A year after the construction of the foundation of the house, it is imperative to prepare a blind area that will drain rain and melt water from the foundation. In the manufacture of such a design, the most different materials and technology, but it is also necessary to take into account the fact that the base itself also requires protection from moisture. A blind area with waterproofing will ensure dryness in the basement and preserve the foundation for a long time.

In order to properly make a waterproofing layer, you first need to decide on the material for it.

Materials for the blind area

Waterproofing of the blind area consists of an underlying layer 20 cm high and a covering of bulk material, which resists the penetration of water into the structure. Sometimes insulation material is additionally laid between these layers.

Important! If you use raw materials with a porous structure, then each layer must be treated with water-repellent preparations.

Today, the following materials are used for waterproofing blind areas:

1. Hot tar or bitumen mastics. These compounds are used when coating the foundation.
2. Ruberoid, hydroglass insulation, geotextiles.
3. PVC films.
4. PVP membranes (profiled).
5. Geotextiles, rubemast.

If you plan to make a solid slab, it is best to use hydraulic cement or asphalt concrete. There are also specialized compounds that have waterproofing properties, for example, “Xypex”, “Masterseal” and other polymer preparations. They penetrate into concrete and reliably protect it from the harmful effects of moisture.

For waterproofing the blind area soft type They use rolled materials, but roofing felt and polyethylene cannot completely protect the foundation from moisture. Therefore, it is better to give preference to polyvinyl chloride films.

In addition, roll materials have the following disadvantages:

• The surface of the basement floor must be leveled, cleaned and thoroughly dried.
• Materials of this type have very low strength and fragility.
• The process of laying such materials requires a lot of effort and time.
• The waterproofing layer must be protected from mechanical damage.

Healthy! If you use rolled materials, it is recommended to produce additional vertical waterproofing. To do this, the material must be wrapped on the wall of the house, 150-200 mm high.

How to waterproof a blind area

Depending on the availability of the basement, single-level and two-level blind areas are performed:

• If the house does not have a basement, then the waterproofing layer is laid at the basement level, that is, 200 mm above the ground. Since the base is necessarily made at a slope of 2-5 degrees, then protective layer is laid on special protrusions. Thanks to this, each subsequent layer will protrude a certain distance.
• If the building has a basement, then it is necessary to perform two-level waterproofing. The first layer is placed at floor level basement, and the second - at the level of the base, above the blind area.

To make the base, follow these steps:

1. Remove upper layer land, having previously calculated the width of the blind area (usually it ranges from 60 to 120 cm).
2. Place a layer of clay 10 cm high at the bottom of the trench.
3. Lay the waterproofing material by folding its edge onto the wall of the house.
4. Pour sand 10 cm high and compact it.
5. Lay the geotextile and sprinkle it with a thin layer of sand (about 5 cm).
6. Place crushed stone, pebbles or gravel 15 cm thick.
7. Lay another layer of geotextile and sprinkle it with sand again (if the blind area is soft, you can skip this step).
8. Fill the base with cement and lay paving stones on it. If you are cooking soft base, then you can post it right away paving slabs, tapping it with a rubber hammer.

You can also do horizontal waterproofing by using:

• Cement screed made of PC and sealants 20-25 mm thick.
• Ruberoid or roofing felt, which is laid in two layers and glued with mastic.
• Asphalt screed 25-30 mm thick, which is laid at the level of the base of the building.

When working, you should pay attention to some features of waterproofing.

Features of blind area waterproofing

When waterproofing a blind area, you must consider the following recommendations:

1. When making a protective “tape” around a building, it is best to use solutions that include waterproofing substances.
2. Rolled materials can only be used if the differences in base height do not exceed 2 mm.
3. If in your region they often go heavy rains, then after erecting the base, dig a gutter around its perimeter that will drain water.
4. It is not recommended to use scrap as a filler for the base, since this material will contract and expand with temperature changes.
5. The depth of the blind area may vary depending on the level groundwater, precipitation and climatic conditions, the presence of sewerage systems.

There is also a painting waterproofing of the blind area, which is performed by applying bitumen mastic.

Painting waterproofing

Protecting the base of a blind area from moisture with paint-based waterproofing is inexpensive and easy to install. Before treating the surface of the base, it must be primed with bitumen mastic. After this, a bitumen-polymer, cement-polymer, bitumen or polymer paint composition is applied to the primer layer with a brush.

