In the simplest version, durable construction trestles can be used as an installation site. For long-term use of a circular saw machine, it is better to make a durable, welded metal frame.

To do this wooden base, required:

• sheet of plywood 8-10 mm thick;
• wooden blocks measuring 40x50 mm;
• universal glue;
• self-tapping screws and bolts with M8 nuts.

Diagram of a homemade cutting device.

A sheet measuring approximately 100x60 cm is cut out of plywood (maybe another). Along the edges of the plywood sheet (along its perimeter), bars are attached using glue and self-tapping screws. Then with inside The tool body is attached to the sheet, and the places where it is attached to it are marked, as well as the groove for the cutting disc. After that, a groove for the passage of the disk is cut out with a jigsaw (or a router), and holes are drilled for attaching the body. The legs are attached to the side bars using bolts. The height of the circular saw machine is selected from 80 to 90 cm. The body is attached to a previously prepared place on its inner side. The bolts for its fastening must be made flush (not protrude on the surface). The lid must be varnished or painted.

To ensure that the material is cut strictly to size, a guide block is installed parallel to the cutting disc. The block can be attached to the table surface with clamps. The wooden circular saw machine is ready for use.

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A circular saw machine made of metal is much stiffer and stronger than wood and has a longer service life. To make such a bed, you will need the following material and tools:

• a sheet of metal (preferably steel) measuring approximately 1000x500 mm and a thickness of 3 to 5 mm;
• metal corner approximately 45x45 mm;
• M8 bolts and nuts;
• welding machine;
• electric drill;
• Bulgarian;
• clamps.

First of all, prepare a table for the machine from a circular saw. To do this around the perimeter metal sheet a metal profile is welded. In order for it to fit tightly to the sheet, it must be pressed to the surface with clamps. Then on back side The sheet outlines the attachment points for the housing and the groove for the saw blade. Using an electric drill, holes with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled to mount the housing.

Assembly diagram for a homemade sawmill.

WITH front side The holes on the table are countersunk to install fasteners in a countersunk position.

Using a grinder and a drill, a groove for the disk is cut in the table. To cut the groove carefully, you need to drill holes with a diameter of approximately 10 mm along the edges of the intended groove and cut a groove between these holes with a grinder. The tool body is installed and secured to the prepared place.

Four pieces approximately 800 to 900 mm long are cut from the corner for the table legs. Then the legs are welded to the corners of the table. To give greater rigidity, a corner is welded between the legs at a distance of approximately 100 mm from the floor surface.

To ensure high-quality cutting of the material, it is necessary to install a guide bar parallel to the disk. It is best to make it from a corner. To do this, an even corner is cut along the length of the table, then two guides are welded to it, which should fix the movement of the bar parallel to the cutting disk. You can fasten the bar to the table with clamps or using a welded plate with bolts.

After completing the welding work, the welding seams are cleaned, the surfaces are degreased and covered with anti-corrosion paint. The circular saw machine is ready for use.

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If you don’t have a circular saw, and you need a more powerful machine for the job, you can make a small stationary machine. Such a machine, manufactured at a factory, is quite expensive, but a machine made by yourself will be several times cheaper. In order to make such a unit, we need the following material and tools:

Assembly of the front part of the machine.

• steel sheet thickness from 3 to 5 mm, size approximately 1200x700 mm;
• metal corner 50x50 mm;
• asynchronous motor 220 V, 2.2 kW, 2850 rpm. (or another, at the request of the performer);
• pulley for engine;
• shaft with bearings and pulley;
• V-belt;
• saw blade:
• M10 bolts;
• welding machine;
• Bulgarian;
• electric drill;
• clamps.

First of all, you need to purchase a shaft with bearings and a mount for the cutting disc. You can buy it in the store building materials or order and make it in workshops (they often have finished goods and cheaper than in the store).

A frame is welded from a corner to fit the size of the prepared sheet. Then it is temporarily installed on it. After that, the installation locations of the shaft and electric motor are marked. Then two corners are welded into the frame with their flat surfaces facing up to secure the shaft and motor. The prepared frame is attached to the sheet with clamps and welded. A groove for the disk is cut into the sheet. In prepared areas, holes with a diameter of 10 mm are drilled to mount the shaft and motor. In the places where the motor is mounted, grooves are cut in the corners according to the size of the holes (for tensioning the V-belt).

