What problems can arise when finishing drywall sheets? How can they be fixed? What should you do if the putty peels off or the structure breaks? What measures should be taken to eliminate defects in gypsum board finishing? How to bend plasterboard sheets? We will talk about this in our article.
After the finishing finishing works Problems may appear on drywall that were previously unknown, or the technology may have been violated due to oversight or negligence. In this article we will consider not the reasons for the appearance and elimination of cracks in gypsum boards, but others frequent cases manifestations of defects and methods for their correction.
Problem 1: The putty is peeling off
This phenomenon most often occurs in premises where repairs are carried out phenomenally quickly and cheaply. This defect can occur for many reasons.
Reason 1. Applying putty to a damp sheet
At this point, the cardboard is glued to the fresh putty, while at the same time its bond with the filling of the sheet is weakened. The sheet can become damp if stored incorrectly for a long time, as well as when priming (if it is not dried).
Note. There is no need to apply a primer before puttingty - it weakens the bond between the cardboard and the gypsum layer.
How to fix? Clean off any loose areas with a spatula and putty again.
Reason 2. Using stale or frozen putty
Sometimes an old one that has lost its properties is added to a fresh, high-quality (dry) mixture. Unscrupulous performers can make this rude move in the absence of the customer, which lies entirely on their conscience.
How to fix? See reason 1.
Reason 3. Oil stains on drywall sheets
The putty can last up to 30 days due to its own bond, and then peels off. Oil product stains are not primed with anything; these areas are subject to defect detection and removal.
How to fix? Clean the stained areas to clean plaster. If the stain area is large, replace the damaged area.
Reason 4. High humidity in the base or cavity between the gypsum board and the wall
Accompanied by the appearance of brownish stains. In this case, most likely, the gypsum board sheet gets wet through.
How to fix? Identify and eliminate the source of dampness, dry and treat antifungal compounds. Replace the damaged section of the sheet (the frame does not need to be changed).
Problem 2. After installing the lighting fixtures, putty and paint defects became visible
This problem occurs when the performer lacks skill. In most cases, defects will appear if you simply paint the putty drywall without wallpapering it. This one is cheap and quick method visually good during repairs - everything looks even and smooth. But when installing lamps, the light falls differently, and bumps and holes that were previously invisible often catch the eye.
Advice. To see defects in advance, hold the lamp close to the plane and look parallel to the light - the smallest tubercles will be shaded. The lighting should be turned off.
There are several methods to eliminate this effect.
Method 1: Shading
If expensive materials are used or rework is impossible, defects can be “hidden” in the shadows. To do this, select a lamp that is 50-100 mm away from the ceiling or wall and has a lampshade, “plate” or reflector on top. The task is to block the access of light to the plane and direct it in the opposite direction. If built-in lamps are provided, select a model in which the lamp will be recessed as much as possible and will not extend beyond the plane.
Method 2. Wallpapering
If you are not satisfied with the quality of the final drywall putty, but you don’t have the time or energy to make it perfect, paintable wallpaper will come to the rescue. There are many of them - thick ones with patterns, smooth non-woven fabric, vinyl based etc. Most effective method masking defects in gypsum plasterboard surfaces - “ripple” coating. A fiberglass mesh is best suited for this. After installation, it can be painted with acrylic paint.
Method 3. Complete overlap
If there are serious defects along the entire plane of the plasterboard ceiling, you can simply glue ceiling slabs on top.
Problem 3. How to hang something on a wall or partition lined with gypsum board
When planning your living space, the question always arises about using walls to install decorative elements, furniture, shelves or household appliances. Stone and wood are perfectly anchored, but how will drywall cope with this? The problem is the main disadvantage of drywall - fragility.
Method 1. Light weight items
These could be watches, small paintings, jewelry. The self-tapping screw simply screws into place. Weight limit: 0.5 kg.
Method 2. Light weight items
Small shelves, paintings and large clocks. There is a special spacer dowel for this. To install it in the gypsum board you need to drill a hole and simply insert it there. When screwing in the screw, the back of the plastic dowel is pulled towards back side sheet and increases the contact area, distributing the load from the screw across the plane. Weight limit: 2 kg.
Method 3. Objects and things of medium weight
Bookshelves, hangers, small Appliances. In this case, you may need a more powerful anchor with a plastic dowel. The hole is drilled into the plasterboard and drilled into the load-bearing wall. A dowel with an anchor is inserted there, but it is important to calculate its length in advance. It is better to hang the shelf in a combined way - top points with a pitch of 300 mm on the anchors, and from below to distribute the load - expansion dowels.
Another way is to find the edges of the frame using a magnet and attach the object to them. Weight limit: 5 kg.
Method 4. Heavy objects
Antique clocks, massive decorative elements, hallways, average household appliances. To install larger and heavier objects, it is wise to transfer their weight to the floor. For this we need vertical racks from a board (pre-treated to match the interior). In the upper part they need to be secured with anchors to load-bearing wall, and in the middle and bottom it is enough to install spacer dowels. Their task is only to hold the boards next to the wall. Weight limit: 12 kg.
Problem 4. How to easily and accurately make a plasterboard arch
It should be noted that a plasterboard sheet has a certain flexibility, which depends on the thickness of the sheet. So, for example, gypsum board with a thickness of 6.5 mm can be bent to a radius of 1 m, with a thickness of 9.5 mm - up to 2 m, and with a thickness of 12.5 mm - up to 2.75 m.
Note. The radius of a regular arch will be equal to half the width of the opening.
