Brick stoves for a home or cottage, which use solid fuel as an energy source, are quite a necessary thing in country houses. If you know a few nuances, you can easily build a heating device with your own hands. The advantage of this unit is the ability to use it for cooking.

Types of stoves

Different stoves for one family

Brick stoves for a summer house or home are divided into the following types depending on their functions:
heating - designed for heating residential premises.

Can be used in combination with other heating devices:

• cooking - used for cooking;
• cooking and heating - used both for heating the building and for cooking;
• Russians - a special type of wood-burning stove, which is equipped with a stove bench;
• fireplace stoves – combine the functions of a closed stove and an open fireplace in one unit;
• specific devices - designed for drying clothes, berries, and heating large volumes of water.

Structural elements of brick stoves

Any stoves for home or garden, regardless of their functionality consist of the following elements:

• combustion chamber where the wood combustion process takes place;
• the foundation is a mandatory part if the furnace is massive and produces a load of more than 250 kg/m2;
• grate – designed to accommodate solid fuel in the firebox and free movement of ash into the ash pan;
• ash pan - a small chamber where ash accumulates;
• chimney - designed to drain carbon monoxide from the heating system;
• vent – ​​provides the system with fresh air.

Brick ovens for cooking are also equipped hob. Additionally, an oven, drying chamber, water heating tank and other devices can be installed to increase functionality heating device.

Brick pyrolysis stove

Brick oven long burning Outwardly it is no different from a regular stove. It can be used to heat a house or cottage. The long-burning unit has a unique design. Inside a regular combustion chamber there is a special shaft. It is connected to the intermediate hood, where the combustion of gases from the furnace occurs.

Advantages of long-burning wood-burning stoves:

• high efficiency - when using the same volume of firewood you can get much more
• more thermal energy;
• high efficiency - in some devices this figure reaches 85%;
• a long-burning stove can be used as the only source of heat for the home;
• the gas that comes out through the chimney has almost no harmful substances;
• Additional firewood needs to be added only after 5-6 hours.

When installing a long-burning unit, you need to take into account that the wood used for heating must be dry. If their humidity is increased, this will significantly reduce the productivity of the heating device. The chimney for a long-burning stove should be as vertical as possible.

It also needs to be cleaned frequently, because due to the low temperature of the exhaust gases, inner surface smoke channel accumulates a large number of soot

Swedish stove

The Swedish stove, which is equipped with a hob, is one of the most successful models of brick heating devices. It is equipped with an oven with a duct convector and a dryer.

Advantages of the Swedish stove:

• enough high efficiency – 60%;
• convector and oven do not have feedback with a firebox, which allows you to choose different schemes their placement;
• the convector can be built from ordinary bricks and cement-sand mortar;
• This heating device allows you to heat the room evenly over the entire height;
• The design of the stove allows you to vary its size and configuration.

The main disadvantage of the Swedish stove is the high requirements for the quality of its installation.

What will be needed to build a stove?

To build a stove to heat your home with your own hands, you need to stock up on the following tools:

• trowel;
• building level;
• plumb line;
• rule;
• hammer;
• roulette;
• shovel.

To build a firebox for a heating device with your own hands, use refractory fireclay bricks. For the construction of elements that are not exposed to high temperatures, you can use ordinary red brick. For the solution, take sand and clay of medium fat content. You can also buy a special mixture that is intended for stoves and fireplaces.

Most domestic holiday villages do not yet have the opportunity to connect to centralized communications. In terms of infrastructure, it’s good if there are asphalt roads and power lines. In such conditions, building a brick stove for a wood-burning cottage will help solve an important problem: it will provide thermal energy for heating rooms and for cooking.

We have selected for you diagrams and orders of the simplest stove structures, the laying of which can be handled by a novice master. With our help, home craftsmen will easily master the basics of the difficult, but extremely interesting activity of a stove maker. An impeccably constructed structure will delight both the owner and household members.

Except detailed description We present technologies for laying brick stoves valuable recommendations on the selection of materials for the construction of units. The article meticulously describes significant subtleties and the smallest nuances. To help independent stove makers, diagrams of stove structures, operational instructions, photos and video tutorials are included.

Proper selection of material for a structure exposed to high temperatures is an important part of the job of a trained stove maker. After all, the unit will be operated in far from difficult conditions, and it should not malfunction, crack or collapse.

