Construction is an extremely expensive process, especially by today's standards. Hence, it is quite natural that any space should bear a certain load, that is, not be ownerless. This is a reasonable approach, but it’s a shame that people suffered undeservedly because of it small room, regarding which certain standards were even created at one time.

Modern builders consider a vestibule in a private house to be completely useless. They motivate this by the fact that a small room without heating only takes heat from the house, therefore, energy consumption increases. This is partly true, but they forget that thanks to this room, the cold from the street does not enter the house. Simply put, Entrance door reliably protected from piercing winds and nasty precipitation. It is always dry and relatively warm, so the heat from the house does not escape outside, but, on the contrary, remains inside.

The new role of the vestibule in a private house

It is likely that the whole problem with the unpopularity of the vestibule lies in its size. What if we made it a little bigger? This will expand it functionality. For example, you can arrange a dressing room in it, where all outerwear and shoes will be located. If your house is connected to a garage, then such a room will act as a buffer zone that will not allow cold and exhaust from the garage to enter the living space.

options for placing a vestibule in a private house
example of building a vestibule with your own hands

The main task of a vestibule in a private house is to preserve heat. Despite this, many consider it optional, citing the fact that it is better to install double door. Indeed, two doors retain heat much better than one. But due to this, the time it takes you to get into the house will increase, which means that the cold stream will still be able to enter with you. Therefore, having a small protected space in front of the front door is a necessity.

Design features of a vestibule in a private house

Having finally decided on the role and functions of the vestibule in a private house, and realizing its necessity, you can begin construction. There are vestibules two types: built into the structure of the house and attached to it. Let's look at each type in more detail.

For the construction of an attached vestibule The first thing you need to do is make a foundation. It makes sense to coordinate the design of the foundation with the designer, since it depends on a number of factors: the composition of the soil, the weight of the structure, the presence of a porch, etc. Most often chosen strip foundation. However, it all depends on the specific situation.

vestibule in the form of a veranda
external vestibule in a private house

There is no need to provide heating in this room, i.e. heating is optional. It is enough to insulate the door and walls well. This will ensure reliable sealing. However, if you want the vestibule to serve as a hallway, you can install an additional radiator or heat gun. But first, let's return to the construction aspects.

It is better to build the walls from the same material as the house. Additionally, they can be insulated using foam sheets or mineral wool mats. Regardless of the option chosen, insulation will play an important role. In winter it will not let the heat out of the house, and in summer it will keep it cool.

Now you need to tackle the floor. Firstly, the vestibule floor is lowered below the main floor of the building by 1-2 steps. This will keep the heat better. It is better to make the floor concrete to protect against rodents. You can lay a board on top of the concrete - this will make the room warmer, or you can lay tiles, which will help simplify cleaning. You should choose tiles with a rough surface to increase contact with shoes and protect against slipping. Some homeowners install a water-heated floor in the vestibule, but in our opinion, this is not convenient. Excessive heat in the vestibule will contribute to the formation of condensation on doors and locks; in winter, this can lead to freezing and problems with opening and closing doors. Heating the vestibule also implies the presence of ventilation in the room.

interior decoration
house with external vestibule

As for lighting, placing a window in the vestibule in a private house is not at all necessary. Artificial lighting in the form of a lamp will also be sufficient, especially considering the fact that it will only work for a few hours a day. For convenience, many owners provide a small window in the vestibule or doors with glass inserts. This is done for the purpose natural light premises in daytime days. This decision is entirely at your discretion. Doors with glass inserts will be less airtight and not as reliable. It is worth considering that external doors should be installed so that they open outwards.

The size of the vestibule is also not an unimportant thing. Since the time spent in this room is not significant, he does not want to devote a lot of space from the total area of ​​the house. However, it is necessary to consider comfort for both you and all members of your family. The dimensions of this room should also allow for the possible movement of furniture from the house to the street and back. A depth of 1.4-1.5 m, in our opinion, will be sufficient. The width must take into account the dimensions door leaf internal and external doors (it is advisable to install the doors opposite each other).

