How to install PVC windows in a wooden house yourself: step-by-step instructions. Technology for installing plastic windows in a wooden house How to install double-glazed windows in a wooden house

Nowadays, with the ever-increasing prices of “life,” all sorts of thoughts about maintaining heat in our home enter our heads. Everyone knows that metal-plastic windows retain about 25% of heat, which means they will help save us a lot of money when cold weather sets in.

Installation of a plastic window in wooden house– it’s not a tricky thing. Almost everyone can do this, having in their assortment the usual tools found in every garage. Do-it-yourself installation will help save money and nerves, since having workers in the house is not always a good thing. Let's look at the process in more detail.

Choosing a plastic window for a wooden house

First of all, you will need to take accurate measurements of the window niche. Moreover, the accuracy should be down to a centimeter, without “approximately”. If the measurements are smaller, you will have to knock off the wall; if it is larger, you will have to seal the space between the window frame and the wall. When installing PVC windows in a wooden house, the gap should be as small as possible. But it is worth considering that wood tends to expand, absorbing moisture. Subsequently, the window opening may be deformed. After all measurements have been taken and written down on your sheet of paper, we head to a specialized manufacturing company plastic windows.

When choosing a new window, you should focus your attention on 4 components of the window:

Double-glazed window. Glass is the most important component modern window. About 65% of heat loss passes through it. The most popular double-glazed windows are double-chamber ones, the chambers of which contain gas that has minimal thermal conductivity. Windows with additional film are now popular. The assortment includes transparent and darkened films. It further reduces heat transfer through the glass unit. It is better to install windows with darkened film on the sunny side.

Profile. An important role in the structure of a plastic window is played by the profile. The characteristics of the profile are determined by the number of air chambers, which serve to reduce thermal conductivity. Their quantity significantly affects the thermal conductivity of the window. If your wooden house is located in a place with a high noise level (for example, near a highway), then a six-chamber profile with double glazing will provide excellent sound insulation in the house.

Accessories. It must be made of high quality metal. The fittings can withstand considerable overloads, especially when a rotating window mechanism with ventilation is used. The fittings are made of low-quality metal and will not serve you well. a large number of time. With further long-term use, troubles such as sash misalignment, poor closure and leaks are possible.

Seals. Also, you should pay attention to the seals. They must be made from special material, which remains elastic under any conditions, be it frost or heat. Ordinary rubber loses its elastic properties when the temperature drops, and with prolonged exposure it cracks and crumbles.

All this needs to be considered before installing a plastic window in a wooden house. If you choose all these elements correctly, then your euro-window will not let you down and will keep your home warm. And remember that expensive is not always good. We must always choose the golden mean.

Removing the old window and preparatory work

It's better to do it slowly, but first-class. Specialized workers do everything quickly, but they do not bother with the quality of the dismantling. Very often, they leave broken walls, broken old frames and glass.

When performing all the work on installing windows in a wooden house, there is no need to rush. You can do everything much more carefully, leaving all the elements intact and suitable for recycling. They will also be useful for a summer house or garage.

We remove the old window in the following sequence:

1) Remove the doors.
2) Take out the frame.
3) Remove the window sill and ebb.

Making window casing in a wooden frame

You can skip this step, but serious problems may arise later. The casing will prevent the window opening from skewing. The material must be dry and durable, the thickness of the boards must be more than 4 cm. Otherwise, they will be deformed along with the opening. The width of the casing must correspond to the thickness of the wall.
Methods for casing:

  • Spike monolith.
  • Backing beam.
  • Into the deck.

The most complex and reliable is the first type of casing. But beginners who do not have special skills in installing windows prefer to do the casing with a backing block. To do this, you need to make grooves in the middle of the window opening.



You will need a circular saw, axe, chainsaw or chisel. Optimal size furrows 5x5 cm. Place on a block of the same size edged board and is secured with self-tapping screws or bolts. If a tongue-and-groove casing is used, then the T-shaped beam is cut out in advance and inserted into the furrow. The final stage Laying polyurethane foam is considered to be the gap between the casing and the wall. Since the foam tends to collapse under the influence of sunlight, it is necessary to close the foam from the outside windproof membrane, inside - vapor barrier.

Installing a window frame in the house

Before final fastening of the frame, it is first necessary to try on the base in window opening. If it is inconvenient to use a building level, you can use a plumb line. Then, using wedge-shaped blocks, we fix the frame in the window frame. This will help prevent the frame from moving horizontally and will make final fastening easier.

To properly install windows in a wooden house with your own hands, you should install fasteners. The gaps between the frame and the opening should be within 1 cm. Most often, anchor plates are used. They are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws, about 3–5 cm long. Upon completion of all installation work, the gap between the frame and the window frame should be filled with polyurethane foam. If the gap is more than 2 cm, then foaming should be divided into several stages. Foam drying time is 10 – 12 hours.

Installation of window sashes in the house

After installing the frame, we install the sashes. The sash is a movable component of a Euro window, which allows it to be opened or closed. It is fixed on special articulated and movable elements (hinges) of the frame.

If the frame is set correctly and level, the sashes will fit perfectly. However, there may be some issues with gaps and locks. They can be adjusted with a Phillips screwdriver. The basic rule for installing sashes is to do everything evenly. If the side needs to be raised/lowered, then turn the bolts an equal number of turns. After each manipulation, you need to open/close the doors and try on the changes.