Healthy! If the composition is applied to rubble walls, they must first be leveled.

Bituminous mastic is applied 2-3 thin layers thickness no more than 2 mm. After treatment, the surface is checked for cracks, swelling and other defects. If any are found, the surface is cleaned and re-coated with a waterproofing compound.

It is worth considering that when working with hot materials, you must adhere to the following precautions:

1. The bitumen boiler must be installed under small angle so that the molten liquid does not enter the fire. You also need to prepare sand and a fire extinguisher nearby.
2. When using several grades of bitumen, the lower grade melts first, and then the high one. If you add low-grade bitumen to hot concrete, this will lead to rapid foaming, which can cause the composition to spill out.
3. The amount of bitumen in the boiler should not exceed 2/3 of the tank volume.
4. To avoid hot splashes, slowly lower pieces of bitumen along the side of the boiler.
5. You can work with molten mastic only in protective clothing.

In custody

When building a blind area, you don’t have to lay a waterproofing layer, but this will lead to the fact that the base will not last long and over time it will collapse under the influence of water. It is best to use rolled materials or bitumen mastic, thanks to which the “tape” around the house will last twice as long.

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The article shows the need to build a blind area around the perimeter of any house. The protective role of the blind area for the foundations of houses and basements is considered. The important role of blind area waterproofing is revealed and the main types of waterproofing are given.

Blind area in house construction

The basis of any capital structure is the foundation. For the construction of houses in individual housing construction, the bearing capacity of the underlying soils and their water content on an annual basis are studied in accordance with the normative procedure. After erecting any type of foundation, floors and walls, it is necessary to pay attention to the contact area vertical plane foundation and soil outside the house.

Crushed stone blind area

Even a short rain will cause water to flow down the walls of the house and enter this contact zone. There is a constant wetting of both the foundation itself and the underlying soil. Its load-bearing capacity changes. Drawdowns occur. In more severe cases The basement is flooding.

Heaving soils are especially dangerous. Their constant shifts caused by the influx of water lead to the destruction of the building.

Protective role of the blind area

Preventing the negative consequences of wetting the foundation and soils in its vicinity is carried out by constructing a blind area around the entire building. This is a hard, durable waterproof strip, 0.9–1.3 meters wide, which slopes away from the house. Many people think that the blind area is the sidewalk around the house. Like a roof that protects the entire house from precipitation, the blind area protects the most important thing on which this house stands - the foundation. During construction residential buildings regulations unambiguously and clearly indicate the need for the construction of this part, immediately after the construction of the building.

It happens that in individual housing construction, when constructing a house independently and slowly, the construction of the blind area around it is postponed indefinitely. This should not be done.

Types and types of blind areas, materials for their waterproofing

The choice of blind area design determines the amount of precipitation falling on it. If the drainage from the roof is not organized and diverted special pipes down, then the blind area will be subjected to strong influence of jets of water flowing evenly from the entire roof. Such a blind area should be stronger and thicker.

There are several types of blind areas, they are either made on site or assembled from ready-made elements:

• a simple, bulk blind area made of clay covered with crushed stone;
• blind area made of clay, crushed stone and additional waterproofing material;
• a blind area made of concrete (with or without reinforcement), which is poured on site;
• blind area made of ready-made reinforced concrete slabs.

For waterproofing blind areas, materials of varying cost and manufacturability are used:

• bitumen mastic or hot tar is used for coating the foundation and sizing;
• rolled waterproofing materials - roofing felt, hydrostekloizol, hydrostekloizol, etc.;
• modern inexpensive rolled materials - geotextiles, polypropylene, rubemast and other numerous rolled materials used primarily for roofing;
• for solid blind areas, hydraulic cements and asphalt concrete are used;
• from effective modern materials for waterproofing the blind area around the house, special compounds penetrating the concrete are used that make it protected, Xypex and its analogues,
• Mastersil and his clones;
• other polymer waterproofing compounds.

Technologies for waterproofing the blind area around the house on your own

When making a blind area, it is necessary to remove the soil and plant layer around the entire perimeter of the house at a distance of up to 1.3 m. If you do a budget option blind area made of clay, it is necessary to ensure its compaction and tight connection to the foundation. It is advisable to spray the junction with hot bitumen. Can be glued to vertical surface concrete foundation strip roll material. When pouring clay and compacting, it is necessary to create a slope of the blind area away from the house. It is enough to make a 10% slope.