The built-in vestibule is easier to organize. The same recommendations apply here, with the exception of the construction itself. You will not need additional insulation of the walls in the vestibule area. Many people make access to the garage from the vestibule, it’s convenient. We recommend placing special mats for cleaning shoes at the entrance. Rugs should have large cells and hard pile.

Walls from the inside: whim or necessity?

It is recommended to choose the finishing of a room with a constant temperature difference from moisture-resistant materials. You can see the vestibule layout options on our page.

As you can see, building a vestibule is quite simple. You don’t need to spend a lot of money to do this, but you will experience all its benefits. Not only will you reduce heating costs, but you will also be able to ensure a comfortable environment in your home.

Each room in a home, be it a house or an apartment, has its own characteristics. The hallway is no exception. In a private house, the hallway has direct contact with the street, as a result, cold and dirt enter the house through it. In the apartment, the floor in the hallway bears the main operational load due to contact with dirt and street moisture.

In addition, hallways are often small in size. At the same time, on small area There is a lot of furniture to mark. You need a wardrobe, a hanger, and a shoe rack. There is very little open floor left. That is why, if you can buy furniture for the hallway by clicking on a link to an online furniture store, then choosing the type of heated floor for the hallway requires thoughtful planning.

Choosing a heated floor in the hallway

The modern construction services market offers 4 options for installing heated floors in residential premises. I will list the devices according to their complexity, from simple to complex.

• Thermal electric mats;
• Film heated floor;
• Electric cable heated floor;
• Water heated floor.

Each type of heated floor has its own characteristics that you need to know before choosing it for the hallway.

Thermal electric mats

If we take into account that tiles are often laid on the floor in the hallway, then electric thermal mats are ideally suited for the hallway.

Heat mats for sale in finished form, according to the dimensions of a pre-made calculation. A floor calculation can be done for you in the store. If we take into account that thermal mats are not placed under furniture, the number of mats for the hallway will be minimal.

The readiness of purchased mats allows you to minimize installation work. They are relatively unpretentious to install. A level base, space for installing the regulator and a power supply are required. There is no need to do special covering work for them; the tiles are laid directly on rolled out mats, and they are covered with tile adhesive.

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However, mats also have disadvantages. Cover with thermal mats better than tiles or porcelain stoneware, and if you plan to use wood-based coatings for flooring, it is better to choose a different type of heated floor. For example, film heated floor.

Film heated floor for the hallway

Film heated floors fit any finishing material, which do not require gluing. Board, parquet, parquet board, laminate, linoleum and carpet secured with baseboards, all these materials will perfectly cover a film floor. Installing a film floor is not difficult, and you can do it yourself.

Cable heated floor

Cable heated floors are heated with an electric cable, similar to those in thermal mats, but with more complex installation. Installation of this type of heated floor is much more complicated than those listed above.

• The heat cable is laid on concrete base, which must be covered with reflective material.
• To install the cable, you need to install special holders, and the cable itself needs to be laid according to a complex pre-calculated pattern.
• But most importantly, electrical cable The heated floor must be covered with a layer of screed to ensure uniform heating and protection of the cable. Such a shelter allows you not to think about the arrangement of future furniture, and install warm floors over the entire floor area.

Such technological complexity of installation makes it unprofitable to use it only for the hallway. However, a cable heated floor in the hallway can perfectly become part of common system cable floor for the entire home.

Water heated floor

• Water heated floor is the most a complex system floor heating. It makes no sense to consider it as a separate system for heating the hallway.
• The use of a water heated floor system in the hallway can only be considered as part of the overall heating system for the house with water floors.
• The difficulties of a water heated floor include a separate water supply, complex and expensive installation of water distribution and circulation, covering with a screed, difficult startup and operation.

conclusions

Putting all of the above together, an autonomous heated floor in the hallway should be made from.

