Heating appliances are a necessary attribute of any residential building, providing comfortable temperature for life during the cold period, which in most regions of Russia lasts 9 months. However, additional comfort comes with a certain degree of fire risk. Therefore, special attention is paid to the chimney, through which smoke and combustion products are removed from the heat generators and discharged outside the room. This article will tell you how to remove a chimney through the roof in compliance with all safety requirements.

As a rule, the work of a stove maker or installer gas equipment chimney installation services are not included; the homeowner must ensure the passage of the chimney pipe through the roof independently. The imaginary simplicity of the task makes home craftsmen refuse the services of professional roofers. However, poor-quality pipe installation on the roof can have serious consequences:

1. Through an unsealed pipe passage, moisture seeps into the masonry, gradually destroying it.
2. High humidity inside stimulates the spread of mold microorganisms and fungi. Spores of some types of fungus are dangerous to the human condition, so it is unsafe to use an infected tube. In advanced cases, both the chimney and the stove masonry must be replaced
3. The penetration of water into the passage of the chimney pipe through the roof reduces the thermal insulation properties of the insulation by half. Moreover, after the thermal insulation layer dries, its characteristics will never return to their previous level.
4. Even the rafter system suffers from poor-quality pipe removal through the roof, since moisture penetrating into it through a leaky passage leads to rot and destruction.
5. Gaps near the pipe passage disrupt the normal air circulation inside the attic, leading to increased energy losses and heating costs.

By the way, not only are they brought onto the roof stove chimneys, pipes from gas boilers and ventilation vents are also placed there, for installation of which the same methods are used.

Choosing the location of the chimney outlet and its height

The first condition for a high-quality pipe outlet through the roof is the correct placement of the chimney on the roof. The functioning of the entire heating system depends on this factor, therefore, in order to avoid errors, installation is carried out in accordance with construction and fire safety requirements:

• Chimney pipes are placed in close proximity to the high place roofs, at a distance of 1-1.5 m.
• The recommended height of the chimney relative to the roof ridge to ensure normal stove draft is 0.5-1.5 m.
• The greater the height of the chimney, the greater the draft force in the stove or gas boiler she provides.
• The lower the pipe is located on the slope, the longer its length must be so that the recommended height of the chimney above the roof complies with the recommendations.
• Parameters such as chimney height and cross-sectional diameter are selected according to the recommendations of the manufacturer of the thermal generating device or based on calculations.
• The chimney consists mainly of vertical sections of pipes; the length of horizontal segments should not exceed 1 m.
• The output location is placed between the elements rafter system so as not to violate its integrity.

The main difficulty of passing a pipe through the roof is that during the passage of smoke, the temperature of the walls increases, which creates a risk of fire of flammable materials in the rafter system.

Elastic penetration

Most often in private construction they encounter installation metal pipes round section. To ensure tightness of the passage, use special device– elastic penetration. This is a product made of high-strength silicone or rubber, shaped like a funnel with a wide flange in the form of a square or circle, called an apron. Thanks to its properties, the elastic penetration takes any shape, adapting to the angle of inclination of the slope. It can withstand extremely high or low temperatures, exposure to aggressive chemicals and comes in a wide range.

When purchasing an elastic penetration, they are guided by the diameter of the pipe and the color of the roofing material. Universal models, in the form of a stepped pyramid, are suitable for any size; adjustment is carried out by trimming the penetration to the desired level. Installing an elastic apron on the roof is very simple, you need to place it on the chimney passage, apply a metal circle with holes for fasteners, treat the joint with fire-resistant sealant and secure it with a screwdriver. Used for roofs with steep slopes special kind penetration made of plastic with a given flange mounting angle.

Metal feedthrough

IN construction stores You can find another type of penetration for round pipes - a metal feedthrough. It is used to pass a chimney through a roof that does not have a relief. Finished alloy steel pipes have a standard roof angle, which is adjusted to the roof slope. To perform installation, you must:

Cut a hole of a suitable shape in the roof. To do this, markings are applied to the roof surface using a marker. Depending on the roofing material, cutting is performed with a grinder or sharp scissors, retreating 1-2 cm inside the circle.

• Remove the waterproofing and thermal insulation material from the hole made, freeing the passage for the chimney. If necessary, remove the sheathing elements by carefully sawing them off.
• On the underside of the roof, secure a sheet of fire-resistant material with a hole of the required diameter of such an area that there is a margin of 15-20 cm on each side of the chimney.
• Insert the pipe module into the hole, connect it to the laid chimney, tightening the connection with a clamp.
• Place the outlet pipe onto the pipe, securing it to the surface of the slope with fire-resistant sealant and self-tapping screws with a rubber cap.
• Add new segments to the pipe so that the height of the chimney exceeds the level of the ridge by 0.5-1.5 m.

Some craftsmen prefer to use a different method - they solder a chimney pipe into the passage pipe in advance, line it with thermal insulating material, for example stone wool, and only then install this structure into the passage.

Output of rectangular and square pipes

Made of brick, most often square or rectangular in shape, so other methods are used to bring it to the roof. This task is for an experienced stove master, and not a home craftsman, because the process uses a special masonry technique. When the chimney approaches the roof, a hole of the appropriate size is cut out in it with an allowance of 2-5 cm, through which the stove maker discharges. Although heat-resistant brick perfectly retains heat inside the pipe, the inside of the passage is lined with asbestos sheets to protect the rafters from fire.

