21.04.2018

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Usually the corners are glued to putty, but nails can also be used. For reliability, you can additionally secure the corner with masking tape until it dries.

How to install a paint corner

It would seem that there is nothing easier than leveling the corners in the apartment with the help of a metal painting corner. In fact, this is true, but only for those who have at least once performed this action. What should those who have no idea how to install a painting corner do?

If we talk about prehistory, then everyone who remembers Soviet times is familiar with the phenomenon of uneven corners in an apartment. Moreover, not only the corners of the room itself were uneven, but also the corners of the door and window slopes.

However, that time is in the past and now you can hardly find such a phenomenon anywhere. The alignment of corners has changed and along with it new ones have appeared on the construction market in order to facilitate the repair process itself. One of such brigades of finishers and simply craftsmen who made life easier was painting corner.

So, you started leveling the walls with putty and reached the corners. And then the question arose: how to install these notorious corners? Don't worry! Everything is not as difficult as it seems. The corner is glued to the putty and leveled using a level.

How to attach a paint corner (topic closed)

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Painting corner - questions and answers - poremontu.ru

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How to putty a corner

How to putty walls and their preparation is discussed in previous articles. How to putty a corner Let's look at it separately. Uneven corners will spoil the appearance of the work done to renovate the apartment.

Outside corner

External corners after plastering must be smooth. Smooth corners are obtained when plastering work is done along the “beacons”.

We putty the outer corner at 900 using a perforated corner, a square and a building level (rules). How to putty external corners with rounded, uneven edges.

Let's look at it in more detail and do it beautifully.

We cut the perforated corner to the length of our corner. We apply a level to the corner and look at whether our corner is flat or “filled up”. With an even angle everything is simple perforated corner put on finishing putty.

We smooth out the “littered” corner using several layers of putty. We attach the corner to the starting layer. We look at the building level (rule) to see where we have unevenness.

We apply putty slaps along the length of our corner, at equal distances, where there is correspondingly more piled up. We apply a perforated corner and set it level.

After our beacons have set, we apply putty along the entire length of the corner. We check with a level and make sure that the corner is level; you could have disturbed it when you puttyed it. Once completely dry, sand the corner. Apply finishing putty and prime with penetration primer.

Corners on arches and two-level ceilings are rounded. Such corners are puttied using arched corners. Such corners can be bent and the corner can be given different shapes and are attached to the finishing putty. Basically, such angles are made with and there are no questions about evenness.

Perforated corners are not suitable for rounded or obtuse (beveled) corners. They are puttied without a corner. A thick layer of putty is applied to the corner. Using a building level, draw a line at the corner. We look along the line where we need to grind and where we don’t. We sand so that the line is not erased with sanding paper. After the work done, you will get a perfectly sharp and even outer corner.

Inner corner.

For leveling, tools such as a building level (rule) and a wide spatula are used.

We apply a level to the corner on both sides and check its evenness after plastering. The protrusions that interfere with us in the corners are cut down. If there are depressions, then apply a starting layer of putty and smooth it out as a rule. After drying starting putty, finally level the corner with a wide spatula.

A spatula is also used for corners. The corner is filled with putty and the evenness of the corner is achieved using such a spatula. Many painters do not use it because of the inconvenience of working with it.

How to putty a corner, everything is simple when you know how to do it. To learn how to do anything, you need to do it, and not think that it won’t work out.

If you do not live in a round tower without windows and doors, then your home must have corners - internal and external. And during repairs, you have to decide how to finish them so that they turn out perfectly smooth and protected from mechanical influences.
If the joint between the walls and the ceiling or floor is easy to hide with a plinth/cornice, then the filling of the internal corners between the walls and the external ones formed by window and door slopes, niches and protrusions must be done efficiently. To simplify this task, special perforated corners are used, the purpose and types of which you will learn from this article.

Perforated corners are often called painter's or plaster's corners, as they are used during puttying/plastering to strengthen the corners of the front.
They serve two purposes:

• They reinforce corners, especially external ones, giving them additional strength and resistance to damage. It is no secret that protruding corners are more likely than flat surfaces to be subject to chips, scratches and other mechanical impacts, for example, when carrying large furniture through a doorway.
• They allow you to quickly and easily create a joint between perpendicular surfaces, making it smooth and clear. This, in turn, makes subsequent finishing easier: gluing wallpaper or tiles in even, not “cluttered” corners is easier, and the result is of better quality.

What are the corners?

Materials for production

First of all, these products differ in the type of raw materials from which they are made.
There are three main types:

• Made from galvanized steel. Durable, reliable, corrosion resistant thanks to zinc coating applied on all sides.
  However, prolonged use in a humid environment may cause rust stains.

• Aluminum. Lightweight, durable, non-corrosive. But they are not resistant to close proximity to copper and some other substances.

• PVC (polyvinyl chloride). The price of these products is the lowest, and their advantages are no less than those of metal corners.
  First of all, it is absolute inertness to the effects of moisture and aggressive chemical substances– plastic corners do not corrode, do not rot, and do not deform.

For reference. Every year, PVC products are becoming more and more popular. There are various modifications of plastic perforated corners on sale, including those combined with sickle tape and with an adhesive applied to the inner surface to facilitate installation.

Configurations

The line where two surfaces meet is not always straight. In the manufacture of arches (see), curved multi-level ceilings made from drywall and other structures, it can take very intricate shapes. These corners simply cannot be protected with the products pictured above.
Special arched corners are produced for them. Most often, the raw material for their production is plastic polyvinyl chloride. An arched corner for putty differs from a straight corner in that one of its sides is cut into “petals”, allowing it to be bent in any direction with any radius of curvature.

Curvilinear corners are much more difficult to give a clear shape when finishing, especially if you do not have certain skills in putty and plaster. Arched corners allow you to do this without any problems.

How to install perforated corners

We will tell you in detail how to finish corners with your own hands using the products described.
Let's take one of the most complex options, when it is necessary to “remove” the joints of windows or walls, when plastering which the workers did not bother themselves with maintaining the level.

Note. When finishing corners formed by sheets of plasterboard, such problems usually do not arise: their surface is even and smooth, and the sheets themselves, as a rule, are attached to a frame leveled. In such cases, it is best to use PVC corners with an adhesive inner surface.

So, puttying the corners of walls and slopes begins with the installation of corners, which is carried out in the following sequence:

• Measure the length of each joint and cut the corners to size. Plastic ones are cut with ordinary scissors or a paint knife, metal ones - with metal scissors;

• To avoid thickening due to overlapping corners, their outer side is cut at an angle of 45 degrees;
• Then a building level is applied to each side of the slope to determine the degree of its evenness and “tilt” in one direction or another. You can make marks on the wall so you know where to apply more putty and where to apply less;
• Prepare the required amount of solution and apply it to the slope on both sides, but not in a continuous layer, but at intervals, focusing on the marks made earlier;
• Place the corner on the slope on top of the putty slaps and press lightly into it so that a small part is squeezed out through the holes;
• After removing the squeezed out solution with a spatula, use a level to check the vertical or horizontal position of the corner. Achieve its correct position, pressing harder where it is required;
• Next, the instructions require you to wait a while for the putty to set and fix the corner. After which you can putty the corner, filling it with solution empty seats and leveling adjacent surfaces.

