Polypropylene pipes are used in the installation of water supply systems, for the installation of irrigation systems and for heating. Popularity of the material and various areas use is determined by its characteristics: strength, durability, ease of connection. An important argument in favor polypropylene pipes their price has become significantly lower than that of metal-plastic or metal analogues.

The service life of a plastic pipeline with cold water is 50 years; such an impressive figure makes it necessary to replace outdated lines with this type of pipeline. The tightness of joints is the most important factor for any pipeline, therefore the viability of the system depends on the quality of installation. In the article we will talk about how to connect polypropylene pipes with metal, polyethylene, steel, and also consider various options welding

Materials and tools

If you decide to save on installation services and do it yourself, then you need to buy or rent a special soldering iron with attachments. In addition to this you will need:

• tape measure and marker for marking;
• slicing scissors plastic pipes;
• cleaning for pipes.

There are several types of polypropylene pipes, which differ in their area of ​​use:

1. PN 10, 16 – used for laying cold water pipes;
2. PN 20 - universal pipes with thick walls, they can withstand hot water at temperatures up to 80ºC, therefore they are suitable for heating installations;
3. PN 25 is a composite pipe with a metal or nylon layer, which is peeled off during soldering. It is used for heating systems, the final heating temperature is 95°C.

A distinctive characteristic of connecting polypropylene pipes is the absence of joints directly between the pipes. If their diameter is less than 50 mm, all parts can be connected with fittings for various purposes:

• couplings - connect sections of the same diameter;
• crosses - used to create branches;
• plugs - seal the end of the pipe;
• adapters - used to connect pipes of different diameters;
• union fittings - connect to flexible hoses.

How to operate a welding machine

The principle of connecting a pipeline is to heat the elements and quickly connect them. Household Appliances for welding pipes have a power of up to 1 kW. It is enough to quickly and efficiently heat the material, but for industrial purposes more powerful and expensive devices are used. The soldering iron comes with attachments that correspond to the diameter of various pipes. The pipe is heated from the outside, and the fitting from the inside.

The operation of the soldering iron begins with connecting it to the network and setting the desired heating temperature, depending on the diameter of the plastic pipes being welded. The average value is 250–270°C. Such heat requires caution, touching a hot part will cause a burn; for safety reasons, you should wear gloves.

Soldering process

To cut pipes, use a hacksaw or sharp scissors that do not deform the plastic. The incision is made at a right angle. If burrs appear on the end, they are carefully cleaned off. After cutting, the soldering depth is marked. You need to measure the section of pipe that will fit into the tee or coupling and mark a line with a marker. The size of this section depends on the diameter of the pipes; the larger it is, the greater the immersion in the connecting element.

If you have to work with reinforced pipes, the algorithm of actions changes. Must be cleaned before soldering upper layer pipes consisting of aluminum foil, basalt or nylon fiber. A special tool is designed to remove the required layer size.

Careful removal of the foil is very important; a small amount of material remaining on the pipe will ruin the tightness of the soldering.

A soldering iron with nozzles selected according to the diameter of the pipes is installed on a flat and durable surface. On both sides, a pipe and a fitting are simultaneously put on the heated nozzle, deepening to the intended line. The heating time of the plastic depends on the size of the pipes: for 20 mm, 6 seconds are enough, and for 32 mm, 8 seconds are required. After maintaining a set period of time, the elements are removed and firmly fixed into each other, while turning movements must not be made. For strong adhesion of the joint it will take from 4 to 10 seconds, during which time the polypropylene will harden and form a permanent connection.

Failure to comply with the recommended heating time leads to the formation of leaks - in case of insufficient heating or sealing of the internal space - in case of excessive overheating. If a melt appears, you should not try to remove it immediately; the melted plastic will become more deformed. You need to wait until it cools and cut off the excess.

Without experience, in order to understand how to solder pipes correctly, you can make several training connections. It is convenient to work with short connections by placing welding machine on the table, in this position you can perform all possible job, and joining a partially laid highway is more difficult. The soldering iron nozzle is put on a fixed polypropylene pipe, and a tee is inserted into the second part, while the device is supported by weight. When making a highway, you need to monitor the order of the connections being made. Try to avoid docking hard to reach places where it will be difficult to use a soldering iron.

It is important to keep the material clean and dry, because dirt and moisture reduce the quality of the pipe connection. Not even a large number of moisture deforms the material when heated. The chemical composition of pipes from different manufacturers may not be the same, this will lead to leaky joints. It is necessary to buy all the material - pipes and fittings - from one manufacturer.

The temperature in the room where polypropylene is installed should not fall below +5°C.

Crimp connection method

Pipeline joining by soldering is reliable and durable, it is impossible to disassemble it, and sometimes this is exactly what is required for repairs. In addition, it is not always possible to purchase or borrow a welding machine; in such cases, they use the method of connecting polypropylene pipes without soldering. For this, fittings with threads and a clamping ring are used. They are called collet or crimp, such a connection can withstand a pressure of sixteen atmospheres.

For a mechanical connection, you need to purchase several additional parts: angles designed for joining of different diameters, a tee, soldered and combined couplings, having external and internal threads, plugs, adapters with external thread, elbows and tees with a union nut, Ball Valves, various fittings with factory threads.

To ensure tightness, joints and seals are generously lubricated with silicone.

To work, you will need a crimp wrench, which can be purchased at the same time as the fittings. Having cut off the required part of the pipe, firmly insert it into the fitting, wrap the thread of the element with thread to seal it and tighten the ferrule and nut, completely tightening it with a wrench. This connection method takes much longer than welding, but it is convenient for connecting polypropylene pipes to radiators.

Joining a steel pipe with a polypropylene pipe

When installing heating or plumbing, there are areas where metal and plastic need to be joined. The connection between a polypropylene pipe and a metal pipe occurs using special adapters. This fitting has a smooth plastic hole on one side and a threaded metal insert on the other. The polypropylene pipe is connected by welding, and the metal pipe is screwed with a wrench. The resulting joint does not have the strength of a welded joint, but will serve for a long time.

After complete installation the system needs to conduct a test run of water to check the tightness of all connection points of pipes and other elements. If threaded connections are leaking, they must be tightened.

Self-installation of plumbing or heating from polypropylene pipes is a completely doable task. To implement it, you must strictly follow the instructions for using the plastic welding machine and installation technology. To better understand all the nuances of the process, you should watch a video in which experienced installers share their experience.