It turns out that unprepared drywall is suitable for openings from 2 to 4.5 meters. We will consider the method of bending gypsum boards with a smaller radius - up to 300 mm. The back plane of the arch is visible very well, so it should be as smooth as possible. There is an easy way to achieve a smooth bend without resorting to cross-cutting the sheet. It is also suitable for obtaining forms with several bends.
For this cardboard sheet with inside perforate with a needle roller or just an awl. This should be done carefully so that the puncture does not reach the middle of the plaster thickness. Then we moisten this surface with water or a primer and fix it to the finished frame or template. After drying, the sheet will retain its shape.
Problem 5. How to repair holes, gouges, dents or revision holes in drywall
The nature of the appearance of the described defects does not interest us; only their size is important. We recommend using special joint fillers Vetonit SILOITE, SheetRock or KNAUF Fugenfuller as a repair mixture:
- Dents, holes, torn non-through scratches are cleaned and filled.
- Through hole up to 50 mm. Apply to the edges maximum amount(as long as it will hold) putty, carefully place a 2-3 mm piece of fiberglass mesh on top. The size of the flap should cover the hole by 20-30 mm. Smooth the putty into a plane with the wall.
- Through hole more than 50 mm. Clean and trim the edges. We secure small pieces of slats or profiles on the inside of the sheet with a through passage of a self-tapping screw, holding it with your hand through the hole. They form a support along the reverse plane of the wall. We cut out a “seal” from the plasterboard in the shape of an opening so that it fits freely into it. We install the “seal” on the supports and fix them to them with self-tapping screws. We putty the plane through a painting mesh.
- Break. May have a significant shape and area. First, you should assess the “scale of the disaster” (its area) by removing unusable parts of the drywall from the frame. Then you need to inspect and test the frame - perhaps it also requires repair. After putting the frame in order, we trim the boundaries of the break along the axes of the nearest profiles. If the frame does not have transverse profiles, stops should be installed on the free boundaries, described in the installation of the “seal” (above), or additional ribs should be installed. Then we fill the resulting opening with gypsum plasterboard, following the usual technology. We fill the seams with paint mesh.
As you have seen, 90% of drywall problems arise from the brittleness of the cured gypsum. However, fragility itself is at the same time the main advantage of this material. It is the weak crystal lattice that makes it easy to process, giving it the most bizarre shapes.
Technology is always important in any construction work; it is this that guarantees the quality of construction and the durability of the repair result. But, often, builders make technological mistakes, some from ignorance, and some from inertia. Many builders deliberately violate technology, seemingly with good intentions, trying to speed up the installation process and reduce material costs. Let's look at the main mistakes using the example of working with a metal profile.
1. Violations of frame installation technology
Failure to follow the technology with metal profiles or the profiles not matching their purpose are perhaps the most popular mistakes of builders and everyone who makes repairs with their own hands. This is especially true for profiles for curved ceiling surfaces.
From this photo it can be seen that the master, unfortunately, in principle does not understand how to fix the ceiling profiles (PP 60X27). To fix them, you should always use hangers; the profile should look downwards smooth side, because it is on this base that the sheets of drywall are screwed. The design does not have an additional metal strip along the entire length of the profile (cut along the same curved line from a galvanized sheet), which ensures the rigidity of the entire structure. As a result, this structure will be flimsy, and the fastening of the drywall will be unreliable, which will lead to the appearance of a crack after repair.
2. Errors when cutting profiles
To uniformly cut the profile for the purpose of installing curved structures, you should never use an angle grinder (grinder). At high speed, the metal overheats, and in addition, the galvanization burns out at the cut site, as a result of which in the future this place will be susceptible to corrosion. The work of cutting metal profiles should be performed only with special metal scissors (manual or electric). The smooth profile is cut carefully, strictly observing the integrity of the opposite shelf on which the side sheet of drywall will be attached.
3. Wrong selection of profile
A common mistake among builders of various qualifications is when the structure of the box for partitions is made from a ceiling profile, instead of a rack (PS 50/50) and a guide (PN 50/40).
The stability, reliability and sound insulation of such a structure immediately comes into question.
Use ceiling profile for the frame of partitions - this is a complete discrepancy with the technology. For the construction of partitions or walls, a guide profile 50/40, 75/40 and 100/40 is used (which is fixed to the floor, ceiling and wall), and a rack profile 50/50, 75/50, 100/50.
4. Refusal of suspensions and violation of the frame
During construction suspended ceiling builders are faced with the problem of the foundation - what should the frame be secured to? In the best case, it is concrete, but if it is wood or a complex surface obtained experimentally, then problems arise, as in the photo. In this case, the builders selected places decided to completely abandon the use of hangers for the frame of a two-level ceiling type P-112.
As a result, the main profile 60/27 is rigidly screwed to the supporting profile without a two-level connector. Himself load-bearing profile pressed to the boards also without hangers. This technology will lead to the fact that, over time, cracks will inevitably form along the surface of the entire plasterboard ceiling. The scheme is also broken frame, - step profiles are chaotic, with a wide indentation of the supporting profile from the wall. If the technology is followed, the supporting profile is fixed from the wall in increments of 10 cm. The suspended ceiling system can only be mounted on special perforated or spring hangers. The profile pitch should be uniform every 50 cm (and in the case of heavy chandeliers - 40 cm).
5. Bending the profile walls
A striking example of incorrect work with the profile is shown in the photo below. The partition is again built from a ceiling profile, in violation of technology. And besides, for the jumpers the profile was simply bent.
And here, the supporting crossbar of the partition opening is made of a rack profile, which is also turned horizontally, and its stiffening ribs are unbent.
