Having finished the walls and ceiling inside the apartment with sheets of plasterboard, no owner will stop arranging the rooms. Bare walls just begging to be finished. The drywall sheets themselves are smooth and even, but, unfortunately, they are not monolithic, but have certain dimensions. After installation, the wall looks uneven. The resulting joints, places where drywall is attached to the frame - screw heads - need putty. Before the final finishing of the walls, the drywall is puttyed with your own hands - the work is not difficult, but quite painstaking. First of all, you need to choose a suitable putty.

Choosing putty for drywall

In shops building materials sufficient selection of dry building mixtures. There are so many of them that you can’t immediately figure out which putty to putty on drywall. Some materials are intended for finishing ceilings and walls, while others are intended for finishing cracks and chips. Still others are used solely for decorative purposes.

It is more profitable to take dry mixtures because they last a long time. Both in warehouses and stores, and after purchase. The quality of dry putties is not affected by temperature storage conditions. Whereas ready-made putties subject to all sorts of changes, far from better side. In addition, dry mixtures can be used in doses: grease in some places, level out in others, and leave most of it for emergency work.

Depending on the materials, putties are:

1. Cement;
2. Plaster;
3. Polymer.

All three materials are suitable for puttying drywall, but not in every room. If you need to putty a kitchen or bathroom, it is better to use cement putty, since gypsum cannot withstand changes in humidity: when the gypsum putty dries, it will crack.

Polymer putties are universal and flexible. They are better suited for puttying drywall. In addition, their consumption is much less.

The various characteristics of putties, which determine their price and scope of application, are not decisive for working with drywall at home. Qualities such as frost resistance or fire resistance are not that important.

The best option would be to purchase a universal dry mixture.

Primer

To prepare drywall for further actions, the wall is being primed. The primer is applied evenly over the entire area of ​​the drywall. Water-soluble mixtures are used as primers, which impregnate upper layer dry plaster without penetrating inside. This is how it is formed moisture resistant film, which will prevent the absorption of wallpaper glue or paint.

Important: When priming drywall, do not use alkyd primers because they can cause deformation of the cardboard layer. Peeled paper forms bubbles that crack and hang in rags. There is no need to talk about any strength of fastening of clean finishing materials under such conditions.

The primer is diluted in a basin, then applied with a roller along the entire wall: from top to bottom. The thickness of the soil layer should not be less than 0.03 mm.

Preparing drywall for putty

Before puttying, the plasterboard wall is leveled so that the surface becomes perfectly flat. It makes no sense to putty a wall with protruding screw heads. It is necessary to tighten them all until failure. However, you should not use excessive force to avoid drowning the bolt heads. Then you will get holes. If, during the installation process, the screws are screwed in so that their heads are recessed deep into the layer of drywall, the screws are unscrewed and new, longer ones are screwed in their place.

At the joints of plasterboard sheets there should be no separation of the outer sheet from the gypsum filling. If the paper peels off, you need to carefully tear it off with your hands and cut it with a knife to the very spine. Then smooth out the resulting wrinkle with sandpaper. Otherwise, the putty may peel off along with the fallen paper. Cracks will appear in place of the bubbles that formed after the putty dries.

Plasterboard putty for painting

The preparation of drywall is carried out according to a similar scheme as for wallpapering. It is important that the wall is perfectly flat, without dents or protrusions.

cutting corners without edge

The seams between the drywall profiles are carefully leveled with putty, and the surface is primed. The paint is absorbed into the cardboard in the same way as wallpaper glue. If this impregnation reaches the inner layer, the outer one - cardboard - will be deformed. Will crack or swell with bubbles.

Joints of drywall sheets that do not have a factory edge must be cut independently at an angle of 45 0. Only under such conditions will reliable reinforcement of the seam be obtained.

Putty technology

When the primer has dried, it's time to move on to the putty. A simple putty technology is produced in several stages.

gluing serpyanka

The first step is to glue the fiberglass mesh - serpyanka - onto all joints and corners. The joint tape has a self-adhesive surface, so this process does not take long. It is important to stick the serpyanka so that there is half a tape on both sides of the seam or corner. That is, the seam ended up exactly in the middle of the serpyanka.

The putty is diluted in small quantities because it dries quickly. Adding water to a dried mixture changes all its qualities. Having calculated the approximate volume of disposable putty, you need to dilute exactly that amount, and not a gram more. Half an hour of work. After this, the putty will no longer be suitable for use.

Sealing drywall joints

To seal seams with sheets of drywall, you need two spatulas: medium and wide. 12-15 cm and 30-35 cm, respectively. It is much more difficult to work with a trowel and a grater, and the work is not as neat as we would like. What works well for concrete does not work with drywall without a hitch.

To properly putty plasterboard joints, it is necessary to apply a reinforcing layer evenly throughout the entire seam. It’s easier, of course, to first scoop it up with a narrow spatula, not a large number of putty and apply it to the seam. Then use a wide spatula to stretch the putty as far as possible. Once you get the hang of it, you can immediately scoop it up with a large spatula and spread it over the entire seam. If you can carefully fill the joint, the reinforcement process proceeds as needed.

An important condition for primary putty is the correct reinforcement of the joints, as a result of which no unevenness or roughness should form. Otherwise, after drying, it is very difficult to sand off heavy streaks. Sandpaper and a rasp will not help. More serious abrasive tools can destroy not only dried putty, but also a sheet of drywall.

Putty screws

Puttying of screws is done using a cross-shaped method. The putty is applied lengthwise and crosswise, this way the grooves of the screw heads are better filled and their heads are completely hidden.

Putty corners

Puttying the corners is a little more difficult, because it is not even. vertical surface, and sheets of plasterboard converging at right angles. It is not immediately possible to draw both sides of the angle evenly. In this regard, corner sealing is carried out in two stages.

• First, one side of the corner is puttied according to the usual rules.
• After half the seam has dried, the other side of the corner is puttied.

So, after waiting for some time, we get an even, neat seam. A few drops of patience in the process of puttying corners can save a lot of nerves and energy that could have been spent on remodeling.

Basic putty technique

The actual puttying begins after the rough finishing of the seams has dried and the corners have been sealed.

often aluminum profiles for drywall corners are equipped with reinforcing mesh

Smooth outer corners: window and door slopes– secured with aluminum construction angle. It is attached to putty or a construction stapler, which is much more convenient and neat. Without unnecessary splashes and construction debris underfoot. The corner is cut to specified dimensions and attached around the perimeter of window and door openings.

Having strengthened metal corners, using a small spatula, press the putty into the corrugated holes of the profile so that all the holes are filled. This achieves rigidity and hardness external corner, which subsequently guarantees its strength to mechanical stress. Then the surface of the solution is leveled with a wide spatula. To do this, you need to run a spatula along the edge of the corner and the surface of the drywall sheet.

If you have to putty arched passages, use a special plastic corner. It is somewhat thicker than aluminum, so after the corner is secured with a stapler, it is necessary to putty it in two stages. You should not try to stick putty on as much as possible, then it will turn out uneven surface. It is recommended to apply the first layer, filling all the holes, wait for drying time, and then apply a layer of putty again, leveling the junction of the corner with the surface of the drywall. With this approach, the putty layer turns out to be almost perfectly smooth.

Finishing drywall putty

The final stage of preparing plasterboard walls allows you to achieve perfect evenness of surfaces for subsequent finishing.

All irregularities and roughness must be smoothed out with sandpaper. When working, you must use a respirator. The surface of the wall is also treated with sandpaper - “zero”. After cleaning, the contact of the finishing putty with the wall, which was previously treated with a primer, improves.

For finishing Fiberglass or the same putty that was used at the starting stage is suitable. The spatula is used wide. The finishing putty should be diluted to the consistency of sour cream. This will allow the putty to be applied evenly over the entire surface of the drywall. It is necessary to apply a layer of finishing putty as thinly and evenly as possible.

Putty consumption per square meter of drywall

The consumption of putty depends on the nature of the surface being treated. If there are many defects, then more putty is used. Taking into account the preliminary priming of the wall, the putty consumption per square meter drywall is calculated one to one, plus one hundred grams. Easy to remember: 1.1 x 1 m2. This formula is suitable for dry cement-based putties.

• When using gypsum putty it is even simpler: one to one when putting on walls and ceilings.
• Glue-based putty is consumed even less - half a kilogram per square meter is enough.

To calculate approximate quantity putty, you need to know the surface area of ​​all the walls in the room. It's easy: each sheet of drywall has certain dimensions, they are indicated on the label. All numbers are summed up and the total area for finishing putty is obtained.

For starting putty the same amount of material is taken, with a small margin. However, in any calculations it is important to follow the technology. The mixture should be diluted in such an amount that it is enough to work for half an hour or less. If you hesitate or are distracted from work, then it is recommended to dispose of the dried putty. It's not worth using. It is not advisable to redo work that has already been done. Either the surface of the wall will not be smooth, as expected, or in the long term the drywall will begin to fall off Decoration Materials due to the lack of a strong grip.

The matter does not end with the finishing putty. After the wall has dried, it is necessary to prime it again.

Only after completing all the stages of preparing drywall for finishing, you can be sure that it will be securely fastened. In addition, finished plasterboard sheets can be easily cleaned from the previous wallpaper. Nothing falls off or cracks. Having removed the old canvas, you can paste new wallpaper. In this case, there is no need to re-putty the plasterboard walls.

Video instructions for puttying drywall

Putty – important point repair, which helps not only to eliminate defects in drywall, level its surface, but also to make the material as ready as possible for finishing.

Let's say you decide to cover the gypsum board with wallpaper, and you doubt whether preliminary putty is needed. When a person does almost everything in repairs with his own hands, then at some points he may decide to save (both effort and money), but this is not always necessary to do. There are at least two important reasons for puttingtying drywall before subsequent finishing.

Why you need to putty drywall:

• If you purchased light and/or thin wallpaper, then the risk that the joints and irregularities of the plasterboard sheets will show through is great. It will turn out that the wall is made very sloppy, and it will be difficult to change this impression, so it is better to putty the surface.
• The second point is that you may want to re-glue the wallpaper, and if a layer of putty is not applied, then the wallpaper will have to be torn off with a layer of drywall. And by doing this you will already break the entire structure. Putty will protect against such risks.

All this is relevant not only for wallpaper, any other decorative finishing requires preliminary putty. This is surface preparation, and so that the technology does not fail, and you are not disappointed in your work, be sure to putty the drywall.

Three stages: primer, reinforcement, drywall putty

Before puttying, you need to perform simple procedures. First of all, pay attention to those very screw heads that can stick out unsightly. If they stick out, twist them so that they fall into the sheet. If holes have formed under the fasteners, the screws need to be removed and replaced with new, longer ones. The caps should be at the same level as the drywall.

Then inspect for any defects at the joints. The top layer of material may peel off. In case of such a defect, the paper must be carefully cut off with a knife, and the surface under the paper must be treated with fine sandpaper.

• Primer. It must be applied in an even layer over the entire treatment area. Primers are mixtures that penetrate only the top layer of the material, forming a waterproof film. Alkyd compositions cannot be used; the paper layer may sag.
• Reinforcement. The surface must be reinforced with a special mesh. Part of the mesh is treated with a special adhesive composition, so it is easy to fix the mesh. Glue it on all seams and corners so that the two sides of the joint are half the width of the mesh.

After these steps are completed, the putty is applied. But the mixture usually needs to be prepared. If you use a dry mixture, do it only just before the application process. Accordingly, there is no need to dilute the finished mixture - we take it and putty.

Dilution of the mixture: how to putty drywall

If you purchased a dry mixture, it must be diluted correctly. It's good if you have an electric drill with a mixer attachment. With its help, you simply mix the dry substance with water, the process will take no more than five minutes. Then you wait 15 minutes, the procedure is repeated.

It is more difficult to work by hand: you will have to add the mixture gradually and add water carefully, mixing everything very thoroughly, as if you were kneading dough. It is very important that there are no air bubbles left inside.

The putty dries very quickly, so it is better to prepare it in small portions. So that in half an hour you can use up the diluted mixture, and only then move on to new mixing. Both economically and technologically correct.

Doing it right: how to apply putty to drywall

The work often begins (or comes down to it) with sealing the joints. To do this, you will need two spatulas - wide (35 cm) and medium (15 cm). A grater and trowel are often used, but with them you need to be prepared for the fact that the work will be delayed and it is not a fact that the result will be perfect.

The whole process technology is as follows:

• Use a narrow spatula to pick up putty and carefully transfer it to the seam;
• Then take a wide spatula and stretch the material as wide as possible;
• After several joints have been processed, you can arm yourself with only a wide spatula; this will save time, but it requires skill.

On at this moment Do not leave unevenness or smudges on the surface of the plasterboard. It will be difficult for you to remove them, as this can injure the material. Therefore, the work requires maximum accuracy.

Main surfaces: how to putty drywall correctly

Only after the starting layer in the corners and joints has completely dried, do you need to putty the main part of the drywall. First, the outer corners are strengthened aluminum profiles. They are installed using a construction stapler and putty.

The material is applied to the wall and leveled with a wide spatula. Move from top to bottom. If the room has arches or other complex designs, be sure to use a plastic corner. It is secured with staples and then puttied.

Work as quickly as possible so that you can trim adjacent strips of trim as you go. After the putty is applied, allow the material to cure.

It is worth saying that drywall is sometimes puttied with a roller. This is done when you need to “whiten” a surface that has already been leveled in order to give it an even color for subsequent work. But more often you have to work with a roller.

Putty: finishing work

When the putty is completed, do not rush with the subsequent finishing. The surface must dry thoroughly. Then all irregularities need to be sanded with fine sandpaper. Be sure to do this wearing safety glasses and a respirator.

Then do this:

• Treat the surface with zero sandpaper;
• Then apply an even primer coat;
• For finishing, use a special mixture, or dilute the starting mixture to sour cream;
• Apply and stretch the material with a wide spatula - the putty layer should be thin and uniform;
• After this layer has dried, you need to apply a primer again, and only then can you glue wallpaper or paint the wall.

From a surface treated in this way, it will be easy for you to tear off the wallpaper during the next repair. In this case, nothing threatens the drywall. Finished work There is no need to redo it, even if minor defects are found. Perhaps sanding or leveling a small area with a finishing compound will be sufficient.

Instructions: how to putty drywall (video)

You need to putty the drywall, and do it according to all the rules - with preparation, priming, sanding. Don’t skimp on layers or materials; the final look of the entire work depends on this.

Good results!

Puttying plasterboard walls - preparing the surface before finishing. The application of this composition hides the unevenness of the joining seams and screw heads. Thanks to this, the surface will be smooth, which will improve appearance and will make finishing easier. The main thing is to choose high-quality composition and know how to properly putty plasterboard walls.

The feasibility of puttingtying plasterboard walls is beyond doubt. This repair stage produces the following results:

• the composition protects the material from damage during dismantling of the coating;
• the product hides irregularities in the form of protruding caps from screws and joining seams;
• makes finishing easier.

How long will it take to work?

Puttying plasterboard walls with your own hands takes a maximum of two days, provided that the surface has a simple topography. If the building base has niches, projections, etc., then the work will take more time. It will take three to four days. However, the duration of puttying the walls depends on the drying speed of the materials used in the work. For example, if a primer is used that dries in 24 hours, the process will be delayed, since the composition is applied in several layers and the next stage is not possible until the composition has dried. Therefore, professionals advise choosing quick-drying products.

Types of putty

Before you putty plasterboard walls, you should familiarize yourself with the types of composition.

The product is classified according to the sequence of application:

• Starting line-up. Contains large fractions, therefore it is used to eliminate surface defects. Recommended thickness is 5 mm.
• Finishing agent. This is a fine grain mixture. Apply to starting putty. Used to level the surface. Recommended thickness is 1 mm.
• Universal composition. It is used both as a starting and finishing agent.

The putty is also divided according to its readiness for use:

• Ready mixture. It goes on sale in hermetically sealed containers. The mixture is ready for use, so no mixing is required. Advantages - easy to apply, disadvantages - high price.
• Dry mixture. Sold in paper bags. The product needs to be prepared. The composition is diluted with water and mixed with a construction mixer. Advantages - affordable cost, disadvantages - it is difficult to prepare the composition without a special tool.

Plasterboard walls are puttied with a cement, polymer or gypsum composition. The means are selected depending on the room in which the work is carried out. In dry rooms it is recommended to use a composition prepared on the basis of gypsum. In rooms with high humidity putty containing polymers or cement is used.

Calculation of composition consumption

The consumption of putty depends on the condition of the surface on which the composition is applied. The more damage there is to the building foundation, the more funds will be required. Calculation of consumption also depends on the type of putty:

• 1.1 kg per 1 m2 - formula for cement compositions;
• 1 kg per 1 m2 – formula for gypsum products;
• 0.5 kg per 1 m2 - formula for adhesive.

Required tools and materials

To putty plasterboard walls you will need the following materials and tools:

• container for preparing solutions;
• set of spatulas;
• construction mixer if using a dry mixture (you can use a drill with a mixer attachment);
• grater for grinding;
• reinforcing mesh;
• perforated corners;
• mounting knife;
• tool for applying primer (brush, roller or spray);
• protective equipment (goggles and respirator);
• primer;
• starting and finishing composition or universal remedy.

Surface preparation

Puttying plasterboard walls with your own hands begins with preparing the surface. All screw heads must be 1 mm below the surface of the drywall. If inaccuracies are found, they are eliminated. The self-tapping screws, whose heads rise above the base, are twisted, and the fasteners that are located below the drywall are unscrewed. Next, the surface is checked for defects. On drywall - this is the separation of sheets. If such a defect is detected, the sheet is cut off and the surface is sanded. If this is not done, then over time the putty will peel off along with the defect, which will require updating the repair. Next, the walls are primed.

Alkyd compounds cannot be used for plasterboard surfaces, as they destroy the material. It is recommended to use waterproof compounds deep penetration. They are applied to the entire surface of the wall using a roller, as in the photo, as well as a brush or spray. The primer is applied in 2-3 layers. Drying time for intermediate layers is 20 minutes. After finishing coating work is suspended for the drying time indicated on the primer packaging.

Work algorithm

To understand how to putty plasterboard walls, you need to familiarize yourself with the operation algorithm.

Preparation of the composition

The finished product is used for its intended purpose immediately after opening the package. Preparation only requires dry mixture. It is placed in a bucket and filled with water in the proportions indicated on the packaging. Next, the composition is mixed using a construction mixer.

Puttying tile joints

Puttying the seams begins with fixing the serpyanka. It is recommended to use self-adhesive reinforcing mesh. It is fixed to all drywall seams, as well as corners. Due to the fact that the material is coated with an adhesive composition, fixing it to the wall will not cause problems. The mesh is glued so that the seam is exactly in the middle. If non-self-adhesive serpyanka is used, then putty is first applied to the seam. After this, a serpyanka is fixed on the composition and leveled with a spatula so that the mesh goes deeper into the composition. Then another layer of putty is applied on top of the mesh.

Corner processing

For corners, it is recommended to use perforated corners. A layer of putty is applied to the surface. Immediately after this, a corner is fixed on it so that part of the composition leaks through the holes. The putty is evenly distributed with a spatula and another layer, 2 mm thick, is applied on top.

Putty on screw heads

The instructions for puttingtying the heads of self-tapping screws are similar to the rules for applying the composition to the seams, but they differ. Fasteners are treated with the finishing compound in two strokes - lengthwise and crosswise. After the product has dried, the surface is sanded.

Applying the composition to the main surfaces

When the putty has been applied to all seams, corners and screws, you can proceed to processing the entire surface. A finishing agent is used for this. This putty is distributed over the entire wall. Layer thickness – 1 mm.

Shutdown

The final stage of surface preparation before bleaching is grinding. building foundation. Before starting work, put on protective equipment - goggles and a respirator. Next, the entire surface is processed with a grater. After this, a primer is applied to the walls and finishing can begin.

The video in this article clearly demonstrates how to properly apply putty to plasterboard walls.

Even non-professional craftsmen can putty on plasterboard walls. To do this, you just need to carefully study the order of work.

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How to putty drywall for painting or wallpaper: 3 simple ways for self-execution

Do you think you can already paint and glue wallpaper? It’s early - first you need to putty everything

Greetings. In this article I will talk about how to putty drywall for wallpaper and painting. It is no secret that cladding building surfaces with plasterboard is becoming increasingly popular due to ease of implementation and affordable cost. finishing works. Therefore, I hope that the topic of the article will not only be interesting, but also useful to many.

Why putty gypsum boards?

First, let's decide whether it is necessary to putty at all, because cladding using plasterboard sheets (GKL) itself is smooth.

It might actually be possible to do without putty and just seal it assembly seams? It turns out that everything is not so simple, and even skillfully executed cladding of the ceiling and walls using gypsum plasterboard is not perfectly smooth.

For example, in this photo you can see a ceiling with the installation gaps filled. And yet, applying a long rule to the surface, we can see a gap of 3-5 mm. Agree if done high-quality repairs, such differences need to be corrected.

How do uneven surfaces appear when covering building surfaces? The most common reason for the appearance of holes in the cladding of ceilings and walls is the use of self-tapping screws without cutting through the profile when assembling the frame.

As you can see in this photo, the head of the screw protrudes above the surface of the profile by about 3 mm. If you think that this method of assembling a frame is an isolated case, then this is not so; most installers do not recess the head of the screw, which means they cannot do without putty.

What are the dangers of the presence of unplastered irregularities on gypsum plasterboard sheathing? As an example, I offer the following photo.

What do we see here? Through a layer of primer and paint, the hole at the site of the failure clearly appears. The defect is obvious, how to fix it?

The only way out is to grind the uneven areas in the area of ​​transitions from level to level and subsequent plastering using putty. If this had been done from the beginning there would have been no potholes and no wasted paint and primer.

By the way, gluing wallpaper onto drywall is no less dangerous than painting it without a layer of putty. From my own experience, I can say that on the first day after gluing, dark spots will appear through the wallpaper. In addition, if the wallpaper is glued at the same level over the entire surface of the plasterboard, then at the joints it will rise.

And finally, if you glue the wallpaper directly onto the gypsum board, then it will be almost impossible to completely remove it, unless you have to tear it off with pieces of cardboard.

How to level gypsum boards

Before you putty the drywall under wallpaper or paint, you need to select a leveling mixture. Let's consider in general outline, what to apply in our case.

Plastered mortars for leveling gypsum boards are conventionally divided into 3 types:

• Mixtures for rough alignment with a coarse-grained consistency;
• Mixtures for fine leveling with a fine-grained consistency;
• Universal putties with a medium fraction of filler.

What to choose

If we are putting putty on drywall for the first time, it is better to choose a universal mixture that is easy to use, does not crack and sticks well even to poorly prepared surfaces. Compounds for rough and fine leveling allow you to achieve a smoother and more attractive surface, but their use requires experience.

What should the leveling mixture be made of?

Despite the fact that various leveling mixtures are available on the market, putty for drywall must be made from gypsum. After all, what is gypsum board? This is a slab of building gypsum, covered with thick cardboard on both sides. Therefore, when working with gypsum, it is logical to use gypsum-based materials.

By the way, the price of putties made on the basis of gypsum is the most affordable.

Features of leveling building surfaces lined with gypsum plasterboard

Before you properly putty the drywall, let's decide on the choice of leveling method.

Leveling can be done with spatulas, a trowel or a roller with spatulas. Each of the methods has characteristic advantages, so I’ll tell you about working with the listed tools in more detail. But, before you putty the plasterboard, you need to perform preparatory puttying of the drywall seams.

Why can’t the surface be leveled immediately without first filling the technological gap?

There are two reasons:

• The absence of reinforcement for filling the seam will lead to the formation of cracks when the mixture dries;
• Applying too thick a layer of mixture into the gap at one time will result in visible streaks along the joint line on the painted wall.

The instructions for filling slab joints are as follows:

• If the seam is factory-made, that is, formed by those sides of the slabs that were cut from the factory, simply put the mortar on a spatula and put it inside the gap;
• We immediately smooth out the laid mortar, but move the spatula not longitudinally, but across the gap;
• Immediately close the recesses pressed through by the head of the screws;
• If the seam is formed when cutting slabs with a hacksaw, cut the edges of the seam at an angle of 45 degrees so that the mixture can enter inside;
• Fill the gap and smooth it with a spatula.

The instructions for sealing joints with reinforcement are as follows:

• We apply sickle mesh to the seam;

• We take the mixture onto a spatula and apply it in the direction of the seam;

• While the applied mixture is still damp, smooth it with a spatula so that there is a minimum difference between the edges of the joint filling and the surface.

So, now you know how to fill the joint between the slabs with your own hands, which means it’s time to find out how plastering is done.

Method one - leveling plasterboard surfaces with spatulas

To work you will need the following tools and consumables:

• Wide spatulas width 40 -50 cm;
• Narrow spatula;
• Container for preparing the mixture and equipment for mixing;
• Paint float and P240 sandpaper;
• Spotlight or portable lamp.

Puttying drywall for wallpaper or painting is done as follows:

• To apply the first layer, prepare plaster mixture with the consistency of sour cream, that is, not very liquid and not very hard;
• Apply small portions of the mixture onto a wide spatula with a narrow spatula;

• First, we level the areas where the seams are to be sealed and pull out the applied putty from bottom to top;

At this stage, apply the leveling mixture in the center of the spatula, since when smoothing the seam, the mixture itself will be distributed over the surface. While pulling out the mixture, we make wave-like movements with the spatula from side to side. After one or another area has been applied and leveled, we remove the residue from the spatula and only after that apply a new portion of putty to its surface.

• From the corner, apply the mixture not longitudinally along the seam, but across it in small sections the width of the spatula;

• After the seams are additionally leveled, we apply the mixture to the junction of the ceiling and the walls and also level it;

For ease of working with putty at the junction of the ceiling and walls, apply the mixture not over the entire width of the spatula, but only on 1/3 of the working part, with which the tool will adjoin the surface to be treated.

• After the seams and corners are processed, we align the gaps between the seams.

At this stage we work from wet to dry, that is, starting to apply the mixture from an already leveled area to clean drywall. By the way, this time we distribute the putty evenly along the entire edge of the spatula. As a result, it will be possible to cover a large area at one time, and in addition there will be fewer uneven areas that will have to be corrected with a second layer.

• After the entire surface has been treated, we note the time required for the first layer to dry;

The time for drying the mixture, taking into account the average humidity of the mixture, is indicated on the packaging of the purchased materials.

• We prepare the finishing putty for applying the second leveling layer;

This time we make the mixture thinner than the first time, since our task is not to level it from scratch, but to fill the microrelief on the already applied layer. In addition, the volume of the batch for the second layer should be half that of the first batch, since much less putty will be used.

• We begin to apply the mixture from the corner;

At final leveling The sequence of direction of movements with a spatula does not matter. It is important to apply semi-liquid putty along the entire edge of the working part of the tool and spread this portion as evenly as possible over the entire surface. It is possible that sagging will remain at the joints of the passages with a spatula. Therefore, we immediately smooth out the transitions with a spatula.

• After the entire surface has been treated, leave it for at least a day to completely dry, after which grinding is performed.

Method two - leveling plasterboard surfaces with a roller and spatula

Before I tell you how to plaster drywall with a roller, I will note that only the second leveling layer is applied with a roller.

What's the point of using a roller when you have more traditional tools? The advantage of working with a roller is the simplicity and short time required for leveling surfaces lined with gypsum plasterboard. In terms of work performance, this method can be compared with the mechanical application of a plaster layer.

The point is that a finishing mixture with a liquid consistency is prepared and, using a fleecy roller, this solution is applied to a particular surface in even stripes. After this, all that remains is to take a wide spatula and carefully remove the excess liquid mixture from the leveled surface into a container.

How smooth is the result of using this method? It all depends on the quality of the initial rough layer.

To obtain an optimal result, the relief on the surface of the rough layer should not exceed 2 mm. That is, 2 mm is exactly the depth of the recesses that can be filled with putty, diluted to the consistency of liquid sour cream.

After applying the finishing layer is completed, the surface will look perfectly smooth, unlike the previous method, where all the work was done only with spatulas. The fact is that the liquid mixture, unlike thick solutions, is drawn out evenly, does not gather in lumps and penetrates into all reliefs.

Do I need to sand the leveled surface? Of course, polishing the surface will not hurt, since it will be possible to remove single defects that you can detect when examining the wall in the light of a powerful lamp.

Method three - leveling drywall surfaces with a trowel (trowel)

GKL putty under wallpaper can be done using a trowel or, as it is also called, a trowel. Using a trowel, you can apply both a rough and finishing coat.

I’m talking about this technique because it exists and because it may be of interest to you. I’ll say right away that the method of working with a trowel does not have any special advantages compared to using a wide spatula. In addition, when choosing a trowel for applying putty, keep in mind that the use of this tool, despite its apparent simplicity, requires advising experience.

To work you will need the following:

• Wide trowel with straight edge;
• A narrow spatula for applying the mixture and removing excess;
• Putty with a semi-liquid consistency for applying the finishing layer.

When working with a trowel, I recommend using putties on mineral based. Such materials do not blacken when in contact with the sole of the trowel. This is especially true when smoothing the finishing layer, when you try to make it as smooth as possible, but dark stains remain on the surface.

As an example of leveling with a trowel, I offer a photo report on ceiling putty. Leveling the ceiling is rightfully considered the most difficult, so I think this instruction will be of interest to many.

To make it easier to work with putty, before use, polish the sole of the trowel with a felt wheel with GOI paste. The advice is relevant for both used and new tools.

• At the initial stage, we prepare the surface, namely, we clean the areas where the ceiling and walls meet with a regular spatula;

• We fill large irregularities with putty (in our case, this is a deep recess along the edge of the hole for installing a point);

• We scoop up the mixture with a narrow spatula and spread it along the edge of the trowel, as shown in the photo;

• We move the iron from the corner in one direction until we feel that most of the mixture remains on the ceiling;

• Next, remove the rest of the mixture and move an empty trowel along the already laid layer, but in a transverse direction, collecting excess putty and leveling the ceiling;
• After small area the surface is leveled, take a new portion of putty and move a full trowel from wet to dry;
• Using an empty trowel, pull off the excess mixture in the transverse direction;
• We go through the entire ceiling in the same way;

• Having reached the transition of the ceiling levels, apply the trowel with the mixture 0.5 cm from the step and pull it in the opposite direction, grabbing the previously puttied area;
• Next, we pull off the excess mixture in the transverse direction;
• After the ceiling is leveled with the first layer, let it dry for 24 hours;

Despite the fact that many experts apply the second layer when it is wet, that is, within an hour after applying the first second layer, I do not recommend doing this. In order to avoid removing the first layer with a smoothing iron when smoothing the second layer, the surface must dry for at least a day.

• Before applying the second layer, we again clean the corners from possible irregularities;
• We mix the putty after adding water to it, so that the consistency is thinner than on the previous layer;

• We apply putty in the same way as we did on the first layer, that is, cross to cross;

When applying the second layer, we constantly renew the putty. That is, we went through it once with a trowel, immediately removed the remaining mixture, mixed it into the main mass and added it again. This is done so that the leveling mixture does not dry out prematurely, since the application layer does not exceed 1 mm in thickness.

• After the second layer is applied, let it dry for 24 hours;

• We treat the surface with a paint float and P240 sandpaper or a sander, as shown in the photo.

At this point, the leveling of the drywall can be considered complete, which means that all that remains is to apply a layer of primer and begin painting.

Conclusion

Now that you have general idea To learn how to properly putty surfaces lined with gypsum plasterboard, you can try to independently carry out cosmetic repairs in an apartment or country house.

By the way, if you have any questions about how to putty drywall, ask in the comments to the instructions, I will be sure to answer everything.

October 7, 2016

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With the help of drywall, you can not only hide uneven walls or ceilings, but also carry out a huge amount of design ideas, for example, make various cascades and arches, thereby diversifying the design of the room.

Many inexperienced builders believe that plasterboard surfaces do not need putty. However, this is a huge misconception. Drywall, although it seems quite even and smooth to the naked eye, actually has many microcracks and irregularities. Regular putty will help fix them.

Peculiarities

Putty will help get rid of various defects on drywall. It will not only smooth out unevenness, but will also ensure the safety of the plasterboard sheets. For example, when removing wallpaper from a previously plastered plasterboard wall the drywall itself will remain intact and suitable for applying another solution or material.

Also, puttying walls or ceilings before painting significantly reduces paint costs.

When further painting walls or ceilings made of plasterboard, complete (in two stages: starting and finishing) puttying of the surface is mandatory, since the paint will highlight any unevenness or defects in the surface, both in daylight and in artificial light. If you plan to finish the wall with thick wallpaper or tiles, you can get by with one layer of putty (using starting putty). However, experts still advise to putty the walls in at least two stages, as this will be a more reliable and neat option.

For thick wallpaper, it is better to choose putty with a coarse-grained structure. After drying, no wall defects will be visible underneath, so you can only get by with starting putty. But for thin paper wallpaper, it is necessary to use both starting and finishing putty, since if you get by with one layer, after the wallpaper dries, all the surface irregularities and defects will become visible.

Types of putties

Modern building materials stores offer a huge assortment of various putty mixtures: both intended for certain type walls, and universal. To make a choice, you need to know how this or that mixture differs from others.

Types of putties are distinguished according to the following characteristics:

• by readiness for use;
• by appointment;
• by composition;
• by area of ​​application.

When ready for use

• Dry putties– the dry composition must be diluted with water to obtain a homogeneous solution. Dry putty has many advantages: low cost compared to ready-made solutions, long term storage, the ability to finish the surface in stages.
• Ready-to-use putty or liquid– an already prepared solution that can be immediately applied to the surface. Ready-to-use putty is convenient because you don’t need to worry about the correct consistency of the solution. Skipping the step of mixing the solution not only simplifies the work, but also saves time. However, it is not as durable as dry putty mixture and requires special conditions storage

By purpose

The plasterboard surface requires preliminary leveling, and the main objective putty – leveling and eliminating microcracks and surface joints. For different types works exist different varieties putties:

• Starting (leveling) putty– designed to eliminate deep defects, has a coarse-grained structure, is initial stage surface putty. When working with dense thick wallpaper or tiles, the starting putty can be used as a single layer.

• Finishing putty– used to mask defects remaining after the initial putty, has a soft, uniform structure, giving the surface an almost finished appearance. When working with paint or thin paper wallpaper finishing putty is a required layer. It will smooth out the unevenness of the starting putty, and the coating will look much neater.

• Universal putty- combines all the best properties of the first two, can be used at any stage of surface finishing, but has a fairly high price. However, experienced builders do not recommend using only universal putty. It is convenient to use as a final layer.
• Decorative textured putty– used as complete decorative coating. Using mineral chips in textured putty, you can create any voluminous textures and diversify the design of the room. Designer putty acts as final finishing surface and does not require additional painting.

By composition

• Plaster- have many positive properties, such as rapid shrinkage on the surface, environmental friendliness, quick drying and ease of leveling. To the main disadvantage gypsum putty poor resistance to moisture, since gypsum absorbs a lot of moisture. That's why gypsum putty absolutely cannot be used when decorating a bathroom or kitchen.

• Cement– durable and strong, withstands high temperatures well, resistant to moisture, therefore, ideal for finishing bathrooms and kitchens. The main disadvantage is the long drying time and uneven application. Also, cement putty can shrink slightly, so it is better not to use it in living rooms.

• Polymer – universal type putty, suitable for both residential and industrial premises. They are highly environmentally friendly and water resistant, have a smooth uniform coating, quick drying, reliability, and fast shrinkage. Polymer putty is sold immediately in finished form, so you don’t have to worry about mixing the solution to the correct consistency. The only negative is the high cost.

Polymer putty can be latex or acrylic. For work in interior spaces You should give preference to latex. Even when applied in a thin layer, unlike acrylic putty, it will retain all its useful properties: high strength and good adhesion to any materials. You can also purchase colored latex putty, which can save you paint costs in the future. But if latex putty is frozen during storage, it will become unusable. Therefore, when purchasing, you should be attentive to the storage conditions and shelf life of the solution.

Acrylic putty perfect for exterior finishing, as it is resistant to temperature changes and moisture.

By area of ​​application

• For outdoor use– must have good moisture resistance, thermal insulation, resistance to temperature changes and mechanical stress.
• For interior work – must meet the requirements of the room in which finishing is planned, have good adhesion to materials for further finishing and do not contain substances harmful to human health.

When choosing a putty, you should take into account the conditions and location of the work. In residential premises (especially in children's rooms and bedrooms), special attention must be paid to the composition of the putty. It must not contain substances that may be hazardous to health. In rooms with high humidity (kitchens and bathrooms), you should pay attention to putty mixtures that can withstand high temperatures and high humidity.

You also need to pay attention to the drying time of the putty. This criterion will help save time when finishing the room. However, for inexperienced builders, it is better not to choose a putty that dries too quickly. Due to inexperience, the leveling process will take longer than with an experienced master, and the putty should not dry out prematurely.

Tools

To putty drywall you will need the following tools:

• Spatula 15-25 cm wide (for basic work).
• Spatula 30-40 cm wide (for leveling).
• A spatula with 3x3 mm teeth (for reinforcing seams).
• Putty.
• Primer (for good adhesion of drywall with finishing material).
• Soft roller (for applying primer).

• Various containers or trays (for diluting putty, primer and washing tools).
• Reinforcing tape - serpyanka (applied to the joint line between plasterboard sheets).
• A hammer drill or drill with a special attachment (for mixing putty).
• Grater with clamps.
• Mesh for grater with clamps.
• Screws.

To putty the ceiling or high walls, you may need a stepladder.

Surface preparation

Plasterboard sheets have a fairly smooth surface, but this does not negate the fact that the surface must be prepared before finishing.

Before applying putty, it is also necessary to apply primer to the surface of the drywall. It provides better bonding of materials (adhesion), since, being absorbed into the base, it creates protective film, which prevents the moisture of the applied materials from penetrating the surface of the drywall. The primer will ensure uniform drying of the putty without the formation of microcracks.

For priming, you can purchase a universal primer solution that is suitable for any surface, including brick and concrete. But a more reasonable solution would be to use a primer specifically designed for priming drywall surfaces.

It is important to know that in order to finish plasterboard coverings, you should never use soil mixtures or solutions containing alkyds, as the paper layer will come off and the entire structure will become unusable.

The primer must be applied to a clean, dry surface. Fine dust can be removed construction vacuum cleaner, a soft brush or a slightly damp cloth (it should not be too wet).

Depending on the scope of work, you can use a roller, brush or spray to apply the primer. The brush is usually used in hard to reach places and for finishing seams. Typically, a roller is used for priming. The roller should have a long handle with a microfiber coat, as it absorbs moisture well and will not allow the solution to spread. A roller made of soft material. The primer is applied with a roller from top to bottom. It is important to avoid smudges of the primer, since after the primer layer has dried, the putty in these places will lie down and dry unevenly.

As soon as the soil begins to leak, it must be immediately spread over the surface.

When choosing a primer, you should pay great attention to the content of antibacterial substances. They will prevent the appearance of fungi and mold. This is especially important to consider when choosing soil for bathrooms, kitchens and rooms where humidity may be high.

