What to do if indoor begonia does not bloom. What to do if the flowering begonia species does not bloom? Violation of periods of rest

is the name of a genus of plants from the family of the same name. It can be herbaceous, semi- or shrubby. All representatives of the genus have asymmetrical leaves with a strongly indented leaf blade. It transforms during the flowering period. Flower buds open on flower stalks after pollination different colors and shades.

On a note. All the flowers are bright and have an irregular shape. They are same-sex and monoecious. Some begonias are tuberous, while others have a rhizome, but the fruit is always a capsule.

Begonias were first talked about in Europe at the end of the seventeenth century. Then scientists unexpectedly came across evergreen begonia in the New World, and a little later - royal begonia. In the jungle South America discovered a tuberous type of plant.

Features of the flowering period

The duration and characteristics of flowering at home depend on how the owner cares for the green pet. ABOUT proper cultivation You will learn about begonias at home in.

Experienced flower growers can enjoy begonia flowering for six months to a year. After long flowering it needs rest, after which the plant is awakened gradually and soon enjoys bright buds.

Many people plant the plant in mid-February so that the first buds form at the end of April and bloom in May. In this case, it pleases with an abundance of buds until October.

How does this happen at home?

Begonia blooms profusely and brightly. Its flowers are luxurious, similar to the buds of peonies, roses or carnations. They can be terry or simple, large or small. They gather in racemose axillary inflorescences that form at the tips of the shoots. The perianth is formed by 2-5, and sometimes 6-8 petals.

Flowering process:

  1. At the beginning of development, all female flowers are cut off and fed three times a month.
  2. Flowering begins immediately after the possibility of pollination appears in a developed flower, i.e. its parts become accessible and free to influence pollination factors.
  3. Soon yellow, red or orange flower(it can be monochromatic or multi-colored). The duration, as well as the flowering period itself, depends on how the grower cares for the begonia and whether pollination occurs.
  4. As the flowers fade, seed pods form.

For long-term flowering, feed the flower once a week with complex mineral fertilizers (Good Power, Bona Forte). Before adding them, feed it with a weak solution of potassium nitrate. More details about how to feed a plant for abundant flowering read in.

Important! Fertilizers with a high nitrogen content are often not applied: they are harmful. To prolong flowering, faded flowers are trimmed.

Not all begonias have fragrant flowers. Bauman's begonia smells. It has a unique smell, and besides, it has medicinal properties. It cleanses the bronchi and increases the vitality of the respiratory tract. About useful and harmful properties read about this plant, and we talked about whether it can be kept at home and why it is needed in.

Begonia maculata:

Begonia Volumia:

Begonia Baby Wing:

Begonia Bada Boom:

Begonia Ray:

The necessary conditions

In order for your beauty to bloom at home, you need to take care of it in a certain way. The plant requires the following conditions:

  • No drafts. You cannot place the pot so that it is blown from all sides. U tuberous begonias fragile shoots. They break when strong wind. To avoid this, protect the plant from its blows. Without fulfilling this condition, the flowers are not surprised.
  • Good ventilation. There is no need for air stagnation. For normal development Begonias provide a constant flow of fresh air.
  • Lighting. Flowering specimens need bright light. Direct sunlight is contraindicated for them, as they cause burns on the leaves. It is better to place the pot on a western or eastern window.
  • Temperature. In the summer months the temperature should be +21-23⁰С, and in winter – +15-18⁰С.
  • Air humidity. Begonia loves high humidity, but should not be sprayed. If water from a spray bottle gets on the leaves, they will appear. brown spots. To solve the moisture problem, place the plant on an inverted tray. This structure is placed on a larger pallet. Expanded clay and moss are sprinkled around its circumference, onto which water is sprayed from a spray bottle from time to time.
  • . It should be plentiful on hot days. Do not allow moisture to stagnate in the pot. During the winter months no watering is required as the tubers are placed in peat.
  • . During flowering, feed the plants three times a month.

Sometimes it happens that indoor begonia does not bloom, but only produces foliage - let’s look at why this happens at home.

  1. Sometimes gardeners place a pot of begonia in direct sunlight and forget about watering. After a while, they notice that she is wasting away. The main condition that is observed if you want to see flowering plant on the windowsill - abundant watering. Important nuances You will learn how to care for a flower in a pot.
  2. For prevention, water it with a weak solution of manganese or fungicides to prevent the development of fungal diseases.
  3. If you do not feed begonia with mineral fertilizers, the tuber will develop poorly and the flowers will fall off.
  4. The absence of flowers is caused by a substrate and pot that are incorrectly selected in composition and size. You will learn about choosing a pot and caring for a flower in a flowerpot.

Reference. Tuberous begonia blooms after a period of dormancy. To do this, it sheds leaves in the fall and acquires new ones in the spring.

