Mulberry (mulberry) is one of the unique plants that combines nutritional and medicinal properties fruits The plant has valuable wood, and the leaves serve as food for the silkworm, with the help of which natural silk is created. A deciduous plant reaching up to 15 m in height, it is distributed throughout the world. The plant grows in the subtropical zone of Asia, Africa, and North America. And in this article we will talk about the features of growing and caring for mulberries in the Moscow region.

Mulberries attract gardeners because of their healthy, sweet harvest. The fruits of the plant are infructescences of small nuts with fused pericarps. The berries are white, pinkish and purple shades. With special care, mulberries begin to produce crops 3 years after planting.. Larger crops are harvested in 4-5 years.

The mulberry plant is cultivated in the southern regions of the country - in the Krasnodar and Stavropol territories, Astrakhan, Rostov, Volgograd and Nizhny Novgorod regions. Moving north into Lately, mulberry is becoming popular in the Moscow region, Siberia, the Urals and other areas of the middle zone.

Since the duration of daylight hours in the Moscow region is short, the growing season occurs only in spring and autumn. However, thanks to the unique ability to quickly recover, The mulberry plant can withstand Russian winters with temperatures down to -30 degrees. However, this only applies to a few species.

Where to start planting mulberries?

Having decided to plant and propagate such an outlandish plant on your site, first of all, you should select mulberry varieties that are cultivated in your region.

The mulberry plant has 17 species. Every year, breeders develop new varieties of the plant, which number more than 200 subspecies. The most common types include red, black and white mulberries. White mulberry is grown in the temperate zone.

White and black mulberries differ not in the color of the berries, but in the shades of the plant bark. The trunk and branches of the white mulberry are light beige or light yellow. Black mulberry has darker shades of bark.

Equally important is the choice of plant shape. Taking into account cold winters, mulberry is formed into a low-growing tree or shrub. Mulberry green plant often used in landscaping areas in the form of hedges, alleys or alone.

How to choose the right seedling, methods of propagation

Mulberry trees are propagated in several ways.: seeds, cuttings, layering, grafting and young shoots.

Seed growing method They are mainly used by breeders to obtain a rootstock of varietal seedlings. The method is not complicated, but takes a very long time. Seeds are stratified two months before planting. And the landing in open ground produced after two years.

The cuttings produce seedlings with a good root system. However, under normal conditions this method is difficult to implement. Gardeners often resort to the layering method.

Most easy method purchasing mulberry plants - seedlings. When buying mulberry seedlings, it is worth finding out in what area they grew.. For example, seeds or seedlings brought from the south in the middle zone will not take root due to the frosty winter. Seedlings grown in your region are more adapted to the local climate.

Mulberry is a dioecious plant with male and female shoots. It is impossible to find out the sex before fruiting. Only 3-5 years after planting do fruits appear on female shoots. Male shoots do not bear fruit. They are used as decoration and landscaping in the garden. Therefore, you should only choose three-year-old seedlings that have already borne fruit.

Choosing a place to plant mulberries

Mulberry loves sunny, windless places. The best option the south side is used to place the mulberry tree. Near a fence or wall of a house, the plant will be protected from drafts and wind.

Important has the soil composition of the land. Loose loamy soils with deep soil are suitable for planting. groundwater. However, the plant can also take root in saline soils. When planting mulberries in empty sandy lands, it is worth additionally creating drainage from a layer of broken bricks. To enrich the soil, mineral fertilizers are applied.

Wetlands and lowlands are detrimental to mulberries. In damp, waterlogged or compacted soil, the plant withers or dies.

Depending on the shape of the mulberry tree, it is worth determining in advance the area of ​​its planting. For bushy mulberry, the distance between seedlings should be 3 m, and for standard form- 5 m.

Rules and technology of planting in spring and autumn

Mulberry seedlings are planted in spring and autumn periods. In spring, mainly in April, planting is done before sap flow begins.. So that the plant has time to take root in the fall, it is planted before the onset of the season of heavy rains and frosts.

It is advisable to plant mulberries in the middle zone in the spring. During summer season young shoots will grow bark and will not die in the first winter.

Seedlings are planted in pre- prepared pits with a depth of half a meter, size 80*80 cm. Place a bucket of compost or humus at the bottom. The straightened, free-lying roots of the seedlings are lowered, covered with earth. To improve rooting, the backfilled soil is mixed with 150 grams of minerals. Water it with water and tamp it down. The sowing of mulberries is completed with mulching, which protects the seedlings from freezing in the winter.

