Dry heated floor in wooden house or screed - a question that many people ask themselves who are planning to implement renovation work and install a heating system. The second option has long been more popular and has higher thermal conductivity, which means that the rooms with it are warmer and more comfortable.

A dry heated floor has less weight and does not create significant pressure on the floor beams. This main reason, which is why this technology is preferred in wooden houses over concrete screed. It can be used both in buildings under construction and in existing ones, and there is no need to wait a long time for the solution to dry completely. Using wet technology Before starting finishing work, you have to wait about 25-28 days. Installation of a dry floor is much faster, it produces less debris, and the room can be used soon after the start of work.

The disadvantages of the design include the fact that a number of elements in a dry screed are afraid of moisture, so during installation it is necessary to use additional waterproofing.

In what cases is dry heated floor used?

Dry underfloor heating is usually used under a number of conditions in which it is the most optimal solution. These include:

• Low room height. Also, raising the floor level may not be acceptable in accordance with certain architectural or design solutions. The minimum thickness of a dry floor can start from 35 mm, while for a conventional screed it is at least 80 mm.
• Weak overlaps. The weight of a dry system does not exceed 30 kg per 1 m2, while concrete screed this figure can reach 300 kg. In frame and panel houses such a load is unacceptable.

There are several technologies for arranging a dry heated floor in a wooden house, which depend on what flooring will be used in the future, and what screed materials are relevant in this or that case.

Important! Whatever technology you choose, you should always remember to pre-prepare the surface. It must be thoroughly cleaned of any debris and leveled to the permissible difference (2 mm per linear meter).

Dry heated floor in a wooden house under laminate

The technology for installing a dry heated floor in a wooden house under a laminate has its own characteristics. First of all, you need to choose the right coating that is suitable for these purposes. the best way. Here you need to consider the following:

1. Laminate itself has a fairly low thermal conductivity and is a good heat insulator. To ensure that the heated floor works as efficiently as possible, give preference to boards of small thickness.
2. Laminate, which belongs to a high class, is resistant to temperature and humidity, and is less susceptible to drying out and deformation.
3. When choosing a substrate for laminate flooring, it is better to give preference to materials that are specifically designed for underfloor heating systems.

Technology for laying dry water floors under laminate

A water-heated floor in a wooden house with a dry screed laid under a laminate is not the best solution in terms of heat transfer. At the same time, this method is the fastest for insulating the surface, and even if it is not enough to heat the surrounding space, you will ensure pleasant walking on heated boards.

Installation is carried out as follows:

1. A waterproofing layer is laid on the surface.
2. Backfilling in progress bulk material, which is ordinary sand, expanded clay screenings or professional dry mix.
3. Beacon profiles are installed, with the help of which the future floor is leveled.
4. One of the most important points is the installation of profiled aluminum plates that perform a heat distribution function.
5. Laying pipes in the recesses of the plates.

Important! After this action, check the floor surface again and make sure there are no holes or bumps. You can move along the poured surface using a “bridge” - a sheet of plywood that is moved to the right place.

1. A porous tape is installed around the entire perimeter of the room, dampening noise from impact loads.
2. The floor is covered with sheet materials, which can be OSB, plasterboard or plywood. The layers must be made with overlapping seams, fastening them with self-tapping screws at a distance of 15 cm for OSB and plywood, and 5 cm for plasterboard.
3. A substrate of minimum thickness with the maximum available thermal conductivity is installed.
4. Laminate flooring is being installed.

Tip: Laminate is sensitive to rapid temperature changes, so if you want it to last as long as possible, do not heat the floor more than 5 degrees per day. Also, do not allow its surface temperature to exceed 28 C.

Dry water heated floor using Finnish technology

Dry water heated floor Finnish technology– a good solution for installation on joists. A conventional concrete screed performs two main functions: it fixes the system and transfers heat upward. Due to its heavy weight, it cannot always be used in wooden houses, which is why a fairly effective alternative was invented. In the Finnish version, its role is played by gypsum fiber sheets, laid in several layers between pipe loops and forming the base. The voids between all components of the structure are filled tile adhesive. Attached from above in the usual way finishing material.

A warm water floor over wooden logs using GVL is lightweight and has a permissible load on the floors. Compared with regular drywall This material is more resistant to bending and deformation, and at the same time has increased thermal conductivity. The required height Screed can be easily achieved by simply fastening the slabs together with tile adhesive. Gypsum fiber sheets also have the following advantages:

• Affordable price.
• Ease of processing.
• Environmental friendliness.
• Fire safety.

Another advantage of such a floor is that in the event of a leak, it is much easier to carry out repairs than with a concrete screed.

Tip: Today, for dry screeding of heated floors, not only gypsum plasterboard is used, but also sheets of chipboard, OSB or plywood. On sale you can find ready-made kits, the material in which already has the shape necessary for convenient installation.

How to install a dry screed using Finnish technology

Installation of a water floor using Finnish technology involves a standard installation algorithm, regardless of the type of slabs used. In order for heat to be properly distributed and rise upward, it is necessary to pay great attention to insulating materials: a vapor barrier is laid between the joists, insulation is placed on it, and then another layer of vapor barrier that will protect the wood from condensation.

