Choosing a septic tank is a crucial moment that must be approached taking into account the indicators groundwater and the frequency of its use. An incorrect approach can lead to difficulties when installing the structure, flooding or floating of the septic tank, and violation of its tightness. To avoid this, you need to take into account all the nuances and successfully select septic tanks for your dacha with high level groundwater (GW).
The first method is suitable for summer residents who have a well. The level can be easily calculated by measuring the distance from the surface of the earth to the water in the well.
Thus, knowing the theory and methods, determining the water level for installing septic tanks for a summer residence with a high groundwater level is not so difficult.
Factory-produced septic tanks for cottages with high groundwater levels
For those who do not want to “bother” and make a septic tank with their own hands, factory-made designs, which have several types, are perfect. Each of them has both its disadvantages and advantages.
Related article:
What models are there on the market? Which manufacturer should you choose so as not to end up overpaying? How to install it yourself? This and much more in detailed material.
Ground type design
This option has many advantages. Firstly, its installation does not require a pit, which must be additionally strengthened and insulated.
Secondly, it has only one capacity, which can save a lot of money.
Of course, it is not without its drawbacks. Such a design is not aesthetically pleasing, and in addition, it takes up quite a lot of space on the site.
In addition, if the bathroom is often used, then it is necessary to often order a cesspool truck, which means paying for it and placing a septic tank in conditions where access to it is necessary.
Thus, an above-ground septic tank can significantly save money and effort, and is perfect for those who visit their dacha only periodically.
Helpful advice! Buy a similar design if you do not often visit the dacha. This way you will save money both on installation and on the services of vacuum cleaners.
Underground plastic septic tank
The main advantage of factory-made structures is their complete tightness, which in any case will not allow toxic waste to seep into the groundwater feeding the well or spring.
The downside, for the most part, is the price of the device itself and its installation. In addition, installation is not only expensive, but also quite complex in terms of the type of work. To prevent groundwater from pushing the device out during operation, the pit is further strengthened; a concrete pad is laid on its bottom, to which all three containers are attached with special belts or other fasteners.
Important information! Such septic tanks, designed for dachas with a high groundwater level, should be installed if you permanently live in the dacha and want to be sure of the tightness of the structure.
Construction of septic tanks for a private house with your own hands
If you want to save significant money, and you have the desire and time to carefully study the drawings, instructions and videos, then you can complete the design yourself.
Important information! Brick buildings and septic tanks from concrete rings with your own hands, the diagrams of which are in large quantities can be found on the Internet, it is not recommended. Such solutions do not have the tightness that such devices should have, which means you will not be insured against waste discharge into groundwater.
Option one: installing Eurocubes
To implement the first solution, you will only need to purchase special Eurocubes - sealed tanks, which will then need to be fastened with pipes and placed in a pre-dug and reinforced pit.
This option is easy to install and has very low material costs. You will only need to produce a few simple steps with ready-made containers. In addition, already fairly inexpensive Eurocubes can be purchased from former owners, which will reduce the final cost several times.
Related article:
Is such a design possible and how difficult is it to install it yourself? We will answer these and other questions in a separate publication.
Option two: do-it-yourself septic tank made of concrete rings, diagrams and photos
It consists of the following sequential actions:
- First of all, a pit is dug out the right size, which is strengthened and insulated.
- Concrete rings are installed to the required depth.
- The joints of the rings are sealed inside and outside.
- A sand and gravel cushion is placed at the bottom.
- Holes are made from which the purified liquid will come out.
Helpful advice! The concrete with which you will seal the joints must be supplemented with a special waterproofing mixture.
More detailed instructions you can see in the video below:
Thus, making septic tanks for a private home with your own hands with proper preparation is an extremely feasible task.
Drawing conclusions
A successfully executed design is the key comfortable rest at the dacha, the purity of groundwater. In order to correctly install septic tanks for a dacha with a high groundwater level, you will need a little patience and maximum attention to the proposed materials. By following our instructions and detailed recommendations, you can be sure that you will do everything right. And an additional video will add even more confidence in your abilities.
Septic tank on groundwater (video)
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Septic tanks for a summer residence: which one is better to choose and where to install it?
