Street cable can be installed in two ways. Today we will talk in detail about each of them. The main features will also be identified various types cables At the end of the article you will be able to find out which one is best suited in a particular case.

Selection and installation methods of power cable

Outdoor cable can be installed in two different ways:

You can also use cables that already have support cable(For example, ).

But most the best option connections country house today is an insulated self-supporting SIP wire. For example, in and, the zero core performs a load-bearing function, and in and - the twisted cores represent a load-bearing structure.

Underground. Here you select a cable for street wiring, designed to work underground. For this purpose, you can purchase or. These cables can be used without additional protection laid in the ground, as they have armor made of galvanized strips. If it is necessary to lay the cable in places where ground subsidence is possible, then you need to use cables with wire armor, for example or.

If you choose another type (for example, VVG or), then it must be laid in a protective metal pipe or box.

Selection and installation methods of UTP and FTP information cables

Street cable is a twisted pair cable that has a common foil shield and a copper conductor to drain induced currents. It is generally used for external lining, while street cable is an unshielded twisted pair cable. In principle, both the first and second can be laid outdoors if the cable sheath is made of light-stabilized polyethylene, for example or. In other cases, it is necessary to protect the cable from exposure to sunlight and wind loads. For this purpose, it can be hidden in corrugated pipe. Installation of both types of cables is carried out using the same technology as the power cable. However, it must be remembered that street twisted pair cable must be laid separately from power lines.

How to lay communications underground?

First you need to select and mark a piece of land where the supports will be installed and the cable will be laid. It is necessary that from the nearest big trees a distance of 1 meter was maintained. Also, during the installation process, it is necessary to avoid its intersection with other cables and other places of increased load on the ground.

Then you need to dig a trench as shown in the figure. Its depth should be at least 70 cm, taking into account the cushion - about 80 cm. The trench must be cleared of solid objects that could damage the cable sheath.

The cable is laid on a pre-prepared sand cushion a layer of at least 5 cm, ideally about 10 cm.

Before laying in a trench, a cable for outdoor installation must be checked for integrity using a megger or a digital tester - a “tseshka”.

The outdoor cable must be laid in a “snake” pattern to avoid interference.

After which it is necessary to fulfill the following conditions: cover the cable with sand (layer thickness - 10 cm), soil (15 cm layer), compact this place with your feet, lay a warning tape (when carrying out earthworks do not damage the cable!), so that its middle is located above the cable.

Next, completely fill the trench, making a small hill. The soil should settle over time. Finally, measure the cable insulation resistance again to make sure that the cable was not damaged during installation.

How to lay communications over the air?

If the cable does not have any design load-bearing element, then when laying by air it is recommended to use galvanized steel cable. If the length of the cable to be laid does not exceed 80 meters, then the cross-section of the cable should be from 1 to 1.5 mm 2.

The cable is laid in the air with its direct fastening along the entire length to the cable using nylon ties every 50 cm. The cable does not need to be pulled all the way. It is better to attach it to a cable with a little slack.

Naturally, a cable with a built-in cable is much faster and easier to lay through the air.

Which method and cable is better?

The aerial method of laying electrical communications is more expedient if you need to lay a street cable several meters long. It will be much faster, but less aesthetically pleasing and reliable. Underground - higher quality and more durable. It is better to resort to this method when there is quite a significant distance from the pole to the house. It is also more suitable for organizing a full-fledged outdoor lighting system.

For the aerial method, it is better to use cables with a built-in cable.

It is more expedient to lay underground armored cable VBBShV, but you can limit yourself to VVG. Here the final choice is made by the customer depending on his financial capabilities.

When installing or repairing wiring, you have to install wires and cables. Also, if it is necessary to install a new powerful household appliances Sometimes you have to draw a separate line from . In any case, you have to somehow mount the wires to the walls or ceiling. We will further examine what the cable fastening may be like for each of these cases.

General rules

When installing cables hidden or open, indoors or outdoors, there are several general rules:

Basically, that's all the recommendations. They are versatile and uncomplicated. The distance can be reduced if necessary. For example, at turns of the route, the fasteners are installed at a short distance from the bend point - 5-10 cm. The task is to ensure reliable fixation and prevent sagging.

