Noticeable communications in the bathroom do not add attractiveness to the room. How to close the pipes in the toilet? We offer you several fairly simple and reliable options for upgrading a room without compromising its functionality.

We have already looked at how it is possible. The same methods are suitable for the toilet. Let's remember them.

Plastic panels or plasterboard

The fastest way to close communications in the toilet is with plastic panels. They are suitable regardless of the finish of the walls, floors and ceilings. The main thing is to choose the color and pattern.

Advantages of this material:

• environmental friendliness;
• simple installation;
• quick installation;
• low cost;
• the ability to install a door to access meters or spikes where breakthroughs are possible;
• possibility of installing a collapsible structure;
• no additional finishing required.

The second convenient material option for the structure with which the pipes will be masked is drywall. A toilet is not a bathroom, but it’s still better to use a moisture-resistant one. Advantages:

• environmental friendliness;
• simple installation;
• low cost;
• possibility of installing a collapsible structure;
• possibility of installing a door for access to communications.

The only drawback of drywall is the need to finish it. But, on the other hand, you can make it the same as the rest of the walls in the toilet.

When you decide on the material for the box, you will need to choose its design. Below we will describe all possible options for installing structures made of plasterboard and PVC panels.

Regardless of the method you choose, don't forget about access to counters and spikes. To do this, you need to install a door. It can be hidden, or it can be ordinary white metal, these are sold in almost any hardware store.

The whole wall is closed

The first option for hiding communication pipes in a toilet is to cover the entire wall with pipes. This is done on a metal profile box. In the space where there are no pipes behind the decorative wall, you can make storage for small items(toilet paper, household chemicals, etc.).

There must be at least 3 cm between the mounted wall to cover the pipes and the pipes themselves! This does not depend on the type of structure chosen.

Oblique false wall

If the pipes only run from the side, then you do not have to cover the entire back wall of the room; it is enough to cover only the corner with communications.

Square box

If you are wondering how to cover the pipes in a toilet and leave more space, then the answer is simple: make a box just around the pipes. If they go in the corner along the walls, then you get a kind of column in the room. If they walk on the floor, then it will look like a step.

Multi-level box

If the pipes do not run clearly along a certain wall, but, for example, only to its middle, then you can make a multi-level box and use it as a shelf for decoration, household chemicals or something else. This method is not suitable for installation from plastic panels.

Roller shutters

Roller blinds are successfully used to hide pipes. They are installed less often than structures made of plasterboard or PVC panels, because the installation itself takes longer, the structure is more expensive, and the appearance is not very attractive, that is, it is not very attractive. But this way you get access to any pipes behind the panel and space for storing small items. Of course, for the latter you will have to make several shelves.

Utility cabinet

A very convenient and attractive way to cover pipes in a toilet room is to install cabinets made of chipboard, wood or plywood. The lower part of the pipes can be covered with a plastic screen that matches the color. This way you kill two birds with one stone: you create additional storage space and decorate communications.

The only disadvantage of this method is the price. It is the highest compared to all other options, even if you install everything yourself.

Decorating pipes

Using a little ingenuity and skill in making various hand-made products, you can decorate the pipes that run through the room using mosaics, decorative painting, rhinestones and other interesting techniques or materials.

The choice of method and materials for decorating or hiding pipes in the toilet always remains with the owners. There are no strict recommendations or contraindications for any of the options listed above. Even in a small room, it is usually possible to install a structure made of plasterboard, PVC panels or chipboard boxes.

Sewer and water pipes, couplings, meters, valves, taps - all this will in no way add beauty and comfort to your toilet, as well as to the bathroom. This means that they need to be hidden somehow: the exception may probably be certain taste preferences, such as the loft style, which is generally characterized by such “delights” as open pipes, electrical wiring, bare brick walls and unpainted or aged boards. But this is a rather specific style that has a limited circle of admirers, so we will figure out how to hide these pipes in the toilet.

And all this needs to be hidden somehow...

Most often, several of the most common and practical ways masking communications:

• false wall,
• box,
• locker,
• blinds (as a cabinet option),
• decor.

Of the options presented, pipes are most often hidden using a box or behind a false wall, so we will first consider these two methods.

If one of them is closer to you, you need to decide on the materials from which they will be made. Plastic panels and plasterboard are especially trusted: both of these materials have both advantages and disadvantages - for example, plastic is easier to install and does not need finishing, while a plasterboard construction will make it possible to make the panel hiding the pipes almost indistinguishable from the rest of the walls, which, of course, Fine. Important Note: drywall for use in the bathroom and toilet should be moisture-resistant.

When installing a box or false wall, be sure to think through such an important component as access doors to control and measuring units (meters), valves, taps, and places of possible leaks (as a rule, these are places of screw-threaded connections). There are two options for solving this “problem”: buy a special metal door of a suitable size or fool around with hidden option, when the door does not differ in appearance from the surfaces surrounding it.

False wall

If pipes and other components are located near the plane of the wall, you can cover the entire wall by mounting a frame made of a metal profile, which is covered with plasterboard (or plastic). When calculating the distance from a real wall to a decorative one, you should proceed from the rule that the distance between the pipes and the panel cannot be less than 3 centimeters! If conditions allow, make the total distance larger, and here’s why: often in the part where there are no communications and the space is “walking”, it is used wisely, arranging a niche in which you can place shelves, cabinets for various useful little things, household chemicals, reserves toilet paper etc.

