IN modern world fortifications lost their functional necessity. The good old log fence has been replaced by cheaper alternatives. Practical landowners resort to cast concrete fences, slate, brick or even a metal roofing profile.
But can any of these materials compare with the aesthetics of a log fence? A horizontal palisade or vertically stacked tree trunks are almost the only option for owners of plots registered in ethnic style. In addition, the height and configuration of the fence depends only on your preferences. Let’s take a closer look at the most beautiful, reliable and durable option for constructing a fence for your own site.
Features of log fences
There are no perfect things in our world. So, a log fence has a lot of advantages, balanced by a number of disadvantages. First, let's look at strengths similar designs:
- Decorative properties . In the age of glass and concrete, expressive wood textures and warm natural colors cannot but inspire.
- Quick installation. At four strong hands Installing a fence made of logs is much faster than installing the same concrete fences. First of all, because there is no need to wait until the base of the supports hardens.
- Strength. Properly installed log structures excellent resistance to wind and other natural loads. It’s not for nothing that ancient kremlins were surrounded by palisades.
- Inaccessibility. Climbing over a palisade with pointed tops of logs is quite difficult. In addition, such a design is impenetrable to idle glances from the outside.
Such fences also have weaknesses:
- Difficulty of maintenance. tree without additional processing has a shorter service life than other building materials. That's why protective covering and the impregnation will have to be renewed periodically.
- Price. The high price of logs as a building material has influenced their displacement by more available materials.
- Flammability. Yes, it is difficult to overcome a high log fence, but ill-wishers can always set it on fire. In addition, this is an additional danger in case of accidental fires.
In general, the advantages of log fences fully balance out their disadvantages. Therefore, before you start installing such a fence, you should carefully weigh your own priorities and compare the design features with the operating conditions in order to avoid unpleasant surprises.
Log processing
Before construction begins, it is necessary to process the material to increase its resistance to various destructive factors. On the other hand, you can purchase material with all the necessary impregnations and coatings. A minimal log fence must be protected from insects and moisture.
Treating the part of the log immersed in the ground with hot bitumen or creosote will help prevent rotting. An alternative archaic option is charring using a fire or burner. For reliability, it is recommended to process the first 20 cm of the outer part of the log.
To increase the service life, it is better to impregnate the cylinders for the fence along the entire length with compounds that increase resistance to atmospheric phenomena and reduce the flammability of wood.
When constructing a palisade, each log is traditionally sharpened at an angle of 30 to 45 degrees. Any available ax will do the job. But this is more of a recommendation than a requirement. technical process. With the same success, you can not process the upper part of the fence in any way.
As additional protection And decorative element A small double-sided roofing slope is installed on the upper parts of the logs. In general, there are a lot of design options for the future fence, and some of them will require additional processing before installation. For example, choosing grooves in span supports for horizontal placement of logs.
Material selection
It is necessary to choose the most well-treated logs of the same thickness as possible. The closer their shape is to a cylinder, the neater and denser the fence will be.
The preferred configuration depends on the type of future fence. For palisades, the use of logs with a diameter of 100-150 mm is justified. Overall this best option and for other types of fences. It is better to calculate the appropriate length with a margin of about 40 cm - you can always cut off the excess, but it will not be possible to add without losing strength.
It is necessary to choose only well-dried logs. Otherwise, drying trunks will decrease in volume, creating gaps in the fence.
Required quantity logs can be easily calculated by dividing the length of the proposed fence by their diameter. A few spare logs will also come in handy here. Because it is always better if they remain unused than if they are not available when needed.
Installation
After purchasing the required number of logs and processing them, you can begin building the fence. The process begins with the trench. It is necessary to dig a ditch along the entire length of the future fence, a third of the length of the installed fence elements, but not less than 50 cm deep. Then its bottom is covered with a layer of compacted crushed stone from 20 to 30 cm thick.
Without a reinforcing “cushion,” the fence will sink deeper into the ground under its own weight and, as a result, its integrity will be compromised. Massive fences are installed on a strip concrete foundation.
Prepared logs are placed into the finished recess, several pieces at a time. The base of the span is covered with earth, followed by compact compaction. To increase strength, the rammed earth can be moistened with water.