Methods of attachment to different surfaces

Walls and ceilings are made from various materials having different structure and density. Depending on this characteristic, the method of fastening changes:

Actually, these are all the surfaces that are encountered inside the house when laying wiring. But sometimes the cable also needs to be attached to a pole, for example, when the electricity supply from the pole to the house stretches, or to a pipe - when the cable rises along a flammable wall.

To a concrete pillar

The cable is secured to the reinforced concrete pole with long black plastic ties. They last about 5 years.

You can use clamps for installation sewer pipes, but you have to drill holes for them, which is very difficult. Another option is if there is a grounding wire on the pole - a round wire with a diameter of 5-6 mm, then you can attach it to it with ties. Another option is to attach strips of metal to the pole - make something like clamps, and attach the cable to them.

In a metal pipe

If the cable runs up the wall of a house in a metal pipe, it is simply run inside. Since quite solid cables are used for external wiring, its rigidity is usually enough to more or less stay inside the pipe.

The pipe is closed at the top and bottom with some kind of plug (can be cut out of foam plastic and then painted along with the pipe). This plug will additionally fix the position of the cable (do not press it to the edge), and so that it does not move inside the pipe, it is attached to the wall at the exit from it.

To the cable

To attach the cable to the cable, special metal and plastic hangers are used. They consist of two parts - there is a hole for the cable and a larger one for laying cables.

Which is better - metal or plastic? Metal ones are more durable, but take longer to install - you need to tighten the screw. Plastic ones will last about 5 years, but are installed quickly - the “tail” is pulled into the corresponding hole and tightened. That's all.

Fastening for cables and wires: types and varieties

For any type of installation of electrical wiring and cables, the same types of fasteners can be used. It is selected based on the existing conditions, capabilities and tastes of the owners. The main task is to ensure high-quality fixation and not to disturb the insulation either during installation or during further work and operation. And you select the type of fastening from possible options. There are quite a lot of them - there are special ones that are produced specifically for cables, there are those borrowed from other areas, and there are homemade ones.

Clips for cable fastening

Using clips, you can secure the cable to the wall, ceiling, or floor. You'll just have to pick it up correct design, and there are many of them. Fastening the cable with clips is a very popular method - it can turn out very neatly and almost imperceptibly. This is if open wiring is assumed.

Clips for cable installation are available in metal and plastic, and different shapes. The simplest ones look like a bow, which has holes for screws or dowels on one side and the other. They are all good, but installation requires drilling two holes, which takes a lot of time.

There is an option that allows you to maintain a fire gap when installing the power cable on combustible surfaces (pictured on the left). This fastener is fixed to the surface with one self-tapping screw. The good thing about it is that, if necessary, you can add threads to the same fastener. To do this, you do not have to remove it, you will need to unscrew the screws holding it top part clips.

The third option is a kind of loop made from a strip of metal. To install it, you first need to insert the cables inside, then align the holes and secure them to the surface.

All these clips can be used both on the wall and on the ceiling. But when laying a large number of threads on the ceiling, they are inconvenient - too many holes are required for installation. They are made of metal, some of them are then painted so that when installed externally, the fasteners stand out less.

Plastic clips are used mainly for fastening cables in corrugated hoses. There they are different sizes under various diameters corrugations. They can be installed individually or assembled in lines - for more accurate installation of large wiring bundles. This type of clips is used mainly for hidden installation, but if the corrugation is laid outside, then it is more convenient to fix it with their help.

Dowel clip

A dowel-clip is more invisible during installation. This is a curved strip of plastic with characteristic branches at the ends, which, due to elastic force, will hold the fasteners in the wall or ceiling material. The shape of these products is available for round and flat cables of different sizes. But you can’t secure serious cables with them—they’re too small. But they look very neat on conductors of small cross-sections, including television, telephone and Internet.

They are installed simply: a hole of a suitable diameter is drilled, a conductor is inserted into the clip, the ends are tucked into the hole and inserted there with force. It’s a really good option - it’s quick to install and looks neat. Mainly used for open wiring.

Dowel tie

Another option for quickly attaching the cable is a dowel tie. It is made from non-flammable, self-extinguishing plasticizers and allows for quick installation of cable lines. Can be used for both open and hidden installation.

