We insulate the ceiling in a house with a cold roof. Subtleties of ceiling insulation in a house with a cold roof Methods of insulating the roof of a one-story house

The roof must be insulated to prevent heat loss in the winter season and the possibility of overheating of the room in the summer season.

The roof is a mandatory structure of every home. It is necessary to protect all natural factors, namely rain, wind, snow, hail. For maximum room comfort, the roof must be built and insulated correctly.

Why insulate the roof?

At all times, people have been interested in the question of. Various tricks were used so that the heat did not escape outside, but remained in the house for a long time. With development construction technologies There are many ways to solve this issue. Used for roof insulation various materials.

Important! The roof is the protection of the house. If you do not insulate it, then under the influence of damp precipitation the beams begin to rot over time and the protection of the house loses its direct function. Carrying out insulation yourself saves a lot of money financial resources and keeps the roof structure in working order.

Nobody wants to produce expensive renovation work to restore the roof or completely replace it after a certain period of time. Therefore, it is important to properly insulate and waterproof.

During construction attic room there are strict requirements for insulation.

The question of roof insulation should arise at the stage of building a house. If the house is one-story, and the attic is not used as a living space, you do not need to insulate the roof from the inside. In such a situation, it is enough to insulate the ceiling.

Materials used for roofs

When insulating the roof it rises important question about the choice of insulation. Before you choose suitable material, you need to pay attention to thermal conductivity, material density, ability to absorb moisture, and environmental safety.

Helpful information ! The density of the material means the weight that falls on the rafter system. This should be taken into account when choosing material.

The ability to absorb moisture should be very low, since the ingress of moisture destroys the insulating material and renders it unusable.

Regarding environmental safety, the material should not harm the person living in the house.

Insulation materials are currently used:

  1. mineral wool. Fibrous material made from molten minerals.
  2. expanded polystyrene (foam plastic). Foamed material frozen in a certain state.
  3. sawdust. The smallest wood particles that are produced by the action of a saw.
  4. expanded clay Porous lightweight material, which is formed by firing clay.

These materials are in demand thanks to high quality and dignity. In addition to the positive qualities, these materials also have some disadvantages. Therefore, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the technology of roof strengthening and choose the option that suits you.

Roof insulation using mineral wool

Before insulating the roof using this method, you need to decide on installation: insulate from above or inside.

Roofs wooden houses often insulated with mineral wool, which has many advantages. Namely, this material:

  1. Safe in terms of fire;
  2. Absence harmful substances;
  3. Has good heat-insulating qualities;
  4. Doesn't have heavy weight, so it's not difficult to use.

The high level of hygroscopicity of mineral wool is a disadvantage, so it is necessary to carry out hydro- and vapor barrier.

We will consider the sequence of roof insulation with this material in stages.

First stage. Up finished rafter device a mineral wool slab is laid. It is important that there is no air space in the insulating layer, and that the joints are pressed tightly against the rafters.

When the insulation is laid, the waterproofing is laid so that it sag a little and is not stretched.

Important! Do not confuse the sides of the membrane waterproofing material. The top layer is waterproof, and the bottom layer does not block the passage of steam and moisture.

The waterproofing is laid slightly overlapping. Make sure that there is an air space of approximately 5 cm between the waterproofing layer and the membrane.

Second phase. When the installation of the waterproofing membrane is completed, the installation of ventilation begins.

Advice! It is advisable to use about two meters of beams for this purpose in order to save material.

The installed beams are covered with a sheathing of planks, which are laid across the rafters.

This device provides high-quality drying of moisture collecting on the membrane. Placed on the sheathing roofing material.

Third final stage. A vapor barrier material is stretched over the rafter system inside the building, onto which a sheathing of slats is nailed. And they are already attached to the slats interior lining– plywood.

It is important to remember that after installing mineral wool, the dimensions of the material increase by 20%.

Roof insulation using polystyrene foam

This is an insulating material in the form of small polymer balls filled with air and is often used to insulate roofs.

Since polystyrene foam retains heat well, is lightweight and easy to use.

This material has various positive qualities :

  1. Low level vapor permeability;
  2. Thermal insulation properties provided high level humidity;
  3. Lack of ability to absorb moisture;
  4. Wear resistance;
  5. Resistance to bacteria and insects;
  6. Resistant to fire.

You can cut polystyrene foam boards with a regular knife, which makes using this material much easier.

When processing the edges of the slab with sandpaper, dust and odor are not generated.

The process of insulating your roof with foam plastic is carried out according to the same scheme as with mineral wool. The space between the slabs can be sealed polyurethane foam.

Roof insulation using expanded clay

This type of roof insulation has been used for many years and is considered traditional.

The main advantages of the material are as follows:

  1. Low price;
  2. High heat retention properties;
  3. Not flammable;
  4. Waterproof.

Sand, crushed stone or gravel are used for thermal insulation. The scheme for insulating an expanded clay roof is very simple - the material is poured into the cavity, thereby creating a thermal insulation layer.

The main advantage of expanded clay is the absence of synthetic additives. This material is made of clay, so it is absolutely harmless.

Roof insulation using sawdust

This method of roof insulation is the cheapest in terms of price range. When budget resources do not allow the use of expensive materials; they can be insulated with sawdust. The only disadvantage of this method is that mice may appear in the sawdust.

To prevent such an unpleasant moment from happening, sawdust is mixed with lime. It is best to use wood shavings to insulate the roof.

The insulation process is very simple. It is enough to pour sawdust into the cavity. This forms a layer that prevents heat from escaping.

The effectiveness of this method of roof insulation is reduced by cause of lung spread of fire in case of possible fire.

Insulation of the attic roof

In modern times, it has become very fashionable to have an attic in your home. In addition to fashion, this structure increases the living space of the house. But making this room comfortable is not as easy as it seems at first glance.

The attic room is most susceptible to heat loss, since the contact with the external environment is much greater than other rooms. For comfortable living on the attic floor, you need to take care of waterproofing and roofing.

To prevent wind from blowing through the room and cold air from entering, you need to follow certain rules. You can choose any insulation material, but polystyrene foam is most often used.