Option #1 – stove with a single burner panel

This is an extremely simple and compact design, seemingly elongated in the vertical direction. In the example, it is equipped with a door with heat-resistant glass, which allows you to monitor the process. If it is not possible to purchase just such a door, the cast iron variety is quite suitable.

The oven can be made in two versions: universal - with a hob designed for preparing hot dishes, heating - without a chamber for the hob

The width of the small-sized brick structure is 510 mm, which allows it to be placed in traditionally small country houses without any problems. The depth of the stove is 640 mm, while the depth of the firebox does not exceed 500 mm. The height of the structure is 2150 mm, the height of the chimney is determined by the position of the pipe relative to the ridge.

There is an oven that can be replaced with a drying chamber or a preparation tank hot water. The presence of functional compartments not only allows you to prepare delicious hot dishes at the dacha, but also increases the heat transfer of a brick structure.

The air heated by the stove and flue gases rush upward during operation of the stove and pass along back wall cooking compartment, after which they flow into the smoke circuits and then into the chimney. Thermal energy in this building is used to the maximum.

A narrow, vertically oriented design takes up minimal space in a country house, but does an excellent job of heating the space

The described brick structure includes 31 rows of flat laid bricks. In order for the structure to function flawlessly, the following procedures must be strictly followed.

During masonry, you need to constantly check the horizontalness of the structure being built and check the size of the diagonals of the laid sides. There are strict requirements for the thickness of seams that must be strictly taken into account. The maximum thickness of seams when laying the body and smoke exhausts cannot exceed 5 mm, when making lining - 3 mm.

The stove is one of the oldest heating systems country house– has not yet lost its relevance. The furnace design has high productivity and is not demanding on the raw materials used. The main disadvantages of the stove are the inability to regulate the heating temperature and the difficulty of maintaining a constant fire.

When conducting construction work It is important that the brickwork is perfect the first time, otherwise the structure will have to be disassembled. An incorrectly designed or assembled stove will become a source of smoke in the room.

Types of stoves

In the past, houses were built “from the stove”, that is, it was installed first, and then the walls and ceilings were erected. Nowadays, it is not necessary to do this, but it is advisable, especially when you plan to position the stove in such a way that it heats several rooms at once.

The most common types of stoves are Russian, Swedish and Dutch. At the same time, the Russian one must be erected before the construction of the house begins, and besides, it requires a separate foundation. In general, any kiln consisting of 500 bricks or more needs a foundation that is separate from the base of the building. It's easier with Dutch and Swedish ovens. They are compact, can be installed in an already constructed building and do not require an additional foundation.

There is another wood-burning stove - a bell-type stove. Its advantage is its efficiency, reaching 70% compared to 50% for other types of furnaces. The disadvantage of such a stove is its complex design, which makes it almost impossible to assemble it with your own hands. Also, the stove cannot be equipped with a hob - the design is intended exclusively for heating premises.

Furnace structure

The Dutch oven is a classic wood-burning channel stove. Its operating principle is based on the circulation of hot air along passages laid in the body of the furnace.

The design of the stove is quite simple; its masonry can be adapted to suit the configuration of any type of room.

But installing a tank for heating water will not work: this will lead to a decrease in efficiency due to the accumulation of soot in the channels. In addition, even without a tank, the efficiency of the furnace barely reaches 40%.

In turn, the “Swedish” has an efficiency of 60%. It is considered the most advanced heating and cooking oven, where the oven serves as an air chamber. Afterburning occurs in the chamber part flue gases, and they go into the convector heated to 800°C. The convector itself is narrow, but has a large height, due to which the house is heated evenly.

The Swede can be equipped with a heat exchanger for the hot water supply system. The storage tank is placed on the roof or in a drying niche. As a result, the efficiency does not decrease: there is no feedback energy connection between the oven and convector on the one hand and the combustion part on the other.

Preparing tools

In order to lay bricks, you will need the following tools:

• rectangular and acute-angled sledgehammer;
• rammer made of metal or wood;
• jointing for concave and convex seams;
• combination trowel;
• a spatula for working with mortar and a trowel;
• measuring devices: a rule made of wood or aluminum, a plumb line, a level, a tape measure, a folding meter, a square.

In addition, guide posts are required, which will be installed in the house while the work is being carried out. This is required to ensure that the brick laying is smooth. It is impossible to correct skewed corners, so it is better to take care of their correctness in advance. The racks are installed in a strictly vertical position, with horizontal crossbars or, even better, wooden formwork attached to them.

