A fence made of boards has always been considered an excellent fencing option due to its ease of installation, environmental friendliness, and availability of materials. Anyone can make such a structure with their own hands, and a simple plank fence will last, if correct installation and processing, maybe several decades. In this article we will look at how to properly prepare the material for installation, make calculations, and build a reliable and beautiful wooden fence from edged or unedged boards.

What types of board fences are there?

Let's look at the most popular options for plank fences and the features of their design:

1. Picket fence.

Fence from wooden picket fence

This is the simplest type of fencing, which consists of individual edged board strips nailed to the joists. There are gaps of varying widths between the slats. A picket fence is not made from unedged boards, since its appearance, in this case, will not be presentable.

2. . This option is attractive because the slats block the visibility of the site from the street, but allow the site to be blown by the wind. There are two types of chess:

• Vertical checkerboard. The planks are installed vertically so that each established bar overlapped the previous plank by a third. Such a picket fence is attached to horizontal veins.

Wooden checkerboard fence with vertical boards

• Horizontal checkerboard. Installed similarly to the previous option, but the slats are mounted horizontally. For this purpose, additional vertical racks. They can be made from ordinary unedged boards.

Checkerboard fence with horizontal boards

3. Ladder. This is a fence with a slanted board. Adjacent planks are installed with a slight slope, overlapping each other. This fence has a very attractive appearance.

Wooden fence "ladder"

4. Classic solid fence. In this design, the planks are closely adjacent to each other. It turns out solid wooden wall. It is quite difficult to make such a fence without gaps. Especially if it is made from unedged boards. Before installation, it is processed on a machine.

Solid fence made of boards

5. . In this option, the pickets are mounted horizontally to the joists, overlapping each other. This is also a fence with a slanted board, since each planed board is installed with a small gap in relation to the adjacent plank. This is achieved by installing calibrated inserts.

Tools required for work

Before starting work, you should make sure you have necessary tools. You will need:

• Saw.
• Grinding tools.
• Marking tool.
• Roulette.
• Plane.
• Cord.
• Construction level.
• Hammer.
• Screwdriver.
• Galvanized nails or screws.
• Materials for installing pillars (sand, crushed stone, cement, broken brick).
• Drill for drilling holes for poles.

What boards are used to install fencing?

To build a plank fence, you need to prepare necessary building materials. This applies primarily to wood. The following types are used:

• Unedged board. It is used relatively rarely due to its unsightly appearance. The unedged board has obvious advantage: it has a low cost, and you can buy it almost everywhere. Antique, country-style fencing is made from unedged boards.
• Edged board. This is the most popular material for constructing wooden fencing. All types of fences are built from edged boards.
• Lining. These are machine-made planks of a special shape, the ends of which have connecting recesses and projections. A clapboard fence is a continuous barrier with no gaps. The planks are small in thickness, so they must be treated with very high quality protective materials. A properly made clapboard fence, if a durable type of wood is used, can last about two decades.
• Decorative strips. Each of these planks has an unusual shape, carvings, and beautifully designed ends. Often used as a picket fence.
• Aged board. Artificially they achieve to highlight the structure of the wood. The raw materials for the production of aged material are blanks from unedged boards.
• Terrace board. It is made from wood flour, polymers and modifiers. Fence from decking boards is durable and unique appearance.

Stages of self-construction of a fence from a board

Let's get started self-construction wooden fencing. The work consists of several stages.

Preparation of material

All joists and strips must be prepared for installation. If the construction is carried out from unedged boards, then it still needs to be cleared of bark residues, and then sanded with sandpaper or processed on a machine. The pickets are then cut to a specific size. The upper part of each plank is cut at an angle for better moisture drainage. The last step is to coat the wood with an antiseptic and then apply two layers of varnish to it.

Site marking

First, corner pegs are driven in along the line of the future fence, and a cord is pulled between them. Along this cord, at equal distances, additional pegs are driven in, which indicate the locations of the pillars. It is generally accepted that the distance between pillars should be no more than 3 meters. If a solid picket fence is installed, the distance between the supports can be reduced to 2 meters. This helps to avoid the impact of windage on the fence.

