Main tool home radio amateur - soldering iron. Unlike other devices, it cannot simply be placed on a table (workbench) while working. Why? Right! He is hot. Therefore, you will need a special stand.
There are a lot of different devices on sale, from a simple holder to a whole complex called a soldering station.
In most cases, a soldering iron is needed to perform urgent tasks. repair work. If you are not a professional “homemade” tool, the instrument usually gathers dust in a box on the balcony, appearing once or twice a year. In such cases, many people use the first object they come across as a stand.
However, if you put in just a little effort, a DIY soldering iron stand will look no worse than a factory one. Especially if you regularly make electrical circuits.
Minimum required for stand
- Stable base. Made from a material that conducts heat poorly or equipped with legs
- Soldering iron supports
- Container for rosin (flux).
Additional options"
- Tinning area
- Solder container
- Tip cleaning device
- power regulator (can be of two types: smooth adjustment, or stepwise limitation for the time of a break in work).
Leafing through old magazines
In old Radio magazines you can find drawings on how to make a stand with an economical load switch.
- As a base (1), a board with a selected middle is used, or a U-shaped structure made from a strip of plywood and two bars along the long edges
- Under the surface there is a relay contact group for 220 volts (2,4,5) with large current-collecting pads. The connection circuit transfers power either directly or through a diode. The radio element “cuts off” the halves of the half-cycle of an alternating voltage of 220 volts, reducing it to a value of 110
- Through the rod (6), the spring-loaded (7) button (8) presses the contacts when the soldering iron lies on the stand. Electricity consumption is half as much, while the soldering iron almost instantly heats up to full power. The rod is attached to the console (9)
- The tool itself is located on brackets (3) and (10)
- At the rear there is a soldering iron socket connected to the relay output contacts. The power supply wire is connected to the input
- Between the posts, a tin can was usually nailed shoe polish or Vaseline, for storing rosin
The design is simple, but convenient and effective. If you don’t want any hassles with contacts, we’ll make a simple functional stand. Again from the experience of Soviet radio amateurs.
- Take a piece of plywood or chipboard from old furniture. Cut out a rectangle and process it
- From a piece of galvanized steel we cut out a palm-sized piece for a dovetail-type support.
- We bend the plate and get the finished element. By the way, such a detail can already be used as a primitive stand
- To hold the coil of solder, screw a steel pin into the base.
- The third element is a universal trough. Can be used as a tinning table or rosin storage. At this point the design is ready.
Third hand - work in comfort
During suspended soldering, it becomes necessary to hold two parts and a soldering iron at the same time. This is where the term “third hand” comes from. The next review is a homemade stand with such a device. The materials and tools that will be needed for manufacturing are shown in the photo:
Factory-made parts - crocodile clips, decorative candles (or rather, cups from them), a flexible leg from an old mini lamp and a spring holder. The donor was a Chinese stand for a soldering iron with a magnifying glass.
Although you can make such a spiral with your own hands by winding steel wire around a pipe or the handle of a screwdriver. The rest of the blanks are also replaceable, the homemade product is shareware, made from improvised rubbish. Using a drywall bit, we mill out the recesses for the candle cups. Two niches for rosin and solder, and one niche for cleaning cloth.
IN comfortable spot(not in the center) mount a spiral holder for the soldering iron. Practice has shown that this scheme is more convenient than the classic horn stand for a soldering iron. The electrical appliance is inserted in one motion, without fear of it falling onto the table.
We install aluminum cups in the prepared niches and cut off the edges flush with the board. The use of thin-walled containers pays off when working with low-power soldering irons. How less metal– the lower the heat capacity. The thick walls of the solder cup can cool the small tip of the soldering iron when touched. On the contrary, thin aluminum foil surrounded by wood retains heat.
We crimp the “crocodiles” onto the flexible rod and secure the “third arm” to the stand. There are designs with magnifying glass. Experience shows that the soldering iron stand, on which the clamps and magnifying glass are mounted, is inconvenient to use.
Optimal options
- the magnifying glass is combined with the “third hand”, the soldering iron is separate
- “third hand” on a stand with a soldering iron, a magnifying glass on a separate pedestal (our version).
The only thing missing is the ability to change temperature conditions work. This is especially true when installing LEDs.
Soldering iron stand and power regulator
The simplest and relatively affordable option is to purchase a Chinese soldering station kit. You will be assembling such a KIT yourself, so we will classify it as homemade.
It can be assembled in a stand housing or as a separate device. The convenience of this design is undeniable, but we are considering the least expensive options. A 220-volt soldering iron is available in almost every home; all that remains is to assemble a power regulator.
Important! Dimers for incandescent lamps can be used, taking into account the power of the soldering iron.
But you will have to buy them again. Let's consider a simple circuit of a homemade regulator with a power of up to 200 W.
You can use an autotransformer, but this is a bulky device with low efficiency. Let's leave such “devices” for the radio engineering museum. Our triac circuit is miniature and economical.
