Sharpening a knife is a task that every man has to face from time to time. In almost every home now you can find the familiar sanding block. However, this simple tool is not the only (and not the most convenient) way of sharpening for kitchen knives.
If you don't want to buy professional tool- if you wish, you can make a simple but more effective sharpening machine yourself.
1 About the design of knife sharpening machines
The main nuance that distinguishes a professional tool from a regular whetstone is more precise work with the sharpening angle. It is the angle at which it is sharpened cutting edge, and is the main requirement that affects the sharpness of the blade. If you correctly calculate and achieve this angle, even a homemade sharpening machine will allow you to sharpen knives to razor sharpness.
Manual desktop instrument this type looks something like this:
Support part. “Sole”, which is firmly attached to the table, and on which other elements of the machine are located.
Place for attaching a knife.Made in the form of a clamp.
Movable rack with attached sanding block. The stroke of the bar must be limited so that the movement occurs in one plane, sharpening the knife at the desired angle.
A mechanism for adjusting the angle at which the block can move.
Such devices (with fixation of blades of knives or scissors) are more convenient. You can apply more force in them, since it is more convenient to move the block than the knife.
Some machines are designed the other way around - they do not hold a knife, but a sharpening stone, the angle of which can (or cannot) be changed. Such models are simpler in design, and essentially differ from a regular sharpening stone lying on the table only in the ability to accurately adjust and hold desired angle tilt
Such installations are suitable not only for knives - they can also be used to sharpen straight scissors.
1.1 Brief overview of models
Before you figure out how to createDIY knife sharpening machine -Let's look at what models you can buy:
- Lansky. Costs about 6 5-80 $. Has a clamp for knives (scissors), the bar is movable. Angle adjustment - from 17° up to 30 ° .
- SpitJack. Costs about $40.
- Aligner AKEFC. Costs about $90.
- Ganzo Touch Pro. Costs about 90-100 $.
- Apex 4 Kit Edge. Costs about 200-220 $. Suitable not only for kitchen knives and scissors, but also for hunting knives.
- Ruixin ( Korean copies of the above Apex). They cost about 30-40 $.
In addition to the listed models, there is a considerable selection of other similar installations. The approximate price range of mid-level sharpening machines is around $30.
Chief's Choice knife sharpening machine
You can also find more convenient (but also more expensive) electric sharpening devices. These include compact devices Chief's Choice (models 312, 320, CH-310, 1520). They cost from 120 to 250-300 $, and allow sharpening at an angle of 20°. The power consumption of the units is up to 150 W. Such an electric sharpening machine for flat knives is used mainly in the restaurant business... Naturally, such models are not suitable for other products (scissors, hunting knives, etc.).
Except electric models, Chief's Choice has similar mechanical devices. They are a sharpening stone installed at a given angle in the body. The user just needs to move the knife through a special slot - and that’s it. Similar models They are cheaper than electric ones (about $40-50) and are also used mainly in the restaurant business, for kitchen knives.
2 Basic information for creating a homemade machine
Do it right electric machine- not a task for an amateur. But to make a tabletop manual option- is quite real.
There are many options for creating it, so we will consider only a few of them.
The most important requirement for the machine being created will be the selected angle - this directly determines how sharp the cutting edge will be and how long it will last.
The thinner it is (i.e., the smaller the sharpening angle), the sharper the knife will be, but also the less it will last. In addition, it is not recommended to cut hard products with a knife sharpened too sharply (at an angle of less than 15-20º: it will become dull faster).
Specific figures include:
sharpening angle of knives (kitchen, hunting) - 15-30º (or better - 20-30º);
The sharpening angle of scissors (hard) is about 50º.
2.1 First method
First, let's look at the simplest option.
To create the machine we need:
2 wooden corners (optimal length sides - 20-30 cm).
6-8 screws with clamping nuts.
Sharpening stone.
Trance Portir to set the angle correctly.
The design is done like this:
3-4 holes are drilled in both corners -so as to fasten them together.
The block is installed between the corners at the desired angle.
The corners are tightened with screws, securing the block in the desired position.
For sharpening knives (kitchen, hunting - it doesn’t matter) or scissorsyou just need to slide the blade down along the block. The blade must be strictly vertical.