Installation of fittings, slopes, window sills in a wooden house

The frame was installed, the sashes were screwed on and the mounting materials were allowed to harden a little. Now we've come to final stages instructions for installing windows in a wooden house with your own hands. It remains to complete some finishing touches and you can celebrate the victory.
First, you need to select and install the right window sill. There are several common types of window sills

  • Plastic. A very light and relatively durable multi-chamber type of window sills, which are covered with PVC film on top. There are many colors and imitations various materials. But consumers prefer the standard white or wood-look color.
  • Wooden. Wooden window sills react to changes in moisture and as a result can become deformed. The advantage of wooden window sills is naturalness and appearance. At the same time – special coating protective layer Necessarily!

Let's look at how to properly install a wooden window sill in a log house.

Step 1: Material Processing. To begin with, it is necessary to thoroughly treat our window sill with a moisture-proofing compound, which will protect it from the premature appearance of rot and damage to the window sill. The window opening must be cleaned of dust and dirt deposits, and, if possible, treated with the same composition as the window sill.

Step 2. Installation of the window sill. The wooden window sill is attached to nails, which must first be driven into the bottom beam of the box. After leveling the window sill, using wedge blocks, tighten the screws, with front side window sill, all the way. Any voids that remain should be filled with foam. After drying, cut off the excess.

Choose the wood for your window sill carefully. It should not be overdried or have chips or cracks. Wooden window sills are well suited for any log house. They will also serve as a good shelf for various plants or small things.

After complete installation of the window sill, we proceed to installation wooden slopes. The process of installing window slopes with inside, is completely identical to installing slopes from the outside, and will not cause any problems during the work.

This is the final chord in installing windows in an old wooden house. Let's consider all the processes step by step.

Step 1: Sidebars. To begin with, let's fasten side panels using self-tapping screws. It is advisable to place the panel fastening points where the decorative corner will be installed, which will cover all the screws. This way we will preserve the aesthetic appearance of the panels as much as possible. Then, using the same analogy, we finish the upper window opening.

Step 2. Sealing the seams. We coat all seams and joints of panels with sealant to prevent moisture penetration. Additionally, it can be treated with a moisture protective agent.

Step 3. Installation of corners. After all the seams and joints have dried, we install the decorative corners. They can be attached using “liquid” nails, construction stapler or foam. All work on the installation of the window sill and slopes should be carried out after completely dry designs. This means that you need to wait at least 12 hours after installing the window.

If this is your first time installing, the process may seem quite complicated. It’s better to immediately watch a video on how to install plastic windows in a wooden house. The main feature of wooden structures is their environmental friendliness. Wooden beam has the ability to “breathe”, age and shrink. This is main reason, which makes it difficult to install windows and doors in a wooden frame.

Shrinkage occurs due to loss of moisture from the wood. This is especially noticeable in the first 4 years. We need polyurethane foam to compensate for minimal shrinkage. By casing, we make the window opening independent of the walls. The socket limits the movement of the log vertically, thereby ensuring normal, uniform shrinkage and does not interfere with the breathing of the log.

So we figured out how to properly install a window in a wooden house. There is nothing complicated about it. Everything is elementary simple and clear if you do everything installation work using proven technologies and simple step-by-step instructions.

Installation metal-plastic windows in a wooden house has its own characteristics due to shrinkage of the building. If you do not take into account all the properties of wood, the windows will quickly fail.

Shrinkage of a wooden house and countermeasures

It is generally accepted that the shrinkage of a building lasts 5 years and eventually deforms the walls. But that is not all. Over time, the logs dry out and decrease in diameter, reducing the height of the wall by 1.5 cm. To prevent mechanical stress from wall deformation from affecting the windows, special structures called casing or frames are installed in the window openings.

Pipe design

There are two types of socket - in the embedded beam and in the deck. According to the first option, a groove is made in the timber into which a casing element is inserted. The second option involves making a spike in the timber on which the pigtail will be held.


For plastic windows, it is recommended to use a modernized version, when a ridge is made at the ends of the logs, a window carriage with a groove is put on it, and then a plastic window is attached to it. The design of the carriage consists of four elements - two beams with grooves at the ends and two boards with tenons at the edges. The beams are placed vertically in the window opening, the boards are laid with tenons in the grooves of the beams. With this design, when the logs dry out, they will move along the groove inside the carriage without affecting the windows.


Preparing the window opening

On vertical walls window opening, draw two lines vertically, the distance between them is 5 cm. Cut off the excess material with a saw, you should get two ridges 50 mm high and wide. The ridges must be strictly vertical and symmetrical relative to each other.


Manufacturing of carriage elements

Prepare two vertical beams measuring 10x15 cm and a length 5 cm shorter than the window opening. Cut a 50x50 mm groove in the middle part. Install the beams with grooves onto the tenons. To prevent squeaking, first wrap the comb with rolled tow.


For the horizontal elements of the pigtail, 150x10 mm boards are needed. Make 50x50 mm grooves at the ends of the boards and install them on the ridge at the top and bottom of the carriage.

Control of carriage manufacturing

Measure the internal dimensions of the carriage and compare with the window. The width of the frame should be 2-4 cm greater than the width of the window, and the height should be 5-7 cm greater than the height of the window. Slots are necessary for foaming and for installing a window sill. The horizontal boards must be level, otherwise the window will not fit into the opening. Between the carriage and the logs, at the top of the window, there should be a gap of 50 mm for shrinkage of the house. Secure the top and side elements of the carriage together with self-tapping screws. Do not attach the carriage to the logs of the house, otherwise the meaning of the casing will be lost.