If funds allow, all clay after compaction is covered with a layer of rolled waterproofing material. To enhance the waterproofing ability of the blind area, several layers can be laid with hot bitumen. Then backfilling with crushed stone and compaction occurs.

As an option, backfilling is carried out waterproofing layers sand, followed by laying artificial stone or .

Concrete blind area

One of the most common ways to construct a waterproofing blind area around a house is to make formwork and simply pour concrete into the prepared bed (with a layer of crushed stone) for the blind area. You can use reinforcement mesh. Next comes the formation of the slope. This horizontal layer of concrete acts as a waterproofing barrier. Decorative tiles can be laid on top of the concrete layer.

Instead of filling monolithic concrete on site, you can prepare a base of sand and crushed stone, pour it with bitumen and lay ready-made concrete tiles.

Blind area made of ready-made slabs

We should not forget that the blind area plays not only a protective role. It must carry an additional aesthetic load and correspond to the architectural design as a whole.

The article discusses the need to construct a blind area in individual housing construction. Shown the main role blind areas - waterproofing the foundation and soil. Options given various designs blind area. An overview of materials for waterproofing blind areas around the house is given.

After completing the construction of the house, it is necessary to arrange a blind area. If this is not done, precipitation flowing from the roof and walls of the house is retained, contributing to the subsidence of the foundation. To protect the structure from moisture and prevent its accumulation in the foundation area, materials with special water-repellent properties. Waterproofing the blind area here is necessary to perform the following functions:

• protection load-bearing structures, basements and basements from water;
• reducing soil moisture near the foundation improves its thermal insulation properties;
• prevention ;
• protection of the foundation from the destructive effects of the roots of perennial plants;
• coatings give the building a decorative appearance.

Under is removed fertile layer ground, which is about 25 cm deep. Its optimal width is 100 cm. Waterproofing is done along the entire perimeter, no matter what material is used. If the eaves overhang protrudes long distance, the blind area should be made wider so that water flows onto it.

Waterproofing for blind areas: material

1. Rolled materials also suitable for roof protection: geotextiles, roofing felt, hydroglass insulation, polypropylene, rubemast.
2. Liquid - for treating foundation surfaces and waterproofing seams: bitumen mastic, tar, compounds absorbed into concrete.
3. Solid materials: asphalt, concrete, cobblestones, paving slabs, artificial stone, etc.

Types of bulk blind area

The simplest waterproofing of a blind area is done using clay. It is laid out around the house with an outward slope, compacted, and then covered on top with other materials, such as gravel, so that it is not washed away by water.

Depending on the purpose, the following blind areas are used.

1. Bulk. Consists of two layers. A layer of crushed stone 10 cm thick is placed above the bottom layer of compacted clay (20 cm thick). The type of waterproofing is the simplest. It is used when draining water from the roof using a drain and in areas with little rainfall. It is inconvenient to walk on such a blind area. It can also blur over time when the clay gets wet.
2. Bulk with additional waterproofing protection. The blind area becomes more complex. Suitable for protecting houses with basements. Rolled waterproofing for the blind area is laid on a layer of compacted clay with an overlay on the foundation, and then it is covered with crushed stone or pebbles. To prevent the layer from being loose, make a layered “pie”: clay, waterproofing fabric, a 5 cm layer of coarse sand, geotextiles, a 10 cm thick layer of gravel, geotextiles and a 10 cm layer of crushed stone. For a complicated blind area, it is advisable to use durable polypropylene-based materials, PVC films, etc.

Soft bulk blind area is increasingly used due to the emergence of high-quality facing materials- paving slabs, artificial stone, etc. They are placed on a layer of sand, comfortable and durable.

Asphalt or concrete blind area

Solid waterproofing of a blind area made of concrete or asphalt is reliable protection against precipitation. A 25 cm deepening is made in the ground around the house. The bottom of the trench should be thoroughly compacted. Then the formwork is constructed for concrete pouring. Substrate is placed in the trench sand layer 10 cm thick. It is moistened with water and compacted. A layer of crushed stone 5 cm thick is poured onto the sand, which is also compacted. A road mesh for reinforcement is laid on top.

