Has come to an end summer season, but, my dear summer residents, this does not mean at all that we can now relax and sit back. You will be drinking tea with jam and looking at summer photos in winter, but for now you need to prepare for it.
In the garden in October there's still a lot of work to do. We are slowly preparing the beds so that we can just sow them in the spring. If you have been planning to plant trees or bushes all summer, but have just acquired them, plant them, don’t delay.
But in the mode of chronic time pressure, you can (and this is sometimes more correct!) bury the seedlings. This way they will survive the winter well, and in the spring you can plant them in pre-prepared holes.
This is better than making all the mistakes and dooming the plant to a difficult winter. And in general, don’t do everything in a hurry, think through the planting and work in advance, because it’s more expensive to redo it later. In general, we still need more than one fine day to work in the garden and in the garden.
At the beginning of October, the warm days of golden autumn can still please us with their bright bliss. This is the time when leaves fall from the trees and cover the cooling earth with a lush, warm carpet.
And at the end of the month, “manna” from heaven is already pouring into the beds. And then even the most persistent summer residents will want the comfort of home.
The summer was generous, there was enough warmth for us, the flowers, and the harvest. And now we need to have time to prepare the areas for winter so that frost does not spoil the bushes and trees or destroy perennials.
So what do we need to do to new season I was pleased with the excellent harvest and I didn’t want to miss anything.
October - “Garden Month”
There is a dance of falling leaves in the garden. How wisely nature works! To prevent the roots from freezing in the ground, the trees themselves make sure that they are at least a little warmer.
From this observation, you and I, dear summer residents, can draw a very useful conclusion: before the arrival of winter, it is good to cover perennials featherbed of fallen leaves. Birch foliage is best suited for this.
If you have not yet completed them, hurry to do them in the first half of October, because frost is just around the corner.
Harvesting the last harvest of apples and pears of late varieties
To preserve them longer, we collect the fruits dry, immediately after the dew has subsided, and always with the stalk. We carefully inspect the harvested crop and place all the fruits that do not have mechanical or other damage in boxes lined with paper, sprinkle with sawdust, or you can wrap each fruit in parchment paper or paper napkins, which will significantly improve the storage mode, since if any If the fruit rots, it will not infect the rest.
I advise you to first place the boxes with fruits in the barn, and only then, with the onset of cold weather, move them to the basement, where they will continue to be stored at low positive temperatures.
If we immediately put apples and pears taken from the tree into storage, then due to the temperature difference the fruits may become sweaty and the likelihood of their spoilage increases. It is best to place boxes in the basement when the temperatures in the basement and outside are equal.
Early October we are finishing the harvesting of chokeberries. Its berries make excellent jam, as well as jams and juices.
We are also finishing cleaning remontant raspberry varieties.
The last of fruit crops remove the quince, since it ripens quite late - only in mid-October. It is inedible fresh because the pulp is very hard, but there are still lovers who really like it, especially for its unique aroma.
But from quince you can make processed products that taste amazing: preserves, jams, marmalade, juice with pulp.
Seedlings fruit trees in the nursery
We continue planting fruit trees and shrubs, but we try to complete it before mid-October, since plants planted later are at risk.
Autumn is the best time to buy planting material. At this time, mass digging of seedlings takes place in all nurseries, so in the fall there is the most diverse and large assortment of planting material and, accordingly, best opportunities for selection.
Only one remains for spring planting material, which they couldn’t sell in the fall.
If you are planning to rejuvenate or expand your garden, then purchase seedlings now, in the fall. Winter-hardy varieties apple trees, raspberries, currants, gooseberries are best planted immediately permanent place. And it would be better to dig up seedlings of other less winter-hardy fruit crops for spring planting.
Many amateur gardeners still prefer to buy seedlings in the spring because they do not know how to properly preserve them until spring. And it's not that difficult.
To ensure that the seedlings are well preserved until spring, bury them in your area, choosing a well-warmed place for this. high place, which will not be flooded with melt water either in spring or in winter during thaws.
Then, in the selected area, we dig a ditch in the direction from east to west, about 50 cm deep and 100-120 cm wide (dimensions depend on the size of the seedlings).
We make the southern wall of the ditch inclined, and put the excavated earth on the northern side. We lay the planting material obliquely in one row, so that the entire root system and a third of the trunk are in the groove.
The crown should be oriented to the south. This arrangement greatly reduces the risk of the stems of seedlings getting burns from the bright sun in February-March. Gently spread the roots along the southern sloping wall of the groove.
Just remember to write down the sequence of varieties and the quantity of each variety in the direction from east to west. Then in the spring you can easily determine the varietal identity of each seedling. To be on the safe side, you can also hang a thick foil label on each seedling with the name of the variety embossed on it.