A correctly mounted frame will take the entire load upon itself when it shrinks, will not allow the logs to move horizontally towards the window, and strengthens the wall of the house near the opening.

Window sill installation

Cut out small grooves (0.5-1 cm) on the window frame that will secure the window sill. Install the window sill on regular place, level with wood chips in horizontal plane. Secure the window sill with self-tapping screws. Screw the fasteners in the place where the window frame will be installed. Seal all cracks under the window sill with foam or silicone.


Window installation

Installing a window on a mounted frame is no different from conventional installation. First, remove the glass block from the frame. Place the frame in the carriage, align it in the horizontal and vertical planes and secure it with standard fasteners. Then install the glass block into the frame and install the fittings. Seal all cracks with foam. In a wooden house, plastic windows are often decorated with platbands.


Installing plastic windows on frames is the only option for high-quality installation in a wooden house. The casing always preserves the integrity of the glass unit and the metal window profile.

When building a wooden house, the question often arises of which windows to install, wooden or plastic. Both have their advantages and disadvantages. Plastic structures are distinguished by lower cost and longer service life. They require minimal maintenance during operation. Therefore, most often people choose this material. But what are the features of installing plastic window structures in wooden walls? Are there any fundamental differences between installing windows in a new and old house? It is imperative to know the answers to these questions. So, we install plastic windows in a wooden house with our own hands.

Features of window structures made of polyvinyl chloride

Plastic windows are made of a polyvinyl chloride frame with metal profile inside and double glazed windows. They come in double and triple. Air has been pumped out between the glass panes. The entire structure, assembled into a finished window, is completely sealed and provides all the necessary consumer properties. The characteristics of the materials, the production technology of profiles and double-glazed windows, as well as their assembly into a single whole, have made it possible to provide plastic windows with important advantages:

  • They perfectly protect from the cold, thanks to double-glazed windows with vacuum and a plastic profile design.
  • They have increased soundproofing qualities for the same reasons.
  • Their windows are so perfectly adjusted that they eliminate any distortions when correct adjustment and installation.
  • The service life of such windows exceeds 50 years.
  • They do not require any maintenance other than cleaning and lubricating the hinges.
  • They have an aesthetic appearance and a wide selection of profile models and colors.
  • The cost of plastic windows is significantly lower than wooden ones with similar properties and quality.

An important point is that installing plastic windows is quite possible independently, subject to certain rules. If for brick and concrete walls it does not present any difficulty, then for installation plastic structures in wooden houses it is necessary to take into account a number of circumstances, which will be discussed below.

Installation of plastic windows in a wooden house to replace old ones

Thanks to your wonderful consumer qualities, affordable cost and the possibility of purchasing in installments and on credit, plastic windows gradually filled a huge number of window openings even in old wooden houses. Today, an incredible number of companies are engaged in the installation of plastic structures on a professional basis. Often the cost of installing one window is up to 20% of its cost. At the same time, anyone who knows how to use a tool can independently replace old windows in their home with new ones made of PVC.
To do this you will need some tools and materials:

  • Electric drill or hammer drill with a set of drills.
  • Gasoline or electric saw, nail puller or crowbar. For dismantling old jambs and frames.
  • Hand-held circular saw. For making grooves on the pigtail.
  • Building level. Necessary throughout the entire process. Without it, you shouldn’t even start replacing windows.
  • Autonomous screwdriver.
  • Plastic chisel. Needed to select a groove in the risers of the frame.
  • Roulette.
  • Mallet made of rubber or wood.
  • Pliers.
  • Anchor plates and bolts, self-tapping screws.
  • Hexagon to fit window adjustment screws.
  • Construction polyurethane foam. One window can take from 1 to 3 cylinders, depending on the size of the gaps.
  • Gloves.
  • Wooden spacer wedges.
  • Water in the sprayer.

Installing windows requires at least two people, since it is impossible for one person to lift and level a massive window. One person must support the frame, and the second must carry out all the manipulations to level it and secure it in the slopes.
First, dismantling work is carried out. If the old window blocks can still be used somewhere, and you want to keep them intact, then you will have to tinker, disassembling everything carefully. To do this, first remove the frames, and then remove the window sill and the block itself, being careful not to damage it. Most often, in old wooden houses, only glazed frames can be used, and the blocks have already become unusable. In this case, they simply saw them in the middle and rip them out of the walls with a nail puller. The vacated opening is cleaned of debris and rot. If the log or beam under the window is rotten, and this most likely is the case, then they are also cut out and replaced with new ones. The joints are foamed with polyurethane foam.

When the openings are completely cleaned, you can begin finishing them before installing plastic windows. There are two options here: the block is inserted directly into the opening, which is incorrect, or it is first framed around the perimeter with a special frame. In the first case, you will only need to use a chainsaw to cut off the spike in the walls that held the old wooden window block. In the second case, you need to make a new pigtail. You cannot leave old jambs, even if they are in excellent condition.