A dowel tie is a quick and convenient way to secure a cable to concrete, brick and other surfaces

There is a coupler with a detachable and permanent lock. The detachable lock allows you to change the number of wires if necessary. The installation method is the same as for a regular dowel. The difference is that the dowel here is also plastic.

Cable ties with dowel platform (KSP)

Another option for quick installation. It consists of a dowel with a thread and a platform with a tie attached to it. First, a dowel is installed, and a platform with a screed is screwed onto it. Wires are attached to the finished route.

KSP - cable tie with mounting platform for dowel

Material: non-flammable plastic, color: grey, temperature of use: from -45°C to +85°C. Can be mounted on concrete, brick and wooden surfaces.

Clips (staples) with a nail

An excellent option for attaching cables to dense surfaces - wood and its derivatives, plaster. There is a hole on the side of the plastic bracket into which a nail is inserted. The shape of the brackets is round and rectangular - for different shapes of conductors.

Fastening the cable with such brackets is quick and unobtrusive. Most often, small wires are also attached - television, telephone, for the Internet.

U-shaped staples from a stapler

Even the smallest staples and clips are still quite noticeable. There is a way to make fasteners virtually invisible, at least in some cases. If available wooden surfaces or plaster, wires and telephone cables can be secured with special brackets. They have long legs and a rounded back. There are special stapler staples designed for installing cables with plastic limiters(middle picture). They do not allow the wire to be crushed, which happens when working with conventional staples if too much force is applied to the trigger mechanism.

A good method is high speed - just one click on the stapler lever and the staple is already installed. In an hour you can record a decent amount of footage. Another positive point is that the fasteners are hardly noticeable; when dismantled, very small holes remain in the wood, which are also practically invisible. With plaster and chipboard, OSB is somewhat more complicated - the damage may be greater, however, it is still less noticeable than from nails, even the smallest ones.

The disadvantage of fastening cables with a stapler is significant size limitations. Such staples are not big. Maximum size the width of the staple is 12.5 mm, and even then not in all types. This is more than enough for installing a telephone “noodle”, Internet cable or other similar conductors, but it is not always possible to secure the NYM in this way. In addition, these cables have more rigid insulation, which requires more frequent installation of staples.

Fasteners for organizing a bundle of conductors

Wires do not always need to be fixed permanently. In some cases, you just need to arrange the bundles so that they do not get confused. For example, there are usually quite a few wires running to the desktop. There is no point in fixing them rigidly - after a while, alterations may be required, and the driven nails leave holes that can no longer be masked on the table. There are various devices for these purposes. They are more often called wire or cable holders.

For example, the same staples, but of a different structure. On the right side of the photo above you can see a cable clip with double-sided adhesive tape attached to the back. For mounting on furniture or plastic panels this is very convenient - the glue can then be washed off, but the surface remains intact. In the center is the second option with the same idea, and on the left is the so-called mounting area for attaching cable ties. First, these pads are attached to the surface - they also have Velcro on the back. The bundle of wires is then secured to the holes with a regular plastic tie. Not so convenient and neat (the tails of the ties will stick out), but can also be used.

Plastic cable holders on the table

You can see several more options for attaching the electrical wiring harness in the photo above. The essence is the same, the methodology is different.

Cable trays - for hidden laying of large bundles

When installing, you have to lay a large number of wires, and they have to be fixed to ceiling. When it comes to apartments, the floors are most often a concrete slab. Drilling a lot of holes in it is difficult and time-consuming; attaching wires individually or in small groups is not much easier. For such cases, suspended cable trays are used. They are usually made from galvanized wire or perforated metal.

They come in different sizes, there are several different types fastenings - on studs attached to the ceiling, on “T” or “L”-shaped hangers.

The installation procedure is as follows: first, the structure is assembled and mounted on the ceiling, then the cables are thrown into it. If desired, they can be secured with zip ties to the grilles, but this is usually not necessary.

In addition, there are metal trays made of perforated and non-perforated metal. The latter are necessary when laying cables inside combustible walls - for example.

The same trays can be used when laying cables in underground spaces. But then you can use the perforated version. It will also provide excellent protection against rodents and accidental damage.