Now you can cover the seedlings with soil, pressing it firmly to the roots. If the weather is dry at this time, then the soil should be well watered.
General lawn cleaning
Winter is the hardest time for the lawn, so we will try to prepare it well for the cold weather.
If after the last cutting the grass has grown a lot, then it is necessary to trim it, but not too short, leaving a height of 5-8 cm.
Sprinkle the seeds onto the resulting “bald patches”. The ants will not have time to take them away, and in the spring the seeds will have time to sprout before the first cutting.
Be sure to feed the lawn with potassium fertilizers, thanks to which our lawn can safely survive even severe frosts.
There is no place for fallen leaves, grass felt and debris on the lawn, so we take a frequent rake and thoroughly “comb” your lawn.
If the autumn was too rainy, then it is necessary to pierce the turf with a pitchfork to the maximum possible depth. This is done in order to drain excess water into the lower layers of the soil.
Otherwise, as soon as frost hits, the wet lawn will be covered with an ice crust, and by spring unsightly bald spots will form on it.
October pruning
There are plants that do not tolerate spring pruning well. These are many berry plants, including actinidia, in which sap flow begins early in the spring.
Therefore, it is better to prune them at the beginning of October, since by this time the plants have finished all their vital processes and are ready for winter. But there is still time for wounds to heal (before the onset of stable frosts).
We talked about pruning currants, gooseberries, and raspberries in previous articles, so now we’ll find out how to do it annual pruning actinidia. Actinidia pruning procedure:
first we cut out all the thin and broken shoots, and then the weak ones that thicken the crown;
we remove 1-2 vines that have been bearing fruit for 3 years, cutting them down to a powerful branch of a young vine located lower to the ground;
shorten vegetative shoots to required length when they occupy what is meant for them free space on a support;
we prune generative-vegetative shoots that form on last year’s growths to 30 cm in length;
We evenly distribute all the shoots remaining on the vine on the trellis, so that in the future they can grow freely and diffused light passes through them in a leafy state.
Work in the garden
Gardeners are trying to complete everything by mid-October seasonal work, because not everyone had enough time in September to deal with harvesting and preparing the garden for winter.
Harvesting late vegetables
At the beginning of the month we dig up the remains of the colored one, and then, after the Intercession, and later white cabbage. We cut down the heads of cabbage and take them away from the garden.
If frozen water and ice are found at the top of the leaves, then remove the covering leaves, dry the heads of cabbage and store them.
And if there are pockets of rot, fill them with a mixture of sand, slaked lime and chalk. After white cabbage, we begin harvesting late Brussels sprouts. To preserve Brussels sprouts better and longer, it is recommended to dig them up with their roots and bury them in the basement in a large, deep box in wet sand or hang it upside down on the crossbar. The temperature in the basement must be maintained at +1...+2 degrees.
Having allocated the cabbage for storage, we return to the site and dig up all the stumps with roots remaining in the ground. Don't leave a single root in the ground!
And the point here is not only the cleanliness of the area (although this is also very important), but also the fact that cabbage fly larvae overwinter on the roots of the cabbage. And if we don’t remove the stumps, then in the spring, as soon as the ground thaws, these larvae will warm up and begin a feast on the same roots, unnoticed by us summer residents.
And in June, as soon as we plant fresh cabbage seedlings, she will be attacked by young, newly hatched cabbage flies.
We dig up radishes, parsnips and celery, and small root vegetables of parsley and celery can be left until winter, so that in early spring you can have fresh herbs on your table.
At the end of the month we collect Jerusalem artichoke tubers. Be sure to leave some of the tubers in the ground for the winter - new plants will grow from them in the spring. Jerusalem artichoke grows well in one place for no more than 5 years, then it is better to transplant it to a new place. It is better to store the tubers in the basement, layering them with earth so that they do not dry out.
After the onset of frost, you can dig up horseradish, because by this time the plant has accumulated greatest number nutrients and it turns out aromatic, sweetish and not so vigorous. We select the roots cleanly, otherwise the horseradish will grow throughout the entire area, dry them and put them in the refrigerator in a plastic bag.
To dig or not to dig?
Another mandatory autumn procedure is digging up the soil. Although increasingly Lately there are doubts about its feasibility. Many supporters of natural farming believe that digging up the soil leads to the death of beneficial soil microorganisms and promotes the growth of weed seeds. And our attempt to give the roots air sometimes destroys these very roots.
To understand whether to dig or not to dig the ground, of course, it is best to experiment yourself. But you should still take into account the type of soil. For example, heavy clay and uncultivated soils require autumn digging. While light and loose soils require deep loosening using a flat cutter.