Thus, the farther you place the false wall from the real one, the deeper the niche will be, but do not overdo it - free access to communications and their convenient maintenance are still more important!

How to close the sewer riser in the toilet methods

IN ordinary apartment With separate bathroom almost all pipes are located in the toilet. This is where, as a rule, meters are located and taps are made. And without that small toilet looks like a technical room. And the toilet ended up here completely by accident.

There are several ways to hide all this disgrace.

1. Construction of a false wall.

One of the simplest and most common options is to completely cover the riser in the toilet with plasterboard. You need to keep in mind that a false wall will take up about half a meter of free space. The toilet room is already small, and after sewing up the riser, not everyone will be able to sit freely on the toilet.

Exit - wall hung toilet. A special frame on which the plumbing fixture is mounted, and cistern will be hidden behind drywall. This will save space.

A false wall can be not only attractive, but also functional. If equipped free space shelves, you can store household items there.

2. Construction of a square box.

This method is suitable if all the pipes are in one corner. The box saves free space. And with this option, you need to leave the door opposite the meters and valves.

3. Equipment of an oblique false wall.

It goes at an acute angle to the side or back wall. It is advisable to use this method of masking the riser in the case when thinner pipes extend to the side from the main pipe. The toilet will have to be moved a little to the side.

4. Creating a multi-level box.

When pipes are “scattered along the walls” of the toilet room, it is better to build a multi-level structure. Each of its elements will cover a separate section of the network.

The box can be two-level or three-level. Building it, of course, is more difficult. But space is saved and you get stands for important little things.

How to get rid of a pipe once and for all

For those who are not looking for easy ways and prefer to do everything thoroughly, there is a radical way to get rid of the riser - moving it to the wall. As a result, the area of ​​the room is not reduced; a flat and smooth wall fits perfectly into the interior conceived by the designers.

The walls will become smooth and nothing will disturb the harmony

This option is not possible in every house, but only where the thickness of the partitions allows cutting out the grooves. The capital method will require a complete replacement of communications, including passages through ceilings, you will have to notify neighbors, and incur additional costs.

Another way to remove unsightly parts is to install hanging plumbing fixtures. This process requires a professional approach; the thickness of the walls does not always allow this.

Hanging plumbing not only hides ugly pipes, but also adds lightness to the room

A simple option for protection from plastic panels

Plastic is an ideal option for constructing a false wall; it is not afraid of humidity, temperature changes, and mold. rot, easy to clean, quickly disassembled if necessary. A significant advantage of the panels is that they do not have to be puttyed or painted - just choose the shade and pattern to match the color of the tile.

The color of the panels can be easily matched to the shade of the tiles

To attach the panels, you need to build the same frame as for a plasterboard screen. Use this method to make a false wall and a box. Tax ceramic tiles or apply textured plaster It won’t work on a plastic coating; for these cases you will have to choose drywall.

Actual work

Everything was tested, invented, materials were purchased. Now the work itself.

1. Installation of the frame.

If oriented strand board is used for cladding, then we make the frame from wooden blocks. For drywall we use a metal profile. How to cover the riser in the toilet with plastic panels? Better on a wooden frame.

• We install vertical guides according to the level.
• Fastening crossbars to add rigidity. The pitch is determined by the dimensions of the sheathing material, as well as taking into account the dimensions of the inspection hatch.

2. Sheathing.

For solid structures, plasterboard is more suitable. To create removable siding, it is preferable to use oriented strand board. She's stronger. And dismantling will not harm her.

3. Finishing.

Tile tiles are attached to the casing using glue, and plastic panels using staples. You can simply putty and paint.

If highly visible communications located in the bathroom spoil the interior of the room, then this is not a problem. Find out how to close the riser in the bathroom and get to work.

To avoid having to mask numerous and long pipes, draw up a diagram of all communications in advance and try to arrange them and plumbing so that, in the end, all utilitarian details remain as unnoticeable and hidden from view as possible. But this is not always possible, and often it is simply impossible to completely hide a boner. But such a problem is not as difficult as it seems if you know how to solve it.

Sewage connection diagram

Sewerage layout

Even at the design stage of a house, a drainage system should be developed that would harmoniously fit into its structure. Initially, the diagram marks the location of the common vertical riser. It is usually located in the bathroom or toilet. Horizontal lines diverge from its lower part. drain pipes. It is to these pipes that all plumbing fixtures are connected via siphons.

The bathroom usually has a sink, bathtub and washing machine. In the toilet, a toilet and a bidet (if available) are connected. The kitchen usually has one sink or a shared dishwasher. The sewerage scheme in the house provides for an inclination of all horizontal pipes towards the riser of at least 3 degrees to ensure gravity flow of drain water.

Elements of the sewer system

Installation internal sewerage performed using key elements, without which it is impossible to do.

The elements of the home sewerage system include plumbing fixtures, connecting pipes, fittings, splitters, siphons, and elements for fastening the pipeline to the walls. The pipes now used are predominantly polypropylene or metal-plastic. Steel pipes are already out of use. The exceptions are copper pipes or products from of stainless steel. However, their cost is very high. The connecting elements are made of the same material.

Plastic risers are now also used. However, if you are not replacing the main riser, which is made of cast iron, then you will need additional rubber adapters to connect plastic pipes and cast iron riser. Boner has standard size 100 mm. In some cases, when we are talking about a multi-storey building above five floors, a riser with a diameter of 150 mm can be used.