On brick pipe using a metal profile, a soft waterproofing tape on a lead or aluminum base is attached, the lower edge of which is fixed to the roof using sealant. After this, the unsightly waterproofing is covered with a special decorative apron. It consists of four additional parts and is installed under the roofing material, making the passage neat and well protected.

Installation of the outlet box

The roof structure consists of layers of several materials, the fire-resistant qualities of which are expressed in different ways. While most roofing materials do not burn or support combustion, a rafter system traditionally made from wood does not have such properties. In order to safely remove the chimney pipe through any material, install a passage box:

• The first step is to purchase or make a box from a fire-resistant material, for example, metal or asbestos. The size of the box is selected in accordance with the cross-section of the pipe, so that there is at least 15 cm between their walls.
• After making the hole, a box is installed in it, the upper edge is aligned with the level of the roof slope.
• Exit the chimney through the hole in the passage box. The edges waterproofing film and vapor barriers are glued to the pipe using fire-resistant sealant and reinforced tape.
• Expanded clay is poured inside the box or stone wool is laid to thermally insulate the chimney. Thermal insulating materials are placed taking into account that they should not impede air circulation.
• The outside of the chimney pipe, depending on the shape and roofing material, is finished using an elastic penetration, a decorative apron or a metal pipe.

A well-made chimney outlet does not spoil appearance roofs, does not allow moisture to pass through and is safe from the point of view fire safety standards. Follow the correct technology for passing tubes through ceilings to protect yourself and your property.

Video instruction

For comfortable year-round living, Vacation home must have a heating system. Regardless of its type, whether it is gas or wood, combustion products are removed through a chimney pipe, which is discharged outside through the roof of the house. The main purpose of roofing trim around chimney– protection of the roof from leaks and overheating. Read on in our article to learn how to carry out the entire complex of work correctly and avoid making serious mistakes.

Sealing a pipe on the roof

Sealing of the chimney on the roof is carried out taking into account the shape of the pipe and the relief of the roof covering:

• For rectangular and square designs, a metal apron is suitable;
• For round outlets, elastic rubber or polymer penetrations are often used;
• Sandwich-type pipes are equipped with a metal cone fixed at an angle to a steel apron;
• Slate or metal tiles are equipped with lead abutment strips or the Master Flash system.

Places where pipes pass through the roof

There is a pattern - the lower the pipe is placed along the roof slope, the more effort will be required to waterproof the joint between the chimney and the roof.

Roofs made from corrugated sheets are equipped with pipes in the following areas:

• Near the skate. According to SNiP 41-01-2003, the installation of the device near the ridge will reduce the likelihood of the formation of snow pockets and the appearance of condensation.
• Insulation of the chimney on the slope. The passage of the chimney is at a distance of 500-700 mm. from the roof ridge reduces the risk of leakage and preserves truss structure. Elastic penetrations or additional apron elements will help protect the joint.

Structural elements of the junction of the roof and the chimney

When planning to make a chimney passage through the roof with your own hands, start with a wooden box.

1. Select bars that match the thickness of the floor beams (minimum 5-10 cm), and measure a length that increases the size of the pipe by 15-25 cm.
2. Connect the boards to form a square or rectangular structure (corresponding to the shape of the chimney), attach to the horizontal and vertical floor beams.
3. Prepare Additional materials: upper and lower apron, tie (a long smooth sheet with a flange to drain rainwater), sealant.
4. The abutment strips that form the apron are installed on the sides, top and bottom. An internal flashing is placed under the roofing material to drain water. A tie with a length equal to the distance of the lower apron to the cornice is placed under it. External junction strips perform decorative functions and prevent moisture from entering the area where the chimney passes through the roof.
5. Closing the hole around the pipe and floor beams will help basalt wool. The distance between the concrete and brick chimney, relative to the elements of the rafter system, is 13 cm; a gap of 25 cm is left from the ceramic non-insulated pipe; if there is a heat-insulating layer, 13 cm.
6. The gap between the pipe and the combustible material is closed sheet metal. The tightness of the roof is ensured by a special film, which is cut through with an envelope and the edges are fixed on the outer part of the pipe or wooden box.

When organizing the output of a round pipe, it is enough to select an elastic seal, eliminating the need for additional waterproofing protection around the penetration.

Skate cutting

A smooth metal apron and a decorative seal made of slate or corrugated board will allow water to be drained away from the smoke system passing through the ridge.

1. Lay a tin sheet (tie) near the pipe, placed under the roofing.
2. Fix the bottom, then the side and top abutment strips.
3. Fill the joints near the pipe with silicone-based sealant.
4. Press with the top strips of the apron.

Walking on the ramp

When constructing a small penetration, fix the drainage gutter on the roof slope.

Cutting for pipes with a width of more than 80 cm will require the creation of a slope on the roof slope to drain water coming from above to the center of the chimney.

Two short valleys (grooves) are formed on top. The lower valley strip is installed at the joints of negative angles, protecting against water entering the under-roof space. It is placed before laying the corrugated sheets. The top bar performs purely decorative functions.

