When constructing, finishing, and repairing low-rise buildings, you can confidently carry out work upstairs only on scaffolding, which is quite realistic to make with your own hands from wood.

It is not profitable for owners to buy metal structures, because they are expensive and are not used so often.

Homemade scaffolding can be made from materials available locally. personal plots. If there is such a thing in sufficient quantity If it doesn’t work out, you can buy boards and beams, and after construction is completed, use them for other needs.

Scaffolding materials

It is important that wooden blanks were dry and strong, so the presence of knots, cracks, and other defects on them is unacceptable. If possible, it is advisable to buy materials made from spruce; pine usually has more flaws. In principle, you can use any durable wood, the reliability of which must be checked before construction.

To do this, bricks, cinder blocks, and large stones of suitable shape are placed on two low supports.

You should put a board with a thickness of 30 mm, stand on top of it and jump several times. This must be done by a person with good reaction and coordination in order to land safely on the ground in case of failure. If the board passes the test, it can be used to assemble scaffolding.

To erect a building structure with your own hands, you will also need bars with a square cross-section and a side length of 100 mm, a tape measure, and a circular saw will be very helpful.

Screws and nails

Doubts about the choice of fasteners are quite understandable. Nails are easy to drive and provide strength to scaffolding because they have some flexibility to absorb the load. The inconvenience is that building structure almost impossible to disassemble without damaging the wood.

Self-tapping screws are convenient in this regard; they can be unscrewed without damage wooden surfaces, but they are characterized by great fragility. Black self-tapping screws made of hardened steel alloys can break when hit or simply under weight.

Note! Anodized self-tapping fasteners are somewhat stronger; they can be distinguished from ordinary ones by the greenish tint of the coating.

If the owner often works on the site with his own hands and the wood is needed in its most complete form, you can use anodized screws, and to be sure, hammer in only two or three nails at the junctions of the scaffolding, just in case, for insurance.

Design options

You can make wooden scaffolding with your own hands different types, the choice of a specific option depends on the specifics of the upcoming work.

Scaffold

If you plan to decorate the house lightweight materials, then scaffolding is quite sufficient, the manufacture of which requires less material and time. There are two types of attached structures, the diagram of each resembles the letter G.

The location of the construction scaffolding varies:

• in one case, the short horizontal part of the letter L rests on the wall, and its vertical part is slightly recessed into the ground under the working load;
• in the second type of scaffolding, the vertical part of the letter G rests against the wall. The entire weight is concentrated on the thrust elements, top part which is driven into a corner - the junction of two main bars.

The structure is often called Armenian scaffolding, and the vertical part in them can be shortened, then the scaffolding takes on the shape of a triangle, the base of which rests on a board. The entire load is concentrated on it.

Despite the fact that the scaffolding does not seem very reliable, in practice its strength and ease of use have been repeatedly proven. Triangular scaffolding should be located every meter; if possible, they are nailed to the wall; if there is none, then they are fixed with stops. To ensure safety, the place where the thrust bars are immersed in the ground is additionally wedged.

To make sure that the scaffolding does not move sideways along the wall, the stops are additionally sewn together with bars, which increases the rigidity of the structure. All thrust bars and boards must have a thickness of at least 50 mm; boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm are also placed on the flooring. The horizontal surface is nailed or secured with self-tapping screws, otherwise it is dangerous to move on them.

Construction trestles

Wooden scaffolding with such interesting name are known to everyone because they are often used both on construction sites and during major renovations of apartments. The convenience of construction trestles lies in the fact that they do not rest on the wall and allow covering with siding and many other facing materials.

Standing on top of a trestle, you can attach both the top and bottom of the panels, then move the structure and continue working on an adjacent section of the wall. Between the racks of such wooden scaffolding cross members are stuffed, they strengthen the structure and at the same time serve as a ladder. The racks on one side can be fixed strictly vertically, which will allow you to place portable scaffolding close to the wall.

Full scaffolding

The structure of traditional wooden scaffolding has not changed over the years. It is well known to everyone from movies Soviet years and posters in which charming girls, standing on scaffolding, smiled life-affirmingly at enthusiastically working young men.

To make such scaffolding with your own hands, you will need a lot of lumber; the advantage of the design is that it can withstand heavy loads and allows you to carry out work of any degree of complexity.

Before you start assembling scaffolding, you should stock up in advance on boards 50 mm thick and bars for crossbars up to 1 m long. At the first stage, racks are made from long bars or boards connected by crossbars. The scaffolding will be especially stable if the racks are placed at an angle rather than strictly vertically.

Depending on the future load on the flooring and the thickness of the boards on it, the racks are placed at a distance of 1.5 to 2.5 m from each other and reinforced with jibs. There is no such thing as too many crossbars and jibs; the more of them, the more stable the scaffolding will be.

Note! If the height of the structure exceeds 3 m, then additional jibs resting on the ground support the vertical beams of the racks.

IN last resort On the bars located along the perimeter of the racks on top, a flooring of boards is laid, which are carefully inspected the day before. The surface is laid in such a way that no cracks or gaps are formed at the joints, so that the result is a canvas similar to the floor in wooden huts. On such a flooring, workers can confidently focus on their immediate responsibilities without fear of failure. On high altitude It is safer to work if there are railings; they must be made of durable material without cracks or other defects.

Full-fledged construction sawhorses from lumber can be made with your own hands in a short time if you have the skills and a minimum set of tools, preferably with electrical system nutrition.