Before looking for a way to make begonia bloom, they look for the reason for the lack of buds.


Identifying the cause helps to change the care and return everything to normal.

What to do and how to make the plant produce flowers?

Begonia is a plant that will never bloom if gardeners have not created all the conditions for it to have a dormant period. She doesn't like being woken up early.

On a note. You cannot move the pot from place to place when it has gained color.

Experienced flower growers reconsider the care of the plant in the absence of ovary. They pay attention to:

  1. lighting;
  2. temperature;
  3. watering (you will learn how and what to water begonia in);
  4. air humidity.

Sometimes all the parameters from the list above are met. In this case, the problem is more “deep” - when replanting, the soil is selected at random. They end up with non-nutritious soil. The soil must be loose and nutritious. in a mixture of sand, peat, humus, turf and leaf soil helps restore flowering.

Conclusion

beautiful plant, decorating parks and squares, apartments and gardens (you will learn about caring for garden begonias, and read how to care for a houseplant). It is especially transformed during flowering, but the ovary does not always appear. Flower growers do not follow the basic rules of care and do not provide peace in autumn and winter (read about caring for begonias in winter). By sounding the alarm in a timely manner and identifying the cause of the lack of ovary, everything can be corrected.

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IN last years Decorating the facades of houses and balconies with various types of flowers has become very popular. Previously, they were often used for these purposes climbing plants, however, today preference is given to begonias. Most people buy begonias already in bloom, but some prefer to grow them at home. This approach makes sense, because when buying a flower, you cannot be sure of its ability to bloom for longer than one season. The ability to flower does not always depend on the plant variety; a lot also depends on care. In our article we will look at the reasons why begonia does not bloom and what to do to solve this problem.

Experienced flower growers note that begonias can bloom fully only if there are at least five rings on the stems. If you bought a young flowering plant, then most likely the flowering was provoked by feeding the flower with growth stimulating drugs. Such plants do not bloom for a long time at home. Next time the flower will please you no earlier than it has completely ripened.

Lack of sunlight

Why do begonias on balconies always bloom so magnificently and wildly? One of the reasons - good lighting. But the flower is a light-loving flower, and a lack of light can affect not only flowering, but, above all, its growth. Place your indoor begonia in a well-lit area and you won’t have this problem. However, do not forget that direct sunlight can burn the leaves and damage the dermis. So shade the window with something or choose the southeast, southwest sides.

Low air humidity

Majority ornamental plants, which grow in our country, were brought from latitudes with a humid, warm climate. Therefore they need moist air. If the air is excessively dry, the plant will not only not bloom, but will also begin to dry out. In this case, you need to do the following: you can occasionally spray the flower, place decorative containers with water in the room near the plant, buy an air humidifier or steam generator. Well, don’t place pots with begonias near objects that emit heat.

Improper watering

Another reason why begonia does not bloom may be a violation of the watering regime. It is important to maintain a golden mean, since both underwatering and overwatering are dangerous for the flower. Overmoistening can cause fungal infections or root rotting; insufficient moisture leads to drying out of the soil and slow death of the root system.

Check the soil before each watering. And not only upper layer. If it happens that you flooded the plant, then it needs to be transplanted into a pot with fresh soil and the damaged roots removed. Be sure to use drains and containers with water drainage.

Temperature changes and drafts

It is difficult to find a flower that calmly tolerates drafts and temperature fluctuations, and even grows and blooms at the same time. Begonia does not tolerate cold air currents. It is impossible to force a heat-loving plant to bloom under conditions of sudden temperature changes. Therefore, you need to keep the plant in a comfortable place away from drafts and at a constant temperature. The optimal temperature for a flower is about 23 degrees in summer and not lower than 15 in winter.

Excess fertilizer

If there are not enough nutrients in the soil, the flower may refuse to bloom. Feed begonias with fertilizer for beautifully flowering indoor plants. But follow the instructions strictly, since excess feeding will not only provoke active growth of the rosette, but can also lead to burns of the roots. Buy a special substrate for begonias in stores. This will help you avoid not only a shortage, but also an excess.

Presence of pests

Violation of periods of rest

For flowering begonias, a period of rest is very important, during which the plant gains strength for the next flowering. Therefore, when the begonia has bloomed, the plant needs to be trimmed and placed in a cool, non-sunny place. The temperature should be about 16 degrees, lighting no more than seven hours a day. The recommended rest period is at least three months. To avoid confusion, make a schedule and mark when the begonia blooms.

The begonia family is the most diverse and numerous in the entire vast and densely populated kingdom of indoor plants. Begonia is a kind of all-rounder. It has both wonderful colors and incredible decorative leaves. It can enliven a large hall and decorate bookshelf or festive table. After all, this plant family brings together crumbs that fit in a glass and giant bushes that occupy entire walls. Begonia can grow all year round on the windowsill and bloom in the summer in the garden. People have been closely acquainted with this queen of flowers for more than 300 years. And until now, flower growers never tire of admiring the beautiful begonia. Caring for the plant is not difficult at all.