If necessary, marks with corners can be applied to the corners. To change the angle (or to replace the bar), you just need to loosen the screws that tighten the corners and move the bar. After which the screws are tightened again.
This device is good because it allows you to change the angle. Among its disadvantages, we can note the fact that it is, in fact, not much more convenient than working with a conventional sharpening stone.
2.2 Option two
Now let’s complicate the task: we will make a sharpening machine that is more convenient to use.
For this you will need:
A piece of laminate (chipboard, plywood).
Wooden slats (length - approx. 1 meter thickness and height - approx. 2 -4 cm), or two slats - one 50-70 cm long, the second up to 40.
Sandpaper.
2 bolts with tightening nuts.
Wood saw.
Protractor.
Marker (pencil, pen, felt-tip pen - any marking tool).
The process itself looks like this:
Now - need to make a stand, which will allow you to drive the block at the same angle. For this:
Now it remains make a sandpaper holder(which will be used instead of a sharpening stone). To do this you need:
Take the second rail and place it on the U-shaped stand and knife holder.
Cut off the required part (the one that goes from the holder to the stand, +5-10 cm of margin).
On one edge we glue sandpaper.
The optimal abrasive is from P600 to P2000.
AND The disadvantages of this design can be noted:
inability to adjust the angle: the product allows you to work only at one angle, chosen initially (this is not a disadvantage if the machine needs to be made for the kitchen);
To use sandpaper of different abrasives, you will have to make a separate strip for each.
As an option, in order not to make several slats, you can stick 4 pieces of sandpaper with different abrasives onto one slatted surface.
When working (sharpening), such a machine is placed on the edge of the table. The bolts protruding from below will rest against it, due to which the machine will stand in one place when the rack with sandpaper moves.
2.3 How to make a homemade knife sharpening machine? (video)
2.4 How to sharpen?
H so as not to spoilknife sharpening machine must be used correctly:
The movements of the knife along the block should be smooth, without jerking, and not very fast.
The pressure on the blade should be even. The pressure force is selected individually.
The blade must be sharpened evenly along its entire length.
If necessary, you need to cool the knife by lowering it into water.
After completing sharpening, it is advisable to sand the blade with sandpaper up to 800 grit.
To check the quality of sharpening, you can place a sheet of paper on a suitable surface (for example, a cutting board) and run a knife along it. A well-sharpened blade will cut paper. If sharpened poorly, the sheet will wrinkle or tear.
The introduction of the Edge Pro sharpening machines was, without exaggeration, a revolution. The prices are really high, but no one is stopping you from copying the principle and creating a similar device yourself. We offer design simple machine for sharpening knives, chisels and any other blades that you can make with your own hands.
Machine base
Most parts for a sharpening machine can be made from literally anything, following general principle devices. As an example, let's take laminated or polished box plywood 8-12 mm thick, which was widely used in the manufacture of Soviet radio equipment housings.
The base must be heavy - about 3.5-5 kg - otherwise the machine will be unstable and unsuitable for sharpening heavy chopping tools. Therefore, the inclusion of steel elements in the design is welcome, for example, the base of the case can be “forged” with a 20x20 mm angle.
From plywood you need to cut out two parts in the shape of a rectangular trapezoid with a jigsaw with bases of 170 and 60 mm and a height of 230 mm. When cutting, leave an allowance of 0.5-0.7 mm for processing the ends: they must be straight and exactly match the markings.
Third detail - inclined plane made of plywood boards measuring 230x150 mm. It is installed between the inclined sides of the side walls, while the trapezium of the side walls rests on the rectangular side.
In other words, the base of the machine is a kind of wedge, but the inclined plane should protrude 40 mm from the front. At the ends of the side walls, use a surface planer to mark two lines with an indent of half the thickness of the plywood. Drill three holes in each board to fasten the parts with screws. Transfer the drill bit to the ends of the inclined part and temporarily connect the base parts.
At the rear, the side walls are connected by a 60x60 mm block, which is secured to the end with two screws on each side. You need to make a 10 mm vertical hole in the block with an indentation of 50 mm from the center, that is, 25 mm from the edge. To be sure of verticality, it is better to first drill with a thin drill on both sides and then expand. Screw two fittings into the hole from the top and bottom with internal thread M10, and in them - a 10 mm pin with a length of 250 mm. Here you may need to slightly adjust the bottom fitting if its threads do not line up with the stud.