This is extremely wrong. By unbending the walls of the profile, the rigidity and integrity of the entire structure is compromised, as the reinforcement is also reduced. Here it was necessary to use a special guide profile for partitions of the appropriate size 50/40, 75/40 or 100/40.
6. Fixing the gypsum board sheet with the wrong side
Some builders consider the question of which side to fix the drywall to be unimportant - the front or the back? The photograph shows how, when covering a wall with gypsum board sheets, some of them are sewn with the back side facing out. The peculiarity of this plasterboard is that it is moisture resistant and these properties are contained both in the core of the sheet and in its cardboard with front side, preventing excessive wetting of the sheet in damp rooms, as well as the formation of fungus.
7. Error in attaching drywall sheets
Another popular mistake that leads to the appearance of cracks at the joints of drywall is its improper fixation. It is the installation of drywall sheets in staggered order that will protect against the appearance of cracks. Below you can see how the sheets are screwed to the profile in one row, and in addition from small cuts. This is low quality cladding. Sheets should be taken as large as possible, and small pieces should not be joined in an area of 1 sq/m.
Even experienced craftsmen It’s worth improving your knowledge, for example, at the KNAUF Training Center. Remember - the reliability and quality of the designs of systems made of gypsum plasterboard and profiles is associated with adherence to technology!
Working with plasterboard with your own hands, which can be used to perfectly level walls, or use it to build lightweight, durable partitions, is quite accessible even for a novice builder. Plasterboard is excellent for finishing concrete walls of high-rise apartments and leveling curved surfaces in private houses. This material can reduce high audibility from the street and additionally insulate the building envelope.
The big advantage of drywall over others finishing materials Another advantage is that it can be used to create entire complexes of niches and shelves built into the wall, and to create original arched structures.
This material is used in two ways - by attaching sheets of plasterboard to a frame sheathing or by gluing gypsum boards to the wall using a special gypsum-based mounting compound.
If the process of leveling surfaces using plaster solutions requires fairly high skills, and if there are large differences on the walls, even extraordinary skill, then working with drywall in this comparison can be called simple. The main thing in this process is to correctly and accurately perform each of the installation stages.
To put the walls in order without hitches and difficulties, you need to be well prepared for this event by purchasing everything necessary materials and tools, as well as by studying the installation instructions for a particular structure.
Preparing the surface of the walls before leveling will also not be superfluous, especially since it will not take much time and effort, but will be of great benefit.
What will you need for the job?
Tools for installing drywall
To install plasterboard structures you will need special tools, and, gluing the material will require less of them than for attaching it to the frame.
In order not to repeat yourself and not create two lists for each type of work separately, you can include them in one, but with minor clarifications.
- Shurupov rt for mounting the frame and securing drywall to the sheathing.
- Medium sized spatula for applying putty and glue.
- Notched trowel for spreading glue over the surface of sheets.
- or a regular building level - for marking and monitoring the evenness of the wall being mounted.
- A sharp construction or stationery knife - for cutting material.
- An electric drill with a hammer drill and drill bits for concrete - for attaching frame structures to ceilings, walls, and floors.
- Mixer attachment for mixing glue (if it will be used to attach drywall to the wall) and putty compounds.
- Paint roller for priming wall surfaces.
- Container for adhesive composition with a volume of approximately 8 liters.
- Metal cutting scissors – for cutting galvanized profiles.
- Planer for processingedges– chamfering.
- Grout for processing sealed joints between sheets.
- Grinder - “grinder” and a disk for cutting thin metal.
- Cutter - for fastening metal profiles together.
- A rule that checks the evenness of a surface.
- Measuring and control tool - tape measure, plumb line, long metal ruler, square, simple pencil or marker.
Materials for working with drywall
Materials you will need to purchase:
- Drywall, which needs to be ordered 10÷15% more than the required quantity.
Drywall is produced in four types, and each of them is intended for use in different rooms depending on operating conditions. The sheets have their own recognized system color coding, by which you can easily determine the intended purpose of the material:
Three main types of drywall - regular, moisture-resistant and heat-resistant — Grey colour It has regular drywall(GKL), used in residential areas with normal air humidity.
— The pink or light purple color of the cardboard indicates that it is a heat-resistant material used for cladding walls around fireplaces and stoves. It is defined by the abbreviation GKLO.
— Green shades are inherent in moisture-resistant material, which is suitable for wall decoration, for example, in the bathroom. It is designated by the letters GKLV.
— Dark gray or blue color is assigned to drywall, which combines the qualities of both heat resistance and moisture resistance. This type is designated by the letters GKLVO, and it is used for finishing the walls of bathhouses or boiler rooms.
Sheet sizes various types drywall vary as follows:
| Drywall type | Thickness in mm | Width in mm | Sheet length in mm |
|---|---|---|---|
| GKL | 8,0; 9,5; 12,5;14; 16 | 1200 | |
| GKL | 18 and over | 600 | 1200 |
| GKLV | 10; 12,5; 14;16 | 1200 | standard - 2500 (up to 4000 mm on request) |
| GKLO | 12,5; 14; 16 | 1200 and 600 | similarly |
| GKLVO | 12,5; 14; 16 | 1200 | similarly |
- Metal profile for installing wall sheathing or mounting frame partition.
| Profile name | Appearance | Profile brand | Application area |
|---|---|---|---|
| Guide | Mon 50/40 | Frame guide profiles for cladding walls and creating partitions. | |
| PN 75/40 | |||
| PN 100/40 | |||
| Rack-mounted | Mon 50/50 | Frame racks for partitions and wall sheathing. | |
| PN 75/50 | |||
| PN 100/50 | |||
| PP 60/27 | Frame walls and suspended ceilings. | ||
| Guide | Mon 28/27 | ||
| Protective corner profile | PU 20/20 | Protection of external corners of partitions and walls. | |
| Note: in profile markings, the first number indicates the width, the second the height of the element. Profiles are produced standard length at 3000 mm. | |||
- Direct hangers - for attaching racks to the wall, if it is necessary to create a large thickness of insulation or to level a wall with large differences.