The plant is also planted by seed. At the end of autumn, the seeds are treated with a special solution or in the spring they are subjected to stratification two months before planting. Such preparation is necessary for better seed germination. The seeds are placed in soil 3-5 cm deep. Watered and mulch is laid to prevent freezing.

• When planting a plant, the root collar should be deepened a little. Burying mulberry roots, unlike apple or pear trees, does not lead to warming of the bark;
• Planting holes are prepared in advance, giving them the opportunity to stand;
• Dig pits of such size that the roots could fit freely;
• Don't overdo it with fertilizer. Due to overabundance, more shoots will appear;
• Thin plant stem tied to a peg or a board previously placed in a hole;
• If the soil is heavy, half a wheelbarrow of peat is added to the soil.

By following all planting rules, the plant takes root easily and grows quickly.

Caring for a newly planted seedling

Mulberry is unpretentious in care. If the landing took place in spring period, in the first half of summer, mineral or organic fertilizers and water abundantly. After July, seedlings cannot be fertilized. Also in the second half of summer, watering is carried out as needed, without waterlogging the soil.

During the summer season, the tree trunk circle of seedlings is weeded and the soil is loosened. Old dried branches are cut off.

IN summer time young shoots grow quickly. During this period, the plant can be propagated. Cutting off the shoot, divide it into small cuttings of 15-20 cm and plant it in the ground in a greenhouse at an angle of 45 degrees. By fall, the cuttings will have roots and can be planted in the garden next spring.

To preserve mulberries from strong winds and frosts, in the fall the side shoots are tilted to the ground and covered with spunbond. The edges of the spunbond are pressed with stones or bricks, protecting the plant from rodents. Additionally, mulch from pine needles, straw or fallen leaves is added to the tree trunk circle. During the winter, some of the shoots will freeze. However, the mulberry quickly adapts to spring and produces new shoots.

Subsequent care of the seedling, how to trim and shape the crown

Water the plant with the onset of dry weather. Fertilizing is applied once a season. Fertilize the soil with manure, wood ash, nitrogen and potassium fertilizers. Insecticides, fungicides and urea 7% are used to control diseases and pests.. Fertilizers are applied during the dormant period - in spring or autumn.

For the winter, mulberries are mulched and covered with flooring. In the spring, the flooring is removed and branches that are weak and damaged over the winter are trimmed.

The mulberry tree develops at a rapid pace in the first few years before fruiting. During this period, the plant skeleton is formed. In April - May, before the onset of sap flow and bud break, formative and rejuvenating pruning is carried out. The crown of the weeping mulberry is thinned out and the branches are shortened. For standard mulberries, it is necessary to form a crown. Young shoots are removed, leaving one bare trunk with a lush spherical or cascading crown. At country houses and personal plots form low plants up to 1.5 - 2 m, cutting off the upper shoots.

Regular mulberry yield occurs in 4-5 years. They accelerate the appearance of fruits with the help of grafting, after which the plant bears fruit in the third year. The berries ripen in July - August. Ripe fruits often fall off. To improve collection, spunbond is laid under the bush.

Mulberries are increasingly being used in summer cottages. The mulberry plant is resistant to mid-latitude climates, quickly takes root and grows intensively. In case of freezing, the plant quickly adapts and produces new shoots. If during the first two years the seedlings take root in a new place, then in the future they will tolerate winters well. By taking care, the mulberries can be passed on to future generations. The age of the plant can reach up to 200 years. And sweet mulberries will benefit the body. After all, the mulberry tree is one of the most useful plants in the world.

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Artem Levsha 05.20.2014 | 62405

Varietal mulberry can be propagated in several ways: seeds, cuttings and grafting. Choose the one that suits you best.

Seed propagation

Seed propagation is the easiest way to propagate mulberries of any type. It is enough to take a handful of full-fledged ripe fruits of your favorite variety, place them in a container and place them in a sunny place before fermentation begins. Afterwards, rub the seeds well in water with your hands, drain the raised “cap” from the empty shells. Then pour water again, pass through a fine sieve (the seeds are also small), immediately wipe and rinse the mixture until you obtain clean seeds freed from pulp. Then they need to be dried well, put in a paper bag and stored in a dry place until spring. 1.5 months before the sowing season, moistened seeds are placed on the top shelf of the refrigerator for stratification. Unstratified seeds are simply kept in water for 3 days.

Mulberry seeds are sown in fertile soil in April-May to a depth of 1 cm. Choose a bright place for the bed. Plantings need frequent watering (but not flooding). It is important to ensure that the “young animals” are not damaged by return spring frosts. Tender shoots are subsequently protected from direct sunlight. Dense plantings are thinned out at the fifth leaf stage. Unthickened ones are left here until the age of two (for growing).