Even in the most inhospitable house, the front door opens constantly, whether you come yourself or guests, ask the dog to come home, go to work in the garden or do something around the house. During the entire time the door is open, the air carries with it heat or cold from the street, and the feet of those who enter dust and dirt during the cold and damp season.

To solve such problems, a vestibule is built in the house.

Despite the seemingly obvious benefits of the vestibule, many perceive it small space at the entrance only as a small storage room and a place for shoes. The following opinion is also widespread - this mini-room is not needed, it eats up the residential area without much benefit, and also requires additional expenses for arrangement. And many designers ignore the vestibule when planning the construction of cottages. This decision is justified as follows: it is enough to make a well-insulated (or better yet, double) door, and these short-term “ventilations” will not play a big role.

However, a vestibule is necessary and useful in every home. The only exception is buildings in the southern regions of the country, where the climate is milder.

It should be borne in mind that building codes do not directly oblige the installation of a vestibule in residential buildings.

But, according to the regulations, living rooms(bedrooms and children's rooms) must be separated from the street by at least three doors. This requirement is fully met by the vestibule, which is an intermediate, buffer space between the first and second (internal) entrance doors.

Due to their sequential opening cold air remains between them and does not enter the living quarters. It also preserves home warmth, heating devices They don’t “warm up” the street. And in the summer, the coolness in the house is preserved, which is especially important when using air conditioning. Thus, both winter and summer provide more efficient use climate control technology and savings on heating or cooling costs.

In addition, the vestibule blocks the formation of drafts and prevents the penetration of smoke and various odors into the home. Finally, here you can leave your shoes, and with them the dirt.

Features of the vestibule layout

There are no separate standards for the design of vestibules. However, there are rules that also regulate the arrangement of this space.

It is advisable to locate the entrance to the house, and along with it the vestibule, taking into account the prevailing wind directions in the area. A door on the leeward side will make the house a little warmer, because gusts of wind will not blow into it.

Wherein the vestibule can be built into the main volume building or attached to it in the form of a protruding part (risalit), where a staircase can also be placed. The front door must open outward: this improves its resistance to burglary and increases free space in the vestibule, provides safer evacuation in case of fire.

It is not necessary to organize natural lighting; artificial lighting is sufficient. But in interior door glazing can be provided: this will increase both illumination and improve the visual perception of space. The floor covering must be hard and non-slippery (including when wet). When installing dirt collection grates, they should be installed flush with the top floor covering, without a protruding threshold. This guarantees safer travel. Finally, the vestibule area is often lowered two or three steps below the level of the first floor, which further helps to retain the cold in this room.

Reliable insulation

The fullness of the vestibule’s role as a constructive temperature barrier for other rooms depends, first of all, on its thermal insulation qualities. External wall the vestibule, being part of the external structures of the house, is an integral element of the thermal contour of the building, and its “pie” should help ensure and maintain the “thermos effect”.

The wall is made of the same material as in the rest of the house. But if additional insulation, for example, for a wall made of laminated timber or laminated timber it is usually not required, then in the vestibule area experts recommend installing a layer of thermal insulation from foam plastic, perlite or mineral wool slabs (basalt or glass wool - read more about seamless insulation). For the latter, film vapor barrier with inside and waterproofing from the outside. From the outside, a reinforcing mesh is strengthened onto the heat-insulating layer and then covered with finishing paint or plaster.

The attached vestibule can also be made using technology winter garden: frame made of aluminum or plastic profile with double glazing. The main thing is to ensure reliable docking profile design with the main wall. To do this, make an expansion joint: leave a gap 20-50 mm thick, fill it with fibrous insulation (tow or mineral wool, but not polyurethane foam) and are protected with façade sealant or waterproofing tape. The same seam must be made at the junction of the cottage foundations and entrance vestibule to prevent cracks from appearing over time. But the roof of the extension cannot be joined in this way. To cover an attached vestibule, it is better to perform an independent truss structure, and close the joint from above with a cornice strip.