Four corners are cut for the machine legs. The prepared legs are welded in the corners of the table frame. The structure is cleaned of rust, dirt and painted with metal paint. The shaft and motor are bolted to the back of the table, and a V-belt is installed. The belt is tensioned by moving the motor along the grooves, and then the mounting bolts are tightened tightly. The engine starting device is attached to the frame at the end. To ensure high-quality cutting, a guide bar is installed parallel to the disk, which can be attached to the table surface with clamps or bolts into pre-prepared holes. The unit is ready for use.

By making a machine from a circular saw, you can greatly facilitate the work of sawing lumber.

By building such a unit correctly with your own hands, you can save significant cash.

masterbrusa.ru

DIY table for a circular saw

A circular saw is used to cut wood and plastic. Its cutting base is a flat metal disk with a serrated outer edge. When choosing such a tool, everyone decides for themselves what type they need: tabletop, manual, stationary. Many people prefer manual option. However, in some situations it is necessary to secure the saw. In this case, you can make a table for a circular saw with your own hands, having the opportunity to secure the tool if necessary.

Preparation of tools and materials

Having decided to make a table for a hand-held circular saw yourself, you need to make sure that you have all the materials necessary for the work:

• laminated plywood (9 or 11 mm), size 800 mm by 800 mm;
• 16 mm laminated chipboard or other sheet material suitable for making the body, sheet size 400 by 784 mm - 4 pieces;
• bars 40 by 40 mm (length depends on installation method);
• self-tapping screws;
• bolts.

Any hand-held circular saw will work for this table. It must be remembered that when attached to a table, the cutting depth decreases by 10–20 mm. So saws with small blades are not suitable for such a table.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling a table for a circular saw

1. Manufacturing of the body. Sheet material for the body is cut to size: 400 mm by 800 mm. The parts are fastened using self-tapping screws and bars. It is better to carry out the assembly by first drilling out the external parts of the box. The result is a rectangular box without a bottom or lid. Upper part the bars are subsequently used to secure the plywood sheet.

2. Preparing and securing the plywood top. Hole slot. First, a piece 800 mm by 80 mm is cut out of a sheet of plywood. Next, measurements are taken of the support shoe of the saw that will be mounted on the table top. Markings are made on the back side of the plywood. 2 central axles will be required. Without them, it is impossible to make accurate markings. Then marks are applied to the plywood corresponding to the dimensions of the support shoe. Then they take the same measurements as the circular saw: the diameter of the lower protective casing, its thickness, maximum distance from the edges of the support shoe. In accordance with the obtained dimensions, place marks and cut out a rectangular hole using a jigsaw.

3. Attaching the saw to the plywood table top. First, 4 holes are made in the shoe. Diameter – 10 mm. Next, install the tool so that the working part fits into the cut hole. When the saw is level, you need to mark the location of the holes. Marks are made in the central part. In order for the tool to stand securely, you will need plowshare bolts with a countersunk conical head (M8) for fastening. To install them, you will have to take care of the high-quality recess of the cap; it can protrude by a maximum of 1 mm when not tightened.

Plywood is drilled with outside, the diameter of the resulting holes should be 8 mm, and then a countersink should be made for the head. When the holes are ready, the saw itself is installed on the cutting table for the circular saw, the bolts are tightened from the inside using nuts with plastic locks or spring washers.

4. Fastening the tabletop to the body. Start button. First, holes are made at a distance of 30 mm in the corners of the plywood table top. Then a hole is drilled in the central part of the bars. The parts are connected using an M8 18 mm steel fitting. The usual “Start-Start” button is installed on the side. An electrical network is laid inside the case, and the button on the instrument itself is pressed.

5. Manufacturing of a thrust beam. A simple table for a circular saw will become much more convenient if you equip it with a stop beam. The drawings contain all the necessary dimensions. The beam can be made from plywood and secured using full extension furniture rails. The resulting beam should slide above the surface at an angle of 90° to the cutting plane with a slight gap.

6. Stop for longitudinal cuts. It is made from aluminum cornice. 150 mm from the edges, first drill holes for the bolts, and then draw 2 lines from the place where the bolts are attached to the center line. At the intersection and further towards the bolts, 12 mm holes are made at a distance of 30 mm. The bolts from below are tightened with nuts. And along the drawn lines they make slits in the tonic; their width can be seen in the photo.