Tilling the soil in the garden should begin immediately after harvesting, carefully removing weeds and applying the necessary fertilizers.
But if we still decide to experiment, then let’s take several beds for our experiment and, without digging, process them with a flat cutter, and then cover them with a thick, even layer of mulch (hay and straw), level them well and compact them.
The layer should be at least 10 cm. This is not so much, since in the spring, when the snow melts, this layer will not be so large.
From autumn until spring, under this layer they will actually be preserved. ideal conditions for the active growth of soil microflora, which will inhibit the development of pathogenic microbes.
In addition, they will “fatten” earthworms, which in the process of their life activity provide nutrition to the soil and loosen it.
Proponents of natural farming believe that in the spring, seedlings and seeds should be planted without removing the mulch layer, but only lightly raking the mulch and digging holes for the seedlings.
And we sow the seeds in this way: we rake the mulch, make furrows, put the seeds in them, lightly sprinkle them with earth, and then return the layer of mulch to its place.
Under such a layer of mulch, moisture is well retained, so seeds and seedlings can be watered less often, and in early spring there is no need to water at all, since mulch retains snow moisture well in the soil.
Also, a favorable microclimate is created under the mulch, which promotes rapid seed germination and rooting of seedlings.
Finally, decomposing mulch provides excellent root feeding. And all this with minimal costs for fertilizer and watering. Moreover, we will save our energy, and this is very important for any summer resident.
Getting ready for winter sowing
In the first half of October, we plant winter garlic in previously prepared beds.
In areas with unstable, frequently changing weather, it is very difficult to guess the timing of planting, but the plants must have time to take root well, but at the same time not produce green shoots, otherwise they may freeze. And later plantings may also suffer from frost, as they do not have time to form root system.
It is best to plant garlic at a time when the average daily air temperature no longer rises above 10 degrees.
For planting we use garlic cloves, bulbs and single cloves. We plant the cloves to a depth equal to three times the diameter of the clove or bulb.
After the soil on the garlic plantings has lightly frozen, it is advisable to mulch them with peat compost or cover them with a small layer of fallen leaves.
From mid-October to early November we begin sowing vegetable crops before winter: carrots, parsley, dill, lettuce, spinach, radishes, turnips, rutabaga, celery, onion seeds for turnips.
It is best to start sowing in the pre-winter period, when the soil temperature drops to 2-3 degrees, and experienced vegetable growers sow already when the soil begins to freeze 2-5 cm in depth and only thaws slightly during the day. Of course, we will prepare the beds in advance in September and cover them with covering material so that the furrows are not washed away by rain.
It is very important that seedlings do not appear in the fall, since in this case they will freeze.
But if the seeds go ungerminated before winter, then neither winter frosts, nor the spring cold snap will have a detrimental effect on the crops. And in early spring, more friendly and even shoots will appear, and the harvest can be obtained 2-3 weeks earlier than with spring sowing.
Another plus winter sowing is that in the spring we will have free time to carry out other work and sow other crops at more favorable times.
It is important to pay attention to following rules for winter sowing:
We choose high areas with loose, fertile soil, which quickly dry out in the spring, warm up, and most importantly, do not flood.
We sow the seeds dry.
The seeding rate should be higher than in spring, since most likely not all seeds will germinate.
We sprinkle the seeds not with soil, but with a mixture of good humus and sand, which must be prepared in advance. The top of the planting can also be covered with dry leaves.
Digging up useful roots
Let's choose a nice day in early October and start collecting roots medicinal plants that grow in or near the garden. This is the best time to collect the roots of dandelion, burdock, wheatgrass, chicory, angelica and calamus.
We wash the dug roots in running water, blot with a napkin. Then we cut them into cubes and dry them in a well-ventilated area. Store dry roots in kitchen cabinet in a tightly closed glass jar no more than three years.
It is also important to do:
We remove and burn vegetable waste
We dig up (in the second ten days of October) old trees that are no longer bearing fruit, while trying not to leave roots in the soil. Then you can saw them and burn them. Next you need to treat with a solution copper sulfate(2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water) soil in the places where they grew and dig it up. In place of dug up old trees, fruit crops should not be planted for 3 years, but it is better to sow legumes (peas, beans, lupine). Seedlings can be grown nearby.
We will feed those plants that we did not have time to feed at the end of September, then, if autumn is dry, we will carry out autumn moisture-recharging watering of berries and fruit crops, and ornamental perennials.