- Sealing tape that is glued to profiles mounted directly to the wall.
- Dry mortar– mounting adhesive for fixing drywall to walls without installing sheathing.
- before installing drywall and for preparation mounted structure for further puttying.
- Gypsum-based putty - for sealing joints between sheets and subsequent final leveling plasterboard wall.
- Reinforcing tape or mesh - for gluing joints when their puttying.
- Special screws for working with drywall.
- Dowels for securing profile posts to brick or concrete wall, ceiling, floor.
- Thermal insulation material - if you plan to insulate or soundproof wall or partition.
Prices for drywall and sheet materials
Drywall and sheet materials
Preparatory activities
Whatever method of installing drywall on the wall is chosen, it is imperative to prepare the surface before installing it. This must be done so that mold or mildew does not develop under the drywall, and when gluing the material, it fits tightly to the wall. The preparation process is not so complicated, but it will guarantee long-term operation new wall without carrying out repair work.
The work can be roughly divided into three stages - cleaning the wall, sealing cracks and priming the wall with antiseptic compounds.
- The first step is to clean the wall of old coatings, such as old peeling plaster and unnecessary wallpaper. If the plaster is of good quality and adheres well to the wall, then it can only be primed.
- Cleaning can be done using a spatula. If you have to remove wallpaper, it is recommended to wet it intensively by applying water to the surface using a roller with a soft nozzle. When the wallpaper gets wet, it will come off the wall more easily if you pick it up with a spatula.
- If the plaster layer is unreliable, unstable, peeling, or covered with cracks, then the damaged parts must be removed. This can be done in two ways:
- The first option is to knock down old decoration using a hammer drill, or manually with a chisel and hammer.
— The second option is to soak the plaster generously and carefully peel it off the wall with a spatula.
- If a brick wall is to be leveled by gluing plasterboard, then it is imperative to remove all protrusions that could remain on it after the masonry is completed. The protrusions will prevent the sheets from adhering well to the surface. Such irregularities are knocked down with a regular hammer or using a hammer drill.
After that, brick wall needs to be cleaned thoroughly iron brush from the remains of sand-cement mortar and dust.
- Next, if serious cracks are found on the wall, they need to be widened, cleaned, and after it dries, repaired plaster mixture, sealant or polyurethane foam. The last option is applicable if the crack in the wall or plaster layer is large enough.
- The next step is to treat the wall with an antiseptic primer. It is applied using a roller.
Priming is a mandatory step, and it is better to do it in two layers - All further work is carried out after the wall surface has completely dried.
Prices for different types of primer
Primer
Leveling walls by gluing drywall
Installing drywall using gluing is much easier than installing it on a frame. However, this method of fixing the finish is only possible if the wall surface does not have significant irregularities and deformations in the form of protrusions and depressions greater than 5 mm, and the ceiling level in the room does not exceed 3 meters.
This installation method is not suitable even when the wall is supposed to be soundproof or, since the materials for this will require a certain space under the plasterboard sheets.
This method is good for leveling not too quality walls to the ideal and creating a smooth surface for subsequent application or gluing of decorative finishing material.
The gluing work is carried out as follows:
- The prepared wall must be measured using a plumb line and a building level. If dents are found on the wall, they must be brought to the same level with the general surface, since in these places, after installing drywall, voids may form where condensation will collect. This is especially important to do in cases where.
All recesses and dents can be brought to the same level using self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the wall at a distance of 200÷300 mm from each other and to the same level as the entire wall. Then, on top of them they apply plaster mortar required thickness and level it along the heads of the screws and the rest of the surface.
Before moving on to next stage work, you must wait for the solution to harden well, since the plasterboard sheet will rest on it.
- The next step is to apply another layer of primer.
The primer will not only protect the wall from various biological influences, but will also create reliable adhesion between the wall, the adhesive and the drywall, which will speed up installation and improve the quality of work.
- Next, the mounting compound is mixed glue solution. To do this, water at room temperature is poured into a container, into which the dry powder mixture is poured and mixed using a construction mixer or a drill with an attachment installed on it. The manufacturer must indicate the proportions of the solution in the manufacturing instructions, which can always be found on the packaging.
It is very important to remember that gypsum-based glue begins to harden very quickly, so it is better to mix it in small portions, otherwise it can be ruined a large number of solution. Once the grasping process has started, it is impossible to stop it, even by adding additional water in an emergency.
- Further, it is necessary to ensure that the sheet of plasterboard does not rest against the floor surface during installation; it must be raised from it by approximately 8–10 mm. Therefore, a strip of such thickness is temporarily placed under the sheet being mounted.
- A sheet of plasterboard is laid horizontally on the floor, and the adhesive mass is applied to it pointwise, in slides, at a distance of 180÷200 mm from one another. After this, the solution is distributed a little, the sheet is lifted, installed in the right place and pressed against the wall.
- The installed sheet of drywall can be adjusted and leveled in the range of 7÷10 mm, for example, by tapping on it building level or a rule. If there is an unclosed space on top (and this is most often the case), then it would be best to cover it with fragments of plasterboard only after completing the installation of whole sheets of plasterboard on the entire wall, giving direction.