Installation of pillars

Installation is carried out in the marked places support pillars. To do this, holes are first dug or wells of the required depth are drilled. Depending on the material of the pillars, the method of fixing them in the soil is used:

• Wooden supports are coated in the lower third with liquid bitumen, wrapped with roofing felt, and then installed in the pits. The voids are filled with crushed stone or broken bricks. The holes are compacted and filled with water.
• Metal pipes or metal profiles. They can be concreted in holes or driven into the ground with a sledgehammer.
• Concrete pillars can simply be dug into the ground. The holes are filled with stones or construction waste.

Installation of logs on poles

Lags are wooden blocks or boards on which the fencing strips will subsequently be attached. They can be made from edged or unedged boards. Planed wood logs are preferable as they look more presentable and require less maintenance.

If the installation of the pillars was carried out using the concreting method, it is necessary to wait until the supports have completely hardened. In other cases, logs can be installed immediately after installing the pillars. The logs are attached horizontally to the supports. To do this, it is necessary to install fastening plates on the poles. The logs must be positioned strictly horizontally so that the picket fence attached to them has the same height.

The number of lags is determined based on the height of the picket fence. If you plan to make a fence 2 meters high, 2 logs will be enough. If you need to make the height of the fence more than 2.5 meters, then you cannot do without 3 veins. If horizontal installation of planks is carried out, then 1-2 vertical logs are installed.

Fastening boards

Prepared pickets are nailed or screwed onto the fixed veins. It doesn’t matter whether the fence is made with an inclined board or a regular picket fence is mounted from an edged board, the planks are attached to the joists in at least two places. Self-tapping screws or galvanized nails are used for fastening. The planks are nailed close to each other, or some equal distance is left between them.

There should be a gap of at least 5 cm between the bottom of the picket fence and the soil. This will protect the fence from moisture.

We figured out how to make a fence from boards with your own hands. For this you can use any wood materials that are in your sufficient quantity. If you have a lot of edged boards, then a fence made from it will delight you and your loved ones with its appearance and reliability.

The fence is an element of the garden landscape. In addition to their direct “responsibilities” - protecting the site from unauthorized access and indicating the boundaries of private households, fences play an important role in the aesthetic arrangement of the territory. There is a fence different types, configuration and texture, but the most popular in decorative meaning was and remains wooden version. In addition, you can make such a fence yourself, using all your imagination as a craftsman.

Making a wooden fence is quite simple compared to its metal counterpart. This option has many advantages with minimal disadvantages. For the construction of wooden fencing you can use various material– boards with different breeds trees: beech, pine, larch or oak. Wood is especially prized coniferous species. Each master chooses the material at his own discretion, because the main thing is that the wooden fence is of good quality and lasts a long time.

How to make a fence correctly

Wood fences can be divided into 2 groups: hedges and palisades. Also, such fences vary in design (picket picket, wattle fence, bamboo fence, ranch, lattice and other fence design options).

The most popular and simple ones are picket fences, as well as those made by a continuous row of boards. Regardless of what kind of fence you plan to build, you definitely need to carry out preparatory work according to its structure:

• clear the area for the wooden fence (remove debris, pull out grass or weeds, uproot stumps and roots of old trees, if any);
• dismantle the old fence;
• draw up a design diagram of the future picket fence, where to mark the location of the gate, taking into account boundary boundaries and signs;
• choose and buy everything necessary materials for the construction of a fence (wood, nails or construction screws treated with an anti-corrosion agent, cement to stabilize the fence support, beams and logs, paint);
• prepare tools (hammer, hacksaw, shovel, crowbar, hole drill, tamper, cord and pegs for marking the area, wheelbarrow, mixing container cement mortar or concrete mixer).

Service life of a wooden fence

A wooden fence has a service life of about 8 years. However, if you properly care for it and repair it on time, then this period increases 3 times. A good wooden fence can last more than 30 years, although fences from historical wooden architecture, which are more than 50 years old.

The main factors for the durability of wooden fences are:

• quality of building material - wood (soft or hard wood, manufacturer);
• good quality and correct installation;
• operating conditions.

Manufacturers determine the quality of a material by its likely wear resistance. Also, the service life of the fence depends on how carefully it is handled.

The advantages of wooden fences are:

• environmentally friendly - absolutely clean natural material which does no harm environment, a sanded fence is pleasant to the touch, it does not absorb sunlight, which is important for plants growing close to each other;
• variability - compared to the factory version, a metal profile, which is usually installed in a vertical position, can be worked with wood various options– horizontally, vertically, diagonally, interlacing, and also use boards of various lengths, widths and thicknesses;
• ease of installation – installation of a wooden fence does not require special skills, thorough concreting and large quantity people, since a wooden fence is not heavy, it can be easily handled by one person;
• aesthetics – natural beauty wood is a leader in the selection of materials for the future fence; it looks great in any landscape design solution.