Information on how to make a table for a circular saw can be seen in the video. This will help you quickly and easily improve the equipment of your workshop.

Video of making a circular table with your own hands

Homemade circular saw with your own hands (circular saw, sawing table)
Circular table made from a hand-held circular saw. Option 2.

mainavi.ru

How to make a homemade table for a circular table with your own hands according to drawings

A hand-held circular saw is a powerful tool with high performance. One of the main advantages of a circular saw - maneuverability - becomes a disadvantage when it is necessary to cut large volumes of wood. To make the process easier, you can easily assemble your circular saw table yourself.

Table structure

small tabletop stand for circular saw

The design of a table for a hand-held circular saw is so simple that most craftsmen make it without preliminary drawings and diagrams. This is a sturdy workbench that is made of wood and plywood. The most reliable table bases are made of metal. They are the heaviest and require welding skills. Therefore, stands are often made from waste lumber. A circular saw is attached under the tabletop, the blade protrudes above it through a specially made slot. The lumber is advanced along the tabletop and cut with a rotating disk. For convenience and precision of work, the table is equipped with additional devices: an angular and longitudinal stop.

The tabletop “eats” part of the working surface of the disk, the depth of cut will decrease by the thickness of the tabletop. Therefore, it is advisable to select a circular saw with a maximum disk diameter, and a table top that is thin but hard.

If you haven’t purchased a saw yet, choose models with high power (from 1200 W). They can handle cutting large volumes of wood. Holes will be drilled in the sole for mounting; the cast base may crack. Therefore, it is advisable to choose a tool with a stamped sole.

Selection of materials

mounting a circular saw under a tabletop

To make a good stand for a hand-held circular saw, you should remember your carpentry skills, be patient and have a small amount of materials:

• laminated plywood 15 - 20 mm;
• timber 50 x 50;
• board;
• switch;
• external socket;
• a piece of electrical cable;
• PVA glue;
• wood varnish (if the plywood is not laminated);
• self-tapping screws

And tools:

• jigsaw;
• screwdriver;
• drill;
• ruler.

The size of the countertop will depend on the size of the workshop. At the same time, too small table It will be inconvenient to saw long sections. If the part fits entirely on the working surface, the cut is smoother and more accurate. The height of the legs is selected depending on the height of the master.

For a small workshop, a tabletop design with approximate dimensions of 50 x 50 x 25 cm is convenient.

Table manufacturing process

1. Cut a tabletop from a sheet of laminated plywood required size. The markings are applied to the lower plane using a metal ruler and pencil. We cut the plywood with a jigsaw, milling the edges if necessary. If the plywood is not laminated, sand the surface of the table.
2. We turn it over and make markings from the bottom for attaching a manual circular saw. To do this, remove the disc from the tool and place it with the sole in the required place. We make marks on the tabletop and on the sole for fasteners and a groove for the saw blade. Drill holes for the bolts. They will be screwed from above, through the tabletop and held in place with nuts from below. Therefore, we countersink the holes on the working surface side and grind the bolt heads so that they do not protrude.
3. If you plan to cut material for different angles, the slot for the saw wheel is made in the shape of an inverted trapezoid. For smooth sawing, a regular groove is made. Before cutting the slot and holes for fasteners, apply a saw, adjust the marks and only then cut.
4. Mark with a pencil the locations of the stiffeners. They are made from boards and installed from below, 8 - 9 cm from the edge of the tabletop. We will attach the table legs to the ribs. The ribs are fixed with self-tapping screws at intervals of 15 - 25 centimeters, and additionally glued with PVA. Self-tapping screws are screwed in from above, through the tabletop, and the heads are completely recessed. The ribs are fastened together with long self-tapping screws.
5. The legs of the table are made of a block or board; their length will be from 100 to 113 cm. Legs that diverge slightly downwards will give greater stability. They are fixed with large bolts, tightened from the outside, and secured from the inside with nuts. The timber ties will further strengthen the frame.
6. To adjust the height of the table, nuts are attached to the bottom into which M14 bolts are screwed.
7. Now you can fix the saw from below by inserting the disc into the prepared slot.
8. We attach an electrical outlet to the inside of the table and pass it through electrical wire and install the switch in convenient location(on the outer part of the stiffener). Power to the outlet will be supplied from the switch. We stretch a wire from it to the nearest power source in the workshop. Using a construction tie, we fix the ON-OFF button on the body of the circular saw in a recessed position.