Septic tanks for a dacha with a high groundwater level - deciding on the choice
One of the factors influencing the choice of a septic tank and the features of its installation is the geological characteristics of the site, such as the groundwater level. In many territories of Russia, this mark is less than a meter from the surface of the earth, which complicates the equipment local sewer or renders it unusable.
What difficulties are associated with high groundwater level?
Problems with nearby primer can arise both at the installation stage and during operation of the wastewater disposal system.
1. Almost 90% of septic tank installation involves digging and preparing the pit, as well as backfilling. Working while standing in water is quite difficult and uncomfortable.
2. Difficulties arise with the arrangement of soil post-treatment. The way out is to build a filter layer above the ground. However, such structures will not work without the use of forced pumping of wastewater from the septic tank.
3. With a high groundwater level, it is difficult to install concrete rings, which are one of the most common materials for arranging local sewage systems. Prefabricated concrete septic tanks often lose their tightness, and in conditions of high primer this will lead not only to pollution environment, but also to the seepage of groundwater into the reservoir. As a result, you will have to call a sewer truck more often to empty the storage tank, or the settling process in the septic tank that cleans the wastewater will be disrupted.
Note! Do not underestimate the flooding of a septic tank, since water along with wastewater will eventually be forced back into external pipeline and even indoor sewerage.
4. Plastic containers are light in weight, so under the influence groundwater may float up. This often leads to a rupture of the sewer line. Prevention of floating - installing the container on a concrete base and attaching it to it.
To avoid difficulties, reduce them, or at least mentally prepare for them, you need to find out in advance at what depth the groundwater flows, and then install.
How to determine the level of primer penetration?
Maximum soil moisture occurs during the period autumn rains or melting snow. For this reason, it is worth finding out the depth of the primer in spring or autumn. In most cases, reconnaissance is carried out during the construction of a house, but it can also be done after the house is occupied.
There are several methods.
- The easiest way is to look into the well, which is located on the site and is fed by groundwater. The distance to the water surface from the surface of the earth is the desired depth.
- Vegetation can be assessed. If moisture-loving representatives of the flora grow on the site, for example, horsetail, alder, this is an indicator of soil water content.
- The most accurate method is to drill several observation wells with a depth of at least 150 cm.
- You can also ask your neighbors.
It is recommended to use several methods, which will increase the accuracy of the determination. If reconnaissance has shown that waters rise close to the surface of the earth at least seasonally, then in order to set up a wastewater disposal station, several rules must be followed.
Features of the construction of local sewerage at high groundwater levels
The most simple option Arranging a wastewater disposal system involves installing a storage tank that is not buried in the ground, which will additionally save effort, time and materials. But such a tank will take up a lot of precious space and is only suitable for small country houses, in which no more than 3 people live and little sanitary equipment is installed. Otherwise, you can go broke calling a sewer truck.
For big houses the storage tank will not work, so you will need to install a soil treatment plant or a wastewater biotreatment station.
The construction of such systems on water-logged soil has its own characteristics at each stage:
First you need to decide on the material. It is not recommended to construct a collection container consisting, for example, of concrete rings, since the seams are prone to loss of tightness. It is best to use plastic containers.
Plastic septic tank
You can buy ready-made tanks or use, for example, used Eurocubes.
A number of rules must be followed when organizing the evacuation of wastewater from a septic tank.
Often, the presence of such a large list of rules and subtleties when installing a septic tank in areas with high groundwater makes owners refuse self-installation by turning to professionals. This correct solution, which can save from unnecessary expenses and work. So, if the septic tank has already surfaced, you will have to pump out the wastewater from it, dismantle it, flush the tank and reinstall it.
Prices for septic tank Topas
septic tank Topas
Septic tanks DKS for soils with high groundwater level
Topas - septic tank with aerobic cleaning 
If unavailable central sewer owners of houses and cottages install autonomous system for wastewater treatment. A septic tank for high groundwater is constructed according to special rules, otherwise the device will quickly become unusable. If the groundwater level (GWL) in the area is less than 1 meter, carefully select the septic tank model and take measures to protect it from harmful effects subsoil moisture.
Problems of sewerage arrangement at high groundwater level
Installation and operation of a septic tank with high groundwater is complicated for several reasons:
- Labor intensity of manual execution earthworks. Digging a pit or backfilling while standing in water is difficult and uncomfortable.
