A warm home is something that no person can do without. By far the most effective traditional way Providing heat in a private home is the installation of a heating system and batteries. When we're talking about about a private house, then you can try to do everything yourself, after first familiarizing yourself with the necessary information regarding the installation.

First stage of installation

Considering that radiators today are presented in a huge variety, installing batteries begins with its selection. There is no ideal heating system - each type of radiator has its pros and cons, and you should choose the option whose disadvantages will allow the system to function as efficiently as possible.

Cast iron

Photo 1 Diagram of a cast iron battery

The main advantage that such radiators have is their durability and long service life; they can be used for up to 50 years. Also, this metal can withstand aggressive conditions, including coolant with various impurities, without damage.

Considering that the main quality of a heating system is its thermal conductivity, remember that with cast iron it is minimal. Even if the water temperature is low, the battery will remain warm for a long time.

Among the disadvantages of cast iron, the weight of the battery and the lack of aesthetics should be noted.

Aluminum

These batteries are lightweight, external design, high power levels of approximately 190 W. They are clearly not suitable for apartments in high-rise buildings due to the low quality of the coolant, because aluminum, due to constant exposure to dirty water oxidizes quickly, whereas for a private house such a radiator best option due to high thermal conductivity and low inertia.

During installation aluminum radiators, remember that to use brass or copper fittings not recommended as it leads to corrosion.

Bimetallic

This type of radiator is the most reliable. Among the main advantages are the following:

• resistance to sudden pressure changes in the system.
• high heat transfer.
• resistance to mechanical damage.

Steel

These are new batteries for heating, which are still used quite rarely, they have not gained much popularity, but are still sometimes found. The heat dissipation area is high, the size and weight are small, maximum resistance to rust, provided they are always filled.

On steel radiators installation is required on the return and supply pipelines shut-off valves.

Which heating radiators to install in a private house can be decided based on the area of ​​the building and its features.

Having chosen a radiator, you should proceed to such a stage as installing heating radiators in a private house, the video of which can be watched below, and right now you can read useful tips.

The initial stage is calculating the battery power. To heat 1 cubic meter of room in a modern house, built in compliance with building codes and rules, you will need 20 W.

If the house has old windows without double-glazed windows, add another 15% to the above figure.

Calculate the volume of the house, multiply the figure by the figure described above, then divide the resulting figure by the power of the section. The resulting figure will be the number of sections.

Video 1 Installation of heating batteries (radiators) in a private house with your own hands

Installation tool

To do everything yourself, you should stock up on the following tools:

• building level;
• drill;
• screwdriver and tape measure;
• a wrench for tightening the pipes and a pencil;
• key for installing sections;
• bypass - when installing radiators in single-pipe heating;
• shut-off valves.

Installation instructions

The first thing you need to do is turn off the heating system, drain the water, even use the pump. Next, fix the radiator on the supports and, using a level, check how accurately this was done, after which you perform the following procedure:

• remove all plugs from the device.
• if you are using a single-pipe circuit, then you need to connect a bypass with a valve. Provided that the circuit is two-pipe, the connection is made only with the help of a drive, and a valve is also fixed to it.
• connect the structure to the system using threaded fittings and use to seal the joints special seals, ideally - welding.

The rules for installing radiators provide for a process such as crimping, for which it is advisable to invite professional master having the appropriate equipment.

During the installation process, remember that the distance from the radiator to various objects must be maintained as follows:

• from the wall - 5 centimeters or more.
• from the floor - at least 10 centimeters.
• from the bottom of the window sill to the top of the battery - 5-10 cm.

Well, that’s basically all the subtleties of installing radiators. If you have any questions, you can watch how heating batteries are installed in a private house in the video, which shows everything in more detail, or ask a specialist a question in the comments to the article.

Content:

To install heating batteries in an apartment yourself, you need to choose the right type, decide on the type of wiring and connection diagram, and then follow the rules.

Do-it-yourself heating radiator installation - Photo

Defects in the heating system of an apartment can occur for many reasons, which may be impossible to eliminate without replacing the batteries. Then one of the most acceptable solutions would be to install heating radiators yourself. This is not a simple matter and requires strict adherence to technology and rules, as well as accuracy and at least minimal skills in handling simple tools, such as a level, different types keys, drill, screwdriver, etc. Equally important is the use quality materials and ideas on how to install the battery.

The main stages of self-installation of heating batteries

Stage 1. Preparatory. It includes quite a lot of actions, each of which is very important.

You should start with theory, only then will replacing heating radiators in an apartment be successful, and there will be no need to immediately correct the mistakes made.

Radiator wiring methods and their connection diagrams

Methods for laying heating pipes - Photo

You should start by studying the methods of wiring batteries and choosing the most suitable of the existing options:

Monotube or sequential . It is the simplest from the point of view of its design, which is a definite plus for people who have decided to do such work for the first time and are not very versed in how to install the battery.

The coolant flows sequentially to all heating devices and returns through the same pipe. It has the following significant disadvantages:

• The final battery with such a scheme most often does not warm up enough;
• there is no possibility of control over temperature conditions each radiator;
• To repair or replace the battery, you will have to disconnect the entire riser.