It is advisable to pour the concrete solution in one go to ensure the necessary strength. Afterwards the surface is leveled and a slope of 5-10 0 is made as a rule. After initial hardening for two hours, the blind area is covered with film for 2 days. This is necessary to retain moisture, which increases the strength of the layer. The surface can also be asphalt.

The concrete blind area can be laid out from ready-made slabs. It has characteristics similar to aspic. Laying paving stones or paving slabs is now widely used. To do this, crushed stone is poured onto a clay waterproof layer, then sand, and a hard surface is paved over it.

Waterproofing and drainage

To drain water, drainage is made along the outer edge of the blind area. Here you can pave stone grooves. The bottom is covered with waterproofing. You can simply saw along and lay out asbestos-cement or plastic pipe. It is performed with a slope towards the drainage well.

You can use ready-made channels or drainage trays with gratings on top.

A budget solution is to use closed drainage. To do this, geotextiles are placed in the drain, filled with crushed stone, and then wrapped on top with the same fabric and covered with sand. Waterproofing under the blind area and drainage are done as one whole so that water does not go into the ground.

Features of blind area waterproofing

1. Waterproofing is selected taking into account climatic conditions, soil conditions, the presence of groundwater and the location of the house.
2. Waterproofing can be done at different levels. In many cases it is enough concrete screed. But sometimes another level of home protection is needed using roll waterproofing. It is applied with an overlap to the foundation with a height of 15-20 cm.
3. High-quality protection of the house is ensured by covering the foundation with bitumen mastic and then applying roll insulation to it. If it is made in several layers, each of them is glued to the walls with mastic.
4. The blind area is made on the basis of waterproofing cements. You can breed them yourself by adding additives.

Penetrating Foundation Insulation

Waterproofing of the foundation and blind area is done in a complex. Modern method is the treatment of concrete surfaces with penetrating compounds containing Portland cement with fillers and active chemical additives. To do this, the pores of the concrete should be opened and weak fragments removed. The surface should be moistened before treatment, but not excessively, otherwise the material will blur (no more than 5 liters of water per square meter). When diluting the material, all instructions must be followed. It is important that the impregnation matches the type of surface. It is applied evenly. Thin layers will not perform their functions properly, and thick layers will crack. Sealing holes is ineffective here, since the product is intended to improve the waterproofing properties of the concrete itself. The protective composition fills the pores without allowing moisture to pass through.

Conclusion

The blind area can be made by anyone who does not have professional builder skills. At the same time, it must be done correctly in order to reliably protect the foundation from precipitation. Waterproofing the blind area is especially important.

To prevent erosion of the soil around the house by rain and melt water, as well as to remove precipitation from the foundation, a blind area is made around the house. This work must be carried out before final finishing base More specifically, decide for yourself. But it is undesirable to delay: leaving a house or bathhouse over the winter without a blind area, you may end up with several cracks in the foundation in the spring.

The blind area around the house is a simple structure. However, it greatly extends the life of buildings. During autumn bad weather, water seeps into the foundation. In cold weather it freezes, increasing in volume, thereby creating overpressure. As a result of this load, cracks appear in the foundation, into which water also penetrates. Freezing makes them even wider. Without a blind area for some time, the foundation requires serious and expensive repairs. Sometimes the damage is so severe that it cannot be repaired.

But these are not all the functions that it can perform. protective covering around the house. In some cases it is used as a path. Sometimes, by laying insulation and a layer of waterproofing under the blind area, you can improve performance characteristics buildings and correct some shortcomings made during construction in heat and. In addition, from a decorative point of view, it serves as a logical conclusion to the design of the house.

What is the blind area made of?

The cheapest option is from concrete mortar. But it takes more time to create such a design. Especially on heaving soils: a special cushion and reinforcement are required. The entire time until the solution gains strength, you cannot walk on it, and this is at least four to five days.

Other types of protective belt covering around the house are paving slabs, paving stones, bricks, natural stone, porcelain tiles, etc. There are a lot of options today. The main thing is that they have the following properties:

• did not let water through;
• did not crack when freezing/thawing;
• had high abrasion resistance;
• had aesthetic appeal;
• had a long service life.

There is another material for the blind area, but it is rarely used in private housing construction - asphalt is laid around the house. As for attractiveness (as in the case of concrete), the issue is debatable, but the other characteristics are simply excellent.

But a protective coating is not everything. Other materials will be needed. Which ones specifically depend on the option you choose to implement. We can say for sure that sand and crushed stone will be required. You may need waterproofing and slab insulation.