In any case, during the installation of the fence you will need to use a hammer or even a sledgehammer. In order to metal tool does not damage the wood, special softening plastic linings are used. You can find similar accessories at your nearest hardware store.
When constructing a fence from horizontally located logs, you should start with the supporting parts of the spans. Their location is pre-marked. At the installation site, sleeves are concreted from steel pipes of a suitable diameter, into which the supports are then placed.
They have always been famous for their popularity. This was largely due to its relatively inexpensive price and ease of installation. But today the situation has changed a little, and now they create not just fences from wood, but real masterpieces.
Let's look at everything in detail.
Making a wooden fence on your own. Step-by-step procedure
Construction wooden fence can be divided into several stages, namely:
- Installation support pillars;
- Installation of crossbars;
- Covering the installed frame.
Each stage in construction must be completed in full.
Installation of support pillars
Installation of support pillars is carried out using the backfill method. The algorithm of actions is as follows:
It is important to know! Sand and crushed stone will fit more densely if the mixture is wetted with water.
Installation of cross beams
Transverse joists, which are made of wood, are best installed using brackets.
The installation algorithm is as follows:
It is necessary to pay attention to the fact that the distance between the transverse joists can be reduced. However, in this case, the structure may reduce its strength. The support itself must be at least 10 centimeters higher than the casing, and the bottom must be at a distance from the ground no more than 15 centimeters.
Covering the installed frame
Before you start installing the mounting boards themselves, you need to remember that there are several methods.
In one of the methods, the picket fence is installed on the logs before the latter are mounted into the supports, namely:
If we talk about the second installation method, it involves the direct installation of each board separately. In this case, you need to prepare for a long and labor-intensive process. After each installed board, it is necessary to measure the distance between them (if you need clearance between the boards) and check for a clear vertical line. 
It is worth noting that any of the methods is popular among owners of private and country houses, so it is impossible to say which one is better. Everyone chooses an option for themselves depending on the choice of wooden fence design. 
How can you treat and paint a wooden fence?
It is necessary to understand that an installed wooden fence takes on a variable climate in all seasons. For this reason, it is mandatory.
Important to remember! Before installation, all metal components of the fence must be primed and painted.
Do not forget that ultraviolet solar radiation damage to a wooden fence for the reason that as a result of their exposure, the wood loses internal moisture, thereby losing its bearing capacity and the appearance itself.
This impregnation must be applied several times to the primer with the possibility of deep penetration. After this, you can use moisture-resistant paint and varnish to give the wooden fence an attractive look.
The price of pleasure
If we talk about cost necessary building materials, average price indicated in the table:
| Name of building material | Volume | Cost price |
| Board | 1 m 3 | About 3 thousand rubles |
| Cement | 1 kg | About 10 rubles |
| Antiseptic | 10 l. | About 2 thousand rubles |
| self-tapping screws | 500 pcs. | 300 – 400 rubles |
| dye | 3 l. | About 400 rubles |
| Metallic profile | 1 meter | About 130 rubles |
| Grinding wheel | 1 PC. | About 50 rubles |
| Edged board | 1 m 3 | About 4 thousand rubles |
Design options
To date, there is no other material besides wood that is equally flexible for implementing various design solutions (at the same time, wood is very affordable in terms of price). 
And this is how this fence has internal view. No one will say that the view has become worse. 
In this version of the design solution, attention was paid to every detail. You can see how the contours themselves are worked out, and the corners are smoothed to the fullest extent. You can see in the photo sliding gates from the same yard. 
Agree, few of us know what techniques this or that designer uses to realize his fantasies. But they use: firing, create the effect of antiquity, successfully combine wood with various forged metal elements, and even simply sand the wood and paint it in various shades. 
What do you think about brutal style? Agree, the view is simply impressive. 
To implement such a design solution, you only need a jigsaw, Sander and woodworking skills. If you have the tools and desire, you can achieve the effect of shabby wood.
How do you feel about puzzles? If you wish, you can initially draw a picture on the board, and then cut it out according to the template. It is worth paying attention to the fact that this work It is considered jewelry, since each board has its own distinct size and curve. 