If you do not use a ready-made dry screed kit, the further installation technology will be as follows. Using self-tapping screws, GVL sheets are attached to the logs, onto the surface of which the further route of the water pipes is applied. After this, they begin cutting the material into strips and attaching it to the base.

Tip: The distance between the strips of gypsum fiber boards should be slightly larger than the diameter of the pipes. This will make it more convenient for you to carry out installation, and in the future, all voids in any case will need to be filled with tile adhesive.

Floor in the bathroom of a wooden house with dry screed for heated floors

Due to the processes occurring in the bathroom, special requirements are imposed on the structures and finishing materials used in this room. The greatest attention should be paid to the floor, as it is subject to greatest number water. If the room is on the second floor, it is important to take care not only that the coating lasts as long as possible, but also to be sure that the lower rooms are protected from leaks.

A bathroom floor in a wooden house with a dry heated floor screed will cost slightly more than a similar option in other rooms, since in this case a larger amount of materials is used. The most optimal technology is considered to involve the use of specialized mixtures that can be purchased at any hardware store. First, the surface with a layer of vapor barrier laid on it is covered with expanded clay material, on which the dry screed is distributed. Sheets of moisture-resistant plasterboard are mounted on top, which will protect the system from moisture penetration from the outside. As in other cases, the perimeter is sealed with a special polyethylene tape that dampens impact noise.

This technology for laying a dry, warm water floor in a bathroom is the least labor-intensive and there is practically no dirt during operation. The main disadvantage in this case is the inability to withstand high loads.

One of the most important stages When laying dry screed in a bathroom, it is necessary to prepare a waterproofing layer. Experienced specialists suggest using bitumen mastic or rolled materials. With their help, you can protect not only the floor itself, but also the base of the walls, which are captured to a height of up to 20 cm.

Advice : instead of conventional moisture-resistant gypsum, you can use Knauf gypsum boards, which are strong enough and can withstand weights of up to 1000 kg per square meter. This option will be optimal for rooms where it is planned to use heavy finishing materials for the floor and large furniture.

Water-heated floor: dry installation on foam plastic on a wooden floor

Foam plastic has excellent thermal insulation properties, and therefore it is widely used in construction for insulating structures. Also, its advantage is its low weight, which does not affect the overlap. Thanks to these features, dry installation of water heated floors on foam plastic is often carried out on wooden floors. This material has a number of other advantages, namely:

• Characterized by zero water absorption.
• Does not allow moisture and steam to pass through.
• Has excellent noise-absorbing properties.
• Withstands significant loads.
• Has an affordable price.

Using polystyrene foam, you can finish the surface for a water-heated floor, even without special construction skills. This material is easily cut and mounted on a surface of any configuration. Along with its low price, it is characterized by a fairly long service life, for which it is valued by consumers. The only significant drawback of polystyrene foam is its flammability: it will ignite at temperatures above 180 degrees, and emits environment toxic substances that normally do no harm.

Advice: If you plan to install a heated floor with foam insulation on the first floor of a building, it is better to give preference to slabs with a thickness of 8-10 cm. On other floors, 4-5 cm will be quite enough.

The technology for installing a dry heated floor on foam plastic on a wooden floor is as follows. Thermal insulation boards are the base that is laid on the coating. Next, heat distribution metal plates made of galvanized steel or aluminum are placed on them. They not only ensure uniform heating of the floor surface, but also secure the system pipes inserted into their grooves. Additional rigidity is provided by two sheets of gypsum fiber board, which are placed on top in a checkerboard pattern. The recommended thickness of this coating is 1 cm.

When arranging a warm water floor under a screed on a wooden base, you can use either ordinary polystyrene foam or more modern materials– polystyrene or penoplex. They have a higher cost, but at the same time significantly benefit in their characteristics. The slabs have different markings, which is an indicator of their density.

Tip: More comfortable than regular smooth foam are polystyrene mats with ridges. Metal plates with pipes are laid out in the space between them, where they are securely fixed and do not move during subsequent use. The side surfaces of such slabs have special mounting locks that allow them to be connected into a continuous sheet.

Conclusion. Dry screed is much faster than concrete screed, requires much less labor and is lightweight. All this makes it ideal for use in wooden houses, where high loads on the floors are unacceptable. At the same time, it is more susceptible to moisture, and therefore requires more careful attention to the construction of the waterproofing layer.

To install a heated floor in a wooden house, you need to consider several important parameters, including structural features, the preferred type of flooring, and also follow the recommendations of specialists on the selection of materials and installation.

Possibility of installation

If the requirements are met, underfloor heating on a wooden floor can be the optimal solution.

Among the specific restrictions, it must be taken into account that wood should not be exposed to temperatures exceeding 30ºC, since it can deteriorate, quickly losing its performance. For this reason, a local heat source must be provided in the house. Among modern developments, you can select boilers adapted for separate connection of underfloor heating and heating radiators due to the presence of two circuits with different degrees of heating.

Installation of water heated floor

Heating of the floor surface covered with parquet boards or laminate is limited to a temperature of 25ºC in order to eliminate formaldehyde fumes that are unsafe for health.

Necessary materials

In order to install a water heated floor without much difficulty if you have a wooden house, you need to stock up on high-quality materials suitable for specific conditions.