You will need the following items
- variable resistor(voltage regulator) R1 rated up to 500 Ohm
- the second part of the divider is a constant resistor R2 with a nominal value of 4.7 kOhm
- C1 – capacitor alternating current 0.1 µF
- VD1 – diode type 1N4148
- LED element VD-2 for power indication
- DB3 series dinistor (VD3 in the diagram)
- the main element is a BTA06-600 triac, designated VD4.
The circuit ensures continuous operation with a load of 200-300 W. Short-term loads up to 500 W are allowed.
Circuit board drawing for self-etching:
Carefully assemble the board, carefully soldering the legs of the parts. If the contact breaks, you can get uncontrolled voltage surges at the output.
The circuit is compact and can easily fit on a soldering iron stand. With power up to 100 W, triac cooling is not required. For larger loads, a small radiator is attached to the body.
After reviewing the material, you yourself will decide which stand to make. Or look visual video lesson on making a stand with your own hands.
DIY soldering iron stand - a sign good style works Link to main publication
obinstrumente.ru
Homemade soldering iron stand with your own hands
Many offline and online stores sell good and quite convenient stands for soldering irons, and inexpensively. But if you wish, you can make them yourself.
It will be cheaper, plus you can adapt the stand to your own needs.
There are a lot of ideas for making them, so we decided not to limit ourselves to just one, but to make a selection of the most interesting, in our opinion, homemade soldering iron stands, made with our own hands.
Soldering iron stand made of wire.
Let's start with the most budget-friendly, simple and common option. In it, the mount for the soldering iron is made of thick metal wire in the form of a conical spring and is attached to a wooden or other base.
Instead of wire, you can use thin metal clothes hangers, which are found in almost every home.
Such a stand can be made more convenient if you install additional goodies on it, for example, a metal sponge for cleaning a soldering iron, a box for tin and rosin, or a holder for soldering.
You can make another homemade stand for a soldering iron from wire, which is a little less convenient (although this is a matter of taste) and just as easy to make.
Soldering iron stand made from fuses.
Another option is a stand that is very easy to make and does not require any money. The base is made of a wooden block or textolite, the fuse jaws are attached to it on top the right size.
Mobile stand.
Homemade mobile stand for a soldering iron, made of sheet metal, obtained from a burnt-out computer power supply. The stand is intended primarily for people who often solder outside the home. It is quite comfortable and functional, and easily fits into a bag or even a jacket pocket.
Having such a stand, you do not have to carry tin, rosin and a clamp separately for soldering small parts. Where and what to store is clearly shown in the video, we recommend watching it.
Well, you can find the manufacturing instructions here.
DIY soldering iron stands.
Complex multifunctional stands are a matter of taste. Some people really like them, others prefer simple designs which we showed above. In any case, the complex stands deserve attention, as they are well made.
We will show only a few of them, the most interesting in our opinion.
The first stand has everything you need for comfortable work, namely a place for tin and rosin, a clamp for soldering small parts, a sponge for cleaning the tip, a built-in regulator, and the actual fasteners for quick but reliable fixation of the soldering iron.
See the manufacturing process here.
Well, two more and no less interesting ideas in video format.
The simplest stand.
If you urgently need a stand for a soldering iron, then making something complicated is not best idea, since haste always leads to slack. It is better to temporarily make a simple design, and then change it to something more worthy.
Most best option, which is done in just a couple of minutes - this is wooden beam ok with four long screws. The soldering iron fits well on it, is easy to pull out, but does not fall out on its own.
samodelki.org
DIY soldering iron stand
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Good day to all lovers of homemade products. every radio amateur or just a beginner in this business knows how to work with a soldering iron, and for him convenient use a stand is required. In this article I will talk about how to make a homemade budget stand for a soldering iron. In order to assemble our stand you will need:
* A sheet of chipboard, 18 mm thick, could be thicker, but I think this is the most optimal thickness. * 4 self-tapping screws 20 mm and 4 smaller bolts. * Coarse sandpaper. * A couple of rubber stoppers from chemical test tubes. * A hacksaw for metal. * Cross screwdriver or screwdriver.* Thin screwdriver, an awl will also work.* Pliers.* Iron plate.* Metal mount from the antenna.* Tin from an old receiver that covers the board.* Spring from a pen.* Soldering iron itself for testing. The first step will be grinding already cut chipboard sheet. We sand thoroughly and give the edges a rounded appearance. We bring the blank for the stand to this form. The photo shows which workpiece was before grinding and which after. 
Having thought that many purchased stands are so simple that they do not have legs, I decided to make rubber feet for my stand. 
We saw through the rubber plugs taken from the chemical test tubes with a hacksaw, making them the same thickness using sandpaper if it was not possible to saw off smoothly. 
After that, screw a 20 mm self-tapping screw into each leg. 
And screw the leg with a screw into the pre-prepared hole. 