You can carry bricks with your own hands, but it’s better to get them in advance special frame for the tray. The same applies to the solution: when transporting it, it is better to load it on a stretcher.

Selection of bricks and heating elements

For the construction of passages and heated elements of the furnace, refractory bricks are used. Ordinary brick is used to furnish parts that are not exposed to high temperatures. The dimensions of any type of brick are 250 mm in length, 120 in width and 65 in height. If necessary, brick blocks break.

Thus, a distinction is made between a three-quarter brick, the length of which is 3/4 of the whole, and a half-brick - with a length cut in half. Very small pieces of brick, equal to 1/4 of the whole, are called quarter bricks. The cutting of material is carried out using a sharp steel knife and a knocker - trimming metal pipe. To build a furnace, you will also need metal elements, including:

• a door for the firebox, a door for the blower and a door for cleaning passages;
• view valve;
• grate

All listed details must be comparable to the dimensions of the brick blocks. The stove is waterproofed using roofing felt. The length of the sheets of this material depends on the dimensions of the structure. This factor determines the number of bricks. Typically, the amount of building materials needed is indicated in the project documentation or calculated individually. Knowing the number of rows, the size of the brick and the dimensions of the oven, this is done simply.

Preparation of the solution

To prepare the solution, you need to stock up on a suitable container, as well as a sieve with 3x3 mm cells. To work with the mixture you will need a shovel, a drill mixer and a small board. The solution will include water, sand and clay. The harvested water must be clean, without the smell of mold and with a minimum amount of mineral additives.

If tap water is contaminated in your area, try to bring it to the the right amount. Its volume depends on the number of bricks that the masonry will contain: for example, for every hundred there are from 15 to 20 liters of liquid. The solution requires fine sand. It is sifted through a sieve to remove pieces of crushed stone and gravel. In addition, you need to purchase clay High Quality: the strength of the solution depends on it.

Preparation of the mixture begins by mixing water and clay in such proportions that the mass is not too liquid, but not too thick, homogeneous mass.

After it becomes plastic, add sifted sand in a ratio of 1 liter per bucket of water. You can check the readiness of the solution by lowering a board into it: the thickness of the mixture adhering to it should be at least 2 cm. When the desired result is achieved, stop adding sand.

Progress of laying rows

The construction of the furnace begins with the installation of guide posts. The formwork is attached to them - wooden box without bottom. It is needed to ensure that the masonry is even. The formwork is designed for several rows: when they are completed, it is raised to the top. It is also used to create vaults and arches, although for this purpose semicircular formwork is used, and not in the form of a box. When the masonry is higher than the chest, you will have to work on platforms.

When everything is ready, you need to choose a method of ordering the masonry heating stoves and construction technology. There are two popular options for installing blocks - splice and spoon. They got their name depending on which part of the brick faces outward. There is another method - a bed method, when the bricks are installed on a spoon or a poke, but it is unreliable. To avoid problems, it is recommended to monitor the thickness of the seam: it should be at least 5 mm.

Laying stages

Let's take a closer look at the stages of laying a stove in a house using a Swede as an example. The first layer of brick is the most important; it is laid strictly in compliance with the level. Bricks are not placed in the place where the ash pit chamber is located. Between the camera and front side In the furnace there will be a blower, the blocks behind it are cut at an angle to make it easier to remove the ash. A three-quarter brick is placed in front of the ash pit.

The second and third rows are placed after the ash pan is secured. Otherwise they are similar to the first. It is important that the height of the third row coincides with the height of the blower door. In the fourth row, a door is installed for cleaning the passages with your own hands, and the passages themselves are laid out directly behind it. A row of bricks from above blocks the ash door.

With each subsequent row, the opening of the ash pan is narrowed. A grate is installed on the fifth row of bricks. The combustion chamber door is mounted on top of the sixth row above the ash pit. It is necessary that its height coincides with the height of the ninth row.

The first ten rows are made of refractory bricks, the next superstructure is made of ordinary building material. Placed on top of the bricks of the tenth row hob. IN next rows the passages for the movement of heated air smoothly transform into a smoke outlet. More detailed diagram The order of the furnace is determined by the configuration and purpose of the structure.

Once upon a time, classic brick stoves for a home were a mandatory attribute and the only method of heating. Professional stove makers were in demand and respected. Today there are many new means for heating premises that operate from different sources energy, from solid fuel to electricity. However, good stove makers remain in demand and the online request for “brick stoves for home drawings with instructions” remains frequent.