Signs of the mother plant when seed propagation are not transmitted. Such seedlings, as a rule, serve as rootstocks (wildstock) for grafting varietal mulberries.

Propagation by green cuttings

The best way to propagate mulberries in the summer (good to combine with sanitary pruning) is green cuttings. In June, cuttings with 2-3 buds are cut from the middle part of an intact, healthy herbaceous (soft) shoot of the current year. The lower leaves are removed, and half of the blades are left on the rest for the subsequent development and growth of the cuttings. The cuttings are planted to a depth of 3 cm in a greenhouse (or an improvised one on a windowsill) under a light film, where high humidity is created for high-quality rooting. Care - moderate watering, frequent ventilation (increases as it grows), fertilizing mineral fertilizers(the first one was a month later). As soon as new shoots appear (after a month), the cuttings have taken root. The resulting seedlings exactly replicate the mother plant.

Propagation by semi-lignified cuttings

Mulberries are propagated in July by cuttings with wood that is not quite ripe (looks brownish), but is no longer soft. Preparation, planting, care are identical to the actions for green cuttings. The difference is the longer rooting time - these cuttings will need 1.5 months.

Propagation by lignified cuttings

For it, completely lignified shoots of a healthy varietal productive plant are used, taken from the outer part of a well-lit crown. The time for harvesting cuttings is the period of leaf fall (before the onset of stable cold weather). Leafless cuttings (18 cm), treated with a root formation stimulator (heteroauxin, root), are planted in a well-prepared open bed so that aboveground part the cutting was approximately 5 cm. At this point they can grow up to two years of age. Next, the strengthened seedlings need to be planted on permanent place.

As an option: cuttings prepared in the fall are placed in a moist substrate, stored in a cool place (cellar, refrigerator, buried in the garden bed) until sap flow begins (bud awakening), then planted vertically on the garden bed. These cuttings with two developed buds can be used for cutting grafting (copulation).

Reproduction by top grafting (copulation)

Mulberries can be grafted using almost all known methods. Copulation (grafting a cutting with a cutting) is considered easy and successful for amateur gardeners. Top grafting (with cutting off the top of the rootstock) - copulation - can be done indoors in winter or in early spring: cuttings grafted in advance (before sap flow) take root faster.

Of the many copulation methods, we will consider two when the rootstocks and scions are in deep dormancy (the bark is not separated).
Simple copying. This is when equal (the length is 4 times the diameter of the cutting) oblique cuts (6 cm by 1.5 cm in diameter) are made on a scion and rootstock of equal thickness for a clear joining of the cambial layers. Sections are made between the kidneys. Having aligned the sections, the junction along the length (without gaps) is covered with a dense bandage made of soft polyethylene. It is important to avoid displacement, otherwise fusion will be much worse.

Improved copulation with tongue. The difference between such grafting and simple copulation is that the oblique cuts on the grafted parts are supplemented by parallel cuts (notches), which overlap each other when joined, forming a strong mechanical connection of the tissues of the cuttings. This is done like this: having retreated 1/3 from the end of the cut, on the rootstock down, on the scion up, they begin to make a cut and lead it to half of the oblique cut. As a result, tongue-shaped cuts are formed on oblique cuts of the scion and rootstock - with their help, closer alignment occurs.

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When growing mulberries in the middle zone, the process has its own characteristics, but with minimal care you can regularly get a harvest of tasty and healthy berries. Many varieties unpretentious plant perfectly adapted to the harsh climate.

Appearance and varieties

Mulberry (mulberry) is often a dioecious tree or bush with a height of 1 to 15 m. There are both female and male plants. Less common is the monoecious mulberry. The fruit is a fleshy multi-drupe ranging in size from 1 to 5 cm. There are varieties with berries of white, dark purple and pink colors.

Depending on the individual characteristics Fruiting of plants can last from 2-3 weeks to more than a month. It occurs only on female mulberry specimens.

A healthy mulberry can grow and bear fruit for 150 to 300 years, depending on the type and development conditions.

Mulberry is actively cultivated in the southern regions; approximately 17 species of this plant are known. Over time, the distribution area of ​​the mulberry tree moved far to the north. Some of its varieties are grown in many regions of the middle zone, for example in the Moscow region, the Urals and Siberia. This is possible thanks to the plant’s ability to quickly restore vegetative mass.


In the northern regions, white mulberry varieties are grown (they take into account not the color of the berries, but the shades of the plant’s bark). Planted specimens with light yellowish or light beige shade trunk and branches. The fruits on the plant can be either dark or light, and the frost resistance of such mulberries is higher.