We fasten the first leg. We fasten the second, third and fourth in the same way. We've sorted out the legs, now the stand won't go anywhere and won't scratch the table. 
The next thing I did was bend the iron plate into a hook shape, as in the photo. 
Using a screwdriver for small parts, I made a hole for two bolts that will hold this hook. 
We tighten the bolts, as we can see the hook holds well. 
Let's try on how the soldering iron will sit. 
Using pliers, bend one edge of the hook, it should look something like this. 
So, the heating part of the soldering iron is not going anywhere now, so let’s move on to the back of the soldering iron, or rather to the handle. I decided to make this holder from an antenna mount that had been lying around for a long time; there are already holes there. 
There is also a recess where the soldering iron handle fits well. 
We fasten this mount with two screws. 
And now the soldering place, since the tin needs to be taken from somewhere, for convenience we will make it closer to the soldering iron tip. I punched a hole in the plate that I took out of the radio and screwed a bolt into it, it firmly pressed it to the stand. 
From ballpoint pen, which had just ended, I removed the spring and decided to put it on our hook, first I bent one end of it, then I made a hole with a screwdriver in the board of the stand and inserted this end of the spring there, and soldered it to the hook at the top. 
The stand is almost ready, the next thing I did was melt the tin at the soldering site, now, if necessary, I can heat this place and tin the wires there. 
The final stage was the decor; I glued an old nameplate from an electric razor to the stand. 
At this point, the homemade soldering iron stand is ready; soldering with it is more convenient and comfortable, and the rubber feet will prevent it from jumping off the slippery surface and will not scratch the table. 
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usamodelkina.ru
DIY budget stand for soldering iron.
This article, I believe, will be primarily useful to those who are taking only their first steps in the world of electronics, but I do not rule out that it will also contain something for radio amateurs with extensive experience. So I'll start with a brief background. One day, I went to our local radio market once again to buy components, and I didn’t see an EPSN “Rexant” soldering iron with a power of 25 Watts. He immediately attracted my attention. The idea arose to update my instrument. It's gone more than half It's been in use for a year since the date of purchase and so far I have no complaints about it. Then the seller also offered a stand for it. But I politely refused, citing lack of funds. Actually, it is a cast iron casting in the shape of a stand. The advantages are the massiveness and relatively convenient position of the instrument on the table; there is a small tray of any shape (it’s not clear what it’s for). The downside is that it is too heavy (in my opinion), the untreated surface of the sole easily scratches the table (can be successfully used instead of a rasp).
Previously, I came across some very decent stands, but their cost was many times higher. I should note that this soldering iron is quite lightweight. It’s so light that the power cord always tries to pull it somewhere to the side. Actually, the idea of making a convenient stand has visited me more than once, but here I finally matured. First of all, I set myself the task: the device should be as cheap as possible, easy to manufacture and convenient, not take up much space on the table and be as functional as possible. I scoured the Internet, getting acquainted with what trade offers today in terms of models, forms and technical solutions. At the same time, I also looked for suitable circuits for adjusting the temperature of the soldering iron tip. Actually, for such a low-power soldering iron, adjusting the temperature of the tip is not particularly necessary. But in the future I plan to buy more powerful soldering irons for this company. I started manufacturing, first of all, with the electronic part, since its size would have required dancing with the dimensions of the case. The circuit based on the K1182PM1 microcircuit attracted attention. The diagram is taken from the datasheet. The microcircuit is intended mainly for controlling the voltage of incandescent lamps, although the range of its applications is much wider.
True, the control scheme was slightly modified due to some reasons and purpose. This is the first time I’ve encountered this microcircuit, and it’s difficult to say how correct the circuit from the datasheet with triac control is. But in this version the operation of the circuit did not suit me, and after some experiments it acquired the following form.
A triac was added to the circuit for greater reliability of the device, although as they write, the microcircuit can confidently “pull” a load of up to 150 Watts. Resistor R2 sets the required minimum temperature of the soldering iron tip. Resistor R3 sets the tip temperature in “standby” mode. Well, R4, R5 had to be installed paired with a nominal value of 2 × 20 Kohm, connecting them in series. There was simply no potentiometer suitable design with the required denomination. As practice has shown, the maximum resistance of the potentiometer should be 33 - 35 Kom. I drew the board in DipTrace 2.4. I have been using this program for many years, I started with version 1.4. The interface of this program is quite simple and convenient. I tried other tracers, but this one was closer to my liking. But here, as they say, taste and color... This time I decided to make a board using the old method (hand drawing), since its size is not large. Actually, I didn’t want to mess around too much with LUT or photoresist on a piece of fiberglass. The board is double-sided and simple, so drawing the tracks took about 20 minutes. To do this, I always have markers and a homemade template made of transparent plastic with a “line” of holes in stock.
