Expansion joints between ceiling tiles are one of the most difficult surface defects. For decades, people have struggled with this problem, but cracks have reappeared due to shrinkage of the building and seasonal soil movements. Construction market proposes to solve this issue by installing a hanging structure that will hide all defects. However, only a few can afford such an expensive purchase, and the dimensions of the room are not always suitable. How to seal the seams between the slabs on the ceiling to forget about this problem forever?

To prevent the ceiling seams from being visible, it is necessary to carry out a number of finishing measures using special means. But first you need to prepare the surface for work - remove the old coating. It is also worth ridding the seams of cement and lime.

Thorough priming can only be carried out on a dry, cleaned ceiling.

During the work process, you cannot proceed to applying the next layer until the previous one has dried. This important nuance which should be followed. Otherwise, the quality of the work performed will suffer.

How to seal the seams on the ceiling between the slabs: a quick way to get rid of large cracks

If as finishing material wallpaper or fabric will be used for the ceiling, then you can seal the seam between the plates using construction foam and putties. It's simple and quick way, which is most often used in the presence of wide and deep cracks.

If your future plans include completely leveling and painting the ceiling, it is better to use more in a quality way sealing the seam.

Otherwise, after some time the surface will have to be decorated again. Because rust may form on the ceiling in the grout areas, which the paint will not be able to hide.

The process of covering a seam is divided into several stages:

• First, the crack is widened using a hammer drill. For this work, it is better to use a special spatula, which is included in the kit.
• Next, the seam is cleaned using construction knife. Then coat the crack with a primer deep penetration. This stage of work is best done using a thick paint brush.
• After this, the seam is filled with polyurethane foam using a construction gun. After 30 minutes of drying, the excess material is cut off so that a smooth surface is obtained. For best result It is better to use a stationery knife.
• Next, mix the primer from the dry construction mixture, which is then carefully covered with a seam using a spatula. This should be done with confident rubbing movements so that the putty enters all the voids of the foam.
• After 30 - 40 minutes, apply a second layer of the prepared mixture using a wide spatula.

In a similar way, it is better to close all the holes that are on the surface. Including the places where the pipes enter the ceiling, if any. After the repaired holes and cracks have dried, the entire surface of the ceiling should be primed and puttied.

How to close the seams on the ceiling: preparing the surface for painting

This method is perfect for eliminating small cracks on a surface for which whitewashing or painting has been chosen. The quality of the work performed will directly depend on the time given for each layer to dry. Therefore, to get perfect ceiling, it is important to follow the instructions exactly.

Sealing of seams is carried out in several stages:

• The first step is to widen the crack and clean it. Next, the seam should be primed and left until completely dry for 12 o'clock.
• Then you can move on to putty. For this job it is better to use building gypsum, which must be diluted in small quantities to a liquid state using PVA glue. It should be remembered that you can only work with this material for a few minutes.
• The diluted mixture should be placed on an auxiliary spatula and begin to be rubbed into the seam. After closing the crack, the protruding part of the hardening material must be carefully removed, thereby leveling it with the surface of the ceiling. Next, the seam should be covered and left to dry completely for 12 hours.

Another excellent putty option is diluted tile adhesive. cement based. The use of this material almost completely eliminates the possibility of a crack appearing along a closed seam.

The final stage will be gluing a special painting mesh to the seam, which is then covered with finishing putty along the entire length. The final layer should be left to dry completely for 12 hours. After this time, you can begin the final puttying of the entire ceiling and subsequent finishing.

Joint between wall and ceiling: sealing methods

Another common problem is the presence of a crack between the wall and the ceiling. This defect is an obstacle to high-quality finishing premises and spoils the whole appearance rooms.

There are several materials that can be used to seal the joint between the wall and the ceiling:

• Polyurethane foam;
• Gypsum solution;
• Synthetic putty;
• Moisture-resistant putty.

The most practical and easy to use is polyurethane foam. When dry, this material expands, filling all the voids between the ceiling and the wall.

Large joints can be closed using reinforcing mesh, which must be placed in the resulting cracks. Cotton (or linen) fabric soaked in an adhesive solution is often used and placed over the joint. The final stage, regardless of the chosen material, will be the application of a layer of plaster, which will consolidate the result.

What to do if joints are visible on the ceiling: final leveling of the surface

After completing the work to close the cracks, you should begin the final leveling of the surface. This is done using abrasive mixtures.

An ideal surface will be obtained if you use non-woven fabric. It should be glued to the ceiling before the final putty. This material helps remove minor irregularities, allowing you to get a smooth ceiling.

