In this article I will tell you in detail how to install plastic windows with your own hands. I will give some instructions for installing windows, which includes dismantling the old window and all the details of how to properly install plastic windows in an old or new window opening.

Does it make sense to install plastic windows yourself?

I’ll say right away that there is nothing complicated about how to install a plastic window yourself. This does not require special skills or expensive professional equipment. The technology for installing plastic windows is quite simple and consists of dismantling the old window and installing a new one. In terms of time, dismantling an old window takes from 30 to 90 minutes, and installing a new one in its place plastic window another average of 2 hours (average window, up to 2x2 m in size). In total, it will take you 2.5-3.5 hours to replace one window. Agree, this is not much. So, if you wish, in approximately one weekend, you can replace the windows yourself, changing 2-3 windows a day. The savings will be about $40-60 per window. This is how much window replacement services cost today. Sometimes the price for installation is set as a percentage of the cost of new windows and amounts to different regions and companies from 10 to 40% of the cost of new metal-plastic windows. Dismantling the old window and delivering a new one, as well as finishing the slopes, if you order installation of new windows from them, are most often done free of charge.

If you nevertheless decide to entrust the installation of windows to builders, then below I will list the guarantees that you have the right to demand:

• if you buy windows yourself not from installation organization, then you can only be given a guarantee on: seams, their filling (foam, silicone), verticality and horizontality of the corresponding parts and the operability of the window for about a year after installation;
• if you buy windows at the same place where you order installation work, then you will also be provided with a warranty on the fittings, on average it is 1 year, maximum 3-5 years for luxury expensive windows.

When you install windows yourself, you have the right to request a warranty on the fittings from the organization where you buy the windows. And the responsibility for the seams and their filling remains with you.

I will say one thing for sure, if you have one free weekend, hard work and a desire to save money, then following the recommendations that I will describe below, you will be able to replace the windows in your home no worse than any installation team. Moreover, the word “crew” is applicable to the installation of windows, which is very conditional. Since, in fact, the installation is carried out by 1 person, and another one simply supplies the tools and holds the window at the right moment.

Correct measurement of a plastic window

To order plastic windows from the seller, you need to make preliminary measurements.

To do this, you first need to determine what kind of window opening you have - with or without a quarter. For clarity, in the figure below I show a schematic view of the opening with a quarter (A) and without (B).

Scheme of a window opening with and without a quarter

We measure windows without a quarter

Installation of windows without a quarter occurs as follows. If your house is new, then the windows are installed in an empty window opening. And in order to order a window, you need to subtract 5 cm from the vertical size of the opening - this will be the height of your window. And subtract 3 cm from the horizontal size of the opening - this will be the width of your window. Subsequently, when self-installation these 3 cm windows will be filled polyurethane foam(1.5 cm on each side of the window). And 5 cm is 1.5 cm from the top of the window to fill with polyurethane foam and 3.5 cm to the window sill under the window.

You also need to take measurements of the length and width of the window sill and the external ebb and add at least 5 cm to these dimensions so that the window sill “crashes” a little on the right and left into the wall. For an inexperienced installer, you can take 20-30 cm as a reserve; the excess is cut off during installation. In general, window sills and ebbs come in a standardized width (10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60 cm) and length (up to 6 m), but you, in any case, must provide the minimum dimensions so that they bring you the most suitable window sill and ebb from available.

We measure windows and a quarter

We measure the size of the window opening horizontally between the quarters at the very bottleneck. Add 3 cm to this size (1.5 cm on each side of the window). This will be the width of our window. And vertically we simply measure the distance from the bottom of the opening to the upper quarter, we do not add or subtract anything to it. This will be the vertical size of our window. We measure the window sill and ebb in the same way as in the version of the opening without a quarter.

Thus, we get 6 sizes:

• window height;
• window width;
• window sill length;
• window sill width;
• tide length;
• low tide width.

Plastic window sizes

If your house is not new, and window opening If the old window is still installed, measurements are taken in the same way. Only for the window opening, you take the outer dimensions of the window frame, since it will need to be dismantled.

When ordering a window, be sure to check whether the package includes:

• windowsill;
• Plugs are provided for plastic window sills. When ordering them, you must indicate what the width of the window sill (overhang from the wall) will be. There are 300 and 600 mm, but this is the total length, this includes two ends on one leg, and if, for example, the total length of the overhangs does not exceed 300 mm, then a plug will suit you - a 300 mm plug;
• installation profile (also known as mounting profile, sweet clover, heel, window sill profile, etc.);
• fastening elements for windows - anchor plates.

If not, they must be ordered separately.

Also, when ordering a window, in addition to its dimensions, you will also be asked such important characteristics, How:

• window profile type: 3, 4 or 5 chamber;
• type of double-glazed window: 1, 2, 3-chamber;
• window opening method: blind, with opening, tilt-and-turn with ventilation, tilt-and-turn with ventilation and micro-ventilation.

Methods for installing plastic windows, their pros and cons

Today, there are two ways to install metal-plastic windows: installation of windows with unpacking and installation without unpacking the window.

Diagram of a plastic window

So, the method of installing a window with unpacking involves preliminary disassembly of the window: the glazing beads are removed, the double-glazed windows are removed from the frame and put aside while the window frame is being installed, then the frame is attached to the wall through dowels, after which the double-glazed windows and glazing beads are installed back.

Installation of a window with "unpick"

Installation without unpacking does not require the removal of double-glazed windows and glazing beads, since the frame is not attached to the wall through and through, but with the help of fasteners pre-fixed on its outer surface.

Installing a window without "unpacking"

At the same time, the unpacking window installation method has several disadvantages.

For example, installation with unpacking sometimes leads to fogging of the glass unit during operation. Removal and reinstallation glazing beads, especially without such experience, is often reflected in their appearance (visible scratches, chips). During the installation of windows, double-glazed windows must be placed in a place that is safe for their integrity, otherwise they can be accidentally broken, especially if left near the installation site. The installation method itself is more labor-intensive and takes longer than installation without unpacking (on average, installing each window will take 30 minutes longer, and if you are installing plastic windows for the first time, then about 60 minutes).

Installing plastic windows without unpacking does not have the disadvantages listed above, since the double-glazed window does not need to be removed from the frame.