• "White honey" - resistant to low temperatures a high-yielding variety with appetizing fruits, which is actively grown in the Moscow region. Not demanding on soil, but the berries themselves have a very short shelf life - about 6 hours.
• “Black Baroness” is a tree with large berries (4 cm). The variety is high-yielding and frost-resistant.
• “Vladimirskaya” is a red-fruited variety with dark purple fruits. Does not require pollinators, responds well different types formations. Distinctive feature varieties - high frost resistance. Suitable for growing in Siberian conditions.

Reproduction

There are several main ways to obtain new mulberries. Each of them has both advantages and disadvantages.

• Seeds.

This method is easy to use, but it is time-consuming. It is usually used by breeders to obtain a rootstock for varietal seedlings. The resulting plants do not always retain the properties of the parent tree.

After harvesting the fruits, the seeds are extracted from them - for this, the berries are dried and ground through cheesecloth or a sieve. Store in a dry place until work is carried out, after two years they are sown in open ground. Usually stratification is carried out two months before sowing. In April, seed material is placed in a fertile earth mixture to a depth of about 2 cm. At a temperature of 20 to 25 degrees, the seeds germinate in about four weeks. They are regularly watered, the soil is loosened, and weeds are removed from the planting area. Be sure to mulch for the winter.

Specimens grown from seeds of local plants are better adapted to the conditions of a particular region.

Female and male mulberry plants grow from seedlings. It is impossible to determine the sex of a plant before flowering. Mulberries grown from seeds begin to bear fruit for the first time approximately 4 years after planting. Only female specimens are left, as they can form fruits without the presence of male plants.

• Cuttings.

Use green branches with 4-6 leaves. Cuttings are carried out at the beginning of summer, placing the blanks under a film in a greenhouse. They take root in about a month and a half. Young plants are covered for the winter and transplanted to a permanent growing location the following spring. It is more difficult to root semi-lignified cuttings; they are collected in mid-summer.

• Root shoots and layering.

To grow cuttings, in early spring the lower branch is bent to the soil. It is fixed and lightly sprinkled with earth. At the bend, the bark is lightly peeled off to stimulate root formation. By autumn, the root system is formed.

• With the help of vaccination.

It is carried out early in the spring, before sap flow begins. White mulberry with high frost resistance is usually used as a rootstock. You can graft several varieties of mulberry onto one tree with different biological properties. It is easy to carry out a simple copulation when identical indirect cuts are made between the buds on the scion and rootstock. They are connected, firmly fastened and do not allow displacement.

Mulberry tolerates replanting well; two-year-old trees take root especially easily.

How to plant?

For residents of the middle zone, it is preferable to plant mulberries in the spring - the plant will get stronger during the growing season and survive better. cold winter. You can also plant in the fall, after leaf fall. In this case, it is important that the mulberry tree has time to take root and get stronger before frost.

A few weeks before work, fertile soil is added to the site: leaf soil, humus and sand in a ratio of 2:1:2. You can place fertilizer directly into the hole before planting. Place a bucket of compost at the bottom of each hole. The size of the planting hole depends on the dimensions of the plant, on average - 80 x 80 x 60 cm. Approximately 70 g of superphosphate and 30 g of potassium salt are first poured into it. The roots of the plant are not shortened, they are placed in water for 10 minutes before planting, and carefully straightened in the hole. When planting, the root collar is deepened a couple of centimeters. The plant is covered with earth, watered and the trunk circle is compacted. Place a layer of mulch at least 5 cm thick from peat, humus or mowed grass on top.

Mulberry is a large tree, the distance between neighboring specimens should be at least 5-6 m. For the winter, young plants must be mulched with a layer of pine needles, fallen leaves or straw.

When purchasing seedlings, preference is given to specimens grown in the local region. Plants brought to the middle zone from the southern regions adapt less well and may not survive the harsh winter.

Cultivation Secrets

Mulberry does not require special conditions growing, just follow simple rules.

• The plant will like a warm, draft-free place protected from northern and eastern winds, preferably on the south side of the site.
• Mulberry prefers a well-drained site with loamy and fertile soil. When landing in an empty sandy soil They add mineral fertilizer and make drainage from broken bricks or crushed stone.
• Mulberry grows poorly in wetlands and low-lying areas with high elevations groundwater.
• In hot and dry weather, carry out regular watering, about 10 liters of water per day. mature tree. During rainy and cool weather, additional irrigation is not necessary.
• Young specimens must be covered for the winter. The root system is sensitive to low temperatures, so mulching is carried out before frosts. trunk circle. With good snow cover, adapted varieties in the middle zone can withstand frost of -30 degrees.
• For better ripening of the wood, pinch the tops of the shoots in the fall and regularly form a crown.