After application finishing putty the surface should be primed one last time. After the work has been completed, you can give the ceiling any color by applying paint with a spray bottle.

Recommendations from professionals: how to seal the seams between ceiling tiles (video)

Seams between ceiling tiles are a long-standing problem, which today is easily solved with the help of special materials and compositions. Picking up suitable option, you should focus on the size of the crack and desired method further surface finishing. Get the perfect ceiling without hanging structures really. The main thing is to carry out the work step by step and observe all the important nuances.

Experienced craftsmen know how to make the joint between tile and tile unnoticeable. Of course, if it comes to a straight surface (floor or wall), then there are no problems with joining tiles and tiles. Plastic crosses are usually installed between them, which determine the width of the seam. After the adhesive has dried, the crosses are removed and the seam is filled with a fugue. Everything is very simple. The hardest part is joining the tiles in the corners.

There are several technologies for joining tiles in corners, where different devices are used. The simplest option is to install a special tile, which is a corner. True, this element can be used to cover an external corner, for example, the protrusion of a column or step.

The process of laying corner tiles is no different from straight ones. She is also put on glue solution, which is applied to two adjacent planes adjacent to one corner of the room. The adhesive composition is leveled with a notched trowel, the tiles are laid in place and leveled. Even a novice master can handle this process. It is important here to accurately align the cladding in planes, placing crosses between the elements.

Using Trims

The most popular option for finishing corners is the use of trims. These are special profile inserts that are made of plastic. For external corners, trims are L-shaped profiles; for internal corners, they are a profile in the form of a concave arc. Before moving on to the cladding, it is necessary to glue the profile itself. To do this, you can use liquid nails, sealants or the tile adhesive itself.

It should be noted that installing trims is not only an even joint between tiles, it is a unique design approach to solving the issue of room design. A good trim, precisely matched to the color of the tile, is also an excellent protection for the junction of the cladding elements; it is also a decorative element in the interior.

Trimming tile edges

This is probably the most difficult option For exterior finishing corners of the room. The thing is that the ends of the two joined tiles are cut at an angle of 45°. This is not at all easy to do, especially if we are talking about pruning with your own hands.

For this procedure, you can use a grinder or an electric tile cutter. A tile cutter is most effective if its design has an inclined bed. That is, ceramic material is brought under the cutter at an angle that can be adjusted using inclined stops. Making a cut with a grinder is very difficult. Here it is necessary steady hand and a keen eye. But even after this, you will have to work on the end with sandpaper, bringing it to maximum accuracy.

The process of gluing tiles with an undercut is no different from the standard operation. Glue is also applied onto which the tiles are installed. The main requirement is to accurately fit the tiles together so that they create a single whole covering covering the corner of the room.

Internal corners

Now, as for the internal corners. Everything is clear with trims; special profiles are used here. The joint can also be made with a 45° cut. True, you will have to prune in reverse side, that is, with outside to the reverse. It’s very important not to spoil it front side cladding, which may make it impossible to install tiles.

Eat old way, which masters have always used. To do this, the tiles were joined together so that one of them went under the end of the other. It was not always beautiful, especially if the quality and size of the cladding itself left much to be desired. Therefore, such a connection had to be sealed with grout or sealed using various types of materials.

Attention! If tiles are joined at the corner between the wall and the floor, then the overlay of one element on another will depend on the purpose of the room itself. So in the bathroom there is a floor ceramic tile should go behind the wall. This is done with one sole purpose - to prevent condensation that flows down the walls from penetrating under the floor elements.

All of the above options for joining tiles together do not always mean the quality of the final result. Especially if a beginner is doing the finishing. Therefore, there are various materials that can be used to hide cladding defects. And then the question arises, what is the best way to seal the joint? Basically, standard options two: grout and decorative profile. The second one is better because it completely hides the corner, and therefore the defects. At the same time, it is installed on the finished cladding, gluing or liquid nails, or sealant (preferably silicone).

We must pay tribute to the manufacturers who are trying to find ways to protect the junction of the tiles and the bathtub from leaks. In fact, this is the most dangerous area for water to penetrate under a plumbing fixture, where it will collect and become a source of mold and mildew. And it will be difficult to get rid of them.

Options to close this joint.