Effective insulation has the following scheme:

  1. roof covering;
  2. sheathing;
  3. ventilation outlet;
  4. windproof film;
  5. rafter support;
  6. thermal insulation;
  7. vapor barrier;
  8. drywall.

Each of these materials has its own weight. This must be taken into account, since attic rafter systems are not always able to withstand the load. Whether it is worth removing any material without damaging the thermal insulation or not, it depends on temperature regime region.

To prevent rain and wind from entering the attic space, you need to choose high-density and vapor-permeable insulation. Otherwise, moist air will settle on the insulation and form mold.

Important! In order for moist air to enter the insulating material, it is necessary to install a ventilation outlet. Its area depends on the size of the roof.

Important to remember that heat leaves the attic space not only through the roof, but also through the walls. This also needs to be taken care of when insulating the attic.

conclusions

If your plans include insulating the roof with your own hands, you need to thoroughly study this process and implementation scheme. You can watch videos on this topic.

The quality of roof insulation with your own hands can be assessed in the winter season. If icicles appear on the cornice, this means that the work was done poorly and in violation of technology.

It is best to purchase a ready-made insulation system, since the manufacturers have thought through all the points in advance.

A house built and furnished with one’s own hands is the real pride of any owner. An integral stage in the arrangement of any residential building is internal insulation roofs. And if in most cases no problems arise with the thermal insulation of walls, then the insulation of the roof structure can confuse an untrained craftsman. Therefore, before starting the practical part, study all the theoretical recommendations proposed below.

After installing the insulation and all related elements, the roofing system will look like a layer cake. The design is based on a rafter system. All other elements are laid and secured onto it.

Modern roofing “pie”

In the classic version, layers of the pie, starting from the finish roofing, are placed as follows:

  • roofing;
  • lathing for installation of finishing material. Can be solid or sparse;
  • counter-lattice bars. Needed to create ventilation gap under roofing material;
  • waterproofing film;
  • thermal insulation material;
  • vapor barrier material;
  • lathing for installation of insulating materials and internal cladding;
  • inner lining material.

A properly installed roofing pie will significantly reduce heat loss in cold weather and prevent overheating of the space under the roof in hot weather. Waterproofing will protect the insulation from atmospheric moisture, and the vapor barrier material will prevent the formation of condensation and the occurrence of all related problems.

How to insulate?

The modern market offers a huge range of materials that can be successfully used for internal roof insulation. Try to avoid excessive savings - materials must be of high quality.

Insulation parameters

When choosing a suitable insulation, you need to pay attention to a number of basic characteristics of the material, namely:

  • weight. The heavier the insulation, the more significant load it will place on the roof. This imposes a number of additional requirements on the rafters and sheathing - their configuration and strength must correspond to the characteristics of thermal insulation;
  • thermal conductivity. It is better for this parameter to be as low as possible, if possible no more than 0.04 W/m*C;
  • resistance to adverse external influences.

Preferred insulation materials

Not many materials meet the above requirements. Among all the existing insulation options, professionals recommend giving preference to mineral wool insulators and foam panels. All other things being equal, mineral wool is more preferable.

Additional insulating materials

In combination with insulation, the roof will need to be additionally insulated using vapor and moisture insulation materials. For roof waterproofing, polyethylene and roofing felt are usually used. These materials are highly resistant to moisture.

The vapor barrier layer is best equipped using special membranes, glassine or modern foil materials.

Regardless of the chosen insulation (installation is still carried out in the same sequence), during the work process you must adhere to a number of basic recommendations, without which you cannot count on high-quality internal insulation of the roof.

All the rules can be combined into one brief summary of tips, namely:


Thus, even before starting thermal insulation work, the master needs to study a fairly large amount of information and remember a number of important requirements. The work must be done to the highest possible quality. Properly equipped insulation will make living in the house as comfortable as possible and will significantly reduce the cost of heating the premises.

Use the recommendations received and remember: insulation must be done with the obligatory installation of vapor barrier and moisture barrier layers. Only such a complex will make it possible to obtain a reliable, durable roofing system that is resistant to any adverse external influences. It’s better to immediately do everything according to the rules and live peacefully in a safe home than to patch holes in the roofing pie after each heavy rain.

Preparing for roof insulation

The insulation procedure remains almost the same regardless of the type of roof, materials used and other points. Having understood the main points of thermal insulation work, you will be able to successfully apply them in practice.

First of all, carefully prepare the roof for the upcoming internal insulation.

First step. Inspect the rafter system. If you find rotted or damaged elements, replace them with new parts.

Second step. Treat all wooden elements with an antiseptic.

Third step. Check the condition of pipelines and electrical wiring if these communications are laid under the roof.

Guide to internal roof insulation

Start working on the internal insulation of the roof. The event is held in several stages. Go through each of them sequentially, not forgetting the recommendations received earlier.

It is assumed that the rafters, sheathing and other necessary elements have already been installed and all you have to do is install the insulating materials and then lay the final roofing covering.

The first step is vapor barrier

Lay the film with a 10-centimeter overlap. It is convenient to use for attaching vapor barrier to bars construction stapler with staples. Double-seal all joints with duct tape. Be especially careful and thorough when sealing various difficult areas, such as the junction of the film with pipes, walls and other structural elements.

The second step is insulation

EKOTEPLIN - roof insulation

Place the selected insulation in the cells of the sheathing. Usually the sheathing is assembled so that the step between its bars is a couple of centimeters less than the width of the insulation, so you can place the insulating boards as tightly as possible. The sheathing bars themselves must be nailed to the rafters perpendicular to them.

At great desire you can do without lathing - you hammer nails along the edges of the rafter legs and stretch the wire between them. It will hold the insulation boards. However, it is better not to give up the sheathing - it is safer with it.

The insulation itself is usually laid in 2 layers. Wherein upper layer it is necessary to lay them with a certain offset in relation to the bottom one - it is impossible for the joints of the insulation boards of both layers to coincide.

Third step - waterproofing

Place the waterproofing film so that it completely covers the insulation, sheathing and rafters. To fix the film, it is most convenient to use a construction stapler with staples.