We weed rhubarb, sorrel, asparagus, spring onions and other perennial crops, pick off old leaves, loosen them and feed them. To do this, it is best to mulch them with compost with a layer of 2-3 cm. You can apply complex mineral fertilizer around the plants, in the furrows, and immediately incorporate them into the soil.
If your garden is located on a slope, then in order to prevent soil loss, we dig deep intermittent furrows across the slope or make earthen rolls.
We prepare holes for planting seedlings in the spring and fill them with fertilizers.
Let's prepare the soil in the beds for spring sowing - add potassium and phosphorus, manure, and ash. It is good to cover the finished beds with black film to protect the soil and provide better warming in the spring.
You don’t have to weed beds that are heavily overgrown with weeds, but simply cover them with a dark film and the weeds themselves will die next season.
We drain the water from the vessels, barrels, drain the water from the pipes, fold the hoses and bring everything into the utility room.
We remove all plant debris, dry fallen leaves and tops and put everything in compost heaps.
We clean ditches, gutters, drainage system from pollution. If necessary, we repair the drainage system, water supply system, paths, and buildings.
On a dry sunny day, we will collect all the sticks and supports that we placed for tomatoes, beans and other crops. They will still be useful to us in the future summer season. Before putting them under the canopy, treat them with a solution of copper sulfate and dry them thoroughly.
Regularly, starting in October, we inspect stored cabbage, root vegetables and potatoes and remove spoiled fruits.
We hang bird feeders in the garden.
We tightly tie the trunks of young trees with spruce spruce branches, roofing felt, synthetic bags, deepening the lower end of the tie into the ground. Just do not use straw or reeds for tying, as they are an excellent shelter for the overwintering of many harmful insects.
That's probably all the main work. The work at the dacha this season is almost complete and now you can relax a little.
See you soon, dear friends!
Country lunar calendar for 2011 Kizima Galina Aleksandrovna
What to do in October?
What to do in October?
1. At the beginning of the month it is time to plant tulips and hyacinths. Make trenches and add well-rotted compost into them. Then pour a layer of sand of at least 2-3 cm (necessarily coarse for hyacinths). Lay out the bulbs and completely cover them first with sand, and then with any moisture- and breathable soil to 2-3 heights of the bulb. High-moor peat is most suitable for this. You should not cover it with sawdust; it is better to use sand.
I add a few granules of fertilizer under the bottom of each bulb. AVA. It is very convenient to plant tulips in plastic lattice fruit boxes. To prevent weeds from growing inside the box, its sides can be lined with old plastic film without covering the bottom for drainage excess water and root growth. Place the boxes on a layer in the trench fertile soil depth 12-15 cm (the root system of tulips is small). Then pour sand into the boxes, lay out the bulbs, placing fertilizer under the bottom of each. If you don’t have the fertilizer mentioned above, add a teaspoon of ash and mix with sand. Cover the bulbs with sand and cover the top of the boxes with a layer of peat. Try to purchase boxes of the same size - then you can dig a trench of the same depth. It is important that there is at least 10-12 cm of cover above the planted bulbs. With this planting, tulips can be left undigged for 4-6 years, and they will not “go” to great depths.
In order for tulip flowers to ripen, a temperature of at least +20 °C is required, so the plantings should be in the sun.
Hyacinths are not planted in boxes. They require annual digging and drying.
2. Usually in the fall it is recommended to dig tree trunk circles under trees and bushes to destroy pests wintering in the soil. I repeat once again, this is not necessary, since digging ruins the soil. I don't dig it up. On the contrary, I fill up the tree trunk circles with weeds and unrotted compost, especially around the perimeter of the crown, where the zone of sucking roots is located. In the center, near the trunk itself, there are no sucking roots that are damaged by frost. There are only “plumbing and sewerage” systems, that is, conducting roots. They are as winter-hardy as wood. I do not remove all the fallen leaves, but pile them into circles around the trunk, deeply burying the pests.
3. I destroy pathogens and pests by late (late October) spraying of trees and bushes with a solution of any mineral fertilizer high concentration. The easiest way to do this is to use urea, taking 500-700 g of fertilizer per 10 liters of water. If the leaves have not yet fallen, spray directly over them. We must force them to give everything they have accumulated to the plants and die off. Spray the ends of the branches especially carefully - aphids lay eggs on them. Walk well over all branches, trunk and soil in tree trunk circles. In early spring(at the end of March) this procedure should be repeated.
4. If autumn is dry, the garden must be well watered. Plants that go into winter dehydrated, especially annual new growth, can dry out from frost.
5. At the end of the month, rotted manure and compost can be applied under the bushes and trees. Under peonies and other perennial flowers - humus, but also along the perimeter of the crown, and not in the center. An additional half bucket of ash should be added under the cherries and plums.