Tool support device
Remove the flat inclined part from the base - it needs to be modified by equipping it with a device for fixing and pressing the tool being processed.
First, set aside 40 mm from the front edge and along this line, use a matching hacksaw to file a groove about 2 mm deep. Using a sectioning knife or a shoemaker's knife, chop off the two top layers of veneer from the end of the board to form a recess into which you can insert a 2 mm steel plate flush with the common plane.
The handrail consists of two steel strips 170x60 mm and 150x40 mm. They need to be folded together along the long end with uniform indentations along the edges and three 6 mm through holes must be made. The strips along these holes need to be tightened with bolts, placing the caps on the side of the upper, larger plate. Arc welding bake each cap, welding it to the plate, then remove the beads of metal and grind the plate until a perfectly flat plane is obtained.
Attach the narrower striker plate to the notch on the edge and transfer the holes with a drill, then secure the rest with bolts. It can also be magnetized before installation DC, this will help in sharpening small blades.
Locking mechanism
The second part of the tool rest is the clamping bar. It is also made of two parts:
- The upper L-shaped bar is 150x180 mm with a shelf width of about 45-50 mm.
- Bottom striker rectangular shape 50x100 mm.
The parts need to be folded in the same way as the parts of the tool rest were folded, placing the counter plate at the far edge of the upper clamping area. We make two holes in the center with a distance of 25 mm from the edges of the small part, and through them we tighten the parts with two 8 mm bolts. They need to be wound in opposite directions, with the head of the upper (near) bolt located on the side of the clamping bar. The bolt heads are also welded to the plates and pre-ground to obtain neat roundings.
On an inclined board with an indentation of 40 mm from the edge, draw a line with a thickness planer and make one 8 mm hole 25 mm from the top and bottom edges. Connect the edges of the holes with markings and use a jigsaw to make a cut with an allowance. Finish the resulting groove with a file to a width of 8.2-8.5 mm.
Fasten the clamping and strike strips through the groove in the board. Tighten the bolt protruding from above with a nut so that the bar maintains minimal movement, then secure the connection with a second nut. To press or release the strip from below (in the niche of the base), screw a wing nut onto the second bolt.
Adjusting the sharpening angle
Throw a wide washer onto the pin screwed into the base bar and tighten the nut so that the rod does not rotate in the fittings.
The adjusting block must be made from a small block hard material dimensions approximately 20x40x80 mm. Take carbolite, textolite or hardwood.
15 mm from the edge of the block, we drill a 20 mm end on both sides, the hole expands to 9 mm, then we cut a thread inside. A second hole is drilled at a distance of 50 mm from the axis of the hole made, but in the flat part of the part, that is, perpendicular to the previous one. This hole should have a diameter of about 14 mm, in addition, it needs to be flared strongly with a round rasp.
The block is screwed onto a pin, so it is possible to relatively accurately adjust the height of the eye without complex system screw clamps as in the original machine, which in practice is a little more difficult to implement. In order for the block to remain stationary during operation, it must be secured on both sides with M10 wing nuts.
Carriage and replacement bars
For the sharpening carriage, you will need to coaxially weld 30 cm sections of an M10 pin and a smooth, even rod 10 mm thick. You also need two solid blocks measuring approximately 50x80 mm and up to 20 mm thick. A 10 mm hole should be made in each bar in the center and at a distance of 20 mm from the top edge.
First, a wing nut is screwed onto the rod, then a wide washer and two bars, again a washer and a nut. You can clamp rectangular sharpening stones between the whetstones, but it is better to make several replacement sharpening stones.
As a basis for them, take a light aluminum profile with a flat part 40-50 mm wide. This can be a profile rectangular pipe or sections of an old cornice profile.
We sand and degrease the flat part, and “Moment” glue strips of sandpaper of different grain sizes from 400 to 1200 grit onto it. Choose a cloth-based sandpaper, and glue a strip of suede leather onto one of the bars for straightening the blades with abrasive paste.