Dimensions

Because the main task remove the thawed blind areas and rainwater, its width should be at least 20 cm greater than the roof overhang. But experts do not recommend doing it less than 60 cm - moisture can seep into the foundation.

The width of the protective belt also depends on the type of soil. If these are normal soils that drain water well, then 60 cm is enough. If the house is on loam, other heaving or unstable soils, the width should be up to 1 meter.

Basic parameters of the blind area for normal drainage of water from the foundation

But the blind area must also go deeper. Its depth depends on the type of soil, the functions it will perform and the thickness of the top finishing layer.

If the house stands on normal, non-heaving soils (not clay or clay-containing soils), and people will not walk on the surface, it is enough to make a backfill of sand 10 cm thick. You can lay tiles, stones, etc. on top. This means that the depth of the trench will be about 10-20 cm - it depends on the thickness finishing material. Only for a coating that is made up of fragments, a border is required. So you dig in edge stones around the perimeter, reinforce them, and only then pour sand into the bottom of the trench.

If the formwork will be used as footpath, a more serious, weight-distributing substrate is needed. At the bottom of the ditch, crushed stone of a medium-sized fraction of about 15-20 cm is first laid, and then sand is placed on it, and only then the finishing coating.

What else is mandatory is compliance with the slopes: the decline comes from the house. So the moisture will flow into drainage system or the soil located around. The amount of slope depends on the type of protective coating used. For concrete and asphalt, the slope is 3-5% (height difference per 1 meter is 3-5 cm). When laying stone, tiles, porcelain stoneware, the slope is 5-10%.

Work order

After the dimensions have been selected, the actual installation of the blind area begins. In general, this occurs in several successive stages.

Marking and removing soil

The selected width is laid around the perimeter of the building. Here it must be said that in those places where people will walk, it can be made wider.

They are usually marked by driving in pegs. By stretching a string or cord between the pegs, they outline the front of the work. Over this entire area it will be necessary to remove the turf and some of the soil. At the same time, the roots of the plants are removed. Frequently processed chemicals, which prevent plant germination. If this is not done, as they germinate, they will destroy the coating.

Construction of expansion joint

It is very important to remember when doing this that the blind area and the foundation should not be connected. To do this, it is necessary to leave an expansion joint around the perimeter of the foundation, about 2 cm wide. In practice, this is either strips of foam plastic 2 cm thick, or two layers of folded roofing material attached to the foundation.

An expansion joint is necessary so that when the soil moves under the blind area, it does not put pressure on the foundation. If this is not done, instead of preventing destruction, it will create pressure, which will sooner or later lead to cracks in the walls.

Bedding and finishing coat

If you follow the “folk” technology, a layer of clay is poured onto the bottom of the trench. It will prevent moisture seepage. It is compacted, already at this stage creating a slope from the foundation. This backfill is suitable for any type of soil. It may take a long time to compact it, but it will not conduct water. If you use sand for the blind area of ​​a house standing on clay soils, most of the water will end up just under the foundation.

Things will go faster if you use a tamping machine. If there is no such thing, take a log of medium diameter and saw off 80-90 cm. The height should be such that you do not have to bend over - you should be able to reach the top edge with your hands. On one side they fill the crossbar - the handle. This deck is used to compact it, raising and lowering it.

Then add a layer of sand. It is spilled with water and also thoroughly compacted. In normal soils and if people will not walk on the blind area, you can lay paving slabs or paving stones. When using concrete as a protective covering, it will be necessary to pour and compact a layer of crushed stone, arrange formwork and expansion joints, lay out the reinforcing belt and only then pour the solution. So making concrete path takes a lot of time.

Insulation of the blind area

If the blind area is made around a house with a basement or ground floor, you need to do its heat and waterproofing at the same time. Insulation is necessary for everyone slab foundation- it will prevent the soil under the slab from freezing.

Some experts argue that in middle lane Russia and the north, insulation is necessary in any houses with seasonal accommodation. The fact is that in a heated house, the heating itself prevents the foundation from freezing. And if they insulate the blind area, it is only for the purpose of saving fuel. In a house with seasonal residence, it is necessary to take additional measures to extend the life of the building. And that's why. Any material can withstand a certain number of freezing and thawing cycles. After which it begins to collapse. In the absence of insulation, in one season the foundation will freeze and freeze as many times as the weather changes - in autumn and spring the weather often alternates between warm and cold. It is clear what this state of affairs will lead to: after some short time, destruction will begin.