I use SCHOLZ markers and am very pleased with them. Once I bought a bunch of markers from different companies and ran an etching test on them, this one showed the best result. Edding and Centropen perform slightly worse. By the way, it dries almost instantly. Because of this, they have to be stored in the refrigerator in an upright position with the feather facing down. The seller shared this secret with me.
Etching in Lately I spend it in a solution of citric acid, hydrogen peroxide and table salt. This recipe, in my opinion, is slightly inferior in terms of pickling speed ferric chloride and persulfates. But the most accessible, cheap and safe. It is still relatively safe, since it is undesirable to enter the body. There is a risk of copper citrate poisoning. True, there is a minus: the solution is disposable and cannot be stored for a long time. This is what the electronic part of the device looks like.
Right assembled circuit works without problems. Before turning it on for the first time, in order to avoid electrical smoke and fireworks, it is advisable to check the correct installation. When setting up, it is better to use an incandescent lamp for visual control device operation.
All elements of the device are influenced by mains voltage, so be sure to follow all safety precautions. Special attention Pay attention to insulation of all electrical circuits.
When I figured out the electronic part, I set about making the stand itself. The housing for the electronic part was made from square pipe size 60 × 60 mm and wall thickness 2 mm. I soldered threaded bushings to the top and bottom of the case for attaching to the base and fastening top cover and with everything that is on it. I soldered with POS60 solder, and used a mixture of zinc chloride and ammonium chloride (ammonia) solution as a flux. Soldering iron 100 watts and a small extra to help gas-burner to speed up the process.
After soldering with this flux, it is necessary to wash all soldered parts with water and detergent and dry everything well to avoid corrosion of parts in the future.
If you are very concerned about your health, then soldering using active fluxes should be carried out in a ventilated room or on outdoors.
As a “carriage”, I used a thin-walled pipe with an outer Ø of 34 mm and a wall thickness of 1 mm. Drilled along the pipe on four sides ventilation holes. At the bottom of the pipe there is a tube soldered for mounting on the axle. There is also a stop attached to the pipe, which, through the pusher rod, presses on the end when installing the soldering iron in the “carriage”. The pipe itself is taken from the guts of the shock absorber strut passenger car. Inside the pipe I installed a conical spiral, which I made from galvanized wire Ø 3mm. I glued a piece of a bicycle inner tube to the end of the pipe with a “stocking” on the outside and inside. Now the soldering iron is fixed tightly, but not tightly without fear of being accidentally pulled out of the stand. The shelf for replacement tips is also made of a square pipe, cut in the shape of the letter “P” and soldered to the cover of the device. The solder supply unit is attached to it. It is very convenient to use a solution for marking on steel copper sulfate. The solution is applied to the cleaned metal surface with a swab or brush, and after drying, you can begin marking. There is no need to take deep risks. To accurately mark the centers of future holes, it is convenient to use a center punch with a lens, for example, like this one.
I made the trays from thin-walled aluminum pipe, but to save space I gave them rectangular shape. I did it very simply; I converted the circumference into the required rectangular perimeter. Next, I cut a beech block about 25 cm long and gave it a slight wedge-shaped shape with curves. With light blows of the hammer on the block, the workpiece, resting in the jaws of the vice, is placed on the block and given the required shape. It is necessary to alternately tap the sides. The whole process took me 10 minutes for each part. Next, the trays were sanded and polished.
Used as a base MDF plates 10 mm thick. This material is easy to process and very cheap (if the design is repeated, it is possible to use waterproof laminate For floor coverings). I cut two plates with dimensions of 130 × 60 and 190 × 60 mm. In a smaller plate, I cut out windows for trays and, after fitting, glued them together with Kleiberit 300 glue. This glue is somewhat similar to PVA, but is superior in its characteristics, and is mainly used in carpentry. The adhesive seam is transparent and very durable, time completely dry 5 – 6 hours. Afterwards, the surface was filled with car putty and, after drying, thoroughly sanded. I painted all the parts with acrylic auto enamel with the addition of varnish and hardener.
For ease of use, I made a simple solder supply unit, which I found on the Internet. But later operation showed its shortcomings. It consisted of having to periodically pull the solder out of the tube. Doing this with one hand is quite inconvenient, so I had to come up with something. The usual standard feeding mechanisms did not suit me; it turned out to be too cumbersome. I wanted simplicity and compactness! I searched the Internet on this topic, but it was a complete bummer, nothing new or interesting. The popular wisdom is indeed right: the morning is wiser than the evening! One day, while leisurely going to work in the morning and once again thinking about this problem, a thought struck me. I was almost dumbfounded from surprise and surprise, why didn’t I think of this before. I spent an hour experimenting and the next day I set about finalizing the unit. It turned out simple and compact, and most importantly, you can use solder wire with a diameter of 0.4 to 1.5 mm, without any adjustments to the unit.