The purpose of the riser is to compensate for water hammer in the system and the absence of foreign odors in the house. If it is not possible to lead the riser up, outside the house, then install a vacuum valve, which solves the same problems. The diameters of horizontal drain pipes are usually 50 mm.

Laying sewer pipes in the house

We will prepare everything necessary for installing the sewer system.

Installed sewer pipes

The rules for installing sewer pipes provide for the use of the following tools:

• Scissors for cutting polypropylene pipes.
• Hammer.
• Hacksaw for cutting metal.
• Level.

First, all elements of the system are brought together. That is, they are trimmed and tried on. It is better to cut pipes with special scissors, but you can also use a hacksaw.

Installation of sewer pipes in the house is carried out at the bottom of the wall, observing the required slope to the riser. After joining the pipes, the pipeline is secured to the walls using a hammer drill and special round latches. Connection fittings They also have sockets with seals, so all connections are easy to make.

In this way, literally in one day, you can completely mount sewer system in my house. Everything necessary for these purposes is now on sale.

The easiest way out of roller shutters

The fastest way to solve the problem of hiding the sewerage is with the help of roller shutters. This design maximizes access to the pipes, while there are no doors cluttering the space. Hanging blinds requires no experience, and beautiful curtains do not require any additional finishing.

Plumbing roller shutters are not only beautiful, but also practical

In response to the increased demand, manufacturers produce special sanitary roller shutters, endowing them with noise-insulating and heat-saving properties. If desired, it is easy to choose a color that harmonizes with the decoration of the entire room.

Space saving hiding box

The wall completely covers the utility part of the room, but noticeably reduces usable area. In order to save space, as well as to cover protruding risers, build a concealment box, hiding sewer pipe. Making a frame for the box will be a little more difficult, since you will have to tinker with the corners. A strong corner can be easily obtained from two ud-profiles fastened together, with the shelves directed at right angles.

Depending on the location of the elements that need decoration, the protection system can be triangular or tetrahedral. When there are many protruding parts below, and only a riser is located at the top, you can build a multi-level box. This will create more space and create an additional shelf for storing small items.

Choose galvanized profiles for the frame. For a separate toilet, where the humidity is significantly less, it is allowed to use wooden blocks.

Capital method plasterboard wall

The easiest way to hide the sewage system running in a technical niche is to use a false wall. Use plywood or chipboard as a material, but plasterboard is considered the best option. One sheet of dry plaster will be enough for the job; it must be green in color - this is what moisture-resistant drywall looks like, suitable for use in wet rooms.

A completely closed technical niche is difficult to see with the naked eye

The frame of the false wall is made of galvanized profiles (which is preferable) or wooden blocks. When marking the places where the profiles are attached, it is necessary to take into account that the distance between the partition and the riser must be at least 3 cm. First, the guide profiles are attached to the walls, then to the floor.

If you plan to decorate a plasterboard screen tiles, then it is necessary to provide a distance between the rack profiles of no more than 40 cm. In cases where there are already ceramic tiles on the walls, drilling should be done in the joints between the tiles.

Drywall is cut according to pre-prepared drawings and attached to the frame using self-tapping screws. The finished wall is puttied and decorated taking into account your own wishes and the overall design. To simplify work with the inspection door and make it less noticeable, use a simple but convenient magnetic mount.

Video on how to close the riser

If your own experience to carry out quality repairs not enough, you can always ask for qualified help to specialists. Professionals will quickly evaluate all possible options, carry out calculations and forever hide the ugly sewer from view in the most appropriate way.

Is it possible to close a sewer riser? Yes, you can, the main thing is to do it right. There are several ways to do this job.

Application of a false wall. This is the most capital method. In order to make it, you will need plywood or chipboard

Use galvanized profiles to frame the false wall. Attach the profiles to the walls, then to the floor. There should be a distance of 3 cm between the partitions. The drywall is secured to the frame using self-tapping screws. The sewer pipeline is hidden in the box. This design can be triangular or tetrahedral. Sometimes multi-level boxes are installed. This method — best option, if you close the riser in the bathroom. If you have a separate toilet, you can use wooden blocks instead of galvanized profiles.

Plastic panels. This is very practical material, which is not affected by external irritants such as humidity, temperature changes, mold. They are also easy to disassemble and assemble, no need to paint or putty. It is enough just to choose plastic panels of the required color. You will need to build a frame for the wall and box, and lay the panels.

Roller shutters. If you don't want to waste time on complex methods, you can close the sewer pipes with roller shutters. They do not require finishing, they are easy to install, as they are ordinary blinds, and they provide maximum access to the riser. Now there are special designs, for example, with sound insulation and heat conservation.

• A box made of plasterboard or plastic. Use a metal profile and simply cover it with plastic.
• Utility cabinet. This is a great option to disguise valves, filters, meters and pipes and store cleaning products and household items. Make a frame from wooden blocks, secure it with dowels to the walls of the toilet, install hinges and doors. Laminated chipboard and plywood are suitable for making a cabinet.