It is worth considering that wood is “afraid” of exposure to moisture, since over time it begins to rot, turn black, and become covered with mold spots. To delay these unpleasant moments, it is necessary to carefully care for the wooden fence and carry out antiseptic prophylaxis for it in a timely manner. You should also pay attention to the flammability of this building material and apply special means for its impregnation and protection to prevent fire.

Wooden fence design

Modern, wooden fences have different design in any format that provides a visual impression. This type of fencing is a traditional option for Russian villages, holiday villages or country cottages.

The tree is beautifully decorated and covered different paints or varnish, it fits harmoniously into any landscape composition. The design of a wooden fence depends on the preferences, imagination of the owner, as well as the overall compositional background. The most original fences are obtained using the following types of fences:

• solid - made in the form of a palisade made of stakes or round logs, slabs, edged boards;
• option checkerboard layout or overlap - the boards are laid in a horizontal, vertical or diagonal position;
• “braiding” - boards are fixed between support pillars, either from the inside or the outside, by braiding them;
• – a combination of boards with round logs as support, a classic option;
• wicker fence - vines, tree branches, twigs are used;
• lattice fencing - slats are used;
• a fence in the style of a cowboy ranch - the exotic horizontal bars are attractive with brutality, it is recommended to combine them with a massive concrete or stone base.

Whatever fence design you choose, it is worth considering its role in the overall compositional picture and functionality.

In recent years, fashion has wooden buildings leads to the fact that developers are increasingly thinking about metal fence, perhaps not the most best solutions. From the point of view of durability, maybe yes, but from the point of view of aesthetics, it is inferior to wood. A wooden fence has somewhat lost its popularity due to its short life: wood, with constant exposure to sun and water, quickly deteriorates. To increase service life, protective covering in the form of paint, it has to be constantly renewed. If it is long, it takes a long time and requires a considerable amount of paint. This problem has become less acute since the emerging Lately New antiseptics make it possible to extend the life of the fence and also guarantee colorfastness for several years. The term varies - from 2-3 years to 5-7. It depends on the type of antiseptic impregnation and the manufacturer, but finding “long-lasting” ones is not difficult: in any more or less large store.

Moreover, these impregnations do not paint over the texture of the wood: all the veins are visible. They simply change color, usually to a darker color. This wooden fence looks solid and rich. Even a simple picket fence, let alone a complicated one, even more so.

What is important is that you can install a wooden fence with your own hands alone, if necessary, even without the help of helpers. Another important thing: a significant part of the work - preparing the wood - can be carried out not on site, but, say, in a garage or workshop. And start it long before construction begins. For example, from autumn to spring, and the construction itself can begin when the weather is warm.

Wood is a very flexible material and the simplest thing can be made so that it looks like a work of art. This is also true for fences. If you wish, you can make such a “candy” that it would be a pleasure to look at. There are several designs of wooden fences.

Fence

The simplest one is a picket fence. This is a set of edged boards or strips of the same width, usually nailed vertically to two or more transverse rails.

Scheme of a wooden fence made of vertically nailed boards - picket fence

The shape of the top may differ. Cutting the floor 90° is the simplest option, but far from the best, and not only from an aesthetic point of view. The top of such a picket fence, even painted, is exposed to intense moisture, as a result of which the coating in this place is the first to be destroyed. And the wood pores in the perpendicular cut remain open. Rain, fog, melting snow/ice are absorbed by them, which leads to the destruction of wood. To avoid this, cut the tops not at 90°, but at 45°. If you look at such a board in profile, the top will be beveled (see picture below).

The distance between two adjacent pickets is chosen according to your wishes. You can make a solid fence, fitting one to the other closely, you can make it translucent, leaving a gap of 1-2 cm, or you can make it completely transparent - with a large distance equal to the width of the boards or even more. Such options are popular for internal fences, which are more designed to separate zones and mark boundaries than to protect from something. For external fences facing the street, they usually choose a continuous installation, perhaps with a very short distance, so that the boards do not “heave” in wet weather.