At the same time, the most complex process When erecting such a wooden fence, its installation is considered (not everyone is capable of making such an arrangement). 
For construction, first of all, you need to carefully select the board. Under no circumstances should it be allowed to have any place on the board. different thickness or width. In this version distinctive feature is his affordable price, but this is compensated by the enormous labor that is necessary to create such a creation. 
Despite the fact that a board up to 1.5 centimeters thick is not very suitable for fences, it can be used to create an excellent lattice-type fence. Agree, the view is no worse than the previous options. And if you decorate it with greenery that will entwine it, the view will be gorgeous. 
Over the past few years, unedged boards have increased in price by more than 15-20%, but this does not prevent it from remaining in the low price range. Moreover, it is often used when constructing a wooden fence in this style. 
As you can see, this example clearly shows one of the design solutions when working with not edged board. If desired, you can achieve any exclusive solution.
What do you think of the design solution in the style of blinds? Agree, the view is just bomb. 
A selection of wooden fences
Beautiful wooden fences
With a little woodworking skills you can create a beautiful fence in a short time.
This design option is popular among many owners of private houses, since its creation does not take much time and effort. Agree that the view is very attractive.
Standard fencing that is suitable for both private houses and suburban areas. It does not require any special skills or abilities, but at the same time it looks beautiful.
Carved fences
To create carved fences with your own hands, you need to have wood carving skills. 
It can take more than 3 months to create such a fence, since every little thing plays a big role. But it's worth it. This type of fence suits any interior. 
What about this cutting option? Surely many people dream of such a fence, because it can not only emphasize individual style, but also to create the illusion of antiquity.
Decorative fences
Decorative fences are often used to create rock gardens or simply in landscape design.
Small wooden fences can highlight the peculiarity of a particular plant and complement the interior of a personal plot.
If desired, you can create any decorative fence of one color or another. This does not require any skills or abilities.
Antique wooden fences
Many people dream of creating a small fairy tale from their plot and completely immersing themselves in the old days. 
This version of the antique effect is perfect for areas where wooden houses. In combination with such a fence, you can create a real fairy tale for yourself.
What if you add a little decor in the form of a thick rope? The view is simply impressive. Surely neighbors will come to the owner of such a fence with admiration.
Wood-look corrugated fences
If for some reason there is no desire to work with wood, you can install a fence made of corrugated sheets. Thus, you can not only increase the service life, but also create the illusion of a wooden fence. 
If desired, you can use corrugated sheeting in light wood tones, which fits perfectly into any interior. The service life of such a fence is over 25 years. 
Another option is to use corrugated sheeting in darker colors, which allows you to create the illusion of varnished wood. Great for wooden houses, or buildings sheathed in plastic to resemble wood.
For a private home
Depending on the wishes of the owner of a private house, the fence itself can be made in any style. 
High fences have always been popular with owners of private houses. Thanks to them, you can hide everything that happens on the site from prying eyes, making the fence beautiful and exclusive. 
Another option is to install a fence with small gaps. This type of fencing is perfect for any private home, regardless of its size and style.
From corrugated sheets to look like wood
As a rule, installation of this type of fence is affordable for any resident of our country. Such fencing is perfect for installation anywhere, regardless of whether it is a dacha or your own private home. 
In this photo you can see that the profiled sheet can combine a combination of decorative stone and wood itself. Looks great and has a long service life. 
Great for those who love minimalism suitable option creating a fence from corrugated sheets to look like wood. This variety belongs to the classic style and is perfect both for performing its direct duty - protecting the site, and as a good decorative element.
Made of brick and wood
When creating a fence, brick and wood combine simply perfectly. Designers often try to combine them when creating interiors both inside and outside the room. 
The fence is made in a classic style using ordinary bricks and boards. Thanks to a successfully selected combination of color palette, such a fence looks not only rich, but also very attractive.
This composition combines the figured elements of a wooden fence with a brick one. Well chosen color palette allows you to use it in any meta.
Made of stone and wood
This combination building materials in most cases it is used in country houses and cottages. 
It will be very difficult to recreate such a fence on your own, and you need not only to be able to handle this material, but also to know the intricacies of mixing a special solution. But you must admit that such fences can surprise even the most picky critic with their beauty. 