Difficulties in describing begonia

The first scientist to describe begonia was Michel Begon. It was his name that was immortalized by this incredible tropical flower. The new plant was found at the end of the 17th century in the Antilles. Then an ever-flowering relative of the Antillean begonia was discovered in the forests of Brazil, in India - a royal one, and the first tuberous species is of South American origin.

At first, begonia was bred only in winter gardens and greenhouses. But breeders were so captivated by the many-sided and pliable plant that they somehow quietly bred about 2 thousand hybrid varieties. Among them there are those that can live in the garden, and those that are registered on the windowsill. There are begonias that bloom all year round, and without flowers at all, completely falling asleep in winter, and evergreen, miniature and huge, ampelous and upright. As they say, there is a begonia for every taste, even the most demanding. But all, sometimes not very similar, begonias have several common characteristics:

  • the presence of unisexual flowers arranged in groups (usually 1 female and 2 male);
  • fleshy stems;
  • asymmetrical leaves.

Professionals have adopted a classification of begonias by root type:

  • tuberous, they bloom beautifully and spend the dormant period in the form of a tuber (begonia elatior);
  • with a thickened rhizome that is easily divided, these are species with variegated leaves (royal begonia);
  • bushy plants that do not reproduce by division of the root (begonia everblooming).

This method of classification is complex and not always convenient. In amateur floriculture, begonias are usually divided according to the type of plant use: decorative flowering pots, decorative leaves and decorative flowering indoors.

Decorative flowering potted begonias usually have a tuberous root; the stems can be straight and drooping in ampelous forms. The leaves are succulent, often single-colored, jagged or wavy along the edges. These begonias are bred to produce wonderful blooms.

The flowers are striking in color: different shades of white, yellow, pink, red, orange - there are two-color varieties. The shape is also varied: simple, semi-double, terry. The peculiarity of this group is that after flowering the plant is either thrown away or sent to rest: the tuber is dug up and stored.

Decorative leaf begonias will not please you with flowers. But beautiful, abundant foliage will decorate your home all year round. And the choice of leaves is huge. Size - from one and a half to 35 cm.

The shape is an asymmetrical heart, an elongated oval, something like a grape leaf or star. Texture - smooth and glossy, matte, with hairs or warty. Variegated colors include the entire spectrum of greens, reds, yellows and orange colors with transitions and halftones, spots and specks.

Begonia leaves contain phytoncides. They purify and heal the air and destroy harmful microorganisms. Begonia is especially effective against staphylococcus.

Decorative flowering begonias are evergreen plants that combine the beauty of leaves and bright, although not as magnificent as tuberous, flowering. This tall bushes(up to one and a half meters) or ampel forms. The beauty of plants is that they do not need rest, but grow and often bloom all year round.

Begonia is not the most capricious flower; caring for it is not difficult if you know its habits. And they are not so exotic for a tropical woman. The only difficulty is fiddling with the tubers.

Begonia helps improve immunity and performance, and also helps relieve fatigue. This flower is planted not only at home, but also in the office. Begonia activates and enhances mental activity.

And it must also be said that begonias are not long-lived plants. They will not live next to you for 10 years, like a ficus or palm tree, they are too delicate. But begonia reproduces easily and willingly. So you can always continue the life of your favorite flower in its offspring.

Some members of the begoniaceae family

Begonia is almost a thousand full-fledged species and two thousand hybrids. And the selection continues, every year new varieties of this tropical plant. With fuller flowers, brighter leaves and improved performance. But there are basic varieties that have already proven themselves well in cultivation. Most of us have been familiar with many of them, for example, royal begonia, since childhood. Let us tell you in more detail about the most famous varieties of this plant:

  • Royal begonia is a typical representative of the decorative foliage group, originally from India. The plant is distinguished by large (about 30 cm) brightly colored leaves. The color changes from rich green to red-brown. The leaf blade has a characteristic shape: an asymmetrical heart or snail. The edge has uneven serrations. Royal begonia hybrids vary in color: there are red-yellow, mint green, and chocolate brown leaves. The flowers are inconspicuous and are recommended to be removed.
  • Among the variegated begonias there are ampelous ones, for example, imperial. Its medium-sized (10 cm) leaves have a red underside and a velvety green-white upper side. This begonia does not bloom; the variety is bred for its abundant and beautiful foliage.
  • Begonia everblooming is a root-forming and bushy variety. It is cultivated as a garden and indoor plant. At home, this begonia is ready to bloom all year round. It has small (5 cm) shiny rounded leaves. Flowers up to 2.5 cm in diameter are single or double, red, pink, white.
  • Begonia coral belongs to the upright, evergreen and root varieties. Its shoots grow up to 2 meters and often need support. The leaves are elongated, white and silver spots are scattered across the green field. The plant blooms all year round; a panicle of 30–60 small coral-colored flowers blooms on the peduncle.
  • Tuberous begonia has simple or double flowers, at least 5 cm in size. The shape resembles a rose, carnation or peony. They can be white, pink, yellow, red or orange, or a combination of these colors. The leaves are brittle with a serrate edge of medium size (from 10 to 25 cm).
  • The ampelous variety of tuberous begonia is drooping, it has thin and long (up to half a meter) hanging stems and peduncles. They bloom in clusters of white, pink and orange rather large (5 cm) flowers. This variety needs rest; after a period of growth, the above-ground part dies off.
  • Another ampelous variety - begonia sisolifolia - belongs to evergreens. Its red-pink flowers are much smaller (1.5 cm), but bloom in winter, when tuberous begonia does not grow.
  • High begonia (elatior) is a tuberous hybrid that can only grow indoors. The stems of the plant are thin and fragile reddish color. The leaves are shiny and rounded. Elatior blooms in autumn and winter. The flowers are large, about 5 cm. The petals can be white, yellow, red or orange; in some varieties they combine two colors.
  • Begonia Borias is an elatior hybrid. Her bush blooms with double flowers. The color of the petals is two-tone. The soft pink or red cherry color is replaced by a white edging from the center of the inflorescence to the edges.

What types of begonia are there: elatior, coral, ampelous and others (photo)

Begonia high (elatior)

Video: Conditions and care of begonia

Conditions for different begonias (table)

Such diverse begonias require different conditions. But there are still a few general requirements for all forms of this plant. Begonias, without exception, love warmth. Therefore, they take root well in our heated apartments. Begonias will prefer medium-intensity, diffused lighting. Extremes (shade or bright sun) are not for these beauties. But they want higher humidity. Just don’t try to spray the begonia, it won’t like it.

Season Lighting Humidity Temperature
SpringThe best place to grow is on the east and west sides. All begonias prefer bright, indirect light. Shade from midday sun. Protect decorative leaf forms especially from direct sun.High. But you can only spray the air around the plant. Water should not get on leaves and flowers. Place the pot with begonia in damp peat, on a tray with wet pebbles. Place a humidifier nearby.Moderate, 18–20 degrees.
SummerModerate and slightly higher, +20–25°С. Protect from heat and temperature changes.
Autumn
WinterIt is useful to expose it to the sun for several hours in the morning or evening. On cloudy days, add artificial lighting.High. Humidify the air in all ways except spraying the flower. Do not place the plant near heating devices.Moderate, slightly cool. It should not fall below +15°C.

Planting rules: from choosing a pot to subsequent care

Variegated begonia varieties are replanted every year. In a cramped pot, bright foliage becomes pale. Evergreen begonias should be rehoused as needed once roots have grown into drainage holes. And tuberous plants are planted in a new substrate after a dormant period.

Begonias quickly grow lush greenery and bloom profusely. For this you need loose and rich soil, it should be neutral or slightly acidified. Good drainage is also important; allocate about a quarter of the pot’s volume to it. Approximate soil compositions:

  • ready soil for begonias;
  • a mixture of two parts of leaf soil and one each of peat and chernozem;
  • into two shares of dark peat, one each - turf and leaf soil, as well as coarse sand.

The soil substrate must be sterilized to destroy pests and infections. To do this, heat it in the oven or pour it with a weak solution of potassium permanganate (half a gram of powder per 1 liter).

It is better to choose a ceramic pot for variegated and evergreen varieties. It is heavier and will not tip over as the plant grows larger. In addition, ceramics is a breathable and porous material, which means that moisture will not stagnate at the roots. And begonias really like this. For hanging plants, choose hanging baskets or flower pots. Choose a pot for tuberous begonia from any material. Its size determines how large the plant will be. But you should not take a container larger than 20 cm in diameter. So, step by step instructions:

  1. Begonias, except for tuberous ones, are usually transplanted in the spring.
  2. Prepare the soil, drainage and pot; rinse it with boiling water.
  3. Place drainage (expanded clay, pebbles, polystyrene foam, broken brick) at the bottom, and a little soil substrate on top.
  4. Carefully remove the begonia from the old pot and examine the roots. If there are any rotten ones, remove them and sprinkle the cuts with coal.
  5. Place the plant in new pot straightening the roots.
  6. Add soil and tamp it down lightly.
  7. Water the plant softened water. Place it in a shaded place.

Don’t rush to replant a newly purchased flowering begonia. This will shorten the flowering time. Replanting is needed only when the roots of the flower emerge from the drainage holes. Pick a pot a couple of centimeters larger than before.

How to plant tuberous begonia?