6. You have to cut it off at the end of the month. perennial asters and chrysanthemums and also add ash under them, at least a glass per plant.
7. It's time to put shelters over roses, clematis, and also to plant peonies, oriental hybrids (lilies), chrysanthemums, and irises.
8. In the last days of the month, you can carry out an event to clean the trunks and branches of lichens. To do this, you need to spray them with a 7-10 percent solution of iron sulfate (about 3 level tablespoons per 1 liter of water). Literally in 3-4 days the lichens will fall off on their own. Such spraying should never be done during the growing season.
9. Is it necessary to apply manure or rotted compost to the tree trunks? Organic matter, including manure, must be added after the end of sap flow, otherwise it may cause unwanted branch growth at such a late time. But it should be applied not to the tree trunk circles, but along the perimeter of the crown, where the sucking roots are located.
10. What to do if at the end of summer you did not add the phosphorus and potassium necessary for root growth? As they say, the train has left. Now there is no point in applying these fertilizers. The only thing that can be done is to add fertilizer to the soil. AVA, because it does not dissolve in water and, accordingly, is not washed out of the soil by either autumn or spring waters.
11. You can dig up celery root, leeks and cut Brussels sprouts and cabbage.
12. The most the right time for trimming berries and orchard- it's late autumn. Wounds after pruning must first be lubricated with brilliant green or hydrogen peroxide, and then with either natural oil paint, either bitumen or very liquid garden pitch.
This text is an introductory fragment. From the book Dacha. What and how can you grow? author Bannikov Evgeniy AnatolievichWhat to do in case of frosts The headache of gardeners is spring and autumn frosts. Frosts damage flowers and ovaries on fruit trees, strawberry bushes, currants, and the pumpkin does not tolerate them at all - it dies. The most dangerous frosts for plants are
From the book Country Lunar Calendar for 2011 authorWhat to do in April? As soon as the coltsfoot blooms, you can sow all cold-resistant crops in the soil: carrots, lettuce, spinach, dill, nigella onions. It is believed that the most suitable time for this is from April 10 to 12, as well as from April 25 to 27. On these same days you can sow seedlings
From the book Gardener's Lunar Calendar 2011 author Malakhov Gennady PetrovichWhat to do in May? 1. It is very useful to spray all plants at the moment of unfurling the leaves with a “spring cocktail”, which is prepared as follows: two grains of Healthy Garden (to normalize plant cell sap) and Ecoberin (to protect against adverse atmospheric conditions).
From the book Country Lunar Calendar for 2013 author Kizima Galina AlexandrovnaWhat to do in November? 1. Leaves often do not fall from trees. This is bad, because the first snow can break the branches. To prevent this from happening, you will have to shake it off, especially since the snow usually falls wet and heavy at the beginning of winter. Broken branches should be cut off immediately, and
From the book Country Lunar Calendar for 2014 author Kizima Galina AlexandrovnaWhat to do in December? 1. Wet snow can break branches, so it should be shaken off the trees. Broken branches should be cut off immediately and the cut area should be lubricated with brilliant green. In the spring you will need to additionally clean the areas of damage and cover them with ordinary oil.
From the book Country Lunar Calendar for 2015 author Kizima Galina AlexandrovnaGarden and vegetable garden in October It has become noticeably colder. The temperature drops sharply. The day has shortened. There are frosts in the mornings, and sometimes snow falls at the end of the month. Folk signs If on October 1 (martyr Irina) the cranes fly south, then on Pokrov (October 14) there will be frost; if not -
From the book Garden and Vegetable Garden: We do everything on time. We sow, fertilize, collect author Kizima Galina AlexandrovnaMain work in October 1. It is usually recommended to do autumn digging of trunk circles under trees and bushes to destroy pests overwintering in the soil. I repeat once again: this is not necessary, since digging destroys the soil. I don't dig it up. Vice versa,
Calendar of work in the garden and vegetable garden in October. Work at the dacha in October. What needs to be done in the garden in October. Everything you need to do at the dacha in October.
List of works in the garden and vegetable garden for October
1. It is usually recommended to do autumn digging of trunk circles under trees and bushes to destroy pests overwintering in the soil. I don’t do this because I am convinced that any unnecessary digging ruins the soil. On the contrary, I fill up the tree trunk circles with weeds and unrotted compost, especially around the perimeter of the crown, where the zone of sucking roots is located. Pests find themselves deeply buried under this layer. I also do not remove all fallen leaves, but pile them into circles around the trunk.