Features of metal scaffolding

If great desire make your own scaffolding from wood is not detected, you can purchase finished design made of metal. The costs will certainly be noticeable, but such scaffolding can be used to carry out construction work of any degree of complexity with heavy loads on the supports and flooring.

Metal scaffolding is convenient in that it can be disassembled with your own hands at the end of construction, stored in a utility room and then used during repair work in future.

The industry produces several types of metal structures:

• pin;
• clamp;
• frame;
• wedge

In pin scaffolding, loops in the form of pins are welded on vertical posts, and the crossbars end with hooks designed for connection. Assembly is simple and quick; it is convenient to work on such scaffolding with buildings of standard shapes; if you have to finish protrusions and figured bay windows, it is better to choose a different base.

Scaffolding with a height of no more than 40 m is made from metal pipes, which are secured with special clamps. You can do the assembly yourself; if necessary, such scaffolding can be easily moved to a new location. It is not recommended to work with very heavy loads on them, because the clamp fastenings have load restrictions.

Metal scaffolding is often produced in the form of modules from frames, which are welded from pipes and reinforced with jibs. The design can be done using additional modules lengthen and increase in height. One section usually has a height of 2 m, a length of one and a half to 3 m, and the depth of the horizontal part is usually 1 m.

Wedge scaffolding made of metal has more difficult places connections consisting of disks with holes welded to vertical posts, and pipes with special locks reminiscent of the mouth of predators. The lock is placed on the disk, and a wedge is inserted into the through matching hole. Scaffolding can be easily assembled and disassembled with your own hands, moved wherever needed, and it is convenient to perform any work on them.

You need to choose the type of scaffolding carefully, taking into account the specifics of the work ahead, the load and financial opportunities. You can purchase lumber and make the structure entirely with your own hands or buy ready-made hardware, which only remains to be collected.

When building, repairing and maintaining a private house or cottage, some work has to be done at height. By using ladder Not everything can be done, and it’s not very convenient. It is much more convenient to use scaffolding.

Homemade wooden scaffolding

Metal scaffolding is, of course, reliable and durable, but most often it is made of wood. Anyone can work with wood, and all you need is a saw, nails/screws, a hammer/screwdriver/screwdriver. The set of tools is simple, which any owner can find, and if there is something missing, it doesn’t require a lot of money to purchase. Metal is more difficult in this regard. It requires at least some handling skills, availability welding machine and at least some idea of ​​how. That is why do-it-yourself scaffolding is in most cases made from wood.

What to make from

Everyone understands that scaffolding or scaffolding is needed for a short period of time. But construction wood must be used to make them. good quality, with a minimum of knots. Some craftsmen advise making forests exclusively from spruce. Unlike pine, its knots are located singly and have almost no effect on the strength of the board.

But rarely anyone has spruce boards in stock, but pine is usually enough. You can also make scaffolding from pine boards, but each of them must be checked (in any case, those that go to the racks and flooring). To do this, stack two columns (three or four bricks one on top of the other, a couple of building blocks, two boulders, etc.). When checking three-meter boards, the distance between them is 2.2-2.5 m. Place the board on the posts, stand in the middle and jump on it a couple of times. If there are weak spots, the board will break or crack. Withstood - you can use it.

The thickness of the board must be discussed specifically, referring to the design of the scaffolding, the distances between the posts and the planned load. The only thing that can be said is that 40 mm or 50 mm thick boards are most often used for racks and flooring, and 25-30 mm for jibs. Such a board can be used in detailed construction work, if you manage to avoid damaging it when dismantling the scaffolding.

Nails or screws

The debate about whether nails or self-tapping screws are better always goes on, but in this case it is aggravated by the fact that the work is carried out at heights, and increased reliability is required from the structure. From this point of view better than nails. They are made of soft metal and when loaded, they bend but do not break. Self-tapping screws are made of hardened steel, but it is brittle and breaks when exposed to shock or variable loads. This is critical for scaffolding - there have been cases when they fell apart. But this we're talking about about “black” screws. If they are also anodized - yellowish-green - they are not so fragile and can easily withstand all the loads. If you are seriously concerned about the reliability of the scaffolding, it is better to use nails. They are not liked due to the fact that it is impossible to disassemble the joint quickly and without losses - most often the wood is damaged.

At self-production scaffolding, you can do this: initially assemble everything using anodized screws. If the design turns out to be convenient and correct, play it safe by driving two or three nails into each connection. In order not to damage the wood during disassembly, scraps of thin boards can be placed under the nails; for a long span, whole boards, but of small thickness, can be used. When disassembling, it can be split, and protruding nails can be easily removed.

Designs and their features

For different types works use scaffolding and scaffolding of different designs. For work with lightweight materials, too much load-bearing capacity is not needed. In such cases, attached scaffolds or envelope scaffolds are made.

For work on gables or when finishing low-rise buildings one-story house They use construction trestles, on the crossbars of which the flooring is laid.

For laying brick walls, any building blocks, for finishing the facade with brick or stone - all these works require full-fledged scaffolding.

As a rule, all these structures are not attached to the walls of the building, but are fixed with stops that support the racks. Next we will talk in more detail about each of these structures.

Attached scaffolding

They are called so because they are usually not attached to the wall, but simply leaned against it. They are held in place by a stop. The more this type of scaffolding is loaded, the stronger it stands. There are two designs, both of them are made in the form of the letter “L”, only turned in different directions.