  1. Scald the container and sterilize the soil and drainage.
  2. Place a drainage layer on the bottom.
  3. Fill the container about three-quarters full with soil and moisten it.
  4. Place the tuber with its indentation facing up on wet soil and cover it with dry soil so that the top of the tuber is halfway above the ground.
  5. Press the tuber slightly into the soil and compact it around.
  6. Place the pot in a cool, dark room.
  7. Water moderately, but do not allow it to become overwatered.
  8. After a few weeks shoots should appear.
  9. When sprouts appear, cover the tuber completely with soil.
  10. Transfer the pot to a warm, illuminated place.

Video: Transshipment (transplantation) of begonias - master class

How to care for a plant at home

There are general principles in caring for all varieties of begonias. For example, beautiful tropical women are afraid to get their feet wet, especially in a cool room. In other words, plants cannot tolerate excess moisture at the roots. This can make tender begonia seriously ill, and lush greenery is susceptible to rot.

Begonias do not respond well to diets. Blooming beauties spend a lot of energy and are not averse to eating. Adequate nutrition is essential evergreen begonias, which bloom almost without interruption.

Watering and fertilizing: how much, how and why

During growth and flowering, begonias want to drink a lot. In spring and summer, water them twice a week, when it is very dry and hot - daily. In autumn, reduce the volume and frequency of watering, and in winter, limit yourself to the minimum.

But even in summer, make sure that from watering to watering the earthen substrate dries out to about 1 cm deep. Pour water carefully, trying not to get on the stems. But in tuberous begonias, moisture should not get on the tuber. It is cup-shaped and water can accumulate in this recess. As a result, the rhizome easily rots. According to some gardeners, begonias will benefit from a slight moisture deficit. They believe that it is necessary to water the plant when the leaves are slightly withered.

Water for begonias should be lukewarm and soft. After watering, be sure to drain the excess from the tray.

Actively growing and flowering begonias love feeding

From a lack of nutrients, the bright begonia becomes poorer, weaker and wither. Fertilizer manufacturers have taken this feature into account; in stores you can find nutritional complexes designed specifically for begonias. But universal fertilizers for flowering or decorative leaf plants are also suitable. Choose those with more phosphorus. Actively growing begonia should be fed approximately once a week, sometimes twice. With the arrival of autumn, fertilizing should be reduced for most varieties, and completely stopped by winter. But if begonia blooms in winter, do not leave it without food.

How to make an unpretentious beauty bloom

Begonias (especially tuberous ones) have amazing flowers. They can look like roses or carnations, fuchsias or violets. How to ensure that flowering becomes lush and long?

Flower growers know one secret: when the buds have just appeared and have grown slightly, they must remove the female inflorescences and leave the male ones. They are easy to distinguish. The male ones are larger and double, while the female ones are non-double with a three-lobed seed capsule located on the peduncle behind the bud, close to it. As flower growers say, this operation significantly improves flowering.

But sometimes begonia completely refuses to bloom or collects buds and drops them. What is the reason? There may be several problems:

  • begonias have little light;
  • low air humidity;
  • too high or, conversely, low temperature;
  • temperature changes, drafts;
  • hard irrigation water;
  • nutritional deficiency;
  • the plant did not rest during the dormant period;
  • It's time to rejuvenate the begonia.

Analyze the living conditions of your pet, if you find errors, correct them.

Be sure to remove faded inflorescences. This way you will prolong flowering and make it more lush. Also remove old damaged leaves; thanks to this cleaning, the begonia will grow more greenery.

But it happens that flowering must be artificially stopped. If a grower wants to get high-quality tubers to next year, new buds that appear in September should be removed. Then the plant tuber will gain strength.

By the way, until quite recently it was believed that faded tuberous begonia should be thrown into the trash. Allegedly, she is no longer any good. Now flower growers have learned to successfully preserve tubers by giving them a period of rest, and then plant them again and enjoy flowering.

Rooted evergreen and decorative-leaved begonias retain variegated leaves during the dormant period, and sometimes continue to bloom. Only by observing the plant can you notice that it has slowed down its growth. At this time, it is necessary to limit watering and stop feeding. Although, if begonia blooms wildly, it is worth feeding it with fertilizer; it is applied no more than once a month. During the dormant period, the plant literally wants peace. It does not need to be disturbed, rearranged or turned. Surround your begonia with warmth and wait for spring.