Homemade cable fastening devices

Many factory-made fixtures have a relatively low price, but when hundreds of them are required, the cost adds up to a considerable amount. And if the wiring is hidden, you need, for example, to secure the cable in a groove, why wall up extra money if you can get by with improvised means. This is what they're made of homemade mount cable:

These are the main types of cable fasteners that you can make yourself. Surely there are other options - the imagination of craftsmen is inexhaustible, but these are the most common.

Concealed installation fastener

If cables are laid during the renovation stage, they increasingly resort to laying them inside walls, floors or ceilings. Since the result of the work is invisible, minimal attention is paid to aesthetics. But a lot of attention is paid to reliability and safety - access for alterations is very, very complicated. Therefore, when laying cables inside the wall, ceiling, or under the floor, reliable fasteners are chosen. It can be:

To lay large bundles of wires on the ceiling, it is more convenient and faster to use trays, but you can still use the same fasteners. The only bad thing is that you have to drill a lot of holes to install fasteners in concrete or brick. This is especially inconvenient when working on the ceiling. Below you will find out how best to optimize the work in this case.

If the presence of false walls or a finished floor is not expected, recesses are made for the wires - grooves. Wires are laid in them, then they are covered with a solution and then they are produced finishing. From an aesthetic point of view, the option is ideal. From an operational point of view, it is problematic, since it is almost impossible to replace or repair wiring without breaking the walls. Nevertheless, wiring is done exactly this way, simply trying to lay high-quality cables, and even with at least some reserve in terms of power or number of pairs.

According to safety rules, in combustible walls (wooden, panel and frame) the cable is laid in a non-combustible sheath or in an all-metal tray. If we are talking about a non-flammable shell, then it is usually a corrugated pipe made of non-flammable plastic. In this case, the sheath itself is attached, inside which the cable is located. This does not particularly affect the choice of fastening type, but it does affect the selection of fastener sizes - it is simply necessary that the fasteners be able to cover the shell.

Laying cables inside combustible walls is difficult: the requirements are very stringent. They can be made in frame or panel houses, but in timber or log cabins it is very difficult. It is necessary to lay all-metal trays in the walls. In this case, a large amount of wood has to be removed, which does not improve thermal characteristics and it’s not possible to make the appearance perfect. Because in wooden houses More often they resort to an open installation method - on top of the walls.

Fasteners for open cable routing

When laying cables externally, about appearance more stringent requirements are imposed on fasteners. Since everything is in plain sight, it is necessary to select the most inconspicuous options or, conversely, the most decorative ones, such as retro wiring. This is a broad topic and it is described in detail. Other options:

There is a choice, but all methods are imperfect, so everyone decides for themselves how and with what to attach the cable.

Attaching cables to the ceiling

There is a need to attach cables to the ceiling mainly when installing or installing drywall. In the case of plasterboard, everything is somewhat simpler: there is a system of suspensions to which you can fasten wiring harnesses with plastic ties. In other cases, everything is somewhat more complicated: you have to drill a large number of holes for fasteners, because they use the same clips and brackets, and under each you need to install a dowel (if the ceiling is made of a concrete slab).

There are several ways to speed up installation:

• Using cable trays (described above).
• After attaching a number of lines to the ceiling, hang small wire harnesses from them using plastic ties.
• Use a long perforated strip of metal for fastening.

None modern home It is unthinkable without electrical equipment, just as human life in the 21st century is without electricity. Installation of electrical wiring is an obligatory stage of equipping a house or apartment with “life support systems”. At the same time, there was a constant increase in power consumption.

Why change

The rapid growth of the “domestic” current load is the factor that determines the need for a new one. Overwhelmingly residential buildings, built during the USSR, electrical wiring was used based on aluminum conductors without the use of protective grounding.

The only advantage of such electrical wiring is the minimal cost and ease of installation. But “Soviet” aluminum wiring is designed only to connect a minimum of devices. This is a TV, a lamp, a refrigerator, a radio and several other low-power appliances.

Electricians of yesteryear could not have imagined that their descendants would simultaneously connect a computer, a printer, an electric stove, a microwave oven, an air conditioner and a dozen other devices to this single-phase, without “ground”, aluminum household wiring.