Now, regarding the strength of the fastening. The unpacking method is considered more durable, especially if you fasten the frame right through to the wall with large, long anchors. Therefore, it’s worth stopping at if:

1. You plan to install windows on the 15th floor of a multi-story building and above. On such high floors there is a lot of windage and gusts of wind, especially if the house borders on lower buildings. Below 15 floors you don't need to unpack the windows.
2. Your windows are very large (2x2 m or more), then it is better to choose the unpacking or combined method of fastening. Balcony block Can be attached without unpacking.

In private houses, where windows are usually installed in standard medium sizes, and the number of storeys rarely exceeds 4 floors, of course, it is better to choose the method of installing metal-plastic windows without unpacking. The fastening strength without unpacking will be more than enough.

And given that our site is dedicated to issues of private construction, then we will analyze in detail a method of attaching a plastic window, which is more suitable for low-rise construction - without unpacking.

Window installation tool

• screwdriver;
• level;
• spray foam gun;
• polyurethane foam at the rate of 1-3 cylinders per 1 window (it’s difficult to say exactly, as it depends on the size of the window and the filling of the cylinder);
• perforator;
• silicone gun;
• set of hexagons;
• jigsaw;
• stationery knife;
• pencil;
• roulette.

Sequence of installation of plastic windows

In order to understand how to install a window correctly, go to I will briefly list the main stages of installation, after which we will dwell in detail on the main stages:

• dismantle the old window (with a window sill, if necessary);
• We prepare a new metal-plastic window for installation;
• we apply markings to the window frame in places of subsequent fastening;
• attach to window frame fasteners;
• we make recesses in the window opening in the places where the fasteners will be attached;
• We level the plastic window;
• we attach the window to the window opening;
• we attach the ebb (it can also be mounted at the very end);
• pre-adjust window fittings;
• foam the gaps between the frame and the window opening;
• install a window sill;
• We make final adjustments window fittings.

Removing the old window

1. On blind windows, remove the glazing beads, then the glass. On opening windows, remove the sashes from their hinges. If the glass in the sashes holds tightly, then the sashes can be removed directly with them. If the windows are very old, the frames move diagonally, then for safety reasons it is better to remove the glass from the sashes first.
2. We make cuts in several places of the frame. For this it is better to use a regular saw. Sometimes for such purposes they use a grinder with a circle on concrete (this will produce a lot of smoke). Very important! In this case, it is categorically impossible to cut with a regular circle on metal, as it can jam or even break. And considering that the disk spins at an average speed of about 7000 rpm, this is very, very dangerous. It is also strictly forbidden to insert a disc with teeth for wood into the grinder.

Making cuts when dismantling an old wooden window frame

Then we take it out piece by piece with a crowbar, a hammer drill with a spatula attachment, or other available tools.

Dismantling an old wooden frame using a hammer drill and a crowbar

Sometimes the wooden frame is left if it is in good condition. But it is better to dismantle it and attach it to the wall material. Then the size of the light window will be larger, and the fastening will be more reliable than to wood, and it will rot wooden frame over time it won't.

1. Dismantling old window sill. If it is wooden, then we treat it in the same way as with wooden frame: make a cut and remove it piece by piece with a crowbar. If it is concrete, then we break it with a jackhammer, if there is such a tool, if not, then with a hammer and a crowbar or, again, with a grinder with a circle on the concrete. If your window sills are concrete, in good condition, and they suit you, then you can leave them. But it is important to remember that a plastic window sill is “warmer”. Also, if you leave the old window sill, it almost always remains big gap between him and window frame and even if it is sealed with a mixture using a mesh, cracks are inevitable. In this case, there is only one way out - to cover the top of the window sill with tiles.
2. We clean the window opening from debris and dust.

Preparing a plastic window for installation

If the window is opening (not fixed), then during installation, the window must be in the closed position. This is very important, because if the window is open, for example, for ventilation, then the foam, which we will later fill the space between the frame and the window opening, will bend the frame in a semicircle. The window must remain closed for at least 12 hours after foaming. Then you can open it. To ensure that the window is definitely closed, it is advisable simply not to install the handle until the installation of the window is completed. Otherwise, one of your household members may unknowingly open the window when you leave for a couple of minutes. If there is no handle, then there will simply be nothing to worry about.

Do not remove the protective tape from the surface of the window until the window installation process is completed, and if you are finishing the slopes, then until the finishing work is completed.

Installation of a plastic window

1. We apply markings to the window frame in the places of subsequent fastening. Fastening is carried out on all 4 sides of the window frame every 70 cm. Sometimes they are fastened less frequently, but we do not recommend more than 100 cm. The indentation of the extreme fastener from the corner of the window frame is usually made in the range of 5-15 cm.The only thing is that you don’t have to attach the frame from below if you have a window with a stand profile.

Diagram and photo of the appearance of the stand profile

1. We attach fasteners to the window frame. The fasteners are attached to the window frame in such a way that the self-tapping screw is secured in the metal located inside the frame (a bent metal channel). For this purpose, it is better to take special screws - for metal (diameter 4 mm). They come with a drill at the end. If you use regular self-tapping screws, then first you need to make a hole in the frame with a drill with a diameter of 4 mm (4-5 cm long), and only then you can fix it fastener using a regular self-tapping screw with a diameter of 5 mm.If the windows are large (2x2 m or more), then the drill is 8 mm in diameter and the self-tapping screw is 12 mm in diameter.Special anchor plates can be used as fastening elements. Sometimes they are also mounted on U-shaped drywall hangers.

Fastening elements for installing a window into a window opening

But their cost is approximately the same - from $0.05 (for wholesale purchase) to $0.15, and the thickness of the metal is often different: the anchor plate is usually 1.1-1.5 mm thick, and the U-shaped suspension from 0.5 to 1 mm. The thicker the metal, the better, of course.

Fastening elements for a plastic window made from U-shaped hangers

1. We make recesses in the window opening in the places where the fasteners will be attached. To do this, we insert the frame with fasteners already attached to its surface into the window opening. In those places where the fasteners will be attached to the opening, we knock out recesses according to the size of the fasteners and to a depth of 2-4 cm (to the wall - brick or stone). We will drown the fasteners in them. We do this so that it will be easier to finish the slopes later. No need to add an extra layer plaster mortar to hide the fasteners.