It should be noted that if the house is not very old, then making a pigtail is mandatory. After all, even for 5–6 years wooden frame tends to shrink, which can deform plastic blocks. The pigtail is made as follows. In a 100x150 mm beam, select a longitudinal groove having a width equal to the width of the ridge remaining on the walls. To do this you need a circular saw, an ax and a chisel with a hammer. Longitudinal cuts are made with a saw, and then the groove is finished with an ax and chisel. Using this groove, the resulting riser is installed vertically on the crest of the wall. You need two of these risers for each window. At the bottom of each jamb, select a tenon 50x50x25 mm. It is needed to fasten the lower bar, which is also spiked on both sides.

The risers should not reach 100 mm from the top log of the opening. This will allow the top bar to be inserted freely. It is necessary that it does not reach 45 mm from the log. All the frame bars are fastened together with dowels, and the joints are insulated with jute tape.

Installing a plastic window block requires special care and precision. If you neglect the rules, the window will not only open and close poorly, but may also leak or freeze in winter. The simplest way- this is to drill the frame and screw it with self-tapping screws directly to the walls. However, this is the worst and incorrect option, which violates the thermal insulation and tightness of the plastic block. The technology for installing plastic windows in wooden walls involves the use of a window frame.

For proper installation of PVC window blocks, special fastenings are required, space for which is available at the ends of any frame. They look like thin metal plates with perforations. The frames have technical slides along the entire profile edge. They are made in the form of a gutter with a hook. To make the window construction easier, you can remove the doors and vents by removing the pins from the hinges. Sometimes this may not be enough, for example, when installing windows on high altitude. In this case, you can remove all the double-glazed windows so that only the frame remains. This will require special device for pulling out plastic beads. Just do this carefully so as not to damage the double-glazed windows and not to break the tightness of the profile.

The frame is installed using building level. Alignment is done both vertically and horizontally. The frame is first fixed with wooden spacer wedges. Before this, two identical 10 mm thick chips must be placed under the frame. This is enough so that you can foam the gap with polyurethane foam. This is required by the technology for installing plastic windows. The leveled frame is secured using fasteners to the frame in several places.

After this, the window is completely assembled and the sashes are hung. Attention! Installation of double-glazed windows must be done correctly. Inside the frame there are deformation pads made of soft plastic. They must be located on all sides of the glass unit so that it does not come into direct contact with the profile anywhere. This is necessary to ensure that the glass does not crack as a result of accidental deformation. Since the glazing beads have corner cuts at the edges, they are not so easy to insert into place. To install a glazing bead, one of its edges is inserted under the previous glazing bead perpendicular to it. Then they bend it in the middle and carefully insert it under the second one. Only after this is it pressed into place.

Properly installed glazing beads should not have any gaps with the frame. When installing them, you need to try not to damage them. sealing gum, otherwise water will accumulate in the frame. After installing double-glazed windows around the perimeter, foam is carried out, not forgetting to remove chips and spacers after the foam has dried. The resulting holes are foamed. Attention! If you foam the frame without assembling it completely and without hanging the sash, then when hardening the foam will deform it so that it will be impossible to insert or close anything.

Of course, installing plastic windows yourself in a wooden house has some difficulties, but if you do everything according to the instructions, following all the recommendations, then everything will work out for you, and the plastic windows installed by yourself will delight you for a long time, without causing any problems.

Now the only thing left to do is to install a window sill, ebb and line the slopes, both inside and outside. To install a window sill, it is trimmed so that it does not extend beyond the opening. Install it directly under the frame according to the level. To fix the window sill, it is wedged with wooden wedges between the walls. Bars are placed under the bottom so that it takes a horizontal position. After this, the entire space between the window sill and the slope is foamed. The ebb is also installed horizontally and the bent part is screwed to the frame with self-tapping screws. There are a large number of methods for finishing slopes, so we will not consider them within the scope of this article.

Installation of plastic window blocks in a new wooden house

Installing plastic windows in a new wooden house is somewhat different from replacing them in old openings. For obvious reasons, there is no need to carry out dismantling work here. Additionally, it will be necessary to form a ridge in the side walls of the openings. To do this, use a level to mark two parallel lines exactly in the middle of the wall. The distance between them will be 50 mm. Along these lines, cuts are also made with a depth of 50 mm. Then a line is cut on both sides of the wall at the same distance from the edge of the opening. The result will be a comb that will match in size with the grooves on the posts of the pigtail.

Another nuance is related to the fact that new house made of wood shrinks very strongly in the first year. In some cases it can reach 5 cm. For this reason, in the first year it is better not to install windows at all, but if there is such a need, then an adjustment for shrinkage is necessary. To do this, leave a gap about 5 cm wide at the top above the pigtail. It compensates for shrinkage and the frame will be unharmed. This gap can be filled temporarily with boards with soft insulation, so that after the main shrinkage it can be foamed. As the boards shrink, they are removed one at a time, allowing the gap to gradually narrow.

For wooden houses, you should not order ordinary white windows if you are not going to cover it with siding. Natural logs or beams are worthy of brown windows or having a color similar to the structure of the wood. If you make a wood-like panel on them, it will turn out very beautiful combination. White windows are in dissonance with wooden structures.

We looked at ways self-installation plastic windows in wooden walls. As you can see, the technology is quite complex, so it must be followed with great care. Remember that violation of the technological rules for installing plastic windows leads to their deformation or loss of positive qualities.