For such a colossal load aluminum wires not calculated. An overload of current consumption can be fraught with any malfunctions, including fire. Replacing electrical wiring means reinstalling it from scratch using copper.

It makes no sense to carry out installation in only one room. And doing this by screwing new copper wires to old aluminum ones is also unacceptable due to completely different physical properties these metals.

Where to start

Installation of new electrical wiring should always begin with studying the PUE - Electrical Installation Rules, namely section 7.1 regarding home electrical wiring.

If you decide to connect a new home electrical network with your own hands, you will need to study the rules for laying the network in order to avoid mistakes that could lead to an accident and even a catastrophe - even the death of a person.

If you logically decide to entrust the installation of new electrical wiring to a specialist, knowing at least the basic rules will help you control his work.

Before installing electrical wiring, you need to decide on the following key points.

Decide on the type of input - single-phase (220V) or three-phase (380V). In the vast majority of cases, single-phase is used.

Three-phase input of electrical wiring is advisable only if the premises have a workshop or workshop where three-phase asynchronous motors or similar equipment operate.

Next, you need to develop a wiring diagram. This is a detailed marking on the plan of an apartment or house of the locations of sockets, switches, main current consumers and - most importantly - the lines going to them from the distribution panel. In case of complex work, a routing With detailed description order of actions.

It is imperative to calculate the total power of the maximum one-time energy consumption of all appliances in the house - it is not recommended if it exceeds 5.5 kW, since large power is usually not allocated for domestic purposes.

The maximum number of consumers that will be allowed to work simultaneously is taken into account. Usually this is a refrigerator, lighting systems, computer and router, TV, heating systems (if electric), split system, washing machine.

Separation of sections and choice of installation type

On wiring diagram It is necessary to divide areas according to load level. In order to save on cable costs for the weakest consumers - lighting lamps, sockets for charging low-power electronics (players, phones) copper cable with a cross-section of 1.5 mm, for the main group (almost all household appliances) - 2.5 mm, for the most powerful - electric stove - copper with a cross-section of 4 mm is used. The input cable must have a cross-section of at least 6 mm for each conductor.

An important step is to choose the type of installation - open (in cable ducts) or hidden (inside the walls - walled in plaster, hidden behind panels).

With a tape measure in hand, you need to measure the required amount of cable of each type, purchase the cable and all components - a meter, circuit breakers and RCDs (according to the diagram), the box itself for mounting the switchboard, if required.

According to modern standards for installing electrical wiring, a separate circuit breaker is installed for each group of consumers - stove, main household appliances, lighting. short circuit, and a separate RCD - residual current device - to protect people living in the house from electric shock.

Once you have decided on the diagram and type of new electrical wiring, you can begin installing it. In this case, first of all, the electrical wiring in the house is fully installed, and only in the second place it is connected to the common panel and the electric meter.

The final installation of electrical wiring is always performed by a full-time electrician. management company or HOA, because. the meter must be sealed.

Basic Rules

Or the house is carried out only in accordance with the PUE. But, despite the apparent severity, most of the basic rules for installing electrical wiring are not so difficult to follow. Here is a short list of them:

• during installation, convenient access to all the main elements of electrical wiring must be provided - circuit breakers, RCDs, sockets, switches and distribution boxes (boxes must not be tightly walled up);
• the installation height of the switch is from 60 to 150 cm from the floor, the installation location is on the opposite side from the one where the door opens;
• electrical wiring must be laid only vertically or horizontally; diagonal or free bending is not permitted;
• the socket is installed at a height of 30 cm (European standard) to 80 cm (accepted in Russia for safety during flooding) from the floor;
• the distance from the outlet to the gas or electric stove, heating radiator and any pipes is at least half a meter;
• The horizontal electrical wiring line is mounted no closer than 15 cm to the ceiling or floor, vertical - no closer than 10 cm to the edge of the door or window;
• the distance between parallel cables is at least 3 mm, or each cable must be in a protective casing (corrugated or armored pipe);

Cable installation should only be on terminals inside distribution boxes (socket boxes can play their role). The connection of cores by twisting, wrapped with electrical tape, is unacceptable.

As a last resort, the twist should be soldered and insulated using cambric - heat-shrinkable tubing. Be sure to take care of grounding. If it was not there, it must be mounted and connected to common bus bolted connection.