To connect such pipes you need to use special fittings. Such a connection is necessary in cases where water was introduced into the house using HDPE pipes, and further distribution of water inside the house is carried out using polypropylene pipes. So, we can distinguish 2 types of connections:

1. In the first case, you attach a threaded coupling to the HDPE pipe, where there will be a clamp connection on one side, and a similar coupling on the polypropylene one. It’s just that there will be a solder joint on one side, and a threaded joint on the other. In both cases, FUM tape or tow is used for threading to seal the joint and avoid leaks.
2. In another case, a flange connection is used. A rubber seal is installed between the flanges. The flanges are bolted together.

High-quality joining of polypropylene pipes is achieved by taking into account the thickness of their walls.

Even the connection of polypropylene pipes with metal ones will be reliable and durable with this approach.

Connection methods

Thin-walled pipes are connected with threads:

• pipes PN 10 for cold water (+20°) or heated floors (+45°);
• pipes PN 16 used to supply cold water at high pressure or in heating pipelines with low pressure.

Welding is the most quality option For:

• universal pipes PN 20– they can withstand water temperatures of +80°. Their walls are much thicker than the previous two.
• pipes PN 25, . These pipes can withstand water temperatures of +95°.

The popularity of polypropylene pipes lies in the simplicity of their connections, accessible to people even without special training. Therefore, the question of how to connect polypropylene pipes is most often solved independently.

Connections can be mechanical, detachable, with threads, or permanent, by welding..

Threaded connections

For such a connection you need threaded fittings, but you can’t do it yourself. How to connect polypropylene pipes hermetically and forever?

Using ordinary Teflon tape, as well as a sealant, they will make the joint strong and reliable.

Polypropylene pipes: how to connect using fittings in the system? Installation of the universal system is carried out both by welding and mechanically, having previously cut off the top layer, as well as the aluminum layer in the couplings.

Fittings required for threaded connections

• Soldered couplings.
• Angles 45°; 90° for joining pipes of any diameter.
• Triple elbow, tee for soldering pipes of the same diameter.
• Plugs.
• Crosses.
• Welded saddle for pipeline branching.
• Combined couplings with internal and external threads, with union nuts.
• Adapter with external DG thread.
• 90° angles with union nut, internal and external threads, union nut.
• Combined tees, equipped with union nuts and internal - external threads.
• Combination angles, fastening mixers and other devices.
• The water outlet is passable.
• Brazed ball valves, straight and angle (with American connection).
• Other fittings are made of polypropylene only with factory threads.

Installation of pipes from different materials

How to connect a metal pipe to a polypropylene pipe using special transition fittings: on one side with a coupling for soldering into a polypropylene pipe, and on the other side with.

A collapsible connection is also used - American with a coupling with a metal insert and a union nut, as well as a polypropylene fitting with a union nut.

Threaded connections plastic - metal

For metal-plastic transition connections, parts with a nickel-plated brass insert are used, which is tightened with tightening wrenches.

But on sanitary equipment, adapters with plastic threads are not used.

How to connect polypropylene pipes absolutely tightly: Teflon thread or tape, as well as sealing paste will provide high-quality sealing when connecting with threads.

We connect pipes using crimp fittings, press fittings or self-locking push fittings using the latest Belgian development.

• For compression fittings only need 2 wrench . Press fittings are tighter and more reliable, but installation requires a special press tool.
• For push fittings you only need a cutter and a calibrator, and the PVDF material is environmentally friendly and not subject to corrosion, while three EPDM rings are the most reliable seals.
  Therefore, the question: “Polypropylene pipes - how to connect?” is always resolved in favor of push fittings.

Welded joints

Welded joints are permanent. Technology for connecting polypropylene pipes: when melting, the macromolecules of one part will move to another (mutual diffusion).

Melting from heating by an electric welding machine of parts with the same properties organically connects them.

Necessary tool

• Soldering iron for polypropylene pipes and a hacksaw for metal or scissors, tape measure.
• You will also need polypropylene pipes and fittings: connecting couplings for polypropylene pipes, corners, taps, fum tape.
• The welding apparatus consists of the heating element itself and welding nozzles from 16 to 40 mm in diameter. When its indicator goes out, it means that the desired temperature of +260 degrees has been reached (in 10 - 15 minutes). At sub-zero air temperatures, welding is not carried out.
• For pipes with a diameter of less than 63 mm, socket welding is used.
• For pipes with a diameter of more than 63 mm, butt welding is suitable and does not require any additional parts.

Socket welding procedure

• We cut the pipes at right angles.
• Apply a mark – socket depth + 2 mm

• We begin connecting polypropylene pipes by heating the parts with a heating device.
• Then we connect the parts.
• The connection of polypropylene with an aluminum layer is possible through perforated holes. This greatly increases the strength of PN 25 pipes.
• Thanks to fittings with brass and chrome inserts, the pipes are well connected to steel parts and plumbing fixtures. Shaver is a tool for stripping reinforced pipes.

How to connect polypropylene pipes for external sewerage?

By using butt welding, which is possible if the wall thickness is over 4 mm.

• First, we trim the welding points until they are parallel.
• We heat it up and use centering devices to ensure welding accuracy.

Important! When welding, we ventilate the room: polypropylene smokes and releases water vapor and carbon dioxide.

By understanding how polypropylene pipes are connected and following safety measures, you can quickly and efficiently make any connection.

Any modern housing, be it a private mansion or city ​​apartment, must be equipped with a variety of engineering communications. And if so, then either during the construction process, or during repairs or reconstruction, sooner or later the owners will have to face the problem of installing or replacing pipes and a heating system. Few people are now seduced by labor-intensive and rather complex installation. steel pipes VGP. They are expensive in themselves and require considerable additional costs for transportation, and their processing and connection are associated with specific operations that not everyone can do - cutting, bending, electric or gas welding, thread cutting, etc. Plus, a special approach is required to “packing” each threaded connection so that the connecting unit turns out to be of high quality, without leaks.

It's good that modern technologies allow you to avoid all this hassle by using polypropylene pipes. At making the right choice materials and high-quality installation, plumbing and heating circuits are practically in no way inferior to steel ones, and in many respects they are far superior to them. In addition, the soldering of polypropylene pipes itself is not so complicated; instructions for its implementation will be discussed in this publication.

Not all polypropylene pipes are the same

Before you start considering the installation instructions for polypropylene pipes, it makes sense to give at least general concept about this material, in particular about its varieties and areas of application. Choosing pipes based on the principles of “which ones are cheaper” or “which ones were available” is completely unacceptable. The consequences for an unscrupulous home craftsman can be very sad - from deformation of the laid pipeline to its rupture or the appearance of leaks in connecting nodes.