- Difficulty in performing soil purification. It is practically impossible, since damp soil is not able to absorb water. For this reason, the construction of a filtration well or filtration fields is ineffective. To overcome this situation, the filter elements are placed above the ground, on a special platform. This technical solution requires additional costs– a drainage pump that pumps the contents of the septic tank into infiltration tunnels (cassettes). To prevent shallow cassettes from being torn apart by frost in winter, they are covered with earth: such a mound can be disguised as a flower bed.
- Ineffectiveness of a prefabricated septic tank made of concrete rings. Most popular option local sewerage Due to high humidity, it almost always loses its tightness. As a result, wastewater seeps into the soil, and external moisture falls into the well. What to do if there is groundwater in the septic tank? The answer is obvious: you have to call a vacuum cleaner. Otherwise, liquid from an overfilled container may flow in the opposite direction through the outer pipes.
- Possibility of “floating up” of a plastic tank under the pressure of groundwater. The phenomenon, caused by the low weight of the structure, threatens to rupture the sewer pipeline. To “anchor” the container, it is mounted on a concrete base and rigidly fixed to it. If the septic tank floats up, the drains will have to be pumped out of it, dismantled and flushed, and then reinstalled.
Will help neutralize the disadvantages of high groundwater level preventive measures at the sewerage design stage, choice optimal model treatment plant.
Requirements for the septic tank and its placement
When choosing a septic tank for a dacha or a house in an area with high groundwater, take into account the following design characteristics:
- Tightness. Since the body will be in constant contact with wet soil, even the most thorough waterproofing will eventually become unusable. The best option– one-piece plastic container. If you choose a cast concrete tank, you will have to ensure that cranes and trucks can enter and work in the area. In addition, concrete gradually begins to let water through, even if its surface is treated with hydrophobic compounds.
- Dimensions. When choosing a model by size, take into account the characteristics of nearby ground moisture. The height of the tank should not be too high: you will have to dig a deep hole under it, and it will be filled with water all the time.
- Volume. It is determined by calculating the three-day average amount of wastewater entering the sewer system. Take into account the number of residents and devices connected to the sewer: toilet, washing machine and dishwashers, shower stall, bathtub (its capacity also plays a role). A small reserve is added to the calculated volume of liquid drainage. It is important that the container is not empty, otherwise microorganisms that process waste may die due to lack of nutrition.
- Design . So that the septic tank does not float up at high groundwater levels , it is securely secured with clamps or ties. In this plan more convenient design, which already has loops or eyes for fixation.
The cleaning system is located in compliance with generally accepted sanitary standards: at a distance of at least 5 meters from a house or road, no closer than 15 meters from a well or borehole. There must be at least 30 meters to an open reservoir.
Installation features
When deciding how to make a septic tank if groundwater is close, sometimes developers install a regular single-chamber storage tank without burying it in the soil. This scheme allows you to save materials, reduce the complexity of installation and speed it up. But a storage autonomous sewer system is justified only when servicing a small dacha with a small number of residents and sanitary equipment. In other cases, the dimensions of the tank will be too large, but despite this, you will often have to call a sewage disposal truck.
The most rational option for high groundwater levels will be one of three options:
- Installation of three-section en aerobic septic tank. In the first compartment, the wastewater is settled and divided into fractions, and in the second and third it is further purified. Thanks to infiltrators used in factory models instead of filter wells, 95% of the purified liquid is absorbed into the soil. Usually the product is sold disassembled: its components are assembled at the installation site according to the diagram provided by the manufacturer.
- Self-build sewer system with an infiltrator made of sealed plastic tanks or Eurocubes of suitable volume. The resulting compartments are connected to each other by pipes.
- Installation of an aerobic septic tank. It is a biorefinery station that supplies oxygen necessary for the activity of aerobic bacteria. To ensure natural air flow, a biofilter is installed - a plastic tank with expanded clay and a special ventilation system. There are energy-dependent filter models into which air is forcedly pumped using an air compressor for aeration.