Bypassing the rafter system

A high-quality connection of the roof to the chimney pipe is possible with a rigid sheathing, which allows the load to be evenly distributed. The chimney is usually installed before the rafter system is strengthened.

If the withdrawal is carried out later, it is important to provide a distance from the rafters of more than 20 cm, otherwise it will be necessary to dismantle the sheathing, weakening the overall system.

1. Set under elements rafter frame support posts, cut off the ceilings and connect them to the entire rafters using horizontal jumpers.
2. Build a reliable frame around the smoke outlet, firmly connected to the rafter system and roof sheathing.

Chimney passage through a metal roof

Waterproofing a chimney on a metal tile roof requires the preparation of the following tools and materials:

• construction pencil or marker;
• drill and set of drills;
• grinder with 2 mm disc;
• silicone sealant;
• riveter;
• aluminum tapes and clamps;
• metal corners;
• roofing screws;
• long ruler or tape measure;
• pliers and hammer.

Tools and materials necessary for work

Bypassing a chimney on a metal tile roof involves the creation of two protective layers, which are done as follows:

1. An internal apron covering the roof and chimney is assembled on the sheathing.
2. Prepare the external decorative strips covering the roofing material and the lower apron.

If the smoke system is located near the ridge, then the edge of the upper strip is inserted under the ridge element.

The arrangement of the internal apron begins with the bottom wall of the riser.

1. Each element covers the slope by 200 mm and rises vertically along the ventilation structure to a height of 150 mm.
2. The side strips go under the ridge of the metal tile, cover the lower element of the apron along the entire length, and extend beyond the pipe by 20 cm.
3. All parts are firmly connected with self-tapping screws.
4. Measure 15 cm on the pipe, use a grinder to make a groove 15 mm deep.
5. Next, fill the ditch with silicone sealant, after which the lower junction bar is fixed.

Important! The upper part of the apron should fit tightly into the groove filled with sealant.

All that remains is to lay the roofing material and attach the top strips to the chimney with self-tapping screws, and fill the sealing line with waterproofing mastic.

Cutting for round pipes: metal penetration

A ready-made apron-cap, represented by a metal sheet with a hole, covered with an inclined truncated cone, will help seal a round chimney.

1. The sheet is attached to the sheathing, the pipe is passed through a cap, the upper part of which is pressed to the chimney with a steel clamp with a heat-resistant gasket.
2. In order to direct the flow of water downward, a bead is made along the edge of the sheet using pliers and a hammer.

Interesting to know! An apron for a round chimney is made from black steel with a thickness of 1-3 mm. The metal is coated with heat-resistant enamel that can withstand heat up to 600 degrees. It is also possible to produce stainless steel parts with a maximum thickness of 2 mm.

Sealing the junction of the roof and pipe with the Master Flash system

Master Flash— these elastic penetrations are made in the form of a stepped pyramid with an aluminum or lead soft base. The design can withstand an operating temperature range of 50°C (+ 130°C), and is easily adjusted to the steepness of the roof.

Installation of the elastic assembly of the passage through the roof is carried out in the following order:

1. Select a seal ring with a gap 20% less than the diameter of the ventilation system.
2. The seal is pulled over the pipe, having previously been moistened with a soap solution.
3. The cap is secured with sealant and screws equipped with neoprene or rubber gaskets. Pitch - 35 mm.

Important point! Elastic penetrations with a flexible lead or aluminum ring are equipped with an adhesive layer located under protective film. To enhance fixation, use additional adhesive.

Aluminum and lead tapes

An alternative to ready-made penetrations is to waterproof the chimney with self-adhesive aluminum/lead tape based on bitumen or modified polymers. It allows you to seal the joints between the pipe and the roof.

Waterproofing a pipe using self-adhesive tape is done in several stages:

1. Clean the area where the tape will be applied, then press the film firmly.
2. Cover the vertical part of the chimney with sections, simultaneously covering the horizontal roof covering.
3. Clamp the tape with a metal strip and secure with heat-resistant dowels.

Pipe sealing tape - great way save time and money

Sealing rectangular and square pipes

A tie made of metal parts(junction strips), which are inserted under the coating by 150-200 mm.

The junction of the apron with the corrugated sheet around the chimney is sealed with roofing sealant. Eaves outlets are installed at the bottom and sides, directing the flow of precipitation onto the roof slope.

Before applying corrugated sheeting, it is necessary to seal the passage of the riser with a membrane.

1. A cross-shaped cut is made in the material and glued to the walls of the chimney at a height of more than 5 cm.
2. Self-adhesive “Vakaflex” tape is attached under the upper junction bar: from below, from the side, then from above.

• Sometimes a chimney is installed in a finished roof, cutting a hole in the corrugated sheet with a margin of 1.5-2 cm. To do this a metal sheet at the junction rectangular pipe bend it back, glue the waterproofing membrane and install the lower, then the upper sheathing, tightly pressed to the roofing pie and the chimney.

Plastering a pipe

To avoid the formation of a thick layer of plaster, you should know how to properly insulate pipes:

1. First, seal all existing irregularities in the pipe with cement mortar;
2. Then cover the walls with reinforcing mesh;
3. The final stage is applying plaster.

