Since ancient times, it has been the custom that the stove in the house served not only for heating. She could feed, provide hygiene, and put them to sleep. The stove is the warmest and most privileged place in the house; it is not for nothing that in all fairy tales old people and children sat on the stove - those who most needed comfort and warmth. Today, the functions of a traditional heater, Swede or Dutch oven are reduced mainly to heating and decorative functions, which does not prevent them from being used for preparing aromatic and healthy dishes from the arsenal of many world cuisines. This article will focus on brick ovens for the home.

Folding a stove is a whole science that was learned in more than one year of study. If you don’t know a qualified stove maker among your friends, but you really want to have a fireplace in your home, then you will have to take on the implementation of a bold idea yourself. Here's what you need to know before you get started.

Deciding on the design of a brick kiln

Depending on what hopes property owners have for their home, it is worth considering the options that best satisfy all desires. Don't forget about the dimensions various ovens and their weight. It is necessary to calculate not only your own strengths and means, but also the strength of the foundation.

Russian stove

• Suitable for lovers of tradition. This design performs the maximum number of functions, so it will take up a lot of space in the house. Traditionally it is placed in the corner closer to the door, but in modern interiors it can also be placed in the center of the room.
• The lounger is provided for relaxation; depending on the dimensions of the stove, it can have impressive dimensions. The crucible (or otherwise the firebox) is located directly below it. A continuous flow of air for better combustion of fuel is provided by the blower. The hearth and the bend are the compartments preceding the mouth of the furnace. Cooked food left in this zone is guaranteed to remain warm for a very long time. Substations and baking sheets were used to store kitchen utensils, grips, and pokers. Stoves are small-diameter recesses located along the side wall of the stove. They were used for drying small things, for example, mittens covered with snow dried out very quickly in them.
• Those who want to install a Russian stove in their house will have to provide space for it at least two meters high, one and a half meters wide and two and a half meters long. A design with such dimensions will easily ensure uniform heating of rooms of 30-40 m². But such a stove requires a lot of fuel. Those owners who cannot boast of significant room volumes or are not fans of traditional color should pay attention to another stove option.

Brick oven photo

Swede

• A model that is more compact than a Russian stove, designed for heating a room and cooking food, is the Swedish one.
• Her height requirements are the same - two meters. But the dimensions in length and width are reduced to one meter. The firebox provides enough heat to allow you to cook food simultaneously on two burners of a cast iron stove.
• There is also an oven, which housewives will appreciate. The Swede has a lot of modifications, they are named after the names of the developers (furnace designed by Potapov, Buslaev, Kuznetsov). Each one is slightly different in size, appearance, and heat dissipation, so choosing the appropriate option will not be difficult.

Brick oven video

Dutch

• It will only serve to heat the house. It, contrary to its name, has Russian roots, as it is an invention of domestic stove makers. Its main advantages are high heat transfer with compact dimensions. If there are no severe frosts outside, then the Dutch woman can keep warm for a day. Design features include a winding chimney and a low (compared to a Russian stove) firebox. Thanks to this, the Dutch oven warms up evenly from bottom to top.
• Its walls are thin - one, rarely two bricks; the base in the shape of a circle or rectangle fits on an area of ​​1 m². To heat a medium-sized room in a country house, this is more than enough. And in terms of weight it is noticeably lighter than its competitors, and in terms of fuel consumption it is the most economical. The design of the firebox is not complicated by the abundance of parts, but this only plays into the hands of increasing thermal conductivity. The silhouette of a Dutch stove is very attractive; to improve its appearance, it is often decorated with tiles.

Preparatory stage before making a brick oven

At the preparation stage, you need to worry about finding a brick wall design that is suitable in all respects, think about its location, take into account all the requirements for fire safety. You will need to select tools, purchase the necessary material and invite assistants.

The project diagram can be ordered from specialized agencies or trusted to resources on the Internet. For those interested, detailed courses are even filmed.

Tools you will need:

• mesh (sieve) for sifting sand, with a cell size not exceeding 2 mm;
• shovel;
• grinder (you will have to cut the brick);
• a pickaxe hammer will help chop solid bricks into small pieces and trim them to the desired shape and size;
• jointing for seams. This is a special tool that allows you to give the seams between bricks a neat and aesthetic appearance. If you plan to subsequently plaster the stove or cover it with decorative tiles, then you will not need to use this device. And when brickwork the master wants to leave it in its original form, then the jointing will ensure the same density and width of the seams;
• trowel (trowel) for applying the solution;

• mixer attachment for a hammer drill. The solution will be needed in large volumes, and such a mass can only be mixed evenly using a power tool;
• It is better to take a tape measure with a margin of length. Five meters will be more than enough;
• A plumb line will help control the verticality of the masonry in the corners;
• This rule is necessary to check the evenness of the masonry. A flat wooden strip more than a meter long will also work;
• using a building level, they check whether the masonry has “collapsed” relative to the horizontal;
• the work will be “dirty”, so cleaning equipment: buckets, rags, rags and mops must be kept at the ready. It is better to remove the solution before it dries.

The list of materials will not differ in variety (depending on the selected furnace configuration). Significant changes will only be in the number of bricks and additional accessories: cast iron stove, number of doors. Brick, sand and clay are the main expense items.

• Sand must meet the following characteristics: clean, fine, homogeneous. This result can be achieved by sifting.
• Clay can be skinny, normal or oily. The proportions of the working solution used depend on its type. Many experts advise choosing the “golden mean”, that is, clay of normal fat content.

Brick is available in four main types.

• Ceramic. This is a classic among materials for housing construction. Laying a foundation, erecting a load-bearing wall, building a country house - all this can be done from red brick. True, now it is produced not only in red and orange, but in almost any shade.
• Sand-lime brick has a different composition and color than ceramic. It is less moisture resistant, but dampens sounds well. But these characteristics are completely irrelevant for the construction of foundations, pipes and furnaces.
• Fireproof type of brick used in industries where constant heating to high temperatures- this is the norm. Metallurgists and glassblowers, for example, work with furnaces built specifically from this material. Its high thermal conductivity and ability to withstand extremely high temperatures make fireclay bricks the best for building a furnace. It is divided into four types:
  • carbon is rarely found on the market; it is intended for the use and construction of highly specialized production facilities;
  • lime-magnesia brick is used in metal smelting enterprises;
  • The quartz type, for all its fire resistance, is very unstable to the effects of alkalis or iron oxide. But it can be used for walls and vaults of furnaces;
  • alumina fireclay brick is the most common, but it will not withstand heating above 1300 ° C.

Fire bricks are more expensive than regular bricks. Russian manufacturers They offer this building material at prices lower than those of foreign competitors.

Facing brick, as the name implies, is used only for finishing. It is used quite often to improve the appearance of the stove. The variety of shades makes it possible to fit the stove into any interior.

Foundation for installing a brick kiln

• The stove foundation is formed (ideally) at the stage of laying the foundation for the house. They must be independent of each other. This requirement is explained by the difference in the level of natural shrinkage. It will occur in any case, and the loads on both bases and temperature effects will be different.

• The base should exceed the dimensions of the future structure by approximately 15 cm in each direction. Waterproofing is a mandatory requirement for the stove base.

How to lay a Russian brick oven

• What else needs to be considered before starting work? For a classic Russian stove you will need about 1,700 bricks, a view with a half-door that will regulate access to it, a valve (hole dimensions 26 × 24 cm), sand and clay in sufficient quantities. You will need to make about 80 buckets of solution.
• As for the layer of applied mixture, in this case the rule more is better does not apply. A masonry seam of moderate thickness will help the bricks to set faster and more firmly.
• According to the classic canons of laying out a stove, the arch of the firebox should be at an angle relative to the mouth. A protrusion in the form of a threshold cuts off sparks from the furnace against the pipes and traps soot.