Ways to disguise a boner

So how can you close the riser in the bathroom? This can be done in a variety of ways:

• Disguise in the walls. In this way, you can hide the riser only at the stage of its installation. And the work is very difficult and time-consuming, be prepared for this. First you need to draw up and transfer to the wall a diagram of the location of all communications. Then, using a hammer drill, you should make recesses slightly larger than the diameter of the pipes. Next, pipes are laid in the grooves. Then it is advisable to cover the entire surface with plasterboard, chipboard, plywood or PVC panels to create a kind of false wall. It is not recommended to fill the depressions with concrete; if it breaks and is dismantled, you can seriously damage the riser.
• Closet. Yes, you can hide the riser in the closet. Moreover, you can either purchase a ready-made piece of furniture with a missing back wall and slots in the shelves, or make it yourself from an ordinary one. You will need to remove the rear section. Then, using a crown and a drill, make holes in the shelves corresponding to the diameter of the pipes. This method will not only hide the riser, but also provide additional space for storing products or hygiene items.
• The box is the most common way to disguise communications. It is convenient because you can purchase a ready-made design at a plumbing store. required sizes. It is easy to install, so installation will not be difficult. In addition, there is different variants shapes and configurations: triangular, rounded, rectangular boxes, as well as those consisting of one or several levels.
• Plasterboard partition. To mount it, you must first install a durable frame, which is usually made of galvanized profiles. Although some use wooden beams, this material requires additional processing moisture-protective and antifungal agents. Next, the plasterboard sheets themselves are attached to the frame using self-tapping screws, and it is advisable to use moisture-resistant ones, since the humidity in the bathroom is significantly increased. Next stage- this is finishing. You can use different materials, but the most practical and preferred are PVC panels and ceramic tiles.
• Construction made of plastic panels. Plastic panels are practical, inexpensive, moisture-resistant, lightweight and relatively easy to install, as they have convenient joints. But the only drawback of using them is the complete lack of sound insulation; any sounds will penetrate through them. If this does not bother you, then get to work. First install the frame, which can be made in the same way as for plasterboard partition. But in this case it is advisable to use a metal profile. Install plastic panels on it. The joints can be masked with corners.
• Roller shutters will not only hide all communications from view, but also provide unhindered access to them. At any time, you can move the shutter to, for example, open or close a valve or troubleshoot problems. Roller shutters are installed in guides. In this case, the riser itself should be located in a recess so that it does not interfere with the movement of the shutter. And along the edges of such a recess the frame is mounted future design. Currently, you can purchase special roller shutters designed for bathrooms and toilet rooms. They not only play the role of camouflage, but also perform hydro- and sound-proofing functions, as they are equipped with an additional internal coating.

The problem of masking pipes in a bathroom room faces those homeowners who are trying to give an aesthetic appearance to absolutely all rooms of a house or apartment. It can be noted that there are, of course, exceptions: open pipes can fit perfectly into one industrial design style - “loft”. However, there are still not many of its adherents. The overwhelming majority are those owners who prefer a cozy warm atmosphere even in small spaces that are specific in purpose and small in area, such as a toilet.

Therefore, the question of how to hide the pipes in the toilet always remains relevant for them. Moreover, new decoration options are appearing, developed by manufacturers of various accessories for bathrooms, as well as invented by home craftsmen.

General information about pipe masking structures

What are the options for piping in the toilet?

Not only the owners of luxury houses or apartments, but also the owners of ordinary budget housing try to hide the pipes in the toilet. Much in the choice of masking plumbing depends on the location of the pipes, as well as on the area of ​​the bathroom.

The most difficult thing is to select and install a structure covering communications in the toilet of an apartment with a standard layout and footage of multi-storey buildings. This is due to the fact that pipes often run along two adjacent walls. In such cases, camouflage structures take on complex, difficult-to-execute forms, since literally every centimeter of free space in the room has to be saved.

If the toilet pipes are located along one wall, then closing them will be easiest. The rest of the space in the room will not be occupied by the masking structure and, therefore, will not lose its area.

If the pipes are located along adjacent walls, then in order to hide them, you will have to build two camouflage boxes, which will lead to a rather serious loss of area. Besides, different types communications can run vertically and horizontally, while also having branches to adjacent rooms. Unfortunately, the size of the toilet does not always allow for the construction of full-fledged camouflage structures for such difficult cases.

The manifold wiring option, if the main unit is located in the toilet, occupies a considerable part of the space of the room, if we consider the relatively small area. In addition, this design often hangs over the back of the toilet, which also makes it difficult to cover it with enclosing materials. When thinking about masking the collector assembly, it is also necessary to take into account providing access to meters, water meters, in which cartridges need to be periodically changed, and control valves. So the task is also not an easy one.

Main types of camouflage structures

Today, there are several types of designs that are most often used to disguise communication nodes in bathrooms or toilets. From these, you can choose the option that best suits the location of the pipes. To figure out which one to give preference to, it is necessary to consider not only how they will look in their finished form, but also the features of their installation process.

• Building a frame made of galvanized metal profiles or wooden beams around the communications, which is later sheathed with plasterboard sheets or plastic panels. Here it is necessary to clarify that metal profiles are better suited for installation, and a wooden frame is better suited for the installation of plastic panels, although this is not a rule at all - just a recommendation. Having chosen this camouflage option, it is necessary to provide the possibility of access to significant distribution nodes (taps, filters, water meters, etc.)

• A built-in plumbing cabinet is a box with doors, which is mounted into a frame constructed from a metal profile or wooden beam. Doors may have different heights and a width equal to the width of the room. Glass, wooden and plastic versions of such cabinets are produced.

• Horizontal blinds or roller shutters. This option for masking pipes is convenient to use in that communications can always be fully accessible in case of an emergency.

A built-in wardrobe is not only a disguise, but also a lot of space for storing household items.

• If the length of the room allows, then you can close the pipes in the toilet by building a functional cabinet in which there is space to store many different useful items. Access to the pipes will be provided by opening the upper and lower doors.