To independently install an anaerobic wastewater treatment system in the presence of high groundwater, proceed as follows:
- Two wells are dug at a distance of 2 meters from each other. The dimensions of the pits are calculated so that between the walls of the containers and earthen slopes there was 15 cm on each side. The bottom of the pits is leveled (the result is checked by level), sand is filled with a layer of 30 cm, and compacted. Placed on a sand cushion reinforced concrete slab with special hinges. If the passage of lifting equipment for laying massive reinforced concrete slabs is difficult, the bottom of the wells is filled independently concrete mixture, having previously installed embedded parts for fixing the tanks.
- Using a bandage, each container is attached to concrete base(belts pass through it top cover). The manufactured sections are connected by a pipe for water flow. A drain from the house is connected to the first tank. Without filling the wells with soil, they begin to next stage.
- Dig a hole no more than 0.5 meters deep, with a perimeter half a meter larger than the cassette. The excavation is filled to the top with sand and compacted; concrete slabs 250 mm high are placed along its contour. The resulting container is filled with medium-fraction crushed stone (20-40 mm).
- On crushed stone cushion stack the cassettes. They are connected to the second tank, in which a submersible drainage pump is installed (before this, electrical wiring is installed to connect the equipment). Be sure to install a float switch with a moisture-resistant cable to start the pump when the container is filled and turn it off when the minimum level is reached. It’s better to play it safe and install two pumps: the float of the backup unit is set to a higher switching level so that it will work if the main one malfunctions.
- When making a sewer system, the factory infiltration cassette can be replaced homemade device. For this purpose, take an oblong plastic container without a bottom (similar to a pipe), and make many small holes in it to allow the settled liquid to escape into the ground. The cassette is used only in conjunction with a septic tank, otherwise the holes will become clogged with untreated wastewater. A ventilation pipe is installed at the exit from the infiltration tunnel.
- backfilling. To protect the plastic from interseasonal soil heaving, wells are filled with a special composition: 5 parts sand to 1 part dry cement. Backfilling is carried out gradually, compacting and spilling water on each layer. To flexible plastic does not bend, the chambers are gradually filled with water so that the liquid level constantly exceeds the level of the soil backfill.
Installation work more convenient to perform in summer period when the GWL is lowest. If the container is still filled with water, pump it out and then continue installation. It is recommended to install a ring drainage around the treatment plant. Dig a trench buried 20 cm relative to the freezing line of the soil. They make a sand cushion, lay perforated drainage pipes to drain groundwater in a geotextile shell, and fill them with sand and crushed stone.
Industrial production models
If preference is given to purchased installations, the question arises: which septic tank is the best for high groundwater? There is no definite answer here, since equipment is produced with different technical specifications and in a wide price range.
- "Tank" (manufacturer "Triton Plastic"). Universal three-chamber septic tank made of plastic. In the second section, anaerobic purification occurs, the third can serve as a biofilter.
- "Mole" (Aquamaster company). It is equipped with hull protection against floating and a compact biofilter.
- "Multplast". Multi-chamber model, complete drain pump. If desired, you can install an aerator and upgrade the installation to the level of a deep cleaning station.
- "Bioton-B" (PolymerProPlus company). It consists of three sections, also includes a biofilter and a compartment in which a drainage pump can be placed.
Construction of sewerage and treatment facilities at a dacha or personal plot requires taking into account many little things and nuances that at first glance seem insignificant. An example of such a factor is the groundwater level (or abbreviated GWL) in the area where the a private house or cottage. If they lie deep, then everything is fine, one less problem. But not all areas are in such favorable conditions– in some the groundwater level is 0.5-1 m. In this case, when installing a treatment plant, it is necessary to solve a whole range of problems, and the design of a septic tank for a high groundwater level has its own characteristics and differences. And every owner of a dacha or cottage should know about this.
Problem of high groundwater for sewerage
Let's start with what problems and difficulties for the sewerage system are created by groundwater lying only 0.5-1 m from the ground level.
- Flooding– due to soil heaving and groundwater movement, there is always a risk of moisture penetrating from the ground into the septic tank. This problem is especially acute for composite structures made of concrete rings, whose tightness leaves much to be desired. As a result, the tanks quickly fill up with liquid, and it becomes necessary to call a sewer truck. And in the worst cases, flows of groundwater mixed with fecal matter from the septic tank will flow into the sewer system, and then into the house, flooding the bathtub and toilet.