• Procedures have been developed to help the master. Thanks to these cuts, you can clearly imagine how the laying of a particular row should be done. The top view allows you to understand when you need to use a whole brick, and where you need to beat off a half. The orders also indicate the installation locations of cast iron and other stove parts.

Brick kiln drawing

• The base of the stove must be covered with a layer of waterproofing material. Roofing felt or roofing felt are quite suitable. The first row will be laid out directly on it. Burnt (overheated) bricks at this stage of masonry will be more preferable, since they are not afraid of moisture.
• To ensure high-quality ligation of seams in the initial and subsequent rows, in the corners starting row lay three ¾ bricks. That is, from these incomplete bricks a triangle is formed: one in the center and one on the sides. They need to be made at a bevel to ensure maximum fit.
• Second row serves as a starting point for laying out the opechka.
• Since masonry involves installing bricks staggered, in order to avoid matching seams, third row will require four bricks in the corners with dimensions of ¾.
• When laying fourth row you will need to take whole bricks. The pair of bricks that are laid opposite each other to form the entrance to the oven should have beveled corners. This will create supports for the arch. To make the scaffold even, wooden formwork is built in its opening.

• When the arch is completed, you can return to installation fifth row. Three ¾ bricks are placed in the corners. The peculiarity of laying bricks in this row is that 20 of them (those that form the side walls) must be beaten with a hammer and a pick so that they form a support for the vaults of the oven.

• Sixth row provides for laying the side walls in one brick, and the back and front in two. It is important that the formwork be designed in such a way that after completion of the work it can be easily removed through the entrance to the oven. If you cannot give the bricks the desired shape, you should use ordinary ones and fill the voids with mortar and pieces of broken bricks. But ideal strength is ensured when laying a whole brick with carefully made bevels.
• Seventh row the technique of execution resembles the first one, for the eighth Solid brick is used. The eighth row involves arranging an area for a cold stove.
• Ninth row- like the first one, connected with the walls of the stove. Dry sand is placed in the spaces between the walls.
• Eleventh row must completely cover the sand backfill and the stove itself.
• Thirteenth row involves the start of work on laying the walls of the hearth and crucible. Between them there is a strip of metal, which in its shape exactly repeats the mouth of the furnace. You can fix it in the masonry as follows: the strip should have holes through which steel wire is passed.
• All other rows are performed with the aim of increasing the walls of the firebox and hearth up to up to the seventeenth row. It requires pre-chipped and hewn bricks in the amount of eight pieces to become a support for the arch of the firebox. The furnace itself is laid out in the same way as a stove.
• The completed crucible roof is a reason to start laying eighteenth row. A pair of heels - supports are fixed on the side of the pole window. The arch of which they are the beginning will be small. When laying out the next rows, do not forget that the free space must be filled with a mixture of well-dried sand, brick, crushed stone and broken glass.
• Twenty first row serves as a cover for the backfill and the furnace, and twenty second forms an additional overlap.
• Twenty-third row must strengthen the shield walls and over-pipe. The last element holds the air vent; it is needed to connect the samovar pipe to it if it is planned to be heated indoors. When subsequent rows are laid, another hole for the view is formed in the overtube. And the next two rows fix the half-door of the view.
• Laying technology thirty-first row requires that a gutter (an additional row of three bricks) be formed next to one of the walls. Next next You can completely block the overpipe. The only caveat is that there is supposed to be a hole in it on the right side that can be closed with a valve.
• From the thirty-fourth row you need to build up the walls of the chimney. Cutting is done almost right at the ceiling to loosen the bricks a little. This achieves two effects: decorative and practical. The last meaning is that the groove increases heat transfer and serves as a barrier separating the ceiling structures from the pipe itself.
• After the masonry has dried, proceed to final finishing brick oven, do a test heating (not at full strength) and enjoy the work done.

DIY Dutch brick oven

The Dutch oven is much simpler than the Russian one, but has its own nuances. The classic version looks like this:

• the design has rectangular shape(even if it is different, the configuration of the firebox will not change and remains rectangular);
• there is no grate;
• components of the structure:
• the firebox, which is located at the base in the lower half of the stove;
• a chimney consisting of an exhaust pipe with a six-channel passage of gases through the system: three downstream and three upstream channels;
• cleaning door;
• blower.

You will need to purchase:

• refractory bricks - 200 pcs;
• well-bending wire;
• a piece of roofing felt for waterproofing;
• crushed stone, clay, sand and cement;
• masonry adhesive;
• firebox door, blower, valve;
• standard set of level, tape measure, trowel, plumb line.

Dutch brick oven diagram

Stages of work

When the foundation for the stove dries, it is covered with roofing felt, which, in turn, is covered with a layer of clay mortar. Preparation: the clay is soaked in water for at least two days, after which it is taken in a volume of 8 liters, 0.9 kg of glue for laying stoves and two buckets of sand are added. The resulting consistency should resemble thick sour cream. You need to let the solution dry.

• First row spread on top of a layer of sand moistened with water. A sand cushion is poured over the entire surface of the foundation. Not forgetting about the dressing rules, two continuous rows are laid between the bricks.
• In the third row they begin to form the ash chamber, the door is installed later.

• Fourth row performed to increase the oven mass, the door is installed immediately. To secure it in the masonry, metal wire is used. If the first three rows of bricks were laid out flat, then in the fourth row they are placed on edge until the firebox door is closed.
• The ash pan is installed in the fifth row, and sixth row- simple increase in the height of the walls. When the lining of the ash pit door is finished, it is covered with the seventh row, and the bricks are again laid flat. Eighth row- increasing height.
• Some homeowners add a cooking surface to their Dutch oven. If this is provided for in the project, then ninth and tenth row move back. Along the top of the ninth row, an asbestos cord is laid around the perimeter, on which the cooking surface is installed. The tenth row involves the beginning of laying the base of the chimney. To make the structure lighter, a metal chimney is sometimes installed.
• IN eleventh row a valve is installed (using an asbestos cord), and the masonry is made in a quarter of a brick.
• IN fourteenth row The firebox is covered from above, and a hole is formed along the back wall to allow excess smoke to escape. Similar work is done in the next row.
• IN two rows, sixteenth and seventeenth form a cleaning door. You can simply leave the brick in its place without binding it with mortar.
• Eighteenth row- this is the basis of the chimney. When all the bricks in this row have taken their places, install the finished pipe or continue to form it through masonry.
• Experts advise soaking the brick in water for some time (until air bubbles stop actively entering the surface). It is believed that a wet brick will not absorb water from the mortar, it will set better, and in the future the seams will not collapse under the influence of heat.

• For maximum heat transfer, the walls are laid out in one brick. It is not recommended to heat a Dutch oven with types of fuel that burn quickly (brushwood, straw, dried reeds). The oven does not have time to warm up, and all efforts literally go down the drain.
• Fuel, which produces a lot of ash during combustion, will also not contribute to heating the room, but it produces a lot of soot in the chimney. This increases the risk of fire.
• The best option is a fuel that can smolder for a long time.
• On the issue of fire safety, it is worth adding that a Dutch oven should not be heated too hot. When overheated, it will release carbon monoxide. The degree of heating is checked by simply touching the palm of the hand to the masonry: if the hand tolerates heat, then the temperature is approximately 50 ° C. This is the norm.
• Anyone who is laying stoves for the first time should do a test laying using the “dry” method. That is, carry out all the work in stages, without fastening the bricks with mortar. This way you can get your teeth into it and at the same time decide whether you will need outside help.

Creating a stove with your own hands is not a type of activity that can be conquered the first time. Careful study of the diagrams, test masonry without using mortar, advice from experienced craftsmen will make the task easier. Labor and patience, according to the saying, greatly contribute to the positive outcome of any business.