But tuberous begonias go into deep hibernation after flowering. This does not necessarily happen in winter. Modern varieties They can bloom in the cold season and rest in spring or autumn. At this time, the tubers are stored in peat without watering. You can, of course, just throw away the faded plant, but try to revive the begonia. How to save it:

  1. When the green part of the plant begins to die off, limit watering, a little moisture is enough.
  2. Wait for the above-ground part to dry, cut it off. Nutrients have already become a tuber.
  3. Keep the tuber in the soil for about half a month.
  4. Remove the tuber from the soil and wrap it in sphagnum moss or peat. You can bury it in disinfected sand.
  5. Store the tuber at a temperature of +3 to +5ºC, the humidity should be slightly higher than in the room. Suitable places are a cellar or refrigerator (compartment for fresh vegetables).
  6. If the wintering went well, after 2-3 months the begonia will make it clear that it is ready to be reborn to a new life. Eye shoots will appear on the tuber.
  7. Plant the tuber in a nutrient substrate.

If the tuber is large and has several healthy eye buds, before planting you can start propagating and get new begonias.

Video: Peace and awakening of tuberous begonia

Care errors, diseases and pests: causes and solutions

Begonia is a rather delicate plant. It cannot be classified as a very patient and strong flower. The reaction to neglecting the rules of care will be sad: the begonia may get sick, lose leaves, lose buds, or be attacked by pests.

Let's consider typical problems and ways to eliminate them.

Table: Begonia health problems, treatment methods and prevention

Video: Treatment of sick begonia

How to propagate indoor begonia?

There are several ways to get new begonias. Tuberous plants reproduce by dividing the tuber. Decorative foliage and evergreen by cuttings of leaves and stems. Constantly flowering varieties can also be grown from seeds.

Begonia is different lush flowering, thanks to which it attracts the attention of many flower growers in our country. Begonia is grown quite simply at home, so many people want to have this delightful flower. This plant does not require care, but it needs to be given attention so that it blooms luxuriantly and looks beautiful. For some gardeners, it happens that indoor begonia does not bloom for some reason. Therefore, many people are concerned about the question: why doesn’t begonia bloom? In this article you can find a comprehensive answer and various options resolution of this problem.

Different types of flowers

Breeders have bred many different types of begonias, which can be either decorative or flowering. Flowering varieties are those that produce attractive flowers and decorative types can delight their owner only with beautiful leaves. It is useless to expect flowering from a deciduous variety; this begonia never blooms. Why doesn't begonia grown at home bloom? First, you need to decide whether it is really grown blooming species this plant.

Young age of a flower

Experienced flower growers have long noticed that different kinds This flower, be it tuberous begonia or coral begonia, blooms at home only when at least five rings have formed on the main stem. If you buy a young flower in a store that already has inflorescences, then most likely this plant was forced to bloom artificially due to the introduction of special fertilizers that stimulate the appearance of flowers. This means that such a bush will not bloom for long, and the next flowering can be seen no earlier than the bush reaches a suitable age.

Correct lighting

Why doesn't indoor begonia bloom? One of the reasons is not receiving enough sunlight. This plant is a light-loving flower, so if the pot is on the north side of the house and does not bloom, it means the bush does not have enough light. To see attractive flowers again, you need to move the pot with the bush to a sufficiently lit room, but in no case should you place the plant so that direct sunlight falls on the delicate leaves, which can get real burns from ultraviolet radiation. Best option- this is the location of begonia on the southwest or southeast side of the house.

Insufficiently humidified air

Why don't begonias grown at home bloom? This may be caused by dry air, which has a bad effect on this flower. Due to insufficient moisture, the edges of the leaves begin to dry out, and after some time no flowers will appear on the bush at all. To humidify the air and, accordingly, stimulate flowering, you need to place a jar of water on the windowsill near the bush, which will act as a natural humidifier. Experienced gardeners place begonias close to an open aquarium, from where the leaves of the plant receive enough moisture.

Improper watering

What to do when begonia doesn't bloom? You can adjust the watering mode. If the plant does not have enough water, or receives too much moisture, it will die. When flowers stop appearing on the bush, you need to look at the soil, maybe it has dried out or, conversely, the bush is standing in water. Begonia should be watered only after the top layer of soil is dry.

Suitable temperature

Begonias bloom only when properly observed temperature regime. During the summer optimal temperature for this flower it is 21-23 degrees Celsius, and in winter period the room should be about 15 degrees. If the temperature is higher or lower, or there are constant drafts in the room, flowering will be almost impossible. The pot with the plant should be in a room with a constant temperature; the flower does not tolerate sudden climate changes.

Rest period

Every plant, including begonia, needs a period of rest when the bush rests and gains strength for the next flowering. If there is no rest period, or the bush wakes up ahead of time, then it will not have the strength to bloom again. There must be a rest schedule, for example, if a bush blooms in winter, then it must rest for 3 months in the summer. The rest period should take place in a cool, dark room, the temperature in which is 15-17 degrees. At this time, you need to water the bush to a minimum; daylight hours should be approximately 7 hours, or less. The flower is brought out of dormancy gradually, daylight hours and soil moisture should be increased slowly, and the temperature should not be raised sharply, otherwise it will negatively affect the begonia.