If the water floor is installed without a screed, then you will need slabs - cement-bonded, wood-polymer, gypsum-fiber. Experts rarely recommend using chipboard, since such boards can deform when exposed to moisture.

Since it is recommended to connect heated floors installed over wooden joists to autonomously functioning boilers, it is necessary to analyze them to determine the most cost-effective type.

The greatest autonomy and independence from various energy sources - main gas or electricity - is shown by a boiler operating on diesel fuel. The gas analogue turns out to be cheaper in terms of monthly expenses.

To equip a water heated floor, they are also in demand solid fuel boilers. They ensure uninterrupted functioning of the heated floor, working on wood. Electrical equipment turns out to be ineffective in conditions where there are interruptions in the energy supply.

Adjustment and Settings

The elements necessary for setting up the equipped heated floors are placed in the manifold. These are devices that regulate flow, valves, mechanisms that provide emergency drainage, and air vents.

By design, the collector is a pipe with the right amount bends This solution makes it possible to connect several circuits from the heated floor to the main line at once, providing the supply of heated water and the collection of cooled (return) liquid.

Simplified versions have only shut-off valves, which does not allow practically adjusting the operation of the water heating system. It is advisable to select collectors with control valves, with the help of which the water flow in any area is regulated, ensuring uniform heating of the room.

There are automated models of collectors, but their price is very high and they are rarely used in private homes.

Temperature control without a water heated floor mixer

Types of pipes

To lay a water floor, pipes with a cross-section of 16, 18 or 20 mm, made of different materials, are used.

• Copper ones are the most expensive, which is compensated by a long operating period.

  

• Metal-plastic pipes are more affordable, being in the middle price range. They are characterized by resistance to corrosion, are easy to bend and process. Due to their low coefficient of thermal expansion, they are one of the best options for water heated floors.

  

• The same price category includes pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene with additional reinforcement. They are in their own way technical specifications not inferior to metal-plastic. Additionally, high wear resistance, impact strength and toughness are noted. This material allows you to equip a reliable water-heated floor, since it does not collapse even under the influence of sub-zero temperatures.

  
  

• Are considered a budget option polypropylene products. Please note that unreinforced polypropylene varieties are recommended for cold water, therefore, in order to equip a water heated floor, you should purchase reinforced analogues. They can serve for quite a long time, the average service life is 25 years.

  

Experts do not recommend pipes made of ferrous metals for water floor heating for a number of reasons:

Assortment of fittings

In order to reliably install a water heated floor using the most suitable metal-plastic pipes, you need to purchase fittings for making connections.

1. Collet (threaded) – detachable. They are convenient because they allow repeated operations of separating elements and their subsequent assembly. The package includes a brass main part with protective coating, rubber sealing gasket, ferrule. There are several types of detachable fittings:

1. Press fittings are one-piece; for installation they require the use of a special tool, which can be a press machine, press pliers with manual or microprocessor control. There are several types of press fittings:

Compression - conditionally detachable fittings, consisting of a fitting, a union nut, a ferrule, are usually not used for heated floors, as they are recommended for pipelines with cold water.

Advantages and disadvantages

Considering a warm floor in a wooden house, the following positive characteristics are noted:

• the possibility of using it as the dominant heat source;
• obtaining evenly distributed heat not only on the floor plane, but throughout the entire volume of the room;
• more economical operation compared to electrical systems;
• compatibility with almost all types of floor coverings (tiles, laminate, linoleum, carpet, etc.);

Among the disadvantages of a water floor mounted on a wooden base is the risk of leaks. This is compensated for by proper installation.

Video: Pros and cons of water heating

Few people can be surprised by warm floors. The time has passed when it was considered an attribute of ultra-comfortable housing. Today it is installed everywhere to make your home even warmer and more comfortable. Owners wooden buildings could not install such a system because traditional technologies styling does not allow this.

With the advent of the flooring system, it is possible to lay warm water floors on a wooden floor without the slightest problem. We will tell you about all the popular options for installing an underfloor heating system based on lumber floors. Independent home craftsmen will find a lot of useful tips.

Water-type floors are a very practical way to heat a home. The system is a liquid heating circuit mounted under the floor covering.

Traditional technology assumes that the pipes lie in a concrete screed. A boiler is usually used to heat the coolant supplied to the circuit. Standard models heat the liquid up to 60-90ºС, which is unacceptable for heated floors.

If you put coolant at this temperature into the circuit, the floor will warm up to 45-60ºС. It will be impossible to walk on it. SNiPs regulate the permissible temperature for heated floors. This is no more than 30ºС.

To obtain this value, it will be enough to heat the liquid in the circuit to 35-45ºС. Therefore, they include in the water floor system. Here the hot liquid from the boiler heat exchanger and the cool liquid from the return pipe are mixed.

There is another simpler option. If you use a condensing type heating boiler mixing unit no need to install.

The design features of such boilers suggest the possibility of heating to relatively low temperatures. In some cases, the heated coolant is taken from centralized system, but this requires receiving special permission, which is not always possible to do.

A floor-type water-heated floor is a relatively lightweight design made of wooden or plastic elements, inside which heating pipes are located

Thus, the liquid entering the heating circuit, and this can be an antifreeze solution or water, heats the floor. This, in turn, heats the air. The result is fast and at the same time very uniform heating of the room.