At a time when a stationary solid fuel stove was the only existing means of heating a home, the profession of a stove maker enjoyed great popularity and respect. Today, to arrange individual heating, you can use many different units operating on a wide variety of fuels, but brick stoves still remain in demand.

Nowadays, finding a truly competent stove maker is not an easy task. And you don’t need to do this, because you can build a full-fledged stove with your own hands.

Before you start self-masonry ovens, familiarize yourself with the features of existing varieties of such units. The stoves are:

• heating. Designed exclusively for heating. Such ovens have extremely simple design and are laid out in the shortest possible time and with the least effort compared to other types of structures;
• heating and cooking systems. The most popular and sought after option. At the same time they heat the house and allow you to cook food;

There are also improved types of heating and cooking furnaces with built-in kitchen stove or even a full-fledged oven.

Fireplace stoves belong to a separate category. This is an excellent option for a modern private home. Such designs cope perfectly with the tasks of heating rooms and have an attractive appearance. A properly laid out and finished fireplace stove will be a worthy addition to the interior of a small country house, and an expensive private villa.

Scheme modern stoves They are distinguished not only by their purpose, but also by their shape. Most often, rectangular and square-shaped units are installed in private homes. But if you wish, you can lay out a round oven. Select a specific option taking into account the characteristics of the room and your own preferences.

Of course, you can lay out the oven yourself, and numerous diagrams will help you do this in the shortest possible time. However, when performing such work, remember that any stove, regardless of its purpose, shape and other characteristics, must fully comply with current fire safety standards.

Choosing a location and type of foundation for the stove

Before starting to lay the stove, pay due attention to finding a place to place it. For example, if the unit is placed in the middle of the room, it will be able to give off much more heat, warming up from all sides and evenly heating the air around.

If you place the stove against the wall (and this option is used most often), cold air will constantly “walk” near the floor. Therefore, you need to make your own decision in this regard.

Preliminarily determine the installation location of the combustion door. This element must be installed so that in the future you can load fuel into the stove as conveniently and quickly as possible, without spreading debris from firewood or coal throughout the house. Usually the fire door is located on the side of the kitchen or some little-frequented room.

The finished brick stove will have quite an impressive weight. In order for the device to stand as reliably and as long as possible, you need to prepare an individual concrete foundation for it.

Furnace design features

Traditional brick ovens have a fairly simple design. However, the apparent simplicity at first glance allows one to achieve very high levels of productivity and efficiency.

The main elements of the brick stove body are the firebox and chimney. Cooking stoves are additionally equipped with stoves and/or ovens; it is also possible to install a tank for heating water.

The firebox is the main part of the stove unit. It is into the firebox that firewood or other fuel used for heating is loaded. The firebox can have a wide variety of sizes. When determining suitable dimensions, several important factors need to be taken into account, such as:

• type of fuel used. If you will heat the stove with wood, make a firebox 50-100 cm high;
• required performance;
• required volume.

To arrange the firebox, use refractory bricks. The thickness of the walls of the structure in question cannot be less than half a brick.

The chimney is also one of the main elements of any heating stove. The chimney is designed to remove flue gases with various harmful inclusions formed during the operation of the stove.

At the chimney design stage, try to think through everything so that its design has a minimum number of bends and turns. Ideally, the chimney should be completely vertical. Any kind of bends will lead to deterioration of traction and a decrease in the efficiency of heating the room.

To the number important elements The design of a brick oven includes an ash pan chamber. Ash will collect in this compartment. Also, through the ash pan, air is supplied inside the unit to the fuel. The ash chamber is located under the grate and is equipped with its own door. Traditionally, the height of the ash pit is 3 bricks.

What mortar should I use for masonry?

Reliability and durability directly depend on the quality of the masonry mortar finished oven. The masonry will be carried out using a sand-clay based mortar.

There is nothing complicated in preparing the solution. Take clay, fill it with water and soak it. Sift the mixture through a sieve and then stir into “clay milk.” Finally, add some water to obtain a sufficiently viscous and plastic solution.

Remember, the reliability and strength of the stove directly depends on the correct preparation of the masonry mortar. If you do everything right, the stove will effectively heat your home for many years. Violate the technology or decide to save a lot on materials - the thermal unit is unlikely to be able to fully reveal its potential and stand for any length of time.

Main stages and important features of furnace laying

From the moment the foundation is poured to the start of construction, 3-4 weeks should pass. During this time, the base will gain the necessary strength and will be able to withstand the weight of the brick oven. The work in question requires maximum responsibility and concentration on the part of the performer. Any mistakes can lead to irreparable consequences, so get ready for the work in advance and allocate enough time to complete it.

The laying of the furnace is carried out in several stages.

First stage. Lay out the ash pan and the lower part of the first cap from brick. Carry out the laying using the previously discussed sand-clay mortar.

Second phase. Install the ash pan door into the masonry. Use galvanized wire to secure the door.

Third stage.

Fourth stage. Mount the firebox. Line the inside of this compartment with fire bricks. Place the bricks “on edge”. At this stage you need to use a special masonry mortar. It is prepared in the same way as the standard one, but instead of simple clay, refractory clay is used, i.e. fireclay. Secure the combustion chamber door using a steel plate and the wire you are already familiar with.

Fifth stage. Carry on standard masonry until you reach the 12th row. Having reached this row, close the combustion chamber and lay the tiles with burners evenly. This stove must be made of cast iron. Check the evenness of the installation using a building level.

Sixth stage. Lay out the first cap. It is erected at the left edge of the stove. At the same stage, a canal for the summer passage is being built.

Seventh stage. Install the stove and line the walls of the cooking compartment. Lay out the previously mentioned lower cap.

Eighth stage. Install the valve for the mentioned summer passage channel. This valve is located in inner corner cooking compartments.

Ninth stage. Lay the masonry up to the 20th row. When you reach this row, close the brewing compartment and the first hood. Be sure to leave the required number of holes in the solid masonry for the summer passage and lifting channel, as well as the vent for the cooking compartment. Place the bricks on steel corners - this will ensure higher strength and reliability of the stove.

Tenth stage. Close the portal of the brewing compartment with hinged fireplace doors. It is better if the doors have heat-resistant glass inserts. This solution will allow you to monitor the fuel combustion process and admire the flame.

Eleventh stage. Install cleaning doors for easy soot removal. For installation, choose a location that is easiest for you to get to.

Twelfth stage. Lay out the walls of the hood almost to the top edge of the wall opening. Cover the top of the stove with a couple of rows of bricks. Fill the gap between the top of the stove and the jumper with mineral wool. Thanks to this, additional thermal insulation will be provided and heating efficiency will be slightly increased.

Thirteenth stage. Place a decorative band around the upper perimeter of the unit.

Fourteenth stage. Proceed with the installation of the chimney. It is better if the chimney is made of brick. This design will last much longer than the same metal or asbestos pipes.

At the end, all you have to do is lay out the entire chimney and, if desired, finish the exterior of the stove. The simplest option is plastering. For the rest, be guided by your own preferences and available budget.

Thus, although laying the stove is not a simple task, it can be done with your own hands. It is enough to simply understand the technology and follow the instructions in everything. Remember, the materials for work must be of the highest quality. And stove designs that have been tested over the years will allow you to independently build a unit that will efficiently heat your home for many years without any problems or complaints.

Good luck!

Video - Do-it-yourself stove laying diagrams

In the last century, the Russian stove was multifunctional device. This is room heating winter time, at the same time, it is hot and healthy food, the ability to preserve crops through drying, and household amenities in the form of hot water. It cannot be said that a Russian brick stove is an ideal device. The disadvantage of a stove as a heating system is uneven heating. Modern stoves are designed to heat the room to its full height.

