You will definitely use this trick if you didn’t know it before. We will talk about how to very reliably glue plastic or plastic parts with ordinary second glue, using one little secret, which increases the strength of the connection of two parts by more than 10 times.

What's the trick?

So, the secret is that around the seam of the parts to be glued we will apply ordinary soda with superglue. The result is a very strong thickening around the seam.
The fact is that the cyanoacrylates that make up the glue interact with soda. They interact and are not just a filler. When these two components are mixed, an instant reaction occurs and the strongest composition is obtained, which can be used to glue not only plastics, but also metals. A peculiar resemblance cold welding. Second glue by itself is not half as strong when used alone. It is not surprising that everything they did did not hold up well and fell apart. But with the use of this technology, this will no longer happen.

Will need

• Any super or second glue.
• Baking soda.

Gluing plastic

Let's get started. The bushing into which the screw is screwed has broken off. And, accordingly, I will now restore all this.
At the beginning everything is as usual. Lubricate the area with glue.

One and the other have details.

Let's connect them.

Now the soda comes into play. When the parts come into contact, excess glue is squeezed out; it needs to be sprinkled generously with soda.

After 5 seconds, the excess can be blown off.

Then pour superglue generously around the crack and immediately cover it with baking soda again.

We blow off the excess again.

We repeat the process again.

Sprinkle generously.

As a result, a strong bead has formed around the bushing, which will hold everything securely.

Although everything has hardened before your eyes, it is recommended to let it sit for about 24 hours before using the product.

Pros and cons of the method

Pros:

• Instant hardening. Even large drops freeze immediately.
• The end result is a very durable monolith.
• Glues almost any plastic.
• You can even seal holes and holes.

Minuses:

• Instant hardening can act as a negative factor due to the fact that the composition cannot be poured into the center of the parts to be glued.
• The reaction occurs with the release of heat, which in some cases can be negative.
• Unfortunately, such a composition can only be applied to the surface, but there are times when it is not possible to reach it.

I especially recommend that motorists take note of this recipe, since I myself have glued dashboards and filter glasses using this method more than once. Holds tight!

To repair barrels, flasks, buckets, watering cans, and cans, I use a primer to protect the bottom of cars. You can also use bitumen, but you need to heat it up and sometimes add diesel fuel. It must be used quickly, because... in a small container it thickens quickly. The primer, even if it has thickened (dried), you need to add gasoline and leave it for a day. If you urgently need it, you can dilute it with stirring to the desired consistency in a couple of hours. There is no need to rush when working with primer. And you also need roofing felt or roofing felt. You may need bolts, washers, and nuts.

In 2011, we bought used 200 liter barrels for 200 rubles and 100 liter barrels for 100 rubles.

In a 100 liter barrel, I cut out the top of the barrel with a chisel and placed it in a greenhouse.

In a 200 liter barrel I also started cutting out the top, I had already cut 5 cm, but I changed my mind and cut out a hole for the bucket in the cylindrical part. And around the punched gap I coated it with primer. I made one out of several pieces of felting felt, required thickness and long. Each piece was coated with primer and inserted into the cut slot using a screwdriver with a wide flat slot. The protruding ends of the felting felt were pressed into different sides to the plane of the barrel. When it dried, I missed it again. I primed both barrels, inside and out. I just needed to sand the paint, because... The primer didn't stick well to it. This year we will have to prime again.

In barrels, flasks, buckets, watering cans, if the holes are small, you need to drill holes according to the size of the hole. Take a bolt with a nut, two metal washers. Outside diameter washers are 10-20 mm larger than the hole diameter. Make four (or six) washers from roofing felt (you can use rubber, paronite, etc.). The outer diameter is equal to or slightly larger than the metal washers. The internal diameter of these washers is equal to the diameter of the bolt or slightly less. We put a metal washer on the bolt, then 2 washers made of roofing felt. Insert the bolt into drilled hole. Place 2 roofing felt washers on the bolt, then a metal washer. Throw on the nut and tighten the connection.

Plastic buckets may burst around the bottom over time. Until the bottom fell off at all, I cut out a circle from felting felt, with a diameter of 4 centimeters larger than the diameter of the bottom. On the cut out circle I drew a circle equal to the diameter of the bucket. I made radial cuts to the circumference. The bottom of the bucket and the circle on one side were coated with primer. The circle was glued to the bottom of the bucket. You can also seal the bottom of metal buckets if they are very rusty. The outside should be primed, and they will serve for many more years.

In some plastic 5-liter buckets, the bottoms burst in straight lines. I glued strips of felt felt onto the primer. These buckets can be used for more than just water.

In watering cans with a narrow neck, where a hand cannot fit through the hole, in canisters, we illogically drill a hole. Then we insert a wire of small diameter, but quite rigid, folded in half to the neck from the outside. Attach the bolt with washers and carefully pull the end of the bolt out. We unhook the wire, carefully put on the washers, and put on the nut. While screwing the nut, hold the bolt with tweezers (or some other suitable tool), first under the nut, then over the nut and tighten.