Place waterproofing under the roof overhang - this will create the conditions necessary for effective water drainage in the future.

At the end, all you have to do is lay the selected roofing material on the roof.

Thus, although independent internal insulation of the roof is a very important and responsible undertaking, there is nothing overly complicated in its implementation. Do everything in accordance with the instructions, and very soon your home will become truly cozy and warm, and heating costs during the cold season will significantly decrease.

Good luck!

Video - Do-it-yourself roof insulation from the inside

When building a house or reconstructing it, most often its owners come to the conclusion that the roof and ceiling must be insulated in order to prevent loss of thermal energy. To insulate the roof wooden house from the inside, you need to choose the right thermal insulation material and install it, following the technology.

It has long been established through experience and calculations that heat losses occur through every element of a house’s structure. For example, from 20 to 30% of the heat is lost through the attic floor and roof, which means that the same part of the amount paid for its burning is wasted. Therefore, having once invested in high-quality insulation of your home, you can save on heating for all subsequent years.

It should be noted that if the house is located in a region with a mild winter climate, then many home owners prefer to insulate only the attic floor. However, thermal insulation of the roof at different times of the year can perform three functions:

— in winter it keeps the house warm;

- in summer it does not allow the attic to heat up, which means the house will be cool;

— in addition, insulation is an excellent sound insulator, so the rooms will always be quiet, even during heavy rain and with any type of roofing.

Based on these arguments, we can conclude that it is best to insulate and soundproof not only the attic floor, but also the roof itself.

You may be interested in information about how liquid insulation is produced

Types of insulation for roof structures

The choice of insulation must also be made with knowledge of the matter, taking into account technical and performance characteristics material. In this case, special attention should be paid to the following:

  • Low thermal conductivity.
  • Increased moisture resistance.
  • Low flammability.
  • Environmental cleanliness.
  • Durability of the material.

The materials used to insulate the roof and attic floor from the inside include:

  • Mineral wool in slabs and rolls.
  • Ecowool made on a cellulose basis.
  • Expanded polystyrene (foam plastic).
  • Penoizol and sprayed polyurethane foam.
  • Expanded clay of different fractions (insulation of floors).

In addition, traditionally such natural materials, such as straw, slag, sawdust and dry leaves. Some builders still use these insulation materials today, but they require special treatment, since they are not moisture resistant, which means putrefactive processes and the formation of microflora colonies are possible in them.

All materials used for thermal insulation of the roof are relatively light in weight, so they will slightly add weight to the rafter and ceiling structure.

This table presents the main characteristics of the most popular insulation materials today:

Material parameters Materials Thickness, mm
50 60 80 100 120 150 200 250
Density, kg/m³ Mineral wool100-120
Expanded polystyrene25-35
Polyurethane foam54-55
Thermal resistance, (m²°K)/W Mineral wool1.19 1.43 1.9 2.38 2.86 3.57 4.76 5.95
Expanded polystyrene1.35 1.62 2.16 2.7 3.24 4.05 5.41 6.76
Polyurethane foam1.85 2.22 2.96 3.7 4.44 5.56 7.41 9.26
Thermal conductivity coefficient, W/(m×°K) Mineral wool0,038-0,052
Expanded polystyrene0.037
Polyurethane foam0.027
Weight 1 m², kg Mineral wool15.2 15.8 17.6 20.9 23.2 26.7 32.4 38.2
Expanded polystyrene9.8 10 10.5 11 11.5 12.3 13.5 14.8
Polyurethane foam11.2 11.7 12.8 13.9 15 16.6 19.3 22

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is most often used to insulate roof structures, since this material is easy to install and is well suited in its parameters for thermal insulation of attic spaces in a wooden house.

One of the most convenient materials is mineral wool.

Since this material is made from different raw materials, its characteristics and prices vary somewhat. And to choose the best option, you need to consider each of its types:

  • Slag wool is produced from blast furnace slag and consists of fibers 5 ÷ 12 microns thick and 14 ÷ 16 mm long. This option is the most unsuitable for insulating an attic, so don’t be fooled by its low cost, since the insulation will have to be done again in a couple of years.

Slag wool is quite hygroscopic, which means it absorbs moisture well and, once saturated with it, it settles and loses its thermal insulation qualities. In addition, it has low heat resistance and is classified G4. This insulation can withstand temperatures of only 300–320 degrees, which is a low indicator for its use in wooden structures.

The thermal conductivity of the material is 0.48 ÷ 0.52 W/m×°K, which is much lower than that of the other two types of mineral wool. During installation, you will notice that the slag fibers are quite fragile, brittle and brittle. Therefore, it is best not to use this type of mineral wool for residential premises.

  • Glass wool. This type of insulation is made from molten sand and broken glass. The thickness of the fibers is 4 ÷ 15 microns, and the length is 14 ÷ 45 mm - these parameters give the material elasticity and strength. The random arrangement of fibers promotes airiness and improves the insulating qualities of the heat insulator.

Improved modern glass wool is designed on for heating up to 460 ÷ 500 degrees, which is much higher than that of slag wool. The thermal conductivity of this type of mineral wool is 0.030 ÷ 0.048 W/m×°K.

Glass wool is widely used for insulating stone buildings; it is also suitable for the roof of a wooden house. If thermally insulated attic option under-roof space, then glass wool is often used in combination with polyurethane foam.

Due to the fact that glass wool fibers are very thin, brittle and brittle, they easily penetrate the fabric and can get into the mucous membranes of the eyes or into the respiratory tract. Therefore, when starting installation work, you should protect yourself protective equipment wearing a suit made of thick fabric, special glasses, a respirator and gloves.

  • Basalt (stone) wool is made from mountain gabbro - basalt breeds The thermal conductivity of basalt insulation is 0.032 ÷ 0.05 W/m×°K, the material can withstand temperatures up to 550 ÷ 600 degrees.

Working with stone wool is much easier, since its fibers are not so brittle and thorny, their thickness ranges from 3.5 to 5 microns, length from 3 to 5 mm. They are located chaotically and their interlacing gives the insulation good strength, so the material is quite resistant to mechanical damage.