There is no need to explain the difference in diameter - in different systems and in their different sections their sizes are used, which are predetermined by hydraulic calculations. The range of diameters, from 16 to 110 mm, allows you to almost completely provide everything possible options. Moreover, practice shows that for a house or apartment, an assortment of up to 40 mm is usually sufficient, much less often – up to 50 ÷ 63 mm. Larger diameter pipes are, rather, main pipes, and they have specific installation features, but a home craftsman is unlikely to have to deal with this.

The difference in color between some types of pipes may immediately be apparent. This is what you should pay least attention to - white, green, grayish and other walls - they don’t say anything. Apparently, this is simply a decision by manufacturers to somehow distinguish their products from the general background. By the way, for heating circuits White color will definitely be preferable, since the pipeline will unobtrusively fit into any interior without creating a disharmonious color “spot”.

But colored stripes, if they exist, already carry an informative load that is intuitively understandable to everyone. The blue stripe means the pipe is designed exclusively for cold water supply, the red stripe means it can withstand elevated temperatures. However, such color marking (which, by the way, very often does not exist at all) is only very approximate and does not fully reveal the operational capabilities of a particular pipe. It helps you simply not to make mistakes during the installation of the system. By the way, the longitudinal line is also good because it becomes good reference when joining mating parts during soldering.

Much more information is provided by alphanumeric markings, which are usually printed on the outer wall. This is where it’s worth being more careful.

The international abbreviation for polypropylene is PPR. There are several types of material, and you can find the designations PPRC, PP-N, PP-B, PP-3 and others. But in order not to completely confuse the consumer, there is a clearer gradation of pipes - by type, depending on the permissible pressure of the pumped liquid and its temperature. There are four such types in total: PN-10, PN-16, PN-20, PN-25. In order not to talk at length about each of them, you can give a plate that characterizes the operational capabilities and scope of application of the pipes.

polypropylene pipes

Type of polypropylene pipes	Working pressure (nominal)		Pipe Applications
	MPa	technical atmospheres, bar
PN-10	1.0	10.2	Cold water supply. As an exception - supply lines to the contours of the water-heated floor, with maximum operating temperature coolant up to 45 °C. The material is the most affordable - due to its not particularly outstanding physical, technical and operational parameters.
PN-16	1.6	16.3	The most popular option for autonomous cold and hot water supply systems, with an operating temperature of no more than 60˚C, a pressure of no higher than 1.6 MPa.
PN-20	2.0	20.4	Cold and hot autonomous or central water supply. Can be used in autonomous systems heating, where there is guaranteed to be no water hammer. The coolant temperature should not exceed 80 ˚С.
PN-25	2.5	25.5	Hot centralized water supply, heating systems with coolant temperatures up to 90÷95˚С, including central ones. The most durable, but also the most expensive type of pipe.

Of course, in order for the pipe to withstand high blood pressure and temperature, it should have thicker walls. The value of the wall thickness and, accordingly, the nominal diameter of polypropylene pipes various types– in the table below:

Pipe outer diameter, mm	Type of polypropylene pipes
	PN-10		PN-16		PN-20		PN-25
	Passage diameter, mm	Wall thickness, mm	Passage diameter, mm	Wall thickness, mm	Passage diameter, mm	Wall thickness, mm	Passage diameter, mm	Wall thickness, mm
16	-	-	11.6	2.2	10.6	2.7	-	-
20	16.2	1.9	14.4	2.8	13.2	3.4	13.2	3.4
25	20.5	2.3	18	3.5	16.6	4.2	16.6	4.2
32	26	3	23	4.4	21.2	5.4	21.2	3
40	32.6	3.7	28.8	5.5	26.6	6.7	26.6	3.7
50	40.8	4.6	36.2	6.9	33.2	8.4	33.2	4.6
63	51.4	5.8	45.6	8.4	42	10.5	42	5.8
75	61.2	6.9	54.2	10.3	50	12.5	50	6.9
90	73.6	8.2	65	12.3	60	15	-	-
110	90	10	79.6	15.1	73.2	18.4	-	-

With all the advantages of polypropylene, it also has a rather significant drawback - very significant linear expansion when heated. If for cold pipelines located inside a building this is not so significant, then for hot water supply pipes or heating circuits this feature can lead to sagging, sagging of long sections, deformation of complex junctions, and the occurrence of internal stresses in the body of the pipe, shortening its service life.

To minimize the effect of thermal expansion, pipe reinforcement is used. It can be aluminum or fiberglass.

The fiberglass reinforcing belt is always located approximately in the center of the pipe wall thickness, and does not in any way affect the soldering technology.

But with aluminum it’s a little more complicated. There are two types of such reinforcement. In one case, the foil layer is located in close proximity to the outer wall of the pipe (in the illustration - bottom left). Another option is that the reinforcing belt runs approximately in the center of the wall. For each type of such reinforcement, there are special technological installation nuances, which will be discussed below.

Both fiberglass and aluminum reinforcement significantly reduce the thermal linear expansion of polypropylene pipes. In addition, the aluminum layer performs another function: it becomes a barrier against oxygen diffusion - the penetration of oxygen molecules from the air through the walls of the pipe into the coolant.

The penetration of oxygen into the liquid coolant medium can cause a number of negative consequences, among which the main ones are increased gas formation and activation of corrosion processes, which is especially dangerous for metal parts of boiler equipment. The reinforcing layer can greatly reduce this effect, which is why such pipes are most often used specifically for heating circuits. IN water supply systems It is quite possible to get by with fiberglass reinforcement, which does not have a significant effect on diffusion.

Types of polypropylene pipes	Designation	Thermal expansion coefficient, m×10 ⁻⁴ /˚С	Oxygen diffusion indicators, mg/m²× 24 hours
Single layer pipes:
	PPR	1.8	900
Multilayer pipes:
Polypropylene, glass fiber reinforced.	PPR-GF-PPR	0.35	900
Polypropylene, reinforced with aluminum.	PPR-AL-PPR	0.26	0

The illustration below shows an example of marking a polypropylene pipe:

1 – in the first place is usually the name of the manufacturer, the name of the pipe model or its article number.

2 – material of manufacture and structure of the pipe. In this case, it is single-layer polypropylene. Pipes with fiberglass reinforcement are usually marked PPR-FG-PPR, with aluminum – PPR-AL-PPR.