Important! Before covering the first layer, bring the solution of lime, cement and slag chips (or sand) to the consistency of sour cream, spray without leveling. The second coating is denser; it is applied with a trowel, rubbing until a smooth surface is obtained.

Strengthening the pipe with asbestos cement

Lining a chimney with asbestos cement requires the use of a cement-lime mixture applied to the surface of the slabs.

1. The chimney is reinforced with mesh and the first layer of solution is sprayed.
2. A new layer of the mixture is applied to the insulation sections and attached to the surface of the chimney.

Asbestos contains carcinogens that are dangerous to humans, so experts do not recommend using it in residential areas.

Sheet iron cladding

When insulating a metal pipe, you should maintain a distance of 60 cm from the chimney to flammable materials.

1. The structure is wrapped in mineral wool 5 cm thick, overlapping, and clamped with steel wire. The top is wrapped with a metal sheet.
2. Rivets are inserted into the previously prepared gaps, and the heads of the clamps are closed with a special tool.

What is the goal?

When preparing drawings, it is important to provide for the direct location of the pipe coming from the furnace.

• The maximum heating temperature of the outer wall of the chimney should not exceed 50 degrees.
• Waterproofing a brick chimney on the roof allows you to comply with established standards, and metal elements will require additional insulation to prevent the formation of condensation.

After installing the pipe, it is enough to carry out plastering followed by laying millite silica, thermal insulation wool MKRR-130 or rolled felt MKRF-100.

Chimney fire protection

Today, ready-made “sandwich” panels made of steel or ceramics are available for sale. Their installation proceeds as follows:

1. For installation modular system, an asbestos gasket is installed between the stove and the chimney.
2. Then a layer of solution is applied on which the module is placed. Level, and secure subsequent blocks with a layer of mortar.
3. Passage places smoke device through the roof they are well insulated. Fire-resistant insulation of the roof will be provided by a galvanized steel box, secured with staples to the rafters and cross beams at the point where the pipe passes.

Pipe waterproofing

Fast and reliable protection Chimney leak prevention is carried out by applying roll materials.

Main stages of installation work:

1. The pipe is coated with a primer and covered with a superdiffusion membrane. Instead of a primer, it is possible to use polymer-bitumen mastic. The membrane is glued to the roof, the edges are placed on the pipe.
2. The top and bottom ties are made from metal. The bars are stuffed onto the sheathing and the corners are secured.
3. The rolled material is laid overlapping, allowing for proper water drainage on a soft or metal roof. The length of the bottom sheet reaches the roof overhang.
4. The joints are insulated bitumen mastic. The corners are secured to the sheathing with dowels. The cracks are treated with heat-resistant sealant.
5. The roofing decking is laid, a PVC apron is placed on top using Onduflesh tape, and the sealing is completed.

Fixing a roof leak near a pipe

There is a leaking pipe on the roof of the house - bitumen tape, a polymer cap or a tin apron will solve the problem.

Insulation with bitumen tape takes place in 5 steps:

1. Use a metal brush to clean the roof around the chimney along the outer lower part.
2. Remove dust and dirt with a damp cloth.
3. At the junction of the pipe and roofing pie glue pieces of bitumen tape.
4. The segments are warmed up gas burner, pressed as tightly as possible to the roof and smoke outlet.
5. Wooden blocks or boards are fixed on top. The service life of the tape is 2-3 years.

Polymer cuffs reliably protect the joint between the roof and the oval pipe and do not cause any particular difficulties during installation:

1. In the upper section of the cuff, a cutout is made with a diameter less than the thickness of the chimney.
2. Place it on the outer part of the riser and lower it to the roof level.
3. In places where the roof comes into contact with the cuff, use protective layer sealant.

Polymer sleeves for pipes are an excellent and inexpensive way protect the roof from leaks

Creation of metal bends

To protect against water, a tin apron with parameters similar to the dimensions of the pipe is put on the chimney pipe. The upper part of the covering is fixed to vertical design, compressed with clamps and sealed. The lower part of the apron is installed on the roof over the roof sheathing and secured with self-tapping screws.

Special “layouts” will also help prevent water from penetrating into the ceiling - wide metal strips with a side edge that seals the gap between the top layer of the roofing pie and the pipe. Layouts are placed between the ridge and the passage of the pipe, covered on all sides.

Cost of material and work

The cost of services for installation and repair of roof penetrations, depending on the volume or complexity of the work, is 450-850 rubles/m2.

Name of material	Price
Self-adhesive strip with aluminum foil 12.5 m long, 8 cm wide	2500-3000 rub.
Bitumen mastic	50 rub./kg
Cement mastic	40 rub./kg
Apron	100 rub./m linear
Elastic penetration Master Flash for sealing pipes	1500 rub.
Flange	500-800 rub.

Roofing chimney- an important stage of construction, requiring correct selection materials and compliance with the sequence of operations.

When creating waterproofing for the junction of the roof and the chimney system, you should ensure maximum safety and comfort, without fires or leaks.

As you know, penetration through the roof looks like a passage unit that is used to install steel ventilation shafts in places where they are located in roofing coverings of structures of various designs and purposes.

Next we will talk about what types of roof penetrations, as well as about the features of their design and use. Thus, the roof penetration should be located on reinforced concrete glasses. It is fixed by screwing nuts onto the anchor bolts provided in the design. Thermal insulation material there is a plate consisting of mineral wool and fiberglass.