If your barrel stands vertically and in some places the walls or bottom are, as they say, “a little alive.” My friend used them for another 2-3 years as follows. He took a plastic bag, slightly larger than a barrel, put it inside, and folded the edges of the bag onto the outer wall of the barrel. Of course, the thicker the polyethylene of the bag, the better.

Sportsman 14-01-2010 11:44

like this - provided that all the pieces are selected. Don’t suggest going to a car service center for bumpers - it’s very expensive and in general I want to try it myself

Ann 14-01-2010 11:49

I myself did not believe that a broken plastic shelf from a refrigerator could be stupidly glued together with a heat gun, and it would continue to work perfectly. They just taped the seam and that’s it. Although in a good way it was necessary, of course, to take a mesh, even a window one, and “plaster” it with a layer of glue to make it stronger.
Well, of course you need to look at what kind of plastic, some stick just disgustingly, and some can be soldered with a hairdryer.

Sportsman 14-01-2010 11:55

When he comes to me, I'll take a look. Something appears very similar to a scoop green (blue, red) plastic bucket

Charnota 14-01-2010 12:13

How many pieces?

Sometimes epoxy on a fabric base works.

Sportsman 14-01-2010 12:17

I don't know yet

TAURUS 14-01-2010 12:22

Dichloroethane is a good adhesive...

How to turn an ordinary plastic bucket into a gorgeous basket

if you first dissolve part of this plastic in it... but provided that this plastic dissolves in this substance...

Sportsman 14-01-2010 12:32

All these methods are known to me and have been used. I'm curious - maybe they came up with something new? And how to reinforce with mesh - how to fuse it into plastic? Is the mesh brass?

alchemist 14-01-2010 12:40

When he comes to me, I'll take a look. Something appears very similar to a scoop green (blue, red) plastic bucket

buy a heat gun and apply heated glue through fiberglass or other reinforcement. Old buckets are made of polyethylene, everything will stick together.

alchemist 14-01-2010 12:42

Originally posted by Sportsist:
All these methods are known to me and have been used. I'm curious - maybe they came up with something new? And how to reinforce with mesh - how to fuse it into plastic? Is the mesh brass?

yes how... you stupidly take this mosaic and pick up the nozzle - glue it right along the seam, it grabs quickly, assembled, with inside you glue the mesh and fiberglass along the seams.

alchemist 14-01-2010 12:43

Forget about dichloroethane, if, as you said, the plastic is like a Soviet bucket, then there is a high probability of polyethylene, or polypropylene, and EDC will not take it.

Sportsman 14-01-2010 13:13

Dichloroethane most likely won’t work here... What is a heat gun? In my understanding, this is a Chinese piece of junk for 50 rubles, which spits hot-melt adhesive (hot-melt adhesive in rods)

alchemist 14-01-2010 13:18

yeah, that's it, the casing will be heavily loaded with heat? if yes, then there is dandyl heat-resistant compound

Sportsman 14-01-2010 14:49

How much heat does the casing on a boat motor have? 40-50 degrees, hardly more. You should try hot glue with mesh.

makarkharp 14-01-2010 15:24

I saw somewhere on motorcycle sites a comprehensive topic on gluing broken plastic, and it seems that it was even duplicated here... search, maybe you’ll find it.

alchemist 14-01-2010 15:25

then there is a supply, take rods from 160 and that’s it.
I have experience in repairing two FUCKING holes in the plastic of the radiator using Dandil compound, heat-resistant, black. It collapsed like a monolith, and endured the shaking blows with honor.

Sportsman 14-01-2010 17:26

from 160 what is it? Temperature? Price?

alchemist 14-01-2010 17:43

temperature, the price of a kilo of rods in Leroy Choate is about 110 rubles, extrostronk

Sportsman 15-01-2010 09:44

I don’t know what Leroy is, I’ll look at our radio stores to see what they have

op-tu-mat 15-01-2010 22:31

which one did you mean?

demon 15-01-2010 22:40

cyanoacrylate type Loctite 401

Home▲▼

DIY plastic bumper repair

Even the most experienced driver cannot be insured against damage to the bumper of your car. If not you, then you. If it can be resolved through the insurance company, good. If the insurance doesn’t work, then there are two options: trust the professionals (here, too, it often happens) and shell out a considerable amount, or repair the bumper yourself.
It all starts with assessing the damage. Usually a bumper is not very expensive, especially if you buy a Chinese analogue. If the bumper is damaged quite seriously, then restoring it is out of the question - it will cost more. Repair and restoration work plastic bumper It is advisable to produce if there is a small crack or cracks, scratches, chips, dents, or if a replacement cannot be found at all.

Before repairs, it is advisable to remove the bumper for convenience. The entire restoration process, right down to painting, can be conveniently performed on a separate stand.