Also in the vestibule you need special attention Make sure there are no cracks: around the perimeter of the doors, along the baseboards and in the corners. It is better to fill large holes with mineral wool, but you can also fill them with polyurethane foam, and small cracks can be filled with tow, sealed with insulating tape, or simply “closed” with silicone sealant.

Particular attention should be paid to doors.

The outer one should be made of solid wood or metal frame with internal insulation. Perfect as a second one balcony door with a double-sided handle, glazing and complete sealing of the opening due to two sealing contours. You can also install a simple one, even made of wood or plastic, you just need to line it around the perimeter with a rubber seal.

Which vestibule to build – heated or not?

The question of the necessity and possibility of heating the vestibule raises a lot of controversy. Some experts strongly recommend installing the circuit of the general heating system here to avoid the appearance of frost on the doors or ceiling of the room in winter. In addition, according to them, the vestibule can become so cold in cold weather that it ceases to act as a temperature buffer.

However, according to building regulations, heating appliances should not be placed in rooms that have external doors to avoid freezing of the coolant. And most designers do not recommend connecting the vestibule to traditional systems heating: this leads to unnecessary, completely unnecessary energy costs. The very essence of the vestibule, why it is needed in the first place, is to be a buffer, a mixing zone of cold and warm air.

It is permissible to install two heating devices here. Firstly, it is a cable heated floor. It will not harm the main function of the vestibule, will provide a more comfortable change from street shoes to house slippers, and will speed up the melting of snow, which often accumulates on the soles. Air will also benefit thermal curtain, that is, several fan heaters installed above the doorway, with a flat, clearly directed air flow. It will be enough to install a curtain of low power (i.5~5 kW) so that a wall of warm air along the opening completely cuts off the cold air from the residential area. In this case, the vestibule will be used only for changing shoes and accumulating street dirt.

Ergonomics of the territory

Tambours are quite often used as storage rooms and stored here old shoes, household equipment, small Construction Materials. Thus, they clutter up the space and increase the area of ​​surfaces that collect dust. In a small vestibule, it is advisable to arrange only shelves for shoes, as well as hooks and shelves for keys and other accessories. You can also hang a mirror on the wall. In the more spacious vestibule, after a walk, a baby stroller and sled are left.

If the depth allows, then you can equip a built-in closet (for example, a wardrobe) and store skis, balls and other sports equipment inside it. A mezzanine is made for the same purpose. And at the same time, due to it, the ceiling level is reduced so that there is no feeling of a well in the vestibule. Boxes from purchased equipment are stored in these same furniture elements, which should not be thrown away during the warranty period, etc. But the most frequently worn outerwear and hats should be stored in the wardrobe or hallway.

It is convenient when a door to the adjacent garage is built into the side wall of a spacious vestibule. Finally, internal and external doors are positioned both along the same axis, perpendicular to the facade, and at an angle of 90° to each other. The second option reduces airflow, but is less convenient as it makes it difficult to carry furniture.

Leave dirt in the extension

The entire history of a person’s movements during the day remains on the sole of the shoe: in the form of dust, small pebbles, snow, ice, etc. In a word, dirt. All of it remains with the shoes in the vestibule, but gradually accumulates and, sooner or later, ends up in the house. To prevent this, rag or rubberized mats are most often used, but they quickly become dirty, and the former also get wet. As a result, such coatings not only do not retain dirt, but also “return” it to the soles.

So it is better to use special dirt protection systems. For example, grilles made of aluminum or hard rubber, as well as combined products (they have metal strips alternating with rubber inserts). The cells in the grid should be square or diamond-shaped and of such a size that clods of dirt are collected and are not a trap for women's heels. The entire area of ​​the vestibule should not be covered with grating. But to ensure complete collection of dirt, its width should be equal to the doorway (or better, 10-20 cm wider than it). The thickness of the grate is assumed to be 1o-16 mm - this allows you to collect up to 7-10 kg of dirt and clean it less often. At the same time, dirt can be collected using a grate on the outside area near the door, then a canopy should be strengthened over the entrance to protect it from precipitation.