In the middle zone, the white variety reaches a height of 6 m. Annual branches can freeze out during harsh winter, however, the tree quickly grows new shoots.

“Sex change” of a mulberry tree can be triggered by pruning or tearing off leaves.

Crown formation

Without pruning, the mulberry grows unevenly and its appearance, productivity decreases. The tree reaches three meters in height in the first five years of life, if the plant is not shaped. At regular pruning the maximum height of adult specimens will be no more than 5 meters.

To form the crown, the mulberry is shortened during the period when sap flow begins, in March. The work is carried out with a sharp tool, taking care not to damage the tree bark. There is no need to treat fresh cuts with garden varnish or other means; this prolongs the wound healing period.

About once every 10 years in the middle zone there is severe freezing of mulberries. In this case, not only young shoots suffer, but also skeletal branches. Damaged parts are removed. Thanks to the good frost resistance of the roots, the plant recovers quickly. Over the next growing season, it grows powerful young shoots about 2 meters long.

In the fall, sanitary pruning is performed. Remove diseased, weak and injured shoots.

Mulberry is sometimes formed as a bush up to 3 m tall. This makes it easier to care for and harvest. For this shape, cut at a height of about one and a half meters from the ground. central part trunk above the third or fourth strong shoot. The crown forms a low trunk of 8-10 branches. In summer, excess new shoots are plucked out when they are still in a grassy state. In fruit-bearing trees, the crown is also thinned out, and the size of the branches is limited as necessary.

Mulberry can be grown as a tree with a single trunk. At the same time, annual shoots are regularly removed and the rapid growth of the tree is limited. Young branches are pinched (pinched), completing the work before the beginning of August.

Feeding

Fruit-bearing mulberries are fed with nitroammophoska in early spring, before buds open. For 10 liters of water take 50 g of fertilizer. In summer, feed with complex fertilizer, for example “Kemiroy Universal”, at the rate of 20 g per square meter landing In the fall, for better wintering, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied; it is useful to add 200 g of ash per square meter of planting during digging.

When watering, trees can be fed with liquid fermented manure. Approximately six parts of water are used for one part of fertilizer. Instead of manure, bird droppings are also used (1 part droppings to 10-12 parts water). From the second half of summer, nitrogen fertilizers are not used. Late application of such fertilizing provokes the growth of young shoots. The branches do not have time to ripen before the onset of frost and do not tolerate the winter well and may freeze.

Diseases and pests

Mulberry can be affected by bacteriosis, powdery mildew and root rot.

• Thickening of plantings and lack of moisture can provoke the appearance of a white powdery coating. At the first signs of fungus, spray twice with a fungicide, such as Fundazol, at intervals of a week.
• With bacteriosis, irregularly shaped spots appear on the leaves, which gradually turn black, the leaves fall off over time, and the shoots become covered with long brown spots. For treatment use “Fitoflavin” or “Gamair”. No unnecessary watering - The best way avoid root rot.

To prevent fungal diseases, all leaves are burned in late autumn.

Various parts of the tree can be affected by wireworms, spider mite, mulberry barbel, Khrushchi. In case of weak pest infestation, especially on young or short plants, they can be removed mechanically. In case of a mass attack, insecticides are used according to the instructions, for example “Decis”, “Konfidor”, “Aktaru”.

Beneficial features

At the mulberry valuable wood, and its leaves are food for the silkworm, which is used to produce natural silk.

The fruits of the plant have many beneficial properties. The berries are used to treat colds and intestinal problems. They contain a lot of macro- and microelements, beneficial vitamins, including folic acids. The fruits are recommended for use in cases of disorders of the cardiovascular system. They have diaphoretic, choleretic and anti-inflammatory effects.

For diabetes and hypertension, berries are consumed with caution.

Harvesting

The first single berries on a mulberry tree may appear on a two- or three-year-old tree. From about the age of five, harvests become abundant and regular. The size of the berries in the first years of fruiting is usually smaller; on mature specimens the fruits are larger. They reach maximum size by the age of ten.

Mulberry fruits ripen unevenly and quickly become overripe. If you miss the moment, they fall off the branches and cover the ground under the tree with a solid carpet. It is important to harvest on time. To do this, spread a cloth under the mulberry crown and shake the tree well. The berries are collected and used for food or processed immediately after being picked from the tree.

Mulberry is a flexible crop that has adapted to various climatic conditions. Growing it in the middle zone will not be difficult if you use frost-resistant varieties and properly organize the care of the non-capricious plant.