The picture on the right shows a simple and reliable scaffolding design. Their only drawback is that they are not height adjustable. They are convenient if you need, for example, to hem roof overhangs, install or clean gutters, or all those jobs that have a slight variation in height. Some even adapt such scaffolding for building a house from logs (timber). It is convenient to roll or lift logs along the edges of the stops.

They are reliable - they can withstand an 11-meter log and three people Construction scaffolding - a simple design

In the picture on the left there is an envelope scaffolding or Armenian scaffolding. The design is simple and reliable, although it does not seem so. But it has already been tested on many thousands of houses under construction. Attractive because it requires a minimum building materials, you can assemble/disassemble/move them in a matter of minutes. The main thing is to make triangles, and setting them to a given height takes a little time: raise the triangle, support it with an inclined beam, which is fixed in the ground.

To make triangles, a board 40-50 mm thick and 100-150 mm wide is used. The vertical part can be long - it is convenient to use it to lift the scaffolding to a given height. Top bar It is made 80-100 cm long, flooring boards are laid on it. By the way, they are also 50 mm thick, and the wider the better, ideally also 150 mm.

When making corners, the joint must be positioned so that the horizontal board is on top. To increase the reliability of this unit, you can use metal linings in the form of a corner. But if the corner is fixed using three jibs nailed on both sides, this is not necessary.

Such triangles are installed approximately every meter. If the façade allows, they are nailed down; if not, they are made use of only by gravity. The main load in this design falls on the thrust board - the one that is placed at an angle and one end rests on the ground, the other on the top of the triangle. These stops are made from timber, boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm, pipes of solid diameter (at least 76 mm) or cross-section (for a profiled pipe at least 50*40 mm). When installing the stop, it is placed exactly in the corner, driven into the ground, and additionally secured by driving in wedges.

To eliminate the possibility of lateral shift, the installed stops are fixed with several jibs connecting them into a rigid structure. For these jibs you can use unedged board, if there is one, but of sufficient thickness and width.

If there is a need to grow the thrust boards (if they are needed longer than 6 meters), an additional emphasis is made for such a board. It rests approximately in the middle of the main one, relieving part of the load.

Now a little about the flooring of these attached scaffolds. It is made from a wide board 40-50 mm thick. In this case, it is advisable to fix them to the triangles, at least with self-tapping screws. This design does not provide for the presence of railings, and the slightest movement under your feet will cause increased discomfort. Therefore, fixation is extremely desirable.

Wooden scaffolding: drawings and photos

The options described above are good if the work does not require availability heavy materials. Also, it is not always possible to support scaffolding on a wall - any ventilated facade or multi-layer wall - and you will not be able to install such a structure. In this case they do full forests. Their design is also not complicated, but a decent amount of lumber is required.

For their construction, boards of considerable thickness are also used - 40-50 mm. First, the racks are assembled. These are two vertical beams or thick boards fastened with crossbars. The dimensions of the crossbars are 80-100 cm. They should be made based on the fact that the minimum more or less comfortable width of the flooring is 60 cm. But you will feel much more confident if you have at least 80 cm. To give the structure greater lateral stability the racks can be made tapering at the top.

The stands are placed at a distance of 1.5-2.5 meters. The span depends on the thickness of the boards that you will use for the flooring - it is necessary that they do not sag. The racks installed at the required distance are fastened together with slopes. They will not allow the structure to fold sideways. The more crossbars and jibs, the more reliable the scaffolding becomes.

To prevent scaffolding from falling, they are supported by boards/beams, one end of which is nailed to the posts (with nails), the other is buried in the ground

The cross beams prevent the scaffold from folding sideways, but there is still the possibility that the unsecured scaffold could fall forward. To prevent this from happening, the beams are supported with jibs. If the height of the scaffolding is 2.5-3 meters, this need not be done, but if you need to carry out work at the level of the second or third floor, such fixation is necessary.

If work will be carried out at high altitudes, it is advisable to install railings. They can be made from not very thick boards, but there should be no knots or cracks. Handrails will help those who are afraid of heights to feel more confident at the top.

Standard molding is enough to reach the floor level of the second floor - 6 meters. You can assemble small scaffolding from old, but strong boards. Sometimes poles or pipes are used for braces and stops - whatever is available on the farm

Construction trestles

There is also a way to make lightweight mobile scaffolding - build identical construction trestles, filling the crossbars with a certain pitch, which will be both a ladder and a support for the flooring boards.

This type of scaffolding is good, for example, when covering a house with siding. The sheathing goes from bottom to top, the height has to be changed all the time, there is no way to lean or fix to the wall. Therefore, this option is the best for such a case.

Construction trestles - options

Sometimes one rack on one side is made vertical, without tilting. This allows you to install them closer to the wall, the flooring is then located closer to the wall. In some cases this is convenient - for example, when caulking, painting, preventative treatment.

Types and components of metal scaffolding

When building a house from stone or building blocks, metal scaffolding is more suitable. They are able to withstand any load. They are less popular only for the reason that in many regions wood is still the most cheap look building materials. The second point, which is often decisive, is that after dismantling the wooden scaffolding, the boards can be put to work - used in further construction. And metal parts should gather dust in.

But metal scaffolding also has its advantages. When disassembled, they do not take up much space. Owners wooden houses you still have to use them periodically: the log house requires maintenance, so the scaffolding is needed every two or three years. In this case, it is more practical to use metal rather than wooden ones. They are easier to assemble, more durable and stronger.