- Further, the work proceeds in the same order. All sheets are installed end-to-end, with factory chamfers adjacent. Obviously, there are no additional fragments or chamfers at the cut site. It is not present on the end sides of the gypsum board either. This means that for such joints you need to do it yourself, using a plane or knife.
- After installation is complete, the glue is allowed to dry thoroughly, so the tiled walls are left for about a day.
- After this, you can proceed to sealing the joints. First, it is recommended to treat them with a primer, and then, after the soil has dried, the joints of the sheets are glued with a sickle mesh, which reinforces the joints, and the layer of putty applied on top will not crack.
Apply to mesh-glued joints using a spatula. thin layer putties. It is best to immediately level it as much as possible so that after hardening there is less work by smoothing.
If the serpyanka tape does not have its own adhesive base, then serpyanka is first applied to the joint and on top of it, and then pressed into the solution with a spatula, after which the excess is removed.
- When the putty dries, it is rubbed using a special tool - grouting, on which fine-grain sandpaper or an abrasive mesh is installed.
After completing the sealing and drying of the seams, the entire surface is covered with a primer, which must also dry completely.
High-quality putty is the key to the aesthetic appearance of a plasterboard wall
Whatever technology is used when installing a plasterboard wall, the final stage before finishing is giving surfaces are ideally even and smooth using putty. How to do it correctly or for painting - in a special publication on our portal.
Leveling a wall with plasterboard using a frame structure
Installation on a frame is more difficult, but opens up more possibilities Installing drywall on a frame is a more complex and troublesome option, but you can’t do without it if you plan to additionally insulate the wall and soundproof. The frame can be made of galvanized metal profiles or wooden beam.
| Illustration | |
|---|---|
 | Preparatory work is underway. The wall is cleaned of loose plaster and treated with a primer. When leveling a wall with plasterboard, whether the structure will be with or without insulation, the coating base surface antiseptic composition is necessary. Next, the wall must be marked, marking vertical lines on it, which will serve as a guide for installing the racks. The step between the drains is taken to be 400 or 600 mm - these values fit well into standard width plasterboard sheet 1200 mm. |
 | The next step is to attach guide profiles to the ceiling and floor into which the racks will be installed and secured. |
 | Profiles can be attached to the floor, walls and ceiling using dowels, depending on the surface material - driven or screwed. Profiles can be secured to wooden bases with self-tapping screws |
 | To improve the quality of sound insulation, prevent the transmission of vibrations to the frame and the resonance of the plasterboard covering, before attaching the profiles to the floor, ceiling or wall, it is recommended to stick a special tape on its shelf adjacent to the surface. |
 | By fixing the upper and lower guides to the flow and floor perfectly exactly in one vertical plane(this must be controlled using a plumb line) you can proceed to installing the racks. It must be remembered that how accurately the guides are set, the entire plasterboard wall will be so even. |
 | The frame posts are installed inside the guides, aligned along the marking lines, they are given a vertical position, and then they are fixed using a cutter. If there is no such tool, then fastening can be carried out using self-tapping screws |
 | In this photo you can clearly see the mounted frame, but it is not yet completely secured to the wall with the help of hangers. |
 | Next, each of the racks must be fixed with several direct hangers. These brackets are fixed to the wall with dowels at a vertical distance of 500÷600 mm from each other. |
 | Then, using self-tapping screws, the racks are fixed to the hangers (the verticality of the profile must be checked again). This makes the structure rigid, connected to the main wall. |
 | In this photo, the racks of the entire frame are fixed to the wall, and the sheathing is ready for further work. |
 | The protruding parts of the suspensions are bent to the sides. When the sheathing is ready, you can lay out all the communication wiring if, for example, you plan to install sockets or switches on this wall. |
 | If the wall will be additionally insulated, then after the installation of the frame is completed, thermal insulation material – mineral wool – is placed between the studs. Next, the insulation must be covered with a vapor barrier membrane. On wooden sheathing it is attached using a stapler and staples, and on metal - using double-sided masking or mounting tape. |
 | After this, they proceed to the installation of drywall. According to the technology, it is recommended to install the bottom sheets with a gap of about 10 mm from the floor - for this, temporary pads can be used during the installation process, for example, wooden slats. This is necessary so that the sheet from below does not begin to crumble under its own weight. Usually the height of the sheet is not enough to cover the entire space of the wall to the ceiling - there will be a section on top that will later be covered with a separate fragment. It is recommended that the sheets, starting from the second and onwards, be laid “in a staggered manner”, so that the horizontal seams are spaced apart: one on top, the next on the bottom, etc. An example is shown in the figure. |
 | Drywall is fixed with special self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the profiles directly through the sheet, without pre-drilling. Fastening is carried out in all racks and jumpers (if any). In this case, the self-tapping screw should not be located closer than 10 mm to any of the edges of the sheet. After screwing in, the screw head should “sink” into the drywall by about 1 mm. The pitch between screws is from 250 to 350 mm. If suddenly the self-tapping screw “doesn’t work”, then after removing it, you cannot screw another one into the same hole - you need to step back at least 50 mm. |
 | This photo clearly shows the remaining area that is not filled with drywall, and it needs to be covered. To do this, it is necessary to install a profile cross member between the racks, to which the upper edge of the already mounted sheet and the lower side of the missing fragment will be attached with self-tapping screws. |
 | To fix the crossbar on the racks, you can attach specially made corners from sections of the profile. |
 | The finished crossbar is installed between the posts, pushed halfway under the installed sheet and fastened to the corners using a cutter or self-tapping screws. |
 | Another option for making a jumper. Measure and cut off a section from the profile equal to the distance between the posts plus the width of the rack profile, since the wide part of the cross member should be located on the posts between which it will be fixed. Then, the side flanges of the crossbar are cut to a distance equal to half the width of the profile and bent outward at a right angle. They will become the shelves through which the fastening is carried out using a cutter or self-tapping screws |
 | A fragment of plasterboard sheet of the required dimensions is measured and cut out. After this, it is mounted on the racks and top part installed cross member. A chamfer is made along the edges of the sheets at the joint using a sharp knife or plane - this is necessary so that the joining line of the fragments can be properly filled. This chamfer is made on all edges where it is not provided for by the design of the sheet itself. The fragments are fastened with self-tapping screws according to the usual rules. |
 | A wall covered with plasterboard should look something like this. |
 | After this, a sickle mesh is glued to all joints, and then they are sealed with putty. In addition, all holes must be puttied away from the heads of the screws so that they do not appear later rusty spots through decorative trim. The final stage of the work is to cover all plasterboard-lined walls with a primer, and after it dries, with putty. |
Installation of a lightweight plasterboard partition
Installation is somewhat similar to wall cladding using a frame structure. But there are also some differences here: the frame is fixed to the walls only at the ends, and is sheathed with plasterboard on both sides.