The feeder slider is made of steel tube with outer Ø 4 mm and inner Ø 1.6 mm. A trigger made of a 2mm thick steel plate is soldered to the tube. I bent the plate in half, then spread the edges in opposite directions and shaped it with a file the required form. The parts were soldered together using PSR solder and borax. Solder is a thin tube filled with borax powder. Soldering was carried out over the flame gas stove and additionally heated the soldering areas with a mini burner. In flames blowtorch, it would have been preferable and faster, as I realized later, but for some reason I was lazy. The places of future connections were pre-tinned with the same solder. Afterwards, I boiled the soldered part for about 30 minutes in water to remove any remaining borax and dried it well. I used needle files to remove excess solder and made a cut in the tube as shown in the photo. A drop of solder fixed a plate in the cut, cut from a springy contact in the form of a wedge and bent into a crescent.
The thickness of the spring plate was selected experimentally and should be within 0.25 mm. A deep, sharp internal chamfer is made at the rear end of the tube. A similar piece of tube 6 mm long with a chamfer is inserted into the copper tube at the point where it is rounded until it stops. The chamfer is necessary for better passage of the solder wire when threading the assembly. Also inserted into the rounded part of the copper tube is a piece of plastic tube. Between the plug and the slide there is a return spring with an external Ø 3.8 mm. The tip contains rubber gasket 4 mm thick with a hole, its task is to stop the wire during the reverse stroke of the slide. In general, the mechanism works like a ratchet, and delivers 2 cm of solder at a time. Using the stand has now become much more convenient. As a result, in financially nothing at all was spent on the manufacture of the device (the cost of the microcircuit, triac and potentiometer) and a lot of time spent with pleasure on it. In addition, for beginning DIYers, I can recommend the following literature: N.I. Makienko “Plumbing” and “Soldering Handbook” by A.V. Lacedaemonian. Any edition, but the latter is still preferable. The first one contains a lot of entertaining and useful information on working with measuring instrument, marking, processing of metals and other materials various methods and many other locksmith operations. The second one also has a lot of interesting things for beginners and professionals.
And in conclusion for beginners, not everything works out right away. So don’t be disappointed if something doesn’t work out right away. Over time, the hands become smoother and the movements become more precise. Experience and knowledge come with age.
we.easyelectronics.ru
The main tool for a home radio amateur is a soldering iron. Unlike other devices, it cannot simply be placed on a table (workbench) while working. Why? Right! He is hot. Therefore, you will need a special stand.
There are a lot of different devices on sale, from a simple holder to a whole complex called a soldering station.
In most cases, a soldering iron is needed to perform urgent repair work. If you are not a professional “homemade” tool, the instrument usually gathers dust in a box on the balcony, appearing once or twice a year. In such cases, many people use the first object they come across as a stand.
However, if you put in just a little effort, a DIY soldering iron stand will look no worse than a factory one. Especially if you regularly make electrical circuits.
Minimum required for stand
- Stable base. Made from a material that conducts heat poorly or equipped with legs
- Soldering iron supports
- Container for rosin (flux).
Additional options"
- Tinning area
- Solder container
- Tip cleaning device
- power regulator (can be of two types: smooth adjustment, or stepwise limitation for the time of a break in work).
Leafing through old magazines
In old Radio magazines you can find drawings on how to make a stand with an economical load switch.
- As a basis ( 1 ) a board with a selected middle is used, or a U-shaped structure made of a strip of plywood and two bars along the long edges
- Under the surface there is a 220 volt relay contact group ( 2,4,5 ) with large current collecting areas. The connection circuit transfers power either directly or through a diode. The radio element “cuts off” the halves of the half-cycle of an alternating voltage of 220 volts, reducing it to a value of 110
- Through traction ( 6 ), spring loaded ( 7 ) button ( 8 ) presses the contacts when the soldering iron is lying on the stand. Electricity consumption is half as much, while the soldering iron almost instantly heats up to full power. The rod is attached to the console ( 9 )
- The tool itself is located on brackets ( 3 ) And ( 10 )
- At the rear there is a soldering iron socket connected to the relay output contacts. The power supply wire is connected to the input
- Between the posts, a tin can of shoe polish or Vaseline was usually nailed for storing rosin.
The design is simple, but convenient and effective. If you don’t want any hassles with contacts, we’ll make a simple functional stand. Again from the experience of Soviet radio amateurs.
Good day to all.
Today I want to tell you about a universal soldering iron stand that I purchased on eBay.