Wooden fences combined with decorative stone create the illusion of an ancient fortress. Often used for installation in country dachas or on the territory of private companies.
Wood patterns for fences
Nowadays, in the world of wooden fences, there is a trend towards using additional patterns. They allow you to create something special and unique of its kind from a simple fence. 
As you can see, such a pattern is very difficult to make with your own hands, unless a person has sufficient skills in working with wood carving. 
You can order a composition from wood carving specialists in chinese style as shown in the photo. This option is considered quite common in our country.
Original wooden fences
Surely every owner of his property would like to install an original fence. But what are they? 
Such original design wooden fences are not common in our country. This is largely due to the expensive pleasure (the initial cost can range from 40-50 thousand rubles). 
This design solution allows you to not only make your neighbors look at the fence with envy, but also makes the site very rich and individual.
Horizontal wooden fences
Many of our compatriots, when installing fences, often ask themselves the question: which is better, vertical or horizontal? In fact, the only difference here is taste. 
Speaking about such a vertical fence, we can confidently say that anyone can make it on their own, while spending a short period of time and money. Classic style Suitable for fencing any area. 
The photo shows that the vertical fence is made using complex design feature. It is very difficult to do this at home, and if you wish, you will have to seek help from specialists. But it's worth it.
Forging with wood in the fence
At all times, they gave the fence power and attractiveness. However, due to its considerable price, it is not very popular. 
The wooden fence using forged metal spokes in the photo makes it original of its kind. Gives the area style and beauty. Moreover, forged elements make the fence structure very rigid, which significantly increases its service life. 
This option of combining wood, brick and, in fact, forged elements, makes the fence practically lifelong. It is not subject to difficult climatic conditions, it is difficult to damage, and most importantly, it is beautiful and stylish.
Picket fences
Most of our citizens make fences from picket fences. You can make a very good fence with this material. Just look at these photos. 
Of course, if you paint this fence and then varnish it, it will turn out quite good, but it’s still quite attractive. What is characteristic is that it can be done in the shortest possible time (the period of its construction is no more than 1 - 2 days). 
If you have a wild imagination and the great desire of the owner of the site, you can create such a magnificent designer fence that will never cease to please the eyes of everyone around.
Fence made of wood ladder
A ladder fence is not uncommon in Everyday life from owners of private houses. Firstly, this variety allows you to save on the board, since small gaps allow you to reduce the volume of material, and secondly, it turns out quite well in the end. 
The photo shows a ladder fence, which is still lined with corrugated sheets on the inside. Thanks to this, from the outside it looks very impressive, while inside the site the fence looks very neat. 
This type of ladder is in most cases installed in private country houses. Small gaps between the boards allow you to see the beautiful green spaces that can be planted behind the fence.
How to make a fence inexpensively
The video below shows how to do it cheap fence made of wood.
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For a long time there was a stockade business card small Russian cities and border guard fortresses. The protective barrier was sufficient to avoid being taken by surprise and to repel the fleeting brutal onslaught of the quarrelsome steppe inhabitants. The site of future large settlements was fenced off with a palisade. Mighty logs pointed at the top testified to the unwavering determination of the population to defend their new small homeland and at the same time designated central part of the city being founded.
Types of wooden fencing
Genetic memory of the descendants of the peoples who inhabited Ancient Rus', retained memories of a palisade, a fence made of vertically placed logs, as a powerful and reliable protection from external attacks. Besides Vacation home surrounded by an ancient fence, acquires a special charm.
There are several options for making such a fence. Each of them differs in the material used and the amount of financial investment required. The fence can be an exact prototype of a fortress palisade (another name for a wooden fence) or represent its “budget” version.
To build a palisade according to all the rules of ancient fortification art, you will have to pay a large sum of money. We must immediately discard fantasies about the gifts of the forest in the form of fallen trees. In order to collect required amount logs, you will either have to spend most of your life searching for material, or live in a wooded area where hurricanes and falling trees are common. In some cases, the design of a fence made of stakes does not lose its relevance and deserves consideration. We'll talk about how to make a wicker fence with your own hands below. For now, let's focus on the main option.