The Russian stove consists of the following parts and elements:

1. Opechek– used for storing and drying wood.
2. Cold stove- a small recess in which various utensils are stored.
3. Six- area on which you can place the pot.
4. Under- this is the floor of the cooking chamber. It has a slight slope towards the mouth, for convenient movement of heavy utensils. It needs to be polished well.
5. Cooking chamber- a place for laying firewood and cooking food. The roof of the furnace also has a slope.
6. Overpipe- camera above the pole. The chimney pipe is located higher.
7. Dushnik- a special hole for connecting the samovar pipe.
8. View- closing door.
9. Bed- horizontal surface, located behind the chimney. You can easily sleep on it in winter.

More common nowadays is the improved Russian stove.
It is distinguished by heating the underfloor part, due to which heating the room becomes more comfortable.

For laying the combustion chamber, fire-resistant bricks made of fireclay clay. The remaining part of the structure is made of ceramic bricks.

Almost every oven has metal or cast iron parts, for example, doors and dampers. They can also be prepared in specific quantities. You will need the following items:

1. Doors: furnace and blower, as well as a cleaning door, ventilation for chimney.
2. Grate;
3. Metal valves;
4. View;
5. Furnace damper;
6. Water box;
7. Plate;
8. Steel strips.

To lay out certain parts - arches and vaults - you need easily disassembled templates. They are made from wooden and plywood elements and parts.

Preparation of masonry mortar

Masonry mortar, unlike ordinary mortar, is much more difficult to prepare for furnace work. You can also buy a ready-made mixture in the store. But, if you decide to build a Russian stove with your own hands, then you can prepare the solution yourself.

Solutions for laying stoves are selected depending on:

• If solid brick grade M150 is used for masonry, then use clay-sand mortar. It is also used for lining the stove with special ceramic tiles;
• Used for laying refractory bricks based on special refractory clay with the addition of sand;
• When using fireclay bricks, use refractory clay mortars;
• In the gap between the attic space, brick pipes are laid using cement-sand mortar;

Typically the furnace is located against an internal wall that has a shallow foundation. To ensure independence of the foundations, it is necessary to leave a gap of about 5 cm between them, and pour sand into it. And the upper edge of the foundation should not reach the floor level by 14 cm.

If the oven is placed at outer wall, on a recessed strip foundation, then it will be necessary to expand the pit and make sand and gravel backfill with careful compaction. Next, the stove is installed with a certain gap from the base of the house, the so-called offset. Sand is poured into it, and its end walls are formed with brickwork.

If you decide to install the stove in the opening, then you just need to connect the ends of the lower crown. This can be done using strips of steel, which are placed on the logs on both sides and tightened with special bolts. Next, the opening is framed with special wooden posts. There must be a circulation gap between them and the future furnace, also called cutting. There should be a gap under the wall in the foundation of the house that will be equal to the width of the stove base on each side.

Laying a Russian stove with your own hands - ordering

The main requirement for laying a furnace is tightness. That is why only whole bricks without any cracks are used for the stove, and the seams are made thin - no more than 5 mm. You should not achieve airtightness by coating all the walls of the oven with clay from the inside - this will reduce thermal conductivity and increase deposits of soot and soot. In addition, the clay flakes off and clogs the channels inside the oven, which will be quite problematic to clean. Today the following methods are used:

• brickwork- with this method the wall thickness will be equal to the length of the brick;
• half-brick masonry- here the brick will be laid flat along the wall;
• quarter masonry- i.e. the brick will be laid on edge.

The ligation of the seams will be carried out thanks to the use of alternately bonded and spoon masonry or non-full-size building material in the corners.

If ceramic bricks are used, they must be pre-soaked, as they will “pull” all the moisture out of the mortar.

During the installation process, be sure to remove excess mixture, and especially on internal sides ovens. Lay the outer walls of the oven “in brick”, and the inner walls “in half a brick”. Laying rows is the order of masonry actions in each subsequent row. Due to this process Anyone can build a Russian stove.

First row They are laid from burnt bricks; they absorb little moisture. For the first row, the corners are laid out from cut bricks.

Second row begins with the laying of the furnace walls, the clearings are laid in front and on the left side. As a rule, an ash pan is formed on the front part on the right side of the furnace.

IN third row Cleanings on the left are laid without solution. Blower and cleaning doors are installed on the front side. The doors are mounted using burnt steel wire, it is installed in the cuts in the bricks and secured with masonry mortar.

IN fourth row the bottom channels are blocked.

On fifth row install the grate of the small firebox. To install the inside of the firebox, refractory bricks are used; they are also laid without the use of mortar.

IN seventh row The firebox grate is being installed, the walls and the first firebox are being installed. The right wall needs to be strengthened with a steel strip.

IN eighth and ninth row Laying of walls and internal channels continues. The firebox doors of the stove and small firebox are installed.

IN tenth row the arches of the first and second firebox will be connected. Cover the bottom of the furnace. And the smoke circulation channels lead into the furnace.

IN next row A steel corner is mounted on the front edge of the masonry, and a slab is installed on top. The space of the right firebox is covered with a special removable grate.

IN twelfth row laying of the front walls of the furnace and the side walls of the slab begins using refractory bricks. The furnace damper is installed. To the left of the stove they begin to form the lower part of the chimney.

WITH 13 to 16th row The laying of the furnace walls continues and the mouth of the furnace is blocked.

IN seventeenth row a certain narrowing of the furnace roof and expansion of the main chimney begins. A back wall The furnace is strengthened with a steel tie.

IN 18th row the roof of the furnace will be covered, and the laying of the front wall of the furnace will begin, which will form the overtube.

IN 19th row The front wall of the furnace is strengthened with the help of a screed; the walls are being installed above the furnace, forming a certain space for backfilling.

IN 21st row the stove is closed, and the overpipe will gradually narrow towards the chimney.

Figure 1 – Stove with fireplace and stove

The stove is a very popular heating option for private homes. Of course, there are now many variety of options heating, but still the stove remains a very popular option for heating a house and its individual rooms. In addition, you can cook food on the stove, use it as a drying rack, a steam room in a bathhouse, make a sun lounger and sleep on it. In addition, you can come up with a number of other applications and bring them to life.

What are the advantages of brick stoves?

It has a number of positive aspects and in many situations outperforms its competitors. Here are the main advantages of this option:

1. This heating option is environmentally friendly: when laying the stove, only building materials of natural origin are used; when heated, they do not emit any harmful substances and carcinogens.
2. After firing, the stove retains heat for a long time.
3. It can be harmoniously integrated into the interior of the room.
4. It is a multifunctional product - in addition to heating rooms, you can cook food on it, use it as a dryer, and the healing properties of therapeutic sleep on a stove are generally known.

What should you pay attention to when choosing oven parameters and its location?

The oven is multifunctional element, with its help you can maintain comfort in the room, cook food, heat, dry, etc. Therefore, the choice of stove dimensions and its placement in the house must be approached as seriously and responsibly as possible. The larger the oven, the more heat it will produce, and the longer it will take to cool down after firing is completed. If the house has several separate rooms located opposite each other, then it is advisable to position the stove in such a way that its sides, which give off the maximum amount of heat, face the sides of these rooms. It's no secret that the sides of the stove emit 3-4 times more heat than the front and back sides. This must be taken into account when designing the location of the stove in the room.

What kind of brick should be used to build a stove?

Different parts of the furnace are lined with different bricks, depending on the temperatures that will affect it:
1. The lower rows of the stove, which will not be exposed to high temperatures, as well as parts of the chimney, the smoke temperature in which will not exceed 80 degrees, can be laid out from building red brick.