Procedure

— Remove the damaged bumper;

- Wash it well;

- Delete paintwork damaged area;

— Clean the outer and inner surface with a grip of 10-15 mm on the sides of the damage. The paint layer removed during cleaning must be at least 0.2 mm, since upper layer surfaces often change their properties during operation, which can affect the quality of our repair seam;

— Drill the ends of the cracks (this will prevent their further growth). This is the same as when repairing cracks and chips on the windshield with your own hands;

- Carry out the actual repairs - we will consider the methods below;

— Primer and painting will be required in most cases.

To repair a bumper with your own hands, you will need a minimum set of tools:

— Car hair dryer. This special device, in appearance and operating principle no different from a conventional hair dryer. The only difference is that the flow of hot air from such a hair dryer has more high temperature and may soften or melt the plastic.

— Soldering iron. You can use any soldering iron, preferably a more powerful one. Rosin and tin are not required, this is not the case.

— Metal mesh. These are sold in specialized stores. The mesh will allow you to hold pieces of plastic together. You can use an old air filter.

— Priming. A regular can of automotive primer will do just fine. If you have a compressor and a spray gun, then that's even better. Choose for yourself - it doesn’t matter.

— Putty. No matter how perfect you are at sealing the cracks, you will still need putty. The exception is if this place is not visible.

— Sandpaper. For rubbing putty numbers 40 and 80, and for rubbing primer already 800.

— Any rag. It will be needed when washing the bumper, and when working with a hairdryer, because straightening hot plastic with bare hands not always comfortable. It is also good to use gloves.

— A piece of an old bumper. It will be needed in exceptional cases when there is not enough plastic.

It may be advisable to buy a repair kit, which includes such items as sandpaper, various touch-up paints, and fillers. Such kits are not that expensive and may turn out to be cheaper than taking everything separately, since the kits use small packaging - why do you need a whole bottle of primer for a small crack? Also putty, etc.

Bumper repair

First, a high-quality inspection is carried out in good lighting. Determine how many cracks, scratches, chips and dents there are on your bumper. We immediately calculate the amount of mesh, putty and other Supplies. It is best to do this before purchasing consumables and missing tools.

Now let's carefully examine the inside of the bumper. There you need to find extruded (in some cases melted) information about the material of the product. Depending on the type of marking, the following conclusions can be drawn:
PP type designations (PPTV20 and analogues) – the bumper is made of propylene;
mark PUR – polyurethane bumper;
PAG 6 (GF, ABS) – designation of hard plastics.

But it is not full list materials from which car bumpers are made. You can also find parts made of fiberglass and similar carbon fibers, but markings are applied to them very rarely and the most that can be found is information about the manufacturer. But if your bumper is made of hard (thermosetting) plastic or carbon fiber, then repair plastic bumpers This type of repair is different from repairing products made from other materials.

Cracks.

If there is a crack on the bumper, then we will need a soldering iron and a mesh. Turn the bumper over so the wrong side is facing you and cut the mesh. It is worth making oblong pieces 2-3 centimeters wide and the cracks long in size. Bring the edges of the crack together and solder one end of the mesh. We need to drown it in plastic, but don’t get too carried away, you can just make a hole. After this, the end of the mesh should be covered with molten plastic. Next, in this way, we solder the entire crack.

Let's evaluate the outer side of the bumper. If everything is ideal there, then there is no need to do anything. Otherwise, we pass through the mesh and along outside. The main thing is to hide the ends of the mesh so that nothing sticks out. When you sharpen the putty with sandpaper, you will regret the protruding mesh hairs.

Small cracks, instead of mesh, can be reinforced with staples from furniture stapler. The size of the paper clips should be chosen so that their legs do not pierce the body. If there are no suitable staples, then you can take others and shorten them to the desired length. Use tweezers when soldering fittings, this way you will protect yourself from burns.

We place the staples perpendicular to the seam at a distance of 1-2 cm along the entire length of the fracture. We also fuse barely visible cracks and branches. Otherwise, in the future, due to vibration, they will develop into splits. To protect the staples from corrosion, completely cover them with heated plastic, pulling it from adjacent areas. After you fuse the bumper along the inside, the front surface should return to its original shape.

If the cracks on the bumper are large or there are fasteners nearby (places where the bumper is attached to the body), since the nearby surface of the bumper often breaks, it is advisable to tighten the crack with screws before soldering. A fairly simple but very effective method is proposed.

We take a hanger - it’s exactly called a “metal hanger for attaching guides”, these are available in any hardware store. We need it to tighten the crack with screws.

We cut it with a hacksaw or a grinder as shown in the photo, depending on the type of crack in the bumper. Usually parts 1 or 2 are used - the holes used are painted blue. Although it happens that when two cracks come together, piece of iron No. 3 is used. Below is an example of the location of the plates on a bumper crack.

In the figure, the working holes for the bolts are shown in blue. We drill holes in the bumper for screws, with reverse side We place the plate, insert a screw into the holes and secure the entire structure with nuts.