The frame partition made of gypsum plasterboard has the following basic design:
- The frame is mounted from wooden beams or galvanized metal profiles. The frame racks are mounted at a distance from each other based on the width of the plasterboard sheet, so that its edges are half their width, and at least one rack is located in the middle of the sheet. It should be noted that quite often the frame is made combined, that is, in some places a wooden beam is inserted into the metal profile for rigidity.
- The frame is sheathed on both sides with plasterboard. Sometimes it is practiced to cover one or both sides with two layers of material.
- Soundproofing (insulating) materials are placed between the sheathing sheets. mats– as a rule, basalt mineral wool is used for this.
Installation of a plasterboard partition is carried out as follows:
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation performed |
|---|---|
 | The first step is to determine the location of the partition and mark it. To do this, points are determined on the wall and floor using a laser or regular level and a tape measure, which are then combined into lines using a colored paint cord. |
 | Then, focusing on the line on the wall and floor, using a plumb line, the points for marking the markings on the ceiling are determined. |
 | You immediately need to determine the location of the doorway and make marks on the ceiling and floor to install perfectly vertical racks. The horizontal guide is fixed to the floor only before and after the measured area reserved for the doorway. |
 | After accurately marking all surfaces, the area where the metal profiles are secured will be immediately visible. The first to be fixed to the walls, ceiling and floor are the guides, into which the racks will then be installed. |
 | These elements are secured using dowels (with wooden bases self-tapping screws are used). First, through holes are drilled through the guides, and then dowels are inserted and driven into them (screws are screwed in). |
 | Next, when the frame for the frame is ready, you need to immediately install the racks that will frame the doorway. It is recommended to immediately make inlays from wooden beams into these profiles. The racks are installed from floor to ceiling and secured in the guides with screws that are screwed in on both sides. |
 | It’s even better if two racks combined with beams are installed nearby. This design will make the frame more rigid and reliable. |
 | The next step is to measure and mark the height of the doorway, where the transverse element will be fixed to complete its formation. To do this, the profile is cut at the corners, the side parts are bent and secured to the racks. |
 | In order to give rigidity to the crossbar and the entire opening, the crossbar must be additionally connected to a guide fixed to the ceiling with one or two short posts. |
 | Next, all other racks are installed in the guides and fixed in a strictly vertical position using a cutter or self-tapping screws. The pitch between the racks is the same as indicated in the previous instructions - 400 or 600 mm. |
 | After installing the racks, you can proceed to installing the drywall sheets. They are installed and secured according to the same principle as when covering a wall. There is no need to cut drywall in the area of the doorway in advance. It will be more convenient to attach a solid sheet to the frame and make cuts on it with a sharp knife. |
 | The upper side of the resulting rectangle is cut through, and on the longer side, only the cardboard is cut through - then it will break exactly along the cut. |
 | Having finished installing the sheets of drywall on one side, you can start installing communication cables, for which small holes are made in certain places of the profiles - with the expectation that a pipe with wires (corrugated or smooth-walled) will pass through them. It is prohibited to pass cables through holes in galvanized profiles without a sleeve tube. |
 | In the selected location, where the placement of sockets and switches is planned, socket holes are drilled on the installed gypsum board sheets for mounting socket boxes. Cable wiring is supplied to them. |
 | If this was planned, thermal and sound insulating material (mineral wool) is laid. Insulation panels or mats must be installed spaced between the studs. |
 | Having completed the soundproofing process, a door frame is installed in the doorway. It is leveled, and if necessary, wedges are carefully driven into the gaps between it and the frame to help fix it in the desired position. Then, it is screwed to the frame posts. If there are sufficiently large gaps around it, they need to be filled with polyurethane foam, wait until it dries and carefully cut off the excess. |
 | After this, the drywall is fixed on the other side of the partition. The installation principle does not change. The drywall on the doorway is fixed and cut out in the same way as in the previous case. |
 | The final stage before priming and puttying the entire surface is sealing the joints between the sheets and the holes from the screw heads. |
It is very important to carry out quality work, as they will determine the smoothness of the surface of the plasterboard wall, and this will determine appearance decorative finishing.
Video: master class on building a light frame partition from plasterboard
Working with drywall is a creative process, and if you really feel like doing it yourself, then you can safely get down to business. Having prepared all the tools and materials, as well as having studied the installation instructions, even the hardworking owner of an apartment or house who has not previously had close contact with the construction business can carry out this event.