Reinforced pipes with an outer polypropylene layer and an inner wall made of cross-linked polyethylene may be found. They will have a designation such as PPR-AL-PEX or PPR-AL-PERT. This does not affect the soldering technology, since the inner layer does not take part in it.

3 – standard pipe dimensional coefficient, equal to the ratio of the outer diameter to the wall thickness.

4 – nominal values ​​of outer diameter and wall thickness.

5 – the type of pipe mentioned above according to the nominal operating pressure.

6 – list international standards, to which the product corresponds.

Pipes are usually sold in standard lengths of 4 or 2 meters. Majority retail outlets practices selling with cuts in multiples of 1 meter.

Numerous components are available for sale for all pipes - threaded fittings for transition to another type of pipe, with external or internal threads or with an American union nut, couplings, tees, diameter transitions, bends at 90 and 45 degree angles, plugs, bypass loops , compensators and others necessary details. In addition, it is possible to purchase taps, valves, manifolds, and “oblique” coarse water filters designed for direct soldering into polypropylene pipework.

In short, such diversity allows you to choose the most convenient diagram assembling a system of almost any degree of complexity. The cost of most of these parts is very low, which allows you to purchase them with a certain reserve, at least in order to conduct a small training session before starting practical installation - so to speak, “get your hands on it.”

Methods for connecting polypropylene pipes

Polypropylene is a thermoplastic polymer - when heated, its structure begins to soften, and when two fragments uniformly heated to a certain temperature are connected, mutual diffusion occurs, or rather, even polyfusion, that is, interpenetration of the material. When cooling, the properties of polypropylene do not change, and with a high-quality connection - ensuring optimal heating and the required degree of compression, after reverse polymerization there should be no boundary as such - a completely monolithic assembly is obtained.

It is on this property that the main technological methods connections of polypropylene pipes - this method is often called polyfusion welding.

Such welding (soldering) can be carried out using a socket or butt method.

• Sleeve welding is precisely the technology that is most often used when installing water pipes or heating circuits in a house or apartment. It is designed for small and medium diameter pipes, up to 63 mm.

Its meaning is that any connecting unit involves the use of two parts - the pipe itself and the coupling, the inner diameter of which is slightly smaller than the outer diameter of the pipe. That is, in a normal, “cold” form, the parts cannot be paired. The coupling can be not only, forgive the tautology, itself coupling, but also the installation area of ​​a tee, elbow, tap, threaded fitting and other components.

The principle of such welding is shown in the diagrams below.

The pipe (item 1) and the coupling or any other connecting element (item 2) are simultaneously placed on the heating elements of the welding machine.

A pair of the required diameter is pre-installed coaxially on the working heater itself, consisting of a metal coupling (item 4), into which the pipe will be inserted, and a mandrel (item 5), onto which the necessary connecting element is placed.

During the warm-up period outer surface pipe and the inner coupling, a belt of molten polypropylene is formed, approximately the same width and depth (item 6). It is important to choose the right heating time so that the melting process does not penetrate the entire pipe wall.

Both parts are simultaneously removed from the heater and coaxially, with force, connected to each other. The melted plastic outer layer of polypropylene will allow the pipe to fit tightly into the coupling until it stops, the length of the heated section.

At this stage, the process of polyfusion, cooling and polymerization occurs. The result is a reliable connection, which, although shown in the diagram as a shaded area (item 7), in reality, if you look at the section, it is not visible at all - it is practically a monolithic wall.

• Butt welding is performed slightly differently.

One of the main differences is that the parts that are joined must be the same in inner and outer diameter.

The first step is to fine-tune the ends to ensure they fit perfectly together.

The pipes are pressed on both sides against a trimmer - a rotating disk (pos. 2) with precisely aligned knives (pos. 3)

The pipes are again pressed towards the center, and at the ends, over the entire wall thickness, areas of polypropylene melting are formed (item 5).

And, by analogy with the previous case, as the weld cools, it polymerizes, creating a reliable connection between the two pipes.

The principle seems simple, but this is only at first glance. With this welding technology, precise alignment of the mating parts is of decisive importance. In addition, during sleeve welding, the required degree of compression of the mating molten sections is ensured to a greater extent by the difference in the diameters of the parts. In this case, a significant external force is required, directed strictly along the axis of the connected pipes. All these conditions can only be met when using a special, rather complex machine-type apparatus.

There are many machines for butt welding, but almost all of them have a powerful frame with guides and clamps for clamping pipes under various diameters– to ensure the alignment of the connection, removable or tilting end trimmer and heater, a mechanism for creating the required compression – manual, hydraulic, electric, etc.

This technology is used, as a rule, only by professionals when laying main pipes, and the likelihood of encountering it at the household level is almost zero.

There is also a “cold” welding method - using glue based on a strong organic solvent. The point is that when treated with this composition, the surface layers of the polymer soften. The parts can be connected in the desired position at this time, and since solvents are usually highly volatile, they evaporate quickly. then the reverse polymerization process begins quite quickly.

This technology is more suitable for polyvinyl chloride (PVC) pipes that do not have proper thermoplasticity. In addition, this type of connection method has, perhaps, more disadvantages and limitations in use than advantages, so it is not in particular demand, especially since there is a simple and accessible technology for sleeve polyfusion welding.

What is required for installation work

So, in the future we will consider exclusively socket polyfusion welding (soldering). To cope with this task yourself, you need to prepare a number of tools and accessories.

• First of all, this is, of course, a machine for welding polypropylene pipes. Such a tool is not so expensive, and many zealous owners already have it in their home “arsenal”.

The welding machine must be supplied with coupling-mandrel kits of the required diameters. Most devices allow you to simultaneously place two, and sometimes three pairs of working nozzles on their heating element, which allows you to install a system that uses pipes of different diameters without interruptions for replacement.

If you don’t have your own device, and circumstances currently do not allow you to purchase one, then many stores practice short-term rental with a daily fee - you can take advantage of this opportunity.

If you decide to buy a machine for welding polypropylene pipes...

All welding machines are designed approximately the same and work on a similar principle, but they also have certain differences in terms of layout and functionality. Helpful information for those who have decided to make such a purchase, it is posted in an article on our portal, specifically dedicated.

In the text you may find the definition of a pipe soldering machine - but this is just a “play on words”. There is no difference between these concepts in this case.

• To cut the pipe, special scissors are required. Moreover, they must be sharpened, with a working ratchet mechanism that ensures a smooth cut. The blade should not be jagged or bent.