Advice. If the corners and walls are almost even, you can immediately use finishing putty. If they require serious correction, it is better to start with the starting layer and apply the finishing layer as a second layer.

As in the case of a straight plane, ideal smoothness of the angle is achieved by grinding (see). During the grinding process, it is advisable to smooth out and round the corner itself a little - this will facilitate subsequent finishing and make it more resistant to mechanical damage.

Conclusion

Professional finishers can easily cope with the task of leveling corners without any additional equipment. But they also often use perforated corners precisely for the purpose of giving protruding joints greater strength. You can see how they do this in the video in this article. And try to repeat it during repairs. It is not difficult.

In this material we will look at the process of installing a perforated corner. In particular, we will deal with the questions: how to fix the corner, how to level it, how to finish it. For maximum clarity, the article is supplemented with relevant photographs and videos.

First of all, a few words about what it will take to get the job done. So, in addition to the perforated corner, we will need following materials and tools:

• spatula (50 mm);
• spatula (150 mm);
• mixer attachment (for drill);
• poplar (wide brush);
• building level;
• deep penetration primer;
• dry gypsum putty (“start”).

Regarding the perforated corner. In this case, it all depends on the corner you will be finishing. If work is being done to repair an external corner, in a room where there is the greatest likelihood of damage, it is best to use a plastic corner. Such a room, for example, is a corridor.

Of course, the use of a plastic corner is not a mandatory requirement; rather, it is a recommendation. For finishing, you can equally successfully use both metal and plastic corners. Simply, plastic, in comparison with metal, is more advantageous in terms of durability: they do not wrinkle in the event of fairly strong impacts.

Preparatory work

Now that we’ve sorted out the tools and type of corners, we can move on to the preparatory process. It comes down to priming the plane to be repaired and preparing a gypsum solution.

First of all, prepare a solution from the starting solution gypsum putty. By the way, to glue the paint corner, you can use not only the starting putty, but also the finishing putty. You can also use various cement-based adhesives, for example, ceramic tile adhesive.

The solution is prepared as follows: take a certain amount of water into a clean container, add the dry mixture to it and stir everything with a mixer. Important: the solution for installing a perforated corner must be quite thick - much thicker than, for example, for puttingtying walls or gluing foam ceiling tiles (Tiling the ceiling).

So, the mixture is ready, you can start priming. Everything here is simple and quick: using a paint brush, apply primer to the surface to be treated, spreading it evenly. There is no particular point in priming several times - once is enough.

Installation of the perforated corner and its alignment

Using a small spatula, apply a small amount of putty solution to a larger spatula and use it to transfer our glue directly to the corner being repaired. We carry out this work along the entire height of the corner.

Now we lean the perforated corner and gently “press” it. By pressing/pulling certain sections of the corner “by eye” we align its verticality.

Next, take a building level and use it to check the evenness of the installation of the painting corner. If necessary, carefully change its position so as not to damage the corner. Thus, we achieve a perfectly even angle.

Finally, we putty the corner on one side and the other. It is most convenient to do this work after the putty that holds our corner in place has completely dried. You can do this directly during the installation process, the main thing is to do everything as carefully as possible so as not to disturb the correct verticality of the corner.

To ensure that the joint between wall planes has the correct design when leveling, craftsmen often use various plaster corners. Yes, at first glance this detail may seem completely simple to you - it is not so easy to use. If you decide to do this, you must follow a number of rules.

This is exactly what we will talk about in more detail in this material. Let's look at how to choose a plaster corner and how to use it correctly.

Types of corners

It is not difficult to guess that plaster corners today are represented by a variety of different types. Now let's look at it in more detail.

Metal models

When a finisher gets to work, he needs to have the required number of corner pieces on hand. And considering that today the range of such products in retail chains is quite wide, it is better to decide on the model in advance - so that there are no unpleasant surprises later.

Overlays for puttying and plastering on corners, depending on the material, are usually divided into plastic and metal. Let's look at each of the product groups, but first, let's look at the most popular ones.

Metal corners for plaster can be made of different metals:

• Made from galvanized steel, these products are highly durable, but at the same time they weigh quite a lot (when compared with analogues). Moreover, there is a possibility that this corner will rust over time - especially in those areas where the plaster layer is thinning. The metal there is exposed to direct moisture (from the atmosphere)
• Made from aluminum, such products are very durable. They are practically not afraid of corrosion and are very light. But there is one “but” - the mechanical parameters of this lining will be an order of magnitude worse than those of alternative options. Aluminum is simply a soft metal - and everyone knows this.

To prevent the galvanized steel plate from corroding over time, the product must be handled very carefully during installation. Try not to damage the galvanization when attaching the corner to the wall. It’s better to do the cutting with metal scissors (it’s better to avoid the grinder here).

Metal corners may vary in shape:

• Usually the most popular are simple corners - that is, a strip of metal curved at ninety degrees. The thickness of this product is only 0.4 mm. Perforation is applied to the sides of such an overlay - this is done so that the mass of the product becomes even smaller. And thanks to such actions, adhesion to the plaster mortar significantly increases;
• The plaster corner with mesh looks a little different. Such models are selected when wet plastering is performed. In this situation, the corner itself is equipped with a narrow overlay - a steel mesh, the width of which is a couple of cm, is attached to its edges.

The perforated plaster corner is ideal for securing planes. At the same time, your finish becomes more durable - that's a fact.

• Today on the market you can also choose for yourself models of corners that are combined. In this situation, the aluminum or steel corner is equipped with a special polymer mesh (fiberglass is especially popular). Such products have all the advantages of both plastic and metal models plaster corners;
• It’s also nice that the cost of combined plaster overlays is a little higher - but they will also serve you longer;
• The main difficulty in working with metal linings is that such material is susceptible to corrosion, especially due to exposure to alkalis and acids. That is why many craftsmen advise installing them only if the finishing is done with latex, acrylic or plaster.

Plastic models

Let's consider the options which are the most used today:

1. The covers are standard - the design of this element is identical to the metal corner. But instead of steel or aluminum, plastic is chosen for production - it is of fairly high quality. Such overlays are not afraid of corrosion, so if you are plastering rooms where the humidity level is high, they should definitely be used;
2. The main disadvantage of a standard plastic corner is that the thickness of the material is quite large. At the same time, plaster is not usually applied in a thick layer; it rarely happens that the layer is more than 3 mm. And this is quite enough to disguise a plastic product;
3. Arched corners for plaster are used in situations where it is necessary to form the joint of planes on surfaces that are curved. One side of this corner is not made solid - it is segmented. Due to this, the product can always be bent, and the bending radius will be arbitrary;
4. In addition, you can easily find mesh corners for plastic plaster. The mesh in this case is an overhead element. These corners are used to be embedded in a thick layer of plaster. At the same time, the reliability of fixation increases many times over, because the corner will be held not only on the base, but also due to the high adhesion of the mesh part and the solution;
5. It should be noted that this is a model that is not used very often. We are talking about a universal mesh corner for plaster. This is a thin strip of plastic (or even tape) - a strong mesh will suffice. You can bend it at any angle. These overlays are used to form oblique angles - that is, those that are less or more than ninety degrees.