• If the wall under the bathroom is lined in the same way as the rest of the surface, that is, the device will be pressed against the lining, then it is best to install a special border (plinth) made of plastic or ceramic at the joint. In this case, the joint must be processed before installing the curb. silicone sealant. A plastic border is planted on it. Ceramic is usually laid on adhesive composition, which glued the tiles to the wall.
• You can also seal the joint with a sealant if the gap is not very large, no more than 1 cm. If this value is 1-3 cm, then the gap will first have to be filled with polyurethane foam.

Attention! For these purposes it is better to use the so-called sanitary sealant. Colonies of microorganisms (mold and fungi) will not form on it.

It should be noted that the sealant is very sensitive to unclean surfaces and does not adhere well to them. Therefore, before applying it, the surface of the tile and bathtub must be cleaned. detergent, and then degrease with solvent or alcohol. At the same time, so that the sealant itself does not leave its mark on the ceramic surfaces, which cannot be removed by anything, it is recommended to glue adhesive tape to the joint, the middle of which must be cut along the joint. And this is where the sealing material should be directed. After which the tape is removed, and the joint surface is smoothed with a brush dipped in a soap solution. A tiled joint sealed in this way is reliable in terms of complete tightness.

Every home craftsman who has started tiling for the first time knows how to join tiles in corners. And only with experience comes the understanding that in construction there are no perfectly right angles, and therefore laying tiles is not at all as simple as it might seem at first glance. Over the years comes true mastery, and it turns out that there are not one, not two, but many more ways to design both the outer and inner corners. And each of them has the right to exist, and can be the only true one in a certain situation.

First thing's first - layout!

And the cladding of any room begins with the layout, since in standard apartments Not only do there not exist perfectly right angles, but there are also no perfectly straight walls. The tiler carefully measures the room, assesses the condition of the walls and floors, and inspects the corners to choose a design method for each. It depends on which method of joining tiles in the outer and inner corners is chosen:

• choosing a tool to perform the work;
• the amount of tiles purchased in excess of the norm, in reserve;
• actually, the layout itself.

Basic layout rules

The layout begins with the surface that will be most noticeable. For example, for a bathroom - this is the wall located opposite front door. It is laid out first, and only then the walls adjacent to it. The temptation to start tiling from the corner is great, but if you succumb to it, it is almost guaranteed that cracks will appear in the corners and under the ceiling, sometimes several centimeters wide, which will have to be laid out with tiny scraps. As a result, the deviation of the wall from the vertical will be very noticeable, and the customer will have an extremely negative impression of the work of the master. Therefore, when making a layout, you need to adhere to certain rules:

How to join tiles in inner corners

There are very few options for decorating an internal corner. You can do this in the following ways:

• using an overhead angle (trim)
• design of a regular seam without additional details.

Making a corner using a plastic profile

This option is used in internal vertical corners, as a rule, by novice craftsmen. With experience comes the understanding that a plastic part, which rarely matches perfectly in color, rather reduces the cost than decorates the interior. An exception to the rule is the use of trims at the junction of the floor and wall covering. Here, a corner is almost always appropriate and desirable. Do not like plastic corners in the bathroom and the housewife - because they quickly become dirty, but tiles are much more difficult to maintain.

Easy pairing of 2 rows of tiles

Joining the tiles yourself in the inner corner has clear advantages. Firstly, a corner designed in this way looks more organic, especially in small rooms. Secondly, this method does not require additional parts, which will further increase the cost of repairs.

Of course, the simple pairing method also has disadvantages. This is the professionalism of a master like necessary condition and a high probability of cracking along the seam due to the natural tendency of the tiles to both contract and expand. This problem especially often occurs when facing plasterboard structures, but on brick walls that's great rarity.

To prevent the formation of cracks, use:

• correct calculation of seam width;
• use of sanitary silicone in vertical internal corners.

Important! Decor internal corner without using an overhead corner and without finishing the seam is unacceptable! The result of this installation will be a black gap at the junction. The only way to correct the appearance is silicone. But it’s unlikely to be able to match it exactly to the grout.

How to join tiles in outer corners

There are many more ways to design an external corner. This:

• use of trims and ;
• technology for cutting tile ends at an angle of 45°;
• easy installation one row of tiles on the edge of another;
• forming a corner using grout.

Method 1. Using a trim corner to lay out external corners

Today stores offer a wide range corner profiles for laying tiles. They are made from plastic, aluminum and even brass and can be the most different colors and sizes. The size of the corner must be selected based on the thickness of the selected tile, which is usually 7, 9 or 11 mm.