- Ascent– this problem is typical for lightweight structures made of plastic cubes. In the spring or after heavy rains for many days, the soil is saturated with a huge amount of water, which puts pressure on it, trying to squeeze it up. In this case, the septic tank itself turns into a kind of “float”. And if the tanks were not securely fixed to the concrete pad, then they will begin to float upward. Often this phenomenon is accompanied by tilting, leakage and sewerage breaks. As a result, the treatment system has become unusable, part of the site is flooded, and fecal matter penetrates into groundwater.
- Drainage- one of the most important stages sewage treatment is ground tertiary treatment. Water, having passed through the septic tank tanks, enters special filtration fields. There it, seeping through a bed of gravel, enters the soil, where it undergoes the last and most important stage of purification. By sanitary standards, between the groundwater level and the filtration field there must be a layer of earth at least a meter thick. Accordingly, meeting these requirements with groundwater lying at 0.5-1 m is quite problematic. Ignoring these standards leads to pollution of surrounding ponds, rivers and wells.
- Waterlogging– soil in a zone with high groundwater level is characterized by high humidity. Consequently, the ability to absorb water for post-treatment will be worse. And if this factor is not taken into account, the land around the septic tank will turn into a small swamp.
- Damage to the septic tank– groundwater is often characterized by increased alkalinity or, conversely, acidity. In such cases, they not only put pressure on the walls of the tanks and penetrate inside when the seal is broken, but also gradually destroy them. This is especially true for concrete structures. In addition, groundwater is not static, it is in motion and often carries with it small and sharp stones, which can also damage the integrity of septic tanks or connecting pipes.
- Installation problems– one of the main problems for the construction of treatment facilities in areas with high groundwater levels. When digging a pit, builders will be forced to work knee-deep in water. In addition, the process of pouring concrete or installing industrial septic tanks becomes more complicated.
Important! The danger of sewage seeping into the ground, mentioned several times above, is that groundwater is constantly moving and mixing. And if they were hit somewhere fecal matter, sewage and harmful microorganisms, they spread over a large area. As a result, the soil and groundwater become polluted, and nearby wells, streams and ponds become poisoned and undrinkable. In fact, a local environmental disaster occurs, caused by errors in other treatment systems.
Determining the depth of groundwater
You know about the problems that arise with high groundwater level. The next step is to determine the depth of groundwater in your own area.
The list shows three ways to do this, listed in order of increasing difficulty:
- survey of neighbors;
- search for indicator plants;
- drilling of exploration wells.
The second way is to evaluate what grows on your site and in the surrounding area. Plants are a kind of indicators that allow us to draw approximate conclusions about the groundwater level. If the flora in the area is predominantly moisture-loving, then most likely the groundwater level here is high. For a more precise determination, use the table.
Table. Indicator plants indicating the groundwater level in the area.
| Approximate groundwater level, m | Indicator plants |
|---|---|
| From 0 to 0.5 | Sedge, cattail, reed, Langsdorff's reed grass, marsh wild rosemary, downy birch |
| From 0.5 to 1 | Canary grass, meadowsweet, cattail, reed, |
| From 1 to 1.5 | Sandy rush, spruce, heather, blackberry, mouse pea, white bentgrass, meadow rank and fescue |
| From 1.5 and deeper | Yellow alfalfa, naked licorice, chi, meadow clover, awnless brome, plantain, creeping wheatgrass, juniper, moss, lingonberry |
The third method is the most accurate, but at the same time the most labor-intensive. Let's present it in the form of step-by-step instructions.
Step 1. Prepare a drill with a length of at least 2 m. If necessary, you can use a tool with a greater drilling depth.
Step 2. Identify several locations on the site for wells. It is advisable that one of them be located where the installation of a septic tank and treatment systems is planned.
Step 3. Drill a hole 2 m or more deep.
Step 4. Wait a day. To be safe, cover the tops of the wells with waterproof material so that overnight rain does not interfere with the determination of groundwater level.
Step 5. Prepare a metal pin or wooden stick for the depth of the well. Place marks on its bottom every 10 cm.
Step 6. Immerse this “indicator” into the well and pull it out. Determine the length of the pin that was wet and determine the groundwater level. As an example: a well was dug 2 m deep, the pin turned out to be 30 cm wet. Make simple calculations 200 – 30 = 170 Therefore, the groundwater level in this location is 1.7 m.