Typically the primer is applied in one coat, but in bathrooms and kitchens when priming drywall it is better to apply two. One layer usually takes 4 – 6 hours to dry.

How to prepare the solution?

To begin with, it is important to know that the putty hardens quite quickly, so the volume of the mixed solution should be calculated for approximately the next 20 - 30 minutes of work.

Under no circumstances should you pour/pour the remaining solution/mixture that was used back into the jar! This will lead to the process of setting the solution, and the entire putty will become unusable. It is better to regularly mix a “fresh” solution than to constantly throw away the putty because it has started to set.

The solution should be mixed in the same container from which the work will then be done.

Step-by-step plan for preparing the solution:

1. In an absolutely clean container (bath), you need to add the amount of water required in the instructions (do not forget that you need to calculate the amount of water and mixture only for the next 20-30 minutes of work). The water should be clean and at room temperature.
2. The dry mixture must be poured evenly onto the surface of the water. Ideally, the powder should immediately become saturated with water and settle to the bottom of the bath.
3. For a good putty consistency, the mixture that has accumulated water should be approximately equal to the water level.
4. Using a spatula, carefully mix the solution. Much attention should be paid to the corners at the bottom of the container (bath) - the mixture may remain there and the putty will be of poor quality.

The result should be a solution of uniform consistency without lumps. The lumps need to be rubbed against the walls of the container and mixed with the rest of the mixture.

The finished putty solution should be thick and resemble thick sour cream. To make sure that the solution is the right consistency, just scoop it up with a spatula and turn it over. A solution of the correct consistency should stay on the spatula, slowly “sliding”, but not flowing off it.

Application technology

Once everything necessary has been prepared (tools, surface and solution), you can begin applying putty. For ease of use, you need step-by-step instructions.

The first step is to start reinforcing the seam. This is a necessary procedure, since the reinforcing tape will help strengthen the seam and prevent the sheets of drywall from coming apart, and will also prevent the appearance of cracks.

Reinforcing tapes vary in the quality of the material and the presence (or absence) of an adhesive base. In this case, it will be most convenient to use sickle tape with an adhesive side, designed specifically for drywall. But do not forget that the main fixing solution is putty.

It is important to know that you cannot use PVA glue to glue the reinforcing tape. This glue has water base and if it gets on the heads of the screws, over time it will cause the appearance of rust, which will appear in the final finish as yellow spots.

There will definitely be a gap between the sheets of drywall. Regardless of the width, it must be tightly filled with putty solution, using a narrow spatula. Putty must be applied in large quantities to tightly fill the seam.

The bath should be placed from below so that excess putty falls not onto the floor, but into the container.

When the seams are tightly sealed, you need to immediately remove excess putty from the surface, since if it dries, it can greatly complicate the execution next stages putties. This can be done with the same spatula. Using excess putty, you can immediately fill in the recesses from the self-tapping screws that are located nearby. This is done "crosswise". Excess also needs to be removed. Next, you need to wait until the putty sets and hardens. During this time, you can do the same work with all other seams.

When the putty on the seam hardens and gains the required strength, you can begin reinforcing. We prepare the amount of putty solution we need and cut the required length of the tape. It is recommended to use a 3mm x 3mm notched spatula to distribute the putty evenly.

First, using a regular spatula, apply a layer of putty along the entire length of the seam, then level it with a notched spatula. A notched putty knife will create even strips of putty with the right amount solution for setting the tape.

The serpyanka needs to be bent along the crease (the folding line is in the center of the tape) and the protruding side should be applied to the surface with putty. It is important that the protruding side of the tape lies exactly on the joint of the sheets. Then press down a little with your fingers: first in the center, then along the edges.

Next, you need to apply a little more putty to a wide spatula (in this case, the putty is a “lubricant” so that the spatula slides easily along the tape) and walk along the length of the serpyanka. The tape should “sink” into the putty, that is, there should be no air space under the tape. So it will fulfill its function one hundred percent.

To prevent the tape from deforming or moving, you need to hold it higher with another spatula.

After all these steps, you need to apply another layer of putty to the tape. In order for the solution to fill the entire space, it must be applied perpendicular to the seam. Then you need to level the putty layer. To do this, it is better to use a wider spatula. After this, making sure that the serpyanka does not wrinkle or stick out anywhere, it is necessary to carry out the final alignment. For final leveling, you need to apply a little mortar to the spatula and, being sure to pick up excess mortar from the surface, run it along the seam “to tear off”. The seam is left in this state until completely dry. After the putty hardens, you will get a strong monolithic structure that can withstand loads.

For fillet welds, there are special “corner” reinforcing tapes that simplify the process of reinforcing fillet welds.

The seam must be checked the next day. The putty may shrink slightly. To eliminate possible unevenness, you need to put a little putty on the spatula again and run the tool “to tear off” along the entire seam line.

Once all the seams have been reinforced, you can begin final stage– puttying the entire surface. Many people neglect this point, however experienced craftsmen It is still advised to putty the surface completely so that after painting the surface is free of minor defects.

Complete puttying is carried out in two steps, to provide best quality surfaces.

To begin, mix the solution into a bath or other convenient container. For application and leveling, you will need two spatulas: narrow (15 - 25 cm) and wide (30 - 40 cm). Using a narrow spatula, you should take the solution from the container, apply it to the surface and remove excess putty from the wide spatula, and with a wide spatula, distribute and level the putty over the entire surface.

So, the first step is to apply a fairly large amount of solution onto a narrow spatula and then onto the surface. Quickly and evenly distribute it over the surface using a wide spatula. You need to smooth out the putty using force, “to tear it off.” As a result, a thin, even layer should remain. When smoothing the putty, you must immediately remove its excess on a wide spatula with a narrow spatula. Don't try to cover it right away large area surfaces – thin layer The solution sets quickly, but you still need time to level and smooth it.