How to sharpen correctly
For correct sharpening make several templates from plywood with angles of 14-20º for cutting edges and 30-37º for chopping edges, exact angle depends on the steel grade. Fix the blade parallel to the edge of the tool rest and press it with a bar. Using the template, adjust the angle between the planes of the sharpening block and the inclined board of the table.
Start sharpening with a large (P400) whetstone if the edge does not have correct angle. Make sure that the descent strip takes the form of a straight strip without bends or waves. Reduce the grit and go along both sides of the blade first with a P800 stone, and then with a P1000 or P1200 stone. When sharpening the blade, apply the whetstone with slight force in both directions.
After sharpening, the blade must be corrected with a “leather” block, on which no a large number of GOI pastes. When editing blades, the working movement is directed only towards the edge (towards you), but not against it. And, finally, a little advice: if you sharpen knives with polished blades and engraving, glue them masking tape so that the crumbling abrasive does not leave scratches. It also wouldn’t hurt to cover the surface of the tool rest with vinyl self-adhesive.
Currently, there are several types: a machine for sharpening knives, a machine for a hairdressing machine, and others. This article talks about how to make a machine for sharpening knives at home: detailed drawings with dimensions, photos and videos (2-3 videos) are presented.
Often, when sharpening knives at home, household members use abrasive whetstones. However, in order to use them in practice, you need the necessary skills and experience working with them. After all, if the knife is sharpened at the wrong angle, the blade remains dull.
Layout of the block to the blade.
Before actually manufacturing the machine, you need to listen to the advice of sharpeners.
When sharpening a knife, the master performs the following actions:
Defines the angle between the working area of the blade and the block. Moreover, for each model the angles are different;
The knife is located at an angle of 90 degrees to the direction of the block. The grooves that are formed when the razor blade of the knife rubs against the block should be at 90 degrees to the knife line. Angle in similar situation equal to half the sharpening;
Typically the angle is 25 degrees;
The mechanic begins processing from the beginning of the foot blade;
When adjusting the sharpening angle, the master paints over part of the foot blade with any marker. As a result, the mechanic directly controls the work area.
As a rule, after sharpening the working blade has non-uniform deformations. Therefore, when self-processing The “point of reference” should not be the sharp part of the knife.
Choosing whetstones for sharpening a knife
The main indicator of a block is its grain size.
The whetstone is the main component that makes the blade thin and sharp. As a result, before choosing a design, you need to select the necessary blocks.
At self-sharpening knives, the household uses these types of whetstones
which have a high grain size. Using such bars, the shape of the leg blade is corrected.
having medium grain size. With the help of such bars, the mechanic removes the grooves that are formed during the initial processing of the knife
whetstone, which is covered with GOM paste. In such a situation, the mechanic polishes the blade.
When processing knives for the kitchen, you can use two types - with medium and high grain. And also in this case it is necessary to use a touchstone.
Base
During production sharpening machine You can use various parts at home. In particular, you can use laminated box plywood 12 mm thick, which was previously used to create radio equipment housings.
When constructing a machine at home, a household member performs the following actions:
Selects a base for such an installation, which must weigh at least 5 kg. Otherwise, it will be impossible to sharpen chopping devices and tools on the machine. Therefore, in the manufacture of such equipment, the tenant uses various steel angles measuring 20x20 mm;
Next, 2 parts are cut out of plywood with a jigsaw, which have a trapezoidal shape, the base is 170 by 60 mm, and the height is 230 mm. When cutting, the mechanic makes an allowance of 0.7 mm for sharpening the ends: they end up straight and fit according to the markings;
Installs 3 parts between the inclined walls on the sides - an inclined surface made of plywood with dimensions of 230 x 150 mm.
In such a situation, the trapezoidal sides are located laterally on a rectangular surface.
The result is a base - a wedge. In such a situation, a protrusion of an inclined surface measuring 40 mm is formed in the front part;
Then, along the side wall ends, the mechanic marks 2 lines with a thicknesser. At the same time, it retreats by half the thickness of the plywood;
Drills the ends of the inclined surface and connects the base parts for a while;
At the back of the structure, the mechanic connects the side walls using a 60x60 mm block, which is attached to the end with two screws on both sides; - makes a 10 mm gap in the block.