ADVICE. Install a bypass, which will allow you to turn off only those radiators that are equipped with this device.

Two-pipe . This option is somewhat more complicated than the previous one, but it is possible to cope with it with your own hands, you just need to put in maximum effort and diligence.

Here it is used parallel connection, when the coolant is supplied to each radiator and returns already cooled through another, called return.

Among the advantages of this option: the ability to regulate the degree of heating of the battery using thermostats, the room warms up more evenly, and repairs are much easier, since you can turn off any of the devices separately without involving the entire system in the process.

Collector . It is not used for apartments and is also the most difficult to implement. Therefore, we will not dwell on it in detail.

battery connection diagrams in the apartment - Photo

Of no less importance is connection diagram. They are selected taking into account the structural features of the apartment, the existing heating system and some other factors. Let's look at the features of each option:

• The most common connection type is one-sided lateral . It has good heat transfer, but if multi-section radiators are used in the apartment, then insufficient heating of those sections that are located on the edge is possible. Correcting this drawback is not at all difficult - you need to install an extension cord for the water flow.
• Lower. This method is advisable if the heating pipes pass under the baseboard or are built into the floor. Supply pipes hot water and the returns are located at the very bottom of the battery and are directed vertically downwards, which does not interfere with the aesthetic perception of the room. However, heat loss can reach very significant values ​​- up to 15%.
• Diagonal . This option is preferable if radiators have 12 or more sections. Here, the pipe with the hot medium is connected to the upper pipe on one side of the battery, and the return pipe is connected to the lower pipe, located on its side. reverse side. Heat loss do not exceed 5%. However, this figure will double if the connection points of the return and main pipes are swapped.

Taking into account the characteristics of your home, as well as your preferences, you can choose the most suitable type of connection. In case of serious doubts, you can seek professional advice.

Selection of heating devices (radiators)

When installing heating radiators with your own hands, it is important to choose correctly which of the many available on the market today are suitable for specific conditions. Let's look at the most interesting and popular types:

Cast iron. The advantages of such familiar heating devices include: durability, good heat transfer, unpretentiousness. However, in order to ensure good heating of the room, such batteries must have a fairly large number of sections, which are not so easy to assemble.

There are also features of fixing such batteries in houses built from different materials. For example, if the walls are made of wood, in addition to supporting fasteners, you will need a support stand.

Aluminum . Fits into interiors different styles and have good heat dissipation and low weight. Perfect for installing heating radiators with your own hands.

Steel batteries . These corrosion-resistant heating devices are characterized by good heat transfer and high level operational characteristics. Other advantages include low price and ease of installation.

Bimetallic . Such batteries look very attractive, have high heat transfer, are light in weight, and do not require special maintenance.

Aluminum heating radiator - Photo

Choosing the most suitable type of radiators you need calculate required quantity sections. It is better to find out all the necessary values ​​from the specialists of the store where you plan to purchase these devices.

ADVICE. In accordance with the good, but old rules, one section is enough for high-quality heating of 2 m2, if the ceiling height does not exceed 2.7 m. This calculation does not reflect technical characteristics modern types radiators, as well as the specific conditions that last years have changed significantly. Therefore, such a calculation can only be taken as a very rough guide.

Stage 2. Preparation of documents, purchasing the necessary parts and materials.

Heating in the apartment is part of a single centralized system and in order to drain the coolant, it will be necessary to turn off the entire house. Coordination of such actions with government agencies is prerequisite . If you try to install heating radiators with your own hands without permission, you may be subject to administrative liability in the form of a fine.

ADVICE. Design permits It is advisable to do this in advance as it will take some time for a decision to be made on your application.

To install batteries in an apartment correctly and quickly enough you will need:

• Brackets, which are selected according to the type of materials of the walls of the apartment. Their number is calculated based on the rule: at least one bracket for every meter of battery area.
• Shut-off valves. When installing heating radiators with your own hands, without having experience in performing such work, preference should be given to radiator-type products.
• Sgony. They are used to connect batteries to a heating system without welding or wiring. They must match the size of the battery and the thread of the pipes used.
• Adapters, couplings, Mayevsky cranes, tow, sealing tape etc.

Stage 3. Selecting a location and rules for installing batteries.

Do-it-yourself battery installation in an apartment - Photo

After the old batteries have been removed, you can proceed to marking the mounts for the new ones. It is very important here to know how to install the battery so that the indoor microclimate is pleasant.

There is nothing complicated: radiators are installed in places where there is a significant temperature difference - near doors and windows.

Exists whole line rules on how to properly install batteries, which should be strictly followed:

The slope of the liner elements should be at least 0.005, but it is better if this figure is twice as large. It is most advisable to measure it along the length of the pipes, based on the calculation that each meter should be tilted 0.5 cm in the direction of coolant circulation.
. The distances from the battery to other surfaces should be:
o to the floor - 6-10 cm;
o to the window sill - 5-10 cm;
o to the wall - 3-5 cm.
. Strict adherence to horizontal and vertical alignment during installation heating device, and not “by eye”, but using a level.