A significant plus is the temperature distribution in the room that is most favorable for humans. Cool air accumulates in the upper part, warmer air accumulates in the lower part. It is precisely this microclimate that living organisms regard as comfortable. At the same time, convective flows, inevitable in the presence of point heat sources, are not observed.

Thanks to this, there is no transfer of dust and microorganisms. The advantages include minimal operating costs. All this makes water floors popular among users. Comparative analysis water and electrical systems underfloor heating, which we recommend familiarizing yourself with.

Features of the flooring system

The traditional version of a water-type floor involves installing pipes in a screed. It is poured with a concrete solution with special additives that increase its thermal conductivity.

As a result, the concrete pad becomes a kind of heat accumulator, which makes it possible to use such heating as efficiently as possible. However, the traditional arrangement method has disadvantages.

The wooden base has low thermal inertia, which prevents the system from functioning normally. To correct this drawback, heat-reflecting plates are installed from metal with high thermal conductivity.

The most obvious is too much weight of the concrete screed. With a solution density of about 2000 kg/sq. m it gives a significant additional load on the base and load-bearing structures.

For reinforced concrete slabs Such a load is quite manageable. For wooden floors - prohibitive. For this reason, the traditional installation method is prohibited in such cases. The so-called flooring system is used here.

It is made in the form of a low flooring, inside of which pipes are located. Wood is most often used for its arrangement, but industrially produced polystyrene flooring has appeared relatively recently.

The pipes are placed in grooves where they are secured. It is known that wood conducts heat very poorly. For this reason wooden systems cannot be an effective source of heat.

To correct this shortcoming, metal heat-conducting elements are inserted into each groove. They also strengthen the structure. There are similar details in polystyrene flooring with metal inserts, the material of which is also a poor heat conductor. In this way, a reliable and durable heating system is assembled.

Its advantages over its traditional analogue can be considered:

• Light weight of the flooring, which even wooden floors can withstand.
• Relatively easy assembly, especially if we're talking about about industrial flooring models.
• There is no need to wait for the concrete screed to harden. Finishing work can be done immediately after installation.
• Full maintainability. To carry out repair work, it is enough to lift a fragment of the flooring to provide access to the area with the fault.

Another undeniable dignity The flooring system is multi-variant, which makes it possible to implement a variety of modifications. Most of which are homemade. The main disadvantage of the flooring scheme is rapid cooling. The floor heats up in a short time and gives off heat just as quickly.

A big plus of a water-based floor is the possibility of relatively simple repairs. To get to the damaged fragment, it is enough to remove a section of the floor covering and remove the flooring underneath it

Actually, the heat supply is limited to that which is in coolant liquid in the pipes. Therefore, when the boiler is stopped, the room will soon cool down. For this reason, decking systems are more often used as an addition to, especially in cold regions.

Installation of a floor heating system

When laying a flooring system, you get a kind of multi-layer cake; let’s look at each layer in more detail.

Requirements for the foundation for the structure

The first layer of the cake is a properly prepared base. This can be any overlap that is pre-leveled. SNiPs regulate the absence of significant differences in heights, protrusions and roughness. The wooden floor must be level, without protruding boards.

Each board should be well secured and should not bend. The maximum permissible limit of deviation from the horizontal is 2 mm, distributed over 2 m of area in any of the existing directions.

Construction of the insulating layer

To prevent heat loss, it is necessary to install an insulating layer. The material for its implementation is selected individually, based on operating conditions. It must be moisture-resistant, fire-resistant and compatible with other building materials.

It is desirable that additional sound insulation be provided. If possible, the thinnest but most effective material is selected.

Pipe fixation option

The actual flooring under the pipes is laid on top of the insulation. There are many options here. These can be polystyrene mats with special bosses for pipes. Such mats are produced single and doubled with insulation.

In the latter case, the insulating layer may be superfluous. Sheets of lumber with cut grooves for pipes can be used as flooring. They are also produced industrially. There are also homemade floorings made from slats, bars, etc.

Pipe for moving coolant

If there is none, you can make similar elements from galvanized steel or wrap each part in thick foil. It is optimal to lay an additional layer of foil on top of the mounted pipes.

Construction of the foundation for finishing

A base must be laid on top of the pipes under the flooring. It is selected depending on what finishing coat will be laid.

If you plan to install tiles, ceramic or PVC, as well as linoleum or carpet, lay them on the metal elements of the wooden flooring moisture resistant drywall. If polystyrene mats were used to construct the flooring, GVL is laid in two layers.

The decking structure is usually covered with a base for the finishing coating. It is selected depending on the material that is preferred as a coating. For example, a moisture-absorbing substrate is placed under the laminate; moisture-resistant plasterboard or chipboard is placed under the tiles.

Under laminate on wood flooring Drywall is not installed. Instead, an absorbent is placed on aluminum plates. excess moisture foamed polyethylene or cardboard backing.

Instead of GVL, you can use moisture-resistant types of chipboard or plywood. A good solution is glass-magnesium sheets, which also conduct heat well, which is absolutely not superfluous when arranging a heated floor.

Options for arranging a water floor

Flooring under a water floor can be made by the most different ways, which is especially popular with home craftsmen. Let's consider several options for such designs.