Read also:

Features of the final finishing of the vestibule

A vestibule is a room with constant changes in temperature and humidity. Materials that can be used for walls and ceilings should be wet cleaning. For example, you can use facade paint, plaster or plastic panels. But gypsum and other types of materials intended for indoor use are not suitable - coatings made from them may crack.

For visual increase spaces are chosen light colors finishing. Finally, a wear-resistant material is laid on the floor. ceramic tiles, natural or fake diamond or linoleum. They not only resist abrasion, but are also easy to clean.

Location and layout of the vestibule (schematic drawing)

1. Traditional small vestibule with wardrobe
2. Tambour, which also serves as a hall with stairs
3. An unusual planning solution allows for efficient use of space
4. The entrance is recessed into the façade of the house, which provides even better protection from the cold. There is an exit from the vestibule to the garage
5. The entrance to the house is made on the same level as the facade. A door leads from the vestibule to the laundry room
6. Part of the vestibule having complex shape, reserved for a small dressing room

Additionally to the article:

1. Most often, the vestibule is built from the same material as the house.
2. A translucent structure, for example made of glass, can also serve as a vestibule.
3. In small old houses, for example in adobe, they often did summer kitchen- essentially the same vestibule, insulating the residential part of the house from the cold.
4. The construction of a vestibule in the main volume of the house, with reasonable planning, can help in zoning the space
5. If the vestibule is small, then the door should be installed so that it opens to the street.
6. It is better to heat the vestibule autonomously - using a “warm floor” system or a fan heater installed above the external door.
7. The vestibule, lowered 2-3 steps below the level of living quarters, better retains the cold.
8. Fencing off a small hallway by turning it into a vestibule is easy and inexpensive, and the resulting buffer will allow you to save on heating costs.
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A vestibule is a room that separates the atmosphere of your home from the outside. The vestibule solves two problems (1) thermal insulation of the house in the area of ​​the front door and (2) cutting off cold (and hot in summer) air when opening the front door. Both of these tasks are very important, especially in our region, where the external temperature often differs from the internal temperature by tens of degrees.

People who have not lived in a private house in winter often underestimate the role of the vestibule and try to combine it with the hallway. Living in the countryside in the summer and in city apartments with entrances in the winter does not give them an intuitive understanding of the need for a vestibule and they often abandon it, replacing it with a hallway, staircase hall, etc.

The error appears in winter, when no amount of heating or heaters can stop the cold and draft from the front door, and with each opening of it the whole warm air instantly disappears, and in the farthest bedroom you immediately feel that someone has entered from the street.

Warm vestibule - warm home

We insulate the front door

In a house made of SIP panels, the thermal resistance of the wall exceeds 3.5 sq.m*degrees/watt - this is excellent thermal protection that complies with European standards, but the door usually has a thermal resistance of 0.3-0.7 units, i.e. through 2 square meters of the front door the same amount of heat escapes as through 7-20 square meters of wall. Even more heat escapes through the cracks when the door does not fit tightly.

First of all, you need to remove the draft so that not at any point There was no free air movement at the door junction. Even small microcirculation can lead to heat loss. The tightness of the door needs to be checked sometimes, because... In winter, materials often lose their elasticity.

When choosing a door, you need to find out how it is insulated from the inside; it is not for nothing that the older generation lined the doors with cotton wool and leatherette.

The vestibule is too small - you will have to open both doors at the same time

Cutting off the air

Even a sealed, insulated door doesn't help keep the warm air in when we enter the house. Almost instantly the room air is replaced with air external environment. Fortunately, the heat capacity of air is very low, because... air weighs very little. Let's take a simple example: a vestibule measuring 2x3 meters, 2.8 m high, has a volume of about 17 cubic meters. If all the air with a temperature of 20 degrees is replaced with air of 0 degrees, we will lose as much heat as 2 square meters of 12 mm thick OSB contains. If we close the door, then after a few minutes the air will be heated again by the surrounding objects.