Recesses knocked out in the window opening for fasteners

Important: If you have a window without a mounting strip, then when inserting it into the opening, you need to raise it to the height of the window sill, so that later the window sill can be placed under the frame, and not attached to the joint with the window frame. To do this, place blocks of wood, pieces of foam plastic or brick under the frame. If the window has a mounting strip, then this is not necessary. The mounting strip just raises the window frame to the height of the window sill. fasten mounting strip it is not necessary on the frame; it is usually supplied already attached.

1. We level the window. To do this, we place, for example, wooden wedges (blocks) under the frame in the right places. the right size). The wedges are always located strictly under the transverse parts of the frame: under the horizontal part along the line of the vertical ones, and vice versa. We place the wedges in the following sequence: First, the lower two, which will expose the lower edge and, accordingly, the upper one to the horizon.At this stage it is convenient to temporarily secure the top anchor plate to prevent the window from dangling. Then two on top that will secure the frame up and down. And only then, the remaining wedges left and right, and always on both sides, both below and above the window. If there is an impost, then it must also be wedged, and it is also necessary to control that everything vertical racks stood in the same plane. The longest part of the installation is setting up the wedges. As a result, the frame should be level both vertically and horizontally. This work is easier to do with two people: one holds the window, the other places wedges under the frame.

Installing a window by level

1. We attach the window to the window opening. After we have the window perfectly level, we can finally fix it in the window opening. Windows are usually secured with dowels, sometimes with anchors. Fastening with anchors is considered more durable, but also more expensive. So the choice is yours. I will say one thing - a dowel driven into concrete can withstand a load of 60 kilograms. So in this case, as for me, it is more than enough. Dowels are used with a diameter of 6-8 mm and a length of 75-80 mm. For fastening to wall materials such as hollow brick, shell rock and foam concrete, anchors with a diameter of 6-8 mm are used. For fastening to wood - self-tapping screws with a diameter of 8 mm.

1. We attach the ebb (it can also be mounted at the very end). It is advisable to install the sill under the window to prevent water seepage at the junction of the sill with the window frame. But if there is no way to fix the ebb under the frame, then we attach the ebb to the window frame with metal screws with a diameter of 4 mm and a length of 9 mm.
2. Pre-adjust window fittings. Window adjustment is done using hexagons in the area window hinges. As a result, the sash should open and close freely without touching the rest of the window. Plus, if you slightly open the door, it should not close on its own (as usually happens with a refrigerator door) or open, but should remain in the position in which you left it. Sometimes, when closing/opening a window, it may scratch in the places where the locking hardware is installed. To fix this, you just need to unscrew the screw on this element and move the element itself 0.5-1 cm higher or lower.

1. We foam the gaps between the frame and the window opening.

Filling construction foam space between frame and window opening

It is very important here that the filling is 100%, without voids or interruptions. At the same time, if the gap between the window and the opening is more than 2 cm, then it is advisable to foam it several times with a break of 1-2 hours. Then the expansion of the foam is not a “disastrous” factor. And it saves foam that would have to be cut off. If windows are installed at temperatures lower than +5 degrees, then winter or all-season foam should be used. If the temperature is above + 5 degrees, then regular summer polyurethane foam will do.

After the foam hardens, it must be protected from ultraviolet radiation. Since this can already be called part of the work on finishing the slope, this work can be postponed until the finishing of the slopes. But if you do not plan to finish them at all, or if you do, but later than in a month, then it is better to close the foam immediately, since under the open rays of the sun the foam will become unusable. We close it either strong cement-sand mortar(cement: sand - 1:2), or tile adhesive (for example, Ceresit SM 11), or with a special tape PSUL(vapor permeable self-expanding sealing tape). The only thing is that the tape is quite expensive (about $3 per sheet), so the first two options are more often used.

Window sill installation

1. Typically, window sills come in standard length and width, i.e. with a reserve in length and width. Therefore, first you need to trim it. To do this, you can use an electric jigsaw, grinder, or saw with small teeth.

Trimming the window sill to the desired level

1. Then we move the window sill to the stand profile (there should be one). Then we level the window sill, placing wooden blocks, pieces of eps, brick, or even laminate cuttings under it.

Installing a window sill by level

It is better to install the plugs so that they go into the wall. And it is advisable to glue them with super glue, since acrylic and silicone do not glue them.

As a result, your window sill should be level in two horizontal directions and not sag anywhere (check by pressing with your hand). Sometimes the window sill is installed with a slight slope away from the window. This is done so that condensation that may form on the window does not flow under the window. And if you do such a slope, then it is very small, only about 3 degrees.

Loading a plastic window sill with a heavy object

If the window sill is not weighted down, the foam will bend it upward.

Blowing construction foam into a cavity under a plastic window sill

1. 24 hours after foaming, cut off the remaining foam protruding from the cavity under the window sill with a regular stationery knife.

1. Sometimes, due to the unevenness of the window sill, after its installation there remains a small gap between the top of the window sill and the window frame. It needs to be filled with silicone. Immediately wipe off any remaining silicone with a rag. But considering that silicone sometimes turns black over time from fungus and spoils the appearance of the window and sill, it is better to prevent the appearance of such a gap. This can be done by screwing Z-shaped galvanized plates to the window sill profile before installing the window sill. By rehearsing with trimming the window sill, you can achieve a snug fit of the window sill. Also, such plates simplify the installation of the window sill.

Z-shaped galvanized steel plates to ensure a tight fit of the window to the frame

Final window adjustment

Now you can screw the handle to the window and remove the protective tape from its surface. If you still have to finish the slopes, then it is better to remove the protective tape after finishing them.

The most common mistakes when installing windows

There are few of them, but they all ultimately affect the service life of the window, as well as the ease of its use:

• The window is mounted with glazing beads facing outwards. This error leads to the fact that you can easily and silently enter the house by simply removing the glazing beads from the window and removing the double-glazed windows.
• The window is not leveled. As a result, the window opens and closes poorly.
• The polyurethane foam is not covered with anything and is left open under the influence of ultraviolet radiation. As a result, the foam becomes unusable.