Option #1. Implementation of a ready-made solution

This is the easiest method to implement. You can purchase a decking kit from a hardware store. There may be two types of such a solution. The first is polystyrene mats equipped with pipe fastenings.

They can be duplicated with a layer of insulation. In this case, they can be laid directly on the base. The main advantage of such mats is their extremely simple installation. However, they are not strong enough to install flooring directly onto mats.

Under soft coverings, as well as under tiles, you will have to lay two layers of gypsum board. The flooring can also be assembled from modules made from chipboard. They are factory-made with recesses for pipes with a certain system pitch. The modules are equipped with fasteners, metal heat-distributing plates and pipes.

Polystyrene mats – perfect solution for arranging a water floor. This option allows you to install a super-thin water floor that eats up a minimum of room height

To connect the parts together, a locking connection is provided, which greatly facilitates assembly. Such structures are quite durable and do not require additional reinforcement. Their main disadvantage is their high cost.

Any of the ready-made solutions requires careful preparation grounds. If it is an old floor, a thorough inspection is carried out. Damaged areas are discarded and repaired. The boards are securely fixed, height differences are eliminated. Then all debris and dust are removed and the base is primed.

After it has dried, insulation is laid and secured, if required. The next stage is laying the mats. On outside Each of them is applied with a suitable glue, usually “liquid nails”, and the plate is glued to the base. It is important that the glue sets well and holds the mat securely in place.

If it is intended to lay chipboard flooring, it is assembled in strict accordance with the instructions issued by the manufacturer. After the pipe channels are ready, installation begins. can be produced by a “snake”, “snail” or any other suitable method.

The elements are combined into a single system and connected to heating system. Next, pressure testing and testing of the functionality of the water floor is carried out, after which the installation of the floor covering begins.

Option #2. Flooring on joists

Work begins with preparation wooden base. If it is an old floor, all necessary repairs are carried out. Then you need to lay the logs on which the warm water floor will lie under the wooden floor. The prepared logs are set strictly according to the level with a distance between elements of about 0.6 m.

This is the best option; you can place parts at a greater distance. But in this case, thicker boards will be required to form the flooring.

Preparing the base is very important point. It is advisable to lay a new subfloor under the structure, but you can also use the old one if it is in good condition. All damaged areas must be repaired

If you want to save money, instead of a base, you can nail corners or slats to the joists, on which the insulating coating will rest. But you need to understand that in this case it should be hard and not friable. Insulation is laid on the prepared base. It could be polystyrene foam stone wool high density, polystyrene, etc.

After forming the heat-insulating carpet, they begin to manufacture the flooring. To do this, take boards with a thickness of at least 0.03 m. They begin to screw them to the beams. The first one is fixed at a distance of 0.02 m from the wall surface; a similar gap is made when fixing all other parts.

An important point is the choice of the width of the boards attached to the floor. It must correspond to the width of the metal heat distribution plates, which will subsequently be inserted into the resulting grooves.

The pipe will be laid in a “snake” pattern, which requires making grooves for its turns. To do this, leave special gaps about 0.15 m wide at equal distances from each other.

To form a bend in the pipe through which the coolant circulates, part of the boards is fixed at a certain distance from the wall

In practice, it looks like this: Two boards are screwed at a distance of 0.5 cm from the wall, the next two - at a distance of 5 - 7 cm. And so on until the end of the row.

On the opposite side of the base, those boards that were fixed to the wall are screwed at a distance, and those with a gap are screwed closely. This creates a groove for the bend of the pipe. After the entire flooring has been laid, the installation of heat distribution plates begins.

They are inserted into the grooves formed by the boards and securely secured with staples or regular nails. It is optimal for the sides of adjacent plates to meet.

Then a continuous heat transfer screen will be formed. Now you can start laying the pipes. It's easier to do it together. One worker will unwind the coil, and the second will do the actual laying.

With a little force, the part is pressed into the groove of the heat distribution plate. Return pipe It is best to run the contour loop along the wall under the flooring boards.

After the entire circuit has been laid, check again for correct installation and connect it to the heating system. The water floor must be pressure tested. Then you can begin preparing for laying the flooring.

Option #3. Guide design

They start by preparing the base. As in previous options, it must be leveled and strengthened. Then any suitable insulation is laid on the base.

Most simple method Laying a water floor is a “snake” type, so it is used most often. For a structure made of guides this will be the best option. To determine the dimensions of the parts, an accurate floor plan is drawn.

There are several options for laying a warm water floor. The simplest of all options is a snake; the figure shows its diagram

It marks the areas where the equipment serving the water floor will be installed and the places where the pipes will be connected. Then, with strict adherence to the selected laying step, guides are drawn. The number of required parts is calculated and their sizes are determined.

Now you need to prepare the guides. They are cut from any suitable and available material. After which you can begin installation. The parts must be laid on the base in strict accordance with the developed plan.

Each guide is placed on a rough base and securely attached to it with self-tapping screws. Between the parts there should be channels necessary for installing pipes. In areas where the pipeline turns, the sharp corners of the guides must be rounded so as not to accidentally damage the pipes.

After all the slats are secured to the base, begin laying the foil. To do this, take material with a thickness of at least 50 microns. The sheets are pressed into the channels, carefully going around each recess. Literally “laying out” foil on each channel.