Let's start making auxiliary stops. For the longitudinal stop you will need aluminum pipe square section No. 30 and two screws with wing nuts.

1. We saw off a piece of pipe along the length of the tabletop, and cut holes for screws 3 cm from the edge.
2. We cut out two clamps from pieces of plywood. The structure is ready.
3. For sawing across the table, we make a plywood sled. We align them with the edges of the table, press them and move them along the toothed circle. We cut a groove where the circle passes through the slide. Small parts can be placed directly inside the slide and sawed.

Dust removal is organized from under the table, but most of the dust flies from above, so it’s a good idea to supplement the device with an upper dust extractor.

Working with a circular saw is very dangerous, so it is important to protect your fingers. From a piece of board or furniture board cut out the pusher.

Additions to the design

This design can be supplemented with a riving knife, which will be removed. Put a disk guard on it, which cuts off the flow of chips flying directly at the carpenter.

Some craftsmen, when assembling a table according to unique drawings, completely remove the factory protective casing and replace the factory platform with a homemade one. If you do not plan to cut at an angle, you can remove all the devices for adjusting the tilt of the disk. The saw is fixed directly on the new base, which allows you to gain a few millimeters of cutting depth.

Without an internal casing, it is easier to remove the blade; the saw does not become so clogged with chips when working with damp boards. Disassembly requires extra time, but the engine resource is saved and overload is prevented.

The first video is about a stationary table for a circular saw, the second is about a small portable structure:

If a person lives in a private house or has a garden plot, then having a stationary circular saw in the arsenal of a home craftsman is not only desirable, but sometimes necessary. Unfortunately, the cost of an industrially manufactured sample of such a saw does not correspond to the frequency of its home use, and for some Russians it is simply unaffordable. At the same time, making a “circular” with your own hands is quite simple, using the drive of a sewing machine or a regular electric drill. However, the quality of work performed and the range of operations performed largely depend on the bed of the circular saw.

Bed design

The simplest circular saw frame, the drive power of which does not exceed 0.8...12 kilowatts, is quite easy to make with your own hands from thick plywood and wooden blocks. For the drive, you can use an electric drill “BOSCH GSB 19-2” (power 0.85 kilowatts) or “DWT SBM-1050” (power 1.05 kilowatts), which is attached to under the stove using a special bracket. The length of the bed will depend on the length of the material being cut. For the table, you must purchase bakelite plywood with a thickness of at least 50.0 millimeters. Of course, a wooden bed is not suitable for professional work, but in order to unravel boards and quickly saw through bars, such a homemade design is quite sufficient.

In general, the bed will consist of a base and a tabletop (desktop). Of course, when manually making a circular saw yourself, you must strive to simplify the design as much as possible. The design of the work table will primarily be determined by the design of the cutting blade mounting unit. Homemade circular devices use either a circular disk mounted directly in the chuck of an electric drill, or (more preferably) a two-support shaft driven into rotation by an electric motor through a belt drive.

Making a countertop

At the first stage of making a frame with a wooden tabletop with your own hands, the existing sheet of plywood is placed in accordance with the existing sketch or drawing. In order to reduce the number of cuts, markings are carried out from the edges of the sheet. The tool used is a fine-toothed hacksaw or a jigsaw.

A slot for the disk is marked on the underside of the sawn piece. The cut can be made with a finger cutter, securing it with your own hands in the chuck of an electric drill. In order to maintain the straightness of the cut edges, a simple homemade copier made from two metal corners is attached to the tabletop with clamps.
Further work depends on the mechanism for attaching the circular saw blade. The easiest way is to install it manually on two bearing supports, and drive it through a belt drive from a separate electric motor or from an electric drill.

To add additional rigidity to the tabletop, it is advisable to attach stiffening ribs along its edges, which can be made from bars or aluminum corners. The stiffeners are fastened to the table using self-tapping screws. To give greater strength to the entire structure, an additional layer of epoxy glue can be applied to the joint, which will fix the block to the tabletop along the entire plane of the joint.
The distance from the edge of the tabletop to the block should be 2.0...4.0 centimeters.

After this, in accordance with the selected drive design, the circular disk support assembly is attached. For reliable fastening, it is better to fix the bearing housings to the frame using a screw, threaded connection. In this case, the countersunk screw heads are located on the upper plane of the tabletop and should not protrude above its plane. The upper working surface of the desktop should be coated with wear-resistant varnish and polished.