Open polyurethane foam

• The measurements are taken incorrectly, or the window is simply mounted low, and the window sill ultimately does not fit under the window. It has to be joined to the window frame.
• The window is not secured with anything, simply filling the space between the window frame and the opening with polyurethane foam. If the opening is a quarter, then this leads, at most, to the appearance of cracks on the slopes, since fastening “on foam” cannot even be called fastening. Such a connection is mobile, especially over time. If the window is without a quarter, then as a result the window may simply fall out; I am personally familiar with one such example. So it’s important to remember - foam is not fastener. The window must withstand loads without foam.

I hope that this article will help you save on installing plastic windows in your home, and also do this simple job correctly and without errors so that your windows serve you for a long time. If you decide to turn to the services of an installation organization, then it will be easier for you to understand what the builders do at each stage of installation, which will allow you to control the process competently.

Attention: All prices are for 2011.

Technology for installing plastic windows in brick house differs from the rules for installing PVC profile products in concrete or panel walls. It is important to understand these differences and avoid mistakes before starting installation work.

Installation of plastic windows requires a set of tools and consumables.
Plastic windows in a brick house can be installed on anchor plates or bolts. Their size depends on the depth of the quarters into which the product will be attached, as well as the quality of the brick from which the walls are laid. It can be gas silicate, foam concrete, etc.

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If the installation is carried out in a secondary housing stock, before installing the window, you must first remove the old frame from the opening. To do this you will need:

• removing the sashes from their hinges;
• deleting the old one;
• dismantling the window sill and ebb;
• removal of roofing felt and tow, once used to insulate the opening;
• chipping old plaster if it is necessary to align the geometry of the opening.

To dismantle you will need a small crowbar. If the frames are quite massive, then to facilitate the breaking process you can use hand saw woodworking or jigsaw.
To drill holes for fasteners, you will need a hammer drill, and to attach the frame to anchors, you will need a screwdriver. Will still be needed construction knife with replaceable blades, level, good quality construction guns for foam and sealant.

What materials are needed to install a plastic window?

Installing plastic windows is a multi-stage process. At each stage it is necessary to use various consumables:

• mounting wedges;
• professional foam;
• PSUL or acrylic sealant;
• water vapor barrier tapes;
• anchor plates or bolts.
• cyacrine;
• sealant.

Mounting wedges are needed to level the level; if necessary, they are placed under the stand profile.
Polyurethane foam- insulating material for filling assembly seam, T.

space between the wall and the window frame. Professional pistol foam must correspond to the temperature conditions of the season in which it is planned to install the plastic window.
PSUL (pre-compressed self-expanding sealing tape) is glued along the perimeter of the window frame and expands from the street side of the seam - from the quarter edge of the frame. By appearance resembles gray foam rubber. If there are no quarters, you will need a special acrylic sealant.
A waterproofing tape made of membrane material is placed under the flashing to provide ventilation and protect the bottom seam from moisture.
Sealant is necessary to fill the seams where the window sill joins the slopes and the window frame.

How to attach a window to an opening?

The rules for installing plastic windows are explained in detail by GOST R 52749-2007 “Window installation seams with vapor-permeable self-expanding tapes. Specifications" This state standard prescribes that before you begin installing a window in an opening, stick PSUL around its perimeter.
This self-expanding material is an independent installation layer that cannot be covered with plaster, putty, or paint over. Otherwise, the insulating material will not perform its functions.
When inserting a frame into a window opening, you should adhere to the tolerances. The deviation of the window frame in the horizontal and vertical plane should be no more than 1.5 mm per 1 m of length, but no more than 3 mm over the entire height of the window.

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The frame is attached to brick wall By following rules:

• from internal corner the vertical distance between the frame and the first fastening element should not exceed 150-180 mm;
• from the impost to the horizontal fasteners, this distance is recommended to be 120-180 mm;
• vertical placement of anchors - with a gap of 700 mm for windows made of white plastic and 600 mm for laminated profiles.
  

  The inserted block must be checked for deviation from the level and foamed around the perimeter.

Assembly seam construction

PSUL around the perimeter and foam insulation are only 2 parts of the three-layer filling of the installation seam described by GOST.
After foaming the frame, it is necessary to remove the installation mounting wedges from under the stand profile and fill the resulting voids with foam. For better adhesion inner surface The window opening can be moistened with a spray before foaming.
Before installing the low tide outside a waterproof, vapor-permeable tape should be applied. The ebb is screwed to the stand profile with self-tapping screws. The edges of the ebb should be folded onto the outer slopes to avoid moisture getting under it.
WITH inside A vapor barrier is glued around the perimeter of the window (except for the lower horizontal part of the frame), which provides an additional sealing layer to the installation seam and insulates it from moisture. This tape is available in various widths and can be applied both under wet finishing of slopes (plaster) and dry finishing (slopes made of polystyrene foam or plastic). Released and universal tapes downhill.
A vapor barrier is also installed under the window sill board: full-butyl tape with a foil layer.

Assembling the installed window

The frame installed in the opening and foamed around the perimeter must be assembled.

Double-glazed windows are inserted into blind, non-opening parts. To glaze (fasten) installed double glazed window, you will need a medium sized Plexiglas hammer. The beads are cut at an angle of 45° and inserted into the frame around the perimeter of the glass unit with some force. In order for the glazing bead to finally snap into place, it must be lightly knocked down with a hammer.
If installed window unit has opening doors, you need to hang them on hinges. This task is not difficult to cope with, since modern window fittings are very easy to use.
But putting the sash in place is not enough. You should check its functionality and, if necessary, adjust it in the hinge part using a special adjusting key.

To check how accurately a plastic window is level, you need to open the sash. If it does not slam shut or open wider by inertia, it means the block is installed correctly.