Of course, you can cut the pipe with a hacksaw, just a metal blade, or even a grinder, but this is absolutely not a professional approach, since the required accuracy and evenness of the cut cannot be achieved with such tools.

machine for welding polypropylene pipes

• It is necessary to prepare a marking tool - a tape measure, a ruler, a construction square, a marker or a pencil. To correctly place the pipes, you have to resort to a level.
• If you plan to solder polypropylene pipes with aluminum reinforcement, then additional tools are required.

- if the pipe has external reinforcement, then a shaver will be required to clean the aluminum layer at the weld penetration site.

— if the aluminum reinforced layer is located deep in the thickness of the wall, then the pipe still requires preliminary preparation, but in this case a trimmer is already used.

A trimmer is often similar in appearance to a shaver, but there is a difference between them - it lies in the arrangement of the knives. With a shaver, the cut goes tangentially parallel to the axis of the pipe, and with a trimmer, as even their names make clear, the knife processes the end and removes a small chamfer.

Read a useful article, and also familiarize yourself with the varieties and selection criteria on our portal.

We will dwell on this point in more detail when considering pipe soldering technology.

• Many people overlook this, but the welded sections of pipes and couplings must be cleaned of dirt, dust, moisture, and then degreased. This means you need to prepare a clean rag and an alcohol-containing solvent (for example, regular ethyl or isopropyl alcohol).

But you should not use solvents based on acetone, esters, or hydrocarbons, since polypropylene is not resistant to them, and the walls may melt

• It is also necessary to take care of protecting your hands. They will have to work in close proximity to the heating element of the device, and getting a serious burn is as easy as shelling pears.

Suede work gloves are best suited for this task - they practically do not restrict movement, will not begin to smolder from contact with a hot heater, and will reliably protect your hands.

And one more important warning. Majority installation work very often it can be carried out not locally, but, for example, on a workbench in a workshop - some devices even have special brackets with clamps for secure fixation on the table. This is convenient in the sense that the assembled unit is then quickly installed, for example, in cramped and uncomfortable conditions of a bathtub or toilet.

In any case, wherever soldering is carried out, it is necessary to provide highly effective ventilation. When polypropylene is heated, a gas with a pungent odor is released. The smell is not the worst thing - with prolonged inhalation, serious intoxication can occur. Believe me, I tested it on my own skin. The author of these lines spent a day with a temperature of 39° after seven hours of work in a fairly spacious combined bathroom, with a ventilation vent that seemed to work well. Don't repeat the mistakes!

How to solder polypropylene pipes

General technological methods for welding polypropylene pipes

• First of all, a novice master must have a clear idea of ​​what he is going to mount. A detailed diagram-drawing must be prepared, with dimensions and specific details indicated - the same “document” will become the basis for purchasing the required number of pipes and components.
• If conditions permit, for example, there is no finishing in the room where the installation will be carried out, then it is best to transfer the diagram directly to the walls - it will be more clear, and you can measure the required lengths of pipes literally on the spot.

The key to success is to try to complete the maximum possible number of knots in a comfortable working position, on a workbench. Working with a soldering machine directly on site, and even alone, without an assistant, is an extremely difficult task, and it is very easy to make an error. It is clear that such operations cannot be completely avoided, but their number should be reduced to the possible minimum.

• The soldering machine is getting ready for use. Working pairs - couplings and mandrels of the required diameters for operation - are put on its heater and tightened with a screw. If you plan to work with one type of pipe, then there is no need to be clever - put on one pair, as close as possible to the end of the heater.

There are welding machines with a cylindrical heating element - it has a slightly different fastening of the working elements, like a clamp. But figuring this out is not difficult.

• It will be much more convenient to work if the device is rigidly fixed to work surface workbench. It’s great if the design provides a clamp-type screw for fastening to the edge of the tabletop. But even with a conventional device, you can try to come up with some kind of fixation. For example, if the surface allows, the legs of the stand are screwed to the workbench with self-tapping screws.

Even with the stand fixed, the device can “wiggle” in it - there will definitely be some play. Here, too, you can provide your own fastening - drill a hole and screw in a self-tapping screw. When you need a soldering iron for remote work, removing this mount is a matter of a few seconds.

• The soldering iron is connected to the network. If it has temperature control, then it is set to approximately 260 °C - this is optimal temperature for working with polypropylene. You should not listen to anyone that for the 20th pipe you need 260 degrees, for the 25th - already 270, and so on - increasing. The temperature is the same, the heating time of the mating parts simply changes. In any case, those tables that the manufacturer provides in the product data sheet, and which will be posted below in this article, are designed for exactly this level of heating.
• Usually the soldering iron has a light indicator. A lit red light indicates that the heating element is working. Green – the device has reached operating mode.

However, many models have their own display features. Some devices even have a digital display with temperature indication. In any case, the device will “let you know” that it has warmed up to the required level.

• The mating parts are prepared for work - the required piece of pipe is cut off, the connecting element is selected according to the installation diagram.

• Not many people do this, and yet the technology requires mandatory cleaning of the connection area from possible dirt and dust, and degreasing. In addition, even the slightest drops of water or a wet surface are completely unacceptable - water vapor can enter the melt layer, create a porous structure there, and this connecting unit risks leaking sooner or later.
• The next step is to mark the connection. On the pipe it is necessary to measure from the end and mark the length of the penetration belt with a pencil (marker). It is up to this mark that the pipe will be inserted into the heating coupling, and then into the connecting piece. Each diameter has its own value - it will be indicated in the table below.

The second mark is applied if the relative position of the mating parts is important. For example, on one side of a pipe section a 90° bend has already been welded, and on the other side it is necessary to mount, say, a tee, but so that its central channel is located at an angle to the bend relative to the axis. To do this, first accurately determine the position of the parts, and then apply a mark across the border, along both sides.

There won’t be much time spent choosing the correct position during soldering, and such a “trick” will help accurately position the mating parts.

• The next step is directly soldering the connection. It, in turn, also includes several phases:

— From both sides, the pipe is simultaneously inserted into the soldering iron coupling, and the connecting element is put on the mandrel. The pipe must go up to the mark made, the connecting element - all the way.

— After the pipe and connecting element are inserted completely, the warm-up time begins. Each diameter has its own optimal time which should be followed.

— Once the time has expired, both parts are removed from the heating elements. The master has literally a few seconds to give the parts the correct position and, of course, alignment, insert one into the other with force and bring it to the same mark. Light adjustments, without turning relative to the axis, are allowed only for one to two seconds.