For greater safety when working with a homemade device, it is advisable to install a swinging protective cover over the cutting edge of the disk.

Base design

For safe operation of a homemade circular saw, the table must be installed on a sufficiently rigid and durable base. To make it manually, the master’s imagination is given complete freedom. The base can be made in the form of a wooden base, but it is better to weld it from a corner (such as an aquarium frame) in accordance with the size of the tabletop.

Some manufacturing nuances

The main parameter that determines the design of a homemade “circular saw” is the thickness of the boards being cut. For household work with your own hands, it is usually not necessary to saw wood thicker than 15.0 ... 20.0 millimeters. To change the depth of the cut, you can use and/or make a special mechanism for lifting the disk, but this will significantly complicate the design of the homemade product.

When choosing a drive motor, the rotation speed of its shaft should be taken into account. Using a belt drive, you can change the speed with your own hands. If you intend to use an electric drill as a drive, then preference should be given to models with variable chuck rotation speed, then using such a hand-made circular saw will be a pleasure.

Conclusion

Despite the primitiveness of the described design, it will significantly facilitate DIY homework, from carpentry operations with boards to cross-cutting thick branches cut from garden trees.

Availability in household the required minimum tools for simple work justifies the need to have a small box with the simplest tools in everyday life.

But when the need arises to carry out simple repairs or realize a long-standing dream of a small hobby, then the need arises to purchase or independently manufacture a simple, but very necessary carpentry tools– stationary circular saw.

The practical use of this kind of tools varies from one craftsman to another, but one thing everyone agrees on is that such a machine is simply necessary in a household tool park.

In practical terms, a stationary circular saw is needed:

• for longitudinal dissolution of wood;
• not for trimming edges edged boards to obtain smooth sides;
• to obtain planks, slats, and boards of equal size;
• for selecting a part of the board (quarter) to create a tight connection of the boards into a shield.
• In purely economic terms, a circular saw is simply necessary for cutting firewood from wood processing waste.

At the same time, if you approach the issue of machine equipment creatively and put in a little more effort, then the result can be a machine with a whole set of universal functions:

1. sawing;
2. grinding;
3. planing;
4. drilling;
5. tool sharpening.

As with reinventing the wheel, there is no definite answer; each individual case has its own path of search and discovery.

But, basically, when asked how to make a circular saw, craftsmen make attempts in several directions:

• improvement of existing hand tools, adapting them as the main parts - an electric motor and a circular saw;
• improvement of industrially manufactured tools to suit the specific application;
• assembly of the machine from individual elements - shaft, motor, bed;
• independent production of all parts of the structure, well, except for the electric motor.

Manual circular design

The simplest and relatively inexpensive way to produce stationary machine for cutting wood, you will need to convert a manual mounting circular saw into a stationary one. The essence of the modification is to create a standard model of a stationary bed and work table for an industrially manufactured sample.

This modification will allow you to attach the saw upwards with the tool frame, secure it to the work table, and thus use it as a small circular saw. The guide for cutting planks is made from a steel angle 25x25 mm, it is attached to the work table.

The frame itself is welded from corners 25x25 mm, taking into account that the largest standard size circular saw is 230 mm, then such a frame is enough to create a lightweight, portable but stationary saw, the main use of which is small work that does not require long-term electric motor voltage.

This use case is implemented in some domestic and foreign manufacturers power tool, in which any type of machine is used as the basis of the machine hard surface, and the mounting saw itself is attached to the base using clamps.

This option involves making the machine body from wood or an iron angle or profile pipe, taking into account the fact that the placement of the tool will be in desktop version. Since the base will be small, the use of such a tool opens up new possibilities. This woodworking machine allows you to carry out work in any convenient place.

The principle of creating such a machine is similar to how a hand-held circular saw is created - a body, a top plate, and a device for fixing a mounting saw or grinder, or in the case of using a grinder as a motor, are made for the base.

Separately, to maintain maximum safety, you need to provide a button to turn the power supply on and off for the tool, and a mechanism for locking the power buttons on the saw or grinder itself.

For ease of operation, it is recommended to make the guide bar with guides for fixing the stop into the base body, thereby increasing the reliability of fastening. For clamping here, it is recommended to use bolts with wing nuts, thus further creating ease of operation.