A special mechanism that regulates valve control has two functional operating modes:

• "open";
• "closed".

Under no circumstances should the valve driving mechanism be positioned lower than the ring coupling, as this may cause condensation to accumulate in the system.

Typically, roof penetrations are installed in buildings that have one of two types of ventilation systems:

• natural ventilation;
• forced ventilation.

Also in the process of designing a particular structure, choosing a specific ventilation system a huge impact provides whole line factors, which include, for example, humidity levels, highest and lowest air temperatures, etc.

In this case, roof penetration is calculated by considering two main indicators:

1. Roofing angle.
2. Interval from penetration to roof ridge.

The passage unit includes a pipe connected to the support flange. This flange performs fastening functions and is used to fix the roof penetration to the reinforced concrete glass. The flange located at the bottom serves to secure valves and air ducts, while the top one is used when a shaft with round section. To fix the braces located on the roof covering, it is necessary to use special brackets, and clamps should be used for this in the shaft.

Performance properties of roof penetrations

If the roof passage has manual drive, then it should work stably so that there is no need to switch modes from time to time.

Typically, a manual drive consists of:

• tailor's cloth;
• control mechanism;
• cable;
• counterweight.

Additional protection against water ingress roofing The installation of such an element of the system as a skirt will give it. If necessary, roof penetrations can be equipped with a special element, the purpose of which is to collect condensate. This part can simply be welded to the pipe, and then it will prevent moisture coming from a mixture of gases and air from penetrating under the roof.

There is also a certain number of factors that directly affect whether both a conventional penetration and an angular roof penetration will work normally. According to this series of requirements, you first need to decide on the design of a certain unit in accordance with climatic conditions, and then take into account other options, for example, whether it will be possible to use a seal for roofing unit and in what quantity it can be used.

When making roof penetrations, it is customary to take black with a thickness of 1.5 to 2 millimeters as the main material.

Roof passage units can also be installed using of stainless steel, which comes in two categories:

• stainless steel having a thickness of 0.5 millimeters;
• stainless steel having a thickness of 0.8 millimeters.

On this moment In production there are 11 options for the size of roof penetrations. However, sometimes manufacturers can create samples that differ from standard diameters and are intended for different systems.

The main purpose of roof penetration is to correctly install the ventilation system on the roof of a certain structure. This significantly improves air circulation and makes operating conditions more comfortable.

Today there is also a wide choice supply systems, during installation equipped with high-quality sound insulation.

What are roof penetrations made of?

The design of standard units includes two main parts, and those, in turn, consist of an outer and internal contours, each of which has a special insulating layer made using basalt fabric, resistant to fire and temperature changes.

Typically, roof penetrations consist of black steel, 1 to 3 millimeters thick and coated with black enamel that is resistant to high temperatures, thanks to which the nodes are able to withstand impacts up to 600 degrees. According to some operational standards, and also technical specifications and according to the wishes of the developer, stainless steel can also be used as a material for penetrations. Its thickness can be from 1 to 2 millimeters.

The production of roof penetrations must be inextricably linked with the following three criteria:

1. Roofing angle.
2. The thickness of the space under the roof, as well as the roof rafters.
3. Materials used as the basis for the construction of the rafter system, the ceiling of the building and the roof itself.

To prevent moisture that appears after precipitation from penetrating through the roof penetration, it is necessary to use special “layouts”, which look like a metal strip equipped with a hole intended for the chimney and a special side flange. The material for the “layout” is usually polyester, and it will be correct to use the color that matches the color of the roof covering. This element is located between the roof ridge and the passage unit, which should be covered by a “layout” on each side.

Installation of roof penetration, detailed video:

1. The choice of seal ring is made on the basis of a calculation according to which the diameter of the resulting hole should be approximately 20% smaller than the diameter of the pipe going through the roof.
2. The seal itself is pulled directly onto the pipe. If difficulties arise, you can use a soap solution.
3. The seal is shaped into the base by pressing it against the roof. Tools can be used to secure the flange edges.
4. A special sealant is applied to the space under the flange.
5. The flange is fastened with screws, which should be at a distance of 35 millimeters from each other.

This completes the installation of the roof penetration.

This data should be used when bringing ventilation and chimneys to the surface of the roof. It is important to remember that when using roofing penetrations, this can be done not only simply, but also efficiently, moreover, it cannot cause any harm to the roof itself. If desired, any installation information with detailed photos and videos of the entire device process can be easily found on our website.

A modern home is a complex system that cannot fully function autonomously. One way or another, various communications must be connected to the house, and some of these connections are made through the roof. In order to ensure the aesthetics and tightness of the roof in places where pipes, ventilation, antennas, etc. enter, it is necessary to select the right roof penetrations.

Roof penetrations: distinctive characteristics

A special unit used for installing pipes and other additional elements is necessary to avoid roof leakage - this is a roof penetration. And if earlier roofers had to use various improvised means to seal joints, then modern technologies and the responsibility of manufacturers of roofing accessories allow us to create simple and reliable ready-made solutions for complete protection and thermal stability of your roof and attic space.
Roof penetrations are made of aluminum and complement rubber seal. Aluminum is durable and lightweight material, which is able to withstand constant significant loads and not lose its original qualities. The penetration model should be selected in strict accordance with the pipe diameter. Also take into account the angle of entry of the pipe, antenna mast or weather vane - depending on this, the penetration may have a straight or angular entry.