ADVICE. Install a heat-reflecting shield behind the radiator or cover the wall with similar material. This will improve battery performance and improve the microclimate without extra costs.

• The centers of the window opening and the battery must coincide. A slight displacement is possible - no more than 2 cm, which is not visually noticeable.
• Radiators in the same room should be placed at the same level, which is technologically advanced and looks aesthetically attractive.

Stage 4. Final. Installation of batteries and connection to the riser.

Before you begin installing radiators, you need to install brackets for what:

• Mark their placement points, which are selected taking into account the installation rules;
• Holes are drilled in the wall, where dowels are installed and fasteners are screwed in, which you purchase or make yourself. Connecting battery sections requires special tools and some skill, so it is wiser to order this work to be done in a store. You can easily assemble the installation kit yourself.

  To connect the battery to the heating system, a threaded connection is used, and then the joints are sealed using tow, and welding is also used.

  Installation of aluminum or bimetallic heating radiators video
  

  Other options are possible if, when creating heating system Metal-plastic or propylene pipes are installed.

  Now you have an idea of ​​how to install a heating battery, and if you wish, you can easily handle this work yourself.

Any heating system is a rather complex “organism” in which each of the “organs” performs a strictly assigned role. And one of the most important elements are heat exchange devices - they are entrusted with the final task of transferring thermal energy to the premises of the house. In this capacity, conventional radiators, open or open convectors can act hidden installation, water underfloor heating systems that are gaining popularity are pipe circuits laid in accordance with certain rules.

You might be interested in information about what it is

This publication will focus on heating radiators. We will not be distracted by their diversity, design and technical characteristics: our portal contains enough comprehensive information on these topics. Now we are interested in another set of questions: connecting heating radiators, wiring diagrams, installation of batteries. Correct installation of heat exchange devices, rational use the technical capabilities inherent in them are the key to the efficiency of the entire heating system. Even the most expensive modern radiator will have low returns if you do not listen to the recommendations for its installation.

What should you consider when choosing radiator piping schemes?

If you take a simplified look at most heating radiators, their hydraulic design is a fairly simple, understandable diagram. These are two horizontal collectors that are connected to each other by vertical jumper channels through which the coolant moves. This entire system is either made of metal, which provides the necessary high heat transfer (a striking example -), or is “clad” in a special casing, the design of which provides for a maximum contact area with air (for example, bimetallic radiators).

1 – Upper collector;

2 – Lower collector;

3 – Vertical channels in radiator sections;

4 – Heat exchange housing (casing) of the radiator.

Both collectors, upper and lower, have outputs on both sides (respectively, in the diagram, the upper pair B1-B2, and the lower pair B3-B4). It is clear that when connecting a radiator to the heating circuit pipes, only two of the four outputs are connected, and the remaining two are muted. And from the connection diagram, that is, from relative position The coolant supply pipes and the return outlet largely depend on the operating efficiency of the installed battery.

And first of all, when planning the installation of radiators, the owner must understand exactly what kind of heating system is operating or will be created in his house or apartment. That is, he must clearly understand where the coolant is coming from and in which direction its flow is directed.

Single pipe heating system

In multi-storey buildings, a single-pipe system is most often used. In this scheme, each radiator is, as it were, inserted into a “break” in a single pipe through which both the coolant is supplied and its discharge towards the “return” is carried out.

The coolant passes sequentially through all the radiators installed in the riser, gradually wasting heat. It is clear that in the initial section of the riser its temperature will always be higher - this must also be taken into account when planning the installation of radiators.

One more point is important here. Such a one-pipe system apartment building can be organized according to the principle of top and bottom feed.

• On the left (item 1) the top supply is shown - the coolant is transferred through a straight pipe to top point riser, and then sequentially passes through all the radiators on the floors. This means that the flow direction is from top to bottom.
• To simplify the system and save Supplies Another scheme is often organized - with bottom feed (item 2). In this case, radiators are installed in the same series on the pipe ascending to the upper floor as on the pipe going down. This means that the direction of coolant flow in these “branches” of one loop changes to the opposite. Obviously, the temperature difference in the first and last radiator of such a circuit will be even more noticeable.

It is important to understand this issue - on which pipe of such a single-pipe system is your radiator installed - the optimal insertion pattern depends on the direction of flow.

A mandatory condition for piping a radiator in a single-pipe riser is a bypass

The name “bypass,” which is not entirely clear to some, refers to a jumper connecting the pipes connecting the radiator to the riser in a single-pipe system. Why it is needed, what rules are followed when installing it - read in the special publication of our portal.

The single-pipe system is widely used in private one-story houses, at least for reasons of saving materials for its installation. In this case, it is easier for the owner to figure out the direction of the coolant flow, that is, from which side it will flow into the radiator, and from which side it will exit.

Advantages and disadvantages of a single-pipe heating system

While attractive due to the simplicity of its design, such a system is still somewhat alarming due to the difficulty of ensuring uniform heating across different radiators house wiring. Read what is important to know about how to install it yourself in a separate publication on our portal.