• If the walls of the toilet are made of gypsum-based slabs, which is not uncommon in multi-story buildings, channels can be drilled into them for embedding pipes. However, this option will do only for pipes of small diameter, but for a sewer riser you will still have to choose a different method of masking.

• If for some reason it is not possible to install one of the above structures at all, then you can use the idea of ​​​​externally decorating the pipe with various decorative elements or painting.

Types of plumbing hatches

When closing water supply and sewer lines, it is always necessary to provide access to them - for conducting an audit, for taking readings of water meters, for performing repair and restoration work in the event of an accident. Therefore, you should think in advance which door or hatch is best suited for a particular design.

In the modern market building materials Manufacturers present many similar options:

• Hatches ready for installation. They can be made of durable frosted artificial glass, plastic or metal. This type of product does not need cladding - the main thing is to choose it correct sizes and design suitable for the selected wall cladding. Therefore, it is advisable to purchase optimal model before the construction of the enclosing structure begins.

• Invisible hatches, consisting of a metal frame on which a plate (usually made of gypsum fiber composite) is fixed. This type of product is intended for subsequent cladding with the same material as the remaining surfaces of the walls of the toilet or bathroom. Thanks to this approach, the door becomes almost completely invisible.

Invisibility hatches can have different designs according to the type of opening - they are sliding, folding and hinged. The options are shown in the illustrations. In addition, there are invisible hatches that are simply held in place by magnets and, if necessary, are completely removable.

Which design to choose depends on the specific location of the hatch. That is, its discovery should not present difficulties, but in open form it must provide the necessary “degree of freedom” to perform certain operations on hidden communications.

• Hatches consisting of an aluminum frame and plasterboard sheathing. These doors are usually not intended for tiling - they remain lightweight, so they are either painted suitable color, or pasted over with wallpaper.

Installation of pipe masking structures

This section will look at several possible options closing pipes.

For installation work you need to prepare the tools and, of course, everything necessary materials. And if different materials may be required, then the list of tools for building the frame and its cladding, as a rule, does not undergo any special changes.

So, in order to mask communications in the toilet, you should prepare:

- Screwdriver and electric drill(if the walls are made of dense material that requires a special approach to making holes);

— Metal scissors for working with metal profiles and a hacksaw for wood when choosing for sheathing timber;

— Construction square, level, tape measure and pencil for marking;

— Construction level – bubble or laser;

— A set of ordinary plumbing tools - hammer, screwdrivers, pliers, etc.

Tools for subsequent finishing may also be required - it depends on what type decorative covering a camouflage structure will be used.

Masking box-shaped structure made of plasterboard

The most difficult to implement design option for a camouflage box is when the pipes are located along two walls, and in the corner between them there is a central communal sewer line. It is this kind of installation that will be discussed further.

The materials for work will require moisture-resistant plasterboard sheets, galvanized metal profiles, metal screws, dowels for attaching the frame to the wall, as well as ceramic tiles for subsequent cladding of the structure. In order not to buy unnecessary material, it is recommended to make all calculations in advance, taking dimensions from the installation site, and draw them up to scale approximate diagram location of boxes. At the same time, we must not forget about providing access - in the example under consideration to .

Calculations of the amount of materials are made individually for each specific case.

Illustration	Brief description of the operations performed
	Before you begin calculating and marking the walls for installation of the box frame, it is necessary to inspect all pipelines. If you plan to cover the entire collector with permanent panels, as in this case, then it is recommended to replace the old pipes with polypropylene pipes connected to each other by welding. All connections between pipes must be as reliable as possible. You shouldn't even mess with the box if it's old steel pipes have traces of corrosion and generally do not inspire confidence in their durability.
	If the pipes are in order, then the first step is to mark the walls, floor and ceiling. It is necessary to mark the contours of the finished location of the enclosing structure. The accuracy of the design will depend on how correctly the vertical and horizontal lines of its lines are aligned. Constructions can be made using conventional or laser level. The second option will give more accurate markings and significantly reduce the time for this stage.
	When creating a frame consisting of three sections, first the frame of the central part enclosing vertical pipe general sewerage. The metal profile is attached to the walls along the lines marked on them, then using a drill, holes are drilled in the profile and the wall into which a dowel-nail is driven (or a dowel-cork followed by screwing in self-tapping screws). Fastening to the wall is carried out in increments of 350÷400 mm. When the two guides are attached to the wall, they must be connected to each other on the ceiling and floor with short parts that will determine the shape of the future vertical box. The sections are attached to the floor and ceiling, as well as to already installed metal guides.
	Next, an external guide is installed, forming the corner of the box. It is recommended to assemble it from two profiles, which will ensure the rigidity of the structure. The outer profiles are first fastened to the corner part of the frame on the ceiling and then to the floor. After this, the external rack is connected to guides fixed to the walls and horizontal jumpers. The parts are fixed with metal self-tapping screws screwed in with a screwdriver.
	Now, using the same principle, boxes are mounted along the walls along the marking lines. First of all, the profile is attached to the rear wall of the room and to the floor. Then, two side vertical sections of the profile are mounted, they are installed inside the guide fixed to the floor. One of them is fixed to the wall, the other to a vertical frame erected around the sewer riser. Now the middle posts are installed, which will frame the sewer pipe pipe intended for connecting the toilet.
	All racks are mounted in the floor profile and attached to it with two self-tapping screws. Next, all racks are connected by horizontal jumpers.
	The next step is to build a frame along the second wall using the same principle. It is usually made taller, since its surface perfectly serves as a shelf. The illustration shows a metal frame ready for sheathing. If the area of ​​the room allows, then it is recommended to adjust the width of the frame surfaces to the size of the tiles. This will simplify the installation of the cladding and make it more neat.
	In the place where you plan to install a small door or a plumbing hatch, it is necessary to build a frame into the frame according to its size - the so-called mortgages. Instead of a metal structure, you can use plywood sheet, in which a hole is cut for the hatch. The plywood is secured to the metal elements from the inside of the structure using liquid nails adhesive. The plywood is additionally secured when fixed to the drywall frame.
	In order to muffle the noise of flows passing through the sewer main, the riser is often soundproofed using mineral wool. It fills all the space inside vertical frame, as well as around the pipe leading to the toilet.
	Next, dimensions are taken from each surface of the frame, according to which parts are cut out from plasterboard. They will be used to cover the metal frame. Fastening plasterboard panels It is made with metal screws, the caps of which must be slightly recessed into the surface of the drywall.
	The next step is to line the walls of the toilet and the box with ceramic tiles. To finish tile joints at external and internal corners, special decorative plastic corners are used.
	When installing drywall, a hole is left at the location where the hatch is installed. After tiling the box with tiles, a hatch is built into the hole.
	In this case, the hatch door has a hinged design. If necessary, the door can be completely dismantled.
	Another inspection door is installed in a box mounted on the back of the toilet.