I destroy pathogens and pests by late (late October) spraying of trees, bushes and the soil under them with a solution of any high-concentration mineral fertilizer. The easiest way to do this is to use urea (carbomide), taking 500-700 g of fertilizer per 10 liters of water. If the leaves have not yet fallen, spray directly over them, especially carefully spray the ends of the branches - aphids lay eggs on them. Walk well over all branches, trunk and soil in tree trunk circles. In early spring (late March) this procedure should be repeated.
2. If it is a dry autumn, the garden must be well watered. If plants go into winter dehydrated, they may dry out from frost, especially annual new growth.
3. At the end of the month, you can apply rotted manure and compost, not only under bushes and trees, but also under peonies and other perennial flowers, but also along the perimeter of the crown, and not in the center.
4. An additional third of a bucket of ash should be added under the cherries and plums. Even half a bucket won't hurt. It is even better to use dolomite or chalk instead of ash, but its rate must be reduced by 3 times.
5. At the end of the month, you need to cut off perennial asters and chrysanthemums. It's time to put shelters over roses and clematis. It's time to plant peonies, oriental hybrids (lilies), chrysanthemums, and irises.
6. In the last days of the month, you can carry out an event to clean the trunks and branches of lichens. To do this, you need to spray them with a 7-10% solution of iron sulfate (about three level tablespoons per liter of water). Literally in 3-4 days the lichens will fall off on their own. Such spraying should never be done during the growing season.
Folk weather signs for October
❧ If migratory birds If they fly away at the beginning of the month, then winter will come quickly and it will be cold. If the birds are in no hurry to fly away, then the autumn will be long and warm, and the winter will be mild. After the cranes leave, night frosts will strike three weeks later.
❧ If the leaves fall quickly, it will soon get colder and the winter will be harsh, and if the leaves remain green and stay on the trees for a long time, then the winter will be warm, with some short frosts.
❧ If at the end of October the horns of the month are oriented to the north, then it will be dry and snow will fall quickly, and if they are directed to the south, then there will be slush until November.
Weather for tomorrow
❧ Clouds move from north to south for sunny weather, and from south to north for bad weather.
❧ If the moon seems cloudy and pale, then there will be rain and snow, and frosts are possible.
❧ If the jackdaws gather and scream, then the weather will be clear.
What to do in October. Tip 1 It is usually recommended to dig up tree trunks under trees and bushes in the fall to destroy pests overwintering in the soil. But this should not be done, since digging ruins the soil. Experienced gardeners don't dig up. On the contrary, the tree trunk circles are filled with weeds and unrotted compost, especially along the perimeter of the crown, where the zone of sucking roots is located. In the center, near the trunk itself, there are no sucking roots that are damaged by frost; there is only a “plumbing and sewerage” system, i.e., conducting roots. They are as winter-hardy as wood. They also do not remove all fallen leaves, but pile them into circles around the trunk. Pests find themselves deeply buried under this layer. Tip 2 Pathogens and pests are destroyed by late (late October) spraying of trees and bushes with a solution of any highly concentrated mineral fertilizer. The easiest way to do this is to use urea, taking 500-700 g of fertilizer per 10 liters of water. If the leaves have not yet fallen, spray directly over them. We must force them to give everything they have accumulated to the plants and die off. Spray the ends of the branches especially carefully - aphids lay eggs on them. Walk well over all branches, trunk and soil in tree trunk circles. In early spring (late March) this procedure should be repeated. Tip 3 If it’s a dry autumn, the garden must be well-watered. If plants go into winter dehydrated, they may dry out from frost, especially annual new growth. Tip 4 At the end of the month, you can apply rotted manure and compost under the bushes and trees, you can add humus under peonies and other perennial flowers, but also along the perimeter of the crown, and not in the center. An additional half bucket of ash should be added under the cherries and plums. Tip 5 At the end of the month, you need to cut off perennial asters and chrysanthemums and also add ash under them, at least a cup per plant. Tip 6 It's time to put shelters over roses, clematis, and also plant peonies, oriental hybrids (lilies), chrysanthemums, and irises. Tip 7 In the last days of the month, you can carry out an event to clean the trunks and branches of lichens. To do this, you need to spray them with a 7-10% solution of iron sulfate (about three level tablespoons per liter of water). Literally in 3-4 days the lichens will fall off on their own. Such spraying should never be done during the growing season. Tip 8 Is it necessary to add manure or rotted compost to the tree trunks? Organic matter, including manure, must be added after the end of sap flow, otherwise it may cause unwanted branch growth at such a late time. But it should be applied not to the tree trunk circles, but along the perimeter