A window opening in a wooden house has always been one of the most complex construction units. With the advent of PVC windows, to the problems caused by shrinkage processes, an extensive list of new restrictions and requirements associated with the universal design of metal-plastic profiles was added. In this connection, installing plastic windows in a wooden house with your own hands should be done only after a thorough study of all the features of this technology.

Let us immediately emphasize that the principle of fastening PVC windows is fundamentally different from the installation method of classic wooden frames, so even experienced craftsmen who have no experience in this field construction work, it is advisable to study the relevant documentation and technological advice from window manufacturers.

You will find general information about the technology for installing plastic windows in our article, and today we will give step-by-step instructions for self-installation.

When preparing to install a plastic window yourself, you should pay attention Special attention preparation of tools and materials. Considering that in most cases, installation of windows in wooden houses is carried out on-site (dacha, Vacation home etc.), the absence of one specific key or device can create considerable problems.

Let's look at the main groups of tools that are needed to properly install a window structure.

Mechanics

From a mechanical point of view, plastic windows have a far from standard design, so the usual set home handyman will clearly not be enough.

Below is a list of mechanical tools required for efficient work with PVC profile:

  • iron and rubber hammer (an elastic striker is used to position the frame);
  • universal screwdriver;
  • set of hex keys;
  • handle for removing pins (with hexagonal tip);
  • electric drill;
  • drills for concrete and metal (diameters from 3 to 10 mm);
  • mounting wedges and gaskets;
  • universal adjusting key;
  • measuring kit (tape measure, square, building level, plumb line);
  • device for gripping double-glazed windows (“glass jacks”).

Please note that a regular hacksaw may not be enough for cutting expansion profiles, since some types of extensions can be reinforced with metal. Of course, it is possible to cut such a profile with a hand saw, but you will have to spend much more time on each detail.

Taking into account the above, it would be useful to supplement the above list with a mechanized version of the saw (a jigsaw or a circular saw), as well as devices for fixation (clamps).

It is advisable to take a clamp with a wide grip, since they may be needed not only for securing materials during cutting, but also for attaching expansion profiles.

Sealing

An integral part of the technology for assembling metal-plastic windows is sealing using sealing tapes and polymerizable substances.

When installing PVC profiles With your own hands, you can use sprayers supplied with cylinders of polyurethane foam, but for professional work It is advisable to purchase a separate device that will significantly reduce the cost of consumables.

We would like to separately emphasize that, in addition to polyurethane foam, when installing windows made of polyvinyl chloride, silicone is often used, which is extremely difficult to squeeze out of the tube without a special “gun”.

Waterproofing

Any polymer sealant– and polyurethane foam is no exception – in the case of constant contact with outside air and moisture, it quickly collapses. To slow down this process, internal and external surfaces installation gaps must be protected with waterproofing (installed on internal surfaces, such protection is called “vapor barrier”).

This can be done either using special tape or through the application of special pastes (putties).

Depending on what type of waterproofing is preferred, the basic list of tools must be supplemented with scissors or a set of spatulas.

Preparing for installation

After the PVC window has been purchased and delivered, it is imperative to check the completeness and compliance of the actual dimensions with the parameters specified in the order.

Before you start technical description work on self-installation of windows, we list the main terms used to refer to the elements of their design:

  • frame (power base of the window);
  • sash (moving part of the window);
  • double-glazed window (1-2-3 chamber set of glasses combined into a single block);
  • impost (internal partitions of the frame);
  • glazing bead (snap strips necessary for fixing double-glazed windows in the frame or sashes);
  • fittings (window control and regulating elements);
  • slope ( decorative panel, covering the end of the frame or the internal plane of the casing);
  • windowsill;
  • extension (an expanding profile used to adjust the geometric dimensions of the window).

Examination

As practice shows, window handles and other auxiliary fittings are often lost during transportation.

If the order included mosquito net– it is necessary to check the availability of fasteners for its installation.

In addition to completeness, the dimensions of the window and casing are checked for compliance. The main test criterion is simple - the installation gap should be no more than 2 cm (but not less than 5 mm!). It must be taken into account that when comparing linear dimensions the above tolerances are multiplied by two. That is, if the internal width of the casing, for example, is 200 cm, then the total width of the frame should be no more than 200-2*2=196 cm.

In cases where the window was purchased with the expectation of adding extensions, measurements are made taking into account the mutual overlap of the locks.

Next, you need to select fastening pins, the length of which should be such that when fully screwed in, they do not pierce through the casing.

This requirement is relevant only for those cases when the window installation is carried out with drilling of the profile. However, it should be remembered that this installation method is a backup and is used only in cases where the window is mounted in a frame consisting only of embedded timber.

The main method of fixing a PVC window in an opening is installation on anchor plates, the purchase of which should also be included in the list of preparatory work.

Disassembly and preparation for installation

The next stage of preparation for installation is disassembling the factory delivery kit. Despite the fact that window installation can be done without dismantling the double-glazed windows, we recommend using the option with complete disassembly, since it is much easier to install and center a light frame than a massive and inconvenient window unit to manipulate.

Below are step-by-step instructions for the disassembly and preparation process:

  • remove the packaging and protective tape (from internal surfaces You don’t have to remove the tape, but if you leave it on the outside, then after 1-2 months it will “stick” tightly to the frame);
  • remove the glass units. To do this, you need to remove the glazing beads from the latches. You should start from the bottom;
  • dismantle the frames, for which you will need to remove the locking pins (a special key is used for this operation, mentioned in the previous section);
  • dismantle auxiliary fittings, otherwise they may be lost or damaged during installation (plugs for drainage holes, covers for hinges, etc.).
  • if the window is installed in a reverse quarter, stick the PSUL sealing tape to the outer perimeter of the frame;
  • drill holes for dowels or mount anchor plates (depending on the installation method).