— In this position, the parts must be held, without the slightest displacement, for the specified fixation period.

— After this, the assembled unit should not experience any load during the established period of cooling and polymerization of polypropylene. And only then can it be considered ready

Now - about the main parameters that must be adhered to during installation. For ease of perception, they are summarized in a table:

The name of indicators	Pipe diameter, mm
	16	20	25	32	40	50	63
Length of the pipe section to be welded, mm	13	14	16	18	20	23	26
Heating time, seconds	5	5	7	8	12	12	24
Time for rearrangement and connection, seconds	4	4	4	6	6	6	8
Time to fix the connection, seconds	6	6	10	10	20	20	30
Time for cooling and polymerization of the unit, minutes	2	2	2	4	4	4	6
Notes: - If thin-walled pipes of type PN10 are welded, then the heating period of the pipe itself is halved, but the heating time of the connecting part remains the same as indicated in the table. - If work is carried out outdoors or in a cold room at a temperature below +5°C, then the warm-up period is increased by 50%.

There can be no question of reducing the set warm-up time (except for the case mentioned in the note to the table) - quality connection It won’t work, and the knot will definitely leak over time. But regarding some slight increase, the masters do not have a unified view. The motivation here is that pipes from different manufacturers may differ slightly in material, that is, harder or, conversely, soft polypropylene is found. But the masters have accumulated experience and precise knowledge of the material used, but for a beginner, the recommended indicators should still be taken as a basis.

Good advice - when buying pipes and components - take a small supply of the cheapest connecting elements and conduct an experiment - training. You can prepare a few pieces of pipe and perform test soldering.

With high-quality soldering, a neat collar about 1 mm high is created inside the connecting node around the circumference, which will not interfere with the free passage of water. A neat collar will also be formed on the outside, which will not spoil appearance connections.

pipe cutters

But overheating can already lead to a defective connection. When the parts are combined, molten polypropylene begins to be pressed inward, where a “skirt” is formed and hardens, largely covering the passage. The water pressure in such a water supply may be reduced, and in addition, such a defect often becomes a place for blockages to form over time.

Conducting such a practical lesson will help you accurately determine all soldering parameters and avoid mistakes.

Features of working with pipes with aluminum reinforcement

As mentioned above, there are two options here - the reinforcement layer is located near the surface of the pipe, or deep in the wall. Accordingly, the methods of preparing the pipe for welding also differ.

• It is clear that the layer of aluminum located near the surface simply will not allow for complete heating and connection of the assembly. In addition, such pipes always have a slightly higher diameter and simply will not fit into either the heating coupling or the connecting element. This means that it is necessary to peel off this layer to “pure” polypropylene.

For this, a special tool is used - a shaver. A piece of pipe is inserted into it and they begin to turn - the installed knives carefully cut off the top polymer coating and the aluminum underneath.

Processing is carried out until the pipe stops at the bottom of the tool - the dimensions of the shaver are such that it will cut the foil exactly in the strip that is required for the welded joint at a given diameter, that is, you don’t even have to carry out the appropriate markings.

When soldering, the entire cleaned area must be heated and then completely inserted into the connecting piece. Leaving even a thin strip of protected pipe outside is prohibited.

• If aluminum foil is hidden in the bottom of the material, then it would seem that it does not allow for high-quality soldering. But there is already another nuance here.

If the pipe is not protected at the end, then water passing under pressure will try to delaminate it and find a way out between the aluminum layer and the outer polypropylene sheath. Aluminum, in addition, can begin to corrode and lose its strength. The result of such delamination first becomes “blisters” on the pipe body, which then inevitably end in a major accident.

The solution is to create conditions such that during welding the end of the pipe and the aluminum layer are completely covered with molten polypropylene. And this can be achieved by processing with a special tool, which was mentioned above - a trimmer.

Outwardly, it may be similar to a shaver, but its knives are located differently - they precisely align the end, cut a chamfer and remove a thin, about 1.5 - 2 mm from the edge, strip of aluminum foil around the circumference. During heating and during the mating of parts, the created bead of molten polypropylene will completely cover the end of the pipe, and the assembly will receive the necessary reliability.

Pipes with fiberglass reinforcement do not have any installation features.

• The soldering process, as stated, is best carried out on a comfortable, spacious work site, assembling ready-made water supply (heating circuit) units as much as possible, and only then installing and connecting them in place.

Working “next to the wall” is always more complex, time-consuming and nerve-wracking, since you have to hold a fairly heavy apparatus with one hand, while simultaneously providing heating to both mating parts. It is often almost impossible to make such a welded joint without an assistant. Therefore, it is worth reducing the number of such operations to a minimum.

But it is important to avoid mistakes. To connect the assembly, it is necessary to provide a certain degree of freedom to the mating parts - they need to be moved apart to install a welding machine between them (plus the heating pair also has a certain width), then carefully, without distortion, insert it into the mandrel and coupling, after warming up, ensure progressive removal and then connection. It is necessary to foresee this point in advance - whether the available play is enough to perform all these manipulations.

• It happens that inexperienced craftsmen, having not foreseen this nuance, are faced with the fact that there is only one weld left, and there is no way to complete it. What to do?

The solution may be to weld a dismountable connecting pair into the cut pipe - a threaded fitting and a coupling with an American union nut. The connection turns out to be reliable, and soldering such elements even in such difficult circumstances is no longer difficult.

• If at least some component during installation raises even the slightest doubt, without any regret it should be cut out and other parts welded. Believe me, it won’t take much time and won’t entail serious expenses. But if, over time, such a dubious area suddenly leaks, the consequences can be very sad.
• The next group of errors has already been mentioned above - a violation of pipe soldering technology. This may include insufficient or excessive heating. The force applied to the parts during connection should be moderate. Compressing too hard will cause an inner “skirt” to form. No less dangerous is the insufficient application of force - the pipe does not fully enter the socket of the connecting part, there remains a small area with an increased diameter and a thinned wall - a potential place for a breakthrough!