Two-pipe system

Already based on the name, it becomes clear that each of the radiators in such a scheme “rests” on two pipes – separately on the supply and “return”.

If you look at the two-pipe wiring diagram in multi-storey building, then the differences are immediately visible.

It is clear that the dependence of the heating temperature on the location of the radiator in the heating system is minimized. The direction of flow is determined only by the relative position of the pipes embedded in the risers. The only thing you need to know is which specific riser serves as the supply and which is the “return” - but this, as a rule, is easily determined even by the temperature of the pipe.

Some apartment residents may be misled by the presence of two risers, in which the system will not cease to be one-pipe. Look at the illustration below:

On the left, although there seem to be two risers, a single-pipe system is shown. The coolant is simply supplied from the top through one pipe. But on the right is a typical case of two different risers - supply and return.

Dependence of the efficiency of the radiator on the scheme of its insertion into the system

Why was all that said? what is posted in previous sections articles? But the fact is that from the relative position of the serving and return pipe The heat transfer of a heating radiator depends very seriously.

Scheme of inserting a radiator into the circuit	Coolant flow direction
Diagonal two-way radiator connection, with supply from above
This scheme is considered the most effective. In principle, it is this that is taken as the basis when calculating the heat transfer of a specific radiator model, that is, the power of the battery for such a connection is taken as one. The coolant, without encountering any resistance, completely passes through the upper collector, through all vertical channels, ensuring maximum heat transfer. The entire radiator heats up evenly over its entire area.
This type of scheme is one of the most common in heating systems. multi-storey buildings, as the most compact in conditions of vertical risers. It is used on risers with a top supply of coolant, as well as on return and downstream ones - with a bottom supply. Quite effective for small radiators. However, if the number of sections is large, then heating may be uneven. The kinetic energy of the flow becomes insufficient to distribute the coolant to the very end of the upper supply manifold - the liquid tends to pass along the path of least resistance, that is, through the vertical channels closest to the entrance. Thus, in the part of the battery farthest from the entrance, stagnant zones cannot be excluded, which will be much colder than the opposite ones. When calculating the system, it is usually assumed that even with optimal length battery, its overall heat transfer efficiency is reduced by 3÷5%. Well, with long radiators, such a scheme becomes ineffective or will require some optimization (this will be discussed below) /
One-sided radiator connection with top supply
The scheme is similar to the previous one, and in many ways repeats and even enhances its inherent disadvantages. Used in the same risers single pipe systems, but only in schemes with bottom supply - on the rising pipe, so the coolant is supplied from below. Losses in total heat transfer with such a connection can be even higher - up to 20÷22%. This is due to the fact that the closure of the coolant movement through the nearby vertical channels will also be facilitated by the difference in density - the hot liquid tends upward, and therefore passes more difficultly to the remote edge of the lower supply manifold of the radiator. Sometimes this is the only connection option. The losses are compensated to some extent by the fact that in the rising pipe the overall temperature level of the coolant is always higher. The scheme can be optimized by installing special devices.
Two-way connection with bottom connection of both connections
The bottom circuit, or as it is often called the “saddle” connection, is extremely popular in autonomous systems private houses due to the wide possibilities of hiding the heating circuit pipes under decorative surface floors or make them as invisible as possible. However, in terms of heat transfer, such a scheme is far from optimal, and possible efficiency losses are estimated at 10–15%. The most accessible path for the coolant in this case is the lower collector, and distribution through vertical channels is largely due to the difference in density. Eventually top part heating batteries can warm up significantly less than the lower one. There are certain methods and means to reduce this disadvantage to a minimum.
Diagonal two-way radiator connection, with supply from below
Despite the apparent similarity with the first, most optimal scheme, the difference between them is very big. Efficiency losses with such a connection reach up to 20%. This is explained quite simply. The coolant has no incentive to freely penetrate into the far section of the lower supply manifold of the radiator - due to the difference in density, it selects the vertical channels closest to the entrance to the battery. As a result, with the top heated sufficiently evenly, stagnation very often forms in the lower corner opposite the one I enter, that is, the temperature of the battery surface in this area will be lower. Such a scheme is used extremely rarely in practice - it is even difficult to imagine a situation when it is absolutely necessary to resort to it, rejecting other, more optimal solutions.

The table deliberately does not mention the following one-way connection batteries This is a controversial issue, as many radiators that offer the possibility of such an insertion have special adapters that essentially turn the bottom connection into one of the options discussed in the table. In addition, even for ordinary radiators, you can purchase additional equipment, in which the lower one-sided connection will be structurally modified to another, more optimal option.

It must be said that there are also more “exotic” insertion schemes, for example, for radiators vertical version high altitude– some models from this series require a two-way connection with both connections on top. But the very design of such batteries is thought out in such a way that the heat transfer from them is maximum.

Dependence of the heat transfer efficiency of a radiator on its installation location in the room

In addition to the connection diagram of radiators to the heating circuit pipes, the efficiency of these heat exchange devices is seriously affected by the location of their installation.