2. Red stove ceramic brick. It has best characteristics. Kiln bricks can withstand high temperatures up to 800 degrees without destruction. This brick is used to lay out the furnace part.
3. Fireclay brick. The inside of the combustion chamber is lined with this brick. It can withstand temperatures up to 1600 degrees. It has high heat capacity and thermal conductivity.

You cannot lay out the firebox only with fireclay bricks. It heats up very quickly and cools down just as quickly. In order for the stove to give off heat for a long time, the outer layer of the combustion chamber must be lined with stove bricks.

What mortar is needed to hold the brick together?

Different parts of the oven are lined with different types of bricks. The solution in different parts will also be different:

1. Cement-sand. The parts of the furnace that are lined with ordinary red brick are placed on ordinary mortar.
2. Mortar based on M400 cement. A solution based on this brand of cement and high-quality mountain sand is used in the construction of those parts of the furnace where the temperature will not exceed 250 degrees.
3. Clay solution. Also mixed with mountain sand. However, expensive mountain sand can be replaced with sand from ground oven or fireclay bricks.
   A very important component of the solution is clay. It is best to use red stove. When frozen, it should not crumble or crumble.
   The solution should be of medium thickness - like thick sour cream in consistency. The layer thickness should be minimal - no more than 5 mm. This is necessary so that the precious heat from the stove does not leave too quickly.

How to fold a stove with your own hands?

To carry out this work, it is best, of course, to resort to the services of a qualified professional - a stove maker, but this is not a panacea. The work can also be done on your own. You just need to stock up on knowledge and boldly get to work.
Laying can be divided into stages. We offer step-by-step instructions.

Stage 1 – Choosing a location for the stove

The first step is to choose a place where it will stand. This should be a place closer to the center of the room, so that when the stove heats up, it evenly gives off its heat even to the most remote corners of the room. The location of the stove should be such that it does not interfere with the passage or block the light. There should be no furniture or flammable utensils near the stove that could ignite when the stove gets too hot and cause a fire. Also, the place where it is installed should be such that it is convenient to work near it: laying firewood, taking out and throwing away ashes, working on the stove, etc. There should also be a place next to the stove to store a small armful of firewood so that you can add a couple of logs to the fire at any time.

Stage 2 – Selecting oven dimensions

Everything is simple here: the larger the stove, the more heat it will give off, the longer it will cool down and give off heat to the room over a longer period of time. However, such a stove takes longer to heat up and requires more firewood for combustion.
It is faster to drown a small one, but there will be less heat from it and it will drain faster.

Stage 3 – Selection of bricks and their quantity

Next, you need to select the brick from which the stove will be laid out. It's best to take red. The number of bricks is determined by multiplying the number of bricks in a row by the number of rows. You also need to take into account possible errors and additional branches during laying.

Stage 4 – Site Preparation

If the stove is massive and heavy, then it is advisable to do separate foundation under it. If not, then you need to prepare a flat, clean surface and cover it with roofing material. If necessary, you can make formwork from boards. The first row sets the tone for all future work, so everything must be done conscientiously.

Stage 5 – Laying the first row – the flood part

The first row is the base of the future structure. Therefore, it must be approached very responsibly. We arm ourselves with a level and, if necessary, make formwork. It is best to first lay out the first row without mortar and see what happens, and then fasten the bricks with mortar.

Stage 6 – Installation of the blower

After laying two rows, you need to install a blower door and make a cavity into which the ash from the combustion chamber will be poured. To fasten the door, tempered wire is fixed at one end into special holes in the door, the other end is fixed between the bricks in the mortar.

Stage 7 – Laying out the fire part

The fire chamber is made of heat-resistant stove and fireclay bricks. You also need to install grates through which the ashes will pour down.

Step 8 – Installing the combustion chamber door

An important stage of construction work. Installed in a similar way to the blower door. The firebox door must be secured as securely as possible, because it will open and close for years to come.

Stage 9 – Laying the rows of the combustion section

Stage 10 – Installation of the slab

The stove must be laid evenly, all seams and joints must be very well coated with the solution and be sealed so that when the stove burns, smoke does not flow through the cracks into the room, and the flames do not fall on the hob.

Stage 11 – Laying the chimney

The various parts of the chimney that will be affected by different temperatures are laid out again different types bricks In the process of laying the chimney, you must not forget about the chimney view and damper. The view is installed by analogy with the blower door. A narrow slot in the chimney must be provided for the valve.

When the stove is burning, the valve is pulled out and allows smoke to escape through the chimney to the street; when it is not in use or heating is completed, the valve is in the retracted position.

Stage 12 – Exiting the chimney through the roof

One of the most difficult and responsible stages. The pipe through which smoke will be removed outside the house can be of the following types:

1. Asbestos cement is one of the cheapest and most affordable options.
2. Metal.
3. Stainless steel.
4. Brick. The laying of the stove continues after the chimney, which smoothly turns into a pipe and exits above the roof.
5. Ceramic pipe is an expensive option.
6. Vermiculite pipe is a new modern solution.

Necessary tools, materials and equipment for work

To complete the work you will need the following tool:

1. Master OK.
2. Pick.
3. Building level.
4. Shovel
5. Plumb.
6. Putty knife.
7. Roulette.
8. Pliers.
9. Bulgarian.
10. Sieve.

Figure 11 – Tools required for construction work
You will also need the following materials and equipment:

1. Brick (kiln, construction, fireclay).
2. Boards for formwork.
3. Ruberoid.
4. Chimney damper.
5. Chimney view.
6. Form for mixing the solution.
7. Blower door.
8. Furnace door.
9. Cement.
10. Mountain sand.
11. Red clay.
12. Water.

Conclusion

Installing a stove in your private home is a very big and responsible job. First you need to develop a project, choose a location, make sure the foundation is reliable, or make a new foundation for the stove. It is necessary to choose the correct dimensions of the stove based on the size of the room and the purpose of the stove, and correctly position it in the house relative to the rooms. To install the stove you need to prepare different types bricks, mix a high-quality mortar. After completing all the work, you need to heat the stove and see how it works, whether the stove, valve, doors are working properly, whether the structure is hermetically sealed, etc. If minor defects are found, they will need to be eliminated as soon as the firing is completed and the stove has cooled down.

Stove heating country houses Today he is gaining a second youth. And this is not surprising, given the special atmosphere and homely warmth that a simple brick stove, even made by your own hands, can create. It is often installed even in the presence of more technologically advanced heating systems, in an attempt to obtain a stylish, original element of the interior. Today we will talk about the most popular models of brick stoves and share the secrets of the stove craft.

Features and secrets of the popularity of brick ovens

A brick stove is not only a functional heating device, but also a stylish element of the interior.

There is probably no such person who would not like a live fireplace with crackling firewood and especially comfortable warmth. But a good old brick oven can please you not only with this, but also with its ability to create the most conducive to health atmosphere. It's all about the material from which this amazing unit is built. Being the closest relative of ceramics, brick releases water vapor into the air when heated, and absorbs it back when cooled. The stove seems to “breathe”, thanks to which it is installed in the room optimal humidity. It is also important that the heat becomes narrower at a temperature of 18–19 °C, whereas when using other types of heating, the comfort level starts from 20–21 °C. In addition, being made from clay, brick is an environmentally friendly material, which means that when operating a heating device you do not have to worry about the release of compounds harmful to health.

Despite the fact that each type of brick heat generators has its own functional and design features, they are all similar to each other in terms of the arrangement of the combustion and heat exchange parts. So, any stationary oven of this type has:

• a foundation that serves as the base of the heating device and evenly distributes its weight over the entire area;
• a firebox that simultaneously serves as a firebox and combustion chamber;
• a grate that allows for lower air supply to the combustion zone. Due to this, the performance of the heating unit increases and it becomes possible to regulate the intensity of fuel combustion;
• ash chamber, which makes cleaning the oven easier;
• a chimney that creates the necessary draft and releases exhaust gases into the atmosphere.