The principle of performing work when using drywall and plastic panels is generally the same. However, there are also some nuances that you should also be aware of.

Wooden frame for plastic panels

The second most popular lining material for pipe camouflage structures is plastic panels. Moreover, they are used to cover the ducts and walls of the toilet, and they are also used to cover the frame of pipe fencing and in cases where tiles are laid on the walls or wallpaper is pasted.

When choosing plastic panels as cladding, it is recommended to use wooden beam cross section approximately 30x40 mm. As a rule, not only the frame, but also the walls are sheathed with plastic panels, so the frame is erected simultaneously with the sheathing on all surfaces.

The advantage of plastic panels over plasterboard is that they do not require additional cladding, so the overall cost of finishing will be much lower. In addition, installation of panels takes much less time.

• The first preparatory stage of work is carried out in the same way as when creating a plasterboard box, that is, an inspection is carried out and, if necessary, replacement of pipes.
• Next, it is recommended to treat with an antiseptic that will prevent the formation of mold or mildew in the closed space, formed between the wall and the plastic cladding. The solution is applied using a roller, brush, or spray gun.

• Then, after drying, the location of the guides and frame parts of the masking box is marked.

• A frame made of timber is erected in the same sequence as from a metal profile. It should be taken into account that the timber must be positioned horizontally at least 450÷500 mm - this step is required by the technology of cladding with plastic panels.

• The sheathing and box beams are attached to the walls using dowels (dowel-nails or dowel-plugs), for which holes are drilled through the beam in the wall.

• The installation process of the panels is quite simple. The main thing is to correctly, strictly vertically position the first element in the row plastic lining. It must be carefully calibrated to the building level. Then, when installing subsequent panels, they also need to be periodically checked for verticality - sometimes a rather significant error occurs.

• The panels are fastened to the sheathing using wood screws with wide heads, or staples using a stapler. To join panels in the corners of the room, special corner joints are used. plastic profiles for external and internal corners.

A plumbing hatch for installation in plastic cladding must be light in weight, which means that it must also be made of plastic.

Plumbing cabinet

As a rule, plumbing cabinets are located along the entire back wall of the room, behind the toilet. Doors can hide only communications, or behind one of them can be placed functional shelves for storing hygiene or cleaning products. The convenience of these designs is undeniable, since they always allow you to reach meters and filters, as well as monitor the serviceability of the entire wiring unit or collector.

You can make such a cabinet yourself or purchase it from finished form. For self-made you will need to make a frame required size, and the doors are the same as for a regular cabinet.

In order to make a frame, you can use a wooden beam or a metal frame welded from a corner or profile pipe. On metal version Frames are sometimes immediately fixed by welding with hinges for hanging the doors.

Cabinet doors can be made from various materials- wood, plastic panels, plywood, MDF or chipboard, metal or frosted glass.

Frames with doors are made according to the principle of shutters, so if you plan to make them from wood, you can order the structure from any experienced carpenter, providing him with all the necessary dimensions.

Plastic options Doors can be purchased ready-made or plastic panels can be mounted on a wooden frame.

In addition to swing door options, accordion doors are suitable for plumbing cabinets. They have more complex design, since when opening they move along guides installed on horizontal frame elements. By the way, shutters can also have an accordion design.

Instead of ordinary doors, the plumbing cabinet has Lately Roller shutters have become increasingly installed. This design is convenient in that it can be mounted to the entire height of the niche. This allows, if necessary, to have full access to all instruments and components of the collector. Probably, such roller shutters can be called the most convenient option to use. However, this device has one significant drawback for many - it is high cost.

If roller shutters are installed only on top part walls, then the lower one will need to be covered with a plasterboard structure. But roller shutters that cover a niche from ceiling to floor free you from unnecessary work and costs.

Roller shutters are made of plastic, metal and wood. The most durable of them are metal or wooden structures- they are easy to clean from dust and do not lose their attractiveness for a long time. If desired, you can order roller shutters with a printed pattern that matches the design style of the room or color scheme design.