Prices for basalt wool

basalt wool

In addition, basalt insulation is inert to chemical influences and tolerates the destructive influence of the external environment.

All types of mineral wool for insulating surfaces are produced in rolls or mats (blocks) different sizes. Today at construction stores you can find foil material that is more effective for insulation, since foil reflects and retains heat indoors.

The main disadvantage of all types of mineral wool is the fiber binding substance, which is often made on the basis of phenol-formaldehyde resin. It constantly releases toxic substances into the air that are dangerous to human health. Therefore, it is impossible to call any type of mineral wool absolutely environmentally friendly.

You might be interested in information about what it is

Expanded polystyrene

Expanded polystyrene has become the most popular material for insulating houses, and all this is due to its affordability and ease of installation. But for that to the attic was thoroughly insulated, without the formation of cold bridges, it is necessary to ensure a tight fit of the heat insulator to the surfaces, which is difficult to achieve using polystyrene foam, since it does not have the proper flexibility. Therefore, it is combined with other insulation materials, including sprayed polyurethane foam.

Plates of ordinary polystyrene foam - polystyrene foam (left), and extruded

Polystyrene foam has an average thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.037 W/(m×°K), but it also depends on the density of the material, as well as its thickness.

Moisture absorption ordinary polystyrene foam is up to 2%, which significantly exceeds this parameter for extruded polystyrene foam - here the threshold is about 0.4% of the total volume of the material.

Prices for expanded polystyrene

expanded polystyrene

The most dangerous quality of expanded polystyrene is its flammability, and when ignited, the material melts, simultaneously creating thick smoke. The smoke emanating from it is extremely toxic and hazardous to health.

Therefore, when choosing this insulation, it is necessary to take into account all its positive and negative properties and protect the house as much as possible from possible emergency situations. Special attention it will be necessary to pay attention to reliable insulation of the wiring and correct installation chimney channels (pipes).

Polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is applied to roofing and ceiling structures by spraying with help special equipment. Spraying is carried out in several layers, so the coating can be quite thick. With this method of application, polyurethane foam penetrates into all cracks and crevices, so the insulating layer will be completely sealed. Hardening and expanding, the insulation acquires a high density, and its thermal conductivity is only 0.027 W/(m×°K), at moisture absorption no more than 0.2% of the total volume of material. And this means that there is no loss of it thermal insulation qualities.

Sprayed polyurethane foam quickly expands and hardens, and its excess is easily cut off with a sharp knife, which adds convenience in adjusting the finished coating to the level rafter system for further finishing or roofing work.

By using this material, you can avoid waterproofing, wind protection and vapor barrier - it copes well with the whole range of problems, without retaining steam or allowing moisture to enter the room.

Polyurethane foam can be sprayed onto any surface: horizontal, vertical or inclined, as it has high adhesion to all building materials.

Ecowool

Ecowool is made from small particles of cellulose. Laying this material can be done in a “dry” or “wet” way.

Environmentally friendly material - ecowool

  • In the first case, the insulation is scattered between the floor beams and compacted as far as possible by rolling. In this way on the walls and roofing structures installation will not be possible.
  • For the “wet” installation method, special equipment is required, where the dry substance is mixed with adhesives and then distributed under pressure using a pipe onto the floors and walls.

“Wet” laying of ecowool

  • Another option for insulating ecowool is to fill the space between rafter legs, after attaching them finishing material, for example, drywall or wooden lining. In this case, you need to correctly calculate the amount of material - it will depend on the height of the rafters, which will determine the thickness of the thermal insulation.

Ecowool has a number of advantages over other insulation materials, and these include the following:

  • This is an environmentally friendly material that does not emit environment no harmful fumes.
  • Ecowool is able to “preserve” surfaces, preventing fungal and putrefactive formations from developing.
  • If during the operation of the house it turns out that the thickness of the insulating layer on the roof is insufficient, then it can be increased or the already laid material can be compacted.
  • Installation of insulation is carried out quite quickly.
  • Ecowool has a long service life without losing its original thermal insulation qualities.
  • Cellulose insulation material is necessarily treated with fire retardants, therefore it has very low flammability and a tendency to self-extinguish. In addition, ecowool does not produce smoke, and even more so, it does not emit substances hazardous to the human body.
  • Ecowool applied to any surface forms a seamless, hermetic coating of the required thickness.
  • The insulation is a “breathable” material, so it does not retain moisture.
  • The payback period for such insulation is one to three years.

The table below shows the comparative digital characteristics of two environmentally friendly pure materials- ecowool and expanded clay, which will be discussed below and discussed below.

Material parametersExpanded clay gravelEcowool (cellulose)
Thermal conductivity coefficient, W/(m°K)0,016-0,018 0,038-0,041
Density, kg/m³200-400 42-75
Density of connection to the structureDepending on the faction:Tight fit, seals all cracks and cracks well
- 15-20 mm - presence of voids;
- 5-10 mm - tight fit.
Linear shrinkageabsent
Vapor permeability mg/Pa×m×h0.3 0.67
Chemical inertnessneutral
FlammabilityincombustibleG1-G2 (lowly flammable material, because it is treated with fire retardants
Moisture absorption,% by weight10-25 14-16

Expanded clay

Expanded clay is very often used to insulate the attic floor of a wooden house. Of course, the rafter system is made of expanded clay thermally insulate difficult, but pouring it between the floor beams onto previously prepared surfaces will not be difficult.

This material is made from specially prepared clay that undergoes high-temperature heat treatment. Expanded clay is produced in four fractions, starting from expanded clay sand and ending with large elements measuring 20 ÷ 30 mm.

Fraction, mmBulk density, kg/m³Total density of material, kg/m³Compressive strength MPa
1 - 4 400 800 - 1200 2,0 - 3,0
4 - 10 335 - 350 550 - 800 1,2 - 1,4
10 - 30 200 - 250 450 - 650 0,9 - 1,1

Prices for expanded clay

expanded clay

Advantages of this material:

  • Ecological cleanliness. He doesn't call allergic reactions and does not emit toxic substances into the surrounding atmosphere.
  • The insulation does not lose its original thermal insulation qualities throughout the entire period of operation.
  • For insulation, you can choose a material of a suitable fraction - the density of the backfill will depend on this. The finer the fraction, the denser the backfill.
  • Expanded clay is a non-flammable material, which is very important quality for wooden structures. This insulation is used to insulate chimney pipes from wooden floors, pouring it into a box built around them.
  • Another important advantage of this material is that it is not tolerated by domestic rodents. If the house is located on a suburban area, then mice may well live in it even in the attic, and some insulation materials create quite suitable conditions for this - but not expanded clay!