If you are repairing a bumper for the first time, then be sure to carry out this procedure from the inside (and it’s better not the first time either).

Place a plate on the crack. Through the holes in the plate, drill holes in the bumper with a drill with a diameter of 3.6 to 3.8 mm. Drill so that the drill bit is closer to the outer edge of the plate hole.
the drilled hole in the bumper must be countersinked so that the screw head “sinks” into the bumper. If there is no countersink, you can use a drill instead, with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the screw head. When countersinking, do not overdo it, do not countersink right through! But you also don’t need to make the hole too small. And one more thing - you can countersink manually, just with your hand, make a couple of turns with a large drill in the hole drilled for the screw - and desired angle ready for the hat.

We check the quality of the soldering. Stagger around the crack after it dries.

How to repair a barrel, flask, bucket, watering can, canister

If everything is flimsy, you will have to resolder it. However, this cannot be allowed; everything must be done for sure. After healing the crack, the surface of the bumper should also be degreased and covered with fiberglass and then putty.

Dents

If the dent turns out without a scratch, that is, the paintwork remains intact, you are very lucky. You can straighten it in minutes. This will complete the restoration of the bumper. All you need to do is wet a regular rag, turn on the hairdryer and heat the dent on the back side. They usually warm up for no more than thirty seconds. Then we wrap a damp rag around the fist and begin to bend the plastic back. We do everything carefully and without using much force. The main thing is not to push everything out. You can do several approaches with a break of ten minutes, allowing the plastic to cool.

In the case where, in addition to the dent, there is also a crack, we perform the same actions, but with the expectation of further puttying and painting the surface.

Chips and scratches

You can fight them with sandpaper. We take the largest one (number 40) and start rubbing. It is necessary to sharpen the pits, turning everything into more or less flat surface. The hole, in fact, increases in diameter, but loses in depth. Then we will fill this depth with putty. It is advisable to use body bars if available, but you can also rub with the palm of your hand.

Detailed instructions for removing chips and scratches on a car - for those who need it.

A good result is obtained by using liquid plastic that matches your type of plastic on the bumper. Be sure to consult with the seller, first writing down the type of material of your bumper.
Apply masking tape (preferably self-adhesive fiberglass tape) to the front surface of the bumper. Mix the adhesive and thickener on the cardboard. Apply the resulting mixture onto the masking tape. This is done to level the surface of the bumper. Next, the masking tape is removed, and the surface is again cleaned and sanded. Apply to this place liquid plastic. After the plastic has hardened, you need to sand the surface.

Putty

Let's prepare the putty by adding a hardener to it. After this, we will immediately apply to the place of dents (if the paintwork is damaged), cracks, scratches or chips. This is done naturally after the above-mentioned measures to eliminate breakdowns.

You should wait ten minutes before starting work. We take sandpaper number 80. Using movements directed towards the left and right edges of the bumper, we begin to rub in the putty. Sooner or later you will come to the desired result. Of course, you should respect the geometry of the body if the breakdown occurs in some not very convenient location. You can apply several additional layers of putty to make the surface more even.

We prime

Let's take a rubber rag, wash the bumper and let it dry. Let's check the result one last time. If you are happy with everything, then you can start priming. We take the cans or turn on the compressor. You need to apply the primer with movements directed, again, towards the left and right edges of the bumper. Basically, you need to draw horizontal line when spraying.

Let the soil dry completely. After this, you will need to take eight-hundredth sandpaper and wash it thoroughly. This is done with a bottle of water. No matter how local the damage is, the entire bumper is completely washed out. It should become matte after drying. And the first layer of primer will be completely washed away, leaving only gray dots in the marks and pores on the putty.
Let's apply another layer of primer, which we will also wash off. Check the evenness of the surface under the lamp. There should be no small pores or marks left. The surface at this stage should be perfectly flat.

Now the bumper is completely ready for painting. We advise you to paint everything as soon as possible.

Repair of plastic bumpers made of thermosetting plastics and fiberglass

On the one hand, this method does not require great skills and abilities from you, but on the other hand, you must strictly follow all the instructions. Only in this case can you achieve a good result.

Procedure for carrying out repairs:

we combine the cracked parts, fix them with any quick-drying glue;

prepare the epoxy resin for further use;

take a brush and coat the area of ​​the crack ranging from 5 cm wide from the inside of the bumper;

soak epoxy resin fiberglass mat and lay it on the prepared area. If such material is not available, the mesh used to seal plasterboard joints may be suitable. In the latter case, you will have to apply another layer of epoxy.

It should be noted that during this procedure it is necessary to repeatedly apply fiberglass layer by layer so that the approximate thickness of the glued patch corresponds to the thickness of the bumper in this area. Front side the product remains unglued. The putty used to hide solder marks and other irregularities must be designed specifically for plastic in any case. Next, you should paint the finished bumper and screw it into place. If you believe the statistics and try the method in practice, then in subsequent operation, if cracks appear on it, then in some other place, but definitely not in the place of the seam we sealed.