If the door from the vestibule to the house is open, we will cool not 17, but all 300 cubic meters of air, and to heat them up again, we will need to spend more time and money.

conclusions

• In the house for permanent residence in most regions of Russia there should be a vestibule.
• The vestibule must have two doors.
• The entrance door of the vestibule must be insulated and have no cracks.
• The vestibule should be large enough so that when entering and leaving the house you do not need to open both doors at the same time.
• The vestibule should not be too large so as not to lose a lot of warm air when opening the door.
• The vestibule does not have to be heated if you want to reduce heating costs.
• In the vestibule you can take off wet, dirty and cold clothes, but a separate hallway is required for undressing.
• If a vestibule is not provided, you can try glazing the porch. If this does not work, you need to separate the cold hallway from the rest of the rooms with a door.

The presence of an entrance gateway not only helps reduce heat loss, but also contributes to better organization of the residents’ lives. Our review will explain to readers the need to build a vestibule and tell us what this extension should be like for correct execution their functions.

What problems does the vestibule solve?

It is impossible to briefly list the variety of architectural solutions that modern developers are adopting. Shape of the house, height of the base, appearance facade and appearance entrance group They are very diverse, but most opinions agree on one thing - there is always a place for a vestibule.

The most obvious excuse for building an entrance gateway is to isolate the internal climate of a home from the street. If there is a vestibule, the living quarters will always be separated from the weather by at least one door; accordingly, heat loss due to air exchange will be limited to the volume of the entrance room. Equally important, the gateway completely eliminates the appearance of drafts that cause serious discomfort to residents located in the immediate vicinity of the entrance.

There are also more practical points. The category of people who settles in the a private house, while observing the “apartment” way of life. On personal plot Almost always there is housekeeping, therefore there are home clothes and shoes. But snow, dirt and foreign odors have no place in the house; it is better to remove such things before entering the habitable area, for which the vestibule is best suited.

Actually, the presence of a vestibule in a private house is not strictly necessary; the absence of an entrance gateway can be compensated for by the layout of the hallway and additional dressing room. However, for greater objectivity, we list the secondary advantages that the vestibule provides:

• cool area for storing vegetables and other food products;
• a place where you can leave a stroller, bicycle or sled, and wash your dog’s paws after a walk;
• protecting the porch or stairs from ice;
• protection of the metal entrance door from freezing.

Foundation, porch and walls

Let us note right away that vestibules can be classified as warm and cold, and the presence of heating does not play a role in this classification. We are talking about the location of the vestibule relative to the building plan: it can be located inside the thermal contour of the house, or partially or completely outside it. The first case is quite trivial from a construction point of view, because today even amateurs can divide internal rooms with partitions. Therefore, in the future we will focus on the construction of the attached vestibule.

Attaching a vestibule to a building is not an entirely simple task; the reason for this is the uneven settlement of the soil, which has already settled under the house, and will still settle within a few centimeters under the vestibule. Therefore, the foundation for the vestibule must be closed or, at least, connected by a lintel of a smaller cross-section, and also separated from the base of the house by a deformation shrink seam from XPS. In general, for the construction of a vestibule, a shallow strip foundation (MSLF) with an insulated blind area is recommended, the distance from the edge of which to the supporting edge of the foundation is obviously greater than the freezing depth in a particular region. Under the tape, be sure to place a backfill of sand and gravel, compacted in layers.

It is desirable that the blind area on the side of the front door has a raised area about 100-120 cm wide and about 80 cm deep. The height of the porch should be at least 100 cm lower than the tape; it is recommended to fill this part monolithically with the foundation, having previously tied the reinforcement of both parts between themselves. Construction of walls can begin 10-14 days after completion concrete works. The wall material can be absolutely anything - from cinder block to wooden frame and sandwich panels. However, it is recommended to start building walls with a small parapet about 40 cm high, made of warm masonry material, for example aerated concrete block. Like the foundation, the walls of the extension must have a damping joint where they adjoin the house. Mechanical connection allowed frame walls with capital enclosing structures.