The construction of a monumental structure requires not only creativity, but also purely economic approach with elements of technical and estimate calculations.
The traditional version of a stockade involves constructing fence lines made of logs dug or driven into the ground, tightly adjacent to each other. This method has a number of advantages:
- absence of technical difficulties in the execution of work;
- minimal need for additional consumables;
- installation speed.
The main disadvantage is the fragility of such a structure. All the tricks associated with organizing a sand bed, firing and treating the part of the log immersed in the ground with a septic tank, if they extend the service life of the wooden structure, then only slightly. And for those who hope that the palisade will protect and decorate their estate for many years, this option is unacceptable.
Temporary performance characteristics will grow significantly if you prepare the foundation for the fence.
This design of a palisade fence when using a good basic and consumables guaranteed will serve the owner for two to three decades.
Materials and tools
To build a real palisade you should prepare:
- the required amount of “round timber” of a given diameter (optimally from 10 to 15 cm) and length;
- metal rods (dowels), which can be made independently from reinforcing bars, with a cross-section of 12 mm, a length of 20-25 cm, depending on the standard diameter of the log;
- construction staples;
- pipes-glasses.
Such a structure is a monolith, which eliminates the need for additional timber lintels and preserves the aesthetic value of the structure.
It is possible to do the cutting of the top part of the log with your own hands. The only tool you will need is well sharpened ax. The reinforcement is cut using a grinder equipped with a cutting disc. The diameter of the drill for the through holes should be a couple of millimeters smaller than the cross-section of the dowels, which will ensure good holding tightness of the joints. To enhance the tightening effect, the staples are slightly bent along an internal arc.
For those who find this fencing option too expensive, we can offer some alternative to a palisade, which actually does not require financial investment.
To organize an enclosing structure of this type, solid tree trunks are not required. And it’s a stretch to call a wicker fence a palisade in the usual sense of the word. fence stake, can be made from any pole. Most often, medium tree branches are used for this, preferably hardwood. For most regions of Russia, blanks made from pine or birch are relevant.
The material for knitting wattle fabric is also prepared independently in any possible places. In the floodplains of rivers there are usually many thickets of bushes and trees of the willow family. Thin and flexible willow branches– an excellent material for a wicker fence. In the forest you can find thickets of willow or hazel. The main requirement is that the branches be “living”, filled with juice. This will help avoid creases during working bending of the vine.
Execution options
There are several options for wicker fences. They differ in the way they are weaved:
- horizontal;
- vertical.
and for structural integrity:
- with a single frame;
- assembled from individual segments.
Horizontal weaving reproduces traditional village life with a simple way of life, but dear to the heart with its simplicity and good nature. The stakes driven into the ground, pointed at the bottom, are located 50 cm from each other. Weaving begins from the bottom row, covering as many as possible with a snake. vertical elements frame. Each subsequent row is started from the opposite side, forming, superimposed on the previous one, an infinity sign, or, more simply, the number “8”. The protruding “tails” of the branches are cut off with pruning shears.
Often practiced modular wattle forms. One and a half meter segments are manufactured separately and subsequently installed at the location of the fence.
Wicker fences, where the elements of the fabric are arranged vertically, are more reminiscent of a guard fence in their menacing appearance than a village tyn. To carry out this design, the post-supporting stakes are driven in much less frequently - after about two meters, but they have much larger dimensions and are connected to each other by three jumpers. The branches for weaving this type of fence are taken from three to five centimeters thick. Each subsequent row starts and exits from the side opposite to the previous one. As a result, the top of the fence is crowned with V-shaped wooden bristles, which alone discourage uninvited guests from entering the fenced area.
Since we decided to use logs as a basis, it is necessary to decide how we will install them relative to the ground, that is, vertically, like a picket fence, or horizontally, in order to get not a blank wall, but an almost elegant fence. Each of the options under consideration has its advantages.
In the first case, the pillars are traditionally buried in the ground or filled with a strip foundation, although you can deviate from tradition by installing the logs on a transverse beam raised above the ground, attached at the ends to the load-bearing pillars dividing the fence into sections. The second option gives more room for imagination, for example, you can make a stone base for such a fence, and put logs on it, or use a brick foundation divided into sections by brick pillars.