First of all, certain rules for placing a radiator on the wall in relation to adjacent structures and interior elements of the room must be observed.

The most typical location of the radiator is under window opening. In addition to the general heat transfer, the ascending convection flow creates a kind of “ thermal curtain", preventing the free penetration of colder air from the windows.

• The radiator at this location will show maximum efficiency, if its total length is about 75% of the width of the window opening. In this case, you must try to install the battery exactly in the center of the window, with a minimum deviation not exceeding 20 mm in one direction or another.
• The distance from the bottom plane of the window sill (or other obstacle located above - a shelf, horizontal wall of a niche, etc.) should be about 100 mm. In any case, it should never be less than 75% of the depth of the radiator itself. Otherwise, an insurmountable barrier to convection currents is created, and the battery efficiency drops sharply.
• The height of the lower edge of the radiator above the floor surface should also be about 100÷120 mm. With a clearance of less than 100 mm, firstly, considerable difficulties are artificially created in carrying out regular cleaning under the battery (and this is a traditional place for the accumulation of dust carried by convection air currents). And secondly, convection itself will be difficult. At the same time, “lifting” the radiator too high, with a clearance from the floor surface of 150 mm or more, is also completely useless, since this leads to uneven distribution of heat in the room: a pronounced cold layer may remain in the area bordering the floor surface air.
• Finally, the radiator must be positioned at least 20 mm away from the wall using brackets. Reducing this clearance is a violation of normal air convection, and in addition, clearly visible dust traces may soon appear on the wall.

These are guidelines that should be followed. However, for some radiators there are also manufacturer-developed recommendations for linear installation parameters - they are indicated in the product operating manuals.

It is probably unnecessary to explain that a radiator located openly on the wall will show much higher heat transfer than one that is completely or partially covered by certain interior items. Even a window sill that is too wide can already reduce heating efficiency by several percent. And if you consider that many owners cannot do without thick curtains on the windows, or, for the sake of interior design, try to cover up unsightly radiators with the help of facade decorative screens or even completely closed covers, then the calculated power of the batteries may not be enough to fully heat the room.

Heat transfer losses, depending on the features of installing the heating radiator on the walls, are shown in the table below.

Illustration	The influence of the shown placement on the heat transfer of the radiator
	The radiator is located completely open on the wall, or installed under the window sill, which covers no more than 75% of the depth of the battery. In this case, both main heat transfer paths – convection and thermal radiation – are completely preserved. Efficiency can be taken as one.
	A window sill or shelf completely covers the radiator from above. For infrared radiation this does not matter, but the convection flow already encounters a serious obstacle. Losses can be estimated at 3 ÷ 5% of the total thermal power of the battery.
	In this case, there is not a window sill or shelf on top, but the upper wall of a wall niche. At first glance, everything is the same, but the losses are already somewhat greater - up to 7 ÷ 8%, since part of the energy will be wasted on heating the very heat-intensive wall material.
	The radiator on the front part is covered with a decorative screen, but there is sufficient clearance for air convection. The loss is precisely in thermal infrared radiation, which particularly affects the efficiency of cast iron and bimetallic batteries. Heat transfer losses with this installation reach 10÷12%.
	The heating radiator is completely covered with a decorative casing on all sides. It is clear that in such a casing there are grilles or slot-like openings for air circulation, but both convection and direct thermal radiation are sharply reduced. Losses can reach up to 20 - 25% of the calculated battery power.

So, it is obvious that owners are free to change some of the nuances of installing heating radiators in order to increase the efficiency of heat transfer. However, sometimes space is so limited that you have to put up with existing conditions regarding both the location of the heating circuit pipes and the free space on the surface of the walls. Another option is that the desire to hide the batteries from view prevails over common sense, and installing screens or decorative casings is already a done deal. This means, in any case, you will have to make adjustments to the total power of the radiators in order to guarantee that the required level of heating is achieved in the room. The calculator below will help you make the appropriate adjustments correctly.

Content:

To install heating batteries in an apartment yourself, you need to choose the right type, decide on the type of wiring and connection diagram, and then follow the rules.

Do-it-yourself heating radiator installation - Photo

Defects in the heating system of an apartment can occur for many reasons, which may be impossible to eliminate without replacing the batteries. Then one of the most acceptable solutions would be to install heating radiators yourself. This is not a simple matter and requires strict adherence to technology and rules, as well as accuracy and at least minimal skills in handling simple tools, such as a level, different types of keys, drill, screwdriver, etc. Equally important is the use of quality materials and an understanding of how to install the battery.

The main stages of self-installation of heating batteries

Stage 1. Preparatory. It includes quite a lot of actions, each of which is very important.

You should start with theory, only then will replacing heating radiators in an apartment be successful, and there will be no need to immediately correct the mistakes made.

Radiator wiring methods and their connection diagrams

Methods for laying heating pipes - Photo

You should start by studying the methods of wiring batteries and choosing the most suitable of the existing options:

Monotube or sequential . It is the simplest from the point of view of its design, which is a definite plus for people who have decided to do such work for the first time and are not very versed in how to install the battery.