All metal scaffolding has the same shape - vertical posts connected by crossbars and slopes. The only difference is the way the parts are attached to each other:

• Pin scaffolding. They are called so because the crossbars and posts are connected using pins. Pieces of pipe or perforated disks are welded on the racks, and bent pins are on the crossbars. This system is very easy to assemble and can withstand heavy loads. Pin scaffolding for buildings of simple shape is very easy to implement; going around bay windows and projections is much more difficult.

  

• Clamps. Pipes are used for racks and crossbars round section, which are fastened together using clamps special design. The system turns out to be very mobile and movable; you can easily get around any curved facades. The downside is the limited load capacity and height (according to GOST - no higher than 40 meters).

  

  Clamp scaffolding - quick installation/dismantling

• Frame. From round or rectangular pipe frames of the same size are welded. They are connected to each other by transverse pipes and jibs. They have a modular structure and can be easily expanded both in height and in length. They have a certain step in length - 1.5/2/2.5/3 meters, in height one section is usually 2 meters, standard depth - 1 m. Some frames have wheels - for easier movement around flat surface. Connection of flag-type elements - pins with a slot into which the flag is inserted are welded on the frame. Holes are made in the crossbars and slopes. The elements are put on a pin and secured with a flag. Sections are built up using connecting pipes of smaller diameter, welded to the frame posts on one side. With this method, it is important to have perfectly selected pipe sizes so that there is no backlash.

  

  Frame scaffolding - the principle of fastening crossbars and jibs

• Wedges. Although generally similar, the designs differ in the form of the connection. On the jays with a certain pitch (usually 2 meters), perforated discs are welded. Special cleft-mouth type locks are welded onto the jumpers at both ends. The locks are fixed to the disk using a specially shaped wedge. Such scaffolding connects and disconnects quickly, has high mobility, and can be used on facades complex shapes.

  

When making metal scaffolding yourself, pin scaffolding is most often used. They are the easiest to implement, however, they are only good on rectangular facades; to bypass more complex shapes, you have to weld additional tubes.

During construction or renovation, it is often necessary to perform work at heights. It will be inconvenient to do them using an extension ladder. For these purposes, you can assemble scaffolding with your own hands. Exist different variants designs that are selected based on the nature and complexity of the work. What is the best type of product to choose, how to assemble it or make it yourself, you can read in this article.

Scaffolding is widely used in repairs and construction. This is an indispensable attribute when performing internal and external finishing works at a certain height. The size and design of the scaffolding depends on the nature and complexity of the installation. The main purpose of this building element is to create comfortable and safe conditions when performing work. This increases work efficiency and saves time and effort.

Regardless of the type of structure, scaffolding must be reliable and durable, taking into account the location of people, materials and tools on it. The product should be placed on a prepared, solid and level area. The structure should be located at a distance of no more than 150 mm from the wall for external work and not exceed 100 mm for internal work.

Helpful advice! If the structure is used for a long time, it is necessary to provide ditches to drain rainwater from the site so that the soil does not wash out from under the racks of the device.

Scaffolding consists of the following elements:

• racks;
• diagonal and horizontal struts, giving the structure spatial strength;
• flooring lintels;
• stops designed to ensure the stability of the structure and prevent it from falling;
• flooring made of boards where a person will stand;
• a fencing element to protect the worker from falling down;
• stepladders or ladders to climb to the required level.

The width of the flooring must be at least 1.5 m. The height between tiers should be at least 1.8 m. Gaps no more than 10 mm wide are allowed between the boards and boards. If a continuous flooring is being created, the boards can be overlapped along the length, having first beveled the ends of the elements.

Helpful advice! When performing external repair and construction work, it is recommended to use facade mesh for scaffolding, which will prevent workers, materials and tools from falling. It will also provide protection for the finish from the sun, dust, gusts of wind and precipitation.

Depending on the composition of the functional elements and the option of their fastening, all scaffolding is divided into four types: wedge, clamp, frame and pin. The structures are attached, rack-mounted and collapsible. The exception is scaffolding, where frames are used instead of vertical posts. There are also hanging devices that can not only be installed on the ground, but also attached to the building. These include clamp, cup and wedge scaffolding.

What material are scaffolding made from: photos of products

Scaffolding - the photos clearly show the different options - can be wooden, galvanized, steel and aluminum. The last option is the lightest and most mobile; it is advisable to use it for interior or exterior work at low heights. They are considered the strongest and most durable steel structures, which are easily repaired, which cannot be said about aluminum scaffolding. Galvanized products are also durable. Their main advantage is resistance to corrosion, so this best option for outdoor work, where they can stand for a long time in adverse weather conditions.

The price of scaffolding made of steel and galvanized steel will be much higher than that of analogues made of other materials. In addition, such structures are the heaviest, which complicates their transportation. However, such forests can support not only people, but also necessary tools and materials. Therefore, steel and galvanized structures are most often used for large-scale construction and installation work.

Today, metal structures from the Dmitrov Scaffolding Plant are very popular. The products are characterized by high strength, reliability, durability and reasonable cost.

Except metal scaffolding often used wooden crafts, which are simple and economical to implement. You can easily make them yourself from scrap materials. However, this design is more cumbersome. Despite the fact that it is collapsible, like other analogues, the boards, due to the fact that they will be dirty and damaged by nails, can hardly be used for other events. This product is designed to perform work at a maximum level of the second floor.