Buy roof penetrations in Moscow

Only high-quality accessories can provide durable and reliable protection for your roof. That is why you should not waste time searching - contact us! We will help you make the right choice. In our store you will find roofing penetrations at the most attractive prices and in great variety.

The system for the safe removal of combustion products from furnaces, boilers, instantaneous water heaters is one of the most serious problems solved during the installation of such equipment. Moreover, safety issues are very diverse: this includes ensuring the correct operation of the heating equipment itself and eliminating the possibility of fire building structures from overheating, and guaranteed prevention of toxic gases entering the premises. This entire range of problems can be solved by competent installation of modern kits, in strict accordance with the requirements of the technology.

Such products are produced in a wide variety of components, which allows you to assemble chimneys of any degree of complexity that optimally fit into the architectural specifics of each specific house. A layer of insulation between the inner and outer walls can significantly reduce the volume of condensate formed in the pipe channel due to a sharp temperature difference, and such chimneys are very often located outside buildings, which greatly simplifies general construction and installation work.

However, quite often there are situations when outdoor installation chimney is impossible, impractical, or the owners simply refuse this approach for reasons of aesthetics of the facade of their house. The solution is obvious - install a chimney from sandwich pipes through the roof. True, this method seems more complicated, if only because of the need to carry out safe and well-insulated penetration through the floors and roof. However, there is nothing impossible about this.

What is a sandwich pipe for a chimney? Advantages and disadvantages of the system

The use of ordinary metal pipes as chimney ducts is not something new - they were used quite widely before, for example, for potbelly stoves or for. This wave is explainable - a whole series is obvious benefits in front of, for example, brickwork:

• The installation of such a chimney does not take much time, since the installation is made from large parts.
• The circular cross-section of the channel is optimal for the best traction, since it does not create unnecessary turbulence in the gas flow.
• Smooth also contributes to good traction. inner surface pipes that do not create unnecessary resistance, and in addition, soot build-up forms on it to a much lesser extent.

But at the same time, such a scheme also has pronounced shortcomings , and so serious that they can outweigh all the advantages listed above.

• Metal (steel in particular) has extremely high thermal conductivity, that is, in open areas of the chimney or when it passes through unheated rooms, the flow of gases will cool very quickly. And this leads to a decrease in draft in the pipe, and in addition, the amount of draft becomes highly dependent on current weather conditions.
• Combustion products of any type of fuel always contain a large number of water vapor. The above-mentioned temperature difference inside and outside the channel causes abundant formation of condensate, which causes the pipes to quickly become overgrown with soot and intensify metal corrosion processes.

• Since we are talking about corrosion, we must not forget that exhaust gases always contain very aggressive chemical compounds, in particular sulfuric acid. In such conditions, the service life of pipes made of non-corrosion-resistant metal will be very limited - they will quickly burn through. And this is a direct road to fire.
• Finally, the high thermal conductivity of metal means that the pipe indoors and when passing through building structures will always be a potential safety hazard. Thus, enhanced precautions will be required to prevent overheating and fire of the building structures of the house, in order to prevent thermal burns from accidentally touching the chimney in areas where it passes through the premises.

Chimney prices

In order to preserve all the mentioned advantages, but at the same time minimize the disadvantages of a metal chimney, a system of insulated sandwich pipes was developed. Essentially, it is a “pipe within a pipe” separated by a layer of heat-resistant thermal insulation material. An approximate diagram of the device is shown in the illustration below:

1 – the chimney channel itself. Special requirements are imposed on it - it must be made of high-quality steel with pronounced corrosion resistance, and the pipe must be manufactured only by welding, using argon welding in a protective gas environment (TIG technology). A pipe with a seam seam is absolutely unacceptable.

2 – outer metal casing. Most often it is also made of stainless steel. However, there are also budget options– made of galvanized steel. In addition, it is possible to purchase sandwich pipes with an external decorative coating, for example, if this is necessary to maintain the appearance of the facade or interior design of the premises through which the chimney passes.

3 – thermal insulation layer. As a rule, this function is performed by heat-resistant mineral wool from basalt fibers, with a density from 120 to 200 kg/m³. The thickness of the insulation layer can vary - it is selected in accordance with specific conditions: the type and power of the heating device, the chimney layout, the climatic conditions of the region and other criteria.

4 – pipes are equipped with special elements for quick and reliable installation. In most cases, this is a system of bells and tapers, which, when connected, together with the sealants used, form a sealed unit. For greater reliability, additional tightening of these connecting nodes using clamps is provided. There are other installation methods, for example, some models provide flange connections with threaded fasteners.