Quite often this model is used when finishing the internal joint of walls. If it were not for such an element, the work here would have to be done without an overlay at all - which is not recommended.

The main advantage of plastic plaster corners is that they are chemically inert. Often such products are placed directly into (which, moreover, has an alkaline reaction). And in general, polymers are not afraid of corrosion - in many ways this makes them very popular (even if we take into account low level strength compared to metal products).

How to use corner pads - let's figure it out

Now let's talk about how to properly use plaster corners (overlays). However, first things first.

Preparing a corner for finishing

So that a plaster corner made of metal or plastic copes one hundred percent with its function (protects the joint of planes from possible damage) – it must be installed correctly.

In fact, such a task is not particularly difficult. But you need to pay attention to certain points:

• First of all, there must be a solid wall under the corner overlay. To do this, you need to check the quality of the surface - if necessary, all loose elements are removed;
• Then, all walls are primed and dust-free, including the corner. First, remove the dust, then apply a primer. This must be done in any situation - so that the plaster layer has good adhesion to the base;
• In cases where the wall joint is severely damaged, leveling is carried out before installing the plaster corner - plaster mortar will help with this work. Of course, due to this approach, the work time will increase, and the finishing will take longer - but it is better to “lose” a couple of days in this way than to get a plane at an angle;
• Next, on the plane they are set plaster beacons. You need to focus directly on them when aligning steel or aluminum corners.

Only when all the preparation work has been completed can you begin to install the plaster overlay.

Fastening the corner

This is not to say that installing a corner on a wall is somehow difficult. Let's look at a very simple instruction:

• Small piles of solution are placed on the surface. 300 mm - this is exactly the optimal pitch;
• The overlay is cut to size - a knife will help you with this (if you are working with plastic models). If the corner is made of metal (aluminum or steel), use metal scissors. It is better to refrain from using a circular saw - corrosion processes will then necessarily be activated where the heating was;
• The corner is installed on the wall, it is pressed into the mortar so that the plaster penetrates the perforation. If there are mesh pads on the edges, they should be immersed in the leveling layer as deeply as possible;
• Using a level and rules, they monitor the correct installation of the lining. If the need arises, the position of the part is adjusted by smooth pressing.

Please note that if you have not applied enough mortar, you will have to remove the overlay and add a leveling mixture. The corner, in any case, must be placed with the beacons on the same level. There is no need to “remove” the plane with plaster alone.

If the finishing layer is thin - The corner can also be mounted on mechanical fasteners.

But at the same time:

1. The overlay is installed at an angle, aligned horizontally and vertically;
2. For fastening, holes are drilled with a hammer drill;
3. Plastic sleeves must be driven into the resulting holes - they are fixed with locking stainless screws;
4. If your wall material allows, you should not use anchors, but self-tapping screws made of stainless steel;
5. Keep in mind: you should not use standardized fasteners here, since if they oxidize, rusty marks may appear - either on your plaster, or even on the finish that will be applied over the plaster layer.

Grouting the joint of planes and leveling

As soon as the mortar on which the corner pad was installed hardens - you can start plastering.

Here everything is done like this:

• As part of the first stage, the wall is leveled - at the same time, the corner is not reached by about 400 mm;
• Then the mortar is placed not so far from the established corner - and using the rule it is smoothed: this way all excess will be removed;
• The above operations are repeated, but this time it is not the rule that is used, but a wide spatula or grater;
• The connecting planes are aligned - the master must ensure that during this work no plastic or metal is exposed;
• To create an inner corner, you can use a special spatula. Its blade has a special shape - therefore, both surfaces can be removed very efficiently: a correct depression will be formed between them.

Watch a video on how to attach plaster corners. Surely, this lesson will help you gather your thoughts before work and understand how and what needs to be done.

Now we need to wait for the plaster to dry - the outer layer must undergo polymerization. And then they start grouting.

It all looks like this:

• The corner is first rubbed on one side, then on the other;
• When moving the grater, the master must ensure that it does not remove material from the edge - after all, in this situation, the occurrence of chips is not excluded. This should not be allowed;
• Using a float and sponge, grout the inner corner. If the plans do not include putty, the plaster can be corrected with regular sandpaper.

Results

The use today of corner overlays for plastering walls significantly facilitates the work of those owners who want to carry out repairs in an apartment or house on their own - without the involvement of professional teams.

Yes, if you have little experience (or none at all), it’s not so easy to design a corner well, so you definitely don’t need to neglect various auxiliary devices. Take action - and everything will definitely work out, experience will come with time and everything will work out perfectly - right the first time!

Tiling does not involve using ceramics alone. The finished appearance and operational reliability also depend on other materials. Tile corners (also called tile layout) are one of them. They mask imperfections, decorate corners and protect tiles from chips, mildew and mold.

Today, they often abandon the use of tile layouts in favor of a more decorative method - grinding corners at 45 degrees. Monolithic installation appropriate when using expensive ceramics; the tile corner in this case may not look very presentable. And yet, tile layouts are still in the lead. Moreover, in some cases you cannot do without them, for example, when facing steps (anti-slip profile) or an apron. On dangerous outer corners in the bathroom, where you can easily slip, it is better to install a plastic corner rather than leaving a sharp corner made of sawn tiles.

Tile corners come in all sorts of colors and various forms. When facing, you may need an external profile for tiles, internal and for stairs. Let's consider each option in more detail.

Quick navigation through the article

External corners

The most popular type. Used when facing external corners. The sizes on sale are mainly 7, 9, 11 mm (with a length of 2.5 m). One side is a groove for tiles, the other serves as decoration and protects the slabs from impacts and chips. The hidden part is perforated for better adhesion of the tile layout and ceramics. Decorative elements are produced from:

• plastic;
• aluminum;
• brass and other materials;

Installation of corners

Tile profiles are installed when one of the two walls forming the outer corner is ready. Sometimes trims (layouts for tiles) are left until the end of the work. This happens under unforeseen circumstances: there were problems with delivery, there was a defect, etc. However, similar situation requires the tiler to have advanced qualifications and more serious calculations. The slightest inaccuracy can lead to refinishing or resignation to flaws.

When moving on to the next wall, a tile layout groove is placed on the back side of the finished wall. The product must match the size of the tile. The tiles will not fit into a corner of a smaller format, and a larger trim will force you to use more glue and will dangle.

If the tile does not fit into the corner, grind it with a grinder reverse side(3-5 cm from the edge).