Interestingly, in most European countries trims are used everywhere, due to the ease of the method of decorating corners. In Russia, the mass fashion for corners is slowly but surely declining for a number of reasons:

• the desire to be different from everyone else;
• the small size of most apartments, in which unnecessary details in the cladding split the room, visually making it even smaller;
• the fragility of plastic trims and their high tendency to become dirty;
• high cost metal corners;
• the emergence of new, more aesthetic methods of cladding external corners.

Installation of trim corner

Installation decorative corner This is done after one wall in the room has been completely lined. Then along the entire height of the corner using mounting gun Silicone sealant is applied. The flat side of the trim is applied to the already laid tile, while the groove of the part remains free to lie on the adjacent wall. Subsequently, the tiles are laid along this wall from bottom to top, and the master inserts the edge of the facing material into the groove of the corner. A day after finishing the work, the seams between the tiles and the trim are rubbed down. Installation is performed in the same way decorative element and in horizontal corners.

Method 2. Cutting the edge of the tile at an angle of 45°

If the question “How to connect tiles in the outer corners?” the master replies: “Of course, at an angle of 45°!” - in front of you is a real professional. Simply because this method is too difficult for beginners, because it requires experience, firmness of movement and a lot of time. In addition, it is impossible to do without good tool, namely angular grinder. It works using a diamond disc. If you need to cut double-fired tiles, it is better to use a tile cutter with a rotating frame.

The disadvantage of this design is the fragility of the resulting angle. You just have to hit the edge of the masonry well, and with a high probability the tile will break off. However, fans of the method are ready to put up with this, because no other method of designing a corner gives such a harmonious result: the beveled edges fit perfectly together and form a perfectly right angle with a thin, barely noticeable gap.

Method 3: Laying one row of tiles on the edge of another

This technique is good for beginners, because there is nothing complicated about it. At first facing material one wall is completely laid out, then another, the outer tiles of which simply overlap the edge of the tiles laid perpendicularly. Very often, this installation method is chosen for laying tiles with relief, because in most cases it is chosen, succumbing to the opinion that seams, joints and unevenness of the walls will not be so noticeable on the textured surface. This is true, just like the fact that the relief one is very difficult to join beautifully in the corners.

Another variation of the laying method is staggered: in the first row, tiles of one wall are placed on top, in the second - another, and so on. Very often this method is used when tiling rooms. The result is a deliberately careless masonry, most appropriate in country or loft style interiors.

Method 4: Forming a corner using grout

Its essence: laying tiles without trimming and without protrusion on the outer corner. The resulting gap is shaped into a semicircle using grout or other adhesives. It must be admitted that this technique is still unpopular, both among craftsmen and customers. Although it solves a common problem: eliminating fragility external corner and prevent seam cracking, which is especially common on plasterboard walls. Therefore, any master tiler should know how to close the joints in the corners with grout.

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How to join tiles in corners

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Today laminate is the most relevant and in demand floor covering, which is used in almost all rooms and spaces.

However, using it in rooms such as a hallway or kitchen is not entirely practical or advisable. For such rooms the best option there will be ceramic tiles. However, laminate flooring in the kitchen can be used in the dining area, and the rest of the room is tiled. And here the question arises: how to close the joint between the tiles and the laminate (see video below)?

In order for the joint to look neat and beautiful, it must be properly hidden. Keep in mind that the tiles differ in thickness. Therefore, they need to be laid out at the same level to achieve a smooth transition. Do not forget to leave a distance of 0.5 cm between the laminate and the tiles so that the wood can expand or contract from different temperatures and humidity without being damaged or swelling.

Threshold installation

A convenient and most popular way to seal the joint between tiles and laminate is to install thresholds. Using the same technology you can close any joints flooring materials eg: between tile and tile. Today you are offered a huge selection of thresholds. They vary in material: plastic thresholds, wooden thresholds, metal thresholds or aluminum, etc. There are different types and flowers. Let's take a closer look at the most popular ones.

Wooden thresholds

Wooden thresholds are the most popular, as well as environmentally friendly and the most beautiful. They fit perfectly with laminate flooring. This can be seen even from the photo. However, with all this, they are inferior in flexibility to plastic thresholds. And therefore they are not used for wavy joints. I would also like to note that wooden thresholds are difficult to use and require special care.

Plastic sill

For a wavy joint, a plastic threshold is perfect. They are relatively new on the market, but quickly became popular and in demand. The thresholds bend well, taking the desired shape and protecting the joint from dust and dirt.