The coolant flows sequentially to all heating devices and returns through the same pipe. It has the following significant disadvantages:

• The final battery with such a scheme most often does not warm up enough;
• there is no possibility of controlling the temperature regime of each radiator;
• To repair or replace the battery, you will have to disconnect the entire riser.

ADVICE. Install a bypass, which will allow you to turn off only those radiators that are equipped with this device.

Two-pipe . This option is somewhat more complicated than the previous one, but it is possible to cope with it with your own hands, you just need to put in maximum effort and diligence.

A parallel connection is used here, when the coolant is supplied to each radiator and returned, already cooled, through another, called return.

Among the advantages of this option: the ability to regulate the degree of heating of the battery using thermostats, the room warms up more evenly, and repairs are much easier, since you can turn off any of the devices separately without involving the entire system in the process.

See also:

Aluminum radiators are among the leaders among all heating devices. They are distinguished by high ergonomic and thermal performance indicators. The best manufacturers The market includes ROMMER Rifar, Global, Sira Industrie...

Collector . It is not used for apartments and is also the most difficult to implement. Therefore, we will not dwell on it in detail.

battery connection diagrams in the apartment - Photo

Of no less importance is connection diagram. They are selected taking into account the structural features of the apartment, the existing heating system and some other factors. Let's look at the features of each option:

• The most common connection type is one-sided lateral . It has good heat transfer, but if multi-section radiators are used in the apartment, then insufficient heating of those sections that are located on the edge is possible. Correcting this deficiency is not at all difficult - you need to install an extension cord for the water flow.
• Lower. This method is advisable if the heating pipes pass under the baseboard or are built into the floor. The hot water supply and return pipes are located at the very bottom of the battery and are directed vertically downwards, which does not interfere with the aesthetic perception of the room. However, heat loss can reach very significant values ​​- up to 15%.
• Diagonal . This option is preferable if radiators have 12 or more sections. Here, the pipe with the hot medium is connected to the upper pipe on one side of the battery, and the return pipe is connected to the lower pipe, located on its reverse side. Heat losses do not exceed 5%. However, this figure will double if the connection points of the return and main pipes are swapped.

Taking into account the characteristics of your home, as well as your preferences, you can choose the most suitable type of connection. In case of serious doubts, you can seek professional advice.

Selection of heating devices (radiators)

When installing heating radiators with your own hands, it is important to choose correctly which of the many available on the market today are suitable for specific conditions. Let's look at the most interesting and popular types:

Cast iron. The advantages of such familiar heating devices include: durability, good heat transfer, unpretentiousness. However, in order to ensure good heating of the room, such batteries must have a fairly large number of sections, which are not so easy to assemble.

There are also features of fixing such batteries in houses built from different materials. For example, if the walls are made of wood, in addition to supporting fasteners, you will need a support stand.

Aluminum . They fit into interiors of different styles and have good heat dissipation and low weight. Perfect for installing heating radiators with your own hands.

Steel batteries . These corrosion-resistant heating devices are characterized by good heat transfer and a high level of performance characteristics. Other advantages include low price and ease of installation.

Bimetallic . Such batteries look very attractive, have high heat transfer, are light in weight, and do not require special maintenance.

Aluminum heating radiator - Photo

Choosing the most suitable type of radiators you need calculate the required number of sections. It is better to find out all the necessary values ​​from the specialists of the store where you plan to purchase these devices.

ADVICE. In accordance with the good, but old rules, one section is enough for high-quality heating of 2 m2, if the ceiling height does not exceed 2.7 m. This calculation does not reflect the technical characteristics of modern types of radiators, as well as specific conditions that have changed significantly in recent years . Therefore, such a calculation can only be taken as a very rough guide.

Stage 2. Preparation of documents, purchasing the necessary parts and materials.

Heating in an apartment is part of a single centralized system and in order to drain the coolant it will be necessary to turn off the entire house. Coordination of such actions with government agencies is prerequisite. If you try to install heating radiators with your own hands without permission, you may be subject to administrative liability in the form of a fine.

ADVICE. It is advisable to prepare permits in advance, since making a decision on your application takes some time.

To install batteries in an apartment correctly and quickly enough you will need:

• Brackets, which are selected according to the type of materials of the walls of the apartment. Their number is calculated based on the rule: at least one bracket for every meter of battery area.
• Shut-off valves. When installing heating radiators with your own hands, without having experience in performing such work, preference should be given to radiator-type products.
• Sgony. They are used to connect batteries to a heating system without welding or wiring. They must match the size of the battery and the thread of the pipes used.
• Adapters, couplings, Mayevsky cranes, tow, sealing tape etc.

Stage 3. Selecting a location and rules for installing batteries.

Do-it-yourself battery installation in an apartment - Photo

After the old batteries have been removed, you can proceed to marking the mounts for the new ones. It is very important here to know how to install the battery so that the indoor microclimate is pleasant.

There is nothing complicated: radiators are installed in places where there is a significant temperature difference - near doors and windows.