Step 7 Wipe the “indicator” or let it dry and repeat the experiment with other wells on the site.
Step 8 Repeat steps 6 and 7 with all wells for three days to obtain a more or less accurate result.
Important! It is best to take measurements in the spring, after the snow melts, when groundwater rises to its maximum. If waiting until March or April is too long, try the experiment in the summer or fall after several days of heavy rainfall.
What should a septic tank be like for a high groundwater level?
Let's consider the basic requirements that each plant placed on an area with a high groundwater level must meet.
Video - Construction of a septic tank on an area with a high groundwater level
Monolithic concrete septic tank - instructions
One of the most common designs created independently for country house or cottage. The walls and bottom of septic tanks are reinforced with lattice and have sufficient strength not to collapse under the pressure of groundwater and earth outside. Due to its heavy weight, it cannot emerge in the spring or during the rainy season. In this case it will be considered step-by-step instruction to create a three-chamber monolithic concrete septic tank, providing a significant degree of sewage treatment.
Step 1. Determine the place under), its dimensions, then start digging a pit. Depth – 3-3.5 meters. If possible, order the work of an excavator or a team of excavators - in this case, you can dig a pit on the first day. To prevent the walls from crumbling, lay them out plastic film. Compact the bottom of the pit.
Important! Additionally, it makes sense to build an awning over the pit so that it does not get flooded with rain. In order to minimize the problem with groundwater, start installing a septic tank in the summer during the driest period. If moisture still accumulates at the bottom of the pit and interferes with work, place a hose from the pump there.
Step 2. Place a compacted and moistened sand cushion 15-25 cm deep at the bottom.
Step 3. Proceed with the construction of the external formwork. Use fairly thick and strong boards, as a large mass of concrete will be poured. If the formwork is too weak, it can simply push it to the sides, especially in the lower part of the monolithic septic tank. Don't forget about the timber spacers.
Step 4. Start forming a reinforcing lattice on the bottom and walls of the pit. Use steel rods with a cross-section of 10 mm, tie them together with wire. The side of each individual lattice cell is from 20 to 30 cm.
Step 5. Form a reinforcing grid on the partitions that will divide the septic tank into separate chambers.
Step 6. Fill the bottom of the pit with concrete; the thickness of the bottom of the septic tank should be at least 150 mm. Add anti-corrosion and waterproofing additives to the mixture so that the tank does not allow groundwater to pass through and is not subject to destruction due to the aggressive internal and external environment.
Step 7 Build internal formwork that will form the walls of the septic tank and divide it into three separate chambers.
Step 8 Start pouring external walls and septic tank partitions. Don't forget to create overflow holes from chamber to chamber. When pouring, try to reduce the number of cold seams, as they will be the weak points of the structure, where leaks will occur first.
Step 9 Build the formwork for the roof of the septic tank. In this case, the boards must be carefully adjusted to each other. Don’t forget about hatches and ventilation - each septic tank chamber should have its own hatch for inspection, Maintenance and, if necessary, sewage disposal.
Step 10 Fill the ceiling with concrete, which will be the roof of the future treatment plant.
Step 11 Separately form a reinforced lattice around the hatches and fill them with cement mortar.
Step 12 Install tees for overflow holes inside, fill the septic tank with soil on top, install manhole covers and a ventilation system.
Three-chamber monolithic concrete septic tank ready. Next, all you have to do is make a diversion from it to an embankment with a filtration field (for post-treatment process water) or to the gutter.
A two- or three-chamber septic tank made from Eurocubes is constructed using a similar principle. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the high level of groundwater and, accordingly, the danger of floating. Therefore, plastic Eurocubes are mounted on a previously poured or laid anchor concrete slab. It also makes sense to protect the structure from the sides with something from compression during soil heaving.
When using an industrial-made septic tank, such as or, the same recommendations apply - a concrete slab, the tank itself is fixed to it using anchor straps, as in the image below.
If you consider yourself not very knowledgeable in construction and have doubts, then it is better to turn to experienced specialist, who has encountered similar problems and knows the solution. Remember one important truth: when landscaping a site, money is spent either at the construction stage or after it, but on correcting mistakes and combating the consequences of savings at the expense of reliability.