Some build stoves for a bathhouse, for a summer residence, or simply because their home is remote, which is why there is no alternative. Different types of stoves can perform a heating function; some models can cook traditional dishes. Some are large in size, others are compact and quickly erected. Some plan before building a house, while others need to be included already in existing premises. Stoves are ordered or made by hand in order to save money, others are built to fill the decor. In any case, all such equipment must be constructed from high-quality and suitable materials, in accordance with existing SNiP. You can find any drawings with instructions on the Internet, but you need to understand that building a stove for your home with your own hands will not be so easy.

Why does the brick kiln remain competitive, more and more being built, with so many advantages?

It would seem that today there are many alternatives for heating that are much more convenient to use, and according to manufacturers, they have greater efficiency (coefficient of performance). But why are brick ones still in demand in some areas or buildings? One of the reasons is that a brick stove “breathes.”

This means that when the furnace warms up, moisture is released from the base of the structure. As it cools, moisture is absorbed back. Thanks to this, it maintains the normal dew point in the room. It is this indicator that indicates that “a cozy atmosphere is maintained in the house.”

Ability brick oven“breathing” not only has a positive effect on human health, but also allows you to feel comfort even if you are not household level. When calculating a house's thermal engineering, temperature indicators in heating season are set between 18-20 Celsius. Air humidity should be optimal for health. Home oven provides optimal humidity air, at a warm-up temperature of about 16 degrees Celsius. At this temperature, a person does not feel discomfort; clothes and bedding remain dry. At the same time, in panel houses, when using centralized water heating, even at a temperature of 18 degrees Celsius, excessive air humidity may be felt.

For water heating, the optimal temperature range will be 20-23 Celsius. And for electric heating with infrared emitters the temperature should be even higher (since they dry out the air greatly). It turns out that a brick oven with an efficiency index of about 50% will be more profitable, in terms of savings, than modern systems, with rates of 60-80%. Thus, the savings will be more significant, because the loss of heat in the house depends on the difference in temperatures inside and outside the room.

Selecting oven surface size

Before you begin construction, you must select the type and model future design. The main criteria for selection will not be her appearance and ease of construction, and heat transfer (the ability to heat the required area).

When choosing a location for its placement, you should know that side surfaces furnaces have the greatest heat transfer. This is a determining factor when choosing a location.

Different models have different shapes:

• Rectangular;
• In the form of the letter T;
• With a bed or kitchen equipment for cooking.

They can serve as a heating device for living rooms, or be a space divider.

For a small home area, you should not choose too massive structures; even if they have a wide range of functions, they will take up too much space and give off too much heat. To heat the entire furnace you need a lot of fuel, and the heat transfer will be too great.

The location of the stove relative to the living rooms is also important, and the insulation of the entire house is also a criterion.

Table of stove sizes, taking into account the area of ​​the room

The structure of a stove for the home, stoves for the home of the classical design

The oven consists of 3 main parts. The body of the stove, the foundation and the chimney leading to the roof.

Furnace diagram example:

The oven consists of:

1. Foundations - foundation;
2. Waterproofing material;
3. Shantsy. They are holes, they are made to create heating in the lower part of the room. They serve as “legs” in the structure;
4. Blower;
5. The opening of the air channel helps to warm up the room over the entire height;
6. Blower door;
7. Grate grate;
8. Kindling door;
9. Furnace part;
10. Vault of the combustion part;
11. “Hailo” (Sometimes the vertical part of the firebox with the nozzle is called the hailo);
12. Door for cleaning;
13. Strangler Pass;
14. Dushnik;
15. Valves that regulate the direction of travel;
16. Convector channel;
17. A valve that closes the chimney after heating the stove. Close it after heating so that the oven does not cool down.
18. Exhaust door;
19. Chimney hole;
20. Cover (top of the furnace);
21. Cutting the chimney under the ceiling;
22. Overlap;
23. Chimney on the roof (otter or fluff).

Foundation

The foundation for the stove is made separately from the general foundation of the house. Use ordinary reinforced concrete strip foundation. Insulation is laid on it in several layers of roofing material, and on top of them is a sheet of asbestos. The asbestos is covered with an iron sheet (preferably cast iron, but this is very expensive; ordinary roofing metal will do), and the top is covered with felt. The felt bedding is pre-moistened, laid on the foundation and allowed to dry. Only after this do they begin laying. By itself, the litter is needed so that the foundation does not take over all thermal energy ovens. In simple words“so that the heat doesn’t go into the ground.”