Frame collapsible scaffolding: price of products

Frame-type scaffolding is the cheapest and easiest to use option. The structure includes ready-made elements from welded hollow pipes in the form of vertical frames, supports, horizontal and diagonal connections. Due to the fact that a lot of metal is not spent on the manufacture of elements, the design is characterized by light weight, quick installation and disassembly.

Assembly of frame scaffolding is carried out using flag fasteners or clamps. Such designs are used both for interior decoration and for exterior plastering and painting works buildings with simple facade. Due to their low weight, scaffolding can be easily changed into sections, as well as moved to another location.

You can buy one of the types of frame scaffolding: LRSP-30, LRSP-40, LRSP-60 and LRSP-100, where the numerical value indicates the maximum installation height. However, the designs differ not only in dimensions, but also in the diameter of the pipes and the wall thickness of the constituent elements. The first two types are produced with a diameter of 42 mm and a thickness of 1.5 mm, and the other two are 48 and 3 mm, respectively. The price of construction frame scaffolding starts from 125 rubles/m².

The structures can be equipped with wheels, which makes it easy to move the unit on flat ground. The standard dimensions of the product are the following: section height - 2 m, length - 2-3 m, passage width - 1 m. To perform one-time work, you can rent frame scaffolding, the price will be 55 rubles / m².

Installation of scaffolding: sequence of actions

Shoes and wooden spacers. If necessary, screw supports can be placed. Adjacent frames of the first tier are placed in the shoes, followed by connecting them diagonally and horizontal connections. The next two frames with ties are placed in increments of three meters. The process is carried out until the lightweight frame scaffolding of the required length is created. Fencing frames are installed along the edges of the structure, followed by the installation of stairs.

Important! The supporting surfaces must be located strictly in a horizontal plane.

Next, they begin to install the second tier, which is also connected by ties, but the diagonal elements are staggered relative to the previous row. Here you can use crossbars on which wooden flooring is laid. To move people between tiers, inclined stairs are installed in areas designated for hatches.

Frame construction scaffolding are attached to the wall in a checkerboard pattern in 4 m increments using hooks with bushings or plugs with clamps or brackets attached to the scaffold frame posts. The above actions are carried out until the required installation height is reached.
On the safety and working tier there are longitudinal and end connections of the fences, which are mounted in a place where there are no diagonal ties. Scaffolding is installed vertically. Dismantling of dismountable scaffolding is carried out in the reverse order, starting from the top row.

Mobile scaffolding on wheels

The most profitable option To perform quick repairs, tour scaffolding is used, which is considered a type of frame installation. The design is characterized by strength and ease of assembly. The mobility of the installation is ensured by wheels located at the base of the vertical supports. A significant advantage of the tower tower is the presence of a jack in the design of the device. The height of the product does not exceed 20 m. The load capacity of the installation is 300 kg/m².

The structure is made primarily of aluminum, which makes it light and easy to move. Less commonly, you can find steel tours that have high strength and reliability, but are characterized by reduced mobility due to their heavy weight.

Tower towers are actively used in the installation of air conditioners, lighting, video surveillance, banners, billboards, cornices, finishing walls and balconies, repairing gutters and roofs. There are two types of design: non-removable telescopic and collapsible. In the first option, a special mechanism is provided, thanks to which the tour extends to the required height. This type is used indoors.

For external finishing or repair work, collapsible towers with more complex design with supports and diagonal braces. Each subsequent section is built into the supports of the lower module on bushings, resulting in a dimensional structure. With an installation height of 1.3 m, the structure is equipped with railings and sides. Today you can rent a tower or buy scaffolding, the price of which is in the range of 150-200 rubles/m².

Mobile scaffolding on wheels should be used in cases where the installation location will need to be changed frequently. Special brake screws are used to secure the structure in place.

Clamp scaffolding: design features

This type of scaffolding is the most labor-intensive to assemble, since each connection of vertical supports with horizontal, diagonal and transverse connections is carried out using special clamps, which are tightened with a wrench. Fasteners can be blind or rotary. Depending on this, the connection of the racks can be made at right angles or at any angle, respectively. Due to the fact that installation of the structure requires a large number of fasteners, clamp scaffolding are the most expensive.

Helpful advice! When assembling the structure, you can combine clamps, which will allow you to create an installation of the desired configuration.

Thanks to the presence of diagonal connections, the structure is durable, reliable and stable. However, this is the most difficult scaffolding option to install and dismantle.

The main advantages of the design are the possibility of manufacturing an installation of any shape and the feasibility of combining it with another version of the auxiliary rack-mount metal structure. Such a structure is mounted along the perimeter of a building of any configuration, even if there are protruding elements. The device can be used for inclined structures.

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Manufacturers produce various options clamp-type scaffolding, characterized by a maximum installation height that can range from 30 to 80 m. The standard scaffolding width is 1-1.5 m, tier pitch is 2-2.5 m. These parameters vary depending on the configuration of the structure. Maximum load per structure is 150-250 kg/m. The unit can be purchased or rented. The price of scaffolding starts from 250 rubles/m2. Rent will cost 80 rubles. per m2.

Helpful advice! Clamp scaffolding is recommended to be used to create stages and stands.

Wedge construction mobile scaffolding

This design is created from functional elements using a special wedge fixation. Pipes with flanges are used as vertical components, and pipes with holders are used as horizontal components. To make the unit mobile, it is recommended to equip it with special wheels. Such scaffolding is characterized by strength and reliability. When installing the installation, you can change the direction angle of the connecting elements, thereby creating multi-level structures various configurations.