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ABOUT the lack of a sewerage system forces owners suburban dwellings install autonomous treatment facilities. Their functioning depends on many parameters, including the proximity of groundwater. Their close occurrence complicates the creation of treatment complexes. In this case, suitable ones with a high groundwater level are selected, which are adapted to such conditions.
With increased passage water arteries Quite complex treatment structures can be installed underground
You can calculate the location of underground flows in the territory using spring time when the snow melts or after long rains in the fall.
To independently find out the depth of the underground arteries, you will need the following tools:
- garden drill, length 2 m;
- a spoon drill that can drill to a depth of 5 m;
- a rod of a certain length.
After drilling a well, it must be left for a day. Behind given time water will appear in it. Then the water level is measured using a rod. Marks are made on it in advance to indicate centimeters. After this, the water level is monitored for several days; if it does not change, then this is an indicator that the water is underground.
Factory-made septic tank
An important criterion when selecting a treatment plant is tightness. Factory-produced plastic containers fully satisfy such requests.
Installation of such a structure is labor-intensive. In this case, a pit is dug and all the necessary containers are placed in it.
Since groundwater can push the treatment structure to the top, you need to secure the septic tank well. In this case, a concrete cushion is made, and then a container is attached to it.
Helpful information! For areas with close groundwater flow, equipment with three chambers is used. The first tank will carry out primary cleaning, and the remaining two will carry out post-treatment.
The nuances of installing septic tanks for a private home with your own hands
It is better to install septic tanks for cottages with a high groundwater level in the autumn-summer period. For installation you need to make a pit. In this case, you need to accurately determine the height of the base and container. The structure should be secured with cables. The trench must be made at a distance of six meters from the foundation.
If the groundwater is high, a drainage pipe is laid and sand is poured onto the bottom. A concrete slab must be installed on top.
Before pouring the sand-cement mixture, you need to connect the structure with the filtration fields. In this case, special couplings are used that improve the tightness.
Helpful advice! The cover of the treatment plant must be above the ground line. This will prevent melt and rain water from getting inside. In winter, it is recommended to cover the lid with thermal insulation boards.
How to install a treatment plant when groundwater is close?
When placing groundwater near the surface, you can try to create a septic tank for a private home with your own hands. Brick or concrete rings are used for their installation.
The following points should be taken into account when working:
- there should be a space of 10-15 cm between the surface of the pit and the treatment structure;
- the thickness of the sand cushion is within 5-10 cm;
- it is necessary to make formwork from boards;
- so that the tank cannot move, the distance between the surfaces of the septic tank and the pit must be filled with sand;
- backfilling is carried out by gradually filling the tank with water.
The simplest septic tank can be made with your own hands from plastic containers. You can use the Eurocube. In this case, the containers must be connected with special pipes through which waste liquids will move. Finished chambers must be coated with special waterproofing.
Helpful information! The installation will allow you to create a sealed structure monolithic well made of reinforced concrete.
Related article:
DIY version of a septic tank made of concrete rings: diagram and photo
You can create a high-quality septic tank from concrete rings with your own hands. The diagram shows all the main stages of installation.
Before proceeding with installation, you need to calculate and plan everything. In this case, it is worth determining where the structure of the tanks will be placed. The following points are taken into account:
- the length from the device to the building must be at least five meters;
- the interval from wells to springs with drinking water is at least 50 m;
- distance to reservoirs – about 11 m;
- about 4 meters to garden plantings.
Laying concrete elements will require the involvement of special equipment. A crane and truck may be needed. After the calculations, three pits are made, which should be 10-12% larger than the rings. The bottom of the first two trenches is equipped with concrete pads, which are leveled horizontally. The bottom of the third recess should be deeper than the others. Crushed stone and sand are poured into it.
The rings are treated with a bitumen compound before installation. Using special equipment, concrete elements are placed inside. All joints are treated with liquid glass.
It is also worth digging trenches for connecting sewer lines. At the entrance to the rings, sealing is performed using fittings and sealants.
After the sealing lubricants have hardened, the sewer manholes are installed. Processing in progress bitumen mastic. Wells are insulated stone wool and expanded polystyrene.
The distance between the well and the soil is covered with earth. You can also use clay for better waterproofing. Concrete blind areas are made from above to drain sediment flows.