Installing the window sill and slopes

The installation of wooden windows, like plastic ones, cannot be considered complete if the window sill is not installed. The window sill board snaps into place and is attached to the stand profile.
If, during dismantling, voids are identified under the window, you can fill them with insulation, for example, rolled or tiled, and then install a window sill.
For final finishing opening, you need to understand how to properly install the slopes. They can be plastered or assembled from sandwich panels made of expanded polystyrene foam.
With the latter option, the panels are cut to size locally, taking into account the geometry of each slope. A U-shaped plastic profile, otherwise called a starting profile, is screwed to the frame close to the slopes. A panel is inserted into it. The voids foam.
Foam is a polyurethane foam sealant that, due to its properties, requires a certain amount of time to fully expand and harden. Typically from 1 to 24 hours.
Sandwich panels are closed where they meet the wall decorative profile, most often F-shaped.

The junctions of the slopes and the frame to the window sill are sealed with sealant.

Who should you trust to install the window?

Mount a PVC profile window and install wooden window- not the same thing. Installing windows in a brick house involves certain nuances. You need to have everything on hand necessary tool, including adjusting keys for window fittings, as well as a supply of fasteners and special mounting tapes.

It is equally important to choose the right mounting foam and sealant. As an alternative to the latter, so-called liquid plastic can be used. This is a special adhesive-sealant that hardens very quickly, but also creates a particularly strong sealed seam.

If you are not sure that you can handle the installation yourself, it is better to seek the help of specialists.

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Today I will tell you how to install 8 plastic windows and an entrance door with your own hands in one day. To perform this work you will not need special skills or expensive equipment. But, of course, there are many nuances that are definitely worth paying attention to. And of course there are several secrets on how to save money when ordering.

I used the optimal ones thermal characteristics windows with four chambers window profile and double-glazed windows, as well as a reinforced entrance door. By the way, it was the door that made up almost half of the cost of the order. And the total costs amounted to 40 thousand rubles for the set and another 4.5 thousand rubles for delivery. How to buy windows at the same price is at the end of the article.

Let's get started!

2. We have a newly built aerated concrete house, in which we need to install 8 windows and one entrance door. First of all, we take all dimensions from the openings. As you remember, I made overhead quarters around the perimeter of the openings on three sides (a quarter is not needed at the bottom - the window sill will be there). For the quarters, I used standard 5 cm thick aerated concrete blocks, which were installed, like the rest of the masonry, on polyurethane foam. The recess of windows during installation should be at least 1/3 of the wall thickness. It is also worth noting that you should not try to make openings under standard sizes windows - their production technology is automated and there is no difference in cost between standard size or a custom window. We calculate the final window dimensions taking into account the following factors. On the side and top from the frame to the wall there should be a gap of 1 to 2 centimeters on each side, which will be filled with polyurethane foam. At the bottom of all windows from the factory there is a 3 centimeter high stand profile, which is needed for convenient installation window sill. Plus, under the delivery profile there should also be a gap of about 1 centimeter for the mounting foam. Total, roughly speaking from internal dimensions the opening needs to be subtracted 4 centimeters horizontally and 6 centimeters vertically. You shouldn’t get too carried away and push the frame into the opening without a gap, because... It will be extremely inconvenient to pour polyurethane foam into a gap of less than 5 mm.

3. It is important to know that opening sections greatly increase the cost of the construction of any window. Therefore, if the goal is to save money, you need to make the most of fixed, non-opening windows. In case of suburban one-story house there is no problem going outside to wash the windows, and for ventilation you can make an opening transom (due to the design features, it is several times cheaper than a tilt-and-turn mechanism, but at the same time its width should be significantly greater than its height, more precisely, its height cannot exceed 50 centimeters). The advantage of the blind section is also that you don’t lose effective area glazing. In my case, there are 5 blind windows measuring 60x60 cm, two blind panoramic windows 1.4x1.7 meters, one tilt-and-turn window 0.6x1.3 meters and an entrance door with partial glazing 0.9x2.3 meters. The above price includes the windows and door only (including hinges, handles and locks). Separately, I needed to purchase anchor plates, dowels, self-tapping screws, PSUL sealing tape, polyurethane foam, window sills and ebbs for a total of 3.5 thousand rubles.

4. We will need: a screwdriver with a concrete drill, polyurethane foam with a gun, PSUL tape, fastening plates, dowels for aerated concrete and self-tapping screws. Also not in the frame bubble level. Once again I want to draw your attention to the fact that measuring instrument You can't save money.

5. There are two ways to secure the window frame: through fastening with unpacking of double-glazed windows and using anchor plates. The first method requires more time and skills. In particular, you will need to carefully remove the glass unit from the frame and then install it in place. The glazing beads that hold it are usually fixed very firmly and in order not to scratch the edges you will need a special spatula and patience. Plus if we're talking about about installation with two hands, then with large windows the problem will be that the removed double-glazed window cannot be tilted, unlike the frame in which it is installed. In addition, through-mounting requires precise fixation when drilling and an assistant will definitely be required. Much easier installation carried out on mounting plates. Each such plate costs 10 rubles. They need to be installed at the rate of 1 plate for every 50 centimeters. The plate is installed by turning it in the groove of the frame and fixed using a self-tapping screw with a drill (to drill metal carcass inside the frame).

6. After this, PSUL tape is glued to the outside of the frame on all sides except the base - a pre-compressed sealing tape. It is used when installing a window in an opening with quarters. The purpose of the tape is to protect the polyurethane foam from ultraviolet radiation and therefore destruction. In the cold season, it is easier to install windows, because... the tape expands very slowly in the cold.

7. A six-meter roll of PSUL tape costs 140 rubles. When fixing the tape on outside It is preferable to step back 1-1.5 cm from the edge of the frame, especially if you have deep quarters. This should be done so that when pouring polyurethane foam between the frame and the wall, it does not get on the PSUL tape.

8. Now we move on to the window opening. Its geometric dimensions are ideal, and its base perfectly matches the horizon. This happens naturally when building with aerated concrete if you follow the technology and level each next row of masonry to zero. I started the installation with small blind windows and they differ from the others in that they will not have window sills. Therefore, we will not use the stand profile. To support the frame on the base of the opening I use a piece of laminate 7 mm thick.

9. Place the window and mark the location for the mounting holes. We drill and install special screw dowels for aerated concrete. It is worth paying special attention that you should not try to hammer them in with one blow, especially if they are located close to the edge of the block - there is a risk of breaking off a piece of the block. After this, we insert self-tapping screws through the mounting plates.