We would like to highlight the following nuances:

  • when removing double-glazed windows, you should note the original position of the left and right glazing beads;
  • the lower edge of the double-glazed windows must be installed on special gaskets - their position must be noted;
  • It is best to grip glass panels using special device(it is also indicated in the list of tools listed above);
  • The removed glass units should be handled with extreme care so as not to damage the edges (and also avoid vertical storage).

Installation methods

There are two different ways PVC installations do-it-yourself windows: with and without disassembling the window unit.

This difference is due to two factors: the window mounting scheme and the weight of the structure.

The first option is more universal and allows window installation in any way.

The second method is used only in cases where the window block is fixed in the opening using anchor plates. It is used for the installation of fixed windows, or for mass installation of standard format windows in a T-shaped casing.

Obviously, window installation without disassembly is an order of magnitude faster than with disassembly. However, due to the fact that most assembled metal-plastic window units have significant weight, only the first option is recommended for self-installation.

Installation of plastic windows

In order to correctly install the window yourself, you should clearly understand the main rule of installation operations of this type: the effectiveness of the window depends not only on the quality of the double-glazed window, but also on the correct assembly of the entire structure of the window block, which includes several auxiliary subsystems.

In this case, “auxiliary subsystems” mean:

  • waterproofing;
  • additional seals;
  • slopes;
  • low tides;
  • platbands.

Particular attention should be paid to the position and protection of sealants. The figure on the right shows the basic layout of additional seals.

Please note that the seal around the outer perimeter of the window is installed only when installed in a reverse quarter. If the window is mounted in a conventional T-shaped casing (which is the most common case), then the slopes play the role of such a seal.

Now let’s look step by step at how to properly install PVC windows in wooden houses.

Removing old windows

When dismantling windows in houses made of timber and logs, special attention should be paid to the safety of the frame, since making a new one will not be cheap.

In cases where the previous installation was carried out correctly, and the frames were fastened using self-tapping screws, the dismantling sequence consists of only three operations: removing the fasteners, removing the window block and cleaning the casing from the remains of the mounting foam.

Some problems may arise if the old window was nailed, to remove which you may need an additional tool - a nail puller.

It is important to consider that before installing a new window, it is necessary to inspect the casing frame. Namely: it is necessary to check for cracks, chips, as well as the absence of signs of rotting or woodworm damage. If any of the listed factors are detected, the pigtail should be replaced with a new one.

Let us note that regarding the replacement of the frame, you can find many conflicting recommendations on the Internet, among which there are those that claim that when renovating old houses, windows with metal-plastic frames can be installed without the frame. We consider this approach to be incorrect, since even old log house Seasonal changes in humidity can create enough movement to cause the window to jam or even break.

Of all the types of wooden buildings, only a frame house can avoid installing a sliding casing, but even in this case, the installation of the window is carried out in a ready-made wooden frame.

Unlike stone houses, in wooden buildings There is rarely a need for “pothole” repair of the installation site, since the casing almost always provides an even rectangular opening for fixing a new window.

The only exception may be a situation when it is necessary to insert a window whose dimensions are smaller than the previous one (the need for such a replacement often arises when renovating a bathhouse). In this case, preparing the internal opening consists of increasing the thickness of the casing strips.

Frame fitting

The most common mistake made when installing Euro windows with your own hands is taking the original dimensions incorrectly.

Therefore, before you start fixing the window, you need to make sure that it actually matches the installation opening.

Fitting the frame is simple - 1.5-2 cm thick supports are placed on the bottom casing strip. The frame is installed on them, after which a visual assessment of the remaining gaps is performed.

If in any part of the window they exceed 2.5 cm, you need to think about correcting the geometric dimensions of the frame with the help of extensions.

Let us separately note one nuance - if the size of the gap between the frame and the casing is more than 2 cm, but less minimum thickness available expander, then there is a temptation to blow it out with foam without any size correction. Many people do this, after which they cannot understand why the expensive PVC window blows so cold.

It is important to remember: polyurethane foam is not a full-fledged heat insulator, and in no case can it act as a substitute for a window profile.

Window frame installation

Once the size of the frame and the opening have been matched, you can begin the main operations.

Let's list them step by step:

  1. Initial positioning. It is carried out in the same way as fitting: the frame is installed on centering pegs, after which it is necessary to achieve a uniform thickness of the installation gap along the entire perimeter of the frame.
  2. Alignment of spatial position. For positioning in the vertical plane it is better to use a plumb line, in the horizontal plane - a building level. Working fixation is performed using side and top struts.
  3. After the installation accuracy has been confirmed, secure the vertical points first, and only after additional check - the lateral ones. As mentioned above, fastenings can be long screws or anchor plates.
  4. Immediately after completing the fastening, we recommend installing the drip sill, since after assembling the window, access to the corresponding mounting positions will be difficult (this point is especially relevant for windows located on the second floor).
  5. Installation of window sashes on workplaces.
  6. Installation of double-glazed windows. note that glass panel cannot be placed directly on the plastic of the sash (special gaskets must be preserved during dismantling).
  7. Fixing double-glazed windows with glazing beads (in reverse order).
  8. Close the doors and check the positioning again.
  9. We carry out installation of fittings.