It’s not that I’m an ardent fan of assembling or soldering anything, but sometimes it happens that you can’t do without a soldering iron. Either the wiring needs to be soldered somewhere, or the button needs to be re-soldered, or something else will come off or break suddenly and at the most inopportune moment. Since I got a soldering iron, all these problems have become easily solvable and not as global as they were before. But there was still one nuance - sometimes you had to solder something extremely inconvenient, when you hold the wires with one hand and try to solder them with the other. In such cases, taking solder becomes very problematic and then I had to resort to the help of my wife :) Use it instead of a wire clamp. My wife didn’t really like this job and I once thought about purchasing something more trouble-free than a woman. In other words, I started looking for a stand. To my great surprise, I didn’t have any problems finding this device, but the variety is a real problem - I managed to find only a few models that were not very different from each other in their functionality. In the end, I decided not to overpay and purchased one of the cheapest lots - a stand that cost only $9.19. Perhaps some of you will say that you can buy this in some hypermarket or radio equipment store, but let’s not forget that this review was written by a resident of Belarus, and we have a completely different situation here. And rather than wandering around the shops, it’s easier for me to place an order online and receive it in the mail after a couple of weeks.
The seller turned out to be quite prompt and sent my parcel a few hours after payment. If anyone is interested, you can see the movement of a parcel from China to Belarus.
During the not very long journey, the parcel suffered a lot: one side of it was terribly jammed. 
But there were no losses and the contents of the parcel were not damaged. I really can’t imagine how this is possible, taking into account such damage to the packaging :) As you can see, the factory packaging was once a beautiful colorful cardboard box with fairly high quality printing. On front side The box shows our stand, and on the sides are its main characteristics and capabilities. 
Inside the box was our stand, as well as a black and white instruction manual. The stand is supplied disassembled, the grips come in a separate cardboard box, and the soldering iron holder, made in the form of a spiral, also comes separately. 
There are no complaints about the quality of production. Immediately after receiving the plastic, the sound was not very strong, but also not very nice smell. Today it has decreased significantly, but the stand still smells, although this is not critical, since much stronger odors appear during soldering :)
There are 2 fastenings on the stand - a movable hinged one for the grips and a stationary one for the holder. 
They are fixed using special clamping screws with plastic caps. It seems that they are not very flimsy, but this saving did not seem very practical to me. If you try to tighten the fastener, you may not calculate the force applied and break the plastic. It would be much better if these screws were completely metal.
The holder has a knurled end that allows it to be securely secured using a clamping screw. 
But the fastening of the grips is simply pressed against the stand, which is also not very good. It is not possible to securely fix it, one way or another it remains movable: (Most likely you will have to drill small holes for the clamping screw with reverse side holders, or use electrical tape :) By the way, the entire part of the structure on which the clamps are installed is connected using hinge joints. Thanks to this, you can easily position the paws as you please. There are 3 such connections in total, that is, this structure can be bent in 6 places almost 360 degrees. There are no problems with the choice of positions here and cannot be. The grips here are a la crocodiles, with a fairly tight spring, so you have to be careful when fixing fragile objects. But everything is clamped securely - nothing will accidentally fall out. 
The wings are clamped with decent effort. You may need pliers for fixation :) 
And above the whole thing rises a plastic magnifying glass, fixed on a bendable support. If you believe the seller and what is written in his ad, it magnifies it 3.5 times, and if you use the small insert located at the top of the magnifying glass, then 12 times. 
I don’t know about the accuracy of this data, but the fact that glass magnifies is a fact.
Right there, near the magnifying glass, you can see a button that turns on the backlight. Yes, yes, this stand has LED lighting, which can be useful in some cases. The button presses well and smoothly. No problems with its operation have yet been discovered. 
It includes 2 diodes located under a magnifying glass. It’s not that these diodes give light like a normal lamp, but illuminate some kind of small area or their power is quite enough to disperse the shadow. 
This whole cunning circuit is powered by 3 AAA batteries, which are installed at the foot of the stand. 
When assembled, this entire structure looks like this: 
And finally, about the shortcomings. Or rather, not so much about the shortcomings, but about what I would like to see here. And I would like to see a built-in socket and cord here to connect the stand to the network. I think it would be convenient to plug the soldering iron into the stand, rather than into a socket - there would be more room for maneuver, so to speak. Perhaps, if I’m not too lazy, I’ll try to modify the stand myself :)
Overall, I was very pleased with this purchase. The stand turned out to be very convenient, practical and functional. It fully justifies its cost and will definitely be useful to everyone who has ever held a soldering iron in their hands. The only 2 nuances that can be a little frustrating are the plastic lens, which will probably get scratched over time and the “lambs” are not very comfortable to clamp (but this is only if you want to clamp them very tightly).
And this is what she looks like fully armed: 
Basically, that's all. Thank you all for your attention and time spent.
The main tool for a home radio amateur is a soldering iron. Unlike other devices, it cannot simply be placed on a table (workbench) while working. Why? Right! He is hot. Therefore, you will need a special stand.
- 1 Minimum Required for stand
- 2 Leafing through old magazines
- 3 Third hand - work in comfort
- 3.1 Optimal options
- 4 Stand and power regulator for soldering iron
- 4.1 You will need the following items
There are a lot of different devices on sale, from a simple holder to a whole complex called a soldering station.