You might be interested in information about what it is

Auxiliary materials

In addition to thermal insulation materials, the insulating “pie” uses waterproofing (windproof) and vapor barrier films.

  • Waterproofing is necessary to protect insulation against condensation, which can be collected between the heat insulator and the roof. In addition, this material performs a windproof function, preventing cold, dust and moisture from getting from the air directly onto the insulation, as well as into the attic.

This membrane must have steam-permeable ability - excess moisture in the insulation will simply evaporate into the atmosphere.

If insulation is carried out in an already installed structure and there are no plans to change the roofing material, under which there should be waterproofing membrane, then for insulation you will have to use sprayed polyurethane foam - it does not require protection from the wind, and it can be sprayed onto on a reliable base made of boards or directly onto the roofing.

  • When thermally insulating roof slopes, the insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film from the attic side. Vapor barrier is intended to protect the thermal insulation material and wooden elements rafter system from moisture penetration from the inside.

As you know, excess moisture that gets on insulation and wood can lead to mold and rot, as well as unpleasant smell, which will eventually move into living rooms.

If it is planned to equip a heated room in the attic, then the vapor barrier film must be secured under the wall finishing.

When insulating the floor, a vapor barrier is laid under the insulation, on the boards and beams of the structure, since it should retain heat in the rooms below and not allow wet vapors from them to get into the thermal insulation layer.

The protective membrane is produced different thicknesses and can be made from foil or nonwoven fabric. If a film with a foil surface is used, then it is mounted on the roof slopes with the reflective side towards the attic. When insulating the floor, it should be turned towards the lower room. This is done so that the heat is reflected into the attic or to the side living rooms and did not go outside. The canvases are glued together with foil tape, which will help create the integrity and tightness of the membrane.

If you want to save money, you can use old proven methods of vapor barrier, when the cracks between the attic floor boards, as well as their joints with the beams, are well coated with a paste made from lime and clay. Such protection will not only create a high tightness of the ceiling, but will also protect the wood from pests, and will also allow the insulating layers to “breathe”.

When the lime or clay has dried well, you can proceed to insulation operations. By the way, wooden houses have been insulated with sawdust for a long time - for this they were mixed with the same clay and a little lime was added to the mixture, which gave the composition elasticity. In addition to sawdust, other materials were also used for insulation. natural materials, which were dried and placed between the floor beams.

This method of vapor barrier and insulation is still used today, as it helps to save quite a decent amount. But all such work is very labor-intensive and requires certain knowledge, skill and time.

Those home owners who they want the work to go faster, they use modern materials.

How to calculate the required insulation thickness?

It is not enough to decide on the type of insulation based only on its environmental friendliness, ease of installation and cost. It is very important to correctly calculate the required thickness of the thermal insulation layer. This is also necessary for to create indoors comfortable conditions, to avoid overpaying for excess material.

Rasche T t of the required insulation thickness is determined by special guidelines documents - SNiP 23 02-2003 " Thermal protection buildings"and the Code of Rules SP 23-101-2004 "Design thermal protection of buildings" They contain formulas for calculations that take into account a very large number of parameters. But, with some acceptable simplification, we can take the following expression as a basis:

δth= (R – 0.16 – δ1/ λ1– δ2/ λ2 – δ n/ λ n) × λut

Let’s begin to understand the quantities available in the formula:

  • δth– this is the desired parameter, the thickness of the layer of thermal insulation material.
  • R– required table value of thermal resistance (m²×° WITH/W) insulated structure. These parameters are calculated for each region of Russia in accordance with specific climatic conditions. Such thermal resistance will ensure, with a properly designed heating system, the maintenance of comfortable temperature at +19°. The diagram below with a map of Russia shows the meaning R for walls, ceilings and coverings.

When calculating the insulation for the roof, the value “for coverings” is taken, for the attic floor - “for the floors”.

  • δ nand λn— the thickness of the material layer and its thermal conductivity coefficient.

The formula allows you to calculate the thickness of insulation for a multilayer structure, taking into account thermal insulating properties of each layer, from 1 before n. For example, a roofing “pie” will consist of continuous sheathing made of laminated plywood over rafters with roofing felt covering on top. Below is a layer of insulation that has to be calculated, and then the ceiling will be lined with natural wooden clapboard. Thus, three layers will be taken into account: lining + plywood + roofing felt.

Important - only those outer layers that fit tightly to each other are counted. For example, flat slate You can take it into account, but the wavy one can no longer be taken into account. If the roof design involves a ventilated roof, then all layers located above the ventilated gap are not taken into account.

Where to get the values? Measure the thickness of each layer ( δ n) – it won't be difficult. The value of the thermal conductivity coefficient ( λ n), if it is not indicated in the technical documentation of the material, can be taken from the table below:

Estimated thermal performance indicators of some building and thermal insulation materials
Material Density of materials in dry state, kg/m3 Calculated coefficients for different conditions exploitation
ω λ μ
A B A B A, B
λ - thermal conductivity coefficient (W/(m°C)); ω - coefficient of mass ratio of moisture in the material (%); ; μ - vapor permeability coefficient (mg/(m h Pa)
A. Polymer
Expanded polystyrene150 1 5 0.052 0.06 0.05
Same100 2 10 0.041 0.052 0.05
Same40 2 10 0.041 0.05 0.05
Extruded polystyrene foam25 2 10 0.031 0.031 0.013
Same28 2 10 0.031 0.031 0.013
Same33 2 10 0.031 0.031 0.013
Same35 2 10 0.031 0.031 0.005
Same45 2 10 0.031 0.031 0.005
PVC1 and PV1 foam plastic125 2 10 0.06 0.064 0.23
Same100 or less2 10 0.05 0.052 0.23
Polyurethane foam80 2 5 0.05 0.05 0.05
Same60 2 5 0.041 0.041 0.05
Same40 2 5 0.04 0.04 0.05
Perlite plastic concrete200 2 3 0.052 0.06 0.008
Same100 2 3 0.041 0.05 0.008
Thermal insulation products made of foam synthetic rubber"Aeroflex"80 5 15 0.04 0.054 0.003
Extruded polystyrene foam "Penoplex", type 3535 2 3 0.029 0.03 0.018
Same. type 4545 2 3 0.031 0.032 0.015
B. Mineral wool, fiberglass
Stitched mineral wool mats125 2 5 0.064 0.07 0.3
Same100 2 5 0.061 0.067 0.49
Same75 2 5 0.058 0.064 0.49
Mineral wool mats with synthetic binder225 2 5 0.072 0.082 0.49
Same175 2 5 0.066 0.076 0.49
Same125 2 5 0.064 0.07 0.49
Same75 2 5 0.058 0.064 0.53
Soft, semi-rigid and hard mineral wool slabs with synthetic and bitumen binders250 2 5 0.082 0.085 0.41
Same225 2 5 0.079 0.084 0.41
Same200 2 5 0.076 0.08 0.49
Same150 2 5 0.068 0.073 0.49
Same125 2 5 0.064 0.069 0.49
Same100 2 5 0.06 0.065 0.56
Same75 2 5 0.056 0.063 0.6
Mineral wool slabs of increased rigidity with an organophosphate binder200 1 2 0.07 0.076 0.45
Semi-rigid mineral wool slabs with starch binder200 2 5 0.076 0.08 0.38
Same125 2 5 0.06 0.064 0.38
Glass staple fiber boards with synthetic binder45 2 5 0.06 0.064 0.6
Stitched glass fiber mats and strips150 2 5 0.064 0.07 0.53
URSA glass staple fiber mats25 2 5 0.043 0.05 0.61
Same17 2 5 0.046 0.053 0.66
Same15 2 5 0.048 0.053 0.68
Same11 2 5 0.05 0.055 0.7
URSA glass staple fiber boards85 2 5 0.046 0.05 0.5
Same75 2 5 0.042 0.047 0.5
Same60 2 5 0.04 0.045 0.51
Same45 2 5 0.041 0.045 0.51
Same35 2 5 0.041 0.046 0.52
Same30 2 5 0.042 0.046 0.52
Same20 2 5 0.043 0.048 0.53
Same17 . 2 5 0.047 0.053 0.54
Same15 2 5 0.049 0.055 0.55
B. Plates from natural organic and inorganic materials
Wood fiber and particle boards1000 10 12 0.23 0.29 0.12
Same800 10 12 0.19 0.23 0.12
Same600 10 12 0.13 0.16 0.13
Same400 10 12 0.11 0.13 0.19
Same200 10 12 0.07 0.08 0.24
Fiberboard and wood concrete slabs based on Portland cement500 10 15 0.15 0.19 0.11
Same450 10 15 0.135 0.17 0.11
Same400 10 15 0.13 0.16 0.26
Reed slabs300 10 15 0.09 0.14 0.45
Same200 10 15 0.07 0.09 0.49
Peat thermal insulation slabs300 15 20 0.07 0.08 0.19
Same200 15 20 0.06 0.064 0.49
Gypsum slabs1350 4 6 0.5 0.56 0.098
Same1100 4 6 0.35 0.41 0.11
Gypsum cladding sheets (gypsum plasterboard)1050 4 6 0.34 0.36 0.075
Same800 4 6 0.19 0.21 0.075
G. Backfills
Expanded clay gravel600 2 3 0.17 0.19 0.23
Same500 2 3 0.15 0.165 0.23
Same450 2 3 0.14 0.155 0.235
Same400 2 3 0.13 0.145 0.24
Same350 2 3 0.125 0.14 0.245
Same300 2 3 0.12 0.13 0.25
Same250 2 3 0.11 0.12 0.26
D. Wood, products made from it and other natural organic materials
Pine and spruce across the grain500 15 20 0.14 0.18 0.06
Pine and spruce along the grain500 15 20 0.29 0.35 0.32
Oak across the grain700 10 15 0.18 0.23 0.05
Oak along the grain700 10 15 0.35 0.41 0.3
Plywood600 10 13 0.15 0.18 0.02
Cardboard facing1000 5 10 0.21 0.23 0.06
Multilayer construction cardboard650 6 12 0.15 0.18 0.083
E. Roofing, waterproofing, facing materials
- Asbestos-cement
Asbestos-cement flat sheets1800 2 3 0.47 0.52 0.03
Same1600 2 3 0.35 0.41 0.03
- Bituminous
Petroleum bitumens for construction and roofing1400 0 0 0.27 0.27 0.008
Same1200 0 0 0.22 0.22 0.008
Same1000 0 0 0.17 0.17 0.008
Asphalt concrete2100 0 0 1.05 1.05 0.008
Products made from expanded perlite with a bitumen binder400 1 2 0.12 0.13 0.04
Same300 1 2 0.09 0.099 0.04

Please note that there are two values ​​given for materials λ n– for operating modes A or B. These modes provide for specific humidity conditions - both by the region of construction and by the type of premises.

To begin with, it is necessary to determine the zone - wet, normal or dry - using the diagram map.

Then, by comparing the zone and features of the room, according to the proposed table, determine the mode, A or B, according to which select the value λ n.

Room humidity conditions Operating conditions, A or B, by humidity zone (according to the schematic map)
Dry zone Normal zone Wet area
Dry AAB
Normal ABB
Damp or Wet BBB
  • λut – thermal conductivity coefficient for the selected type of insulation, according to which the thickness is calculated.

Now, having written out the thickness and thermal conductivity coefficient for each layer, you can calculate the thickness of the insulation. Please note that the formula requires the thickness to be specified in meters!

To make the task easier for the interested reader, a special calculator has been placed. It provides calculations for three layers (not counting insulation). If the number of layers is less, then simply leave the extra column blank. The thickness of the layers and the final result are in millimeters.