A standard country garden consists of common berry and fruit trees: plums, cherries, pears, apple trees... Planting mulberries will help to please children and dilute the usual set. Thanks to this unique plant, your children and grandchildren will have a lot of childhood memories: scolding mom for black hands, dark stains on clothes and climbing all over the tree in search of something tasty.

Mulberry berry has about 120 species of plants. Distributed in Central Asia, China, Japan and India. Considered a valuable medicinal fruit plant. In our country, white and black mulberries have become widespread. Black mulberry - greatest distribution received in South-West Asia. The tree bears dark black fruit. It is cultivated in the southern regions, as it does not tolerate frost. White mulberry is common in East Asia. In terms of taste, it is in many ways inferior to black. Previously, it was grown only for its leaves, which were used as food for silkworms. In the 17th century, Russian craftsmen discovered the secret of producing natural silk and tried to grow mulberries in Moscow. Since the mulberries did not tolerate frost well, the experiment failed. Over time, breeders created frost-resistant mulberry, which is now so common in our country. Mulberry, description and features The mulberry tree has interesting feature- sexual organization. This plant may be: monoecious; dioecious; three-house. Both female and male plants, as well as bisexual inflorescences, can be found on the same tree at the same time. Combinations depend only on the variety. In mulberries, fruit formation without fertilization is practically never observed. It is also very rare to see the formation of male and female flowers in the same inflorescence. Female flowers black mulberries are inconspicuous and small. This makes it possible to distinguish fruit-bearing trees from male pollinating plants. In the latter, the flowers form earrings. Mulberry planting Mulberry loves sheltered from the wind and well-lit places. For planting, it would be ideal to allocate loamy, loose, sandy and sandy loam soils. Planting can occur in April or early autumn. The planting hole should have dimensions of 60x80x80 cm. It is sprinkled with compost, fertile soil or humus with fertilizers. Mulberry seedlings, which you can buy at the market, are planted in the center, the roots are straightened, sprinkled with earth and compacted. Planting is completed with abundant watering and mulching. When to plant mulberries For mulberries, the optimal time for planting is April or September-October. Mulberries are most often planted in the fall; this allows our climate to test the plant for resistance to variable weather conditions until spring. If the mulberry tree survives the winter, then it will live for another 150 years, unless, of course, the owner of the garden gets tired of the plant. Mulberries, cultivation and care Growing mulberries requires the gardener to perform the usual procedures: loosening the soil, watering, removing grass, timely feeding, protection from pests and diseases, pruning. This tree can grow up to 25 meters in height, but for a country garden the crown should be formed so that the tree does not exceed 3 meters. The harvest can be obtained already in the 5th year of planting. A 10-year-old tree produces an average of 100 kilograms of fruit. The plant can be self-pollinating (have both female and male inflorescences in 1 inflorescence on one tree) or have male and female plants, depending on this, a pair of trees (female and male) or one is planted. Mulberries are often used in landscape design thanks to good vitality and excellent fruiting. It looks equally great both as a hedge and in group plantings. The mulberry photo shown below will look spectacular in any garden. Mulberry fertilizer The young seedling will have enough nutrients added to the hole during planting. As the tree begins to bear fruit, the need for additional nutrition will increase. This is especially necessary on sandy soils. Once the soil has thawed, you can apply nitrogen fertilizer or use bird droppings. If necessary, re-feeding can be done in early June. In autumn, phosphorus and potassium elements are added. Watering mulberries Mulberries are watered to increase frost resistance from spring to mid-summer. Please note that you can water mulberries only in hot, dry weather. During a rainy spring, it is not recommended to water the tree at all. Mulberry propagation When propagating mulberries, the following methods are used: seminal; cuttings; vaccination Mulberry propagation by seeds This is the easiest way to propagate any type of mulberry. To do this, you need to take a handful of ripe, full-fledged fruits, place them in any container and place them in a sunny place before fermentation begins. Next, the seeds are rubbed with hands in water; the raised cap from the empty shells must be drained. The seeds are again filled with water and passed through a fine sieve. The mass should be wiped until you get clean, pulp-free seeds. They need to be dried and stored in a dry place until spring. Seeds are sown in April in fertile soil to a depth of 1 centimeter. Plantings need regular watering. Dense plantings are thinned out and left for 2 years to grow. Mulberry propagation by green cuttings Green cuttings are the best way to propagate mulberries in summer. In June, several cuttings with 2-3 buds are cut from a healthy, intact herbaceous shoot. The lower leaves of the mulberry are removed. The cuttings are planted to a depth of 3 centimeters in a greenhouse under a light film. The plant needs moderate watering, frequent ventilation and fertilizing with mineral fertilizers. A sign that the cutting has taken root will be new shoots. Mulberry seedlings grown in this way are 100% copies of the mother plant. Mulberry propagation by semi-lignified cuttings In July, the mulberry tree is propagated by cuttings from wood that is not fully matured, but no longer soft. Cultivation is the same as with green cuttings. In this case, the cutting time will be long - one and a half months. Mulberry propagation by lignified cuttings IN this method already woody shoots of a varietal healthy