In any case, you should not forget that the bumper is, first of all, the face of the car and requires proper care and timely repairs. Will this be do-it-yourself repair or repairing a bumper at a car service center - it’s up to you.

I haven’t tried to seal plastic buckets myself, but I have seen how it’s done. 5. The neck is glued to the bath using hot glue. We trim the edges of the holes slightly with a drill of a larger diameter; there should be no burrs! 4. In the intended circle, drill 5-7 drain holes with a diameter of 4-5 millimeters.

ATTENTION! Washcloths and sponges need to be changed quite often, especially if they have lost their integrity and begun to crumble. Please note: Bathing a child in a large shared bath You can only pre-treat its surface with soda, baby soap or special detergents. Suction cup accessories must be secured before the bath is filled with water.

How to seal a plastic container?(+)Yesterday

Water getting under them and detergents reduces the reliability of fixation.

This steel structure, adjustable in height at which the bath is installed.

In the design of the bathtub, the factor of its stability is important.

This position makes it easier to pass gas and makes colic pain easier to bear. The product meets all safety and hygiene requirements.

Microban is not released into the water and does not lose its properties over time.

The material of the product contains the Microban additive, which disinfects the water when bathing.

If the bath is stationary, then there should be anti-slip pads on the legs. The accessory provides the baby with soft support and prevents him from slipping. The sponge bath shape has a profile that matches the anatomical contours of the child. Its shape includes supports between the legs and under the arms. The anatomical slide is attached to the bathtub with suction cups. A hanging hammock, made of fine mesh, is hung over the bottom of the bath using hooks.

It is a removable stand that fixes the child’s position and makes bathing safe and comfortable.

What to consider when choosing a bath for a newborn

The anatomical bathtub has a built-in support slide inside that follows the contours of the child’s body, so he feels more confident while bathing. Armed with knowledge about the types and properties of baby baths and additional items for them, you will make right choice at the time of buying. To fall asleep faster, it is recommended to give your baby a general massage; you can watch a video tutorial in this publication.

This allows you to fix the baby in a comfortable position.

Very comfortable for newborns.

The built-in drain increases convenience. It allows you to quickly and easily change the water during bathing without disturbing your child.

The bath should not be too small so that the baby can use it for at least six months.

It’s strange that almost all the accessories are mentioned here, but they forgot about swimming circles - this is about swimming in the bathroom. And when the baby grows up, you can bathe him in a spacious shared bath, and leave the nursery for future offspring. Swimming slide.

Therefore everything is available.

In some models, the stops are adjustable to suit the child's height. After use, it folds up compactly. Buying these items separately will cost less. But you can become the owner of things that you personally do not need.

Often we need to glue a broken or cracked plastic product - from the temple of glasses to the bumper of a car. It may also be necessary to glue a hook in the bathroom or a holder for a garden sprayer. The essence of the gluing process is to dissolve the surface layer of two workpieces and form from this solution a layer of plastic common to both parts. After hardening, the parts form a single whole, or, as they say, “glue tightly together.”

Determining the type of plastic

In order to reliably glue plastic, you first need to find out what kind of plastic the object is made of. Knowing the plastic, you can choose the most suitable adhesive for it.

All manufacturers put recycling symbols on their plastic products - this is the well-known Recycling Triangle - a triangle with arrows on the sides, symbolizing the reuse of materials.

The triangle contains numbers from one to seven. Often the numbers are supplemented by an abbreviation. These designations are used to determine the type of plastic.

What does the marking on plastic mean?

• PET polyethylene low pressure or polyethylene terephthalate. It is mainly used for packaging or packaging food products. Available in the form of film, bags or transparent containers for liquid and bulk goods, as well as drinks.
• HDPE compacted low pressure polyethylene. Used for the production of shrink film and packaging bags.
• V (PVC) polyvinyl chloride – not food grade plastic, used for the manufacture of strong and durable items, such as household buckets, metal-plastic window frames, linoleum.
• LDPE Low Density Polyethylene high pressure. Used in the production of bottles for drinks and dairy products, packaging bags, toys, cold water pipes.
• PP polypropylene. Plastic is not chemically active, heat-resistant (up to 150 ° C), most widely used in the production of medical goods, heat-resistant dishes and household utensils, toys, pipes and fittings for hot water, and much more.
• PS polystyrene. Also food grade plastic, it is used to make disposable tableware, household utensils, kitchen appliance housings. If it is foamed, it forms an excellent porous heat insulator - polystyrene foam, used in everyday life and in construction work.
• O Other (others) - materials that are not intended for recycling, for example, with inclusions of metal, paper or other substances). This also includes plastics that do not belong to one of the six groups.