Vitamins and fertilizers

In order for the bush to bloom magnificently and for a long time, it must receive a sufficient amount of fertilizers and vitamins. When flowers do not appear on the plant, you can replant the bush, but it is necessary to completely replace the soil with store-bought substrate for begonias. If it is not possible to transplant into new soil, then you need to fertilize the flower store-bought drug. You cannot apply too much fertilizer at a time, this can lead to the death of the root system, or rapid growth and expansion of foliage. It is necessary to fertilize in small portions approximately once every one to two weeks, but this does not apply to the dormant period.

Pests, insects

Some flower growers take a pot of begonia into the garden, gazebo or on open balcony. When it gets colder outside, the flower is brought back into the house, and at this time it is necessary to carefully and thoroughly inspect the bush, since in the summer it could be infected with any pests. Aphids, spider mites, other insects and pests can settle on begonias, taking away the vital forces that begonia must spend for flowering. If pests are found on the bush, then the flower must be immediately treated with suitable preparations, which can be purchased at any flower shop.

Often, inexperienced flower growers, when purchasing a bush of flowering begonia, are faced with the problem of the short-lived joy of enjoying bright flowering. Flower growers are wondering why the begonia is not blooming, because in the store the indoor plant looked very elegant, decorated with delicate flowers.

Why did begonia stop blooming?

The most common reasons for the lack of flowering of a bush at home are:

  • Errors in begonia agricultural technology;
  • Inappropriate microclimate;
  • Incorrect plant identification;
  • Flower pests;
  • Diseases of indoor crops.

Errors in begonia agricultural technology

Often, inexperienced gardeners show excessive enthusiasm when growing indoor plants. It should be taken into account that flowering itself serves as confirmation proper care and professionalism of the florist.

Beginning owners of green collections have insufficient knowledge about the agricultural technology of begonias. As a result, plants lose their decorative properties, do not enter the flowering phase, or drop their buds. Further non-compliance with the rules of cultivation and care at home can even lead to the death of the plant.

Successful agricultural technology for begonias consists of the following points:

  • Optimal watering regime;
  • Planting in an appropriate substrate;
  • Correct choice of lighting;
  • Maintaining ambient temperature;
  • Appropriate humidity level;
  • Application mineral fertilizers.

Deviation from the requirements for cultivating indoor plants entails disruption of the vegetative phases of development, lack of flowering, and death of the specimen. Natives of the tropics and subtropics have low resistance of the root system to pathogenic bacteria. Also some garden pests can have a detrimental effect on the development of begonias.

Recreating the microclimate for begonias

Create a tropical forest microclimate on home windowsill is a completely feasible task even for novice gardeners.

It is important to remember the basic requirements, the fulfillment of which contributes to obtaining a harmonious flowering specimen:

  • Lighting for begonias;
  • Air temperature and humidity;
  • Optimal watering regime.

The tropical climate is characterized by constant temperature and humidity. Begonias with pubescent leaves grow in the diffuse shade of tall trees, which prevents water from getting on the leaf blades and flowers. Tropical understory plants are exposed to the rays of the rising and setting sun. In the midday heat, begonia leaves are protected by the shade of trees.

Creating similar conditions at home will not be difficult if you place a flowerpot with a plant on windows facing east or west. Otherwise, the plants are shaded from the burning rays of the sun.
Begonias are able to grow on the windowsills of northern windows without entering the flowering phase.

Incorrect lighting of begonias most often leads to:

  • Sunburn of leaves:
  • Formation of petioles that are too long;
  • Lack of plant flowering.

The presence of one of the above symptoms indicates the need to change the lighting regime of the herbaceous bush. The problem is solved by shading the begonia on the south window and organizing artificial lighting in a room with a north orientation.

The optimal air temperature range for begonias is +22+24°C during the period of active growth and +19+22°C during the resting phase. Favorable humidity level is 60-70%. WITH special attention air humidification should be considered during the heating season.

Moisture that gets on the developing buds or flowers causes irreparable harm to flowering indoor plant. Sudden changes in air temperature are a stress factor for begonias, as are destructive drafts.

The flow of cool air leads to hypothermia of the root system and loss of moisture from the leaf plates.
Dry air is moistened by irrigation from a spray bottle near the flowerpot. A container of water placed in close proximity to the begonia also effectively increases humidity. It is recommended to place a damp cloth on the radiators in winter season. Household air humidifiers have also proven themselves well.

Improper watering of a houseplant can result in begonias not blooming at home. The method of watering begonias depends on their type. Tuberous and root begonias require different watering. Tropical crops react extremely negatively to excessive waterlogging of the substrate and overdrying of the soil in the flowerpot.
It is extremely important to remove excess water from the pan to avoid acidification of the soil.