To prevent the sheets from moving out of place, they are fixed to the slats using a stapler. For better heat transfer, it is advisable to wrap the pipes with the same foil before laying, but this is not necessary.

In order to make a smooth turn of the pipe and not accidentally damage it, the guides in the bending areas must be rounded. Their sharp corners are removed

Then the pipe is laid inside the prepared channels. To hold it in place, in some areas it is attached to slats or to the floor with metal plates. Upon completion of installation, the water floor is connected to the heating system and mandatory pressure testing is carried out. If it does not reveal any leakage problems, begin preparing for the installation of the finishing coating.

These are only three options for installing floor heating. In practice there are many more of them. Home craftsmen adapt them to their conditions, selecting available materials and suitable technologies.

You will be introduced to the rules, formulas and an example of calculating an underfloor heating system, which we highly recommend reading.

They can be purchased at any store. The only drawback of this solution is the high cost, but installation is simple and very quick. Lovers independent work They can simply assemble the flooring from scrap materials. It will turn out cheap and quite functional.

Please write comments in the block below. Tell us about how you built an underfloor heating system in your or a neighboring house with a wooden floor. Share useful information, ask questions, post photographs related to the topic of the article.

Heated floor technology allows you to solve the heating problem different houses. As you know, heated floors, unlike a radiator system, have many advantages. However, some may object that this heating method cannot be installed in a wooden house. In this article we will dispel this notion. Moreover, there are several truly working technologies that allow you to install a water-heated floor on a wooden base.

Is it possible

As already mentioned at the beginning of the article, many doubt how realistic it is to install a water-heated floor in a wooden house. It’s worth saying right away that this is not only possible, but also a completely reasonable solution. Of course, it is necessary to take into account some features and abandon the usual technologies, for example, pouring screed. But on the other hand, this also makes it easier to implement the task, because less labor will be required.

For example, in a wooden house it is prohibited to heat the floors above 30°C. Otherwise, the floor surface may become deformed. For this reason, a warm floor must have a mixing unit and a comb. Thanks to this device, the temperature will be lowered. Among other things, it is necessary to use temperature control. Here preference is given to the automatic system.

Moreover, it is necessary to pay attention Special attention choice of flooring material. Why? When heating materials such as parquet boards, laminate and linoleum above 25°C, it can lead to the release of toxic fumes, namely formaldehyde. This is explained by the fact that it is extremely important to clearly regulate and control the temperature of the underfloor heating fluid in a wooden house.

Possible difficulties

Among other things, you need to understand what difficulties you will encounter when performing such work. As you know, the operating principle of a heated floor is that the heated surface accumulates and then transmits thermal energy. In the traditional version, all this works very simply: the screed heats up and it accumulates heat, and then releases it into the room.

As for the system on a wooden field, the situation here is different. Wood is not a very good thermal conductor. Perhaps someone will think, why not pour a regular screed on a wooden floor? But in this case, it is necessary to take into account the fact that per 1m2 there will be a load of up to 300 kg. Of course, this is a huge load from the water system on the wooden floor.

Methods for installing heated floors

A warm water floor can be organized in several ways. Let's look at each of these technologies:

1. Use of special mats. This refers to structures in which there are grooves for laying the water circuit. The base floor is first leveled. For this, plywood or other board material is used. Using this modular system completely eliminates the need to use a screed. The laid water circuit is covered with DSP, and the finishing flooring material is installed on top of the base.
2. Concrete floors on wooden floors. As already mentioned, this option is not optimal due to the fact that a lot of pressure will be exerted on the ceiling. Moreover, it is necessary to perform high-quality waterproofing of all wooden elements. In this case, water heated flooring over a wooden floor will be quite expensive.
3. Floor milling. This method is not entirely easy, as it involves making special grooves in the wooden floor. In this case, the wooden floor will serve as mats. This method is the most accessible and inexpensive. After all, the cost of completing heated floors will be significantly reduced.

There is also another option for organizing underfloor heating. Warm floors over wooden joists will include laying heating circuits between the joists. Thanks to this, the base will provide pleasant and comfortable warmth to your feet. To implement this method, it is necessary to completely dismantle the boards and lay a heating circuit in the joists. Thus, a warm water floor in a wooden house will become a reality.

What is needed for work

First of all, you need to prepare everything construction material and tool. The complete set of the tool will depend on the technology you choose. In general, to work you will need a set carpentry tools, tape measure, pipes for heated floors and fittings, plumbing tool kit, screwdriver and the like. Plus, you may need a rule, level, hammer drill, corner Sander And so on.

Heated floor manufacturing technology

Now let's look at the features of the technology for making a warm water floor in a wooden house. In our case, we will consider an example where polypropylene pipes are used. Why exactly them? Everything is very simple. Plastic pipes are connected using special fittings. The fittings have sealing rubber, there may be several of them on it. Over time, these rubber bands weaken and can leak. And, given that wood is afraid of moisture, this phenomenon is not very favorable. There are expensive, high-quality metal fittings on sale, but not everyone can afford them. Polypropylene welding technology allows you to create a monolithic connection. It is more durable. The main thing is to correctly follow the soldering technology.