Masonry base

The base of the masonry is made in oblique shading from simple red brick, on a cement-sand mortar. This part is located under the firebox and will not experience high thermal loads. The firebox is made of red ceramic bricks, in combination with fireproof (fireclay) material. A clay mixture with sand (sometimes with the addition of fireclay) is used.

A sheet of metal and asbestos is laid in front of the blower door. The thickness of the asbestos layer should be about 5 mm. Its edges should be laid in the masonry of the stoves. Takeaway metal sheet not less than 250 mm. The edges are tucked in, pushing them towards the floor.

Unlike cement-sand mortar, a mixture of clay and sand dries out rather than setting. Therefore, with constant exposure to moisture (especially in winter period), the solution gets wet. For this reason, some part of the furnace that does not experience high temperatures (up to 300 degrees Celsius) is placed on a cement-sand mortar. Portland cement grade 400 and quartz quarry sand are used.

To ensure the accumulation of soot in the lower part of the channels, the edges of the transitions are made rounded. Each new channel must be higher in height than the first (lower transition). It is much easier to remove soot from the lower channels.

Chimney

It is laid out from red ceramic bricks and ordinary cement-sand mortar. Such bricks are cheaper than fireclay bricks, and the mortar is much stronger. We must not forget about cutting the chimney inside the apartment (in the ceilings). The cutting performs fire-fighting functions. A thick layer of bricks warms up more slowly in the event of a soot fire, and thus transfers less heat load to the ceiling.

The upper chimney pipe (otter), which is located above the roof, performs decorative functions and is a side for drainage of precipitation. The draft in the furnace will depend on the height of the pipe.

Place for a stove in the house

It will depend on where the stove is installed effective work. The best location would be the intersection of all the walls in the house. If not larger area, it will be possible to effectively heat the entire space. The closer the oven is to the exit, the better. The heated air will prevent cold air from entering from the outside. In addition, in this case it will be easier to deliver fuel for the furnace.

Factors to consider:

• The structure must be installed so that all side parts can be reached. This is needed for correct operation and full cleaning capabilities.
• The stove should not be part of the general foundation of the house, since its foundation will experience completely different types of loads.
• The location should be such that the chimney pipe does not rest against the floor beams. This needs to be calculated when building a house or when laying the foundation for the stove.
• There must be a fire-resistant floor in front of the firebox door. (sheet metal or ceramic tile), to prevent accidental fires.

Equipment and building materials for building a stove with your own hands

Brick

There are sources on the Internet that claim that bricks for stoves and fireproof bricks are one and the same. In fact, they only have in common linear dimensions. The dimensions of a regular single building brick are 250 by 125 by 65 mm, and a standard stove brick has a size of 230 by 114 by 40 mm. Sometimes 230 by 114 by 65 mm is found. In the construction of the furnace, a special quality brick grade 150. It is resistant to temperatures up to 800 degrees. It would be possible to build an entire furnace from it, but it cools quickly and is not suitable for a full-fledged furnace.

Fireclay bricks are used to lay the furnace channels in the combustion chamber. It can withstand high thermal loads. It is used in Swedish stoves or sauna stoves. It can withstand temperatures up to 1800 degrees, but in home ovens this temperature does not exist. It is valued for other qualities - the ability to retain heat for a long time. It makes no sense to build the entire body of the furnace out of it, since it is very expensive and has weak strength.

To distinguish high-quality fireclay from low-quality one, there is an opinion that it should have a yellowish tint. But such a calculation is not correct, since fireclay can change color depending on its deposit. A sign of high-quality fireclay is the fine grain of the brick. Another way checks - check to the sound. The brick is tapped with a hammer. The sound should be clear and clear, not dull. The last way to determine the quality of a material is radical. They break the brick in half and look at the break. High-quality fireclay is broken into large pieces.

As a substitute for expensive fireclay, it is sometimes used in furnace construction. clinker brick. It is just like red ceramic, but it is fired at elevated temperatures. It has greater strength and fire resistance.

White silicate is not suitable for any parts. It is not resistant to thermal stress and absorbs moisture too much.

Sand

As sand in cement-sand mortar Medium grade quarry sand is used. It is sifted through a sieve to remove large fractions and various organic inclusions. Availability additional inclusions in this case it is very important. All organic impurities will burn from heat, causing the masonry to crack and begin to crumble.