Let us remind you once again what you need to pay special attention to when installing the frame:

  • position of the transverse line of the window - for wooden houses it should run exactly along the center of the frame;
  • the length of the fastening dowels (if the through-fixation method is used) should not exceed the total thickness of the frame and casing boards;
  • To secure the outer “tails” of the anchor plates, use fasteners whose length is less than the thickness of the casing frame boards.

Window foaming

The next step is to fill the installation gap with foam. Despite its apparent simplicity, this stage has several technical features:

  1. Polyurethane foam expands during polymerization and the force created by this can deform the metal-plastic profile. Therefore, blowing should only be done on a fully assembled and closed window.
  2. If you plan to use a tape version of waterproofing, it is much more convenient to immediately line the installation gap area from the outside of the frame.
  3. To simplify the installation of the vapor barrier, we recommend cutting the tape and fixing it on the window frame.

Blowing is done from the inside, after which the seam is immediately sealed with pre-installed pieces of vapor barrier tape.

Possible problems if windows are installed incorrectly

Avoiding lengthy discussions on the topic “which windows are better to install so that the savings are truly economical,” let’s formulate a simple rule: any window, even the most expensive, will not provide the declared characteristics if it is installed incorrectly.

Therefore, in addition to strictly following the above recommendations, you must avoid the following mistakes:

  • incorrect position of the window according to the thickness of the frame. The consequence of the error is freezing and condensation. For classic houses Windows made of wood are installed along the center line. In cases where the house is lined with brick or lined with thermal insulation, we recommend contacting specialists to calculate the position of the window;
  • lack of seasonal adjustment. The consequence of the error is a violation of air exchange standards. In those windows where this is possible, adjustment is performed using splines placed in the desired position.

The Master Srubov company accepts orders for finishing, repair and restoration of log and lumber buildings, including the installation or replacement of windows. You can clarify the details of cooperation and order a surveyor’s visit by contacting our specialists using any of the communication methods published on the page.

Inserting a plastic window into a wooden house is not as difficult as it might seem: if you know some of the technical details, even a non-professional will be able to do it. It must be remembered that wood is a special living material, and all work must be carried out taking into account the future shrinkage of the house. Therefore, the technology for installing a plastic window in this case will be slightly different from standard installation. Let's look at each stage in detail.

Creating and preparing a window opening

How to properly install a plastic window in a wooden house? The success of the work depends, first of all, on a well-prepared opening: most often in a wooden house it is cut after the frame has been assembled, but sometimes it is done during the construction stage. In the first case, you can proceed to the preparation of openings only after the completion of the main shrinkage, that is, a year and a half after construction. The contours of the hole are drawn using a plumb line and level, and then very carefully cut with a chainsaw.

It is advisable to apply the markings at the stage of assembling the house, so that there are no dowels in the openings. The calculation is made so that the upper and lower logs are cut in half: this will allow you to easily install the casing on flat horizontal surfaces. When preparing the opening, it is necessary to take into account the size of the casing. Therefore, the width should be 14 cm larger than the frame dimensions, at least 12–14 cm larger at the top, and 7 cm larger at the bottom for installing a window sill and a layer of polyurethane foam.

If the opening is prepared at the assembly stage, it should be 10% smaller in width than planned. This is necessary; after the logs dry, it will take on the specified value. If you immediately give it standard size, after shrinking it will be larger than necessary.

Before inserting plastic windows into a wooden house, you should carefully treat all the end parts of the logs and cover them with an antiseptic to protect them from rotting. In addition, the wood needs to be sanded to ensure a smooth surface. Often it has to be leveled in height: wooden houses rarely remain perfectly level after shrinkage. To ensure the frame fits correctly, the hole must be aligned using laser level and plumb line.

Casing installation

If you want to understand how to properly insert plastic windows into a log house, it is important to understand the installation of the casing. This design is also commonly called a window frame: it is designed to protect the window opening from the effects of shrinkage. The frame is an additional frame that is mounted to the end parts of the opening logs according to the sliding principle: the logs will gradually fall along it and will not cause harm to the frame.

To create a moving connection, several installation options are possible:

  • A rectangular groove 5 cm wide and deep is cut out in the end part of the logs and in the side parts of the casing. A block of the same size, wrapped in insulation, is inserted into it. When lowering, the logs will gradually slide along the block, the casing will remain in place, and the window blocks will not be damaged.
  • A groove 5 cm deep and wide is cut out of the logs, and a T-shaped structure of a timber frame is inserted into it. The tenon should fit tightly into the groove; to get rid of squeaking, it should be wrapped in insulation.
  • There is also a reverse option: a tenon is cut out in the logs of the opening, and a socket groove is mounted on it.

In all cases, the vertical elements are installed first, and the upper and lower horizontal boards are mounted to them. In some cases, the pigtail is installed without the lower part. A gap of approximately 7 cm is left above the top board: it will gradually decrease as the walls are lowered and will completely disappear after a few years. For a while it is filled with insulation so that the heat does not escape outside.

The casing box must not be installed on mounting foam; it must not be used to fill the upper gap. This is an inelastic material, it will not shrink, so the casing will simply lose its meaning and will sink along with the house itself, breaking the frames.