As a result, the chimney structure assembled from such modules acquires new positive qualities:

• Due to the stability of temperature indicators inside the chimney duct, regardless of the weather and the location of a particular section of the system, stable, even draft is ensured.
• The formation of condensation, although not completely eliminated, is still reduced to a minimum.
• The outer surface of the sandwich pipe does not heat up to critical temperatures, and will not pose a danger to people living in the house if it needs to pass through the premises of the upper floor, attic, or attic.
• The organization of pipe penetrations through ceilings and roofs becomes much easier. In addition, many manufacturers immediately provide special pass-through modules of the required size in their kits.
• The chimney system itself, assembled from sandwich modules, does not have a significant mass, and it can easily be installed using the mounted principle, that is, the chimney rests directly on the stove or boiler. It will not place excessive stress on bearing structures at home when attached to them.

• A wide variety of components for assembling such a system allows you to create a chimney of the required degree of complexity, diameter, insulation thickness, height, and the assembly process itself is simple and intuitive for any technically savvy homeowner.

How to choose the right sandwich chimney installation kit

The selection of components for chimney installation must be approached with maximum responsibility. First of all, since the chimney will be installed indoors, with a passage through the ceiling and roof, the issues of ensuring complete safety of its operation come to the fore. Well, it is clear that such work is carried out with the expectation of long-term use, and so that after a few years the owners are not disappointed, the purchased components must be of high quality, certified, and accompanied by a documented manufacturer’s warranty.

Sandwich chimney prices

sandwich chimneys

The choice always comes down to evaluating several criteria:

• The quality of manufacturing of the sandwich chimney components and the materials used in the production process.
• The throughput of the chimney channel, that is, the cross-section inner tube.
• The thickness of the required thermal insulation layer.
• A drawn up installation diagram and the parts and assemblies necessary for its implementation.

Let's go through these points one by one.

Sandwich chimney pipe material

Such systems for removing combustion products are in extremely wide demand nowadays. Unfortunately, increased demand, as, alas, usually happens, is accompanied by the appearance on the market of low-quality products, either “without identification marks” at all, or passed off as one or another brand.

It is clear that a self-respecting owner will not purchase obviously low-quality goods in unknown retail outlets or from your hands - here you can’t expect a quality guarantee at all. But it happens that even in large stores, no, no, and counterfeit goods will appear. So, increased attention is paid to the documentation (and the registration certificate must be present).

It also happens that sellers interested in sales at any cost do not try to draw the attention of consumers to the features of the metal used for the manufacture of pipes. But stainless steel looks almost the same in appearance, and often an uninformed buyer purchases a product that, in principle, is not suitable for the existing or planned operating conditions of the chimney system.

As a result, it becomes very likely that after installation and seemingly several months of flawless operation (or even two or three years, which is also extremely short for such a design!), an outwardly “beautiful and shiny” chimney suddenly begins to show signs of leaking gases into the room. And this is already a serious signal that not everything is in order with him, and a serious accident is not far off, fraught with burning out of the internal pipe, which often ends in fire hazardous situations.

• Therefore, be sure to pay attention to the grade of stainless steel from which the inner and outer pipes of the sandwich chimney are made. If there is no mention of this, the acquisition should be categorically rejected.

The following sign will help you make your choice. Of course, it does not present all grades of stainless steel, but only those that are usually used for the manufacture of sandwich chimneys and are most often found on sale.

Stainless steel grade according to AISI (USA), EN (EU), DIN (Germany), GOST (Russia) standards				Brief description and recommendations for use
AISI	EN	DIN	GOST
AISI 430	1.4016	X6Cr17	12Х17	One of the most affordable options. Suitable for use only in non-aggressive conditions. Thermal resistance – low, weak corrosion resistance. Poorly amenable to high-quality welding. Suitable only for the outer casing of the chimney.
AISI 439	1.4510	X3CrTi17	08Х17Т	The difference from the previous brand is the presence of titanium additives, which increases the thermal and anti-corrosion resistance of the metal. As a material for the inner pipe of a sandwich chimney, it is permissible to use it with heat generators or instantaneous water heaters operating only on gas.
AISI 304	1.4301	X5CrNI18-10	08Х18Н10	This steel has good heat resistance, but resistance to acid corrosion is low. It is not used for the internal chimney pipe, since corrosion can eat such a pipe literally within a few months, but for external cladding it is quite suitable.
AISI 316	1.4401	X5CrNiMo17-12-2	08Х17Н13М2	Austenitic chromium-nickel-molybdenum steel, resistant to very aggressive environment flue gases, including those with a high content of sulfuric acid. Thermal stability is average, so it is better to use for gas-powered equipment with maximum temperature combustion products up to 450ºС.
AISI 316Ti	1.4571	X6CrNiMoTi17-12-2	10Х17Н13М2Т	The steel is similar to the previous one, but with much higher heat resistance. Withstands heat loads up to 800÷850 ºС, that is, chimneys with an internal pipe made of such material can be used with solid fuel equipment.
AISI 316L	1.4435	X2CrNiMo18-14-3	03Х17Н14М2	In this variety, the emphasis is on anti-corrosion and chemical acid resistance, especially in the area of ​​welded joints. True, due to a decrease in the overall heat resistance, which is limited to a threshold of 425 ºС, when this value is exceeded, the strength properties of steel sharply decrease. An excellent option for any gas equipment.
AISI 321	1.4541	X6CrNiTi18-10	08Х18Н10Т	Steel with high corrosion resistance and heat resistance. According to its parameters, it is a kind of “golden standard” for use in combustion product removal systems. Limit temperature regime operation – 800 ºС, that is, suitable for equipment with any type of fuel.
AISI 310S	1.4845	X12CrNi25-21	20Х23Н18	Stainless steel, classified as heat-resistant, can withstand operating temperatures reaching up to 1000 ºС without any loss of quality. Used for chimneys installed on solid fuel pyrolysis boilers high power.