Builders often charge a lot of money for roof insulation work. This is motivated by the fact that this is labor-intensive work that is carried out by weight. To save money,you can make a wooden house yourself. No special qualifications are needed here, no special equipment is required. And it doesn’t matter if your roof is made of ondulin, metal tiles or slate, gable or broken construction. However, modern insulating materials and proven technology for insulating a cold roof have many nuances that you need to know.

It is not difficult to make the roof warm and the premises of a private wooden house suitable for year-round living. The main thing is to create good conditions to retain heat inside the attic. How to insulate a roof and what materials to use will be discussed in this article. Insulation issues can be addressed both during the construction of the house and after, by reconstructing the upper floor.

In accordance with the laws of physics and convection processes, warm air masses rise upward. If there is a cold roof on a wooden house, all the heat will go outside. Such heat loss forces additional heating of rooms in the house, wasting electricity or fuel. Therefore, high-quality insulation of ceilings is the most important task for heat conservation, rational use of coolants and creating a microclimate in the house.

Cold is the design of a gable or sloping roof that does not have a multilayer structure. In such inexpensive and simple roofs There is no waterproofing, vapor barrier or thermal insulation.

The design diagram of a gable cold roof is very simple - on beams wooden floor As a rule, the floor is laid from boards, and the roof is made of slate or metal tiles, without any insulators. In order to properly insulate a cold roof, you need to know what requirements apply to the design of the ceiling of the upper floor and attic floors. You should also choose the right insulation material.

Requirements for roof slabs

When starting to insulate a roof made of ondulin, slate or metal tiles, broken or hip, you should know what building codes and rules exist for the ceilings of a private wooden house. In order not to violate the basic parameters that must be met by the attic design, ceiling insulation andinsulation mansard roof from the insideshould be carried out taking into account the basic requirements. For attic floors and ceilings, this is strength and compliance with fire safety standards.

The strength of the attic floors must correspond to the nature of the roof space. If there is an attic in the attic, then the floors must support the weight of the floors, furniture and people in it. Floor beams should not bend, and permissible load cannot exceed 100 kg per square meter.

The second basic requirement is fire safety, which is especially important for a wooden house. All structural elements must be treated with special fire retardant compounds.

Types of heat-insulating materials

To properly insulate the structure wooden ceiling and the entire metal tile roof uses a variety of thermal insulators.

Main types:

  • polystyrene foam and penoplex;
  • mineral wool;
  • ecowool;
  • glass wool;
  • Fiberboard;
  • foamed polyurethane;

Each of the listed insulation materials has its own pros and cons. The choice of insulation for the ceiling and for metal tiles depends on a variety of factors. Therefore, you should familiarize yourself with each type of heat insulator in more detail in order to understand the best way to insulate the ceiling and the entire upper floor.

Budget insulation options

In addition to those listed, there are inexpensive bulk insulation materials. Such materials are also usedinsulation of attic roof. Bulk heat insulators include:

  • sawdust and shavings;
  • expanded clay;
  • slag;
  • ecowool.

Advice!

To prevent insulation crumbs from spilling through the cracks of the wooden floor, you can lay plastic film.

But remember that there will be no vapor barrier, since polyethylene does not allow moisture to pass through, which can condense in the room on the top floor. Backfill insulation requires calculations of the strength of the floors. It is necessary to make sure that the beams can withstand the considerable weight of bulk insulation, as well as slate or metal tiles.

Another economical option ceiling insulation - laying corrugated cardboard. Sheets of material are attached with self-tapping screws or construction staples to the attic floor. Joints and seams are sealed with polyurethane foam. Electrical wiring is stored in corrugated channels, protecting wooden structures from fire.

General scheme of ceiling insulation

Roof and ceiling structures are the most vulnerable elements to heat loss in a home. They account for from 15 to 40 percent of the total heat transfer of the house, regardless of the roofing material - metal tiles or slate. In addition, to create a comfortable climate in the house, a vapor barrier must be made to protect the insulation from fumes, and the ceiling and attic floor must also be waterproofed.

It is recommended to carry out the insulation of a wooden house in a comprehensive manner, arranging thermal insulation of the roof from the inside and the ceiling at the same time. This will give savings insulation material, since two ten-centimeter layers of heat insulation with an air gap in the attic space replace a layer of the same insulation 25-30 cm thick. This saves about forty percent of thermal insulation. External insulation of the ceiling with simultaneous thermal insulation of the roof from the attic will give a good effect and will avoid dampening of the lower rooms. Such thermal insulation can be carried out without dismantling the metal roof and the ceiling of the upper floor.

Features of ceiling insulation

They consist in the fact that when installing thermal insulation, there is no way to organize the removal of condensate, which is formed due to the difference in temperatures of the attic and lower rooms. In addition, depending on the time of year, there is a change in warm and cold sides. Therefore, when installing thermal insulation for a wooden ceiling, it is necessary to ensure the complete absence of condensation on the insulation.

You can prevent the formation of condensation by laying a special vapor barrier - a film material that allows moisture to pass in one direction.

Advice!

It should be laid in such a way that there is a gap between the insulating material and the film.

It should be noted that when insulating the ceiling great importance It has correct application release film. Below we will look at their varieties.

Membranes and separation films

Modern technologies make it possible to use an increasingly diverse range of materials that allow water, steam and other substances to pass through or repel. For years, proven glassine, roofing felt and tar, used on slate roofs or metal tile roofs, fade into the background and are rarely used. Technological membrane-type insulating films are much lighter, more convenient to use and, importantly, perform their function more specifically and efficiently. In addition, they are reliable, strong and durable, and their thickness is much smaller. Important correct scheme their applications.

Integrated insulating materials can be divided into two groups.

1) Vapor barrier. For this purpose, so-called vapor barriers are used - thin-layer materials that do not allow evaporation to pass through. In turn, they can be:

  • film;
  • foil;
  • foil with capillary substrate (folgoizol).

2) Waterproofing. It is carried out using materials that do not allow moisture and any liquids to pass through, called membranes. Are divided into:

  • simple film with one layer;
  • micro-perforated with steam penetration in both directions;
  • superdiffusive, with vapor permeation in one direction.