plant taken from the crown of a tree are used. Cuttings are harvested during leaf fall and planted in a prepared bed. The cutting should stick out 5 centimeters above the surface of the earth. The plant is left in this form for 2 years, after which the strengthened seedlings are transplanted to a permanent place. Mulberry propagation by top grafting Mulberry can be grafted onto anyone in a known way. Grafting with cuttings onto a cut is very popular. Top graft can be produced indoors in winter or in early spring. Mulberry pruning In order for the tree to grow evenly, delight you with tasty fruits and develop diversified, it is necessary to properly care for it. Crown formation and pruning are the most important points care This procedure must be treated very responsibly, since it cannot be done without certain skills and knowledge. You cannot cut all the branches in a row; you must know how much, where and how much to cut. When to prune mulberries? Like any other tree, mulberry is pruned during a period of partial or complete dormancy. This allows the tree to endure the operation less painfully. It is recommended to prune in April and March. The main condition 0 is the air temperature, which should be more than -10 degrees. Sanitary pruning is done later. In autumn, the tree gets rid of pest-damaged, diseased and dried branches. Mulberry pruning by variety The process of pruning mulberries is practically no different from pruning other trees. However, some varieties have their own characteristics. The standard mulberry is pruned to create and maintain the most effective form plantings. This long trunk without branches and leaves, on which there is a dense leafy ball-shaped cap. This form is created only artificially using grafting and pruning. Weeping mulberry is pruned for thinning. Sick, broken, weak branches that thicken the crown are cut off. This type of mulberry is not afraid of heavy pruning. Even branches that are too pruned will continue to bear fruit and develop well. Decorative mulberries require constant pruning. This variety is charming precisely because of its original shape and beauty, which must be constantly maintained. Trimming mulberries correctly Inexperienced novice gardeners usually make a lot of mistakes when pruning. Let's consider the main rules of pruning: Do not use rusty or unsharpened tools. This way you will only harm the plant. The timing of mulberry pruning was not invented out of the blue; if you want to get a healthy tree, choose the appropriate time of year. When pruning branches, be very careful, because you can remove a healthy fruit-bearing branch without distinguishing it from a diseased or unnecessary one. Branches should be trimmed correctly - without tearing off the bark or leaving protruding stumps. Cuts cannot be processed oil paint or garden decoction. This will not in any way affect the acceleration of wound healing, but will only worsen the process. Everything should happen naturally. Mulberry diseases Excess/lack of fertilizers and unfavorable weather conditions increase the influence of pathogenic factors. Possible mulberry lesions include: brown leaf spot; powdery mildew; curly small leaves; bacteriosis; root rot; mulberry damage. Fungal damage to mulberries Powdery mildew is caused by a fungus and affects trees only during periods of drought. The main symptom is mealy white coating. It appears in a separate area and gradually infects shoots and leaves. The development of the disease is promoted by dense plantings and lack of moisture. At the initial stage of the disease, the mulberry is sprayed with a systemic fungicide, and re-treatment is carried out a week later. For prevention, it would not be superfluous to carry out antifungal treatment early autumn. For this we use: oxygen sulfur suspension; foundationazole; Bordeaux mixture. An effective method of prevention is burning mulberry leaves in late autumn. Mulberries also suffer from brown spot, which is caused by a fungus. The disease appears as red-purple spots on the leaves. Severe damage causes holes to form and leaves to turn yellow. To combat the disease, fallen leaves should be collected and burned, since the pathogen overwinters in them. For prevention, spraying with a 0.1% Silit solution is used, which is repeated once every 2 weeks. The procedure should be carried out before the kidneys swell. At least 3 liters of the drug should be consumed per tree. Mulberry curl and bacteriosis Curly small leaves significantly reduce mulberry yields. This viral infection is spread by insects. Granular nodules and wrinkles appear on the leaf veins. The leaves decrease in size and curl up. The number of young shoots increases significantly, but they look deformed and weak. Blooming leaves become rough, brittle and lose color. There is no cure. Bacteriosis affects leaf blades and young shoots of mulberries. The disease is accompanied by spots with irregular outlines, which eventually turn black. These leaves curl and fall off over time. Affected shoots become covered with brown spots and become deformed. Gamair and Fitoflavin are used for treatment. But fungicides cannot always overcome the disease. Damage to mulberry wood by gum and mulberry When the mulberry bark is mechanically damaged, gum is released. This is an amber sticky mass with a viscous consistency. The damaged area is cleaned and disinfected with a 1% solution of copper sulfate. After which the surface is treated with putty made from sifted ash and nigrol. The mulberry tree loves to settle on this tree. It destroys the wood, which has a detrimental effect on the trunk. Mulberry spores enter the tree through various damage to the tree. Having identified the body of the fungus, it is cut out with part of the wood and burned. The exposed surface is processed copper sulfate. The affected area is then carefully covered with a special putty made from cow dung, lime and clay, or garden pitch. By planting mulberries, you are guaranteed to provide your children and grandchildren with a supply of berries. After all, depending on the variety, a mulberry tree can live about 300 years. We wish that your plant takes root and turns out to be a female.