For thermal insulation to the entire depth of the ditch (and better than foundation) a thermal insulation layer is attached to the base. It is also laid on the bedding under the protective coating. To insulate the blind area around the house, the following materials are used:

• expanded polystyrene;
• foamed polyurethane;
• Styrofoam.

Insulation with extruded polystyrene foam

This material is one of the best for insulating foundations. At the same time, it retains heat and does not allow moisture to pass through: its hygroscopicity is close to zero. Its downside is that it melts easily. But for insulating the foundation and formwork, this drawback is not significant.

It is advisable to spread plastic film on horizontally laid out slabs - it will protect the joints of the slabs from water leakage.

Formwork with polystyrene is done in this way:

1. Compacted coarse sand in a layer of 15 cm.
2. Ruberoid. In this case, it must be placed on the walls by 15 cm.
3. Polystyrene boards, joints are sealed with sealant. The thickness of the layer is 10 cm. It can be either one slab, or two 5 cm each. If there are two slabs, they need to be glued with overlapping seams - this will provide more reliable protection against moisture penetration.
4. Polyethylene film 200 microns.
5. Layer of sand. It is carefully compacted, trying not to push through the slabs.
6. Protective material.

Any film is used as a protective material. But under the concrete, an additional reinforcing mesh is placed (metal with a cell of 10*10 cm) and only then the solution is poured downhill.

Foamed polyurethane

It's sprayed out special devices. It does not rot, practically does not absorb water, the operating temperature range is from -60 o C to +150 o C. It is applied quickly - all work can take three to four hours, but the use of a special apparatus entails payment for services. They are not cheap - one of the components is toxic. So, for all its attractiveness, this method is used infrequently.

Foam insulation

This is the cheapest of the insulation materials. It has good heat-insulating properties, does not allow water to pass through, and also has good soundproofing properties. Its only drawback is small mechanical strength. When using it, an additional reinforcing belt is required. The sequence of actions is the same as when insulating with polystyrene, only two differences:

• pour sand on top of the insulation in a thicker layer, compact it only by patting it with a shovel, and you cannot walk on the foam;
• under tiles or paving stones, a reinforcing belt is also needed, which is covered with a second layer of sand on top.

Despite the low price, polystyrene foam is not the best choice: He is too afraid of stress. If people will walk on the path, it should not be used. To reduce the cost of insulation, you can use it for gluing to the foundation, and purchase polystyrene foam for the formwork itself. This will be the best option.

Waterproofing

Waterproofing is necessary for heaving soils and lack of insulation of the foundation and blind area. In this case, the less water there is under the building, the less likely it is that heaving forces will damage your building.

The sequence of layers for waterproofing is as follows:

• Waterproofing layer - regular dense polyethylene film 200-300 microns thick - clay is laid. There is no need to tighten it - there should be some freedom of movement so that it does not tear during seasonal movements of the soil. The height of the approach to the foundation is 15-20 cm. It is nailed to the foundation with a clamping strip (if it is wooden, then it must be treated with hot drying oil so that it does not rot). But this is done later, after laying a layer of sand and geotextile. So for now, fix the film on the wall, for example, with a few nails.
• 10-15 cm of sand is poured onto the film. It's being compacted. Geotextiles are laid on top. It is a godsend for blind areas - it allows moisture to pass through, redistributes the load, does not tear, does not allow different layers to mix, is not damaged by insects and rodents, and does not allow plants to germinate. And all this is some kind of woven or non-woven membrane (they come in different types). Lay the geotextile so that it overlaps the film laid below, and attach both layers with a strip to the foundation. On the other hand, it must cover the entire remaining height of the dug trench.
• Then there are two options:
  1. To save money, you can fill the remaining pie with crushed stone, and lay a reinforcing layer on it - metal mesh made of steel rod in increments of 10*10 cm. Concrete can be poured on top.
  2. If you use paving stones or tiles, the cake will be more difficult. It will be necessary to lay another layer of geotextile on the compacted crushed stone. Lay another layer of sand on it, and then lay protective and finishing tiles on top of the sand.

Two options for constructing a blind area - made of concrete and tiles, rubble stone, etc.