Sawn tops add variety. They can be sharpened in different ways - with a rounded top, in the form of peaks, triangles, trapezoids. All this in different options and combinations.

Rounded top is the most popular. This is already more likely. openwork fence, but decorative - definitely Tops in the form of lilies - a fence will be beautiful Peaks and triangles - in combination and independently

Some even create truly works of art: a carved fence requires a lot of perseverance. The work is painstaking, but the result is worth it.

Carved fence slats - beauty Beauty - carved wooden fence

Make curly tops faster and easier using a template. Cut a sample from a sheet of plywood and bring it to perfect condition. Then use this template to cut out all the rest. You can cut it using a jigsaw or on a milling machine.

You can buy a jigsaw for such a case. Still, even taking into account this expense item, it will be cheaper than buying ready-made carved pickets. The downside here is that it takes a lot of time, and the pickets turn out to be uneven: sometimes the file goes a little to the right, sometimes a little to the left. The edges will then have to be sanded.

Buy milling machine, if you don’t plan to use it later, it’s unprofitable. And those who already have one can buy cutters with a floating head and make a shaped picket fence with its help. The height of the cutting part of the cutter is equal to the thickness of the board that you will process, and the head rests against the template.

In both cases, you will have to somehow secure the template to the workpiece. This can be done with thin nails or by gluing double-sided tape to the template.

But if you approach the process creatively, then even from even thin planks you can make a beautiful wooden fence: nailing it at different angles.

The authors of this wooden picket fence made it even simpler: they made only the height nonlinear, emphasizing the relief with a plank nailed on top. This, by the way, is the second way to significantly increase the life of a wooden fence - the plank blocks access for water to the most vulnerable open cross sections). Also, non-linearity is imparted by planks nailed onto the surface in the form of frames, and the wood inside is painted in a more light color. Agree, original.

Fence made of wood “checkerboard” or “chess”

In fact, this is one of the subspecies of a picket fence. The boards are packed alternately on one side or the other of the crossbar. It turns out an interesting three-dimensional look.

The principle of installing pickets in a “checkerboard” or “chess” fence

If you look at such a fence exactly opposite, it looks like it is blank; if you look at it from the side, then at a certain angle some part of the yard will be visible through the gap. The degree of transparency is regulated by moving one bar over another. You can make it so that the viewability will be zero. For example, if the width of the plank is 10 cm, the distance between them should be no more than 6 cm. No matter how you look at it, nothing is visible. Flaw - high consumption wood But the fences turn out to be very beautiful, especially in combination with brick or stone pillars and figuratively made tops.

Checkerboard on the plinth - such a fence looks gorgeous

They also make horizontal fences from checkerboard. But here you need to keep in mind that such a fence is very convenient to climb: the boards are like steps. True, any fence is not such a serious obstacle. It is more likely to be protection from prying eyes than from serious assassination attempts.

Wooden fence - horizontal checkerboard

Such “chess” looks decent and solid. The pillars can be anything: metal, wood, stone, concrete. If metal poles are installed, they are made from a profile thick-walled pipe (3 mm). Above the ground level, on the front and back sides, they are sewn up with boards (to the posts with bolts or self-tapping screws), which are larger than the width of the profile: they should protrude on the sides by 3-6 cm. This way we get guides into which the boards are inserted. The boards are then attached from the inside to the sheathing of the posts.

Fence "Herringbone"

Another type of horizontal fence is called a “herringbone”. It is named so because the boards are laid close to one another, and with an overlap on the one located below. In profile it looks like a Christmas tree, as children draw it.

Wooden herringbone fences create a continuous covering

It is more difficult to climb up such a fence. Please note that there is a protective visor on top. It protects the most vulnerable part of the fence, greatly extending its service life, and also delaying the time for the next painting. After all, usually the coating at the top and bottom is the most damaged. This fence is protected from below by a plinth, and from above by a canopy.

Wooden fences "blinds"

They differ from the one described above in that the boards do not adhere to one another. They are fixed at an angle, but with some play. This type of fencing does not create solid wall and the yard can be viewed, although this will require you to sit down or even lie down - depending on the angle of inclination.

A fence called “blinds” - after looking at its structure, you will understand why

This type of fence is very uneconomical - wood consumption is usually high. Assembly is also complicated: you need to attach a block (corner) under each board or cut a notch in the post.

But with this construction it is ensured good ventilation plot. This is important if the climate or area is humid. You can’t install a solid fence: there will be a puddle under it and the dirt in the yard will never dry out.