In most cases, a soldering iron is needed to perform urgent repair work. If you are not a professional “homemade” tool, the instrument usually gathers dust in a box on the balcony, appearing once or twice a year. In such cases, many people use the first object they come across as a stand.
However, if you put in just a little effort, a DIY soldering iron stand will look no worse than a factory one. Especially if you regularly make electrical circuits.
Minimum required for stand
Leafing through old magazines
In old Radio magazines you can find drawings on how to make a stand with an economical load switch.
- As a base (1), a board with a selected middle is used, or a U-shaped structure made from a strip of plywood and two bars along the long edges
- Under the surface there is a relay contact group for 220 volts (2,4,5) with large current-collecting pads. The connection circuit transfers power either directly or through a diode. The radio element “cuts off” the halves of the half-cycle of an alternating voltage of 220 volts, reducing it to a value of 110
- Through the rod (6), the spring-loaded (7) button (8) presses the contacts when the soldering iron lies on the stand. Electricity consumption is half as much, while the soldering iron almost instantly heats up to full power. The rod is attached to the console (9)
- The tool itself is located on brackets (3) and (10)
- At the rear there is a soldering iron socket connected to the relay output contacts. The power supply wire is connected to the input
- Between the posts, a tin can of shoe polish or Vaseline was usually nailed for storing rosin.
The design is simple, but convenient and effective. If you don’t want any hassles with contacts, we’ll make a simple functional stand. Again from the experience of Soviet radio amateurs.
Third hand - work in comfort
During suspended soldering, it becomes necessary to hold two parts and a soldering iron at the same time. This is where the term “third hand” comes from. The next review is a homemade stand with such a device.
The materials and tools that will be needed for manufacturing are shown in the photo:
Factory-made parts - crocodile clips, decorative candles (or rather, cups from them), a flexible leg from an old mini lamp and a spring holder. The donor was a Chinese stand for a soldering iron with a magnifying glass.
Although you can make such a spiral with your own hands by winding steel wire around a pipe or the handle of a screwdriver. The rest of the blanks are also replaceable, the homemade product is shareware, made from improvised rubbish.
Using a drywall bit, we mill out the recesses for the candle cups. Two niches for rosin and solder, and one niche for cleaning cloth.
We mount the spiral holder for the soldering iron in a convenient place (not in the center). Practice has shown that this scheme is more convenient than the classic horn stand for a soldering iron. The electrical appliance is inserted in one motion, without fear of it falling onto the table.
We install aluminum cups in the prepared niches and cut off the edges flush with the board. The use of thin-walled containers pays off when working with low-power soldering irons. The less metal there is, the lower the heat capacity. The thick walls of the solder cup can cool the small tip of the soldering iron when touched. On the contrary, thin aluminum foil surrounded by wood retains heat.
We crimp the “crocodiles” onto the flexible rod and secure the “third arm” to the stand. There are designs with a magnifying glass. Experience shows that the soldering iron stand, on which the clamps and magnifying glass are mounted, is inconvenient to use.
Optimal options
- the magnifying glass is combined with the “third hand”, the soldering iron is separate
- “third hand” on a stand with a soldering iron, a magnifying glass on a separate pedestal (our version).
The only thing missing is the ability to change operating temperature conditions. This is especially true when installing LEDs.
Soldering iron stand and power regulator
The simplest and relatively affordable option is to purchase a Chinese soldering station kit. You will be assembling such a KIT yourself, so we will classify it as homemade.
It can be assembled in a stand housing or as a separate device. The convenience of this design is undeniable, but we are considering the least expensive options. A 220-volt soldering iron is available in almost every home; all that remains is to assemble a power regulator.
Important! Dimers for incandescent lamps can be used, taking into account the power of the soldering iron.
But you will have to buy them again. Let's consider a simple circuit of a homemade regulator with a power of up to 200 W.
You can use an autotransformer, but this is a bulky device with low efficiency. Let's leave such “devices” for the radio engineering museum. Our triac circuit is miniature and economical.
You will need the following items
The circuit ensures continuous operation with a load of 200-300 W. Short-term loads up to 500 W are allowed.
Circuit board drawing for self-etching:
Carefully assemble the board, carefully soldering the legs of the parts. If the contact breaks, you can get uncontrolled voltage surges at the output.
The circuit is compact and can easily fit on a soldering iron stand. With power up to 100 W, triac cooling is not required. For larger loads, a small radiator is attached to the body.
After reviewing the material, you yourself will decide which stand to make. Or watch a visual video tutorial on how to make a stand yourself.
A soldering iron stand is an indispensable attribute of a soldering installation. It can be purchased at any hardware store or on the market. However, its cost is quite high. To save your own money, a stand is made for financial issue, its functionality is considered. That is, it can be used for various needs on the farm or in a production workshop. There are quite a lot of manufacturing options. All of them differ in the complexity of the design and the amount of time spent.
General information
As mentioned earlier, a do-it-yourself soldering iron stand - convenient device, which performs many functions. First of all, it is a protective surface, which prevents damage to property.