Metal threshold

If you want to use a more durable material for the threshold, then choose metal. Metal thresholds are perfect for any interior, as you can choose the desired color of the material from the variety available on the market. The metal threshold can be chosen to match the color of the laminate or tile, and you can also consider the color of any interior elements and thereby emphasize the design. If the situation arises that the laminate and tiles lie at different levels, then in this case you can use a multi-level metal threshold that will help smooth out the difference.

Aluminum and rubber thresholds

Aluminum thresholds are used mainly for smooth joints. And for wavy joints they are better suited rubber thresholds. will not be difficult. This work can be done with your own hands and in just a few minutes. Just remember to leave 0.5 cm between materials. To secure the threshold, you need to make holes in the tie for screws in advance. As a rule, they are sold complete with a threshold. It is enough to screw the threshold with screws so that it is motionless.

Fastening the thresholds

It happens that the kit does not include screws. In this case, the threshold between the tile and the laminate can be secured in a different way. Immediately fill the gap with silicone sealant to prevent dust and moisture from getting into the gap. To fasten the thresholds, you can use fastening strips, which are screwed with self-tapping screws to the screed. It is on the mounting rails that the threshold for laminate and tiles is then attached. As an alternative, you can use liquid nails.

Flexible threshold or molding

For covering wavy joints various materials You can also use a flexible threshold. It is installed on a plastic profile with bulges, with which it is attached above the floor covering. Additional fixation with screws will be required. To make the molding more flexible, before installing it it is worth lowering the threshold into warm water for about 20-30 minutes.

Why use thresholds and moldings

A threshold or molding is needed to close the joint between the tile and the laminate and give it an attractive appearance. The thresholds also prevent the entry of dust and moisture, which will protect your laminate from the inside. The thresholds also hide the contraction and expansion of the laminate. It also allows you to zone the space.

How to seal or close a joint

Regardless of what kind of ceiling is installed in the apartment - suspended ceiling, plasterboard, whether it is covered with tiles or wallpaper, or simply painted, in order for it to look complete, it is necessary to carry out finishing touch- make a joint.

The gap where the ceiling meets the wall looks untidy, and the structure itself looks unfinished. Therefore, it is necessary to choose a way to decorate this area so that it does not stand out from the overall composition.

Methods for designing a joint

Having perfectly smooth surfaces of the walls and ceiling, additional joint design may not be required if it is not required style decision rooms when molding is simply necessary to maintain a special atmosphere. If not, then the joint looks natural and smooth, forming a clear right angle without gaps.

Sometimes, with a perfectly even joining seam, in order to create an optical illusion and “raise” the ceiling, top part the walls are painted.

If there are even small gaps, the use of special masking devices will be required at the joint. The instructions for use usually consist of simple manipulations and do not require special skills and tools, so this work can be easily done with your own hands.

Masking tape for stretch ceilings

The joint between the wall and the ceiling made of tension fabric is masked using a PVC plug in the form of a special profile or insert (read more). The junction of several levels and the junction of the structure with the wall acquire a finished, neat appearance.

To do this, you will need to place a plug in the baguette slot, where, during the installation of the canvas, the and, or profile is inserted. When flooded from above, such an insert can be easily removed, the canvas is dismantled and the water is drained, and then the product is installed in place.

There are several types of plugs for suspended ceilings:

1. To accurately connect the tension fabric and slightly curved walls, an L-shaped wall elastic profile is installed in their direction;

1. To design the junction of the tension fabric with a tiled or porcelain stoneware wall, T-type plugs are used. In this case, the color of the product can be chosen to match the ceiling or in contrast;
2. If it is necessary to combine fabrics of different colors and textures, use a profile that differs from the shape of the baguette. In this case, the plug masking such a profile is secured in a different way than described earlier.

A wide decorative border is used to contrast colors, creating a clear, noticeable boundary between the ceiling and walls.

Black or white inserts are usually used. White canvas is the most common due to the fact that its price is lower and its universal White color allows you to visually increase the height of the room.

Using a white edging, the gap between the light-colored canvas and the same wall is masked. And with the help of black, the border between two planes will be emphasized. You can choose a colored plug to match the ceiling or wall.

Thanks to the fact that PVC manufacturing tapes are placed in reels of 100 meters or more; products of the required length can be purchased in the store.

Fabric cord

The use of thick fabric twisted cord is alternative solution when the question arises of how to arrange the gap between tension fabric and a wall. The product is pressed into the baguette slot.

With this decorative element you can emphasize the transition between the ceiling and the wall, drawing attention to the structure thanks to the expressive appearance of the cord. It looks especially impressive in combination with satin and fabric fabrics.