Design of a channel-type brick kiln

In addition to their main purpose, wood heat generators are also used for cooking, as well as arranging an additional resting place. The structure itself can be installed both indoors and in the yard, for example, in a recreation area with a barbecue, grill or cauldron. If we talk about fireplace stoves, then their heat-generating function is completely relegated to the background, giving way to the visual and image component.

The advantages of brick kilns include:

• fast surface heating;
• possibility of using several types of fuel;
• low operating costs;
• eliminates the risk of burns when touching the walls of the heating device;
• especially soft, comfortable warmth;
• the air in the room is not dehydrated;
• wide possibilities in terms of interior decoration.

The units in question also have disadvantages. The most significant of them is the potential danger of poisoning carbon monoxide which appears when used incorrectly. Another one is large dimensions and weight. That's probably all. As you can see, equipment of this type has continuous advantages and an almost complete absence of negative aspects, which, incidentally, determines its high popularity.

Classification of heating devices. Criteria for choosing the optimal design

All existing models of brick kilns can be divided into several types:

• heating devices;
• cooking units;
• combination ovens;

Having decided on the required functionality, you need to choose the option that can be folded yourself. In order not to consider the entire variety of stationary units, we will focus on the most popular options:

1. Dutch ovens. Thanks to the channel design, they have good heat dissipation and take up little space. Such heat generators operate in slow combustion or smoldering mode, which significantly reduces the requirements for the quality of building materials. And although the efficiency of the “Dutch” ones rarely exceeds 40%, they have found many fans, partly due to their low cost and ease of construction.

   

   The classic “Dutch” is an extremely compact structure

2. Swedish wood stoves have a chamber-channel arrangement, which allows increasing efficiency to 50%. Just like the “Dutch” ones, the “Swedish” ones take up little space, but require a more careful approach when choosing materials and are a little more difficult to manufacture. Nevertheless, the labor and financial costs are fully justified by the increased productivity and expanded functionality of heat generators of this type.

   

   The Swedish stove will delight its owner with high efficiency and functionality

3. have a unique layout, thanks to which they carry an indescribable flavor and originality. Their efficiency exceeds 60%, but not everyone will like the operating features. In addition, not every beginner will be able to fold the stove. Most likely, you will have to hire a professional stove-maker, and this will entail additional costs that will increase the cost of an already not the cheapest design.

   

   A Russian stove can completely transform the interior, but will require a lot of space for installation

4. Kuznetsov bell furnaces, famous for their thermal efficiency, have an efficiency of up to 90%. The secret of their success lies in a special device that promotes the most complete combustion of fuel and maximum heat transfer. A special feature of “blacksmiths” is their extremely clean exhaust and the absence of soot, which minimizes the time spent on maintaining the heating device. As for the disadvantages, these include the complexity of the design and high requirements for materials. However, the last drawback is compensated by the fact that the construction of a “hood” will require significantly less bricks than for any other furnace.

   

   Unlike canonical bell-type stoves, modified units can have a hob and an oven

You will find step-by-step instructions for laying a Kuznetsov stove with orders in our next article:.

Having considered everything possible options, we have come to the most crucial moment - the choice of a heating device that can satisfy all the requirements placed on it. The main criteria in this case are functionality and installation location. And if the first does not present any difficulties, since it completely depends on the preferences and requirements of the owner, then the second point requires the closest attention. We will tell you in more detail how to choose a stove according to the type of structure.

1. A house designed for permanent residence. If stove heating will be used as the main one, then a better option than “Swedish” or “cap” cannot be found. In addition to the fact that these units have excellent performance and do not take up much space, they are also easily complemented by other elements - a hob, water circuit, oven, drying niches or a stove bench. If functionality is relegated to the background, and the main requirement is compactness, then a good option is a “Dutch oven” that heats several adjacent rooms.
2. Country house "weekend" or dacha. Since these buildings require irregular residence, it will be enough to install a small heating device, equipped with a hob. Ideal option are fireplace stoves with open hearth, since with their help you can heat the room in the shortest possible time. This advantage cannot be overestimated in winter, when the indoor temperature drops to sub-zero temperatures.
3. Oven in country house with water or other type of heating. In this case, the heating device serves to create a special atmosphere. If the space of the room allows, then you can install a full-fledged Russian stove or unit with a firebox, fireplace and stove bench.
4. Heating device for a bath. For this case, a simple stove-heater is suitable, into which a container is built in to produce hot water. If the bathhouse is attached to the house, then instead of a tank you can install a full-fledged boiler designed for a liquid heating system.
5. Stoves for open areas. Most often, such heating devices are installed on open verandas, in summer kitchens or gazebos and are used for cooking. For these purposes, the structure is additionally equipped with a hob, barbecue, barbecue, cauldron, etc.

A barbecue oven will decorate the area and fill the relaxation area with functionality.

Having decided on the type and filling of the furnace, do not rush to start construction. In order for the heating device to meet all expectations, it is necessary to thoroughly understand the principles of its operation.

Calculation of basic parameters

Before choosing a working design for a heating device, it is necessary to make a preliminary calculation according to the parameters of a particular room. The most accurate method is to determine the dimensions based on the heat output of the furnace. In order not to go into complex calculations, for well-insulated houses they use a simplified calculation scheme proposed by I.V. Kuznetsov. This method uses the average thermal power removed from one square meter of the surface of the unit (TMEP). For a conventional firebox, take the value 0.5 kW/sq. m, and if intensive heating is necessary, which occurs during severe cold weather - up to 0.76 kW/sq. m.

When determining the thermal power of a furnace, only those surfaces that participate in heat exchange processes are taken into account. For example, in “Dutch” systems, sections of walls located near the floor, below the horizontal sections of the gas duct, are not excluded from the calculations.

In principle, these values ​​are enough to select a suitable project from those that can be found in the public domain. If the available options are not suitable for any reason, then you will need to calculate the parameters of the main elements of the furnace and design your own design.

Drawings and diagrams of brick kilns

Bath stove
Stove-fireplace Classic "Dutch" Bell stove

Firebox

The dimensions of the firebox are determined based on the maximum volume of the fuel fill. In this case, the amount of combustible materials is calculated using their calorific value and specific gravity, focusing on the required power. The volume of the firebox should be 2–3 times larger than the obtained value, which will allow the stove to be reheated at extremely low temperatures.
When calculating the size of the combustion chamber, it is necessary to take into account that the maximum filling should not exceed 2/3 of the volume of the combustion chamber. In addition, the dimensions of the firebox and all its components must be adjusted to the size of the bricks used for laying the stove. In your calculations, you can use special tables designed taking into account the need to heat rooms of various sizes.

Calculation table for the main elements of a brick kiln

Ash pan

The height of the ash pan depends on the type of fuel used. For low-ash combustible materials such as coal or peat briquettes, this value is taken equal to 1/3 of the height of the firebox. If the stove is heated with wood or pellets, then the height of the ash chamber must be reduced to 1/5.

Chimney

When calculating the chimney, it should be taken into account that the place of its installation must comply with SNiP

Unlike gas heating equipment, wood stoves do not require much draft, so the best shape for the smoke channel would be a rectangle. When calculating the chimney, it is taken into account that the cross-section of the blower should not exceed the area of ​​its flue, and all values ​​are adjusted to the dimensions of a standard brick. Since accurate design requires operating with a lot of data and parameters, it is best to use one of the special programs. However, for the most common cases (no kinks in the smoke channel, vertical stroke, rectangular section, height from 4 to 12 m) you can use average values ​​for furnaces with a power of up to 14 kW:

• Less than 3.5 kW - 140x140 mm.
• 5 – 5.2 kW - 140x200 mm.
• From 5.2 to 7.2 kW - 140x270 mm.
• From 7.2 to 10.5 kW - 200x200 kW.
• 5 – 14 kW - 200x270 mm.