Cable selection

The main materials used for installing electrical wiring, logically, include cable. Neglect correct selection cables for electrical wiring are not allowed, since at best this will only lead to an increase in the cost of installing the system, and at worst - to wiring failure, breakdown, electric shock or fire.

There is a huge variety of power cables on the market - and this is not counting cables for low-current systems - alarms, video surveillance, communication systems. In order not to make a mistake with the choice, let’s make a reservation right away: for installing household electrical wiring, you can only use the following types of power (!) cables:

• PVA (limited - for lighting only).

It is strictly prohibited to use power wires for other purposes, for example, communication cables.

VVG cable is a Russian single-core copper cable (it is recommended to choose the one whose packaging says “made according to GOST” and not according to TU), specially designed for indoor installation in premises.

It can be used for installation of electrical wiring in networks with voltages up to 1000 V. Inside the cable there are 2 or 3 copper conductors, each with a cross-section from 1.5 to 10 mm (depending on the type of cable). Each core has individual insulation, all three are additionally protected by a common one. Insulation material - vinyl.

For systems with grounding (mandatory requirement), a three-core cable is used. Marking - VVG 3*1.5 (3 cores with a cross-section of 1.5 mm) - for lighting, VVG 3*2.5 - installation of wiring for household appliances, VVG 3*4 - installation of a line for an electric stove, VVG 3*6 (or 3*10) - entry of electrical wiring into the house. A vein in blue insulation is always (!) zero, in yellow-green insulation it is earth, in brown, black or white it is phase.

NYM cable is a German analogue of VVG, characterized by an additional layer of intermediate insulation for fire protection. Its advantage is the possibility of installation without additional insulation in rooms with high humidity, as well as ease of cutting (due to the design feature).

The disadvantage is the higher price than VVG, as well as the low resistance to sunlight inherent in the PVC from which its insulation is made. This cable is recommended for installation in cable ducts or grooves, but not in the ground or on outdoors. The marking is completely similar to VVG.

PVS is, strictly speaking, not a cable, but a wire. It consists of three stranded conductors, and is much more flexible than VVG or NYM. But the current load that flexible multi-cores can withstand is significantly lower than single-core.

PVA with a cross section of 1.5 mm can only be used for installation ceiling lighting, in this case it is impossible to do without crimping the ends of the cores with lugs. It cannot be used for other electrical wiring elements.

Open and closed laying methods

There are essentially only 2 main methods of installing electrical wiring: open, also called external or external, and closed - internal. The first installation method is simpler - it involves laying cables outside the walls, in cable channels.

First, a cable channel is attached to the wall using dowels and self-tapping screws, then the cable is pulled inside it. When installing electrical wiring in an open manner, switches and sockets are also used externally. The advantages of this method are speed of installation, cleanliness and easy access to wiring.

There is one drawback to this installation method, but it is significant - it gives the room a completely “office” look, so residential buildings and apartments, installation of wiring in cable ducts is rarely used, in case of emergency.

The most common way to install wiring in a home is in a hidden way, which can also be divided into two subspecies. The first type is installation on a wall, which is then covered with panels or plasterboard slabs, and the second is installation inside non-load-bearing walls in slotted niches called grooves.

The last installation method is the most difficult, but the most durable. Wiring embedded in the wall and properly connected can last 30-50 years.

How does a closed gasket go?

Installation of hidden electrical wiring is carried out according to the following algorithm.

First, use a level, pencils or markers to mark the wall, determining the lines for laying the cables. In this case, the presence of previous wiring is checked using a special tester. Before installation, the points for inserting sockets, switches, installing lamps, distribution boxes - right up to the panel - are also marked on the wall before installation.

Using an impact drill or a hammer drill with a crown attachment, niches for sockets and switches are cut out in the marked places.

After this, use a grinder, a hammer drill with a chisel attachment or a hammer (in hard to reach places) grooves for laying cables are cut strictly along the marking lines. The depth of the groove is about 2 cm.

The wires are laid (they can be lightly “grabbed” with alabaster), socket boxes and distribution boxes are installed.