This design drains water perfectly.

Soft hidden blind area

Modern waterproofing materials allows you to avoid making a protective coating around the house. They effectively retain and drain water, while the cost of such a pie is much lower. In this case, they talk about a hidden blind area. And all because right from the foundation you can sow grass or arrange a flower garden, and all the layers that drain water are located in the thickness of the rock.

For device soft blind area profiled membranes are used. They have a nonlinear structure - small protrusions and depressions.

A soft blind area around the house is easy to implement with your own hands. The only thing that can cause some difficulties is the rather large volume earthworks. The width of the ditch is desirable from 1.2 m to 1.5 m. But the depth can be small - about 25-30 cm.

The procedure for installing a hidden soft blind area is as follows:

• First, the soil is removed and a slope of 3-5% from the house is immediately formed.
• They are treated with chemicals from plants.
• Roll out the profiled membrane over the entire width of the blind area, place one edge slightly onto the wall and secure it, the other is simply left free.
• A layer of geotextile is rolled out on top. It is laid in the same way - one edge is fixed to the wall. Both layers of waterproofing materials can be secured together with one clamping strip.
• Pebbles or a large fraction of screenings are poured onto the geotextile and crushed.
• The next layer is medium and fine screening, and sand on top. Each layer is compacted separately.
• poured on top fertile soil and plants are planted.

Despite the apparent unreliability, this design removes water even better than those made by traditional technologies. But, as you can see, the work is not complicated or expensive. If necessary, you can lay tiles or paving stones on a layer of sand. Then the look will be more traditional.

There is one caveat: if the soil on the site is clay (namely clay) or your house is on a slope, it will be necessary to supplement the structure drainage pipe. It is laid at a distance of 1.2-1.5 m from the wall of the house, at the level where the geotextile bevel ends (you can lower it a little lower). But at the same time, the membrane and geotextile must cover it from below and from the outer side, so that the collected moisture flows through the perforation into the pipe, and then through it to the sewer or drainage system.

Features of concreting

When installing concrete blind area around the house with your own hands, you need to take into account some of the subtleties of technology.

Firstly, the composition of the solution must be frost-resistant. It’s clear why. Can buy ready-made mixtures, but it's not cheap. You can use additives that increase the frost resistance of concrete. In the simplest case, add more cement. Make a solution at the rate of: one part cement, three parts sand and crushed stone.

Secondly, to avoid cracks, expansion joints must be made. For this, boards with a thickness of 25 mm are usually used. They are treated against rotting with hot drying oil or. Then they place it on the edge, setting the required slope, approximately every 2-3 meters. Secure with metal pins or wooden pegs. When pouring the solution, they can be used as beacons. In the future, the planks will ensure the mobility of the formwork during seasonal soil movements.

And thirdly, to give the surface greater strength and more aesthetically pleasing, it is sprinkled with dry cement, which is rubbed with a trowel. This is done after the filling is completed. This process is called ironing of concrete. The surface then becomes durable, smooth, with a slight shine.

Results

Setting up a blind area around the house with your own hands is not the easiest, but it’s also far from the most difficult task. There are many solutions that will improve the performance of a building and extend its service life.

Waterproofing the blind area will increase the strength of the structure, acting as the main element of reliable protection of the foundation and walls from the destructive effects of moisture. Right choice materials and phased implementation installation technology will provide a comfortable microclimate and increase the life of the home.

Waterproofing the blind area around the house will help drain groundwater and precipitation from the base and ensure a dry basement. It is recommended to make necessary work to create waterproofing in the area of ​​contact between the foundation plane and the soil, immediately after the construction of the structure.

High-quality waterproofing of the blind area will prevent the foundation and walls from getting wet, and the appearance of mold and mildew. Frequent penetration of moisture into the underlying soil area can change bearing capacity fundamentals, cause drawdown. Heaving soils can shift under the influence of water influx and lead to the destruction of the structure.

Protective role of the blind area

Waterproofing of the blind area and plinth will provide reliable protection from getting wet. A strong waterproof structure in the form of a strip around the entire building must be made with a slope that is directed from the house to the ground area.

The protective functions of the blind area are aimed at:

• ensure water drainage;
• prevent heaving and subsidence of the soil under the building;
• protect the root systems of plants and trees from penetrating into the foundation of the house.