Before constructing a fence, logs and other wooden elements if available, they must be soaked with antiseptics.
Both options also have negative sides. In the first case, if the logs are buried in the ground, they will rot without careful treatment of the lower ends, and pouring them with concrete requires making a high strip foundation, which means additional material consumption. Horizontal logs with a stone base will look beautiful and it will be a reliable structure.
But such a fence should be made higher so that, having jumped, it would be impossible to catch the crown with your hands, otherwise protective functions of this structure will be zero, because each log will provide excellent support for the legs. If you leave gaps between the logs, in the “ranch” style, such a fence will only have decorative properties.
What is good about a fence made of rounded logs?
If you use the logs as they are, in the condition in which they arrive from the sawmill, when all the surface treatment consists of only stripped bark and trimmed knots, you will get a beautiful fence in only two cases. Firstly, this is the palisade described above, and you will have to leave small gaps between the logs or install them in a checkerboard pattern, since due to Not flat surface they will not fit tightly together. Secondly, this is a ranch style fence, where again there is a gap between the horizontally laid logs.
Another thing is a fence made of rounded logs; it looks neat and solid regardless of the position in which the wooden structural elements are installed, horizontal or vertical. The processed logs fit tightly, and, with the right approach to choosing the material, they look the same, as they say, one to one.
Perfect round shape in cross section without any protrusions or recesses, it does not allow snow to linger in winter between rows of horizontally laid logs, which will be a definite plus during the thaw - there will be less dampness in the joints. And the main advantage is that no additional finishing is needed, which means time, effort and money are saved, despite the fact that rounded logs are more expensive.
How to make a log fence yourself?
The first stage of constructing any fence is digging a trench, and the higher the structure, the deeper you should dig into the ground. In essence, this is the principle of counterweights, where the ground surface acts as a fulcrum; the higher the fence is, the deeper and heavier (by pouring concrete) its underground part should be in order to avoid collapse, especially when it comes to heavy logs.
On average, with a fence height of 1.8 meters, a half-meter trench with a sand cushion at the bottom of up to 20 centimeters is sufficient, then concrete pouring . If we want a foundation made of crushed stone, we extend the concrete foundation only to ground level, although it can be raised higher, and the above-ground part will become the base of the fence.
The stone tape is laid out by selecting the most conveniently interlocking pieces of rock and then cementing them. If voids form somewhere, we place smaller pieces of stone in them. We immediately decide what the pillars between the sections of the fence will be, also stone or made of metal pipe large section. In the first case, a profile must still pass along the central axis of each column, to which thick metal rods are welded horizontally, extending outward from the masonry, so that they align with the central axes of the logs when they are laid.
At the ends of each log, on one side, a hole is made for the rod, and on the other, a cut is made to the length of the radius; when laying, the log is placed on one rod, and pushed down onto the other. To prevent the logs from rotating and moisture from accumulating between them, coat the joints with resin or mastic as you assemble the fence.
I’m answering your question about installing a wooden fence in your home.
Materials
To build a wooden fence, I needed the following materials:
- logs (pine) with a diameter of 180 mm and a length of 6 m (for poles)
- edged board 100mm wide, 25mm thick and 4 meters long (for a picket fence)
- bars with a cross section of 50x80 mm, 6 meters long (for beds)
- bars with a cross section of 50x50 mm, 3 meters long (for screed strips)
- bars with a cross section of 40x80 mm, 4 meters long (for the frame of gate leaves and wickets)
- garage hinges, self-tapping screws, wood grouse screws, nails 120mm and 60mm long
- decorative antiseptic
Material calculation
I will calculate the materials based on the size of my plot. The width of the plot is 38 meters, the length of the plot is 30 meters.
1. Pillars
- I installed the pillars at a distance of 3 m from each other, 45 pillars were installed
- The pillars were buried in the ground to a depth of approximately 1.2 m, the height of the pillars from the ground surface was 1.8 m. Total: 3 m
2. Lay down
- for the fence I used six-meter bars with a section of 50x80 mm
3. Picket fence
- for the picket fence I used pine boards (humidity? 20%), before installing the fence, the boards for the picket fence were pre-processed on a woodworking machine (planed on both sides and sides)
4.Gates and wicket
- I made the gate and wicket, just like the fence, from wood; for the frame of the gate and wicket I used a pine block with a cross-section of 40x80 mm and boards, the same as for the picket fence
- gate size – 3.8 m width and 2 m height; The size of the gate is 1.2 m width and 2 m height.