of the crown - where the sucking roots are located. Tip 9 What to do if at the end of summer you did not add the phosphorus and potassium necessary for root growth? As they say, “the train has left.” Now there is no point in applying these fertilizers. The only thing else that can be done is to add AVA fertilizer to the soil, because it is not soluble in water and, accordingly, is not washed out of the soil by either autumn or spring waters. Tip 10 You can dig up celery root, leeks and cut Brussels sprouts and cabbage. Tip 11 The best time to prune berry fields and orchards is late autumn. Wounds after pruning should be lubricated with brilliant green or hydrogen peroxide, and then with natural oil paint, or bitumen (black varnish for metal), or a very liquid garden varnish. Tip 12 If you have never planted spring garlic in the fall instead of spring, then try planting it before winter at the same time as you usually plant winter garlic. This must be done in exactly the same way as was described about landing winter garlic in August. The garlic works great. Tip 13 In October, bulbous plants are usually planted, in particular tulips and hyacinths. Before planting, it would be a good idea to soak any bulbous plants for half an hour in a solution of the anti-rot drug “Maxim” or in a solution of “Fitosporin”, or at least in a solution of potassium permanganate. Add rotted compost into the trench, then a 10 cm layer of soil, then a 2-3 cm layer of sand. It is enough to add a pinch of AVA fertilizer, but you can get by with a tablespoon of ash. Place the bulbs on the sand and cover them completely with sand. Any loose soil or peat should be poured on top with a height equal to two diameters of the bulbs (i.e. approximately 10 cm).
What to do in the garden, flower beds and vegetable garden in October.
List of works at the dacha in October
October is the second month of autumn, and the worries are not getting any less. (We need to have time to harvest the late harvest - the first frosts begin, ice appears on the water. It’s time to prepare for winter.
Signs of October
The leaves of birch and oak begin to fall off at the same time - leading to a harsh winter.
On Pokrov the wind blows from the east - the winter will be cold.
Thunder rumbles in October - the winter will be short, soft, snow-white.
The first snow fell in October - wait for winter in 40 days.
If on October 3 the north wind blows, it will be cold, if the south wind blows, it will be warm, if the west wind blows, it will be wet, if the east wind blows, it will be a bucket.
October 14 - Pokrov, wedding season begins. If the wind is changeable on this day, winter will also be changeable.
Works according to the lunar calendar for October
New moon. You cannot plant or replant plants during the new moon, but this time is perfect for foliar feeding of houseplants.
Waxing Crescent. Favorable time for planting and replanting shrubs and trees, good time for winter sowing. Disinfect greenhouses, replant plants, and trim bushes.
In the middle of the waxing Moon phase, you should rest for a couple of days - you can neither plant nor sow. And at the end of the phase, you can start planting bulbs and herbs for forcing and winter sowing. This is also a good time for pest control.
Full moon. You cannot plant or arrange plants.
Waning moon. The first few days of the waning Moon are favorable for feeding seedlings and planting winter crops - garlic, onions, hyacinths.
The next few days should be devoted to winter sowing of vegetables and flowers, as well as carrying out sanitation work in the garden by cleaning and pruning unnecessary plant residues. Use this time to water and feed the plants - they will overwinter better, the main thing is not to touch the above-ground part.
At the end of the phase, the remaining crop is harvested, unnecessary branches are trimmed, unnecessary bushes and trees are cut down, and the area is restored to order.
List of works in the garden and vegetable garden
They collect apples and pears that have not yet been picked, sort them out and put the fruits into storage. Bad fruits are collected and burned along with the leaves. Also at this time, the root crops of carrots, beets, and radishes are harvested for winter storage.
After the leaves fall, the trees are treated with a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture. It is also good to water the entire depth of the rhizome, which will serve as a good moisture recharge for the tree. It is necessary to insulate the root system of trees with manure, dry leaves and humus.
At the beginning of October comes good time for planting fruit trees a few weeks before the onset of frost. The seedlings are planted in pre-prepared planting holes, where the soil will not be flooded in the spring. The roots are covered with soil, compact the soil, provide watering, and protect against the penetration of rodents.
To scare away hares, mix 300 g of naphthalene, 100 g of copper sulfate, 2 l vegetable oil, 3.5 kg of soap and 400 g of turpentine, this mixture is diluted in 10 liters of water. The solution is applied to the bark.
If there are clutches of viburnum leaf beetle and hawthorn on the trunks, it’s time to get rid of them. Infected parts are cleaned or cut off and burned.
Pre-winter sowing of vegetables
To receive on next year good harvest for onions, you need to plant seed onions with a diameter of 1 cm.
In October, the remaining harvest of white, red, and Brussels sprouts is harvested.