Regulatory requirements for conducting construction work When building a house, a blind area is provided in accordance with the rules of laying technology. Structural element constantly exposed to external atmospheric influences, therefore, requires the creation of durable and reliable waterproofing.

Types of blind areas

The choice of type of blind area is determined by the amount of precipitation. It is also important to provide for drainage from the roof of the building, otherwise the surface will be directly exposed to water flows. The structure of the protective tape of the blind area consists of an underlying base and a covering.

There are several options for making a blind area:

• simple bulk (clay and crushed stone);
• bulk type, with the addition of waterproofing under the blind area;
• concrete (pouring with or without reinforcement);
• ready-made reinforced concrete slabs.

Waterproofing the blind area around the house will help strengthen the structure, making it more durable and resistant to moisture. It is not recommended to combine bulk options based on the use of clay and laying concrete.

Waterproofing materials

When choosing the type of waterproofing for the blind area around the house, the material for the work should take into account design features element. Sealing of the plane can be achieved by using:

1. Bitumen mastics. They are optimally suited for creating a protective surface on the foundation of a building, and are used for pouring bulk blind areas.
2. Roll materials. The film for waterproofing the blind area must be applied when installing it on the wall. It is recommended to combine rolled materials with the application of mastic to the surface to enhance the tightness of the coating.
3. Hydrocement (asphalt concrete). Solid slabs of the blind area will create a reliable water barrier against water flows.
4. Penetrating compounds (polymers). Used for surfaces with a porous structure, providing deep impregnation protective compounds. They are resistant to ultraviolet radiation and sudden temperature changes. Vapor permeability properties protect the surfaces of the material from the formation of mold and mildew.

Process of working with bituminous materials requires special care. The composition should be heated in a deep cauldron, avoiding liquid getting into the fire while wearing special protective clothing. It is strictly forbidden to ignore the rules of personal and fire safety. Initially, a low grade of bitumen is melted, completing the process with a higher grade. Violation of the rules will lead to strong foaming.

Painting options liquid waterproofing They are distinguished by the availability of material and ease of installation. The primer layer can be made using bitumen mastic. Next, a polymer, bitumen, or mixed type of composition is applied. If necessary, it is recommended to level and clean the surface to ensure the required degree of surface adhesion.

Treatment involves applying 2-3 layers of paint waterproofing. After the work is completed, the surface is checked for defects. Cracks and areas of swelling of the layer are cleaned and re-treated with the composition.

It is advisable to waterproof the blind area with rolled materials for soft-type construction options. The optimal coating would be polyvinyl chloride films. The area where the foundation adjoins the plinth can be treated using bitumen or polymer materials.

DIY waterproofing technology

The blind area is carried out in stages, strictly adhering to the sequence and rules of work. Initially, you will need to remove a layer of soil around the building at a distance of 130 cm. The clay blind area should be carried out by ensuring a tight connection to the foundation of the structure, thoroughly compacting the material.

Waterproofing the base of a blind area made of clay or crushed stone is done with bitumen compounds. It is recommended to cover the area where the structures meet with a strip of rolled material. It is important to create a surface slope of at least 10%. The waterproofing properties of the bulk blind area can be enhanced using a layer of waterproofing. Spraying with hot bitumen will enhance the adhesion of the materials. Finally, the surface is covered with crushed stone.

The film for waterproofing the blind area is used in the process of creating formwork when pouring concrete. Usage reinforced mesh will increase the strength of the structure. Concrete surface will act as additional protection from moisture. Waterproofing the junction of the blind area with the plinth when using ready-made concrete blocks is carried out using a bitumen composition. After pouring, slabs are laid on a base of crushed stone and sand.

Features of blind area waterproofing technology:

1. It is recommended to use solutions with moisture-proof properties at the construction stage.
2. Roll materials are used when base differences are no more than 2 mm.
3. In regions subject to heavy rainfall, it is advisable to supplement the blind area with a gutter to drain water.
4. Scrap should not be used as a filler, due to the likelihood of expansion and contraction of the material under the influence of temperature changes.
5. The depth of the blind area is selected individually, taking into account climatic conditions, groundwater level, and sewerage systems.
6. The use of a profiled membrane can be an alternative to making a concrete blind area. Surface decoration with any type of finishing coating is available.

A properly executed blind area should combine protective and decorative properties. Surface design will increase the strength of the structure and add completeness to the architectural design of the building.