Wicker from a board - a beautiful fence

A fence made of boards bent between posts looks unusual. They are intertwined between the pillars like a traditional wattle fence. They just make it from long boards.

Wicker fence made from boards

Most often they are found in horizontal version. There are fewer joints and it is easier to bend long spans.

There are also vertical braids. To give them a finished look, strips are nailed at the top and bottom - they both hold the edges of the boards and protect them from bad weather.

How to make such beauty, watch the video. It's really not difficult, but it requires a lot of strength.

Lattice fencing

A wide variety of gratings are made from thin, and not so thin, slats: with different angles, frequency of planks, etc. These fences play rather a decorative role and are used either for fencing inside - in the garden, in the garden - or for the main entrance - to mark the boundaries, but not to cover the beauty.

A fence made of wooden slats in a checkered pattern Lattice fencing made of boards - looks serious Double slats - such a lattice fence looks interesting

Photos of beautiful fences

It’s simply amazing what beauty people can make from a piece of wood. Really beautiful. And some of them are not very complicated.

Maybe someone will be inspired by these photographs of old wooden fences, they can be repeated...

Disappearing beauty...

Wooden fences are considered the most short-lived. After all, not everyone knows (or does not want to know) the secrets of wood and its processing.

A neo-treated pine fence will indeed last no more than 10 years, and then only if reliable waterproofing the bottom of the pillar. If you are making temporary fencing for the period of construction and improvement, then this is a completely justified decision.

It’s another matter when a tree is chosen as building material not because of its cheapness, but because of its design capabilities. After all, wood is considered the most amenable material to decorative processing.

This is what the fence looks like from the first photo from the side of the yard. Agree, no less attractive...

Pay attention to the outline of the boards: how much “attention” was paid to each of them, how carefully the edges were worked out and the corners were smoothed... The photo shows sliding gates all in the same yard.

How many exist? design techniques: firing, tinting, aged effect, combination with forged overlays, and finally, just perfect sanding and coating with yacht varnish.

Design options for wooden fences are given at the end of the article.

Having invested work (or cash) in creating a masterpiece of wooden architecture, you want to admire it for as long as possible. Therefore there are a number important points, which the owner of the estate should know.

Pledge OF LONGEVITY

Choose for the fence those types of wood that differ high density: Siberian larch, oak, mulberry, acacia, aspen, alder, ash. By the way, a fence made of Siberian larch can be called eternal - on the contrary, the wood of this tree grows stronger when it comes into contact with water.

Limit the use of pine to creating a fence panel - if it wears out quickly, it is not difficult to replace it. Under no circumstances should you install a fence made of birch - it is the most unstable wood.

Support pillars for a wooden fence they can be wooden, metal or made of masonry.

The last two options will serve as a reliable support for many years. But don't write off the tree. It doesn't have to be buried in the ground.

To extend the service life, you can use special metal consoles (stands), which are concreted, and then a wooden beam is attached to them (see link on the side).

The most vulnerable part sawn wood - the one where the cut is made across the grain. A horizontal arrangement of boards or a protective canopy over vertical ones will help extend the life of a wooden fence.

Wood is vulnerable when it comes into direct contact with air: when it is wet it swells and is affected by fungus; too dry it causes it to crack. Risks can be reduced through mandatory treatment: impregnation with an antiseptic plus painting with special dyes ( Swedish paint, yacht varnish, impregnated with hot drying oil).

SWEDISH PAINT

• iron (copper) sulfate – 260 g,
• red lead – 260 g,
• table salt – 260 g,
• rye flour – 580 g,
• drying oil or linseed oil – 240 ml,
• water - about 4.5 l.

Composition consumption is approximately 200-300 ml/m2. Color – golden. If you require a different shade, then red lead can be replaced with ocher or manganese peroxide.

Prepare the coloring composition as follows: mix flour with 3 liters of water and boil the paste, pass it through a sieve to avoid lumps, put it back on the fire and add iron sulfate and salt, stirring constantly until the vitriol is completely dissolved, continuing to stir, pour in small portions first oil (drying oil) then water (until a liquid homogeneous consistency is obtained).

The paint must be applied immediately because it thickens quickly. Therefore, it is better to work with two or three people, or divide the composition into smaller portions and prepare it as it is used.