• Do not forget to clean the welded parts from dirt and grease. This may seem unimportant, but in practice there are quite a few cases where such neglect subsequently resulted in a weak connection and the formation of a leak.
• It is very dangerous to try to change the position of parts during the setting and cooling of the connection. This may not appear outwardly, but microcracks appear in the connecting seam, which subsequently lead to accidents. If you don’t like the connected node, throw it away and make a new one, but don’t try to change it!
• When stripping reinforced pipe There should not be even a tiny fragment of foil left on the cleaned area - this could become a potential site for a future leak.
• One more recommendation. It is clear that the material must be of high quality - you should not chase cheapness, since you can lose a lot more, especially since even branded polypropylene pipes and components for them are not so expensive. But there are cases when, during the installation of high-quality pipes, carried out in strict compliance with the technology, the connecting nodes nevertheless began to fail over time. And the reason is simple - it was really used quality material, but from different manufacturers. Seemingly insignificant differences in the chemical composition and physical and technical characteristics of polypropylene gave such an unexpected result - full diffusion of the melts was not achieved.

Therefore, one final piece of advice: use high-quality pipes from one manufacturer. It’s probably clear that all components should also be of the same brand.

At the end of the publication, there is an educational video about soldering polypropylene pipes:

Video: a master shares the secrets of high-quality soldering of polypropylene pipes

Compared to metal and metal-plastic pipes polypropylene analogues are cheaper, more durable and reliable. Another important argument in their favor is the ease of connection and sealing of joints, which has a positive effect on the viability of the entire pipeline system.

What parts do polypropylene products fit into?

If you don’t know how to connect polypropylene pipes, our explanations will come in handy. This type of pipe is in demand when preparing water supply, heating and irrigation mains. Due to the long service life of polypropylene pipes in the water supply network, which is about half a century, this type is increasingly preferred as a replacement for worn lines. And also these pipes are perfectly combined with auxiliary elements made of steel and polyethylene.

All polypropylene pipes, according to the scope of application, are classified into types:

1. Conventional pipes for installation of cold water pipelines (PN 10, 16).
2. Universal thick-walled pipes for carrying heating system, withstanding hot water with a temperature of +80ºC (PN 20).
3. Composite pipes having a layer of metal or nylon that is peeled off during soldering. Used for installation of heating systems where the maximum temperature hot water can reach +95ºC (PN 25).

Polypropylene pipe connections are distinguished by the absence of seams between the components of the pipeline.

If their diameter is less than 50 millimeters, you can use all kinds of fittings:

• couplings for connecting sections of the same transverse size;
• crosses to form branches;
• plugs for sealing the ends of the pipe;
• adapters for joining pipe products of various diameters;
• union fittings for connecting pipes with flexible hoses.

Pipe soldering

Let's consider connecting pipes using the soldering method:

1. Using a hacksaw or sharp scissors that do not deform the plastic, cut the pipes at an angle of 90°. If you don't know how to cut a pipe at an angle, you need to read more information.
2. If there are burrs on the end, carefully clean them off.
3. Mark the depth of the soldering, i.e. measure a section of a certain length on the pipe to fit into the coupling or tee and draw a line with a marker. Remember that the length of immersion into the connecting element is directly dependent on the diameter of the products. The larger the pipes, the greater the soldering depth.

The algorithm of actions will change slightly if the pipes are reinforced. Then, before the soldering process, it is necessary to process the top layer of the tubular product, including aluminum foil, basalt or nylon fiber. Using a special tool, the required layer size can be easily removed. You need to pay special attention to carefully remove the foil. Even a slight excess of it on the pipe will negatively affect the tightness of the solder joint.

Further steps in the soldering process:

1. Place a soldering iron with nozzles that are pre-selected according to the diameter of the pipes on a smooth and reliable surface.
2. At the same time, a pipe and fitting are placed on the hot nozzle on both sides, moving it to the marking made with a marker.
3. Heat the plastic for a certain time, which depends on the diametrical size of the pipes. For example, if the cross-section of the product is 20 mm, then 6 seconds are enough to heat up; if 32 mm - 8 sec.
4. Then the elements are removed from the nozzle and ensure a strong fixation into each other. Never make any turning movements.
5. To ensure strong adhesion of the joint, you need to wait 4-10 seconds. This time will be enough for the polypropylene to harden properly and obtain a permanent connection.

Please note that it is very important to adhere to the required heating time. If heating is insufficient, leaks may form. Excessive overheating will lead to sealing of the space inside the pipe and the occurrence of meltdown. You shouldn’t delete it right away, because... heated plastic will begin to deform even more. It is better to wait until the product has completely cooled down and then remove the excess.

Before you begin the process of soldering pipes, it is better to perform a couple of practice joints. It is easier to work with small joints by installing the welding machine directly on the table. This way you can check how correctly the pipe soldering is performed.

But attaching elements to a partially finished pipeline will be more difficult:

1. Place a soldering iron nozzle on the polypropylene pipe, insert a tee into the other part, holding the welding machine suspended.
2. When preparing the main water supply, it is necessary to alternate subsequent connections. In hard-to-reach areas, it is better to avoid joining work due to the difficulty of using a soldering iron.
3. The material must be dry and clean, because the presence of dirt and water will reduce the quality of the joint. It is known that the material, if wet, can deform when heated.
4. Purchase all products (pipes, fittings) from one manufacturer, because chemical composition elements from different manufacturers may differ, which will ultimately lead to a leaky connection.
5. Temperature in the room where work with polypropylene is carried out, it should be optimal and not lower than +5̊C.

Connecting pipes using the crimp method

Often, repairs will require disassembling the pipeline. If the connection of the main components is made by soldering, which is reliable and durable, then disassembling it is almost impossible. Let's look at how to connect polypropylene pipes without a soldering iron, which cannot always be bought or rented from friends. In this case, you will need threaded fittings with a pressure ring, which are called collet fittings (crimp). And for good reason, because this kind of connection can withstand loads of up to 16 atmospheres.

In order to connect the pipeline components together using the crimping method, additional parts will be needed:

• tees;
• rations and combination couplings with internal and external thread;
• squares;
• adapters with external thread;
• plugs;
• Ball Valves;
• tees with union nut;
• all kinds of threaded fittings;
• sealing rings for socket joints of polypropylene pipes, etc.

You need to pay attention to one nuance: to ensure reliable tightness, all seals and joints are generously treated with silicone.

Further actions:

1. Cut off part of the polypropylene pipe.
2. Insert it securely into the fitting.
3. Wrap the threads of the part with thread to seal.
4. Pull the ferrule and nut on top.
5. Use a crimp wrench, which you need to take care of in advance, to completely tighten the pipe elements.

Compared to welding, this method takes much more time, but it is very convenient for connecting polypropylene pipes and radiators.