In such a situation, it retreats 50 mm from the center - 25 mm from the edge. To maintain a vertical position, first drill with a thin drill from 2 edges, and then expand;
Then, at the top and bottom, two threaded fittings are screwed into the slot, and in the fittings - a 10 mm pin, the length of which is 250 mm.
If the threads do not match the studs, the lower fitting is adjusted.
Tool support device
When making a handhold device, the following steps are performed:
Removes the flat inclined part from the base, modifies it and installs a fixation device on it, as well as the clamp of the device used;
Measures 40 mm from the edge in front and at this mark, using a garden hacksaw, cuts out a groove, the depth of which is 2 mm;
Using a shoemaker's knife, chip off the top 2 veneer layers from the end of the board. The result is a sample into which the mechanic inserts a 2 mm steel plate at the same level as the general surface;
The tool rest consists of 2 steel strips measuring 170x60 mm and 150x40 mm. The machine operator connects them along the large end, which has equal edge indentations, and makes 3 through slots of 6 mm.
Using bolts, tighten the planks along the cracks made. In such a situation, the machine operator leaves the bolt heads on the side of the large top plate;
Then he removes metal defects of the weld in the form of beads and grinds the plate to give it a smooth surface;
Applies a small striker plate to the edge recess, moves the slots with a drill and secures the support with bolts.
Fixation device
Second important detail The tool rest is considered to be a clamping bar. It can be made from 2 parts.
L-shaped plank measuring 150x180 mm, the width of the shelves is 50 mm (top);
A rectangle-shaped strike plate measuring 50x100 mm (bottom).
When making a clamping bar, the machine operator performs the following actions:
Places the bottom bar on the far edge of the top bar;
Makes 2 holes in the center and retreats 25 mm from the edges of the part, connects the parts through the holes with two 8 mm bolts;
Screws in 8 mm bolts on 2 sides. In such a situation, the head of the nearest bolt is located near the top bar;
Welds the bolt heads to the plates and grinds them in advance until roundness is formed;
Yes, the inclined board retreats 40 mm from the edge and draws a line with a thicknesser;
Makes one 8 mm 25 mm gap at the bottom and top edges;
Using markings, he connects the edges of the slots and uses a jigsaw to make a cut with an allowance. Use a file to expand the groove to a width of 8.5 mm;
It fastens the planks using a groove that is in the board; the top bolt is tightened with a nut and thus firmly fastens the plank.
Then tightens connection 2 with nut;
When pressing the bottom bar (in the niche of the base), screw a wing nut onto the second bolt.
Sharpening angle control
When adjusting the sharpening angle, the mechanic performs the following actions:
Throw a large washer onto the pin, which is located in the block of the machine base, and tighten the nut.
The rod does not rotate in the foot; the block for adjusting the sharpening angle is made from a small carbolite block, the dimensions of which are 20x40x80 mm.
15 mm from the block edge, drill a 20 mm end on both sides, widen the gap to 9 mm, then make a thread inside;
He steps back 50 mm from the axis of the new slot and drills another one in the flat part of the workpiece - 90 degrees to the previous one. Such a slot has a diameter of 14 mm. In such a situation, the mechanic strongly flares the hole using a round rasp;
Screws the block onto the pin - installs the desired height lugs without the use of fixing screws;
Secures the block on both sides with M10 hex nuts.
Using replaceable blocks and making a carriage
When making a sharpening carriage, the machine operator performs the following actions:
Welds 30 cm M10 threaded rods with a smooth rod whose thickness is 10 mm;
Uses 2 solid bars 50x80 mm and the thickness is 20 mm. In all blocks, in the center and on top, 20 mm is retreated from the edge, and then a gap is made 10 mm wide;
Screws a wing nut onto the rod, then a large washer and 2 bars, then a nut and washer;
Clamps rectangular sharpening stones between the stones or makes several replaceable sharpening stones.
As a timber base, the machine operator uses a rectangular tube from a profile or a piece of cornice, the width of which is 50 mm;
He sands the flat machine part and cleans it of grease, and glues strips of sandpaper with a grain size of up to 1200 grit using Super Moment glue.
The sandpaper should have a fabric base, and on 1 of the blocks you need to glue a strip of suede to apply polish to the blades.