10. Our next task is to install the side window vertically. In the case of small windows this will not be difficult, because... there will be no skewing of the window diagonally and it is enough to take measurements at any point of the frame. After this, we tighten the screws on the fastening plates and remove the piece of laminate at the base. Any window must be fixed so firmly that it can be held in the opening solely by the mounting plates. Polyurethane foam is used primarily for filling voids and thermal insulation, and not for mechanically fixing the frame in the opening.

11. You will have to tinker with large windows. Each one weighs more than 80 kilograms and will not be easy to lift into the opening alone. I built a staircase from blocks and gradually raised the window 5 centimeters upward. I used 9 mounting plates for each window. 3 on each side, except the bottom. Here you need to pay closer attention to the verticality of the frame and apply a level in all corners. On large windows At the bottom there is a support profile in which the window sill will be installed. Directly below the support profile I also placed a laminate plate, which was removed immediately after fixing the anchor plates to the wall.

12. The tilt-and-turn window is 2 times smaller in size, but for it I decided to use 8 anchor plates, because an open sash will add load to the frame. On average, it takes about 30 minutes to install one window. And a very serious mistake that most people make - protective film must be removed from the frame immediately after installation. Even if you installed the windows at the beginning of the renovation, the film must be removed immediately. If this is not done, then it will be more difficult to tear it off, and the plastic will burn out unevenly (this is important for the outside of the frame).

13. Let's move on to front door. This is a reinforced door with 3 hinges with a full frame around the perimeter. Opening inward is much more convenient than opening outward. But most people have a stereotype that the door should be opened outwards. When installing door frame the most important thing is to ensure a uniform fit around the perimeter. I used 10 anchor plates to secure the door. Special attention It is worth paying attention to the verticality of the side walls of the door frame in two planes. For reliability, the fixation of each anchor plate can be supplemented with a second self-tapping screw. As with windows, the door should be fully functional when held in place only by anchor plates. It should not warp when opened and it should fit snugly around the perimeter when closed.

14. Now we take a gun with polyurethane foam. The presence of a pistol is mandatory because it allows you to regulate the volume of foam output. There are nuances with foam that you definitely need to know. First, the foam is afraid of ultraviolet radiation and must be protected from sunlight. For this purpose, there is PSUL tape on the outside of the window; on the inside, it is necessary to plaster the slopes or, as an option, paint over it. As for applying foam, it absolutely cannot be trimmed. The shell that has formed on it protects the internal open cellular structure from moisture absorption and subsequent destruction. Therefore, the seam between the frame and the wall should be filled exactly to the extent that the excess does not protrude outward. It is important not to overdo it with deepening the gun nozzle, because... do not forget that on the outside we have PSUL tape and it should not come into contact with fresh foam. Approximately 5-10 minutes after filling the seams with foam, you should visually check its condition and, if necessary, carefully compact it (before it hardens, this is easy to do). If work is carried out at temperatures below +5 degrees, it is imperative to use special winter foam.

15. Next, install the fittings and check how the windows open. If the window opens poorly or jams, this is a sign that errors were made when installing the window. Most likely, the frame is not strictly vertical in all corners. This can be corrected by adjusting the hinges and lock.

16. Done! The windows and door should be left for a day until the foam completely hardens. And we move on to the finishing stage.

17. Let's take it plastic window sills 20 centimeters deep. In total, I need 3 window sills: two 140 cm and one 70 cm. A finished window sill 150 cm long cost me only 200 rubles. We cut off the excess using a jigsaw and install it under the frame in the stand profile. It is worth keeping in mind that the depth of the window sills into the frame is 2 centimeters; this is important when choosing the depth. Before installation, do not forget to remove the protective film around the perimeter. We install the window sill either strictly horizontally or with a slight (1 degree) slope from the window.

18. We cover the edges with special plates, which should be glued with superglue. As a support when setting the level, you can use cuttings from the window sill itself or wooden block. After this, we weigh the window sill from above so that the mounting foam does not lift it up. And fill the entire plane of the base with foam from below. Just as with window frames, you should control the expansion of the foam and prevent it from having to be cut with a knife. Just tamp it down until it hardens.

19. The final chord is the installation of low tides. We cut it to length, fix it to the window frame using self-tapping screws (after having coated the joint silicone sealant), fill the base with polyurethane foam and load it.

20. Done! Don’t forget to remove the protective film from the frames, window sills and ebbs. There is nothing complicated about installing windows and you can handle this amount of work alone. By doing this work with my own hands, I saved more than 15 thousand rubles on installation.

Now comes the fun part. The Chertanovo office of the Okna Rosta company decided that there should be a discount on windows not only for me, but for all readers of my blog. Therefore, we made an exclusive promotion for ordering plastic windows. The minimum discount of 33% is relevant for everyone who is ready to independently measure and install plastic windows.

All the details are here -

If you are planning to replace or install new windows, you will need to learn the installation process. It all depends on how you will install the windows: either with your own hands or by hiring a third-party company. It takes approximately 4 hours to dismantle and install the structure if you do not have experience in this matter. For a company employee who does this often, such work will not take more than an hour. But installing tilt-and-turn windows yourself requires some construction skills.

Window system components

Before you begin installation, you need to understand the nuances and details. First, you should find out all the names of parts and materials. The main load-bearing part is the frame. In the version of plastic windows, its production is carried out from plastic profile, which can be single-chamber, double-chamber, etc. A special insert is placed in the center of the structure to ensure rigidity. IN plastic systems This insert is made of plastic; metal is used in metal-plastic ones.

The profile system is assembled from 2 or more chambers

In addition, the profile is divided into classes: premium, standard and economy. All profiles manufactured at the plant are subject to certain standards. If you want to make a choice in favor of good tilt-and-turn windows, take the standard class. In terms of color, white windows are most often found, but other colors can be used: wood, brown. Products made from colored profiles will be more expensive than white ones.