Note:The height of the gate and wicket is indicated by the height of the frame cladding with a picket fence, the height of the frame itself is 1.6 m.
Requirement for bars and boards for gates and wickets: bars -5 pcs. (0.07 cubic meters), boards - 42 pcs. (0.17 cubic meters).
Fence device
Step one. Drilling holes for pillars
I made holes for the posts using a drill (blade diameter 250 mm). Why is the diameter of the drill knives larger than the diameter of the posts? A larger diameter of the pit is necessary so that it is possible to line broken bricks or medium-sized stones in order to strengthen the pillars in the ground.
The holes were drilled to a depth of 1.5 m, a layer of crushed stone about 30 cm thick was poured onto the bottom of the holes - this is necessary so that water does not accumulate around the pillars, but goes into the ground.
Step two. Preparation of pillars and their installation
Before sawing, I sanded the logs and cut off the knots. Afterwards, I sawed the log with a chainsaw into pieces 3 meters long. Next, it is necessary to treat the logs with an antiseptic. But I did not treat the part of the logs that would be in the ground with an antiseptic; I chose the method of treating fence posts, which was still used in those days when people did not know antiseptics, bitumen, etc. I charred this part of the logs on the fire.
To char the underground part of the pillars (D) on a fire, I made a formwork from road curbs (A), inside of which the fire will be lit, a layer of crushed stone 5-8 cm thick was poured onto the bottom of the formwork, this measure was caused to avoid burns during a long-term burning of the fire soil. In order to be able to put a larger amount of fuel inside the formwork at a time, I made linings of bricks (B) under the logs - the height from the surface of the bottom of the formwork to the logs is approximately 45-55 cm. I placed trimmings of beams (B) under the other ends of the logs.
In order for the logs to be charred to a certain size (110 cm, maximum 120 cm - the depth of installation of logs in the ground), I wrapped the log with a strip of foil (D) approximately 20-25 cm wide. The foil does not burn and will serve as a limiter for the impact of fire on the surface of the log.
The approximate processing time for four logs (one stack) was about 1 hour. When firing the logs, it is necessary to rotate them in a circle - an interval of 10-15 minutes. The log should not just turn black from soot, but it should also become charred, cracks characteristic of charring wood should appear - their depth should be at least 5 mm, maximum 10 mm.
Note:The time for charring logs on a fire can vary, it depends on the intensity of the fire, the fuel used, and the moisture content of the wooden posts.
Important!
Roofing felt, roofing felt, plastic film etc., in this case, the service life of wooden poles is reduced by 50-60%!
Carbonization of pillars can also be done using blowtorch or gas burner, but at the same time you will have additional consumables Money- gasoline, gas.
While the next batch of pillars was being charred on the fire, the finished pillars (B) could be installed. The pillars were installed in a hole on a bed of crushed stone (A). To seal the pillars I used broken bricks and natural stone(IN). The stones and bricks laid in the gap between the pillar and the walls of the pits were compacted with a piece of timber (section 50x80 mm), a clay castle was made around the pillars (D) so that the melting and rainwater did not have the opportunity to flow directly under the fence posts.
Step three. Fastening slightly
Sledges are transverse bars attached to the posts to which the picket fence is attached.
To attach it to the posts, I made markings at the top and bottom of the posts, applying the strip - template to the posts, checking the horizontal position of the strip - template using a level.
According to the markings, I made notches in the pillars - the width of the notch in the column should not be more than 1 mm greater than the width of the notch, since the installation of the notches in the notches in the columns must be carried out with tension (that is, the notches need to be hammered into the notches using a mallet - wooden hammer or with the butt of an ax through a spacer), the depth of the cut is equal to half the thickness of the blade.
When the notches were made in all the pillars, I began to fasten them lightly - fastening was carried out using nails 120 mm long. Afterwards I treated it lightly and aboveground part pillars with decorative antiseptic.