Simple homemade machine
The most common type of machine design is considered to be 2 pairs of wooden slats, which are fastened together with screws. The machine operator installs a block between such parts.
The main reason for the popularity of usemanual homemade machine for sharpening various knives is its stability. During operation, the machine structure does not move in any way on the workbench.
When fixing the block, the mechanic uses support strips that are located between the wooden elements.
However, such homemade machine has the following disadvantages:
The master positions the blade to the stone manually. When working for a long time, it is difficult to keep track of the sharpening angle;
When making such an installation, it is necessary to use a fixing unit. The machine structure must be stable, so it must be firmly mounted on the workbench;
During the work, the ties loosen and the location of the block changes.
Another advantage of such a scheme is ease of manufacture. This machine design is most often used when sharpening knives for jointers and for the kitchen.
Wood slats can be of different thicknesses. At self-production For a simple sharpening machine, you can use various available components.
When first studying all the nuances of manufacturing, you need to watch thematic videos that describe in detail how to make a machine at home.
The problem of dull knives is familiar firsthand to many owners who are forced to constantly hand over kitchen utensils to craftsmen for sharpening. Meanwhile, solving it is much easier than it seems, because you can make a knife sharpener with your own hands, using the available tools. This will save money on the purchase of a ready-made device or the services of professional workshops.
All about knife sharpeners
The easiest way to help owners get rid of the hassle associated with handing over knives to workshops is to purchase a sharpening stone. However, this option can only become optimal if it is possible to select a timber with the “correct” abrasiveness. To do this, you need to familiarize yourself with the main characteristics of the selected materials.
Choosing a quality stone
Sharpening stones, more often referred to as stones, have their own classification, familiarization with which will help you choose the most suitable material. And if the owner manages to avoid the most common mistakes, then it can be used in the future as in independent form, and as the main component of a homemade sharpening machine. So, The following gradations of grain size are distinguished:
One more distinctive feature sharpening stones is their color, because the darker the shade of the selected stone, the greater the level of abrasiveness it will have and vice versa, bright hues indicate the fine grain of the coating and its domestic purpose. It is worth noting that the performance of sharpening done with your own hands directly depends on the choice of this element.
It is recommended to pay attention to the quality of the selected material, each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages. So, they distinguish timber natural origin from slate and corundum rocks, as well as stone for turning diamond and ceramic types. Among the disadvantages of the first option, it is worth highlighting the high grain size and rapid wear due to the need to constantly wet the surface of the stone to form a special composition that automatically increases the abrasive qualities of the device.
That is why it is better to leave your choice to artificial stone for sharpening, the length of which will exceed the length of the cutter blade, which greatly facilitates the processing procedure. In addition, you can choose a beam whose ribs will have varying degrees of abrasiveness, which will allow you to carry out the procedure for basic and final sharpening at home.
There are several types of manual DIY knife sharpeners with different designs and the degree of difficulty in manufacturing. Naturally than easier arrangement such home appliances, the less comfortable it will be to use at home and vice versa, a large number of components allows you to create very convenient models of sharpeners that greatly facilitate the process of sharpening the blade.
This point should also be taken into account when determining optimal design devices. It is strongly recommended to take into account such an important indicator as the volume of work, because if the owner needs to process only a few kitchen cutters, then it hardly makes sense to choose to make it yourself professional sharpener for knives with drawings and three-dimensional modeling.
To make a knife sharpener with your own hands, You can take the following popular models as a basis:
Particularly popular is a knife sharpener that is quite easy to make with your own hands, the drawings with dimensions of which were developed by the famous Lansky company. And this option is optimal for independent design and further use at home.
Making a simple model yourself
The principle of operation of the device according to Lansky’s design boils down to the fact that the processing of a securely fixed blade is carried out at a strictly defined angle using replaceable sharpening stone attachments with different grain sizes, as a result of which it is possible to obtain a very sharp edge of the cutting element. The finished device costs about 1,500 thousand Russian rubles, but the ease of its manufacture and the minimum set necessary details inspires craftsmen to create more budget-friendly homemade analogues from available means.
Step-by-step master class
To choose necessary materials It’s worth starting after preparing what’s necessary for manufacturing homemade sharpener for knives sizes and drawings. To make the task as easy as possible, it is recommended to use finished projects, which can be found on almost any network resource. An example is Assembly drawing, according to which you can independently make a Lansky-type sharpening machine.