Selecting the degree of glazing

For an attached vestibule, it is highly desirable to glaze about 20-25% of the wall area, but this is not always advisable. The benefits of glazing will be obvious only with sufficiently high-quality insolation, for example, if the vestibule is located on the south side of the house, on the southeast or southwest corners.

The degree of glazing has no restrictions only if heating is not planned in the vestibule. Currently, glazing systems based on aluminum and PVC are extremely popular. IN summer time the glazed vestibule will be like a steam room, where it is unbearably hot, but in winter there is high thermal conductivity glass walls will not allow you to retain heat.

On the other hand, the complete absence of windows in the vestibule is also not desirable. Even a minimum of natural light will make using the extension much more convenient. One will be enough narrow window about a meter high with one swing-out door. Naturally, the window should be placed on the most illuminated side of the vestibule.

An example of a vestibule made entirely of translucent materials. It protects from bad weather and looks very impressive, but is not able to retain heat.

Roof and connection to the façade

Regardless of the roof configuration, it is recommended to bring the walls into a common plane so that the ends form an almost finished mauerlat. It is enough to fix it on the walls using a massive beam of about 100x150 mm, after which you can begin installation rafter system, the type of which determines the shape of the vestibule roof.

The simplest and least expensive option would be pitched roof, based on several inclined trusses. It is desirable that the slope from the roof of the vestibule is not directed towards the entrance door, while the release of the sheathing will allow the formation of a sufficiently wide soffit that can replace the canopy over the porch. The main benefit of this design is the simplest method of pairing roofing With façade wall. It is enough to make a slot in the stone with a disk and insert the side of the Z-shaped strip into it, sealing the junction with silicone sealant.

A slightly more complex type of roof would be a half-hip or gable roof with a small gable. In this case, the junction with the wall of the house will be formed by two inclined sections. These connections, as in the case of pitched roof, are made with Z-shaped strips that overlap the full width in the ridge area, overlapping each other. Under the overlap of the planks adjacent to the wall, you should generously blow silicone or bitumen sealant, and then press the connection with hardware. An additional complexity when constructing such a roof appears when installing the ridge: in order to mask the overlap of the abutment strips, it may be necessary to manufacture a special cutting element - a ridge cap with an external flap.

Is insulation and heating necessary?

The main function of the vestibule is to form a protective zone in which the air is still, thereby reducing the outflow of heat from the front door. Thus, a small extension protects the door well from freezing, although the temperature inside is only a few degrees higher than outside. However, the vestibule can also be used for more practical purposes.

A typical example is when it is necessary to dress a child: if you do this in a heated room, then at least one person will be dressed warmly and will definitely overheat. Many such actions are easier to carry out in a cool vestibule, which, even with minimal insulation, will not release the heat that penetrates from the house along with heated air through the open door.

It is not difficult to insulate a vestibule: for frame walls, insulation is provided in the cells between the posts; a stone extension can be safely insulated from the inside with materials with a reflective surface. In this case, there should be no main heating in the vestibule: removing even several sections of the radiator will significantly cool the coolant.

At all ideal option You can call the organization of a cold and warm zone in the vestibule along the floor. The latter is a small piece of heating cable laid in the floor in one of the internal corners. In this place you can keep outdoor shoes, which, due to heating, will dry well overnight. And in the opposite corner a cold zone is formed for cooling cooked food and storing vegetables.

Installation of entrance and internal doors

It remains to deal with the last nuance - how to correctly place the internal and outer door. It all depends on whether any valuable property will be stored in the vestibule. If so, then the external door must be strong steel, that is, access to the house is fenced off at the entrance to the vestibule itself. In this case, the front door is not subject to freezing and ice formation, but the inside door must be insulated.

If there is nothing valuable in the vestibule, then the main door can be placed inside, making access to the annex practically unlimited or with the installation of the simplest English lock. Please note that a distance of 2-2.5 steps must be maintained between two doors so that in cold weather they are guaranteed not to be open at the same time. IN optimal option both doors should open into the vestibule.