No matter what the roller shutters are made of, they transform the room and perfectly preserve the free space of a cramped bathroom.

Some homeowners decide to replace roller blinds with horizontal blinds, since their cost is very low. But, you must admit, the service life is significantly lower than the capital structure of roller shutters

Exist different ways placing roller shutters in the niche opening. In addition, they are divided into two types according to the placement of the drum mechanism:

• Surface-mounted external installation of the system. In this case, the roller shutters are mounted on the wall. This option is optimal for installation in a toilet if the equipped niche has an opening smaller than the width of the wall.
• Installation of roller shutters built into the opening is possible if the niche is deep and the pipes are located close to its rear wall.
• The design, in which the box is located externally, can be installed either on the outside of the niche or completely “recessed” into it.
• If the box is located inside the structure, then the roller shutters can be installed on the wall around the niche or flush with the wall of the niche.

Most often, the installation of roller shutters is entrusted to specialists who will complete the work carefully and quickly.

Hiding pipes in walls

It is more convenient to hide pipes in the wall in a combined bathroom, since small room Cleaning a toilet is quite difficult. But even the room is more spacious. how standard toilet, sometimes it is difficult to embed all the pipes into the wall - some of them will still often remain open.

This method of freeing surfaces from unsightly communications has many disadvantages, which include the following:

• Labor-intensive work, which is always accompanied by increased noise, an abundance of dirt and dust.
• Inability to completely embed pipes that have large diameter. This means that you will have to use other methods of masking them, that is, do double work.
• It is recommended to carry out hidden pipe routing on straight sections of the pipeline that do not have detachable connections.

In addition, when choosing this method of camouflage, you will have to adhere to certain regulatory rules, which you should familiarize yourself with in advance:

• It is prohibited to cut fines in main, load-bearing walls.
• Only pipes that have permanent connections, that is, welded to each other, are allowed to be embedded into walls. In other cases, connecting nodes must be accessible.
• There should be no electrical communications in the area of ​​the wall where stripping is planned.
• The width of the groove must take into account the thermal expansion of the pipes, so some polypropylene products are expanding quite seriously in all directions.
• The pipes are installed in special plastic clips - they will prevent sound transmission to the walls.
• Instead of clips, some craftsmen use heat-insulating sleeves to dampen sounds, which are also excellent sound insulators.
• When arranging hidden pipe routing, it is recommended to draw up an exact diagram of their exact location, which will be necessary during emergency or major repairs.

In order to lay grooves in the walls, they are first marked, outlining the width and route of passage. Then, using a grinder and/or a hammer drill, a groove (cut) of the required depth is cut into the surface, and pipes are hidden in it, which will later be covered with finishing.

Decorating pipes

If for some reason there is no possibility or even simply no desire to build a box or install a plumbing cabinet, then there is always the option of covering the pipes with decorative materials. With this approach, each home owner uses his own imagination or borrows ideas from the Internet, which, after changing a few if necessary, can be passed off to guests as their own.

• This option is easy to implement and does not require any special creative skills. It is enough to roll up a straight pipe from rattan wicker (mat) and secure it to the wall around the riser. Rattan has a certain rigidity, so it holds its given shape perfectly. In the example shown in the illustration, this camouflage of the pipe is in perfect harmony with the cork wallpaper that covers the walls of the toilet. By the way, cork wallpaper may also be suitable for wrapping or pasting a pipe. This material has excellent sound-absorbing abilities, so it will reduce the noise level from water falling through the pipe.

• Another decoration option is to imitate tree bark on a pipe. You can simply mark it with a pattern or give it the texture of tree bark. It is not necessary to make a birch tree out of the pipeline - it can be any other tree. Used as thin branches and foliage artificial plants, the range of which in specialized stores is very large.

• You can simply wrap twine or rope around the pipe, which will also give the riser a palm trunk-like appearance. If you attach wide leaves to the top of the pipes, they will not only bring freshness to the interior, but will also completely determine the type of wood that was planned to be imitated.

You can come up with your own options, especially since such decoration does not require any special expenses.

However, this decoration method is only suitable for single pipes. It cannot be used to hide the entire plumbing, and especially a collector with numerous connected pipes and installed adjustment and control devices.

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The options presented above, as well as descriptions of the installation process of some of them, will hopefully help you decide on the appropriate way to hide pipes in the toilet, taking into account the specific area and the chosen design.

At the end of the article, watch the video, which shows the process of installing a one-sided plumbing box in a cramped toilet.

Video: Construction of a plasterboard box in the toilet

Everything around is beautiful, but when laying tiles on the walls, they didn’t cover the pipes in the toilet, and they spoil the view, and it’s inconvenient to clean up after them. This means you need to hide them in a box.

Material selection

In bathrooms, boxes are made from moisture-resistant plasterboard finished with ceramic tiles or wall PVC- panels. Tiled boxes have an excellent appearance and unsurpassed reliability. However, pipes, meters and taps tend to fail and sometimes require replacement or repair. Therefore, the possible dismantling of boxes is a factor that must be taken into account.

The boxes that cover the pipes in the toilet with plastic panels are easy to assemble and disassemble, the materials for their installation are inexpensive, and the structures have a decent appearance.

Tools and materials

The set of tools required for the job is standard: a hammer drill, a drill (screwdriver), metal scissors, a good knife, a tape measure, a building level and a hammer.