Masonry mortar

To lay the stove you will have to use several types of mortar based on:

• Cement;
• Lime;
• Clays;
• Chamotte.

Characterized by its plasticity. It is used in places experiencing high temperature loads. This solution is cheap in price. Clay can be easily found on almost any plot of land after cleaning it first. It can withstand temperatures up to 1100 degrees Celsius. This mixture dries out when exposed to high temperature, but gets wet when exposed to moisture. The furnace masonry can always be disassembled and reassembled. But you can’t lay a foundation on such a solution.

A mixture of clay with the addition of fireclay is used in the combustion chambers. This solution can withstand the highest thermal loads.

The lime mixture is used on the foundation masonry or for the chimney. This solution is quite strong, but can only withstand 450 degrees Celsius.

Cement-lime is even more durable than ordinary lime, but fire resistance is reduced even more. Used in the foundation.

Cement-sand mortar is used for masonry chimney. He has best performance strength and resistance to precipitation. The seams of such a solution will not allow smoke and digging into the room and will provide good draft for the firebox.

Examples of brick stove projects

Stove for a summer residence

Medium sizes country house are about 15-20 sq. m. With a consumption of only 280 bricks, you can build a small stove with dimensions of 2 meters by 3 and a heat capacity coefficient of 1.90 kW. As mentioned earlier, the combustion part is made of refractory brick, and the entire body is built of red ceramic.

The figure shows a sectional view of the furnace design

This simple option can be easily made by every beginner out of brick with his own hands, without even making mistakes.

Scheme with order, order instructions

Despite its small dimensions and light weight, it still requires construction separate foundation. The foundation must also withstand the pressure of the chimney.

The thickness of the seam for masonry should be standard 8-10 mm, while the thickness of the seam between refractory bricks should be half as much.

It is better not to change the drawing if you do not have your own experience.

For such a stove, the chimney is laid in a brick floor.

Quantity of material:

You will need about 210 pieces of regular bricks, about 75 pieces of fireclay bricks. The clay solution will take about 70 liters. Sand 0.4 cubic meters m. One grate, door for combustion chamber, ash chamber and cleaning room. Two smoke valves. Sheet of metal for the foundation. For waterproofing, about 3 meters of roofing material.

The number of bricks is approximate, since there will be a certain percentage of broken bricks.

Russian stove

Such a furnace has an efficiency of 80 percent. She has a beautiful appearance. You can cook food on such a stove and its design includes a bench. The masonry and construction schemes are quite simple. Its main disadvantage is its design feature, due to which it only warms up top part premises. But in our country, it is still popular.

What it consists of:

• A) heated part;
• B) niche;
• B) pole;
• D) forge;
• D) shower part;
• E) shield;
• G) valve;
• H) chimney pipe;
• I) Repainting the furnace.

Large, small and medium furnaces are built according to their size. Let's consider a small one, measuring 1270 by 650 by 2380 mm.

Necessary materials:

Red bricks, about 1620 pieces. The clay solution will take about 1000 liters. Made of steel, a plug measuring 430 by 340, a valve measuring 300 by 300 (two pieces), a samovar measuring 140 by 140 (one).

Order of the Russian stove:

Row No. 1 is laid out from solid ceramic bricks, on a lime mortar with the addition of cement. The formation of the furnace part occurs;

Row No. 2 to No. 4 a well is laid out. All seams are tied. On the one hand, they leave room for baking;

Rows No. 5 to No. 7 erect a vault over the oven;

Row No. 8 to No. 10 a castle for the vault is being erected;

Row No. 11 lay out a cold stove. Sand is poured into the remaining space between the stove and the oven;

Row No. 12 is laid out “under”. It is made from special bricks;

Row No. 13 is the beginning of the cooking chamber;

Rows No. 14 to 16 are done in the same way as the previous one;

Row No. 17 installs the arches of the mouths;

Row No. 18 laying the furnace walls;

Row No. 19 vault walls;

Row No. 20, using half bricks, narrow the hole above the pole;

Row No. 21 aligns the walls;

Row No. 22 is the stage of leveling and reducing the front pipe part;

Row No. 23 lay out a samovar;

Rows No. 24 to No. 32 installation of view valves;

Row No. 32 chimney laying. In a Russian stove, the chimney is made of 2 bricks.

Some features can be seen in Fig.

Before you start laying stoves, it’s worth trying to lay out at least one without mortar to understand the essence of the schemes. But with effort and patience, everyone can make a stove with their own hands.