Important! It is necessary to ensure tight contact of the cord with the wall and edge stretch ceiling. If necessary, it can be “seated” on the sealant, but this will create difficulties if you need to temporarily remove the product.

One of the advantages of edging cord is its flexibility, which allows you to design curved elements suspended structure. And a wide choice color solutions and textures allows you to choose the design for any interior. Such a cord will look especially organic against the background of fabric wallpaper.

Fabric cords can be plain or multi-colored, consisting of several shades with embossed braiding. They may have metal threads or rubber veins as decorative inserts.

You can choose products with a pattern required topics. For a rich classic interior, you can use lurex cords - imitation of silver or gold threads.

Ceiling molding

You can give a finished look to the ceiling - suspended, made of plasterboard or simple, painted white - with the help of moldings, which have long become familiar. They may have different widths, material of manufacture, color and texture.

A wide range of ceiling decor products offered by manufacturers allows you to select elements for decoration in any interior.

The term “molding” means various elements stucco moldings for decorating ceilings and walls. For the overlay profile that decorates the joint, the name “ceiling molding”, “plinth” or “border” is used.

The material used to manufacture such products can be:

1. Wood;
2. Polyurethane;
3. Polystyrene;
4. Natural gypsum.

Wood moldings

With help you can give the room respectability. This finish is appropriate in classic interiors, as well as where wooden suspended or false ceilings are installed.

The price of such products depends on the type of wood that was used to make them. For mid-price segment skirting boards, spruce, poplar or alder are used. Expensive items include products made from oak, yew or mahogany.

The advantages of wooden skirting boards include the following:

1. Thanks to its natural origin, natural beauty and ideal environmental performance wooden skirting boards can be used in residential premises;
2. Natural wood can be treated with stain, varnish, enriching its natural pattern and shade, or painted in any color with paint;
3. If you paint the molding the same color as the walls, the ceiling will become visually higher and the room will acquire additional volume;
4. You can make the room more compact by painting the baseboard the same color as the ceiling.

Important! It takes special skills to install wood molding correctly.

Foam molding

Foam molding is the most budget option design of the joint between the wall and the ceiling. These products are easy to use, they weigh little and are easy to cut with ordinary scissors. But you should be careful not to accidentally damage the foam border, as it is quite fragile.

The disadvantage of this material, like the wood discussed above, is flammability.

Polystyrene molding

Manufactured by extrusion. Such products are distinguished by a clear relief and have a smooth matte surface. Such products are harder and more durable than their foam counterparts.

One of positive qualities This material is affordable.

The advantages of this material are that it does not contribute to the maintenance and spread of fire. Polystyrene is also easy to work with, it is easy to cut, but it is more resistant to mechanical stress.

Polyurethane molding

Polyurethane plinth is practical to use, it can be painted, and due to the presence of rubber in its composition, this material can bend without losing its integrity, which allows it to be used to design semicircular structures.

Such borders can have smooth, flat surface or patterned, with a clear pattern and maximum detailing of small elements.

Among the positive qualities of the material, the following can be noted:

1. Environmental friendliness;
2. The products do not have a specific odor;
3. The material is non-flammable;
4. The products are light in weight;
5. The material is easy to install;
6. Have a pre-primed white surface, which can be painted any color if desired. In this case, the paint is distributed evenly.

Plaster molding

Gypsum moldings, which are also used to decorate the ceiling where it meets the wall, can be considered an exclusive type of finishing.

Not only because all parts are manufactured manually and have a high cost, but also due to some unique properties gypsum:

1. Being natural material, gypsum and products made from it are 100% environmentally friendly. They do not release toxins and do not cause allergies;
2. Gypsum is an absolutely fireproof material;
3. Plaster does not conduct electricity;

1. Not afraid of temperature changes;
2. Gypsum is a hygroscopic material. From the air he takes excess moisture, and if there is a lack of it, it gives;
3. Each product is unique as it is created by hand. This allows us to produce moldings with the necessary, sometimes non-standard shape and width;

1. A drawing and relief created with one’s own hand can have precise rendering of voluminous small details;
2. With the help of gypsum cornices, you can successfully disguise not only the joint between the wall and the ceiling, but also advantageously design various kinds of technical holes, pipes, and electrical wiring;
3. The finish is monolithic and seamless.

Gypsum stucco molding can be painted, patinated, acquiring an aged appearance, and it can be coated with gold.

The video in this article will tell you how to design the joint between the ceiling and the wall.