Water required for irrigation preliminary preparation. Tap water it must be left to stand for three days in an open container to eliminate the chlorine contained in it. Most city water supplies supply hard water with high levels of salts. This water needs to be boiled for five minutes.
It is important to prevent water from getting on the petioles and leaves of the begonia during watering.

Violation of the watering regime most often entails:

    • Root rot;
    • Spots on leaf blades;
    • Dropping flowers and buds;
    • Lack of flowering;
    • Wilting of leaves.

The presence of one of the above symptoms indicates a violation of the watering regime. Understanding the source of the problem allows you to correctly determine what to do to correct agricultural mistakes.
Specialized retail outlets sell a soil mixture for begonias containing an optimal set of microelements. Young specimens are replanted annually after the flowering phase is completed. Fertilizing should be done depending on the vegetative phase.

Begonias are not fertilized during the dormant period. At the beginning of active growth, a complex of mineral fertilizers with a predominant nitrogen content is applied.
The fertilizer mixture is changed after growing begonias. sufficient quantity green mass. Flowering species need a potassium-phosphorus complex to awaken flower buds and maintain the flowering process. The application of fertilizers that do not correspond to the vegetative phase causes a lack of flowering and the formation of too lush greenery.

Begonia misidentification

Beginning gardeners, purchasing a compact flowering bush, expect continued flowering at home. However, flowers often wilt and new buds do not form. The first reason for this is the stress of acclimatization to new microclimate conditions.
You should pay attention to the size of your new indoor plant. The stems of adult begonias have at least five to six internodes.

Flowering of young seedlings with shorter stems indicates early flowering caused by special stimulants.

A flowering bush has a greater chance of being sold, which encourages specialists to carry out targeted processing of specimens.

Most tuberous begonias are ornamental flowering plants. This species needs proper wintering. Plant tubers are easily affected by putrefactive bacteria. The above-ground herbaceous bush gradually fades after flowering is completed.

The tubers are removed from the planting substrate and placed in a peat mixture. The container with tubers is placed in a dark, cool room. Experienced gardeners They assure that if everything is done correctly, then the tubers are perfectly preserved until spring and quickly grow green after planting in flowerpots.
Peat is an excellent disinfectant that protects tubers from damage by pathogenic bacteria. Planting material is treated with a weak solution of potassium manganese before planting in a permanent place.

It is necessary to distinguish between decorative-leaved and decorative-flowering types of begonias, so as not to expect flowering from a variety with decorative foliage.
Decorative foliage begonias are often root species. The attention of gardeners is attracted by the bright large foliage, which makes the plants attractive throughout the year.

Often the leaf plates are decorated with variegated patches of contrasting color. Large leaves crowned with long fleecy sepals that grow directly from the buds of a creeping rhizome.
The flowering of decorative leafy begonias has no aesthetic value. Experienced gardeners recommend removing flower stalks to free the plant from unnecessary stress.

Flower pests of begonias

Infestation of a houseplant by flower pests can cause a lack of flowering. The vegetation of the tropical bush is disrupted, since all types of pests feed on the sap or tissue of the begonia. A careful examination of the leaves and petioles allows us to determine that the specimen has been attacked by pests.

Most often begonias are affected by:

  • Spider mite.

Aphids live on the lower part of leaf blades and look like a light coating to the naked eye. Under magnifying glass You can see microscopic insects of light green or whitish color.

Thin cobwebs in the area of ​​the lower part of the leaves may indicate the presence spider mite. It is recommended to carefully remove the affected parts of the plant, and then carry out preventive treatment of the begonia.
The problem is solved through the use of insecticides. Chemicals are sold by specialized retail outlets. The above-ground part of the plant is treated according to the instructions on the package. You should remember personal safety precautions.

Sometimes the cause of plant death is soil contaminated with nematodes. Rehabilitation of the affected specimen is almost impossible. Nematodes belong to the class of protozoa. Experienced gardeners recommend getting rid of the soil along with the specimen and the flowerpot.

Diseases of indoor begonias

Often, the absence of flowering serves as an alarming signal that the plant is affected by fungus or rot. Tropical crops cannot tolerate violations of the watering regime or improper agricultural practices in the dormant phase.
Tuberous begonias are most often affected by rot when wintering too cold.

Before planting tubers in flowerpots, you should carefully inspect planting material and remove the affected parts to healthy tissue.

The sections are treated with disinfectants.
Sometimes rot strikes aboveground part plants. The reason for this is waterlogging of the substrate or waterlogging of the soil. It is important to control the humidity of the substrate and not water the specimen until the top layer of soil dries. Soil waterlogging occurs when the drainage layer is of poor quality.

The drainage mixture should occupy at least a quarter of the volume of the planting container. Expanded clay and broken brick cannot be used as drainage filler, as these materials accumulate moisture. You should pay attention to the number and size of drainage holes in the bottom of the flowerpot.