Currently, from the countries of Southeast Asia there has been a flow of products made from stainless steel that meets AISI 201 - 202 standards. This is often presented by sellers as a “step forward” - in the sense that the development of new technologies has ensured the production of steel, which is not inferior in its performance to the same AISI 321, but is almost one and a half times cheaper.

Experts in the field of metallurgy recommend not to fall for such tricks - replacing expensive nickel with nitrogen, manganese and copper additives leads to instability of the crystalline structure of the material, a high risk of cracks, and very low corrosion resistance. So this “step forward” is just a product designed for mass production, and which can only be classified as high-quality stainless steel with a large degree of convention.

A few words about the thickness of the pipe walls.

• For can be guided the following rules:

— with a diameter of the inner pipe in the range from 130 to 450 mm, its wall thickness is 0.5 mm;

- with a diameter of 500 mm - 0.6 mm.

- with a diameter above 500 mm - 0.8 mm.

• For furnaces, gas turbine units, that is, where the temperature of combustion products reaches values ​​​​of more than 450 ºС, the wall thickness of the inner pipe should be 0.8 mm, using heat-resistant or heat-resistant steel grades AISI 321, and for high-power boilers - better AISI 310S.
• Directly after the solid fuel heating device, an uninsulated section of the chimney is installed. Optimal solution for it it is a mono-pipe made of heat-resistant stainless steel (AISI 321 or AISI 316L) with a wall thickness of 0.8÷1.0 mm.
• For external casings of sandwich pipes, the requirements for steel grades are not too strict, but the wall thickness must be:

— with a diameter of up to 450 mm – 0.5 mm;

- with a diameter of 500 mm or more - 0.6 mm.

What diameter should the chimney duct be?

If you look at the range of components for sandwich chimneys included in the sale, you will immediately see that they are offered in quite a wide range diameters of the inner pipe – from 110 to 300 mm. How to make a choice?

The diameter of the “mono” section (it will be discussed below) and the entire internal pipe of the sandwich chimney must be such that all fuel combustion products are guaranteed to be removed, normal draft is ensured and, at the same time, the heat does not literally fly away “into pipe,” that is, a certain optimal gas flow rate was created and maintained. For heating devices This speed is generally considered to be two meters per second.

The easiest way to decide is on factory-made stoves and boilers - they always have an outlet pipe of a certain diameter, calculated by specialists specifically for this model. This parameter, in addition, must be specified in the passport of the heating or water heating device.

The rule is simple - the diameter of the inner pipe of a sandwich chimney should under no circumstances and in any area be less than the standard factory pipe. There are no restrictions on increasing the diameter, but it hardly makes any sense.

It becomes more difficult when, for example, a sandwich chimney is mounted on a brick stove. In this case, you can do the following.

• If known thermal power stove, then the cross-section of the chimney, and hence the diameter of the internal channel of the sandwich pipe, will be easy to determine using the table.

Estimated maximum thermal power of a solid fuel stove:	kW	up to 3.5	3.6 ÷ 5.2	5.3 ÷ 7.0
	kcal/hour	up to 3000	3000 ÷ 4500	4500 ÷ 6000
Minimum cross-section of a rectangular chimney		140×140 mm	140×200 mm	140×270 mm
Cross-sectional area of ​​the chimney duct		19600 mm²	28000 mm²	37800 mm²
Minimum diameter of the internal channel of a sandwich pipe		158 mm	189 mm	220 mm

• If the stove has already been in use, and the owners know the firing mode developed by practice, then you can rely on these data.

For such a calculation there is a formula:

d = √(2 × Mt × Vsp × (1 + Tout / 273) / (3600 × π))

In the formula, alphabetic symbols indicate:

d– diameter of the internal channel of the sandwich chimney, in millimeters.

Mt– average consumption of solid fuel per hour, in kilograms. It can be determined by dividing the mass of the fuel filler by the time it takes to completely burn out.

Vsp– specific volume of combustion products formed, cubic meters per kilogram – tabular value determined for the main types of fuel.

Yours— temperature of the gas flow at the outlet of the chimney, degrees. you can take the tabular value (see below).

π - known mathematical constant, ≈ 3.14

Table of required values ​​for various types of solid fuel.

Type of solid fuel	Average specific calorific value of fuel, kcal/kg	Average specific volume of combustion products from combustion of 1 kg of fuel, m³/kg	Optimum temperature at the chimney outlet, °C
Firewood with an average humidity level of no higher than 25%	3300	10	150
Pellets, wood briquettes	5100	9	150
Peat in lumps or in bulk, air dried, with a moisture content not exceeding 30%	3000	10	130
Peat in briquettes	4000	11	130
Brown coal	4700	12	120
Coal	6500	17	110
Anthracite	7000	17	110

Not everyone likes to exercise independent calculations, therefore, below is a calculator, which already contains all the necessary ratios and tabular data. The calculation process will be reduced to just entering a few values.