Mulberry, also known as mulberry, mulberry tree, comes from Transcaucasia. In our country, it is cultivated in two types: white and black, or rather, black-violet) mulberry. These names are determined not by the color of the berries, but by the color of the bark of mature trees.

White mulberry is used to feed silkworms; it is sweeter than black mulberry.

Mulberry cultivation

Mulberry fruits resemble raspberries in appearance, and are popularly called berries. Their taste ranges from sickly sweet to sweet and sour. Used raw and dried, suitable for homemade preparations (jam, syrup, jelly, marshmallows, candied fruits). When dry, they can be stored for a long time.

The healing properties of mulberries are also known. An infusion of ripe berries is used as a diaphoretic, and leaves as an antipyretic.

Mulberry - warmth and light-loving plant. Tolerates drought, urban conditions, even proximity industrial enterprises. In a harsh, snowless winter, the above-ground part (unripe branches) may freeze. But its roots are more frost-resistant, and the trees are easily restored due to root growth and the lower parts of the branches preserved under the snow. White mulberry is more winter-hardy, withstands frosts up to 30 degrees.

The advantage of mulberry is its ability to be pollinated by the wind and not depend on the presence of insects.

The mulberry tree begins to bear fruit at the age of 6-8 years. Its flowers are dioecious and bloom at the same time as the leaves. Female flowers are dense, erect, while male flowers are in the form of drooping earrings. Mulberry trees are capable of self-pollinating, but produce greater yields when grown in group plantings.

Mulberry grows on any soil, except swampy, with close groundwater. But it is very responsive to fertilizers, especially organic ones. It bears fruit better on fertile soils, in an open sunny place, protected from cold winds.

Without pruning, mulberries can grow up to 10 m tall. Pruning begins with a seedling, shortening it to 1.5 m so that side shoots begin to grow.

Mulberry propagation

Mulberry propagates by seeds and cuttings. For planting, you can use freshly picked first ripened fruits. They are immediately sown in a schoolyard or in boxes of soil. The seeds germinate in 7-10 days and by autumn they produce shoots 30-40 cm high.

You can sow the seeds in November - early December in a bed with loose soil to a depth of 2-3 cm. In the spring they will sprout, they need to be picked up, and in the fall they should be transplanted to a permanent place, deepening them in the same way as they grew in the schoolhouse.

It is more difficult to propagate mulberries from cuttings. Cuttings are taken from annual growths in the fall, after leaf fall. Stored in wet sand in the basement until spring. In the spring, when the snow melts, cut cuttings 15-20 cm long and treat their ends with growth stimulants (according to the instructions).

Growing mulberries from cuttings.

Then they spill clean water and planted in a schoolyard with fertile soil, vertically, deepening to the top bud. Leave 2-3 cm above the soil. The cuttings are watered and covered with film on the arcs or spun-bond. Regular care, but without excessive moisturizing.

Rooted seedlings are planted in a permanent place at 3-5 years of age. The planting depth is the same as in the school. The soil is mulched with organic matter. Water only in dry weather.

In the southern regions, mulberry has been known since the time of Catherine II, who contributed to the development of sericulture in the south of Russia, incl. on the banks of the Volga. Significant areas were sown with white mulberry seeds to feed silkworms (silkworm caterpillars).

And now interest in this plant has not disappeared. It is grown on city streets, in courtyards and in summer cottages. It's not only fruit crop, but also decorative. It looks good in alleys and forest plantations. It easily tolerates pruning and can be given the desired shape.

Watch a video about growing mulberries: