Finishing the ceiling with plastic panels is a budget-friendly and quick cladding option. Do-it-yourself installation of polymer panels with the right choice of materials, tools and knowledge of the nuances of cladding technology is very simple. Unlike the installation of other ceiling coverings, covering the ceiling with plastic panels does not require the help of a partner. Why did polyvinyl chloride become so popular that it began to be used in interior decoration not only to protect ceilings, but also for walls?

Material selection

The history of the appearance of PVC material that can replace expensive ceramic tiles and poorly painted panels, dates back to the 90s of the last century. At that time it was believed that the room, decorated with plastic panels, had the status of “European-quality renovation”. The material has not lost its popularity to this day. The finishing of bathrooms, balconies, loggias, offices and objects with high humidity cannot be done without the use of polymer panels.

The polyvinyl chloride used to produce this material is resistant to moisture and aggressive environments. It does not fade, is easy to clean, can be installed “with your own hands” without any problems, and is aesthetically compatible with other types of finishing.

Originality of PVC ceiling:

1. Smooth surface without preliminary preparation bases (in addition to priming).
2. Affordable price.
3. Durable and easy to care for.
4. Possibility of installing panels yourself, without outside help.
5. Noise insulation.
6. Range plastic panels, thanks to which the ceilings are made of PVC materials Can be combined with any type of wall decoration.
7. Waterproof.

When I first came to the store to buy plastic panels, I learned that there is a gradation of the material according to its purpose. It turns out that different materials are used for walls and ceilings. types of PVC slabs The main difference between them is their weight. Plastic ceiling panels are lighter than wall panels because they are not subject to mechanical stress. Finishing structural elements indoors or outdoors is also one of the factors when choosing PVC material.

Important! When purchasing plastic sheathing for exterior use, you should choose panels with improved technical characteristics. They are protected from exposure to precipitation and ultraviolet radiation.

When choosing a material, you need to visually inspect the planks. They should not have dents, scratches or other defects. PVC panels are profile design with stiffeners and voids. If you look at the end of the plank, then in addition to its even cut, you should see identical membranes clearly perpendicular to the edge. These are stiffening ribs; the strength of the material depends on their number and condition.

It is important to check the connection of the panels when purchasing. The quality of finishing walls or ceilings with your own hands depends on the integrity of the front covering. Lock connections must form a single canvas.

Before sheathing the ceiling with plastic, you need to prepare tools, calculate the number of panels and choose a method for attaching them.

Installation instructions and material calculations

Installation work should begin after the work area has been arranged with the necessary tools and materials available:

1. Level;
2. Roulette;
3. Hacksaw for metal;
4. Drill, hammer drill, screwdriver;
5. Self-tapping screws, dowels;
6. Metal profile or wooden beam;
7. Suspensions;
8. Square;
9. Liquid Nails.
10. Panels, fillets and wall starting profile.

This is a general list for different ways do-it-yourself plastic ceiling finishing. The first type of installation is a frameless cladding option. The base for mounting is a flat ceiling or chipboard. In both cases, it is necessary to install a wall starting profile on liquid nails around the perimeter of the room and begin attaching PVC panels in the direction from the window. On concrete base the material is mounted using adhesive mixtures on OSB boards thanks to self-tapping screws. Frameless finish ceilings (and walls) are rare and have shortcomings that disappear with the use of the frame method.

Wooden slats or galvanized profiles with hangers can be used as linear elements of the supporting structure under the cladding. When I made the ceiling in the bathroom with my own hands, I installed a metal frame. For rooms where there is no moisture, you can get by with wooden beams. Suspensions for the profile in my case were necessary, since the ceiling decoration included built-in spotlights and ventilation.

After completing the cladding of the bathroom walls, I glued along the perimeter of the room liquid nails flush with the tiles, profile UD 27/28, which did not reach the level of the floor slab by 12 cm. The surface was previously degreased with acetone.

Based on experience, I recommend using adhesive material synthetic rubbers and follow the instructions for its use. First, apply the composition to the profile and press it firmly against the tile so that it imprints. Then remove the UD 27/28 and wait about three minutes until the glue dries, then connect the surfaces to be glued.

The SD 60/27 profile is inserted into the mounted UD guides and attached to the floor slab with hangers. The pitch of the transverse metal slats of the LED should not exceed 600 mm, otherwise the plastic ceiling trim will sag. It is imperative to install the LED profile along the walls, which will be the ends for the plastic panel. When the frame is mounted, it’s time for fillets. This is a plastic plinth with a groove for the starting panel. I fastened the fillets with liquid nails, more precisely, Titan glue for mirrors, the same as when installing the UD profile.

I chose the seamless panels from Venta. Dimensions of one PVC element: 250x6000 mm. For the cladding I needed 4 slabs. To calculate the required amount of material: you need to divide the ceiling area by the area of ​​one slab and add 15% for errors and trimmings. Finishing on the frame begins with installation across the installed profiles. The plastic elements are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws.

How to cover a ceiling with plastic panels with your own hands wooden frame? It is necessary to prepare 20x40 beams and make holes in them with a diameter of 6 mm, in increments of 50-60 cm. Then attach the prepared ones along the walls wooden elements to the floor slabs using a hammer drill and a 6x60 mm dowel-nail. Make a sheathing with a distance between the beams of no more than 50 cm. Using a stapler with 6 mm staples, mount the starting profile around the perimeter of the frame, except for the wall to which the last plastic panel will be attached. This is the wall opposite the window. The last element of the prefabricated structure is mounted on liquid nails, with a starting profile pre-inserted into the panel. The described method of installing a plastic ceiling is suitable for lighting a room with a chandelier. If it is necessary to build in spotlights, then the sheathing should be lowered relative to the ceiling by 12 cm.

Ceiling finishing PVC panels with your own hands - that's pretty simple work, which you can easily produce yourself and save some money on hiring specialists. This finishing material is quite light and durable, while it has a long service life. Special additives ensure its temperature stability, non-flammability and absence of unpleasant odors. Finishing the ceiling with plastic panels does not require preliminary leveling of the surface. With its help you can hide utility lines, but you will have to sacrifice a few centimeters of wall height.

The modern construction market offers panels that imitate color and texture natural materials, and simply colorful products. It is only important to remember that covering the ceiling with plastic panels cannot be carried out using wall products. Ceiling strips are lighter and more flexible, making them easier to work with at height and they will not fall off under the influence of gravity.

The parameters of plastic panels are as follows: thickness ranges from 5 to 10 mm, width - from 250 to 500 mm, length - from 2700 to 3000 mm. Mounting profiles are available in standard length- 3000 mm.

First you need to calculate the area of ​​one panel (multiply the width by the length), and then the area of ​​the ceiling. The second number must be divided by the first, and then add 15% for trimming and stock. It is recommended to round the resulting figure to more so that during work you do not have to purchase additional material.

It is also very important to calculate the number correctly metal profiles or wooden slats. For this purpose, you need to draw on paper a proportionally reduced ceiling plan. After this, draw longitudinal lines along one wall, and set a distance of 400-600 mm between the profiles. Now it’s easy to calculate how much material is needed for the entire room.

Having completed the calculations, draw a line on the walls along the perimeter of the ceiling: more rigid profiles that can support the entire structure will be laid here. This data also needs to be recorded. The number of dowel screws is calculated based on the number of profiles and the installation pitch of fasteners measuring 30 cm. It is also advisable to add a little for reserve. To reduce the cost of work, you can replace the metal profile with a wooden one, and the fasteners with brackets.

Preparatory work

As mentioned above, finishing the ceiling with plastic does not require serious preparation; it is enough to do the following:

1. Remove the old coating, dismantle all lighting equipment, wires and clean the ceiling of dirt and dust.
2. Tap its surface with a hammer, checking for weak fragments.
3. If such are found, they should be removed, and the resulting defects and detected cracks should be repaired with cement-sand mortar.
4. Wait a few days for the solution to dry and apply an antiseptic primer.

Now you need to prepare the following tools and supplies:

• Construction level, pencil or marker, tape measure.
• Dowel screws or staples, metal scissors, profiles or wooden slats, hammer drill.
• Hacksaw, screwdriver.

Installation of panels on the frame

This method of finishing the ceiling with PVC panels with your own hands has become the most widespread. Before finishing the ceiling with plastic panels, markings are applied and a frame is mounted for future design, which will become a rigid and reliable foundation for her.

Ceiling markings

The first step is to identify the ceiling blockage using building level. This will be the lowest point. Taking into account this level, lines should be drawn along the perimeter of the walls under the ceiling. If you plan to install it on suspensions, it is important to consider the distance by which the surface must be lowered. After this, you need to find the center of the ceiling and draw a longitudinal line using a building level. Each new markup element must be checked for correct placement. Then apply longitudinal lines along the remaining area, retreating 400-600 mm.

Using a building level, surfaces are marked for installing the frame on the ceiling

Installation of suspended frame

In order to decorate the ceiling with plastic panels with your own hands in a high-quality manner, you need to correctly assemble the frame. This stage consists of the following steps:

• The metal profile is cut to length and leans against the markings. Holes are made in the profile and the wall at a distance of 300 mm from each other into which dowels are installed.
• After this, hangers are installed and the metal profile is fixed at a certain height. Then the ends are secured with screws.
• The edges of the suspended profile should be inserted into the cavity of the carrier around the perimeter and also secured with screws.

Installation of lathing on the ceiling under PVC installation panels

On a note! A 60x27 metal beam can be quite expensive for large areas, so you can save a little and buy a wooden frame.

If you plan to install lighting, then in the places where the lamps are fixed you need to strengthen the structure with jumpers. These products are mounted using special fasteners - crabs. You can also cut the profiles in the corners and bend them at right angles.

Mounting the frame directly to the surface

To cover the ceiling with PVC panels, you can use the following method of mounting the frame:

1. Installation of the supporting structure occurs in the same way as in the previous case. The edges of the profiles are also fixed with fasteners.
2. The profiles or beams are attached to the ceiling surface using dowel screws. It is important that the length of the product is sufficient, so it is recommended to choose fasteners with a length of 60 mm.
3. If the installation of bars is necessary to level the ceiling, then they are attached first, and then the frame is attached to them.
4. Using a building level and taking into account the markings, the frame is completely assembled.

Ceiling cladding with plastic panels is often carried out in order to hide utility lines and install spotlights. Installation of these systems must be carried out precisely at this stage. For safety reasons, it is recommended to run electrical wiring in a pre-installed corrugated casing. If a spark occurs, the box will extinguish it and thus prevent a fire. This element is mounted to suspensions or a side supporting structure.

Important! When wiring, you need to work only with products disconnected from the network. Connection can only be made after the installation of the ceiling panels has been completed.

Of these two options, a metal frame is preferable. A plastic ceiling in a house installed on such a frame will last for quite a long time. Wood slats They have a relatively short service life, but are cheaper and easier to install.

VIDEO:

Installation of panels

The finishing of ceilings with plastic panels looks like this:

• A special U-shaped profile is mounted on the installed supporting structure along the perimeter of the walls. Self-tapping screws are used for fixation. You can also use the rail to install the ceiling plinth.

• After this, they are mounted in the installed profile ceiling plinth. As a result, between this element and load-bearing structure a small gap is formed, which will be used for installing the panels.
• Now the first bar is installed. It is mounted on a U-shaped profile or in the resulting gap. To do this, the panel tenon is secured to the frame with a screw with a wide head, and the groove remains intact.

• Correct installation finishing materials checked by the building level.
• Next comes a set of ceiling panels, which are mounted in the groove of the previous element. At this stage, it is important to ensure the tightest contact of the products with each other. It is also recommended to frequently check the correct installation using a building level.
• After covering the area near the walls, it is necessary to cut holes in the panels for spotlights and install them according to the above diagram. For convenience, it is recommended to immediately take the wires out.

• Then the main part of the ceiling is sheathed. To install the last panel, you will have to trim the material. In addition, in order not to waste a lot of time on its installation, it is recommended to simply secure the panel to the wall with two screws; subsequently this connection will be hidden by the ceiling plinth.
• At the end, install the plinth and close the corners with special plastic plugs.

The ceiling covering with plastic is completed. All that remains is to connect the lamps to the previously routed cables, install them in the prepared holes and connect them to the electrical network.

VIDEO:

Glue mounting

Ceilings can also be finished with panels without assembling the frame. Let us immediately note that this method requires ideally prepared and flat surface. Liquid nails or tile adhesive are used as the working substance. Before covering the ceiling with plastic panels, the surface must be cleaned and primed. Then prepare the adhesive solution according to the instructions on the package. Using a putty knife, apply a thin, even layer to the back of the panel and tenon it to the corner. The following panels are mounted in the same way, inserting the tenon into the groove. The last element is trimmed if necessary. At the very end, the ceiling plinth is installed. This completes the finishing of the ceiling panels.

To sheathe the ceiling with plastic panels, you do not need specialized education or experience professional tool. It is enough to follow the above instructions and remember the safety rules when working with construction tools.

Practical and economical finishing plastic panels are optimal solution For glazed balconies and loggias. How to cover a ceiling with plastic panels? It’s very simple, but you still need to know certain nuances of the work.

Features of ceiling plastic panels

There are plastic panels designed to work specifically with the ceiling. They are lighter and thinner than wall ones, and therefore work with them must be carried out carefully. The characteristics of the material are determined by the area of ​​its use - ceiling panels are operated with less load and do not have increased requirements for strength.

Important: Ceiling finishing with plastic panels can only be installed in rooms where temperature changes do not exceed 20°C.

The modern market offers 3 options for plastic ceiling panels, differing in design and construction:

Read more about it in our review. In the article we're talking about about the features and characteristics of this finishing material.

Finishing the balcony ceiling with PVC plastic panels is possible with preliminary insulation. Pay attention to insulation such as polystyrene foam. All on this page.

The main advantages of plastic finishing

First of all, plastic panels moisture resistant- they do not deform when high humidity, and also do not form stains or streaks on the surface when wet. Other advantages also include:

1. Plastic is easy to clean and durable. Periodic wet cleaning will be sufficient for cleaning.
2. The resulting ceiling will be perfectly smooth and decorative - without additional priming or painting.
3. Easy installation and possibility of local repair.
4. The panels are installed on a frame, thanks to which there is a gap between the plastic and the base of the ceiling. air gap— it will act as heat and sound insulation.
5. Affordable price.

Important: If you want to properly insulate your balcony, use special mineral wool mats or polystyrene foam, installing them in an assembled frame.

Plastic panels also have disadvantages, but how significant they are, everyone must decide individually. Firstly, this material is of artificial origin, polymer based. So fans of “all natural” may see defects in this. However, plastic is completely safe to use. Secondly, fastening the panels involves joints. Thirdly, brightly colored plastic can fade over time - especially if the balcony faces the south.

The service life of a suspended ceiling made of plastic panels is about 10 years. Experts recommend using plastic light shades , since the fading of paints under the influence of ultraviolet radiation will not be so noticeable on them. But plastic panels are much more varied and when choosing a design, give preference to the option that best suits the style of the room - this could be imitation wood, options with floral prints, and so on. The type of lamps is also chosen based on the general concept - built-in ones are considered more practical, although they require lowering the ceiling. So the dimensions of the room directly affect the type of construction - all the nuances should be thought through before purchasing the material. It is better if you have a drawing, according to which all calculations will be carried out.

Preparatory work and selection of tools

Before starting work on covering the ceiling with plastic panels, the surface of the ceiling must be leveled and then measurements taken. Plastic is purchased with a 10% reserve. If necessary, they also buy thermal insulation panels. During the installation process you will also need:

Ceiling plinth for plastic panels

• plastic fastening strip (90° angle) in an amount equal to the perimeter of the ceiling;
• ceiling plastic plinth (in the same quantity);
• corners and connections for joining the skirting boards around the perimeter;
• self-tapping screws with a press washer for fastening plastic.

Purchase plastic panels only from trusted manufacturers. High-quality plastic will not dry out or crumble. In addition, dense panels will not show through.

If it is humid on your balcony or loggia, then it is better to make a metal frame with a guide and ceiling profile(as for drywall). The profile is attached to the ceiling with direct hangers. If the balcony is well insulated and dry, then for lathing under the plastic panels you can use a wooden beam, attached to the ceiling with self-tapping screws and dowels in increments of 1 meter.

Required tools include:

• level (water, laser);
• upholstery painting thread;
• hammer drill or impact drill;
• screwdriver;
• hacksaw for metal or wood;
• stationery or construction knife;
• construction corner;
• pencil,
• yardstick;
• hammer.

Ceiling cladding - how to carry out quality work

Before constructing the frame, the ceiling surface should be carefully primed - this will prevent concrete and plaster from falling onto the plastic surface.

Important! Work is not carried out if temperature regime indoors below 10°C. Also, before installation, the plastic is taken out onto the balcony 48 hours in advance for acclimatization.

So, how to cover the ceiling on a balcony with plastic panels? First, a ceiling box made of wooden beams or metal profiles is installed. To do this, the horizontal of the future surface is determined, all corners in the room are measured and the lowest one is selected. Measure 4-5 cm down from it, which will allow you to place a recessed lamp in the frame in the future (most of them have a base height of 4 cm).

The horizontal line is marked with a level, and then holes are drilled in the profile along the marked strip for attaching dowels.

UD and CD profiles for metal frame for ceiling

After this, dowels are inserted and the UD profile is fastened level (along the entire perimeter of the room). Then hangers for the SD profile are fixed (step 50-60 cm). The flatness is checked by tensioning the line between the walls, after which the installation of the box is considered complete.

If a wooden beam is used to install plastic panels on the ceiling, then it will need to be leveled horizontally by placing bosses of the required thickness under it.

Plastic panels are installed on the prepared frame. The panels are pre-cut taking into account the length of the ceiling. If the room has incorrect geometry, then cutting is not done in advance - each subsequent panel is marked and cut after the fact. The actual fastening of the panels to the profile is carried out with special self-tapping screws - “bugs”.

Installation of plastic panels on a pre-prepared wooden frame

Important points in installing lamps

A ceiling made of plastic panels is ideal for creating built-in lighting. To place lighting fixtures in the panel, you must first attach the material to the ceiling, and then mark on it the location of the future lamp. At the marking site, a hole is cut corresponding to the mounting diameter of the lamp.

In the case of using recessed lamps, the ceiling level can be lowered by 10-12 cm, and for overhead lamps it will be sufficient to reduce the level by the thickness of the profile (beam).

At the place where the lamp is mounted, two additional timber(profile) to strengthen the sheathing. Electric wire must be placed in a corrugated plastic sleeve and insulated at the ends. Installation lighting fixtures carried out when all work on the ceiling cladding is completed.

When all the plastic panels are installed on the ceiling, a ceiling plinth is drilled along its entire perimeter. This allows you to hide uneven edges of the material caused by cutting the panels. Once the baseboard is installed, you can enjoy quality work.

Ceiling made of plastic panels photo

We invite you to look at photographs on the topic of our article about covering the balcony ceiling with plastic panels. All photos are clickable.

Ceiling made of plastic panels video

In this section, we bring to your attention a video that is an addition to the instructions described above about installing a suspended ceiling made of plastic panels on a balcony and loggia. You will be able to watch the entire installation process.

Plastic has many supporters and no less opponents. But if you need an inexpensive, quickly installed and attractive finish, then one of the most popular options is plastic panels. Every year their range is increasing. There are plain, striped, checkered, with flowers and plant elements, imitating brickwork, natural stones, etc. Of all this variety, the ceiling made of plastic panels is usually made of a single color. And most often - white or very close to it - with a slight tint, such as “baked milk”, ecru, Ivory and so on.

Depending on the type of surface, they can be glossy or matte. There are collections with a rough surface - for those who prefer original solutions. Also available with shiny inserts. But since ceilings made of plastic panels are almost always made in technical rooms - kitchen, bathroom, toilet, balcony - small sizes, as a rule, force you to choose glossy surface: it visually raises the ceiling, and due to reflection the room seems more spacious. Also, reflections on the ceiling increase the illumination - when matte ceiling it is necessary to take more lamps or increase their power.

Harmful or not

You can often hear that plastic has no place in the house. Perhaps, but we have plastic almost everywhere. They even package goods in it; many of our products in the kitchen and bathroom are also made of plastic. PVC panels are made from the same group of plastics as syringes and food containers. What’s nice is that this material does not have pores in which bacteria and other microorganisms can settle. If there is a nutrient medium on the surface and the conditions are favorable, they will multiply, but they can be removed with one movement of a rag soaked in soapy water or a disinfectant solution. Plastic panels are truly hygienic. Proof can be considered the fact that the sanitation station allows them to be used in medical institutions.

There are plastic panels mirrored or with mirrored parts - stripes

The second point that stops many: the flammability of plastics. They really are burning. They begin to maintain the flame at a temperature of +360°C. For comparison: fiberboard also begins to burn at +250°C. If we compare these materials in terms of the amount of smoke they emit, plastics emit 40-50% less smoke.

Another argument: the ceiling made of plastic panels does not breathe. If you live in a private house and have a ventilated attic above, air exchange is important. If you live in a high-rise building, you still need to install a ventilation system, which is a must in both the kitchen and the bathroom with toilet. To prevent condensation from accumulating behind the ceiling, build a couple of ventilation grilles in opposite corners. Although, the ceiling is still not airtight and with sufficient air exchange no problems arise.

Types of plastic ceiling panels

All PVC panels are divided into two categories: wall and ceiling. They are distinguished by their rigidity and weight: on the ceiling it is not important mechanical strength, therefore the material is made lightweight, with thin walls. You need to handle them carefully: you can crush them even with two fingers. Is it possible to mount Wall panels on the ceiling. It is possible, but they are more expensive, and their higher strength is not in demand. In addition, they are heavier, so the load on the frame (if there is one) will be slightly increased and this must be taken into account when installing it.

Now about the sizes of the panels and the types of their surfaces. There is a material whose appearance resembles clapboard: the same stripes, only made of plastic. A ceiling made from such panels is also called slatted because the surface is very similar in appearance.

An almost flat, crack-free surface with hardly visible joints is obtained from seamless plastic panels. The joints of such panels are almost invisible: the front surface is flat and smooth, and on the sides there is a tongue and groove, like on a regular lining, with the help of which the skin is assembled.

There is also sheet plastic. It is more difficult to work with and is rarely used: it is necessary if columns or other non-linear surfaces are finished, and it is more convenient to assemble the ceiling from slats.

The advantages of ceilings made of plastic panels include ease of care: almost any dirt is washed off with warm soapy water. The appearance remains unchanged for about 5-10 years - depending on the quality of the plastic.

How to make a ceiling from plastic panels

When purchasing PVC slats, you will also need finishing profiles - moldings - with which you decorate the ends and joints. Their choice depends on the configuration of your room and how exactly you are going to make the ceiling. There are two options: make a suspended ceiling or attach the plastic directly to the main one.

Suspended ceiling made of plastic panels

On the one side, suspended ceiling allows you to covertly lay communications without having to drill walls. On the other hand, it “eats” some height. It will take a minimum of 3 cm. But this is the case if the lamps are installed with ordinary ones, and not built-in ones. To install a built-in lamp, the false ceiling must be lowered from the main ceiling by 8-12 cm. You will not find smaller lamps, except furniture or LED ones. If you put them in sufficient quantities and separately illuminate the mirror, then there should be enough illumination.

Assembling the frame

When installing a suspended ceiling, a frame is assembled from guides. Most often, profiles are used for working with drywall. If you are making a ceiling in a bathroom or kitchen, take galvanized profiles and fasteners. In drier rooms this is not critical. They also assemble a frame from wooden blocks of 30*30 mm or larger cross-section.

First nail the planks or profiles around the perimeter, placing them all level. Then, intermediate guides are attached to standard hangers (there are two types) or wooden blocks in increments of 50-60 cm. They are also aligned so that they are in the same plane as the previously installed ones (it’s easier to do if you stretch the threads between the already installed ones and align them).

If you decide to make a minimum indentation, just to lay the corrugated hose - 3 mm, then the planks are nailed directly to the ceiling. If necessary, the level is leveled using pads - pieces of plywood, wood wedges, etc. In this case, the frame looks something like this.

Installation of starting strips

After the frame is assembled, you can begin installing the plastic panels. It starts with setting up a starting profile. In the case of a ceiling, ceiling molding is also used.

It is attached close to a profile or strip fixed around the perimeter of the room. The edges are filed at an angle of exactly 45°. The length must be measured very accurately: the slightest discrepancy leads to the appearance of gaps. On the background white ceiling and white profiles (or colored, it doesn’t matter), the cracks turn black very clearly. If they are small, it will be possible to cover them with putty, but it is better to cut them off clearly: exactly along the length of the wall or with a slight spacer of 1 mm.

The cut strip can be glued or screwed with self-tapping screws. It is better to glue ceiling molding (with liquid nails). This way the joint turns out perfect: when gluing you press the bar tightly, when screwing it onto the “bugs” you cannot achieve this effect, since it is twisted forward a little.

On the side that goes to the wall, apply a zigzag thin strip glue. The surface of the wall is degreased (you can use 646 solvent). After drying, the piece is set in place, pressed tightly along its entire length and torn off. There should be some glue left on the wall. Leave it to dry for a few minutes (4-8 depending on the viscosity, the bar should not float, and the glue should stick well) and then put it in place. To be sure that the plank is level, take a rule, a ruler, an even block and check the level of the glued starting profile. If necessary, until the glue has completely set, the bar is adjusted.

Having glued the starting profiles on three sides (letter P), they are left to dry, otherwise, when installing the planks, they can be moved from place. After 8-12 hours the glue will harden and installation can continue.

If during gluing “liquid nails” are squeezed out somewhere, do not clean it. Wait until it is completely dry, then pry it off with a sharp knife. The glue will simply break off and there will be no traces left. If you try to remove it liquid, it will only smear and stain everything around.

Installation of plastic panels on the ceiling

After the glue has dried, you can begin installing the plastic panels themselves. Measure the size from one joint of the already installed skirting boards to the other, add 1.5-1.8 cm to this value. Cut the panels to this length. There is no need to make them across the entire width or length of the room - they will not appear in profile. If the geometry of the room is ideal, you can cut a lot at once. If there are deviations in size, make several pieces at a time, adjusting the length as you go. You can cut plastic with a jigsaw or grinder.

The first panel fits into the previously installed molding on three sides. It is placed with the spike forward - in the bar. Sometimes, if the finishing profile is made of soft plastic, top part(mounting shelf) bends, which creates difficulties during installation. To reduce the deflection, this edge can be secured with self-tapping screws. This will make it easier to insert the plank, otherwise you will have to correct it with a spatula, putting the panel in place. It should fit into the plinth or starting profile exactly along its entire length. The inserted strip is secured to each guide with a self-tapping screw. To attach to a wooden frame, you can use a stapler with staples (if you are installing it in a bathroom or kitchen, then take stainless steel or galvanized staples).

The installation of subsequent stripes is the same. They are installed first with one edge - into the molding (it goes into the baseboard by 6-7 mm), then insert the other edge. After that, the bar is leveled by lifting the middle with your hand and eliminating the deflection, tapping the edge with your palm, driving the lock into the groove. It doesn't take much effort, just to make sure it fits tightly. From below you will see that there is no gap at the joint, which means the strip is normal.

If there is an assistant, he supports installed panel so that it does not fall out while you are securing it with screws (staples). If you work alone, you can eliminate the sagging by gluing small pieces of double-sided tape to the profile. They will hold the bar until you secure it. This is how you assemble all the panels.

During the installation process, do not forget to cut holes for installing lamps. You can do this with a ballerina or a ring attachment, you can try with a jigsaw, but if you know the tool well and can do it round hole. As it turns out, you can make a hole a regular drill with a thin drill...how? Watch the video. There are a couple more good tips there.

Having installed the strip or strips in which there is a hole for the lamp, you immediately mount it, connect it and check it. If this is not done right away, problems may arise later: how can you connect the wires if the entire ceiling is already assembled? Just disassemble part of it. What if you put the last strip on glue? We'll have to break it. That’s why we install and check its functionality right away.

Installing the last panel

The most difficulties arise when installing the last strip. It usually has to be trimmed. Measure the actual distance on one side of the ceiling and on the other. The difference can be several centimeters. There is nothing unusual or complicated about this. But then there are two options:

• Simply insert the trimmed strip into a pre-glued starter profile or plastic plinth. If the panel width is sufficient, this is possible. But then you need to subtract about 5-7 mm from the measured distance and cut off the strip. Otherwise you won't insert it. And so you have to carefully adjust it with something thin (a steel spatula) so that it falls into place. After several attempts, it still works out... But besides the installation difficulties, there is one more drawback: after a while, since the strip is a little shorter, it moves away (sinks more into the molding) and a small gap appears in the ceiling.
• The second option is to glue the strip. Then, cutting off the last panel, set aside the previously measured distance on the ceiling as it is. And not from the beginning of the panel itself, but from the thrust bar. Then she's in pure form glued to “liquid nails”. Only the glue is applied not to the strip, but to all the guides. Both the one along the wall and the one perpendicular to the installation (to which they were attached with self-tapping screws). Further, the technology is the same: they applied it, pressed it down, set it aside for a few minutes, and then finally installed it. The disadvantage of this method is that this strip is not removable. It will need to be broken if necessary. Therefore, leave one more in reserve - just in case.

The installation of a plastic ceiling made of PVC panels is almost complete. It remains to install the last plastic plinth. First, the mounting strip on it is cut off: you leave only the baseboard. Afterwards, you also cut it at the corners at 45°, try it on, and cut it exactly. After trying it on again “dry” and making sure that the size is correct, apply glue to the plinth, only on both shelves: the one that will be glued to the ceiling, and the one that will stick to the wall.

Sealing cracks with acrylic

Actually, the installation is finished. But sometimes another operation is necessary: ​​covering all the gaps with white acrylic. This operation is not necessary if you bought high-quality panels that have ideal geometry - French and Belgian. After their assembly there is no need for correction: there are no saggings that form due to the fact that the panels are uneven. Otherwise, we take acrylic sealant, insert the tube into mounting gun, and fill all the cracks and gaps. Usually these are joints and corners, as well as the junction plastic skirting board with a ceiling. Often there are so many cracks that you have to go through the entire perimeter.

Filling in the cracks in small areas 30-40 cm each, removing all excess and leveling the seam. Acrylic is well leveled until it sets, and this is a matter of seconds. Therefore, they smeared the piece and corrected it. If everything is fine, continue to apply. You can remove excess acrylic with a soft cloth, but sometimes it’s more convenient to use your finger - for some reason it turns out smoother. Having covered the piece, take an object with a sharp and even edge (a small spatula) and a damp sponge. Excess putty is cut off evenly with a sharp corner of a spatula, then rubbed with a damp sponge until it is clean, otherwise you won’t be able to wipe it off later. So go through the entire perimeter and leave to dry for 8-12 hours.

After the acrylic dries, it can be drawn into the seam. You have to take the tube again and fill the cracks that appear, rub it in, remove the excess and wash off the smudges. This second time is usually the finishing time. After this layer dries, streaks remain on the plastic ceiling. Wipe them with a damp, clean sponge and then rub gently soft cloth to shine. Now the ceiling made of plastic panels is ready, and after installing the lamps, the repair can be considered complete.

How to attach to the ceiling

If the ceiling is already level and does not need level correction, plastic panels can be attached directly to it. The procedure is the same: first the starting profile, then strips cut to size are inserted into it, securing at least every 50 cm.

You choose fasteners depending on the material from which the ceiling is made. You can hit wood with nails or staples from a stapler. It’s more difficult with concrete: self-tapping screws won’t work, and you’ll have a hard time drilling a hole for a dowel for each fastening. Then it’s better to assemble the frame with a minimum distance from the ceiling and then assemble everything as described above.

Another option is to glue it on liquid nails. The technology is well-known, but its disadvantage is that such a ceiling made of plastic panels turns out to be non-removable and will have to be completely dismantled if something happens.

Ceiling lamps made of plastic panels

We are not talking about design or quantity - here everyone decides for themselves, but about the type of lamps and power supply. There are two options: install conventional lamps at 220 V or with a step-down transformer at 12 V. In the first option, ordinary incandescent or housekeeper lamps are installed, in the second - halogen or LED. In any case, a separate circuit breaker with an RCD should be allocated for lighting the bathroom or kitchen, which will turn off the electricity supply in the event of a short circuit.

Features of installation and selection of 220 V lamps

If you install 220 V lamps, and install even low-power (40-60 W) incandescent lamps in them, you will have to somehow take care of the thermal insulation of the housing. As the lamp heats up, its body also gets very hot. The heated body causes the plastic to darken and warp over time. Therefore, glue a layer of some flexible heat-insulating material onto the body.

The second point concerns electrical safety when working with 220 V lighting. In the bathroom, it is necessary to install lamps with a high degree of protection: not lower than IP44. This means that the lamp body is protected from water jets. Such lamps cost a lot: the technology is complex. Second point: most of them are quite bulky, since the body is usually ceramic. Simply hanging it on plastic will not work: you will need mortgages. They are installed when assembling the frame: these are additional jumpers in the places where the lamps will be attached.

Halogen and LED

Since lamps of this type require only 12 V, the electrical safety requirements are lower. In principle, any design is suitable. Power from the panel after the machine is supplied to the transformer, and from it to the lamps. Up to 4 lamps can be powered from one transformer, but there is a limitation in the instructions for them: the maximum length of the wire to the lamp should not exceed 2 meters. The lamps also work normally at a distance of 2.5-2.7 meters. At a higher voltage the voltage drop is already significant and the glow is weaker.

If you decide to place the transformer outside the bathroom to improve safety, this is a serious limitation, especially if the bathroom is quite large. Then it will have to be moved to the bathroom and hidden behind a suspended ceiling made of plastic panels (the thickness of the device is about 3-4 cm).

Sometimes each lamp has its own transformer. This is normal, it just costs more, but long distance between the lamps is justified.

Repairing the ceiling in the kitchen with plastic panels is a budget option creating a practical and quite attractive externally in a room where every person spends a considerable part of his life.

The kitchen is the room in which it is necessary to use materials with certain properties to decorate the ceiling surface. In particular, they must be resistant to changes (and, note, constant) in humidity and temperature, and not change their appearance under the influence of these negative factors, be easy to care for and safe for health. Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) panels meet these requirements. They make it possible to obtain an aesthetic ceiling covering with minimal costs for its installation and materials used.

Kitchen ceilings made of plastic

Plastic panels differ from each other in shape, geometric dimensions and color shades. This allows you to create truly individual interiors in the kitchen. The most popular products are those manufactured in the format of 10mm wide stripes. This form of panels is called lining. It is very convenient to work with such strips. They are equipped with either a so-called polka lock or European latches (the latter are considered more reliable in operation). Soot, grease deposits and other contaminants deposited on the ceiling made of plastic panels can be easily removed with soapy water. PVC coating can also be cleaned using special products produced by the modern chemical industry.

But there is one caveat. Kitchen ceilings made of mirrored or glossy polyvinyl chloride products cannot be washed with abrasive compounds, as there is a high risk of damage to the coating. The panels we are interested in are not afraid of water. If your upstairs neighbors flood you, the plastic coating will not deteriorate. An important advantage of PVC finishing is the ability to hide various household communications under the ceiling, ranging from water pipes and ending electrical wiring. And home craftsmen, who are accustomed to renovating their homes on their own, really appreciate the fact that to install panels made of polyvinyl chloride, they do not need to perform labor-intensive operations in order to. PVC products are mounted on a pre-constructed frame and mask even significant flaws in the ceiling surface.

High-quality finishing of the kitchen ceiling is only possible if you correctly select plastic products to perform this operation. It is important to know that not all PVC panels presented on construction market, can be used in kitchens and living spaces in general. Some careless manufacturers strive to reduce the cost of their products as much as possible. For these purposes, they use low-quality raw materials for the manufacture of plastic lining.

Variety of PVC panels

The results of such a pursuit of profit are disastrous. Cheap products are short-lived - their appearance deteriorates after just a couple of years of use. In addition, such low-quality coatings can be harmful to your health. It is not at all difficult to purchase really good PVC products. Follow two main rules:

1. Never buy panels that have a sharp bad smell. Sellers will assure you that it will wear off over time and everything will be fine. But that's not true. Such products, believe me, are initially of poor quality and potentially unsafe.
2. Buy lining with certificates of quality and compliance with Sannorms adopted in our country. In this case, the risk of buying hazardous materials comes down to zero.