There are a number of rules on how to properly install batteries that should be strictly followed:

The slope of the liner elements should be at least 0.005, but it is better if this figure is twice as large. It is most advisable to measure it along the length of the pipes, based on the calculation that each meter should be tilted 0.5 cm in the direction of coolant circulation.
The distances from the battery to other surfaces should be:
o to the floor - 6-10 cm;
o to the window sill - 5-10 cm;
o to the wall - 3-5 cm.
Strict adherence to horizontal and vertical when installing a heating device, not “by eye”, but using a level.

ADVICE. Install a heat-reflecting shield behind the radiator or cover the wall with similar material. This will improve battery performance and improve the microclimate without extra costs.

• The centers of the window opening and the battery must coincide. A slight displacement is possible - no more than 2 cm, which is not visually noticeable.
• Radiators in the same room should be placed at the same level, which is technologically advanced and looks aesthetically attractive.

Stage 4. Final. Installation of batteries and connection to the riser.

Before you begin installing radiators, you need to install brackets for what:

• Mark their placement points, which are selected taking into account the installation rules;
• Holes are drilled in the wall, where dowels are installed and fasteners are screwed in, which you purchase or make yourself.

All that remains is to install the battery itself so that it rests tightly on each mount and connect it to the system.

Connecting battery sections requires special tools and some skill, so it is wiser to order this work to be done in a store. You can easily assemble the installation kit yourself.

To connect the battery to the heating system, a threaded connection is used, and then the joints are sealed using tow, and welding is also used.

Installation of aluminum or bimetallic heating radiators video

Other options are also possible if metal-plastic or propylene pipes are installed when creating a heating system.

Now you have an idea of ​​how to install a heating battery, and if you wish, you can easily handle this work yourself.

Independent installation of heating devices is a task for which you need to carefully prepare. The slightest violations of a process that seems simplest to an amateur often lead to negative emergency consequences. Therefore, it is advisable to entrust the replacement of batteries in city apartments to plumbers, on whose powerful shoulders the entire burden of responsibility will fall, and in a private house, installing heating batteries with your own hands can be successfully done by the owner. However, in order to avoid having to repair floors and re-glue wallpaper after a hot “flood”, you should familiarize yourself with information about the basic rules and nuances of installation.

Preparatory stage of work

The first step is to find out what type of wiring was used to organize the heating system. The owners who arranged it themselves should know whether the heating network provides heat to their country property.

Before installing a radiator, you should find out whether there is a single-pipe or two-pipe heating circuit in the house; the choice of parts and their quantity depend on the wiring diagram

Parts required for installation

Depending on the design features details are selected. For a battery built into a single-pipe heating system, it will be necessary. This element will allow, in the event of any malfunction, to turn off only the device equipped with a bypass without shutting off the entire heating system, which is extremely undesirable in frosty weather.

The connection diagram and type of radiator also determine the number of connecting and functional elements necessary for proper installation. Adapters, couplings, nipples, and corners are selected according to the diagram and dimensions.

An inexperienced performer should not get carried away with parts for installing a radiator that are unnecessarily difficult to install: 1) corners, 2) radiator stop valve, 3) “American”, 4) valve with American

The future installer will also need shut-off valves. It is recommended to choose the radiator type of shut-off valves, without getting carried away with overly complex ball valves with “American” designs, which require professional skills from the performer. Ensuring tightness without experience is problematic. To connect the battery to the pipeline, you will need fittings with threads corresponding to the size of the radiator and pipes. A sleeve will also be screwed onto the leads, which is then twisted and inserted into the battery.

With the help of squeegees, it is easier and easier to connect the radiator to the heating circuit - there is no need to weld the joints of the supply line and the pipeline

It is important to note that when purchasing for installation, you must first check whether the included brackets match the type of material from which the walls are built.

In order to be able to bleed air from the battery, it must be equipped with a Mayevsky tap. Usually it is included in the factory configuration, but if it is not available, you will definitely need to buy it.

An important part required for correct installation heating radiator - Mayevsky tap, necessary for releasing air from the device

How to calculate location?

Those wishing to install the radiator themselves should know that the sections of pipes leading to the devices must be positioned with a slight slope directed towards the direction of movement. In the case of a strictly horizontal installation, as well as in the case of a slight misalignment in the installation of the radiator, air will “collect” in steel or cast iron batteries. It will have to be constantly blown out by hand to avoid a decrease in heat transfer.

It is desirable that the central axis of the radiator coincides with the axis passing through the center of the window opening. Deviations of 2 cm are permissible, which are absolutely not visually detectable. This recommendation is not a strict requirement.

The list of strict rules:

• The supply elements to heating devices must be located so that the slope is 0.005; it is recommended to increase it to 0.01. That is, one meter of pipeline must be inclined towards the circulation by at least 0.5 cm. The angle of inclination should be calculated according to the length of the installed pipe sections.
• From the floor plane to the battery 6-10 cm or more.
• From the bottom line of the window sill to the top line of the radiator 5-10 cm.
• From the wall surface to the radiator 3-5 cm.

When installing a radiator, it is imperative that the horizontal and vertical directions be observed.