PS - polystyrene

To reliably glue plastic, you need to carefully examine the markings on the product and select an adhesive intended for polymers of this group. There is another way to determine the type of plastic - a small piece of it must be set on fire. Each type burns with a characteristic smell and type of flame. To reliably use this method at home, you need to gain considerable experience.

Glue marking

Tubes with glue are also marked, it’s just a pity that the designation system does not always coincide with the designations in the triangle on the plastic product. Most often you can see the following symbols on the tube:

• PC-polycarbonate (used for covering greenhouses and canopies).
• ABS is an acrylonitrile copolymer.
• PP polypropylene.
• PPMA organic glass for general purpose.
• PE is a well-known polyethylene.
• PVC is another familiar one - vinyl, or polyvinyl chloride.
• PS – polystyrene.
• PA 66 - polyamide.
• PUR polyurethane.

If you are not an expert in organic chemistry, then most likely, further study of labeling at home will not be successful. It is better to read in the user manual, which must be included with the tube, which plastics can be glued with it.

Types of adhesives

The variety of plastics used in everyday life corresponds to an equally wide variety of manufactured compositions and methods of their use.

How to glue plastic

To dissolve the surface layer of the material, you need to destroy chemical bonds between molecules. For this purpose, special substances are used - strong solvents. Each solvent is suitable for its own group of plastics, and may not even leave a trace on a material from another group. The basis of each adhesive composition is such a solvent. In addition, the composition may include:

• a hardener that promotes drying;
• filler - dissolved molecules of the substance for which the glue is intended.

One of the strongest solvents is dichloroethane. It is used to glue polystyrene and plexiglass.

Depending on the method of use, the products are divided into several groups:

• liquid;
• contact;
• reactionary;
• hot melt adhesives.

Liquid

Liquid ones are widely used in everyday life; they are easily and simply used at home for gluing plastic that has a porous structure. They are produced both on the basis of organic solvent and water based. They are applied to surfaces that are pressed against each other for a time sufficient for the base to evaporate. After that adhesive layer hardens to form a joint. A typical example is PVA glue; it can be used to glue not only linoleum, but also wood at home.

Contact

Bonding takes place in two stages:

• the surfaces to be glued are lubricated thin layer, which dissolves the surface layer of plastic, softening it and facilitating contact with another surface;
• After a few minutes, the parts are pressed against each other with force, the softened layers are mixed, the solvent evaporates and a seam is formed.

This is how Moment, BF-2 and others work. They can be used to glue polystyrene and other plastics together at home. They contain toxic substances, so you need to work in a well-ventilated area and prevent drops from coming into contact with the skin or mucous membranes.

Reactionary

One-component reactive agents dissolve the bonded material very quickly and harden just as quickly. These are like this famous brands, like Secunda, Superglue and their analogues. The seam is strong and rigid.

Two-component ones consist, respectively, of two components stored separately from each other:

• hardener;
• fixative

The components are mixed immediately before use and applied to the surface, where the mixture hardens to form a compound. The basis is epoxy or polyester resins. The seam at home turns out to be very durable. Characteristic feature is that complete hardening takes quite a long time, and the seam gradually increases both strength and fragility.

Hot melt adhesives

This group includes substances that exhibit their properties when heated to 110-120 °C. To use you need a special glue gun with heating element. Differs in precision of application. In addition to plastic, it can be used to glue wood, fabric, and paper together at home.

How to glue plastic tightly at home

After the type of plastic has been determined and the appropriate substance has been selected, you should:

• Thoroughly degrease the surfaces to be bonded. To do this, use alcohol, a degreaser or a soap solution (only laundry soap);
• To glue objects more reliably, you need to increase wettability. To do this, treat the surface with a velvet file or fine sandpaper;
• Mix two-component reactive substances only after completing the preparation of parts;
• do not use brushes with natural bristles;
• Apply enough adhesive so that when pressing the workpieces, the excess is not squeezed out beyond the gluing zone.

The parts should be pressed so as to prevent their displacement in the gluing plane relative to each other.

How to achieve maximum effect when gluing plastic parts

To ensure maximum effect when gluing plastic at home, you should:

• accurately determine the material and select the appropriate adhesive for it;
• carefully follow the instructions for use;
• wait for the required time for the seam to gain strength and do not try to use the product ahead of time;
• for outdoor use or for items used in high humidity, you need to choose a waterproof brand;
• despite the declared heat resistance of the adhesive, the parts themselves may not survive this temperature;
• If there is no marking on the product, then you can try dropping a drop of adhesive in an inconspicuous place and see if the material dissolves.

Epoxy glue produces one of the strongest bonds and is compatible with many types of plastics.