To start laying the next wall, and the corner for the tiles does not slide, it is attached with tape or tile adhesive is used. The perforated side should be parallel to the tile to allow the perpendicular ceramic to lie tightly and evenly. Be sure to fill the joints with glue - voids deprive the structure of its functional meaning. Without a trained eye, it is better to spend time squeezing out excess mixture than to accept the hollowness.
The video shows the installation of the layout using the example of a difficult place - slopes with a double outer corner:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-9JPxPx2ks

Trimming corners

If the ceiling is suspended and rests on tiles, cut the layouts to match the tiles; do not leave yourself or others the need for further trimming.
The installation of trims in the area of ​​door and window openings (or in similar situations) deserves a separate discussion. To position the elements perpendicularly, you need to cut their edges at an angle of 45 degrees. Do this very carefully, otherwise there will be gaps or profiles for the tiles and will not lie without bends or burrs.

Cut tile layouts with a metal blade or grinder. Better first, since the method involves the possibility of using a miter box. And without this tool it is very difficult to achieve the required angles. In any case, precise trimming is impossible without practice, and it is not as easy as it seems at first glance. Sometimes the geometry involves combinations of trims, for example, horizontal corners for tiles and a vertical one are joined at one point. It takes skill to masterfully juggle meeting the requirements for cladding and installation of profiles.

Corner repair

It happens that you no longer like the layout for the tiles, or maybe the profile for the ceramic tiles was damaged. In such cases, repairs are needed, but how to remove the trim, much less install a new one? This is a tedious task, but doable:

• Carefully, so as not to damage the tile, cut off the old outside corner ok for tiles;
• prepare a new one;
• trim the back of the trim;
• if necessary, level the area under the profile without touching the space under the tile;
• use liquid nails or silicone to glue the layout;

Inner corners

Unlike external ones, these are not very common. To decorate the outer corners, you need to trim the tiles or decorate them with profiles. Internal ones are not necessary, since without them the interior does not suffer at all. Still, a certain percentage of people feel sympathy for them, so let’s consider them.

They are a slightly more complex structure consisting of:

• groove;
• perforated rib;
• facial concave part;

As in the previous case, install the layout under the tiles, covering one of the walls. In fact, it’s easier to cut off the back and glue the corners with silicone. This makes the installation process easier:

• easier to glue;
• work can be done after finishing the cladding;

Using both types of corners, before grouting the joints, you need to clear the glue from the joints between the profiles and the tiles. If the profile is plastic, be careful not to scratch it or cut off the layer.
Design options for internal corners:

Corners for steps

The use of profiles on stairs is controversial. The question concerns the aesthetics and durability of the cladding. There are two types of layouts on the steps:

• ordinary - similar to wall-mounted;
• invoices;

The former do not provide much functionality and serve decorative purposes. However, their use undermines the solidity of the structure; the risers end up at a half-centimeter distance from the covering slabs. On the one hand, tile layouts provide a certain protection for joints, but on the other hand, they result in a reduction in the service life of the stairs. They allow the possibility of accumulation of water, which, due to temperature fluctuations, gradually destroys the integrity of the steps.

Overlay profiles provide slip resistance and, unlike simple ones, are often necessary. It is important to understand the nuance of operation: water accumulating near the corners negatively affects the cladding. To avoid this, it is not recommended to install as a continuous sheet. Make drainage spaces between tile layouts, and the staircase will last much longer.

When installing on steps we are talking about metal materials, no plastic.

Other corners

Profiles are required when constructing thresholds and at the joints of dissimilar materials. There are many variations; as a rule, they are mounted mechanically - using fasteners. Installation involves the edges of the tiles, so be careful to avoid chipping the tiles.

Sometimes you need layouts for tiles when installing a low winding step. For such cases, there are corners with a flat working part and a ridged back side, which allows you to smoothly bend the profile. It is important not to violate the boundary of a “painless” bend.

We looked at options for corners for tiles. Despite their collective-farm appearance, you still shouldn’t refuse them in hazardous areas and inexpensive repairs.

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It is better to trust the construction of an arch in a house to professionals - this is an indisputable truth, proven more than once by the facts of collapse homemade designs, their curvature, fragility. It is naive to rely on your own talent and try to make an arch with your own hands using instructions on the Internet. In the worst case, people may get hurt. You first need to calculate the arch in the apartment, which presupposes knowledge of basic formulas and rules. Yes, and the reference one appearance it is unlikely to be achieved.

The beauty of an arch depends on many factors. One of them is the quality of corner alignment. To prevent even the slightest deviation from the norm when making the central element of the interior, special corners are used. This is the name for an auxiliary working tool and consumable that will allow you to make the corners very even and without spending a lot of effort on it.

Among self-taught craftsmen, there is an opinion that to form an even arch it is permissible to use any decorative elements. This is not entirely correct; when decorating arches, special devices with certain dimensions are used, which are intended only for finishing structures with indirect lines.

Why are arched corners needed?

An arch of any shape is always complex design. Its edges are in the most vulnerable place, and if they are not strengthened, over time the corners will begin to crumble. The destruction process can be prevented at the installation stage, and special corners will help with this. With their help, workers strengthen the edges, this will prevent deformation, abrasion of paint or other coating, and shedding of putty.

Stores sell arched corners of standard sizes 20 by 10 mm. For narrow doorways, it is better to use decorative elements 5 mm wide, which are also not in short supply.

Corners for arches have a dual purpose: in addition to aligning the edges, they have an aesthetic function and very often help those who decide to install the arch in the doorway themselves.

Calculation of the number of corners

Correct calculation is necessary to cover the edges of the arched surface along the entire length. To do this, you need to measure their total length and add about 10% to the result in case of an erroneous cut.

The difficulty lies in the need to beautifully arrange the corners on a curved surface. In some places they will have to be leveled, bent and trimmed - painstaking work, although at first glance it seems simple.

The length of one corner is 2.7 m. The range includes three types of decorative elements:

• Colored;
• White;
• Textured, imitating wood surfaces of different colors and patterns.

Perforated corners

Unusual looking corners. With their help, it is possible to easily and quickly eliminate irregularities on the edges and at the same time protect them in the future from chips, shedding, and destruction. They go on sale in white and have perforations along the entire length. One edge of the corner is smooth, the opposite is made in the shape of petals. This design was not chosen to save material - it allows you to bend the corners in the right places without fear of accidental creasing or cracking.

Arched corners, despite their simplicity, are multifunctional and are used for other purposes. They are suitable for finishing suspended ceilings, interior partitions from plasterboard. It doesn't matter on what front repair work you use them - they perform a load-bearing function, because they are installed on the base of the arch, and after installation they require the application of plaster and a finishing layer. Corners are made from PVC or metal, each length no more than 3 m.

The third type of arched corners on the market are cork elements. They are used exclusively in decorative purposes. They are not as durable as their metal and plastic counterparts, so they are not in demand.