WOODEN FENCE FRAME

The pitch of the support pillars is 2-3 m.

As supports, choose a round or square beam with a section of 100x100 mm or metal pipe cross-section 40x40, 40x60, 60x60 mm (with a wall thickness of 2 mm), for gates 80x80 and 100x100 mm (with a wall thickness of 3 mm). The wider the support spacing and the greater the load (weight and wind), the larger size and wall thickness.

So for a fence-blind with a two-meter section, choose the minimum parameters from the above, for a continuous one, and even with forged overlays - the maximum.

If there is no choice of lumber (wood species), then budget pine is carefully treated with protective chemicals, and the posts must be installed on a concrete base.

For horizontal crossbars, a beam with a cross section of 30 (sufficient) x 50 (and wider) mm is used.

To mount wooden crossbars on a metal pole, “ears” with holes for fastening are welded to it. To avoid welding work During installation, you can purchase ready-made posts with fasteners.

The cladding (shield) is covered with a 25 mm thick board. The width varies depending on the design.

Everything else technological sequence, the depth and method of laying, up to the chemical treatment of the frame, is the same as for a fence made of corrugated sheets:

• the frame is mounted,
• paint,
• after that they stuff the shield.

METHOD OF ATTACHING THE FRAME AND BOARDS

The most durable connection will be with self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws are selected taking into account the following requirement: the body of the wooden post (crossbar) should include 30-40 mm of thread.

Each board is secured with at least two screws on each edge.

There are options for a non-standard approach to fastening boards. Here is an example of a fence assembled according to the wattle fence principle. The curved board, trying to straighten itself, is pressed tightly against the support. Although, given the flexibility of wood in a humid environment, additional fixation of each board will still have to be done.

The cladding method was used for the fence in the photo above. wood siding. Begin attaching the boards from bottom to top with an overlap of 2.5 cm.

An interesting new product is a woodenFENCE-BLINDS.

If the boards are made with a downward slope towards the street, you will get an invisible fence that will not experience strong wind loads. There are several ways to secure boards at an angle.

In the photo on the right, wooden slats are nailed to a rack, which, in turn, is fixed to a support post.

Another way- nail the boards from the ends. It is important to clearly mark the wooden stand. This option is relevant for a fence with metal supports. When all sections are filled along the front and back parts, they nail a board that will cover the entire “kitchen”. A wooden cap must be placed on top of the post.

Are you interested in the question of how to mount the next section if the adjacent one restricts access to it? It is simply pushed slightly first towards the street, then towards the plot (or vice versa) to fix the lamella. Attachment to metal support produced after installing adjacent sections.

Third option for support from wooden beam. Inclined cuts-grooves are made in it, into which the end of the lamellas is inserted. Each one must be screwed on with a self-tapping screw, and then a wooden overlay is made from the front part, which will hide the attachment points.

Ultimately, a wooden shutter fence will look like this. Don't forget to nail the end caps to the top part pillar

Simple horizontal mount the boards look a bit boring. But if you make small (up to 1.5 cm) gaps between them, the section’s canvas will take on a more modern sound. How at the same board (within reason), the more interesting and modern the finished fence looks.

It’s also a good idea to alternate boards different widths- the main thing is that adjacent sections repeat the pattern.

Don't ignore unedged boards. Besides the fact that it costs less, it also looks more exclusive. The truth is not suitable for all site design styles. It will look win-win in a forest area.

Here is another option for a wooden fence in a brutalist style.

You will need a jigsaw, a wood carving knife, sandpaper and skillful hands to make something like this. original fence with the effect of a time-worn board.

Have you ever put together puzzles? So to create these fence sections(pictured above) they first need to be drawn and carved from boards. Each board of this fence has its own clear size and bend, that is, first a template is created, then cut, chamfered, sanded, and treated with protective chemicals. And only then are they brought down to the section. And how the elements are fixed to each other is the master’s secret...

For the slab fence in the photo above, all the wane was carefully selected, because it is unacceptable that some sections of the boards were too thin in thickness. The bark was removed, each plank was given piquant contours with a jigsaw, and the surface was sanded. In general, the cheap price of the material is offset by painstaking work.

I recommend copying this design exactly in relation to the original, or first creating a project (span diagram) of the entire fence, selecting alternating patterns. And only after making sure that the fence canvas as a whole looks harmonious can we begin implementation.