Components of a plastic window

Main element window block - frame

The design of a plastic window includes the following parts:

• frame – the main structural part;
• if you have big window, most often it is separated by a vertical partition, there may be several of them - it all depends on the choice of design;
• the part that is motionless is called blind, and the part that opens is called the sash;
• double-glazed windows can have different properties, for example, tinted, energy-saving, reinforced, using inert gas. In addition, they are single-layer, two-layer, three-layer or multi-layer - the choice is great;
• In order for the glass to hold securely, they are pressed with a bead, which is a thin plastic strip. Used for sealing rubber compressor, most often black;
• fittings are always used - this is a special set of tilt-and-turn mechanisms that help open and close the doors and provide various functionality;
• in addition, seals are needed to ensure the tightness of the entire structure;
• Ventilated holes for drainage are made on the inside of the frame, which are covered with caps. Moisture generated by differences temperature regime on the street and inside the room, gets out through them;
• another part of the structure is the ebb - it is mounted outside, and the window sill is installed from the inside;
• parts located on the side of the frame are finished with slopes.

Is it possible to install the window yourself?

There is an opinion that installing windows in a house or apartment is a rather complicated procedure. It must be said that this is not so. What do you need to know during installation? To perform these works you do not need special professional tools and equipment, vast experience. The procedure includes two main points:

• dismantling the old window unit;
• installation of a new window.

Removing an old window takes an average of 1.5 hours

If we talk about the time required to complete the work, the first stage will require approximately an hour and a half. Installing windows yourself will take less than three hours. It must be said that if you nevertheless decide to opt for the services of specialists, then you should demand certain guarantees from them.

If you installed the tilt and turn windows yourself, this will void your warranty. In this case, it is necessary to purchase structures directly from a manufacturer who has been working on the market for a long time, has good feedback from clients. If you decide to buy single-chamber or double-chamber windows in winter period, you can always count on a significant discount.

When a window is purchased from a company that also carries out installation work, the customer has a warranty on the fittings for about 5 years. If you install it yourself, you can get a warranty directly from the manufacturer, that is, at the place of purchase.

In order to install windows in a brick house, cinder block house, gas block house or apartment, you must first order a tilt-and-turn or blind structure from the manufacturer, and this requires accurate measurements.

Step-by-step instructions for correct measurements

When you place an order, you will be asked to indicate the following dimensions: the width and height of the structure, the width and length of the slope and window sill.

Before ordering a window, you must take correct measurements of the structure.

Before you start measuring, don't miss important point– what type of opening do you have: with or without a quarter. Look carefully at the window opening: if the outer part is narrower, it means there is a quarter-sized opening in front of you. The measurement is carried out as follows: you need to measure the narrowest part, you will need to measure in several places, find the smallest value, add 3 cm to it. The height is indicated as it is. If your opening is even, then the measurements are done as follows: after measuring the width, subtract 3 cm; measuring the height, minus 5 cm. Read a detailed article about.

Before taking measurements, you need to determine the type of window: with or without a quarter

To determine the size of the window sill, you need to add about 10 cm to the width of the opening inside the window. For low tide, the same is done, only along the outer part of the window. Everyone chooses the width for the window sill for themselves: it is better if it protrudes slightly beyond the radiator.

In addition, when placing an order, you need to decide which components your design will be made: what options for two-, three- or single-leaf windows do you need, how they will open, on which side the capercaillie is located. Don’t forget to decide on the type of fittings (handles, locks, ventilation mechanisms).

If you order several designs at the same time, then the width of all openings may be different, but the height should be the same, you need to choose the most small size. Please note that window openings can be located at different distances from the floor. In apartments, the distance from the floor to the window is approximately 80 cm, while on the balcony the windows can be from the floor. Accommodation in a private house can generally be anything at the discretion of the owners.

Features of measurements for glazing balconies

To determine the width of the glass structure, it is necessary to measure the length of the part of the balcony on which the balcony window will be installed, minus 7 cm on each side. This distance will be required for installation corner profile, to which the structures of the side elements of the balcony are attached. The height is calculated as the distance from the support to the roof on the balcony or loggia, and a tolerance of 3 cm must be subtracted for the gap.

How to correctly measure windows in a country house

For correct measurement size of the structure in a private house, knock out part of the slopes on both sides. Very often it turns out that the window opening is much larger than the window that is installed in it. This means that when the structure is dismantled, some of the materials with which the space was filled will also be removed.

Preparing to install a window structure

After you remove the old window, you will need to inspect the resulting opening, remove all parts that may fall off or collapse; if there are protruding elements, they should be knocked down. Then clean the opening from construction debris and dust. If there are large depressions, it is better to cover them with cement. You can also treat everything with primer.

The base will need to be cleaned before installation.

Having finished working with the opening, you need to prepare the PVC window, which is to be installed. To do this, you need to remove the window sashes; if it is solid, double-glazed windows. If your frame has small dimensions, then you can install it without removing the double-glazed windows and sashes. The outer part of the frame should be freed from the film that protects it.

Installation Technology Guide

The finished plastic window is brought into the opening, placed on support blocks and aligned horizontally. After this, using a level, the window is aligned vertically and secured in this position with spacer blocks.

Installation of both fixed windows and opening sashes is the same. There are two options for installing windows: with and without expansion of the structure. When using the first option, holes are drilled through the frame through which anchor bolts are driven into the wall. This method is more complex and more reliable.

When installing a window using the unpacking method, holes are drilled in the frame and wall, into which anchors are then driven in.
Places for attaching anchors and support blocks

If the installation is carried out without unpacking the frame, the window is fastened using special ones, which are attached to the profile and then to the wall. This option is faster. However, it must be taken into account that under significant wind loads, the frame structure may warp or it may sag. If you decide to mount it on a plate, you should choose thick, wide options. Please note that if the region in which you live has a strong wind load or windows will be installed at a height, then you should use the option of unsealing the frame.

Mounting on anchor plates

There are nuances to placing a window in the opening. If the walls are made of foam blocks, brick, cinder block, gas silicate or concrete, then the frame is placed 2/3 deep from the internal thickness of the opening. If the walls are insulated with foam plastic, then the fastening must be done before the insulating layer. When insulating and facing with bricks, the window is installed in the insulation zone.

It is very important to choose the correct installation depth

The installation sequence must be followed:

• Having inserted the frame, level it using support and spacer blocks;
• then attach it to the wall;
• after installing the structure, it is necessary to assemble the window;
• then you need to check the normal operation of the shutters and all mechanisms; to do this, open and close the window;
• after everything has been checked, the doors must be tightly closed and the gap around the structure must be sealed. For this purpose they use .