How to install corners

The corners are attached to the surface using glue, self-tapping screws or special nails without heads. The most common method is adhesive: it is much easier to secure the corners to the surface using the so-called liquid nails or special sealant. Before choosing a mounting method, make sure that the adhesive option is acceptable in your case. You will have to replace the adhesive compounds with mechanical methods fastening if the glue contains a chemically active reagent that has a detrimental effect on plastic or metal. Some compounds are so aggressive that they can cause deformation of the corner. As a result, instead of a perfectly smooth edge, you will get an unpleasant result.

If out of all the options you still choose adhesive, try to purchase a “Decor” class product. It goes on sale in a wide range and does not harm plastic elements.

Before starting work, take the trouble to prepare the surface: in order to achieve reliable adhesion of the corners to the base, you need the surfaces to be clean, free of dirt and dust. If you are not sure that there are no particles of fat in the corners, walk through inside solvent.

The time has come for priming and impregnation - they are used to treat the surface of the arch and leave to dry for about half an hour. Start gluing the corners. Important point– under no circumstances try to install decorative elements on top of the wallpaper if you do not want to spoil both. Even if you initially manage to secure the corners, they will not last long, so remove all excess materials, only then proceed to finishing.

It's hard to imagine modern renovation, which did not use tiles. And the space of a bathroom, even a small one, with a shower stall or a full-fledged bathtub, is unlikely to be able to fully function without high-quality tiles. Tile corners give a room a unique finished look.

Laying tiles correctly is not an easy task; they usually use the services of specialists, but having even a little construction skill and great desire will help you easily cope with this task.

Not everything always depends on the skill of the craftsman or the quality of the tile, because it is not for nothing that they say that it is the retinue that makes the king. In this case it is Additional materials, helping to give an excellent appearance and additional guarantees to your repair. It is worth considering that sometimes even the presence of a small part inbathroom on the corners can fundamentally affect the interior of the room.

We will talk about the corners that are used when laying tiles in the bathroom. This profile is needed for aesthetic and high-quality joining of tiles at external and internal corners. There are, of course, other ways of joining tiles at external corners (cutting tiles at an angle of 45 degrees, regular joining and grouting), but they are not so effective and beautiful.

Types of corners for tiles: external and internal

6 reasons to use corners when laying tiles

1. It simplifies the process of laying tiles at corners, because when using such fittings there is no need to trim each tile at the joints in the corner area.
2. Connecting tiles at the outer and inner corners involves reducing its thickness, since each tile needs to be cut at 45 degrees (as in the photo). This negatively affects the service life of such a product in the future, since along the edges
   the tile will be small in thickness.
3. Cut tiles at the outer corner are fraught with the potential for bruises not only for children, but also for adults. If you consider that the floor in the bathroom can be slippery due to high humidity, then the risks increase even more, because even a small mistake is enough and you can easily get injured. An external corner with an installed PVC profile partially eliminates this issue.
4. When installing a profile in a bathroom, the waterproofing properties of the tile are significantly enhanced, since moisture does not get into the seams between the tiles and chips and mold do not appear.
5. The strength of the wall increases, because the corner acts as connecting link between rows of tiles.
6. With the use of such a reinforcing and decorative element, the aesthetic design of the bathroom benefits.

Types of corner fittings

To decorate the joints between the wall and the bathtub or shower stall, use a self-adhesive border, which also protects the seams well from fungus and mold.

Corner trim can be internal or external. Internal corners are concave-shaped products designed for neat joints of internal corners. This device perfectly protects against fungus, mold, and aggressive detergents.

Important: when choosing a corner for a tile that has discrepancies in color scheme(for example, the part of the wall at the top is light, at the bottom is a little darker), do not be put off by the color of the wall. Fittings in a neutral or metallic color will look more aesthetically pleasing.

Aluminum corner	Thanks to reliability and neutral color can well connect together those parts of the corner area where tiles of two or three tones are used, and where a colored plastic corner cannot cope. Also, the color of the aluminum fittings goes well with the metal elements of the shower stall.
PVC corner	The plastic (PVC) corner (pictured) is made of PVC profile, the color range is the widest. This material is characterized by lightness, flexibility, and water resistance. Due to the small mass of PVC products, they can be glued to the joint at the joint. silicone sealant even after laying the tiles. They are also indispensable when installing a shower stall.
Ceramic corner	A ceramic corner has the same functions as corners made of other materials: ceramic corner masking of seams, waterproofing, surface decoration. A distinctive feature of such fittings is that the manufacturer can apply an imitation of the pattern that is present on the main tile cloth to the ceramic corner. The ceramic corner is not very inexpensive and usually comes as part of a certain tile collection (pictured).
Metal corners	Bathroom corners made of metal tiles are durable and reliable. metal corner for tiles To perform their function efficiently, they must be perfectly level, since even a slight distortion will entail a disruption in the finishing masonry. They are made from stainless metal. Such bathroom corners are painted in golden or silver tones, which often matches the color of the shower stall. You can often find a chrome or nickel plated surface of such products.
Accessories for decoration	This profile is made from PVC of different color palette, designed to hide the seam and significantly improve the tiled wall, can be self-adhesive. They can be used to finish the joints between the shower stall and the wall. It is also rational to use it in places where the immovable part of the screen from the shower stall and the sides of the tray or bathtub are attached.

External corners provide additional reliability of the corner protruding part at the joint and its aesthetics. As for the material, the corner can be plastic (PVC), metal, ceramic. The consumer chooses exactly the type that is suitable at this stage of repair work.

Tip: choose a corner, either plastic or ceramic, a little thicker than the tiles. The difference should be about 2-3 mm. If the difference is too small, the tile will not be able to fit into the corner.

How to install an outer corner

To install fittings for external corner structures, you must adhere to the following order:

1. Cut the required length of the external profile for the bathroom, attach it to the corner of the wall (temporarily).
2. Insert the tiles into the grooves on both sides, try them on, mark them and put everything aside.
3. Apply glue to the corner area, “plant” the profile on it, and make sure it matches the mark.
4. Using a notched trowel, apply and spread the adhesive on the tile, insert it into the groove of the corner, and press it with the profile to the wall.
5. Do the same with the second tile (on the other side of the corner).
6. Clean the outer surfaces of the mortar and wipe the tiles dry.
7. Strengthen both laid tiles with a corner, be it plastic, metal or ceramic, using masking tape(until the glue dries). This will take about a day.

Installation of internal profile

In order to beautifully decorate the inner corner of the bathroom, use the inner corner. For his high-quality installation proceed in the following order:

1. Buy a profile whose size is larger than the thickness of the tile.
2. Move in the direction of the inner corner while laying tiles.
3. Apply glue to the tile that will be joined to another in the corner area.
4. Cover by required quantity glue the wall, install the internal profile.
5. Insert the tile into the groove, glue it, and to maintain the distance from the previous one, wedge the seam.
6. Proceed by analogy with the tiles on the other side of the inner corner.
7. Carry out installation required quantity rows. Decorate the top row with a finishing profile (if necessary).
8. After a day, treat the seams with decorative.

Whatever corner you choose: PVC, ceramic, metal - it will still be able to bring the feeling of an expensive, high-quality renovation to the bathroom interior.