Video

In this video you can see the order of the heating stove:

A country house, no matter large or small, needs heating. If you plan to live at your dacha in the autumn-winter period, then a simple brick dacha stove will completely provide warmth and dryness. Just one caveat - if you plan to periodically (intermittently) stay in the house in winter, then brick stove- not the best option.

The stove does not like loneliness and sudden temperature changes. If in a cold house that has stood for two months, you flood it and do this occasionally, then from the drop temperature regime brickwork deteriorates very quickly. Therefore, either heat regularly, or switch to another heating option.

Stove options for a country house

There are three options for brick structures for heating a home and cooking:

• Traditional Russian brick stove for a dacha. A universal monumental design, the “heart” of the entire house. Suitable for cooking, heating, and household preparations; it is often used as a small warm bedroom. The disadvantages of the design, especially in small house may include the need for regular heating, high consumption firewood and coal, certain difficulties in lighting and the need for skills and dexterity in cooking;

• Dutch brick stove for a summer residence– economical, excellent heat retention, easy to build yourself. Not suitable for cooking;
• The Swede is installed in the wall between two rooms, on one side a vent for cooking food is mounted, and the opposite wall is designed to warm up living room. The design is easy to use and combines several functions at once, and is economical in fuel consumption.

Important. Construction requires certain construction skills and it is difficult to install such a structure in a dacha yourself; it is better to turn to professionals.

We build the stove ourselves

Initially, we need to decide where we will build the stove. It is extremely important that the foundation of the furnace is completely autonomous and not tied to the building. This requirement is due to the property of materials to expand and/or contract when exposed to high temperatures.

If the furnace wall comes into contact with outer wall home, then a temperature difference can cause destruction of the entire structure. The same requirement applies to the foundation, which must be autonomous and thoroughly waterproofed.

When choosing a place to build a stove, it is also important to determine how the chimney will be located. Experts advise first drawing a house plan and thinking about the location of the stove.

When choosing a location for the stove and its size, we take into account the following parameters:

• Area of ​​rooms that require heating;
• Free passage to the firebox and convenient placement of the combustion chamber;
• Chimney outlet (the pipe must be at least one meter above the roof level);
• Instructions for fire safety requires that the walls of the furnace be located at least thirty centimeters from the walls of the building, for wooden houses this distance increases to one meter.

Advice. Country houses It is easy to heat a block of containers by installing an ordinary potbelly stove and covering it with red brick.
Aesthetically pleasing and keeps warm for a long time.

Foundation

The design of the furnace has considerable weight, so it requires a strong, waterproofed, autonomous foundation. The optimal depth of the pit for the foundation is from 50 to 70 centimeters, depending on the size of the furnace structure. Before laying a brick stove in your dacha, be sure to take into account the weight of the entire structure; the height of the foundation depends on it.

Important. The foundation must be two rows below the floor in order to provide comfortable temperature in the house.

The procedure for pouring the foundation:

• We dig a foundation pit according to the size of the furnace, 50 - 70 centimeters deep. A high-quality foundation will prevent the structure from shrinking over time;
• We line the bottom with a double layer of waterproofing (roofing felt, film, special waterproofing for foundations in rolls);
• Fill the layer river sand 5 - 10 centimeters thick and compacted thoroughly.

Advice. Professional stove makers advise using clay instead of sand, which ensures additional protection structures from moisture, especially in high-lying areas groundwater.

• Next we fill the foundation cement mortar based on 1 part cement 3 parts sand. It is important to pay attention to the purity of the sand fraction so that there are no foreign impurities and contaminants, as this creates voids in the foundation and leads to its deformation;
• On the poured layer of cement (20 cm), we lay a lathing made of reinforcement with a diameter of 20 mm and fill it with another layer of concrete. For large structures, two layers of metal sheathing are required in increments of ten centimeters;
• The foundation takes 2–3 weeks to dry, depending on weather conditions and humidity in the room. In hot weather, to prevent cracking, the cement should be sprayed with water or covered with plastic wrap.

Advice. Drying time can be reduced by five days if you ensure high-quality ventilation of the room.

Masonry mortar

The consistency of the solution and its composition largely determine the heat transfer of the stove and its strength. The sand fraction for the solution is one millimeter without foreign impurities.

Attention. The binder, in our case clay, should not exceed specified proportions, otherwise the composition will be fragile.