The first is the main wire VVG 3*2.5 (or NYM 3*2.5). It fits into the groove of the main line - from the socket boxes to the distribution boxes, and from them to the main panel. IN distribution boxes Lighting cables with a cross-section of 1.5 are connected to it using terminals.

Installation of an electrical wiring line for heavy loads, with a cross-section of 4 mm ( electric stove, boiler) is carried out only in a separate line.

The socket boxes are planted on a gypsum mixture. After installing all electrical wiring lines, the entire system is tested with a tester. If no errors are found, then you can proceed to finishing the grooves with plaster and installing sockets and switches.

Shield installation

This is the most difficult and critical part of installing an electrical network. Circuit breakers and RCDs are installed in the panel according to the diagram that was determined earlier.

The shield includes a thick input cable from the common house bus and through intermediate devices distributed throughout the room. So, for a lighting group you can use a 16 A machine and a 25A/30mA RCD, for household appliances - a 25A machine and a 40A/30mA RCD, and so on.

Please note that the selection and arrangement of devices in the panel, as well as final installation The electrical panel should only be installed by a professional!

The shield can either be placed in a niche, if there is one, or simply hung on the wall. Please note that when producing new installation electrical wiring in the apartment, it is also necessary to replace the input to the house, that is, the connection to the common house bus.

In this case, you will have to disconnect the old electrical wiring input from the electric meter and connect a new one, which entails the need to reseal the meter. Optionally, you can try to get the meter moved into your home, but energy supply companies do not always allow this.

VVG-ng is a copper flexible cable in flame retardant polyvinyl chloride insulation. It has both round and flat designs, which is convenient for some types of installation. Today, VVG-ng cable is considered the most common cable product for installing electrical wiring, both in residential and industrial premises.

Cable brand VVG-ng according to technical specifications has different designs of single-core and multi-core cores, and according to GOST, the mass of cross-sections of the current-carrying core. The VVG-ng cable is designed for an operating alternating voltage of 660V and higher, with a frequency of 50 Hz. The permissible temperature on the conductor is + 70 ° C, and the operating range is not limited to the territory Russian Federation. Permissible temperature when installing the VVG-ng cable, not lower than -10 °C.

The bend when installing the wire should be 10 diameters for single-core cables, and 7.5 diameters for multi-wire cables. The service life of this brand of cable is more than 30 years.

Types of installation of VVG-ng cable

1. Open method:

Based on the technical characteristics of the cable, its open laying on surfaces and structures made of non-flammable or low-flammable materials such as gypsum, concrete, brick, plastered surface, etc. is allowed. Open cable laying along suspended structures, such as a cable, etc., is also not excluded. ensuring reliable installation and preventing mechanical stress on the cable such as sagging and stretching.

If there is a risk of cable damage mechanically additional protection must be installed. Also, additional protection should be used when installing cables in an open manner on combustible wooden surfaces and installation should be carried out using protection such as a cable duct, corrugated hose, metal hose, pipes, etc.

2. Laying the cable along cable-supporting structures:

Cable-supporting structures include pipes, ducts, etc. This installation method is more suitable for production premises than for residential. When laying cables in production, one should take into account the category of premises in which cables and cable-supporting structures are being installed, as well as environmental factors.

On cable-supporting structures it is allowed to lay the VVG-ng cable in a bundle. The number of cables in a bundle is determined by the factors listed above and the technical characteristics of the structures, as well as the rules for electrical installations.

3. Hidden cable routing VVG-ng:

Hidden is the most common method of cable installation in residential premises. The cable is laid in grooves made, under plaster, in voids, etc. This method does not have the possibility of mechanical damage, so it does not require additional protection. Exceptions to void walls wooden houses, in which hidden cable laying in non-combustible materials, pipes, metal hose, etc. is allowed. Correct installation hidden gasket cable VVG-ng is determined by regulatory documents for hidden electrical wiring.

4. Laying cables in the ground:

The VVG-ng cable is not recommended for laying in the ground, since it does not have natural protection from mechanical stress, but it is possible to lay such a cable in the ground using additional protection such as pipes, tunnels, HDPE pipes, etc.

Any installation method must be performed in accordance with regulatory documents, technical characteristics of electrical equipment, rules for electrical installations (Chapter 2.1 Electrical wiring) with the involvement of qualified personnel who have access to this species works