Before working with the soldering machine, it must be warmed up. In this case, the metal case heats up to high temperatures.
Soldering iron stand - what is it for?
A high-quality part is necessary for those people who do a lot of work with soldering. To make such a device as a soldering iron stand, no special skills or abilities are required. The process uses simple and available materials and tools. The finished device is easy to use. A homemade soldering iron stand should consist of separate elements. First of all, special containers are provided for rosin, flux and a department for mixing them. Some models are equipped with a box where they are stored small parts. The soldering iron stand is suitable for any device, regardless of its power and degree of heating. When making the structure, the location of these containers should be taken into account. Everything should be located so that it is convenient for the master to solder.
How to make a soldering iron stand?
It is not profitable to buy ready-made stands, since they are expensive and small. dimensions, which are not suitable for all types of devices. Therefore, many users ask this question: “How to make a soldering iron stand with your own hands?”
Before starting production, you need to prepare the materials. To do this, you should purchase the following components:
- duralumin sheets, the thickness of which is 1.5-2 mm;
- small wooden block(can be used different kinds tree);
- varnish containers;
- two metal boxes.
Once all these parts have been purchased, you can begin making the stand.
So, several holes need to be made in the plate. Containers for rosin and alcohol will be attached to them. Installation of cans is easy. The containers should be easily inserted into the structure and fit snugly against each other. After these procedures, it is necessary to make a support. It is made by bending the base.
If necessary, each person can make special racks that lift the structure a certain distance. This is done for convenience during the work process. Preparatory work ends with processing the duralumin sheet with a file or sandpaper. Corners should not have sharp ends.
Assembly of the structure
So, let's start assembling the soldering iron stand. The prepared support must be secured to a wooden beam.
This can be done using screws. Next, the prepared small containers are attached. They are attached to the base using special glue or epoxy resin. Many craftsmen also install a small container between the racks. You can store small parts in it that you will need during your work.
From wire
A stand for a soldering iron made of wire has gained great popularity among many craftsmen and amateurs. It can be made from an ordinary tin can. In the process of assembling the installation, simple parts are used:
- tin;
- pencil large diameter;
- washers and bolts;
- wire.
First you need to make a spring. The first thing you need to do is purchase wire from the store. Some people remove it from other indoor fixtures. It must be thick enough so that a soldering iron heated to high temperatures does not destroy it. In addition, only high-strength material will be used. Ready product should spring back.
Cut the required length of wire and carefully align it. To create a spring, use a large diameter pencil. Holding the wire, carefully wind it onto the pencil. The result should be a tight spiral. At its end there is a special fastening in the form of an eyelet. For these purposes, pliers are used.
The next step is to prepare the tin can. A small hole is drilled in its bottom.
This can be done using a nail or drill. Next, the stand for the soldering iron is assembled. The prepared spring is inserted into the jar and the structure is secured using a bolt and nut. To ensure a more durable fastening, washers are used. This method is quite simple. Anyone can make a soldering iron stand. Its manufacture does not require much time or special tools.
Soldering iron stand with power regulator
All more people prefer to use this particular type of stand. Its essence lies in the fact that it is equipped special device, which independently adjusts the degree of heating of the soldering iron. Therefore, the device does not overheat and does not fail. The stand differs from other types in that it requires an electrical connection to function. To make a version with a power regulator, you need to take the following elements:
- copper wire;
- a small piece of plywood;
- transformer;
- LEDs;
- fastening parts;
- resistor;
- wires;
- socket for connecting to the network.
After everything necessary details were purchased, proceed directly to assembling the stand.
First, select the size of the installation. Based on this information, a base is cut out of a sheet of plywood. Next, the transformer and other parts will be attached to it.
Fuse stand
Making this option does not take much time, effort, and also does not require large financial investments. The base is a wooden beam onto which the fuse jaws are attached. They can be various sizes. It all depends on the personal preferences of the masters.
Benefits of stands
First of all, the main advantage is mobility. Homemade coasters used by people who quite often do soldering, working within several workshops. Such a design is not always at hand. However, it is easy to make. In addition, there is no need to carry rosin and tin separately in different containers, since now they are stored in special jars on a stand. That's why homemade installations They are popular not only among amateurs, but also among professionals.
How to make a simple model?
It happens that you urgently need to use a soldering iron, but there is no stand for it.
In this case, there is no time to look for the necessary parts and run around the shops. Therefore, it is better to make a simple one, but also reliable design. There are many options, but there is the fastest one. The stand can be made in a few minutes. An ordinary wooden block will serve as the base, and screws or nails will serve as supports. They are driven crosswise into the beam. This creates a stand on which the soldering iron fits well and holds tightly.
Conclusion
When soldering elements, there must be a stand for the device. Given auxiliary equipment It is expensive, so it is better to make it yourself. This process will not take much time, effort, and will also save money.