The percentage of components of the masonry mortar also depends on the quality of the clay:

• For thin clays, the volume of sand is reduced;
• For fatty acids, the ratio is one part clay – two parts sand.

The fat content of clay is determined as follows. We dilute it with water to a creamy consistency and check it with a wooden stick, coating it with the solution. If the solution drains, then the clay is greasy; if the dried solution is taken on a stick in lumps, it is dry; if it hardens in an even layer, it is of medium fat content.

Proportions of quality clay from hardware store and sand - one to one.

Salt or cement can be used as strengthening additives. For one hundred bricks, the following mortar ratio: ten kilograms of clay and sand, 150 grams of salt, kilogram of M400 cement.

Important. For plasticity, the clay for the solution must be soaked for 12 - 24 hours, depending on the fat content, constantly stirring the solution.

For laying the outer part of the chimney, a solution based on lime paste is used. The same mixture is ideal for laying the base. A solution of three parts sand and one part lime paste. Lime dough - 3 parts water and one part quicklime; you can purchase ready-made dough at a hardware store.

Heat-resistant mixture for laying the combustion chamber. One part M400 cement, two parts broken brick or crushed stone, two parts sand and 0.3 parts fireclay sand. Quartz sand increases the strength of the solution by 30 percent.

Base

A fireplace stove for a brick cottage needs a base that provides guaranteed protection from moisture. The height of the plinth is on average two rows of bricks.

The base is laid out on a layer of waterproofing made of roofing felt or foil. Be sure to carefully check the horizontal and vertical lines of the first rows of masonry using a level. The strength of the entire structure depends on this.

If some bricks lie unevenly, then we restore the horizontal using rubber mallet, carefully knocking out the row. The standard height of the plinth above the floor is twenty centimeters. But in areas with high groundwater levels and high humidity, the base can be made higher.

Laying walls and chimney

Some tips from professionals that will make construction work easier:

• Lay out the bricks in rows without mortar and number them with a waterproof marker, this will make further work much easier;
• Before laying, red brick must be soaked until air bubbles are released, this will ensure the durability and strength of the structure;
• When carrying out work, especially in the area of ​​the combustion chamber and chimney, carefully remove the remaining solution with a damp cloth, not allowing it to harden;
• The chimney area should have as smooth an internal surface as possible;
• The combustion solution must be heat-resistant (can be purchased at hardware stores);
• Solution for brickwork it is necessary to cook not immediately, but as the work is completed in portions. The solution should have the consistency of thick sour cream without foreign impurities;
• Seams should be no more than five millimeters for red brick and no more than three millimeters for refractory brick;
• Steel corners will provide even corners and structural strength, the price of work will increase slightly;

Advice. Buy all construction material from the same batch (especially red brick), check it for integrity and absence of chips and cracks.
It is very important that there is enough material for the entire masonry, so a reserve of 10 percent is provided above the norm, taking into account the battle.

• 1 – lay out as level and plumb as possible;
• 2 – we begin the installation of the blower door. To prevent the door from deforming the masonry when opening and closing, there must be a gap around the perimeter of five millimeters;
• 3 – we begin to form the ash pan.

Important. The brick for the ash chamber should be smaller than the other three-fourths of the standard.
We cut using a grinder with a stone disc, this will prevent chips and cracks.

• 4 – completes the ash chamber;
• 5 – is a stand for mounting grate bars;

Important. From the fifth to fifteenth row we use a solution for refractories, since this is the fuel combustion zone.

• From 6 to 8 – installation of the combustion chamber door. The walls of the firebox should be as smooth as possible, so we increase the solution rate;
• 9 – 12 – walls of the fuel chamber;
• 13 – 14 – roof of the fuel chamber;
• 15 – completion of the vault;
• 16 – safety, reinforcing;
• 17 – 18 – installation of the connector;
• 19 – 20 – connector output to the pipe;
• Installation of a chimney pipe made of ceramic brick or metal.

Advice. To reduce fuel consumption, the pipe is additionally insulated using a sandwich principle with mineral wool.

Before you light the stove for the first time, let the masonry dry for at least two weeks, and even three in case of high humidity. If you start heating right away, the solution may crack due to a sharp temperature change.

Conclusion

Building a stove requires certain construction skills; sometimes it is more profitable to rent a diesel generator for a summer residence, especially if you are not planning to stay in the winter. But, if you want to build a warm and durable brick stove yourself, then the video presented in this article will help you clearly understand the intricacies of the stove business. Durability and guaranteed warmth in the house will be ensured.