Pipe angles are used to connect pipelines at a certain fixed angle. The geometric configuration of the mounting unit is selected depending on the layout of the room and the specific location where two sections of pipe need to be joined. Angles are an indispensable type of fittings, without which it will not be possible to plan the installation of utility networks inside buildings. In this article we will talk about what types of connecting elements for pipes are and about the various methods of installing them.

Why do you need a pipe corner?

Let's try to understand the specifics of using pipe angles. Why use such a connection when you can bend the pipe yourself at the required angle? There are the following reasons for this:

During installation, it is sometimes necessary to rotate the pipe with a minimum radius. Perhaps only corrugated stainless pipe suitable for bending with a radius equal to its diameter.

The external aesthetics of the connection is also important. It is very difficult to bend a pipe without using a special tool so that it also looks beautiful. On the contrary, two straight segments joined using a corner will look much neater.

By bending the pipe (without using angles), you reduce its internal diameter. Accordingly, its throughput decreases.

Often, instead of a factory angle for a steel pipe, a so-called bend is used during installation. This is a small piece of pipe bent on a special machine at a certain angle. It is installed at the junction of two pipes and welded to them.

In addition to the right angle design, fittings are also manufactured with other bending values: 15, 30, 45, 60 degrees. The structure assembled using such elements has increased throughput. When using straight pipe fittings, turbulence increases at the installation sites and silt deposits accumulate.

We figured out the main purpose of angles for connecting pipes, and considered the possibility of using elements with different degrees of bending. Now we will find out what types of fittings are used in the installation of various engineering systems, and in what situations it is preferable to use one or another corner element.

What angles for heating pipes and pipelines of other systems are available for sale?

1) Corners for metal pipes

• Angle with thread for pipes

Since the beginning of the 20th century, these connecting elements have been used in the assembly of water supply and heating systems. They continue to be used to this day.

Specialists who dismantled heating systems in Stalinist high-rise buildings, where cast iron corners were used to assemble assemblies from galvanized pipes, were surprised by the fact that even after half a century of operation, the threaded connection and the connecting elements themselves were in perfect condition. This suggests that, despite the current unpopularity of steel fittings and pipes (they are being forced out of the market by polypropylene products), systems assembled on their basis are very reliable and durable.

What types of connecting angles for metal pipes are there? As a rule, these are fittings with internal, external or combined threads (both types at different ends of the part). There are also elements with transitional diameters for mounting two pipes of different sections.

The corner with a threaded connection is made of the following materials:

Cast iron. Perhaps the most wear-resistant material, not afraid of long-term use. It is characterized by rather thick walls, compensating for the fragility of the material. Such fittings can be easily unscrewed from a steel pipe and do not stick to it even during long-term use of several decades.

Brass V pure form and chrome elements. These fittings are characterized by thinner walls, which reduce the strength of the connecting unit. For this reason, when installing brass parts, it is not recommended to apply excessive force to them.

Black steel. The two main negative properties of this material are susceptibility to corrosion and thread sticking. Positive side- Very good level strength. Steel fittings are successfully used in water pressure systems with high pressure.

Stainless steel. The same high-strength connecting elements, which do not have the negative properties of products made of black steel. The price of these fittings is very high.

Silumin. Cheap Chinese products made from powdered metal. They are characterized by extremely low cost and almost complete lack of strength. Avoid using them, as most of these fittings become unusable already at the installation stage.

It is also worth noting that in addition to the listed materials for the manufacture of fittings, there are also copper pipes and corners for them made of the same metal. However, the price of copper pipes and angles is very high. Also, in addition to metal pipes with a round profile, there are products with a cross-section of a different configuration. The angle for profile pipes is used in the same way as connections and other fittings in the case of structures with a standard round cross-section.

Features of using angles for metal pipes with threaded connections:

The process of cutting threads on metal pipes for these fittings is quite complicated. In addition, the length of the pipes must be selected very carefully, and the number of threads must be accurately taken into account. A “pull” connection is unacceptable, and with a high degree of probability the corner will be damaged during such installation.

Threaded connections of plumbing and heating systems require additional sealing. Screw onto the thread before final installation special seal. Winding is carried out along the thread. This sealing can be done using sanitary flax with paint, or using a polymer sealing thread.

Please note that FUM tape is not best sealant for threaded connection. If, for example, you need to adjust the valve, placing it in a convenient position, and at the same time you allow the slightest reverse movement along the thread, then the connection is guaranteed to lose its tightness.

• Compression fittings

Compression angles for metal pipes are used less often than classic threaded angles, but they have their own specific niche of application:

Problematic access to the pipe does not allow threading on it. It is rarely justified to destroy a section of a wall or ceiling in order to create one threaded connection.

The pipes used are thin-walled, and threading them may render them unsuitable for further use in a pressurized system.

The pipe section has undergone significant corrosion and cannot be replaced. In this case, the only way out is compression fitting. If you try to create a threaded connection on rusty pipe, then it will most likely collapse.

Let's try to understand how such fittings are designed. The brass or plastic body of the element is equipped with a silicone or rubber o-ring inside. A steel pipe is inserted into the corner, clamped with a fixing nut, while the sealing ring inside the fitting tightly grips the surface of the pipe. It is eventually secured mechanically, creating a reliable hermetic connection.

Features of using compression corners:

A compression assembly, unlike a threaded one, can suffer from an accidental blow to the opposite direction of the connection or from a strong jerk.

Before installation, the surface of the pipe must be thoroughly cleaned of rust, paint residues, and uneven surfaces must be removed, otherwise the tightness of the assembly cannot be ensured.

2) Angles for polypropylene pipes

Internal diameter of corners for polypropylene products exceeds the size of the pipe itself. Installation of such parts of the structure occurs by strongly heating two elements with a special soldering iron and then soldering them to each other. After 15 seconds, after the polypropylene has cooled, a reliable monolithic connection is obtained.

Angles for plastic pipes are molded with the smoothest inner surface possible to ensure a reliable solder joint. There is nothing complicated about them, since they are a simple corner polymer element.

However, there are also specialized corner fittings:

Tees and crosses with leads made at different angles are used to connect several backbone networks.

Angles for PVC pipes can be made with several rotation angles: 90, 45 and 30 degrees.

The diameter of the angle outlet can be equal to the diameter of the supply pipe. Sometimes it is necessary to connect a pipe using a coupling or to turn the main line at another corner.

Connecting elements are manufactured with different internal diameters to provide a convenient transition from one size pipe to another.

The angle outlet can be made of brass for a threaded connection. This fitting is necessary when installing a steel riser with ready-made polypropylene wiring.

Angle combined with a throttle or valve. The throttle can be supplemented with an American fitting - a special fitting designed to connect the angle with an aluminum radiator.

Features of polypropylene corners:

A connection made according to all the rules is a monolith and is no different from a solid pipe. This allows such a structure to be laid in a screed or groove without fear that the joined area will subsequently lose its tightness.