Also, when choosing plastic, you should consider other important points. Do not take canvases that have inclusions and an unevenly colored surface: color transitions within one panel must be very smooth - not conspicuous. It is not advisable to install too soft and thin PVC products in the kitchen. Be sure to pay attention to the edges of the lining. There should be no roughness on them (even very small ones). The presence of these significantly complicates the process of installing the ceiling and does not allow the creation of integral structures.

If you want to check the quality of the plastic, simply squeeze the panel offered to you with two fingers (press hard enough). Durable material should not break or crack. Only slight deformation may appear on its surface. We will not give any special recommendations regarding the choice of appearance of plastic panels. It seems that you yourself will be able to decide what kind of ceiling made of PVC panels you want to see in your kitchen. There won't be any real problems here. The stores have canvases for every taste. If you wish, it is easy to purchase any lining - leather, natural wood, ceramics, steel, bamboo.

For lovers original interiors I can advise you to reverse Special attention to the increasingly popular translucent and mirror coatings. With their help, it will be very easy to radically transform your kitchen. When choosing plastic lining, do not forget about the main thing - your ceiling should be in harmony with general style kitchens. Another little advice. Many experts say that dark ceiling surfaces in kitchens do not look the best in the best possible way. It is much wiser to use light and lightweight panels - beige, dark blue, pastel - to decorate this room. Such shades expand (visually) the room and create a positive atmosphere in it.

To finish the ceiling with plastic, you need to purchase it from the right quantity PVC panels. Standard products have a length of 2.7–3.0 m, a width of 0.25–0.5 m and a thickness of 5 to 10 mm (remember that it is advisable to choose wider and thicker products). It is not difficult to determine the required amount of material. Measure the area of ​​the ceiling surface and divide it by the area of ​​one PVC sheet (the latter value is on the packaging of the panels). And then add another 15 percent of the material to the resulting number. The surplus will be used for scraps and waste in work.

PVC panels for ceilings

We will install the panels on the frame. To manufacture it, you will need rigid metal (marking - UD), which are mounted around the perimeter of the room, and lightweight (CD) profiles, which serve as transverse load-bearing elements. Their number is calculated as follows. Draw a scale diagram of the ceiling surface (use notebook sheet in a box), put all the necessary profiles on the drawing (take the distance between the transverse strips to be approximately 0.6 m). Consider how many profiles you need in total. You should immediately calculate the number of self-tapping screws with which PVC products will be fixed, as well as dowels (they are needed for installing rigid frame elements).

For every 0.5 m length plastic product take 1 self-tapping screw, and for the same profile length – 1 dowel. If you want to make a skeleton for plastic from wood, it is better to use 6 mm staples instead. Then decide on required quantity skirting boards (they are produced in lengths of 3 meters), purchase materials for the construction of a metal frame (fastening angles and parts), prepare a simple working tool (electric drill, hacksaw, screwdriver, square, level, pliers, knife, hammer, stapler and staples for it ). You are all ready to start work.

Let's look directly at how to make a plastic ceiling in the kitchen. First you need to build a skeleton for PVC ceiling covering. Let's say right away that we recommend making the frame from metal elements. Wooden sheathing in the kitchen will not last long. Whatever by special means If you haven't treated the wood, it will still deteriorate quite quickly due to the high humidity in the room where you cook food every day. And then you will have to do everything installation work again.

Installation of a frame for installing panels

Make the frame according to this scheme:

1. Using a building level (water tubular device), mark the position of the lower part of the skeleton. Place marks in the middle of the kitchen and in its corners according to the standard method, using a chokeline or a cord rolled in blue.
2. Mount the lower part of the UD profiles according to the mark made. The distance between the lower level of the sheathing and the main one ceiling surface maintain at least 25 cm. If the distance is made smaller, you will not be able to install profiles without additional cutting of the ceiling.
3. Fix CD profiles onto U-shaped fasteners. The distance between the crossbars, as you remember, should be about 60–70 cm. You can install profiles more often. Then the structure will be much more reliable and durable. Fasten the metal strips with fleas - special metal screws. If used wooden blocks, use 2.5 cm wood screws.

After installing all the profiles, you need to level them. This is easy to do using strong thread. Just pull it between the profiles and you will see whether the installation work was done well or not. If necessary, level the structure.

All that remains is mere trifles - installing a plastic sheet. You need to cut the panels so that their length is 5 mm less than the distance between the kitchen walls, and then follow these steps. First, fix the fastening strips to the profiles and insert the skirting boards, pre-cut to a given length, into the existing grooves. Then slide the very first plastic panel into the gap between the fastening element and the baseboard, attach it to the profiles with screws. And all subsequent PVC products are inserted into the groove of the previous ones and secured to the sheathing with self-tapping screws.

Areas on the ceiling where heating pipes or other communications are laid are easy to bypass. Cut the required cross-section holes in the PVC panels and continue installation. The last piece of canvas should be cut to required sizes from the side of their installation part. And then push it into place (between the profile and the bar) and fix it in the groove of the penultimate PVC product. All you have to do is mount the last plinth and cover mounting strips plastic baguette. Finishing is complete!