Manufacturers produce wedge scaffolding with dimensions: section height – 2 m, length – 2-3 m, passage width – 1-3 m. The structure can have a height of 60 and 100 m. The installation can withstand a large load of up to 500 kg/m², so the device used during the construction of complex objects when heavy components and materials are lifted.

Helpful advice! To ensure the safety of people who may be near the construction site, it is recommended to purchase scaffolding mesh designed to fence the facade of the building.

Scaffolding is easy to use, but requires labor-intensive installation. The design is characterized by versatility, due to which it can be used not only in the construction of buildings, but also in the construction of stages, stands, canopies, and overpasses. This is an indispensable installation in shipbuilding and aircraft construction. The cost of the structure starts from 425 rubles/m². You can rent scaffolding for 85 rubles/m².

Pin Type Collapsible Metal Scaffolding

Such designs are very popular in construction sites thanks to easy and quick installation and disassembly of the unit. As a connection point in scaffolding, pins are used, which are located on load-bearing supports. They are connected to the holes in the pipes of the connecting elements. The installations are characterized by strength, reliability, rigidity, stability, wear resistance and durability. They can be used repeatedly, easily transported from place to place in disassembled form.

Thanks to high bearing capacity the structure can withstand a significant amount of heavy building materials. Such scaffolding is used in areas with complex terrain and during construction and installation work on structures with a curved configuration. The disadvantages of the design include heavy weight installations, which involves a significant amount of metal.

Today we sell scaffolding pin type such varieties:

• LSh-50 – up to 50 m high, sectional height 2 m, length 1.5-3 m, passage width 1-2 m;
• LSPSH-2000-4 – height 40 m, passage width 1.6 m, section height 2 m, length 2.5 m;
• E-507 – height 60 m, passage width 1.6 m, length and height of sections 2 m.

You can buy the structure from 519 rubles/m². Also, some companies offer to rent the installation. The price of m² of scaffolding is 90 rubles/m².

DIY wooden scaffolding

If you want to save money and have wooden materials at hand, then you can create the structure yourself. Before you make scaffolding with your own hands, you should study the requirements for the product so that it is durable and reliable.

Distance between vertical posts should not be more than 2.5 m. The installation height reaches 6 m. The width of the flooring can be any, but not less than 1 m. It is important that not only a person can fit on it, but also the tools and materials necessary for the work.

For supports and racks should be used wooden beams section 100x100 mm and boards - 50x100 mm. The thickness of the products for spacers should not be less than 30 mm, and the thickness of the flooring - 50 mm. For stiffeners you will need products with a thickness of 25 mm. Thin boards can be used as fencing elements. For creating reliable design Only construction nails should be used. Self-tapping screws are not capable of creating a reliable connection.

Helpful advice! When installing wooden scaffolding, care should be taken to ensure easy disassembly. For this purpose, it is not recommended to hammer the nails in completely, and you can also use a wooden spacer between the structure element and the head.

After the installation package has been prepared, we begin to assemble it. Work begins with large functional elements. Two beams are laid on a horizontal surface at a distance along the length of the structure so that the tops of the elements converge slightly, which will add stability to the installation. For example, if the distance between the lower ends is 3 m, then between the upper ends there should be no more than 2.6 m. Sidewalls are attached to the inside of the supports, which are the basis for the decking. A similar operation is performed with two other bars.

Helpful advice! The side cross members must be of different lengths to result in a pyramidal structure.

The sides are positioned vertically and tilt towards each other to provide stability. The position is fixed with long transverse nails. To prevent the scaffolding from falling onto the wall of the structure, it is recommended to make the crossbars with an allowance of 20-30 cm.

The racks are installed at a distance of 2-2.5 m, which depends on the thickness of the boards used for flooring. The elements are attached to each other using bevels, thanks to which the structure will not fold to the side. The more jibs and cross members, the stronger and more reliable the scaffolding is made with your own hands. If the height of the structure is more than 3 m, it must be additionally secured to prevent it from falling forward. To do this, they install jibs, which, on the one hand, are nailed to the beams, and on the other, buried in the ground.

The final stage is the installation of the flooring to the cross beams. It is also possible to additionally install fences above each platform to increase safety. If cross beams are added to the side elements, a staircase is formed. To give the structure stability, the ends of the supports should be sharpened and buried in the ground.

Scaffolding and construction trestles

Attached scaffolding is used for simple finishing work where lightweight materials are used. Wooden structures lean against the surface of the building wall and are held in place by a stop. Despite the fact that the installation looks unreliable, it is convenient and safe to work on it. There are two versions of the attached scaffolding: traditional and Armenian. The first installation is simple and reliable, but it is not height adjustable. It can be used for filing roof overhangs, installing gutters and other work that is characterized by a slight variation in height.

Armenian scaffolding is made from a minimum amount of materials and is easily and quickly assembled, moved and disassembled. The main thing is to make triangles, raise them to a given height, place them in 3 m increments and support them with inclined beams that are fixed in the ground.

For exterior finishing one-story buildings and for work on gables, construction trestles are used, where the flooring is laid on wooden crossbars. Installations are also used in cases where nothing can be supported on the walls. The design is non-bulky and lightweight, it can be moved to the desired location.

The construction goat is a four-legged wooden structure, shaped like the letter “A”, the height of which reaches the height of the master. The number of spacers can be arbitrary. Conventional canopies are used to connect the upper ends of the supports. The legs are fixed with stops. On one side the stand can be made vertically, without tilting. This will allow you to install the structure closer to the wall, which is convenient when painting, caulking or preventative treatment.