Docking combination of metal and polypropylene

When installing plumbing and heating systems, there are places where it is necessary to connect steel and plastic pipes. For such cases, you will need special adapter fittings, which have a smooth hole for a plastic pipe on one side, and a threaded metal insert on the other. Therefore, the polypropylene pipe is joined by welding, and the steel pipe is tightened with a crimp wrench. As a result, the resulting connection is inferior in strength to a welded one, but will still last for many years.

Please note that upon completion of installation work, it is necessary to conduct a test run of water in the system. This way you can check the tightness of the joints of pipes and pipeline components. Threaded connections may leak and must be immediately tightened with a wrench.

As you can see, you can independently install a plumbing or heating system from polypropylene pipes. The main thing is to impeccably comply with the requirements of the instructions for using the welding machine and the installation technology. Watching a video on this topic will be very useful.

Compound of polyethylene and polypropylene

This option of the line involves the purchase of special fittings. They will be needed if water enters the building through HDPE pipes and is subsequently diluted using polypropylene pipes. In such cases, soldering of HDPE pipes with a soldering iron for polypropylene is quite often carried out, which is quite acceptable.

Let's consider two cases of how to connect polypropylene pipes without welding with polyethylene pipes:

1. A threaded coupling is attached to the HDPE product, on one side of which there is a clamp connection. A similar threaded coupling is also mounted on the end of the polypropylene pipe, with a solder joint on one end and a threaded joint on the opposite end. To avoid leaks and achieve high-quality joining, tow or FUM tape is applied to the threads.
2. Using a flange connection. The rubber seal is located between the flanges, which are bolted together. Read also: "".

Most often, so-called cold welding is used for this. This technology involves the use of an adhesive composition special purpose and fittings.

Advantages of using pipe connections without hot soldering

If you are thinking about how to connect a polypropylene pipe to a polypropylene pipe, then you can use a method that involves the use of special fittings. This technique has many advantages, among them especially the increased efficiency of installation of drainage and water supply systems, and the reduction of the possibility of leaks that can occur during butt welding or during a chemical connection. Among other things, the described technology is less labor-intensive and also requires less energy consumption. Among other things, it is associated with lower material consumption. they are quite cheap. Using fittings and glue, you can connect pipes of various diameters, which range from 6 to 400 millimeters.

Comparison of cold soldering with mechanical and welded joints

Before connecting a polypropylene pipe to a polypropylene pipe, you should consider all the advantages of the cold soldering method. Thus, this technique, with low material consumption, speed and quality of work performed, is not inferior to traditional welding. This gluing technology does not require the use of special equipment, which greatly simplifies manipulations. You don’t have to use a special machine designed for welding, which consumes quite an impressive amount of electricity during operation. Due to this, it is possible to reduce the cost of installation work. If you are faced with the task of how to connect a polypropylene pipe to a polypropylene pipe, then it is worth comparing the mechanical mating of elements using fittings. The latter technology is not so energy-intensive, but more material-intensive. This is due to the need to purchase additional fittings, which increases the cost of work.

Features of connection using fittings and glue

If you do not know how to connect a polypropylene pipe to a polypropylene pipe, then it is important to familiarize yourself with the technology. To do this, you will need to use glue, which is intended for connecting pipes to parts such as fittings. The latter are most often made from chlorinated polyvinyl chloride. After application, the glue begins to dissolve the surfaces of the parts by 1/3 of the thickness. This makes it possible to implement diffusion cold welding. On this process affected by air temperature and humidity. Before connecting polypropylene pipes using cold welding and fittings, you must ensure that the temperature environment ranges from 5 to 35 degrees. If there is a need to carry out installation work at temperatures below zero, then you should purchase frost-resistant glue, which can be applied until the thermometer drops to -18 degrees. If the work is carried out in hot weather, then gluing must be done in a much shorter time, which will eliminate the possibility of the composition drying out before the manipulations are completed. Before connecting polypropylene pipes using the described technology, you need to make sure that the glue has a uniform consistency, sufficient fluidity and does not have foreign inclusions.

During breaks between work, containers with adhesive composition it is necessary to close it as tightly as possible, which will prevent the evaporation of volatile active components.

Technology for connecting pipes using fittings and glue

If you decide to use the cold connection method, then you need to use the technology described below. At the first stage, you need to cut off part of the pipe in such a way that you can obtain an element of the required length. For this purpose it is recommended to use a pipe cutter, special scissors or a hacksaw, the latter of which has fairly fine teeth.

If you are thinking about the question of how to properly connect polypropylene pipes, then next stage At the end of the product, a chamfer is removed, and it is important to maintain an angle of 15 degrees. In the process of carrying out these manipulations, a chamfer is used; it is important to prevent the formation of burrs. The next step is to thoroughly clean the fitting socket, as well as the pipe, from dust, dirt and moisture.

In order to achieve effective cleaning of the connecting elements, you need to use cleaners designed for pipes made of CPVC. With the help of this composition it will be possible to prepare the surfaces well enough for further gluing.

Nuances of the work

If you are faced with the task of how to connect polypropylene pipes without a soldering iron, then at the next stage you can apply glue. In this case, you need to use a brush, carefully distributing the composition over the surface of the socket and pipe. The elements are inserted into each other; to distribute the composition evenly, you need to rotate the fitting 90 degrees relative to the pipe. The parts are fixed for 30 seconds, during which time they should not be rotated again. It is important to complete the entire process within 1 minute. If you are thinking about how to connect polypropylene pipes without soldering, then after gluing is completed, you need to check the presence of a bead, which is a uniform adhesive layer located around the circumference. You may have to get rid of excess glue using a soft rag.

Why is it worth using the cold method of joining plastic pipes?

Before connecting polypropylene pipes with fittings, you need to weigh all the positive and negative aspects of other technologies. If we're talking about about the adhesive connection, which was described above, it is worth highlighting the advantages that it is possible to carry out high-quality installation of pipes even in those places that are especially difficult to access. The technician will not have to use additional expensive equipment that can consume a large amount of electricity during operation. It is possible to carry out the entire process independently, without resorting to the help of professional companies. In the process of gluing parts, a monolithic type structure is formed, which ensures the tightness of the joint. If you decide to use adhesive cold welding, then, unlike conventional welding, inner surface the product will not form sagging, which can narrow the lumen and contribute to the settling of solid particles.

Conclusion

If you connect polypropylene pipes to each other, following the simple rules and recommendations described above, then leaks and sagging of the pipeline will be eliminated. Service life of a pipeline installed according to similar technique, can reach 50 years.