October - good month for digging up horseradish rhizomes. At the same time, leeks are removed. The onion is dug up, the feathers are cut off, leaving the tip up to 20 cm, the root lobe is trimmed, and the onion is tied into bunches. It is best to store onions in a cool, ventilated, dry, dark place.
Remaining before frost spices and perennial onions can be transplanted into pots and brought home, so you will always have fresh greens in winter.
In October, the time comes to prepare the beds for winter sowing of dill, radishes, carrots, and parsley in the frozen ground. They store soil for sowing seeds and make furrows 1 cm deep.
Although most of the harvest has already been harvested, there is still some left in the beds late cabbage, which continues to grow. Therefore, it needs to be fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers and do not forget to water it.
Shrub care in October
This time is suitable for planting shrubs. Black currants are planted at an angle, the roots are buried 8 cm into the ground. Gooseberries are planted without tilting and deepened only 6 cm. In October, they finish pruning raspberries. This year's shoots are carefully bent to the ground, secured and covered so that they overwinter better.
In October, currants and gooseberries are hilled up to 12 cm and covered with material.
Strawberries need protection if the beds with them are located on a hill. It is covered with shavings, sawdust, spruce branches or other covering material with a layer of up to 15 cm.
Workers in a flower garden in October
For flowers with basal leaves (blue aster, heuchera, carnations, gravilate, daylily, lupine, multipetal, primrose, pyrethrum), the leaves and faded stems are cut off low.
In order for evening primrose to grow, it is necessary to cut off the stems, leaving small rosettes with green leaves.
The leaves of the iris must be cut off, leaving a height of 15 cm. The basal green leaves of the oriental poppy are not touched, only the stems are cut, the soil around is loosened and fertilized with compost to a height of 5 cm.
After the first frost, gonia tubers are harvested for winter storage. The begonia is carefully inspected, the damaged one is cut off ground part, tubers with roots are placed in boxes and stored in a cool, dry, ventilated room.
They are starting to prepare the roses for winter. They are spudded, the buds and tops of the shoots are cut off. After the first frosts, you can start working on late gladioli. The plants are cut off from the leaves and stem, leaving only 1.5 cm, the resulting bulbs are laid out in boxes with ventilation, and set to dry at a temperature of +20-25 ° C. After a couple of days, they are placed for a week in a place where the temperature is about +35 °C. When the bulbs are dry, they are cleaned and dried at a temperature of about +20 ° C for another 1 month.
This time is suitable for working with galtonia. It is necessary to cut the stem at the base, then dry the resulting bulbs for 1-2 weeks in a dry, dark, well-ventilated room. The dried bulbs are placed in cardboard box and stored at temperatures up to 12 °C.
You can also do acidanthera. The stems are cut to the base, the bulbs themselves are dried at a temperature of +20 degrees, then stored in a well-ventilated area.
October is suitable for practicing perennial flowers, which remain in the ground for the winter. In astilbe, aster, cornflower, columbine, gaillardia, gypsophila, delphinium, goldenrod, bellflower, coreopsis, lily of the valley, liatris, lily, lychnis, milkweed, monarda, peony, rudbeckia, scabiosa, yarrow, phlox and echinacea, cut off the leaves and stems, leaving only about 3 cm.
We need to take care of the dahlias. After the first frost, when the flowers are damaged, you can already dig up the tubers for winter storage. Dahlias are unplanted, the stems are cut, leaving 10 cm, a groove is laid around the dahlia, and the tubers are dug out with a pitchfork. The tubers are carefully shaken off, the soil is washed off, and dried a little. When the tubers are dry, they are inspected, small roots are cut off, damage and diseased areas are removed, and the sections are sprinkled with crushed charcoal. Then the tubers are placed in a cool place with a temperature of up to +10 ° C for 2-3 weeks. The dried tubers are placed in a box covered with paper, sprinkled with sawdust and dry river sand, and covered with paper on top. The boxes are placed in a cool and dry place with a temperature of +5 ° C and humidity up to 60%.
Clematis are removed and trimmed, leaving only a node from the ground. They also feed with fertilizer and add compost under the flowers.
Bulbous perennial plants (narcissus, lilies and hyacinths), prepared for winter, are covered with dry leaves, opiates and spruce branches, which will protect the bulbs from frost in winter. And the spruce branches will also protect the bulbs from rodents.
Vineyard care in October
After the harvest, the time comes to combat pests and diseases, so the grapes are treated with drugs. Then strong seedlings from the school are planted, since at this time they are better accepted and develop the root system. Young shoots are covered with peat and spruce branches, old bushes are pruned and placed in pre-prepared grooves. Trimmed unusable plant parts of the vineyard are dried and burned.