Thanks to the many options for scaffolding, it is possible to select the structure required to complete specific works. When choosing a product, it is important to take into account not only its cost, but also the terrain, the surface to be treated, and the timing of the work. Based on this information, it is easy to choose your type of design for each case.

When constructing walls or exterior finishing scaffolding is used in buildings. This design makes it possible to safely work at heights and keep the necessary tools and supplies of materials at hand.

Types of scaffolding

Despite the fact that scaffolding comes in many types, their structures contain identical parts that serve the same purpose:

• Vertical supports.
• Ties connecting supports horizontally and vertically.
• Cross members.
• Flooring.
• Support slopes.
• Handrails.
• Stairs.

Material for production

In the manufacture of scaffolding they use:

• lumber;
• metal.

A wooden structure is much cheaper than a metal one, but it can only be used for two or three assemblies. In the future, it is only suitable for “throwing away”.

Scaffolding made from metal pipes, although much more expensive than wood, is not limited in use. They are easy to dismantle and move as needed. In addition, scaffolding made from pipes can be increased in height, complementing the tiers.

Making scaffolding from wood

To make scaffolding from wood and pallets with your own hands, you must first develop drawings and determine dimensions.

There is no need to invent anything in this regard. Many years of practice have independently determined and established dimensions that are convenient to use:

• maximum height of the structure - 6 meters;
• the distance between supports can vary from 2.0 to 2.5 meters;
• The width of the working platform is 1 meter.

Manufacturing of scaffolding

Step-by-step production of scaffolding with your own hands:

• On a flat surface of the ground, two supports are laid out, preferably from timber, but it is also possible from a fiftieth board, parallel to each other, equal in height.
• The supports are fastened horizontally with crossbars, on which the work platform will subsequently be laid.
• The resulting two fastened structures are installed vertically opposite each other and connected diagonally and horizontally by crossbars.
• Boards are laid and secured onto the horizontal crossbars, which will subsequently serve as flooring.
• To fix the scaffolding, side supports are installed.
• A cranial block is nailed onto the supports, which will act as a railing.
• On last stage a ladder for climbing is installed and fixed.

If you need to install two or more sections, then they are connected to each other by a wide board, which is placed on adjacent supports. To prevent nails from splitting, you must first drill holes for them.

Specifics of manufacturing scaffolding from pipes

When starting to make collapsible scaffolding from pipes with your own hands, you need to know that in terms of their design data they are identical to wooden scaffolding. The difference between them is represented by adapters, which are used to increase the height of the structure.

Detailing for assembling one metal section

To assemble one section you will need:

• Profiled pipe for supports 40x40 mm - 4 pcs. 1.5 m each.
• Profiled pipe for crossbars - 4 pcs. 1 m each.
• Thin-walled pipe with a diameter of 20 mm - 4 pcs. 2 meters for screed diagonally.
• Profiled pipe 35x35 mm - 8 pcs. 10 cm each, which will play the role of adapters.
• Profiled pipe 35x35 for railings - 1 piece 2 - m.
• Steel plate for thrust bearings 10x10 cm, thickness 3 mm - 4 pieces.
• To connect the crossbars diagonally to the frame, you will need 10 bolts with nuts and washers.

Assembly of metal scaffolding of one level

To assemble the structure, you must follow the instructions: how to make scaffolding correctly.

Assembly of scaffolding from pipes includes the following operations:

• The scaffolding supports are secured to the OSB sheet using clamps.
• Cross members are welded horizontally to the supports using welding.
• Adapters measuring 5 cm are welded to the upper end of the racks.
• Having lifted the racks with crossbars from the shield, they must be rotated 90 degrees, laid back on the shield and secured to the shield with clamps.
• The edges and middle of the pipe, intended for diagonal stretching, are flattened and a slot for bolts is drilled.
• Two diagonal crossbars are tightened in the center with a bolt, applied to the racks and the location for drilling is determined.
• The crossbars are secured to the posts with bolts and tightened with nuts.
• Holes are drilled on the supports and handrails and bolted together.
• Thrust bearings are welded to the base of the pipes.
• The finished structure is installed vertically.
• Boards are laid on the side crossbars, which serve as the base of the working platform.

Photos of how to make scaffolding can be seen below.

It is important to remember that diagonal crossbars must be secured on one side of the structure, and horizontal ones on the opposite side. Then during assembly they will not interfere with each other.

Photos of DIY scaffolding

Note!

Note!

A person's height is less than the height of the house, so it is impossible to lay walls or finish the facade without scaffolding or scaffolding. These designs allow you to safely work at heights and make it possible to always have a supply of consumables on hand.

Builders have their own terminology used to refer to such devices.

They call forests structures that are quite long and tall. Scaffolding “goats” are usually called low portable tables which can accommodate no more than two people.

If you have to lay walls, insulate, repair or decorate the facade, then think in advance about what scaffolding or scaffolding will be required for the work. For our part, we will tell you how to make scaffolding with your own hands strong and stable, saving a lot of money on their rental.

Scaffolding design options

Despite the wide variety of types of scaffolding, their designs contain elements that are identical in purpose:

• Vertical posts (accept the work load and transfer it to the ground).
• Diagonal and horizontal ties (provide spatial rigidity of the frame).
• Jumpers (short side elements of the scaffolding on which the flooring is laid).
• Flooring (boards knocked together that serve as a working platform for builders).
• Persistent slopes (protect scaffolding from tipping over).
• Railings (protect workers from falling).
• Stairs (used for ascent and descent from work platforms).