Recommended sizes are minimum. And yet there is no need to excessively increase the cross-section of the smoke channel, since cold air will descend into the stove through a chimney that is too wide. Counterflow, or “swish” in the language of professional stove-makers, threatens not only a deterioration in performance, but also more serious problems.

To calculate the quantity required material It is best to use special tables. Below is one of them.

Calculation of the number of bricks

You should not worry if the chimney calculated “offhand” occasionally starts to smoke. If necessary, it can be extended with a piece of asbestos-cement pipe 0.5–1 m long, or several more rows of bricks can be laid. Often such events are carried out when the aerodynamics of the terrain have changed. For example, after trees grow or taller buildings are erected in the neighborhood.

Preparatory activities

Preparation for construction includes several stages:

• selection of tools and necessary materials;
• definition optimal location for installation of a heating device;
• arrangement of the foundation and preparation of the construction site;
• making stove bricks (if necessary) and preparing masonry mortar.

Required materials and tools

Stovemaker tools

To lay a brick oven you will need:

1. Mason's hammer (with striker and pick).
2. Broom for mopping laid rows.
3. Angle, plumb and level for control geometric parameters masonry
4. Pliers.
5. Rubber hammer (mallet).
6. Trowel (trowel).
7. Rule and tamper for arranging the foundation.
8. Lead scriber.
9. Spatula or mixer for mixing the solution.
10. Joining.
11. Buckets and other containers for bulk substances and liquids.
12. Sieve.
13. Grinder (angle grinder) with a stone circle.

Despite the fact that brick kilns differ significantly in design and size, the list of materials that will be needed for construction remains virtually unchanged. The standard list of everything you need looks like this:

1. Brick - red, silicate, fireproof and facing (depending on the design of the solid fuel heat generator).
2. Construction mixture for laying stoves. If it is necessary to reduce the cost of construction, it can be replaced with clay and sand.
3. Furnace casting set - blower, combustion and cleaning doors, valves, stove, oven, etc.
4. Grate.
5. Wire for securing cast iron castings.
6. Asbestos or basalt cord.
7. Steel strips and angles for arranging ceilings and niches.
8. Heat-resistant boards for protective thermal insulation.

Fireclay brick ШБ №22

Any brick oven is a unit with an impressive weight that requires a solid foundation. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare materials for building the foundation:

1. Sand.
2. Crushed stone.
3. Reinforcement mesh.
4. Boards and nails for formwork construction.
5. Cement.
6. Waterproofing.

In addition, if the project provides for external wall decoration, then prepare the tools and materials that will be needed for this work.

Features of choosing a place to install a heating device

Most often, a brick oven is installed near one of the walls or in the corner of the room - this will make it possible to use the available space in the most rational way. If the unit is planned to be used for heating several rooms, then it is placed in the center of the house, with the firebox and hob oriented towards the kitchen, and the other edges towards the bedroom, hall or living room. The diagram clearly shows the benefits of choosing the right location.

The right choice of location can solve the problem of heating all rooms of a country house

When installing a heating device, you should not be guided by convenience alone. It is important not to forget about the minimum permissible distances to other surfaces, as well as the optimal gaps and distances that are determined by the current SNiP:

• from a brick chimney to wooden elements The ceiling or roof must have at least 130 mm of free space. If an uninsulated ceramic or steel pipe is used, the gap is increased to 250 mm;
• a gap of at least 100 mm is left between the wooden floor and the outer walls of the stove;
• the distance from the heated side surface of the heat generator to the combustible wall of the building depends on whether thermal insulation will be used. With protective screen minimum clearance is 130 mm, and without it - at least 380 mm;
• a gap of at least 0.35 m should be left from the ceiling to the stove ceiling. When installing compact units with low heat capacity, this distance can be increased to 0.7–1 m.

Construction of the foundation

It is best if the base of the brick kiln is formed simultaneously with the general building foundation. In this case, both structures are performed separately, otherwise subsidence of the building walls will inevitably lead to a violation of the geometry, or even damage to the heating device. If the furnace will be built in finished house, then the first thing people pay attention to is the distance of the chimney from the roof slab elements, which should be at least 15 cm. And only after that they begin marking and building the foundation.

Considering the weight of the stove, a solid foundation must be used.

If the house has wooden floors, then they are cut out at the place where the stove is installed, 10–15 cm away from the outer contour. After this, a pit is dug, the depth of which depends on the characteristics of the soil and the depth of its freezing. For middle zone It is enough to dig a hole 0.7–0.8 m deep. After this, its bottom is covered with a 15-centimeter layer of sand and compacted, periodically spilling water. Then a layer of crushed stone 10–15 cm thick is poured, which is also thoroughly compacted. After this, wooden pegs are driven into the corners of the structure, to which the sheathing boards are attached. To prevent laitance from leaking through the cracks of the mold, its walls are covered with plastic film. A reinforcing mesh is installed at a distance of 5–10 cm from the floor, for which both metal rods driven into the bottom of the pit and fragments of brick are used.

The foundation for a brick oven is made of reinforced concrete

By mixing M-400 cement, sand and crushed stone in a ratio of 1:3:4, concrete is prepared. Just enough water is added to obtain a solution of medium fluidity, otherwise the strength of the structure will be reduced. The mixture is poured into the formwork and compacted in any way, after which the surface of the foundation is leveled using the rule. Note that the upper level of the stove base should be 15–20 cm below the floor. After several hours necessary for the solution to pre-set, the structure is covered with film and left for several weeks until completely dry.

Before laying bricks, the foundation must be waterproofed using roofing material or a special film. If the width of the material is not enough, then its strips are laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm.

Preparation of the solution

Now that ready-made building mixtures for laying fireplaces and stoves can be found in the retail chain, there are practically no problems with preparing a working solution. All you need to do is mix the ingredients with water using a wooden spatula or a construction mixer. However, you can make masonry mortar yourself - this will allow you to save additional money. In addition, the owner will have complete confidence in the environmental friendliness of the structure.

Cook with your own hands mortar can be made from sand and clay, the ratio of which depends on the fat content of the latter component. To choose optimal composition, conduct a small experiment by mixing bulk materials V different proportions. After this, balls with a diameter of 5–6 cm are rolled from the solution, which, after preliminary drying, are squeezed between two planks. The best lineup is considered to be one in which the sample begins to crack no earlier than it is deformed by one third.

There are several ways to check the quality of clay

Another way to determine the correct ratio of components is to lower a spatula into the prepared mixture. The adhesion of the solution to less than 1 mm indicates its low plasticity - it is necessary to add clay. If the layer thickness is more than 2 mm, then this indicates that the mixture is greasy, which can be corrected by adding sand. The norm is from 1 to 2 mm.

The clay must be soaked in water for a day before use. If you want to increase its fat content, then use the extraction method, which consists of settling the clay solution and removing its middle part.

How to properly build a brick oven. Instructions for the progress of work

Decide on the type of heating device, make preliminary calculations and preparing everything to start construction is only half the battle. In order to correctly fold the stove, you need to find patterns for laying out the bricks in each row, the so-called orders. We have prepared several of the most popular options that can be used as working projects. If for some reason you are not satisfied with them, then you can look for ready-made solutions on the Internet or order an individual layout on one of the special sites.