For assembling boxes in the toilet panel house 75 series, you will need the following materials:

• PVC wall panels (in the example 250x2700 mm - 6 pieces);
• plastic starting profile – (5 pcs.);
• guide profile 27x28 mm – (3 pcs.);
• finishing corner 25x25x2700 mm – (2 pcs.);
• sanitary hatches (200x300 mm and 150x150 mm);
• ventilation grille 150x150 mm;
• dowel-nails 5x40 mm – (50 pcs.);
• metal screws 16 mm – (50 pcs.);
• universal self-tapping screws “bugs” 16 mm – (50 pcs.);
• drill for a hammer drill (drill) (5x110 mm - 1 pc.);
• drill for glass and tiles (5 mm - 1 pc.);
• glue "liquid nails" on acrylic base– (1 tube).

When purchasing materials, you should consider several nuances:

1. PVC panels can be different thicknesses, therefore, the starting profile should be chosen carefully so that its width matches the thickness of the panel.
2. To attach the starting profile, it is convenient to use self-tapping screws without a drill at the end, with small heads.
3. To tighten the screws, use a drill attachment - a bit, the markings of which must match the markings of the screws. The two most common types are PH2 and PZ2.
4. Hatches and ventilation grates It is advisable to buy plastic ones, since they are easier to glue than metal ones, and they fit more tightly into place.
5. Acrylic glue has an undeniable advantage over others - its excess can be easily washed off with a wet rag before the glue dries.

Frame assembly

Before you pick up a hammer drill, you need to think about the design of the closing pipe in the toilet. It is not advisable to make the width of the boxes larger than the width of the panel in order to avoid narrow inserts. Ideally, all sizes should be minimal. And they should be displayed on the walls with a pencil in the form of vertical lines.

Assembly of the box frame begins with the installation of the starting profile.

In the simplest case, the mounting holes are drilled with a hammer drill directly through the profile and dowel nails are driven into them. However, when working with tiled walls, this option may not work. Firstly, there may be voids under the tile, and then it will burst. Secondly, ceramics can be too strong or brittle, and then they will break too.

Therefore, the tile must be drilled before drilling a hole deep into the wall. Often, tiles can be easily drilled with the same hammer drill bit. In this case, it is convenient to use the appropriate operating mode of the hammer drill. If the option with a drill does not work, then a drill for glass and tiles will help. Sometimes you can do without drilling and drilling by screwing self-tapping screws into the seam between the tiles. It happens that this method turns out to be quite reliable. However, you need to make sure of this by giving the profile secured in this way a good tug.

The starting profile should be fastened starting from its ends. We secured the top, carefully stretched the flexible profile and secured the bottom. Then the remaining holes are made every 30 - 40 cm. In this way, “waviness” of the profile can be avoided.

The appearance of the entire structure largely depends on the starting profile. The panel will be inserted into it, and its outer side will serve as the edging of the box. Therefore, various bends and creases are unacceptable.

Having secured the starting profile, it is necessary to create a base for the outer corner of the box - install the metal “PP” profile. To ensure that it does not dangle and stands strictly vertically, it needs to be reinforced with several horizontal jumpers cut from the same profile.

The plane of the metal profile should be 10 mm (the thickness of the PVC panel) deeper than the starting profile relative to the front surface of the box.

One point should be noted regarding the reliability of the design. PVC panel is a delicate material and does not tolerate physical impacts. It does not require a reinforced concrete frame frame. The box installation option described in the article is reliable and efficient, although it seems flimsy.

Installation of PVC panels

PVC panels are cut with a clerical or construction knife with a sharp blade. There is no need to put pressure on it; just swipe it with a knife several times using a straight edge.

It is better to point the factory edges of the panel towards external corners, and the cut ones - to the walls, inserting them into the starting profile. The mounting flange along the edge will get in the way, but it can be easily trimmed. Various holes are cut with a knife, piercing the panel right through.

There is no point in cutting off several pieces at once; you can make a mistake if they are all different. We cut it off, screwed it on, and measured the next one. It is not advisable to attach the panel to the starting profile, because this self-tapping screw cannot be hidden. However, sometimes there is no other choice. In such a situation, self-tapping screws with small heads are used, which are then covered acrylic glue. Screwing the panel to metal profile, you need to recess the head of the screw, but do not overdo it. In addition, you need to remember the width of the finishing corner that will cover the outer corner.

Even if you screw in self-tapping screws every 10 cm, rock hardness cannot be achieved. Therefore, gaps between screws of 40 cm are quite appropriate. When fixing the panel to the horizontal jumper, the self-tapping screw must be screwed through the mounting shelf. Metal screws are well suited for this purpose.

If in some place you can’t screw in a self-tapping screw without damaging it front side panels, no big deal. Finishing will add strength, bringing it to an acceptable level.

In the example described, both the sewer pipe and the water pipes were closed.

Photo of the installation of a box covering the counters in the toilet.

Finishing the box covering the sewer pipe in the toilet

Upon completion of installation of the boxes, the external corners remain open. You need to glue the finishing corner onto them, securing it with tape until the glue sets.

Unnecessary cracks are covered with acrylic glue or sealant. However, you need to remember - there is no plastic without cracks, and it is undesirable to get carried away with putty.

Plumbing hatches are glued to the surface of the panel, securing them with spacers. But if the hole for the hatch is made a couple of millimeters smaller, the hatch will still fit in and will hold perfectly without any glue.

Fully assembled, finished and sealed boxes have a wonderful appearance and acceptable reliability. In addition, these structures can be easily disassembled if necessary.