Don't get carried away with such a bright texture for everyone wooden elements yard An exclusive wins only when it is unique.

IN last years increasingly you can see not only new wooden houses, but also fences. People take this step deliberately: the products they produce are very beautiful. They even agree to paint them regularly, and as long as they last, they will last. If you are one of those wood lovers, you may find photo reports of how people built a wooden fence with their own hands useful. Typically used interesting solutions. Perhaps not always 100% correct, but they work.

Photo report 1: a regular fence made of boards (picket fence)

This fence was erected with periodic help - either hired or volunteer helpers, but most of the fence was assembled by the owner with his own hands. The boards were first processed, then delivered to the site ready for use.

The main work was done before winter - holes were dug with a rented motor drill. The main thing is to make sure that the drill is not sharpened. Then the process is difficult even on normal soil. That’s how it happened for us: the first day we drilled only 6 holes and became depressed: how long does it take to do the rest? Well, a neighbor suggested replacing the blade. With the new cutting part, everything else was done in daylight. We drilled slightly below the freezing depth of the soil. It freezes to 1.2 meters, the depth of the holes is 1.3 meters (reinsurance “just in case”), the distance between the holes is 3 m. We pulled the cord between the corner marks, marked out 3 m sections (they threw the board). The result was smooth.

Afterwards, a bucket of crushed stone was poured into the holes, and a sleeve made of roofing felt rolled into two layers was inserted. Columns 60*60 mm with a wall of 3 mm were inserted into this sleeve. Sections of reinforcement were previously welded to them at the bottom so that they would hold better, and also a “magpie” corner for attaching future logs. Before installation, or rather long before it, the pillars are sanded and covered first with anti-rust, then with two layers of paint.

The most important thing is to position the pillars correctly. They also did this using a cord. The corner posts were set strictly according to the level. First, one was set out so that it stuck out 1.8 meters, then it was moved using laser level to the second one, which stands at the same level. This operation was repeated with all the “steps”. The braces and stops helped to hold the key pillars while they were pouring. After the solution had set, threads were pulled between the pillars - one at the top, marking the tops of the pillars, the second in the middle of the height - they were guided by it when setting up the remaining pillars.

After all the pillars were filled with concrete (in a few days), we began pouring the base. We made portable formwork from pine boards. Rearranging it, they gradually filled the base. They didn’t dig deep - they only removed the turf. The result was pillars with a concrete strip poured between them.

The wood was dry and painted with an antiseptic compound, which lightened the color a little. The result was light boards. Support bars - logs - with a cross section of 50*100 mm were attached to the installed pillars. They deliberately put the bar on top. Firstly, I like the look better this way, and secondly, the ends of the open-pore boards are protected. This plank was attached to the first level board and an auxiliary one, which was installed three meters later. Therefore, boards were attached to it one by one.

When installing a picket fence, it is important to install the first board strictly vertically. We checked it with a plumb line (we cheated on the level a couple of times, so now wherever the vertical is important, we check it with a plumb line). Then it's a matter of technology. The boards were not mounted closely, but with a gap of 1.2 cm. To ensure that the gap was maintained consistently, a board (lining) of such thickness was found and a piece was cut off the same length as the fence - 1.8 m. The work proceeds like this: we take a ready-made picket fence and strip of lining. We apply the lining to the already nailed one, prop it up with a picket fence, level the top, then fasten it with two screws to each joist. As a result, the gap is the same. But such a trick is possible if the board has ideal geometry.

Regarding the gap. The size (1.2 mm) turned out to be ideal. If you look from the outside, you can’t see anything, but from the inside the street is quite visible.

As for the advantages of a wooden fence: my neighbors were jealous: in the summer it was cool in my yard, in theirs it was like in an oven, all the flowers under the fence burned. We have a riot of colors until late autumn.

Photo report 2: horizontal fence made of unedged boards “checkerboard”

This fence is like something out of a fairy tale. It was partially assembled by the owner of the site. Hired workers dug holes and erected pillars. The metal work - cutting the pillars and welding the tops - was the work of a friend. Everything else, including processing the boards and assembling the fence sections, was done by the hands of the owner and his wife (painting).

An unedged board with a thickness of 20 mm was used, the smooth edges were sanded using a sawmill (by agreement), the wane was removed independently and then sanded with a machine, after which it was coated with Dufa antiseptic water based, teak color. Apply with a wide brush in two layers. Here is the result of the work.