In order to assemble such a structure, The master will have to prepare the following materials:
- A metal rod that can be used to make studs marked M-6 of non-standard length.
- An electrode of any brand intended for use in electric welding work. It is from this element that the corner guides are made after complete cleaning of flux and burrs, which is carried out using grained emery.
- Carbon stainless steel with an average thickness of 3-5 millimeters, from which clamps with through holes are most easily made. It is worth noting that to make such holes you will need machine oil, treatment with a concentrated soap solution will help get rid of it in the future.
- Metal corners of medium size (9 by 9 by 0.6 centimeters).
In addition, you will need nuts and other fasteners, the recommended markings of which can be found in the presented drawing. As for the processing of elements and their assembly into a single structure, this procedure involves performing the following algorithm of actions:
There are often cases when, during operation, certain imperfections of a homemade sharpener are revealed, although this is not a reason for frustration, because you can always make a correction, maximally optimizing the operation of the device and adjusting it to individual needs.
There are several important rules sharpening of knives, which must be observed regardless of how exactly this procedure will be carried out. This means the following subtleties and nuances:
- Perpendicular placement of the blade in the direction of the whetstone while maintaining an angle equal to 1/2 of the sharpening value (the last condition is not mandatory).
- The sharpening angle should vary from 20 to 25 degrees.
- Start processing from the beginning of the blade, from its most blunt part. In this case, the edge can be painted black so as not to protrude beyond its limits when sharpening the blade.
During the turning process, characteristic transverse grooves tend to form on the edge of the blade. Their position relative to the base line of the cutting part must be perpendicular, because only then can it be said that the turning procedure was carried out correctly.
Materials
1. Plywood or plastic plate 10 mm thick.
2. Screws, wing screws, washers and rod (0.5 m) with M6 or M8 thread.
3. Used magnets hard drive computer
4. Bearing from an old coffee grinder.
5. Emery (abrasive skins) sheets and bars of different grain sizes: 120, 320, 600, 1500.
Manufacturing
1. The stationary part of the machine is made of plywood (plastic). Strips 30 cm long and 5 cm long and (10...12) cm wide are fastened with the letter G from the bottom with an aluminum corner. In the upper part we install 1 or 2 magnets (we fill them epoxy resin). We drill a hole in the lower opposite part and install a threaded rod (height 12...15 cm) with a bearing vertically.
On the surface (to support the knife being sharpened) we install a prepared aluminum (or stainless steel) plate with a slot in the middle (up to 2 mm thick) with a wing clamp.
2. The moving part has two options:
Option A. For sharpening with whetstones.
Option B. For sharpening with abrasive cloths.
U aluminum profile 4 sides 25mm wide.
A strip of abrasive sandpaper of different grain sizes is glued to each side: 120, 320, 600, 1500. For stickers, I use a stationery glue stick. Afterwards, the used strip of skin is easily removed with a knife and a new strip is glued on.
Sharpening process
1. Install the knife to be sharpened as in the photo.
The knife is clearly fixed by a magnet and there is no need to secure it mechanically.
Using a movable stop, we set the knife up to the required position and secure the stop with a wing screw.
We place the moving part of the machine on the knife.
Now we set the sharpening angle by lowering or lifting the bearing using screws.
For the first sharpening, turn the side with the minimum grit number 120 (the coarsest) towards the knife blade.
sharpen until you get a continuous strip on the edge of the blade (0.5...1 mm wide)
We turn the knife over and repeat everything.
We continue the process with sandpaper 320, 600, 1500.
Now you can shave with a knife.
The same procedure for sharpening with sharpening stones. But in this case there are several disadvantages:
1. The middle part of the block wears out over time and then the sharpening angle “floats”, which is not the case in the first option.
2. Bars with different grain sizes need to be changed, but in the first option, to change the grain size you only need to rotate the edge. The bar is removed by pressing the spring with two fingers.
Now all the knives are sharpened full cycle. If some of the knives become dull during use. I only sharpen these 600 or 1500 grit knives with two or three strokes on each side of the knife.
Thank you for your attention!
"Useful homemade products"from Gamir Khamitov.