Okosyachka, like the others wooden elements, treated with an antiseptic. After the protective layer has dried, it is ready to install the plastic block.

Design selection criteria

When deciding how to properly insert plastic windows into a wooden house made of timber or logs, you need to study the manufacturers' proposals. Plastic window systems are selected according to several parameters:

  1. The number of chambers in the profile determines the thermal efficiency. Manufacturers offer three-, four- and five-chamber profiles. A four-chamber will be quite sufficient for the conditions middle zone: thanks to the air layers, it will not freeze and will be quite durable.
  2. Type of glass unit. The more air chambers and sheets of glass it has, the more powerful a heat insulator it will be. However, three-chamber double-glazed windows are very expensive, and they have heavy weight and require high-quality fittings.
  3. Type of fittings. You cannot save money by choosing a set of accessories. The performance of the handle, the ability to select operating modes, as well as the strength of the frame itself depend on it. If you choose a cheap option, very soon the window will begin to sag and will not close well.
  4. Manufacturer. Classic option The original German systems Rehau, KBE and others are considered to guarantee excellent quality. However, their complete analogues are now being manufactured in Russia, which cost significantly less. In addition, we must remember that it is more profitable to purchase any products and designs directly from the manufacturer, in which case they cost a significantly lower amount.

In addition to the frames themselves, you need to purchase handles, ebbs, window sills, additional accessories, as well as trims that will cover the installation seam. Typically, installation companies offer a complete installation kit along with the window unit. It can be supplemented with anti-burglary fittings, special child locks, a “comb” for ventilation, etc.

Window sill installation

Dust and debris are removed from the opening with the casing already installed, and the surface is cleaned. After this, a window sill is installed: it is the base for the window, so it needs to be mounted as evenly and accurately as possible. To install it, you need to make 8 mm notches in the window frame; the window sill itself is attached to the bottom of the casing or the bottom log with self-tapping screws. It is advisable to place special washers under them so that the plastic does not begin to crack.

The window sill must be strictly horizontal, so after installation it is checked with a building level. If there are any deviations, plastic or wooden wedges are placed under it.

After installing the frame, the places where the screws are attached will be invisible; they will be completely hidden by the box. The window sill can be not only plastic: it is made from natural or artificial stone, wood, other materials.

Frame installation

How to properly install plastic windows in a wooden house? When everything is finished preparatory work, you can proceed directly to the installation of the window system. Protective film it is not removed until the very end of the process, this is guaranteed to protect it from damage. A handle is pre-attached to the frame, as shown in the instructions supplied by the manufacturers; sashes with double-glazed windows can be removed during installation; working with an empty frame is much easier.

The step-by-step installation process is as follows:

  1. 4 holes are drilled in the side posts of the casing and in the side parts of the window for installation fastening elements. The distance from the top and bottom edges to the hole should be 25–30 cm; this arrangement of fasteners will ensure even distribution of the load.
  2. The window frame is placed in the opening, after which it is leveled using a building level, a plumb line and spacer bars. When it takes a perfectly level position, it is attached to the casing using long self-tapping screws.
  3. Important! Self-tapping screws should not pass through the casing and screw into the wall. The block is attached exclusively to the casing, otherwise its installation will be useless, and the plastic block will suffer from shrinkage. The casing is connected to the house movably, and the logs will gradually take their places, while the window frame must be motionless.

  4. The doors with double-glazed windows are placed in the box. It is important to make sure that the frame is not skewed and that the doors open and close freely and clearly.
  5. After all checks, the spacer bars are removed, and the space between the casing and the box is filled with polyurethane foam. After drying, it will provide an airtight seal and will reliably protect your home from the cold.
  6. The last stage of work is the installation of the ebb tide: it will drain rainwater from the wall and will prevent moisture from entering the house. Low tide is cut to the right size and is attached using self-tapping screws. The seams filled with polyurethane foam are covered with decorative trims.

Knowing how to properly insert double-glazed windows in a wooden house, you can completely glaze the building without the help of specialists. Window designs made of plastic with correct installation They serve for a long time and perfectly protect the building from the cold, and coping with this work is not so difficult.

The thickness of the polyurethane foam layer should be at least 2 cm; you cannot skimp on it. For greater reliability and tightness of the connection, the space under the window sill can be coated with a special silicone sealant. This is good additional protection from blowing.

In any case, the polyurethane foam will have to be protected from sunlight: it is destroyed under the influence of ultraviolet rays. They will help carved frames or decorative shutters that can become important element home decorations.

All installation work is recommended to be carried out at positive temperatures. Plastic changes its structure when severe frosts: At -10 and below, it becomes brittle and can get damaged very easily. To avoid unnecessary problems, choose the right time for installation.

Installation of plastic window blocks requires increased attention to the correct angles, compliance with vertical and horizontal lines. Even a slight misalignment can subsequently lead to increased load on the fittings, which will negatively affect the operation of the entire structure. If the doors are skewed, they will begin to creak and close poorly, and the hinges will quickly become unusable.

And once again: installing windows cannot be done immediately after building a wooden house, even if it is built from dried lumber. It will take at least six months for the logs to finally take their places, then the installation will be safe.

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You can find out detailed and expanded information on the topic of the article from the book “Wooden Houses,” which reflects all stages of building a house, from laying the foundation to installing the roof. Book price = 77 rubles.