A feature of such a full-fledged circular saw is its full-size body, the ability to more accurately adjust the position of the saw, a more powerful engine and, accordingly, a longer operating time.

Making the stop and preparing the necessary holes

For a stationary saw intended for longer operating hours, the presence of a reliable stop for fixing the thickness of standard opening boards is an important and necessary condition.

The emphasis itself is made of metal or using metal base and individual wooden parts.

The most acceptable option is to create a stop from a 100x100 mm corner, with metal plates of at least 5 mm thick welded to it with slots along the length. The length of the stop must be no less than the length of the working plate of the circular saw. The length of the plates must correspond to the width of the working surface of the stove.

Holes are drilled in the body through the work plate:

• on the edge through the machine frame;
• in the middle of the work plate.

The holes should form a regular rectangle with the vertices in the center of the holes.

The holes are necessary so that on the inside of the machine in these places, on strips reinforced with a strip of metal 5-6 mm thick, nuts are welded to fix the clamping bolts of the stop.

When making a stop and drilling holes, you need to take into account that the stop must be parallel to the plane of the saw.

Adjustment of the cutting depth or the height of the saw exit above the working plate is adjusted on the frame in two ways:

• creation of a lifting mechanism for the working plate;
• creation adjusting mechanism raising and lowering the axle of the circular saw and the motor with a belt drive.

The plate lifting mechanism can be constructed by fixing the metal plate to the machine frame using long bolts. Lifting will be carried out by tightening the locking and fixing nuts on each bolt.

The second type of lifting mechanism can be represented as:

1. guides along which the carriage with the shaft and motor moves;
2. adjusting rod with fixing nuts;
3. handles with an applied adjustment scale.

The adjustment rod itself can be replaced with a standard metal threaded stud. This option is even more profitable than inventing new methods.

The adjustment handle can be made by welding a metal plate to the end of the stud. At a distance of 4-5 mm from the center of the plate, aligned with the center of the stud, holes are drilled for self-tapping screws.

For ease of operation, a rod is welded to the end of the plate in such a way that the entire structure can be rotated using it.

As a scale, you can use a round washer made of multilayer plywood or plastic - it is put on a pin and fixed, on the one hand, with self-tapping screws, on the other hand, it is pressed with a nut.

Having assembled the entire lifting mechanism, a scale corresponding to a certain lifting height of the working plate is applied experimentally to the plywood.

For comfortable work with machines, it is necessary to provide, in addition to the already mentioned elements, others, tools and devices necessary for normal operation:

• For convenience, it is recommended to apply a centimeter jackal on the work plate, “0” of which corresponds to the side of the saw blade;
• To protect against accidental chips and splinters, it is recommended to install protective screen made of transparent plastic;
• to make cutting easier, when additional force is needed to press the board, it is recommended to consider installing a pressure roller or wooden pressure plates;
• To facilitate the work and prevent the board from falling back, it is necessary to install thrust plates.

To correctly and reliably connect parts and create a rigid structure capable of withstanding heavy loads, you will need:

• tools:
• grinder with cutting wheels;
• welding machine;
• hammer;
• drill with a set of drills;
• marking tool - tape measure, meter, square, scriber, core;
• consumables – electrodes, metal brushes;
• clamps, vices
• materials:
• metal corners or profile pipe;
• metal sheet for the work plate;
• bolts, washers, nuts, studs;
• metal strip;
• hardwood boards;

A circular saw is specialized equipment that is used for cutting wood, laminate, some types of wall panels, sheet materials such as plywood, OSB, chipboard. When carrying out a number of construction and repair work and carpentry operations, the presence of a stationary sawing installation can significantly reduce time costs and improve the quality of the result. If it is not possible to purchase a factory-made model, then you can assemble a circular saw with your own hands. For her self-made You will need the most common locksmith tools and the ability to work with them. The more necessary materials and parts are available, the cheaper the project will cost.

A stationary circular saw is designed to perform fairly large volumes of work. The design of the implemented option in two forms is presented in the diagram below. It also indicates main installation dimensions, which are recommended to be used as a starting point for self-assembly.

In the drawing the numbers correspond to the following structural elements homemade equipment:

• 1 – frame (bed);
• 2 – side panel;
• 3 – starting device;
• 4 – mechanism for adjusting the height of the table, 13 – its stops;
• 5, 6 and 7 – two halves sawing table with base;
• 8 – electric motor;
• 9 – platform for installing the motor;
• 10 – studs (M10);
• 11 – saw;
• 12 – shaft;
• 14 and 16 – driven and driven pulleys, respectively;
• 15 – belt;
• 17 – switch.