Many of us are sure that drywall is modern construction material, which came into use only at the end of the last century. No! In fact, this type of material has been used for about 200 years. Of course, production technologies have changed during this time, but this does not change the following fact: everyone can master the basic aspects of handling drywall on their own.
As a rule, today no one uses wooden blocks for mounting the frame, U-shaped metal profiles are used instead.
Working with drywall occurs using 4 types of profiles.
- Guide profiles for creating a frame, also often called PN or UW. They have a standard depth of 40 mm, and the width can be 50, 75 or 100 mm. Guide profiles are used to create the basis for fastening rack and ceiling profiles.
- Ceiling guides (PNP or UD) have the same functions as the previous profiles, but are used for installing suspended ceilings.
- Ceiling profiles (PP or CD) are designed to create a frame and lintels. They are inserted into guides and secured to the ceiling with hangers, crabs, and anchor clamps.
- Rack profiles (PS or CW) are used when it is necessary to install plasterboard partitions or to create walls. They are fixed into guides.
Basic fasteners for frame profile- self-tapping screws, the length of which is from 9 to 12 mm. There are also rivets and assembly pliers (cutter) for connecting several profiles. The frame is attached to the wall or ceiling using anchors or dowel-nails.
Do not be intimidated by the large set of parts used when installing drywall. This is far from full list what they use professional builders. In addition, do not forget that one-time work only implies the presence of direct hangers, CD and UD, dowel-nails or anchors.
Particular attention should be paid to the tools for installing drywall on walls. 
Since you will have to drill holes in profiles, walls and other materials, buy or rent a hammer drill, the impact force of which is 3-5 J. Using a hammer drill, making a hole in concrete is much easier than using an impact drill. She just can't handle that many holes. In addition, the hammer drill is perfect for kneading various mixtures for puttying and installation. For this you need a special mixer attachment.
No less important is cordless screwdriver with a set of special attachments for screwing screws with different types hats
In addition to power tools, hand tools are also used:
- hammer;
- metal scissors;
- screwdriver;
- stationery knife;
- markers;
- laser level or hydraulic level;
- planer for drywall;
- pliers.
To attach one frame post with a height of 2.5 m to the wall, use five direct hangers, that is, 1 hanger every 50 cm.
To secure each, two anchors are used; a total of 10 holes need to be drilled. The distance between the posts is 60 cm, so for a wall 6 m long and 2.5 m high you will need 7 frame posts and 70 holes.
How to work with drywall
Working with drywall means, first of all, creating a frame and then covering it. Usually, leveling walls, erecting partitions, arches and niches.
Installing drywall with your own hands is as follows.
- Step back from the wall at least 3 cm (profile width), and make marks: using a plumb line or laser level draw a line on which the plasterboard wall will be located.
- Attach the main guide UD profiles to the floor and ceiling. Their edge should follow your line.
- After this, you need to install vertical racks from CD profiles. To do this, they are inserted into the guides and screwed to each other with self-tapping screws.
- To give rigidity to the CD profiles, they are attached to the wall every 50 cm using hangers, which are fastened to the wall with two dowel nails. The hangers are screwed to the profiles with self-tapping screws, and their corners are bent.
- The width of a standard sheet of plasterboard is 120 cm, so the distance between the centers of CD profiles is 60 cm.
- After mounting the frame, insulation, electrical wiring, water pipes or heating pipes are placed in it.
- When installing plasterboard sheets on the ceiling, not only direct hangers are used, but also wire ties and “butterflies”, which have special steel “wings” that fix the ties at the required distance from the ceiling.
Types of fasteners for creating a frame - assumes that you use special fastenings for this - anchors.
- Self-tapping screws for installing drywall are screwed in in increments of 25-30 centimeters.
If you need to cut a sheet of drywall, you can very easily do it yourself. To do this, use a utility knife to cut the cardboard and a few millimeters of the gypsum layer, and then break it on the corner of the table. Cut off the second layer of paper after the break.
How to seal sheet joints
After installation is completed, it is necessary. When joining entire sheets, the edges must form the required shape, and when installing cut pieces, a chamfer is cut to ensure a triangular seam. 
For filling assembly seam use putty. The joint is reinforced with a painting mesh (serpyanka). Serpyanka is used after filling the seam with putty, then it is puttied clean. To strengthen the corners, you can use reinforcing perforated corners.
If working with drywall requires creating curved structures, you can bend the sheet yourself. To do this, use a spiked roller to make holes in a sheet of cardboard and moisten it generously with water. After 10-15 minutes, the plaster will get wet, and you can give it any shape without any problems.
This technique is often used for and.
Nowadays, not a single apartment renovation can be done without this. practical material like drywall. If you learn how to work with it correctly, you will be able to create amazing designs for hiding communications, creating partitions and zoning rooms.
Working with a profile for plasterboard Design of gypsum boards How to cut plasterboard How to attach plasterboard to a profile
Hello dear homemade people.
Let's look at the nuances that await you when working with drywall, knowing which you can significantly reduce the repair budget.
Working with drywall profiles
To work with the profile you will need the following tool:
1. Metal scissors.
2. Pliers.
3. Metal square.
5. Roulette.
The first pitfalls appear when cutting the profile.
Although there are guide notches in the form of dots on its plane, it is better to make precise markings of the cut.
To mark, it is better to use a metal square and a scratch. The pencil is not visible on metal profile, and the scratch is visible better and will not be erased accidentally.
After cutting, the following bends remain on the profile:
.
It seems like a small thing, 2-3 mm. but later, when assembling the structure, this little thing will move the plane away, because the ceiling profile is inserted into the bypass profile, and such bends will expand the latter.