The material for assembling scaffolding and scaffolding is traditionally wood or metal. Wooden structure cheaper than steel, but withstands no more than two or three reassemblies. After that, it is only suitable for firewood.

Metal scaffolding is several times more expensive than wood, but has no restrictions on the number of cycles of use. They are easily dismantled and moved to a new location. Their design allows you to build additional tiers as work progresses, increasing the working height.

If your plans include the construction of several residential buildings and outbuildings, then it is better to do homemade scaffolding from profile metal. If high-altitude work will be carried out only once and at one site, then it is more profitable to assemble a structure from beams and boards.

Features of making wooden and metal scaffolding with your own hands

Before you start preparing parts for assembly, you should make a schematic drawing and put on it the main dimensions of the structure.

There is no need to fantasize here, since construction practice has already determined the optimal dimensions of scaffolding:

• maximum height of the structure – 6 meters;
• distance between racks from 2.0 to 2.5 meters;
• The width of the working floor is 1 meter.

Ergonomics has established that maximum productivity is achieved when the builder’s hands during work are 30-40 cm below chest level. Therefore, jumpers for installing the first flooring must be placed at a height of 40-50 cm from the ground level. This will save you from having to put together low scaffolding.

It is better to provide fastenings for the second level flooring at a height of 180-200 cm. The third flooring is placed at a level of 360-400 cm.

If you decide to make a structure from boards, then buy the following set of lumber and fasteners in advance:

• For cutting racks and thrust braces - timber with a section of 10x10 cm or boards with a width of at least 10 cm and a thickness of 5 cm.
• Spacers, ties and railings can be made from edged boards"thirty".
• For the flooring and the lintels on which it will lie, boards 4-5 cm thick will be required.

When choosing between nails and self-tapping screws, you should remember that nails are more difficult to remove when dismantling scaffolding. Self-tapping screws, on the contrary, are quickly unscrewed from wood with a screwdriver. However, they are worse at breaking than nails, since they are made of brittle hardened steel. Therefore, for the manufacture of small scaffolding, we can recommend the use of nails, and for long and tall structures - self-tapping screws.

Scaffolding from boards is assembled in the following order:

• on a flat area, parallel to each other, lay out 4 racks of timber or boards, cut “to size” according to the height of the scaffolding;
• the racks are connected by horizontal jumpers on which the working flooring will be laid;
• the two resulting “ladder” frames are placed vertically one against the other and connected with diagonal and horizontal ties;
• a flooring made of boards is placed on the horizontal lintels and secured;
• the scaffolding is fixed on two side bevels;
• Railings are nailed to the racks, the ladder is placed and fixed for climbing.

If there is a need to install two or more sections of wooden scaffolding, then they can be tied together with wide sections of boards, stuffed onto adjacent racks. To prevent nails from splitting short boards, drill holes in them before nailing.

Scaffolding from profile pipe their design is similar to that of wood. The difference between them is the use of adapters. They are used to increase the number of storeys of a metal structure.

A set of blanks for assembling one section includes the following elements:

• Profile pipe 30x30 or 40x40 mm for racks and lintels (4 pieces of 1.5 m and 4 pieces of 1 meter).
• Thin-walled round pipe with a diameter of 20 mm (4 pieces of 2 meters each for diagonal ties).
• Profile pipe 25x25 mm or 35x35 mm (8 pieces of 10 cm each for the manufacture of adapters and bearings). To make railings, you can take the same pipe - 1 piece 2 meters long.
• Steel plates 10x10 cm, 2-3 mm thick (4 pieces) for thrust bearings;
• 10 bolts with nuts and washers for connecting the diagonal ties together and securing them to the frame posts.

The assembly of a single-level section of metal scaffolding consists of several operations:

• to the assembly panel ( OSB sheet) clamps rigidly fix the scaffolding posts ( high accuracy when working with metal – a very important factor);
• horizontal jumpers are welded to the racks;
• adapters from pipe scraps are inserted into the upper ends of the racks 5 cm and fixed by welding;
• having removed the racks with jumpers from the assembly board, they are turned over 90 degrees and in this position are again fixed to the board with clamps;
• the ends and middle of thin-walled pipes intended for diagonal bracing are flattened with a hammer and holes for bolts are drilled into them;
• Having tightened two diagonal ties in the middle with a bolt, they are placed on the racks and the places for drilling holes are marked;
• the couplers are fixed to the racks with bolts and tightened with nuts;
• holes are drilled on posts and railings for bolted connections;
• plates (thrust bearings) are welded to pipe sections;
• the assembled structure is placed vertically and thrust bearings are inserted into the lower ends of the pipes;
• Flooring from “magpie” boards is laid on the side lintels.

Helpful advice: to prevent longitudinal displacement of the flooring, you need to screw 30x30 mm steel corners to its lower part at the point of contact with the lintels.

Diagonal ties must be fastened on one side of the scaffolding, and horizontal ties on the other, so that they do not interfere with each other during assembly.

If the installation of scaffolding is carried out with the extension of a section of the third tier (4.5 meters), then in its racks it is necessary to make holes for attaching a profile pipe of a thrust bevel, which protects the structure from falling.

In the lower and upper parts of the racks of each section, it is necessary to drill holes for bolted connections with other sections (when extending the scaffolding in length).