Unreinforced polypropylene pipes have a very high coefficient of expansion, so when you hide the wiring in a groove, keep in mind that there should be at least 5–10 mm of free space from the outer edge of the fitting to the stop in the groove.

It is important to know that when welding polypropylene pipes reinforced with aluminum foil, do not forget to strip the end of the pipe of metal. The remaining particles can negatively affect the tightness of the connection.

To perform stripping, special tools are used, equipped with several cutting edges inside the nozzle: trimmer or shaver. The choice depends on how the reinforcement layer is positioned.

3) Corners for cross-linked polyethylene

The material of the pipes is cross-linked polyethylene, which differs from the usual one and has the following properties:

Significant mechanical strength;

Increased melting point (compared to conventional polyethylene);

High level of flexibility and molecular memory.

It is the molecular memory of this material that helps to produce a reliable, hermetically sealed connection of pipes using fittings. A brass or plastic corner for mounting a HDPE pipe is a regular fitting and a plastic ring.

Instructions for connecting a pipe with a fitting:

The plastic ring is first placed on the pipe and moved away from its edge.

An expander must be inserted into the inner diameter of the pipe - a tool specifically designed for making connections to HDPE pipes. The expander plunges into the pipe in several movements, stretching its end.

The stretched end of the pipe is put on the fitting. The molecular memory of the material forces the pipe to take its previous position, due to which the fitting is tightly pressed against the edges of the pipe after some time.

A retaining ring additionally secures the end of the pipe.

Angles for cross-linked polyethylene (fitting with a locking ring) come in several diameters and are made in various combinations similar to the compression fittings described above.

Features of corners for mounting cross-linked polyethylene pipes:

The resulting connection is very strong and practically inseparable. If it becomes necessary to disconnect the pipe from the fitting, then a small section of it is simply cut off, and then, by displacing the locking ring, the polyethylene is gradually cut off from the fitting.

The pipes are sold in coils up to 500 m long. They are not only durable, but also very flexible, which is why they are often used for installing heated floors and for collecting water distribution.

The disadvantage of these pipes is not their properties, but the price of the expander used to make the connections. The cost of such a tool starts from 15 thousand rubles. If necessary, it is easier to rent a device.

3) Angle for metal-plastic pipes

• Compression corners

A simple and reliable corner fitting is used in places where you need to turn the main pipe or change its direction. The main parts of such a connection are a fitting, rubber O-rings, union nut and a split ring. This pipe corner can be made of regular or chrome-plated brass.

To connect the corner to the pipe, you need:

Straighten the section of pipe required for installation.

Treat the inner surface of the pipe by chamfering.

Install the union nut and split ring

Insert the fitting into the end of the pipe all the way. Try to do this so that rubber sealing rings are placed between the pipe and the fitting.

Tighten the nut on the fitting until it stops.

It is necessary to tighten moderately, avoiding excessive force. As the nut is tightened, the split ring will gradually compress and ultimately form a reliable sealed connection.

At this stage, you can switch to other pipe diameters, threaded connections, etc.

You will need a simple basic set of tools to install the pipeline using these fittings. This scheme should not be used when assembling a hot water supply and heating system. As it cools and heats up again, the connection loses its tightness due to the displacement of the rubber sealing rings in it. However, the leak is eliminated by re-tightening the union nut.

• Press fittings

Connections made using press fittings do not have the negative characteristics inherent in compression elements. The split ring and union nut are not used here, and instead the unit is secured by a wide retaining ring. This type fittings are used for installation of heating and hot water supply without restrictions, however, special tools are required for its implementation.

4) Angle for sewer pipe

The fitting for connecting sewer lines is a pipe angle of 90, 45 degrees with an extension at one of the ends.

To ensure the tightness of cast iron units, they are minted, then the remaining gap between the expansion and the pipe is clogged with oiled cable and filled with sulfur or cement.

Docking made in this way does not tolerate mutual displacement of the elements, since the tightness is easily broken. In addition, to perform a connection using the embossing method, even a specialist needs to spend 20–30 minutes, and carrying out this procedure from the side of the wall is an even more difficult task.

But cast iron parts are becoming a thing of the past, and they are being replaced by fittings and sewer pipes PVC. For installation of structures, simple angles for plastic pipes are used. Their price is very low, working with them is a pleasure. The connection occurs by inserting the pipe into the fitting with some force. The rubber O-ring, which is located at the wide end of the angle, ensures a reliable seal. Installation is very fast. Once the pipe and fitting are connected, you can proceed to the next unit.

During operation, the rubber ring may harden and the seal of the joint will be compromised. To avoid this unpleasant incident, when assembling the pipeline, the parts are additionally coated with silicone-based sealant.

PVC fittings for sewerage are not much different in shape and installation options from those described earlier. The same tees, adapters, combinations, etc. are used, and the rubber sealing ring ensures reliable tightness of the connection.

5) Swivel corner fittings

This fitting requires separate consideration. Let's figure out what it is.

This is a complex connecting element used in high-pressure systems where mobility of the installed pipeline components is important (or cannot be avoided).

Examples of such movable structures are given below:

Drives powered by hydraulics. A simple example is a hydraulic cylinder, which is used to raise the blade of a motor grader and connect it to high-pressure hoses.

A fire hose that unwinds without kinks in any direction from the point of attachment on the shield.

Familiar refueling nozzles at gas stations.

The hoses in the car wash into which water is supplied are also movably connected.

The method by which the moving assembly is sealed is not new. In its simplest form, it is an oil seal with oil or graphite packing. In this way, to this day, the shafts of the booster pump are sealed during cold water supply.

However, the seals wear out quickly, and this is a significant problem. Pumps, plug and screw valves, as well as other devices require periodic packing of the connection.

Modern swivel fittings are made from much more wear-resistant materials. A simple example of using such a unit under low load conditions is a regular ball valve. Sealing of the moving element in it is ensured through the use of a seal made of wear-resistant plastic with a low coefficient of friction.

Fittings used in high-pressure networks have a rolling bearing, due to which the sealing plastic wears out much less.

Where to buy a pipe corner

At first glance, the answer seems obvious - everywhere. However, not everything is so simple, because you need to understand that among the wide range of similar products presented on today’s market, there are a lot of offers to buy pipe angles not High Quality.

The issue often comes down to price. However, it is still necessary to identify the characteristics of high-quality corner fittings.

First of all, you should forget about labels and GOST standards, since today the world is full of counterfeit products. The main criterion is how suitable the angles are for the pipes.

In this regard, the recommendation is obvious - you need to choose products so that your system (heating, sewerage) is from the same manufacturer. Moreover, it is advisable to purchase them together, as a set, at once, and not to purchase additionally later.

Actually, this will be the main guarantee of quality and reliability.

Speaking of guarantees. You should purchase goods only from trusted stores, from sellers who are actually suppliers of genuine manufacturers.

However, it is not at all necessary to look for manufacturers of pipe angles yourself, because we have done it for you. We present to your attention the SantekhStandard company, which specializes in the sale of such products. Our assortment contains only those products that are approved the best professionals companies and passed GOST R.