Vapor barrier is best achieved using film polypropylene materials, the thickness of which is from 55 microns. Polyethylene films are poorly suited for protection against evaporation, since, regardless of the thickness, they allow air to pass through due to their structural features.

Important!

PVC film is sensitive to temperature changes and changes in humidity; over time, it may not perform its role well, and even crack.

For a foil vapor barrier, polyethylene can be used as a base, since the foil prevents the penetration of vapors.

Waterproofing can be done with a simple polyethylene film.

Important!

But polyethylene is suitable only in heated houses with slate or metal roofing.

When insulating the ceiling of a cold roof, you need a film with micro-perforation and a three-layer reinforced coating. The reinforcing layer will prevent the film from sagging and will provide a ventilation gap.

Thus, having studied the properties of insulating materials and the features of their use, we can come to the conclusion that waterproofing and thermal insulation of the cold ceiling of a house on our own is a completely feasible task.

Proper insulation of the attic and attic ceiling

Roof insulation plays a huge role in completion construction work. Having built a house or cottage, you have to think about how to make the building as comfortable, warm and cozy as possible. Regardless of whether there will be living space in the attic or not, the roof must be insulated in any case. This will reduce heat loss and contribute to energy saving.

Do-it-yourself roof insulation

Roof insulation work does not have to be done with the help of a specialist; everything can be done with your own hands. The whole process should start with the selection necessary materials and creating a work plan and scheme. Any roof consists of an outer (roof) and an inner (floor and rafter frame) parts.

All insulation work is carried out only after checking these components, and if necessary they are repaired. Then deleted excess moisture and get rid of dampness and mold.

To prevent bacterial infection wooden structures carry out processing inner surface roofs with an antiseptic, and to protect metal structures from rust, such surfaces are treated with anti-corrosion compounds.

Insulation materials

Modern manufacturers offer a wide range of materials for roof insulation. The most popular are:

  • Mineral wool (fiberglass, stone slabs);
  • Extruded polystyrene foam;
  • Polyurethane foam.

The material you choose is determined by the features of the roof. For example, it is preferable to insulate pitched roofs with fiberglass.

Fiberglass

This material has excellent heat-insulating and sound-proofing properties. Fiberglass is also durable, its service life reaches fifty years, it is fire-resistant and vapor-permeable. And, of course, the price; purchasing such material is a very inexpensive pleasure.

The most popular materials in use are mineral wool and polystyrene foam. This popularity is due to the ease of manipulation with them.

Mineral wool

Depending on the original type of material (stone or glass), mineral wool is divided into two types:

— the fibrous structure of the material, formed by melting small particles of rock, as well as various slags and mixtures obtained in industrial metallurgy, makes the product truly unique.

The material is not afraid high temperatures, and is also quite resistant to aggressive chemicals.


Glass wool- a heat-insulating material containing air fibers that are particularly durable. The product is obtained by melting ordinary glass. Like stone wool, the insulation has high resistance to chemical products and doesn't burn.

The thermal conductivity of glass wool is 0.05 W/m°C at 25°C. During operation, glass wool practically does not shrink, and its fibrous structure, even after a long period of time, remains the same elastic and elastic.

Mineral wool has excellent characteristics in the following indicators:

  • Low thermal conductivity;
  • Excellent sound insulation;
  • Fire resistance, which is very important for roof material;
  • Highly environmentally friendly and durable.

Foam plastic and penoplex

Both insulation materials have a fairly small specific gravity, therefore, their use does not weigh down the roof, and also does not involve the additional use of material insulating from steam, since neither foam plastic nor absorb moisture.

Polyurethane foam

One of modern materials is .

It does not need to be glued or nailed to the surface, but is applied by spraying onto it. This material has excellent adhesion to surfaces and as a result a durable, seamless structure is formed that does not allow cold or moisture to pass through.

Insulating the ceiling in a house with a cold roof

Once the materials have been selected, you can proceed directly to the process of laying the material. The specifics of this process depend on the roof design and the future use of the attic.

If the attic is not intended to be used as a living space, then the insulating material is placed on the attic floor between the joists, and not between the roof rafters. A membrane is laid on top to improve vapor permeability, then it can be covered with any floor covering.

To prevent the formation of “cold bridges,” the insulation should fit as tightly as possible to the joists. To do this, when cutting insulation, its size must be determined according to 1-2 cm. wider than the distance between the joists.

Insulating the attic from the inside

If you decide to equip the attic as a living space, you should insulate the roof with your own hands using a different technology:

  1. Initially laid waterproofing layer, to protect the insulating material from getting wet. To do this, a waterproofing membrane is laid on top of the sheathing and secured with counter-lattice bars;
  2. Then the insulation itself is laid between the rafters. To avoid the formation of gaps, during installation you should follow the same technology as when insulating the ceiling - the insulation should be wider by 1-2 cm.
  3. As a vapor-permeable layer, a vapor barrier film is attached on top of the insulation and overlapped at the joints;
  4. The film is secured on top with bars, which will serve as the basis for the finishing.

How and with what to insulate a flat roof

Insulation flat roof goes a little differently. The beginning of work is the determination of the purpose of the room. The intended use of the attic as a gym or some other place for entertainment suggests that the roof must be really strong to withstand serious loads.

  1. To form a slight roof slope on reinforced concrete slab make a cement screed;
  2. Then, as in the case of a pitched roof, a waterproofing layer is laid;
  3. Upon completion of these works, everything is covered with a layer of thermal insulation material(foam plastic, stone wool, extruded polystyrene foam, etc.), on top of which a layer of fiberglass or geotextile is laid.
  4. And the final stage is the filling of pebbles or a layer of gravel and the subsequent laying of floor or paving slabs.

If there is no living space under the roof, then the vapor barrier layer and insulation are laid in the attic, and the waterproofing layer is placed under the roofing material. And in case of complete non-use of the attic space of a flat roof, insulation is carried out either from the inside or from the outside.

By insulating your roof you will not only get additional square meters, but also reliable protection for the home from severe frosts in winter and sultry heat in summer.