Norms and rules for installing a heating device: distances from the floor, walls, window sill

In order to increase the performance of the radiator, a specialized shield made of heat-reflecting material can be installed on the wall behind it before installation. You can simply coat the wall surface with a composition with similar properties.

For aesthetic and technological reasons, radiators in one room are located on the same level

Marking batteries with brackets

The sectional principle of selecting heating devices allows you to accurately determine the number of sections required to heat a room with specific technical specifications. Information about payment rules must be found and studied before purchasing. But according to the installation rules, 1 m² of radiator heating surface area is equipped with one bracket.

Brackets for mounting radiators: homemade on top, factory on bottom, if desired House master he will be able to make it with his own hands, by analogy with factory-made battery mounts

So here's what you need to do:

• Taking into account the above rules, we mark the installation points of the brackets.
• Before drilling holes, check all distances again.
• We insert dowels into the drilled holes, into which we then screw the fasteners.

If the markings were done correctly, the battery will “lie” tightly on all installed supports, firmly resting on each of them. Further installation of the radiator with your own hands involves connecting the device to the communication system.

Tools and Supplies

The performer will need torque wrenches with dimensions that allow high accuracy observe the dynamometer torque. Since the coolant moves through the system under pressure, insufficient tightness will lead to the appearance of a jet from the connection point. Excessive tightening will cause thread failure with similar consequences. Therefore, you should carefully follow the instructions included with each device. They indicate the value of dynamometer torques.

You will need to stock up on sealant, tow, soaked oil paint, or special sealing tape.

The installation process itself

Before starting work, it is necessary to completely shut off the heating circuit, drain the water from the system, and the pump will help remove any remaining water efficiently. Using a level, carefully check the battery hung on the supports vertically and horizontally.

• You need to unscrew all plugs from the device.
• Connect a valved bypass, which is only required for a single-pipe circuit. To connect to a two-pipe circuit, a bypass is not needed; only a squeegee with a valve connected to it is used for connection.

Using threaded connectors, we connect the battery to the system, using tow or another sealant to seal the joints (if you have experience in welding, the joints between the connectors and the pipeline can be welded).

A bypass is required for connection to a single-pipe circuit - connection diagram: 1 - tee for metal-plastic pipes; 2 - direct control valve; 3 - direct shut-off valve; 4 - adapter for metal-plastic pipes; 5 - rotating valve for air release

It is important to note that until the installation of the devices and devices is completed, there is no need to remove the packaging shell.

Installation is complete, but more is needed. To do this, you will need to call a plumber. Both his experience and the device will be useful, which does not make sense to buy for the sake of installing several batteries.

Specifics of installing a cast iron radiator

No matter how intensively innovative battery manufacturers promote their aesthetically pleasing ultra-light aluminum and bimetallic products, many cast iron adherents remain. The material, which is not pleasing with grace, retains heat for an incredibly long time, gradually transferring it to the heated space. Those wishing to learn how to properly install a heating radiator made of heat-intensive cast iron should familiarize themselves with the specific design features of the device and its installation:

• Before installation, the cast iron battery will need to be unscrewed, the nipples adjusted, and then the device reassembled. Disassembly is carried out on a workbench, using a pair of radiator keys inserted into the nipple holes. To increase the applied force and to secure it, a crowbar is inserted into the eye of the key intended for unscrewing the lower nipple. To avoid distortion, both nipples located at the top and bottom are unscrewed at the same time. It is more convenient to do the work together. Unscrewing cast iron radiator, pay attention to the thread direction. WITH different sides radiator made of cast iron threads with opposite direction. Unfolded? Remove the section.
• By analogy, you need to screw together all the sections, and then group them in strict reverse order into a single device with the number of sections required to heat a particular room. The assembled battery must be tested and, if a leak is detected, adjusted to problem area nipple.
• Wall-mounted cast iron batteries can be fixed to brick and foam concrete walls. Walls made of wood will not support the weight, so the owner wooden house Radiators with special floor supports will be needed. However, supporting fasteners must also be installed on the walls.
• Since private houses mostly have single-pipe heating, a bypass is installed. The connection diagram must include a Mayevsky tap and corresponding shut-off valves.

Connection to the pipeline is made using threaded fittings. IN wooden buildings welding machine It's better not to use it.

Technology for unscrewing and assembling cast iron batteries: a – nipples capture the threads of sections (2-3 threads); b – tighten the nipples, join the sections; c – install the third section; d – two radiators are grouped

The difference in the schemes for attaching a cast iron battery to walls made of different building materials:
A) wooden wall: 1) support bar, 2) stand
b) brick wall: 1) window sill, 2) niche, 3) brackets

Whether or not it is worth saving on installing batteries is a personal matter for the owner. Essentially, there is not a single particularly difficult moment in the installation technology. By strictly following the sequence, knowing the rules, having studied the information on how to install a heating radiator, you can safely get down to business with hands that confidently hold radiator, torque wrenches and other tools. True, confidence alone will not be enough to achieve success. Strict adherence to installation rules and the formation of impeccable tightness, guaranteeing a complete absence of leaks, will definitely help.