What affects the reliability of gluing

The reliability of the seam is affected whole line conditions. All of them are important, and failure to comply with any one can lead to the fact that what is glued at home will fall off, despite compliance with all the others. So:

1. Compliance of the product material and adhesive composition.
2. Correspondence of the type of adhesive composition to the magnitude of the forces that the connection will experience. The direction of these efforts is equally important. Thus, compounds that produce rigid seams are not suitable for repairing, for example, shoes - after all, the sole will bend and twist during use, despite the fact that the tensile force will be small. At the same time, this composition can successfully glue, say, a hook to glass, and hang tens of kilograms on it.
3. Compliance with application technology. Everything is important here - how many seconds or minutes the surfaces need to be compressed, and how to degrease them, and how long to keep the parts pressed against each other. All this depends on the properties of a particular “plastic-glue” pair, is described in detail in the instructions and must be followed verbatim. A deviation of one second in the exposure time or premature start of use of the product can lead to secondary failure.
4. Mechanical part of the process. It is important to thoroughly clean the surface from dust and roughen it. In addition, the direction of pressing the parts against each other must be perpendicular to the surfaces being glued. You should not allow the parts to move mutually after pressing - this will also lead to failure.

Gluing plastic tightly is not so easy. Carefully following simple rules by the home craftsman will allow you to obtain strong and durable connections. The main thing is not to forget about safety precautions: do not inhale vapors of the adhesive and do not allow it to get into food, skin or mucous membranes. If accidentally swallowed, consult a doctor immediately, making sure to take the tube with you.

The problem of cracking of plastic products is very relevant in our time, when most of the small things necessary in everyday life are made from this material.
After all, in fact, it’s stupid to throw away a completely new dustpan or bucket. It's just a pity for the money and time spent. It’s especially disappointing to throw away a favorite, albeit inexpensive, vase. To cope with this problem and extend, even if only briefly, the service life of plastic products, it is necessary to quickly repair them. One way to quickly and efficiently fix a leak in a plastic bucket or make a garbage disposal operational is to use a caustic substance called trichlor. Of course, it is not sold in all hardware stores and you will have to go around a lot retail outlets to purchase the coveted bottle, but it’s worth it.

Trichlor is quite dangerous chemical agent, which is a light and very caustic liquid. Therefore, it is necessary to work with it only in protective gloves.

A small amount of the substance must be poured onto natural cotton wool or the same rag and wipe the problem area. In a matter of seconds, the plastic treated in this way will become soft and the crack can be smoothed out. If one treatment was not enough, the plastic is too strong or, on the contrary, very thin, then you can repeat the process, using a piece of additional plastic for insurance. After joining, you will receive a product without a crack, as if it never existed. At the same time, the quality of the patch is quite high. You can use the item for its intended purpose. There will be no leaks.

But it must be remembered that all work should be carried out in a room with open windows or at outdoors. This is necessary so as not to get poisoned yourself and not cause harm to others. More in a simple way A quick way to eliminate a leak in a plastic vessel is to use paraffin. To work you will need a paraffin candle. It must be lit and when it starts to melt, bring it to problem area. Paraffin will firmly seal the crack. It is safer and quite reliable.

A cracked pelvis can get a second wind

After such a quick repair, the product will last for quite a long time, if you do not keep it near an open fire or in the sun. In addition, cold welding can be used. It will securely glue the product. After treatment you need to wait about half an hour. You need to wear protective gloves when working.

Manual welding extruder for joining plastic.

Since we deal with batteries and there is a lot of acidic electrolyte around us, we use plastic storage containers. It is clear that these tanks periodically need repairs, so to speak. Plastic containers not small in size and restoring their integrity using such methods is quite labor-intensive. Therefore, we purchased a manual welding extruder for more professional work. It is clear that it costs a lot of money, but its performance is higher and it welds plastic much more reliably. We actually bought a German-made extruder, but now we also have ours Russian made, we would like to recommend one of the models to you.

Second life of leaky barrels

Chapter: Educational program

Writes Anatoly Nikolaevich MOSKALEV, Ekaterinburg

A metal barrel is one of the most useful items on our site. But time takes its toll, and gradually they become unusable. Should I throw them away?

Our dacha specialists confidently say: no!

The average service life of a barrel is 20 years

In 1982, I bought 10 steel barrels with a volume of 200 liters (inner diameter 54 cm and height 88 cm) to store water for irrigation. They served well at the dacha for 20 years, since every two years I painted them with waterproof paint. But nothing, as they say, lasts forever. Gradually small holes began to appear in the bottom and on the side cylindrical surface, sealed them with cold welding and tar. But year after year the holes increased in size and their number grew. By 2010, all the barrels were completely unusable, no repairs could help them - not the barrels, but the sieve! Suitable only for collecting and burning waste, preparing compost or disposing of it in a landfill.

We use a bag to extend the life of the barrel

The idea was suggested to me by summer resident Yuri Stepanov: “Holes are not at all a reason not to keep water in barrels.” I decided to put this into practice and got a wonderful result. I had to bring the idea to mind myself.

I bought it in the store plastic bags for garbage - 60 microns, volume 240 l. It is very important that the volume of the bag is significantly larger than the volume of the barrel, and its perimeter is equal to the perimeter of its outer cylindrical surface (if more, this is welcome; if less, then no more than 2-3 cm - polyethylene is elastic and stretches a little). I think you guessed it: the water will be stored in a bag, and the barrel should only serve as a supporting frame for it.