Step four. Fixing and configured picket trim
A picket fence made of boards 100 mm wide, 20 mm thick and 2 m long was prepared in advance, so all that remained was to attach the boards to the slabs. The picket fence was not attached to the legs with a solid shield, but, leaving a distance of 2 cm - the template was a strip 2 cm thick and 5 cm wide. Why was the picket fence not fastened with a solid shield?
- first: after the boards begin to dry out, cracks of various sizes will begin to form in the solid board - this will negatively affect aesthetically pleasing fence
- the spaces between the boards help better resistance wind, the pressure of the air flow is significantly reduced.
When attaching the picket fence to the legs, I controlled the height level not at the top of the fence, but at the bottom, since top part the picket fence will align with the configured trim.
For the configured trim of the top of the picket fence, I made a template from a strip of plywood, cutting out the configuration of the top of the fence along one edge that I needed. The cutting was done using an electric jigsaw.
Step five. Installation of wickets and gates
Before installing the gate and wicket, I attached 30 mm thick boards to the posts, this made it possible to achieve maximum verticality of the surface to which the gate and wicket will be attached (posts made of non-cylindered wood have unevenness and a tapered trunk).
To hang the gate I used garage hinges. The hinges to the gate were attached to the upper and lower bars of the gate frame using wood grouse screws 50 mm long, and attached to the post with a length of 150 mm.
The gate canopy was made using smaller overhead hinges, which were attached to the gate and post using wood screws.
The distance from the ground surface to the bottom of the gate and wicket was left about 10 cm, so that in winter, when the snow cover grows or if it is necessary to raise the height of the path, the gate and wicket open without hindrance.
Note:if it is required that the gap between the ground surface and the wicket or gate be closed, then strips of hard rubber can be attached to the bottom (for example, a strip from a conveyor belt such as is used in agricultural machinery).
Device wooden gates and gates
The construction of the gate leaves began with the manufacture of the frame. At the ends of the bars I made notches - “into the paw”, the depth of the notch is equal to 1/2 the thickness of the bar (I used a 40 mm thick bar to construct the frame, respectively, the depth of the notches is 20 mm). I fastened the frame posts using self-tapping screws (as can be seen in the photo) - fastening in a “square”. To give the frame of the gate leaves rigidity, I installed in each corner connection jib.
In the center of the side posts of the gate leaves, I made a groove for installing a transverse rail into it, which will serve both as a tie for the side posts and as a place for attaching the trim of the gate leaves. The groove for installing the rail was made using electric drill(the power of the drill must be at least 1 kW) and a finger cutter, the depth of the groove is 4 cm, with a frame post width of 8 cm.
Frame assembly sequence:
- first to gather side racks frame of the gate leaves and the rail - screed, a layer of epoxy glue was applied to the tenon of the rail (this guarantees reliable fastening screeds and frame posts)
- the second step will be to connect the upper and lower bars with the side posts of the frame; before fastening them together with self-tapping screws, you need to check that the angles of the frame are 90° (checked using a square, you can use a regular school square)
- The last step in assembling the frame is the installation and fastening of the jibs.
Important!
The assembly of the frame of gate leaves and gates must be carried out on a flat surface to avoid distortions, which will lead to an uneven connection of the structural parts of the frame.
The assembly of the gate frame is carried out in the same way as the assembly of gate leaf frames. After the frames were ready, I lined them with picket fences and treated them with a decorative antiseptic.
Hit the gate door handle- lock. To install such a handle in the gate you need:
- in the side post of the frame you need to make a sample using a finger cutter and drill holes for installing and fastening the handle-lock mechanism
- Attach a latch to the post, which will ensure that the “tongue” of the locking mechanism of the handle snaps into place and the gate will be securely closed.
In order for the fence to serve for at least 20 years, it is necessary once every three to four years to coat the surfaces of the picket fence, the undersides and the above-ground part of the posts with a decorative antiseptic or paint (oil paint) if your fence was originally painted.
If your area floods in the spring, or clay soil, does not remove moisture well, then in this case it is recommended to dig along the fence gutter, along which water will flow from the fence posts, which reduces the risk that the posts will become unusable after 7-10 years.