Advice! To improve personal safety when operating a homemade mechanism, its rotating parts located under the table should be covered with lids. A protective cover must be installed over the disk during equipment downtime.

It is better to place the starting device in a visible place on the panel (made of dielectric material) so that access to it is free. It is also recommended to equip the machine emergency switch. It is convenient when it is large in size.

Focusing on your own needs, you can improve the unit by making it with a jointer or planer. To do this, it is enough to secure a drum with knives on the existing shaft, and make a slot of the appropriate size in the table for it. This will allow you to expand the functionality of the created installation: plan lumber on it, chamfer and select a quarter from wooden blanks.

If you plan to regularly perform carpentry operations using homemade equipment, it is recommended to equip it with coordinate table with several guides. They need to be fixed at different angles. To organize productive work, it should also be possible to regulate the speed of the electric motor and quickly replace disks if necessary.

Selection of materials and parts

When creating a homemade circular saw, it is necessary to maintain an optimal balance between its functionality, safety during operation and manufacturing costs. To achieve this, you should select materials and parts with the necessary characteristics. To reduce costs, you need to start from old or unused equipment that is available.

Materials for making a bed with a table

To make a bed (frame) you can use channel or metal corners(sizes from 25×25 mm to 50×50 mm are sufficient). If these materials are not available, then the most economical option is to purchase them at a scrap metal collection point. The legs of the machine will use water pipes or profile pipes made of metal.

Advice! Frame elements must be connected to each other using electric welding, because bolted connections unwind under the influence of vibrations.

When assembling the frame, it is also necessary to weld spacers at the corners to impart rigidity to the structure. To make it easier to move the machine, you can equip it with durable wheels (with a metal rim) equipped with locks. It should be borne in mind that the more massive the unit being created, the more stable it must be in order to avoid injury.

Metal pipe frame

The main requirements for a table for a circular saw: resistance to mechanical influences (vibration, shock), the ability to withstand workpieces weighing more than 50 kg without deflection, and surface smoothness. These properties characterize sheets of the following materials:

• become;
• duralumin;
• silumin;
• PCB;
• moisture-resistant plywood;
• organic glass.

If you use moisture resistant plywood, then it should first be covered with zinc-coated sheet metal. The use of chipboard or OSB is not recommended due to the instability of these sheet materials to vibration influences.

Important! The strength of the table is of great practical importance. If it cracks or becomes distorted due to deflection, the disk may jam. This can lead not only to damage to the workpiece, but also to injury.

For various works(for example, unraveling logs onto boards) you need to equip a table side stop. It performs the same function as a circular saw guide manual type: ensures smooth sawing of lumber. Moreover, its use makes it possible to obtain workpieces of different sizes.

Guide stop must be strictly parallel to the disk to avoid jamming of the latter. It can be made from wooden block or metal corner. In the first case, only hardwood should be used. To be able to adjust the working gap, the stop must be removable. It can be fixed using clamps or in special grooves (bolts) made parallel to each other on the working surface of the tabletop.

Selection of engine and starting equipment

As a drive for the considered homemade version circular saw easiest to use single phase electric motor . Its power must be selected taking into account the upcoming load. Indirectly, you can navigate by the diameter of the installed disk:

• if it is 350 mm, then for normal operation of the unit you need an electric motor with a power of 1000 W;
• for a disk with a diameter of 170 mm, a 500 W motor is sufficient.

In the latter case, you can make a drive mechanism from an engine from an automatic washing machine. It is able to work for a long time at an average load level. For discs with a diameter of 350 mm, an electric motor from an industrial ventilation unit. It should be secured firmly to ensure proper engagement of the belt drive. For this reason, it will not be possible to reduce the level of vibration by installing the motor on shock absorbers: it will constantly oscillate.

You can also equip homemade equipment three-phase electric motor(at 380 V) of suitable power. To start it from a 220 V network, you will need to additionally install working (phase-shifting) and starting capacitors into the electrical circuit. It should also be taken into account that the engine power will be less than the nominal value indicated on its plate or in the passport.