I have often heard that they say the plasterboard will tighten up. No, it won’t wait. Or it will wait, but not everything. So it's better to take pliers and straighten out these bends.
The same applies to partition profiles. If you want less putty to be used for subsequent finishing, then don’t be lazy and trim the unnecessary protrusions formed when cutting the profile.
A couple of times I came across lightweight profiles. Their price is lower, but the metal is thinner.
Under no circumstances should you be fooled by the price of such a profile. The thin metal does not properly hold the self-tapping screw, which then cannot be used to properly tighten the drywall.
As a result, while you save on the price of the profile, you will lose on putty consumption.
GCR design.
If you have never assembled a plasterboard structure yourself, then it is best to contact the creator of this technology, the Knauf company, for information. Follow the link to find technical advice on installing the structure.
I will point out some little things not shown there that can significantly lighten your wallet, and knowing which, you can avoid this relief.
Let's start by attaching the profiles to each other with self-tapping screws. A seed is a small self-tapping screw intended only for connecting profiles.
It is better not to use seeds on a plane to which a sheet of drywall will then be attached. Or do it with one condition, which is discussed below.
Here is an example of a plane that is covered with plasterboard:
And here is the seed that holds the ceiling and bypass profiles together:
Now we attach the sheet to this plane (I really didn’t spoil the sheet and attached the strip just to show you):
Let’s substitute a ruler for clarity:
This is how the plane turned out to be “flat”. And they do this all the time!
Such masters have a life-affirming thought firmly in their heads: “It’s okay, it’ll be smoothed out with putty.”
Of course it will even out. The putty man will swear and level it, and your loot, with a joyful cry of “Hurray, freedom,” will fly away from your stuffy and dark wallet. It doesn’t matter that he won’t be free for long. This will probably be of little comfort to you.
For reference.
If the package of putty is 25 kg. costs on average 350 rubles, and its consumption, with a layer thickness of one millimeter, is approximately 1.5 kg. per square meter, then every extra millimeter of layer costs about 20 rubles per square meter.
The thickness of the seed cap is 2.5 mm.
It turns out that there are several millimeters, but square meters A few dozens. This is the price of unaligned ends when cutting a profile, and improper fastening of profiles to each other.
It happens when there is no other choice but to put a seed on the front part. In this case, we apply the sheet going to this place and press it lightly, so as not to break it, but so that the screw head leaves a dent on the drywall, and in this place we make a recess.
Now we attach this sheet, without fear of bending the plane.
The next point is the use of direct hangers, extensions, clips, and crabs.
In use direct suspension, there are no nuances.
Extensions and clips should not be fixed to the profile with seeds, as the self-tapping screw will “lead” the profile a little, and it will only get worse.
But crabs are a controversial thing. They are conceived correctly - the crab creates a rigid crosshair, which in theory should set a flat plane for the structure.
In practice, it turns out differently. Firstly, 8 seeds provided for installing a crab are clearly too much.
As I said above, each seed slightly changes the profile. To prevent this from happening, you need to hit the tip of the seed exactly in the center of the mounting hole, holding the screwdriver perpendicular to the profile plane, which is almost impossible, especially when installing a ceiling.
Therefore, it is better to make the crosshair in a different way. No crabs. In addition, this method is easier, since it requires 4 seeds, instead of 8, and is cheaper, since crab is a relatively expensive thing.
We cut the end of the profile as follows, bend the side planes, and attach it to the transverse one.
To cut drywall you will need a knife and a ruler.
You can buy a special knife for drywall, but a simple wallpaper knife is also suitable, and a profile is usually used as a ruler.
The process is as follows: a layer of cardboard is cut along a ruler, then the sheet is broken, and a second layer of cardboard is cut through.
The nuances in this matter are as follows:
1. Drywall should be cut on a flat and relatively clean surface. Lumps and debris trapped under the sheet can break the drywall.
2. You need to cut through the cardboard with pressure. The deeper the cut, the smoother the break will be.
3. Since the knife is driven with pressure, at the end of the cut it jumps off the sheet, and so that at this moment the tip of the blade is not damaged, something needs to be placed at the end of the sheet (a piece of plasterboard, plywood, etc.).
4. Immediately after cutting, be sure to chamfer the end of the sheet that is joined to another sheet.
5. For cutting out a segment, a hacksaw blade for metal is suitable.
6. If you need to cut a thin strip, or trim a sheet by a centimeter - one and a half, it is better to cut through the cardboard on both sides, and then break the strip.
How to attach drywall to a profile
1. The self-tapping screw securing the gypsum board sheet to the frame is screwed in perpendicular to the plane. Running obliquely, it can break through the top layer of cardboard with one edge of the cap, while the opposite one will remain sticking out above the plane.
2. Under no circumstances should the screw head break through the top layer of cardboard and sink into the plaster, as this means that the fastening in this place is weak. Upper layer The cardboard is torn, the plaster underneath is destroyed, leaving only one bottom layer of cardboard.
3. The head of the self-tapping screw should not protrude above the plane of the sheet, as this will turn the putter’s work into hell, because the spatula will constantly bump into this self-tapping screw.
4. The cut ends of the sheet must be cut at an angle to the inner plane. Otherwise, the probability of a crack appearing at the joint will approach 100%.
5. Do not screw in self-tapping screws where one profile overlaps another. These are corners, crosshairs and entry points into the bypass profile.
The figure shows in red the places where you cannot screw in a self-tapping screw.
6. The seeds are screwed in at the second speed of the screwdriver, the screws securing the sheet are at the first
You can read about how to use scraps of drywall and profiles in the article
Wish labor successes when working with drywall