Stove ordering diagrams in the photo

Orders of the Swedish stove Orders of the “Dutch” Orders of the Russian oven
Procedures for heating and cooking furnace
Orders of a stove for a bath
Orders of the Kuznetsov bell furnace

Today we propose to build a compact, but very productive and functional brick oven. Despite its apparent complexity, even a beginner can build it if he uses our instructions and follows all the recommendations. We, in turn, will share the secrets of experienced stove makers and give necessary recommendations during construction.

Arrangements of an oven with a hob and niches for drying

In the presented arrangement diagram you can see a heating unit equipped with a convenient hob and a drying niche, which gives a certain resemblance to a classic Swedish oven. We recommend that you first lay out the structure dry, without using mortar. This will allow you to study in detail the features of each row and prepare the necessary elements of the structure. Next, the work is done in this order:

1. Up to the floor level, the bricks are laid out completely on cement-sand mortar. At this stage, you should be especially attentive to geometric accuracy, controlling the masonry by level and plumb. How smooth and stable the oven will be depends on the careful execution of the work.
2. The first row of the furnace body begins to form the ash chamber.

   

   Installing a blower door

3. Before starting laying the second row, install the blower door. To do this, steel wire is threaded through specially cast ears on its body, which is laid in masonry joints. To prevent the door from moving and tipping over, it is temporarily supported with bricks.
4. In the fourth row, two channels are installed to clean the furnace from soot. Each of them has a separate door.

   

   The grate is not secured in any way other than by very precise placement

5. A grate is installed in the fifth row. The recesses made in the bricks of the bottom row will help to correctly lay the cast iron. Hereinafter, the combustion chamber is lined exclusively with refractory bricks.

   

   In the oven, the grate is laid on a refractory brick

6. Before laying the sixth row, a fire door is installed, which is temporarily fixed with a stack of bricks laid on the grate. If necessary, the part is supported from the outside with a metal corner or a wooden strip.

   

   Installation of the combustion door

7. Starting from the seventh row, the furnace flues begin to be equipped. Vertical walls The fireboxes are laid out with fireclay bricks installed on the edge.
   

   To ensure the durability of the structure, the outer masonry is separated from the combustion chamber by a layer of basalt cardboard.

   

   Laying vertical channels

8. Before starting the laying of the ninth row, a quarter is selected from the bricks that will cover the fire door. Thanks to this, the structure will look smooth and aesthetically pleasing. Here the cast iron part is finally fastened, laying the wire in the seam of the ninth row.

   

   To ensure an accurate fit of the brick to the door, its edges are cut in place

9. In the 11th row, a hob is placed on the upper opening of the fuel chamber. The same basalt cardboard or asbestos cord is used as a seal. The front part of the cooking niche is framed with a steel corner.

   

   The firebox is separated from external walls basalt cardboard or other fire-resistant material

10. From the 12th to the 16th row, a chamber is built over a cast-iron stove.
11. Before covering the cooking niche, steel strips are laid on its side walls, which will serve as support for the bricks of the 17th row. The front part of this row is decorated with a metal corner.
12. The 18th and 19th rows are laid out almost completely, only three vertical heat exchangers are built up.
13. In the 20th row, a horizontal channel and a door are installed to remove soot and deposits, and they also begin to form a drying chamber.
14. The door is covered with masonry of the 22nd row.
15. On the 23rd row, the horizontal flue is blocked. Only the openings of the vertical channels are left open.
16. Before laying the 24th row above drying chamber steel strips are laid.
17. From the 25th to the 28th row, another cleaning door is installed and the stove niche is blocked.
18. In the 30th row, valves are installed on the two remaining vertical flues. To do this, first install their frames, and then insert the partitions themselves.

    

    Installation of furnace valves

19. From the 31st to the 35th row, lay out the transition section of the chimney.
20. From the 36th to the 38th row a fluff is constructed.

In the place where chimney passes through the ceiling, it is isolated from the ceiling with non-combustible materials. For this purpose, both mineral insulation and expanded clay are used. It is poured into a box, which is knocked down around the chimney.

You can make this beauty with your own hands

Briefly about the installation of the oven and heat exchange register

Previously, we looked at how oven doors are mounted and secured. It is equally important to correctly install other functional elements.

Installation features oven

If the design of the oven provides for the installation of an oven, then it is installed so that the flow of heated gases washes as much as possible large area surfaces. Most often, these conditions correspond to the transition area from the furnace to the heat exchanger. First, metal corners are placed on the side walls of the horizontal flue, and the points of contact between the cabinet and the outer wall of the furnace are sealed using basalt cardboard or asbestos cord.

A water heating boiler or liquid heat exchange register is installed in the hottest zone of the furnace. Depending on the type of heat generator, this place may be in the rear of the combustion chamber, at the beginning of the flue, or under the hood of non-revolving units. If you plan to use the hob and water heater at the same time, then it top part They are made in the form of transversely arranged metal pipes, which are welded into side containers made of furnace steel. A compensation gap of 5–15 mm is left between the water heating boiler and the walls of the firebox. Of course, it is necessary to provide for how the surface of the heat exchanger will be cleaned of soot. For duct and chamber stoves this can be done through the firebox opening, while in other cases it may be necessary to install an additional cleaning door.

Features of operating and cleaning the oven

You cannot immediately test the oven at maximum settings; you must wait for its walls to dry. That is why it is recommended to build a heating device in the warm season. During this period, it is enough to open all the openings of the brick unit and wait one or two weeks. If there is a need to dry the stove in cold weather, then its doors are closed, and a fan heater or a powerful incandescent lamp is turned on in the combustion chamber.

After the specified period, the stove is heated for 5–7 days 2–3 times a day, each time using a small amount of firewood. ABOUT completely dry walls is evidenced by the absence of condensation on metal surfaces, which appears a few minutes after kindling. And even after this, the stove is not heated “to the fullest.” Operation at maximum power is checked only after several days of regular use.

If the unit is heated exclusively with wood, then it is not necessary to clean it from ash every time. In the case of using peat briquettes and coal, the furnace is cleared of ash and ash at the beginning of each new cycle. As for cleaning the internal channels and chimney from soot, this procedure is carried out at least once a season. For these purposes, various scrapers and brushes are used to remove carbon deposits from vertical surfaces. After this, the soot is scooped out of the flues with a metal scoop and poker.

The correct choice of fuel will help reduce soot formation. The best firewood hardwood is considered - oak, hornbeam, beech, etc. Birch firewood and aspen practically do not leave soot. By the way, experienced stove makers recommend using aspen logs for every tenth fire, claiming that this helps remove soot from the ducts and chimney.

It is not recommended to clean the stove by burning using flammable liquids, black powder (yes, you can find such “helpful” tips), naphthalene, etc. It is unlikely that a good effect can be achieved from this, but it will benefit nearby buildings and your own health. cause significant damage.

It is often difficult to light a stove after a long period of cooling, for example, in a cottage or country house. This is due to the fact that cold air descends into the furnace channels, forming gas plugs that are difficult to remove. A proven method will help you regain cravings. To do this, take dry paper or rags moistened with kerosene or barbecue liquid, place it close to the vertical flue and set it on fire. Intense combustion will instantly push out stagnant air masses and restore the functionality of the heating device.

You will also find the material with instructions for cleaning and minor repairs of brick stoves useful:.

Video: Compact brick oven of original design

A brick oven can create a particularly warm atmosphere in a room, becoming the highlight of the interior and a gathering place for friends and acquaintances. Not only experienced craftsmen, but also green beginners can fold the unit. Of course, you have to be scrupulous and as attentive as possible. And then the heating device will reward you not only with cozy warmth and comfort, but also with safe operation over many years of operation.

Thanks to my varied hobbies, I write on various topics, but my favorites are engineering, technology and construction. Perhaps because I know many nuances in these areas not only theoretically, as a result of studying at a technical university and graduate school, but also with practical side, because I try to do everything with my own hands.