Starting equipment should be selected based on the power of the motor, on which the maximum current in the circuit will depend. A good option is to use a start button in conjunction with thermal protection - this will protect the electric motor from burning out the windings if the current increases when the disk jams. It is better to install protection in a separate electrical panel, attached to the side panel of the machine from the convenient side.

All connections must be well insulated so that the wires do not short-circuit to the frame of a homemade circular electric saw. The on and off buttons should be pressed without any effort. Due to the frequent storage of equipment outdoors, it is necessary electrical part Fine protect from getting wet. The simplest thing is to cover the installation with oilcloth or similar waterproof material.

Gear, shaft and disc

To transmit rotation from the electric motor to the disk the best option is the use V-belt together with pulleys from the car engine. The use of gears is not recommended for safety reasons. This is due to the fact that if the disk jams, the belt will simply slip, and the gear drive, due to its rigidity, can cause failure of the entire drive unit.

Advice! If you use pulleys different diameters, then it will be possible to change the speed of the disk and install various types of it on the machine. This is true if there is no motor speed controller.

Shaft manufacturing It is better to entrust it to a specialist by ordering it from a professional turner. Moreover, when you plan to make a circular electric saw more functional by equipping it, for example, with a plane. But the simplest option is to buy a ready-made factory-produced part. A sample of it is shown in the photo below.

Disc for circular saw It’s easier to buy ready-made than to make it from a sheet of tool steel. The problem is one of balancing. An imbalance of the saw during operation of the equipment leads to its rapid failure and reduces the level of safety of the work process. If you have a circular saw for wood, you can remove saw blade from her.

It is necessary that the diameter of the disk corresponds to the corresponding parameter of the sawn timber: for example, for 100 mm logs you will need to use a saw measuring approximately 350 mm. This is due to the fact that the disk should not protrude more than a third of its diameter above the working surface of the table.

Ignoring this requirement not only leads to a deterioration in the quality of sawing workpieces, but also increases the possibility of injury.

Algorithm for assembling a homemade circular saw

The assembly of a woodworking machine according to the drawing given earlier is carried out in the following sequence:

• a rectangular frame is made from the corners;
• four legs are welded to it at the corners of the required height;
• at a height of about 200 mm from their lower edge, they make a binding from the corners;
• a shaft is mounted on the upper frame;
• fix the driven pulley on one side and the disk on the other;
• a table with a lifting mechanism is made and attached to the frame;
• on the lower frame they make a platform from corners or sheet metal for the electric motor;
• the drive pulley is fixed on the motor shaft;
• put the belt on the pulleys;
• On and off buttons and an electrical panel are mounted on the side panel of the unit;
• using wires of suitable cross-section, the elements are connected electrical circuit equipment (motor, buttons, protection);
• supply power to the machine from a stationary network.

The final stage is checking the functionality of the assembled equipment. First, you should make sure that all moving parts rotate freely: to do this, simply twist the drive pulley by hand. After which you can start the unit in test mode. If strong vibration is detected, you will need to check the reliability bolted connections and fixing the disc.

You can make a circular saw with a table consisting of two halves or a solid one. In the latter case, you will need to cut a rectangular slot in it for the disk. The design of the machine with a table consisting of two halves is shown in the video below. This video also demonstrates the design of the lifting mechanism for these parts.

Important! To prevent the possibility of the saw jamming due to the connection of fragments of the workpiece being cut, it is recommended to install a riving knife. It should be located at a distance of approximately 3 mm behind the disc.

To regulate belt tension, the electric motor must be installed so that it can be moved. The easiest way to achieve this is by creating larger slots than required for the motor mounting bolts. In this case, the expansion of the holes should be carried out in the direction of belt tension.

If you completely follow the drawing, you will need to make a more complex belt tensioning mechanism. The process will be carried out by pulling up the platform with the electric motor using studs and fixing it with locking bolts in the desired position (in the drawing these structural elements are indicated by the number 10).

The entire design and assembly process can be greatly simplified if circular saw blade. In this case, there is no need to install a number of parts (motor, disk, shaft, belt, starter). But the capabilities of the created model will be limited by the power of the tool used.

Homemade circular anyway must be grounded. It is also additionally recommended to install a residual current device or differential circuit breaker in the panel. These measures will protect against defeat electric shock, if the machine body is energized, for example, due to breakdown of wire insulation. It is better to select components for the electrical part of a circular saw so that they are suitable for repair and easy to maintain. Free access to equipment components will help you easily replace failed parts.