In the company's catalog you can find any angles for pipes that are produced in Russia.

In addition to connecting elements, the catalog presents an assortment of only those products that are guaranteed to fit together. Available for sale components for polypropylene pipes, shower hoses, fittings, sealing materials and much more. When purchasing plumbing fixtures and products for sewerage and heating systems from SantechStandard, you don’t have to worry about the quality and compatibility of the purchased products.

SantekhStandard specialists are ready to help both individuals and companies choose plumbing fixtures. You just need to contact us by phone:

Any repair involving ceramic tiles involves the use of special devices that allow you to quickly cope with the joining of the ends of the elements. Tile corners are quite simple and easy to use; they significantly speed up the process of installing tiles.

Using such parts, they achieve evenness of the coating at the joints tiles. In addition, they provide camouflage of defects in the ceramic itself that could arise during trimming. The corners have different sizes, can reach up to 2.5 m in length. Such elements make the coating more perfect and the room more stylish.

What is this article about?

Types of corner elements

In accordance with the type of joint being processed, the use of the corner will be determined specific type. For example, quite often the external joint of a ceramic coating experiences mechanical damage. For this reason, it needs strengthening. Having better strength and resistance at the corner, the tiles can more easily cope with the resulting loads that are inevitable in a residential area. It is also important to note the safety of operating closed traumatic joints. This is especially true for those who have small family members living in the house. This way they will not be threatened by the sharp edges of the ceramics, which they protected in advance.

Sometimes corners are called by another term - trims. This name for construction parts can be seen when describing the products of some brands.

Regardless of the name, all corners for ceramic cladding are divided into types according to the type of material and purpose (for internal or external joints). In addition, there is a difference between parts intended for vertical and horizontal installation.

Need for use

Some do not see much point in installing tiled corners, since they do not fully understand the meaning of their use. Therefore, it is extremely important to understand this issue. The obviousness and benefit of using corner pieces for tiles lies in the following reasons:

1. For masking inaccuracies of tile ends cut at 45 degrees. After installing the corner profiles, the need for cutting down the tiles completely disappears;
2. The presence in the corner structure of a special groove for inserting tile elements allows you to hide irregularities and makes the joint neat and beautiful;
3. This decorative element adds elegance to the ceramic canvas. For example, a corner chosen to be a darker tone, combined with tiles of a slightly lighter shade is an excellent design move;
4. An important role is played by corner fastening elements in rooms with a complex layout, with a large number of turns and joints. Corner profile greatly facilitates the finishing of such premises and makes it possible to tile complex surfaces.

Choosing the right option

The choice of a suitable product is based on the thickness of the tile itself. Similar building elements are available for sale under numbers from 6 to 12. Each designation indicates the distance from the edge of the corner to the base.

The recommendations of experts boil down to the fact that the choice of trim should be carried out according to this rule - its size should exceed the thickness of the tile by 1 mm. For example, if tiles 8 mm thick are purchased as cladding, then for corner processing of the coating you need to purchase a “nine” corner profile (that is, size 9 mm).

Before going to the store, you need to decide on the number and type of elements needed for subsequent repair work. Moreover, the work can be done using tiles different thicknesses, what you should consider when buying trims.

The number of corner profiles is calculated based on the dimensions of the product and the sum of the lengths of the external joints to be processed.

The choice of trims is also carried out according to the required color. In specialized stores, the range of profiles in different colors is very wide. Which is quite good, especially when using colored ceramic tiles. Therefore, it would be a good idea to take a ceramic sample of the coating with you before going to the store so that you can more accurately determine the color. Precisely because of the need for combined color design Experts recommend purchasing a corner profile together with tiles.

Classification of products by type of material

Tile corners can be made from several materials, which is the basis for dividing them into several types on this basis.

1. Plastic. These types of elements are made from PVC profiles. The main advantages are the lightness and elasticity of the products. They are easy to use and moisture resistant. You should select samples that do not bend when laying, otherwise the entire tile fabric will be damaged. They strengthen, insulate, and decorate the finish;
2. Metal. When using heavy, large rectangular tiles, metal corners are the most successful solution. Their reliability determines their ability to withstand the loads of heavy elements. They are demanding on the evenness of the coating, as they are difficult to bend. Therefore, before laying, they are checked for evenness, and if deviations are detected, they are eliminated. This is done by simply pressing on the surface at the point of curvature with a general sagging of the material.

Such products are made of brass or of stainless steel. They are complemented with a chrome or nickel coating on top and can be painted in silver, gold and other shades.

1. Aluminum. These are lightweight, durable and simple, relatively cheap analogues. They are easy to match to the coating design. The stores offer a wide range of products;
2. Ceramic. Their functions are similar to those that distinguish aluminum products. Outwardly they may look like an imitation of a pattern from a certain collection. There are options that reproduce the design of the tiles themselves.

Design Features

The use of corner elements requires awareness of their design characteristics.

Based on the type of construction, corner elements are divided into 3 types:

• soft;
• semi-rigid;
• hard.

The rigid type includes aluminum or metal. In the unpainted version they are presented in gray tones. Their price is higher than that of plastic ones, which is due to the higher cost of raw materials.

Semi-rigid are PVC products. They have some flexibility. The common shade is white. Although they come in any color design. A rare exception is black products.

Soft versions have a PVC base and silicone edges. Their convenience suggests successful use on smooth and textured tiled surfaces. Available in a wide range of colors. Minus - more expensive in comparison with analogues. However, their price is lower than for rigid ones, but higher than for semi-rigid ones.

Installation of corner structures

Until now, the opinions of tile specialists differ regarding what needs to be done first - laying a ceramic coating or installing an angle profile. Some of them first try to fix the trims, adjusting the latter in level according to horizontal and vertical. And only then do they move on to laying the tiles and trimming its joining parts.

Others do it differently - first they lay ceramic tiles on the surface to be tiled. And the corners are placed on top of the finished ceramic canvas. This option is technically considered simpler. However, it is important to observe this nuance - carefully monitor the correct fixation of the trims. Despite this, a better and more accurate coating is created when approaching the initial fastening of the corner structure.

Experts' recommendations boil down to careful marking and sawing of the joints of tile elements to ensure clear compatibility in difficult areas of corners. The degree of quality of this work will form the overall impression of the entire renovation in the room.

The use of additional devices plays an important role here. For example, to mark angles of 45 degrees, use a universal or school triangle. For accurate calculations, all the school knowledge in mathematics, especially geometry, will be useful. When installing tiles, always check the accuracy of the trim location. If its position is lost, the errors are corrected immediately. Only a responsible approach to business can achieve good results from tiling work.

After the installation is completed, after waiting for the glue to dry completely (which takes about a day), the work is checked for any defects. Which are immediately eliminated.

Such an insignificant detail in the entire installation and tiling process, like an external metal corner for tiles, is in fact an important component that allows solving many problems of residents in the future.