However, it must be remembered that in direct contact with sunlight and external environment the material loses its properties and collapses. To protect it, you need to create, this can be a special film that needs to be glued to the outside and inside of the window. After the foam has dried, it is necessary to finish the slopes on both sides (external, internal) of the structure. You can open the window a day after blowing the gap with foam.

To ensure proper installation on both windows and windows, follow these simple rules:

• we install the ebb from the outside in a special slot in the frame or attach it to it with self-tapping screws;
• the window sill is installed as follows: it is necessary to trim it from the edges so that it fits the width of the window opening and rests against the end of the stand profile;
• the level is leveled using special pads, after which the space under the window sill is blown with foam or filled with mortar.

According to the principle described above, windows are installed on a balcony or loggia, in brick or concrete walls. However, keep in mind that the entire weight of the window structure will be carried by the parapet, so you need to strengthen it.

Mistakes you can make when installing windows

There are a number of points that you should pay attention to when installing the structure so that it has a long service life:

• you cannot install the window with the glazing beads facing outward, as this reduces the structure’s burglary resistance, since the glazing bead can easily be pulled out and the glass unit removed;
• you need to be careful about leveling the structures when installing the window, otherwise opening and closing the sashes will be difficult;
• It is imperative to protect the mounting foam from direct sunlight to avoid its destruction;
• It would be wrong to choose to fix the frame structure only with mounting foam: it is absolutely necessary to attach it to the wall, otherwise it may simply fall out.

By following all installation rules, you can successfully install window design yourself, and if you seek the services of professionals, you will be able to monitor their work at any stage.

Hi all, dear readers! Since we receive many questions about window installation, we decided to prepare an article about the correct installation of windows according to GOST, so that you can check the quality of the work yourself after installation team. We hope the article will be useful.

When we buy a window, we hope that it will serve us for many years. But over time, we notice that first it begins to blow from it, and then openly blow. The slopes become covered with cracks, black fungus appears in the corners, and in winter the flowers freeze on the windowsill.

As a rule, it all comes down to improper installation of the window. In this article we will talk about existing installation technology. Let's dwell on the correct installation of the window and consider what materials are best to use.

The first step is to prepare the opening, clean it of dust and dirt. If the opening has uneven surfaces, they must be leveled using putty.

First, the sash is removed. This is done as follows. It is necessary to open the window, remove the pin from the top hinge and remove the sash. Then it is removed, taped at the junction with the frame with psul tape and installed back.

Preparing a balcony block for installation using technology is similar to preparing a window. The joints of the frames, according to technological requirements, are glued with Psul tape and covered with a joining profile and taped again. The frames are then connected to each other using a joining profile.

Correct installation is the key to success

In accordance with the standards and requirements of GOST, in windows made of white PVC, the distance between fastenings should be no more than 700 mm. and 150-180 mm from the inner corner of the frame. The diameter of the drill must be less than the diameter of the screw.

Holes for connection are drilled in the frames. Self-tapping screws are inserted into these holes and the frames are twisted. When fastening the structure with anchor dowels, holes in the frame are drilled in advance. According to GOST, there should be 150-180 mm from the frame corner. Between fasteners no more than 700 mm. Holes for dowels are drilled from the outside of the frame.

Then support blocks are placed under the frames. The support blocks can be made of hardwood or plastic. Next, the structure must be inserted into the opening and the frame must be secured with pillows. Then you need to take a level and use it to level the window structure horizontally, helping with support blocks and cushions.

After horizontal alignment, the frame must be aligned vertically relative to the facade using the same level and cushions. On the outside, it is necessary to mark the place where the PSUL tape (vapor-permeable self-expanding sealing tape) will be glued. After marking, the frame is removed.

If you plan to finish the slopes PVC panels, then you need to snap the starting profile for the slopes onto the frame.

With a shift of 5 mm. From the marks applied, a psul tape is glued to the outside of the frame. First on top part, then to the sides.

PSUL– pre-compressed sealing tape – used to connect a vapor-tight water-repellent layer to the outside of the assembly seam.

On the inside, to protect the installation seam from moisture, it is necessary to stick a full-butyl vapor barrier inner tape and secure it in the corners. Then the structure must be placed back in the opening and finally leveled using cushions and support blocks.

After this, holes are drilled in the wall for the dowels and vertical spacer blocks are inserted on the sides of the frame and the window is secured.

After securing the window, you can hang the sashes. Next stage- This is insulation of the window seam with polyurethane foam. For high-quality sealing, it is better to use professional foam for a gun with low secondary expansion. Before applying the foam, you need to moisten the opening with a spray bottle.

Shake the foam canister thoroughly and fill the openings to 70% of their depth. Seams larger than 5 mm are filled with foam in several layers.

If the window is installed in winter, then it is necessary to use frost-resistant materials and winter foam. 15-20 minutes after applying the foam, it is necessary to close the inner tape. A metallized vapor barrier tape is installed under the window sill. On the outside, an external diffusion vapor-permeable tape is installed under the ebb. The window is installed.

Finishing a plastic window after installation

After the plastic window is installed, you can begin the process of decorating it, i.e. installation of slopes and ebbs.

End caps are put on the pre-sawn ebb. To reduce noise from rain, it is recommended to apply full-butyl tape at low tide. Then the ebb is attached to the frame using self-tapping screws.

The window sill is installed as follows. Special brackets are attached to self-tapping screws under the window to simplify installation of the window sill. The space under the future window sill is lightly foamed with mounting foam so that the window sill does not rise. After this, the window sill itself is inserted between the frame and the bracket. Again, using a level and support blocks, the window sill is leveled horizontally.

Note. When leveling the window sill, it is necessary to make a slope of 1-2 degrees towards the room. After installing the window sill, you can begin to decorate the window opening. To do this, take special PVC panels that are attached to the initial profile with a clip. The platband is wound around the corner and secured to the wall with self-tapping screws. It is covered with a decorative strip on top.

Don't forget to put end caps on the windowsill. The seams between the slope panels, the end trims of the window sill and the ebb are sealed with neutral silicone sealant.