Metal profiled square pipes were used for the pillars: 60*60 mm, wall thickness 3 mm. It is attached on both sides edged boards 150*30 mm. They fastened it at a distance of 10 cm from the top, then at 100 cm and 190 cm. A “sandwich” of two boards was formed, drilled through, everything was fastened with a bolt with a self-centering washer.

The pillars with a total height of 3 m by 1 m are concreted into the ground. They are placed along a cord stretched between pre-installed control posts. The procedure is standard, the only unusual thing is that the top (2 meters that remain above the ground) is wrapped in film. The decision turned out to be correct: after transportation and concreting, the film was dirty, but the wood underneath was clean. The film was removed after the concrete had dried.

The assembly order is as follows:

• Select the first board with a smooth bottom edge.
• We measure the distance between the pillars, saw off a piece from the board 1 cm shorter than the measured distance (so that it becomes normal).
• We coat the sawn end with an antiseptic.
• We install the first board 5 cm above the ground and secure it with clamps. We screw two self-tapping screws (45 mm) into each edge from the inside.
• Vertical installation. We find the middle, insert the bar, do not press it into the ground, the edge hangs. We fix it with two screws at the top of the installed board.
• Installing a new strip. It should cover even the largest protrusion of the bottom. It also covers the screws that hold the middle bar in place.

This sequence is maintained all the way to the top. So the run gradually builds up. Please note that the former wanes have beveled edges; they all face “outside”: so that raindrops roll out.

To get an even top edge, they were selected, cut, painted with an antiseptic, and only then attached - for the final part, aligning all the tops in one line.

Photo report 3: wooden wicker fence

Another option is performed almost “solo”. The wicker wooden fence was assembled with your own hands almost without outside participation. Sometimes the wife worked as an assistant, painting the poles, and the second assistant was the dog.

For a horizontal fence made of bent boards, which is also called wicker, sometimes Austrian wicker, the following materials were used:

• for pillars profile pipe 60*60 mm, installation pitch 2.7 m;
• edged board, planed 100*20 mm, length 6 m;
• intermediate beam 50*50 mm, but it is better to take less - it is more convenient to bend;

It was decided to paint the boards with an antiseptic with a dark pigment, and the pillars with light gray. From a distance on a dark background like stitches. If you don't like it, paint it to match the boards.

Most of the time is spent painting and drying the boards. If they are ready, everything is assembled quite quickly: the fasteners are minimal, only the first board is attached to the level, the rest are placed on it. The boards are six meters long and braided around three pillars. The distance between the pillars is about 5.4 -5.5 m, the rest sticks out, but the result looks original.

It is more convenient to assemble a wicker fence made of boards not with purlins, but horizontally - weaving several boards along the entire length

The main trick is to weave the first three boards. Without intermediate bars, they are simply laid: two on one side on the edge, one on the other. Then they need to be positioned so that they are one above the other. If there are two assistants, they hold the boards at the two nearest posts, and the third person bends the boards and inserts the intermediate beam. After the first three boards are installed, the bottom one is leveled and screwed to the posts (light the hole, then screw in the self-tapping screw).

If you are making a wicker wooden fence from boards with your own hands, when assembling it is more convenient not to fold it in spans, but to go horizontally. First, we braided the entire length of the bottom three boards, set the level and secured them. Then they collected the rest as the paint dried.

This is the front view. “Tails” are visible where the boards end and begin, but they do not spoil the picture, but add zest

A simpler option - only three posts and shorter boards - is shown in the video. Here the pillars are made of wood, the technology for their installation is shown. Not a bad video - the whole editing process is clear.

conclusions

In all three examples, two stages are clearly visible, which, if you make a wooden fence with your own hands, take a lot of time. The first is installing the pillars and pouring the foundation or plinth. The second is the work of preparing the wood. If the site is new, not inhabited, problems arise with preservation, and the process of painting, and especially sanding, is lengthy. It makes sense to buy wood in advance and prepare and process it in a workshop or garage. When it's time to put up a wooden fence, take it out ready material to the site immediately before installation.

If all the materials are ready, you can make a wooden fence with your own hands quite quickly. The installation of wood itself does not take very much time. Of the entire construction duration, 40% of the time is spent on preparing the boards, another 20% on preparing the poles if they are metal and 10% if they are wooden, another 20% on installing them (the poles). Accordingly, assembly does not take much time.