So, the work process is as follows. First, the design of the entire heated floor in a wooden house is carried out. It is imperative to determine the hydraulic calculation. It is important to determine how effective a particular water circuit will be in a wooden house. Only after all this work, it is necessary to begin next stage. You may need the help of specialists here so that all calculations are performed correctly and in accordance with existing standards.

Next, the floor is prepared. First of all, determine whether there are any irregularities. If there is a difference in the floor, then it can be leveled using plywood or other sheet material. It is also necessary to create a waterproofing layer.

Advice! Waterproofing a heated floor in a wooden house is prerequisite. Although all work is performed efficiently, it is better to provide additional protection.

If you have chosen to use special mats, then install them. Typically a polystyrene system is used as mats. These mats have special latches that allow you to cover the entire floor surface without any gaps.

The water heated floor is laid in these grooves. The pipes are securely fixed in the grooves. It is worth adding that the system is also equipped with a heat-reflecting plate. Plywood or DSP is laid on top of the mats. Next, the floor finishing material is laid. Now let's pay attention to the choice of finishing material that can be laid on a warm water floor in a wooden house.

Flooring

At the beginning of this article, we already said that it is necessary to choose the right finishing material for a heated water floor in a wooden house. On top of wooden flooring you can use laminate or parquet board. These materials are allowed for their installation. However, there is one important limitation - it is unacceptable to heat the surface above 25°C.

Some prefer natural wood and lay a regular board. This is very profitable solution from an economic point of view. This is especially true when a water-heated floor is laid between wooden joists.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

If you are just a beginner, it is important to understand that installing a heated floor system has a large number of nuances. If they are not taken into account, the entire underfloor heating system will not be effective. For example, condensation may form, which negatively affects the wooden floor.

Thus, it is unacceptable to lay heating circuits more than 70 meters alone. Otherwise, this may lead to uneven heating of the entire floor in a wooden house. It is also unacceptable to install heated floors without waterproofing material. Don't think that you can save money here. Over time, if a leak suddenly occurs, the consequences of saving can be catastrophic. For this reason, the wood is treated with special impregnations and laid waterproofing material, for example, polyethylene and the like.

Well, it is equally important to choose the right finishing material. In this case, a number of factors are taken into account: what will be the temperature of the coolant, is it possible to automatically regulate the temperature, and much more.

Conclusion

So, as we have seen, it is quite possible to implement a water-heated floor in a wooden house. Moreover, all the work can be done with your own hands without the involvement of specialists. If you have no experience at all in this area, then you will have to seek help from specialists. If you are persistent and like to do everything with your own hands, then we invite you to familiarize yourself with an interesting and educational video that clearly shows the entire process of installing underfloor heating in a wooden house. We hope this material was useful to you! If you have already had experience in similar work, then share it in the comments to this article.

Warm floors are an invention of the 20th century. Our great-grandfathers did not have electric heating cables or gas boilers. However, they came up with their own heating method. To do this they used the walls of buildings. When making masonry, they left channels in them for the movement of hot furnace gases.

Today there is no need to resort to such tricks. You can make warm floors in a wooden house with minimal costs strength and means.

Choosing a heating heating system is very simple:

• Electrical cable or mats with flat current-carrying conductors;
• Warm floor based on plastic pipes with liquid coolant.

Both heating options have earned positive reviews. They are equivalent in comfort and heat transfer, but not the same in energy cost. Electricity is significantly more expensive than gas, so it is better to use a heating cable for heated floors in small rooms: bathrooms, kitchens and hallways. A liquid system made of pipes, a gas or solid fuel boiler is optimal for bedrooms and living rooms.

About the fact that heated floors better radiators A lot has been written and said.

We will only note its most important advantages:

• Optimal heat distribution. Zone comfortable temperature coincides with the living space (from the floor surface to a height of 1.7 meters). When the batteries are running, the air near the ceiling warms up the most.
• A radiator heating system activates dust movement to a greater extent than a warm floor.
• From the point of view of interior aesthetics, heated floors are superior to radiators.

Features of installing heated floors (water and electric) in a wooden house

The technology for laying water-heated floors in a wooden house depends on the type of floor. If the first floor and basement are covered with reinforced concrete panels, then the heating system is made according to the “classical” scheme:

• leveling mortar screed;
• insulation (extruded polystyrene foam, perlite concrete);
• heating cable or plastic pipes;
• leveling screed covering the heated floor;
• finishing coating (tiles, parquet, laminate).

It is more difficult to make a heated floor when roofing is used to cover the basement and first floor. wooden beams. In this case, there is no solid base, so the structure is assembled according to one of two options:

Option #1

• a board is placed underneath the beams to support the insulation (mineral wool, polystyrene foam, ecowool, perlite);
• Having laid the thermal insulation, plastic pipes are attached to the side faces of the beams;
• cutouts are made in the beams to allow pipes to pass through;
• lay a finished wooden floor from tongue-and-groove boards or a rough floor for laying parquet or laminate flooring.

Option No. 2

• Thick plywood is laid over the beams or OSB board(15-20 mm);
• attached to the coating wooden blocks section 50x50mm;
• insulation is laid between the bars;
• lay a material that reflects heat (aluminum foil);
• pipes are placed on top of the thermal insulation, fixing them to the bars;
• install a subfloor from boards, gypsum fiber sheets (gypsum fiber sheets), particle boards or plywood;
• lay the finishing coating (ceramic tiles, parquet, laminate).

Two options for installing a warm water floor using “dry” technology

In advanced systems mounted on wooden floors, heat-distributing metal plates are used. They perform two functions: they form channels for pipes and reflect heat.

Water Floor Heat Distribution Plates

To simplify installation, you can use ready-made factory chipboards with milled recesses for pipes. In addition, on the market you can find panels made of dense foam plastic with stamped channels (foam shield). In them, the pipework is fixed quickly and easily.

Installing a plastic pipe into a foam board

A pipeline of any configuration is mounted in a profile plate (laminated mats with bosses)

If foam is used, there is no need to attach a board to the beams to support the insulation. In this case, rigid insulation is attached directly to the surface of the subfloor. After this, a substrate under the laminate is spread on it or an adhesive solution is applied, then a reinforcing mesh is applied and the tiles are laid.

Foam board with distribution plates and pipe

Main disadvantage ready-made structures(foam board and milled chipboard) - high cost. Therefore, some home craftsmen use more cheap way channel formation. They stuff wooden strips onto the base, leaving gaps between them for laying pipes.

Using wooden planks and heat distribution plates to lay the heating pipe

Instead of expensive thermal plates, you can use affordable aluminum foil ( this method Suitable for both water and electric heated floors).

The planks are made from planed boards or cut from moisture-resistant plywood. Their thickness should be greater than the diameter of the pipeline (pipe 17 mm - rail 30 mm). To improve heat transfer, the width of the channel is made 5-6 millimeters larger than the diameter of the pipe.

“Folk methods” of forming channels for pipes

The width of the planks is made 3 cm less than the selected pipe layout pitch (for example, pipe pitch 30 cm - board width 27 cm). For a smooth bend of the pipeline loops, semicircular grooves are cut out in the strips.

Another method of laying a warm water floor with your own hands is presented in the diagram below.

Option for using galvanized corrugated sheets for laying pipes

In this case, the profiled sheet serves as a heat-reflecting screen and forms channels for pipes. In the diagram we see an option for installing a heated floor not above the basement, but on the first floor. From below, along the beams, a finishing lining of the ceiling was made from lining. Therefore, the shield (10), which supports the insulation, is attached not to the lower edges of the beams, but to the cranial bars nailed to their sides.

Please note that when laying thermal insulation (except for foam plastic), it is always protected from below and from above with a vapor barrier film. It protects the insulation from getting wet because it allows water vapor to escape freely.

Leaving a thermal gap between the edge of the flooring and the wall, you need to lay a damper tape in it. It seals the contact area and compensates for thermal deformations.

Helpful advice!

To lay the finished floor, use a kiln-dried board. Do not rush to secure the finished wood flooring to the base. Until this moment, the heated floor must work for at least 2 days.

Installation of a “dry” electric heated floor in a wooden house easier to install water system. A thin current-carrying cable does not require deep channels. It is fixed to the base with plastic clamps or metal plates.

The installation sequence looks like this:

• A reflective layer of aluminum foil is laid on the thermal insulation (expanded polystyrene, mineral wool, ecowool, perlite);
• A galvanized steel mesh with a cell of 40x40 or 50x50 mm is laid on the foil.
• Slots are made in the joists to allow electrical cables to pass through;
• The cable is attached to the mesh with clamps;
• A temperature sensor is installed in the middle between the wires in a corrugated tube and connected to the thermostat;
• The power cable is routed to the electrical outlet along a fireproof base or in a metal hose;
• A subfloor made of plywood is laid;
• The finishing coating (laminate, parquet board) is installed.

If the electric heated floor is covered with ceramic tiles, the installation procedure changes. In this case, the insulation is covered with moisture-resistant plywood or OSB, fixing them to the beams. After this, a solution is applied to the coating with a spatula, a plastic reinforcing mesh is embedded in it and the tiles are glued. If the heating cable does not come in a coil, but glued to a mesh, then its installation is simplified. Having rolled out the roll, all you have to do is apply glue to the surface of the base and lay the tiles.

Installation ceramic tiles for electric heated floor

Film heated floors are laid over wooden floors in the same way. It consists of thin mats with flexible current-carrying plates glued into them.

The minimum thickness allows infrared film floors to be installed not only under tiles and laminate, but also under linoleum and carpet.

Which floor in a wooden house is better?

The answer to this question is not clear-cut. If the cost of construction and work is at the forefront, then it is better to use electric floors. If you compare the price of energy resources, it is more profitable water system. To save room height, a thin film floor is used.

Regarding insulation, the following should be said: polystyrene foam for heated floors is not best material. Being in contact with a heated floor, working temperature which can reach +70C, it ages, releasing toxic gas. Therefore, it is better to lay ecowool or perlite between the floor beams.

Having chosen mineral wool for insulation, it must be well insulated by wrapping it in a vapor barrier. Otherwise warm air through gaps and leaks it can carry its particles from the underground space into the room. It is better to use a chemically neutral sheet material for laying tiles: cement-bonded particle board, glass-magnesite board or gypsum fiber sheet. OSB and plywood are inferior to them in terms of environmental safety.

The wooden flooring above the heated floor should not be thicker than 21 mm. Do not forget that wood is a good heat insulator, which reduces the efficiency of the heating system.