At first I wanted to finish writing here, but after thinking about it, I decided: no, I need to convey some nuances, then you will save both time and nervous energy. The technology is simple.

To avoid punctures

We clean the inner surface of the barrel from sharp peelings of paint and rust that can pierce a plastic bag.

We do this with metal brush, or even better, a metal frame used to shave off weeds (just use the frame mounted on the handle). And don't overdo it! Carefully check the inner surface of the barrel with your palm: if there are no sharp spots, just clean it. Any non-sharp protrusions do not matter. There is no need to paint the inside of the barrel - do not waste money, effort and time.

If you can’t smooth out sharp protrusions, or you want to insure yourself against troubles in the future, there is such a move: from thick polyethylene (cardboard, plastic, etc.) we cut out a circle whose diameter is equal to internal diameter barrels or even a little more. Place the circle on the bottom of the barrel. We cut out a rectangle, the width of which is equal to the distance from the bottom of the barrel to its top edge, and the length is slightly greater than its perimeter. We roll the rectangle into a cylinder, overlap the edges and fasten them along with threads.

Topic: Crack in plastic water tank for outdoor shower. How to seal the tank?

We place the cylinder in the barrel. The circle and cylinder will reliably protect the bags from punctures!

One is good, but two is better

For strength, it is better to use two bags. We put one into the other so that the corners on the bottom match. We place the bags on a flat surface (table, floor) and expel the air from them, stroking them with our palms from the bottom to the top edge. Of course, some air will still remain, but it doesn’t matter. We align the upper edges and use narrow tape (8-15 mm) to fasten the bags over the edge along the perimeter along their upper edge every 10-15 cm. The length of the fastening adhesive tape is enough to be 4 cm. Now the interlocked edges of the bags will not move relative to each other, and we will get a double package. Do not seal the edges of the bags along the entire length - this is very important, and you will appreciate it later, since the air remaining between the bags will be able to freely escape when water is poured into the inner bag.

Place the double bag into the barrel. We bend its upper edge (5-15 cm) onto the outer surface of the barrel along its entire perimeter.

If the length of the bag allows, it is better to bend the edges as much as possible, but make sure that the bag in the barrel does not hang in the air, as the water will simply tear it apart.

To prevent the bag from sliding to the bottom of the barrel when we start pouring water into it, you need to attach the bent part of the bag to the outer surface of the barrel with wide tape (60-80 mm). This is a very important operation, it is better to do it together. For example, a husband places a barrel on an inclined beam, a round block or a box and slowly turns it around its axis, and at this time the wife, slowly, glues the package with tape: half the width of the tape to the package, the other to the barrel. The operation requires care; the tape must lie flat and tight, without swelling or distortion. Of course, you can perform this procedure alone, but it’s difficult. In the photo next to me is a barrel, which I wrapped with tape absolutely alone (before this, the operation was carried out together with my wife as I described above). Look how great I did! And you, dear readers, I’m sure you are incomparably more talented than me, you will do even better!

Air vent hooks

And here’s another very serious nuance! A lot of air remains between the double bag and the barrel body. You will be tortured to delete it. And if you do not remove it, the poured water, gradually pressing the bag against the barrel, will squeeze the air upward: the bag will swell, and since there is no way out for the air, it may tear as a result, or the curved edge of the bag together with the tape will pull the water inside the barrel, which is what happens. we had at first. The bag falls to the bottom, water flows out through the holes. Goodbye idea...

Having failed on the first barrel, I found the next way out. From aluminum wire with a diameter of 4-5 mm, we cut pieces 15-20 cm long and make hooks. To do this, press a piece of wire vertically against outside barrels. The upper end of the wire should be 5-6 cm higher than the edge of the barrel. We hold the wire with one hand, bend it inside the barrel with the other hand and also press it tightly against the wall. A short part of the hook 4-5 cm long is enough.

Before lowering the double bag into the barrel, I hung one hook on each barrel so that long side the hook was outside. If you have inserted a cylinder into the barrel, the short end of the hook must be on top of it. When wrapping with tape, you cannot seal the outer end of the hook; the tape should be at least slightly above the tip. The hook will create two air outlet channels.

The bag will be pressed tightly against the barrel under the pressure of the water, and even if you scoop the water out of the barrel, the bag will still remain pressed tightly.

For many years

Please note: with this method, water is perfectly stored throughout the season. It is clean, there is no rust in it. It can even be used for washing clothes and initially washing vegetables.

The bags can be removed for the winter and stored warmly, for example in a city apartment, their weight and volume are insignificant. Polyethylene will retain its properties and last at least one more season. Saving! Barrels should be stored in a dry place after the season closes, and they will last for many years without any repairs.

By the way, not only a leaky barrel is suitable for storing water in this way. It can be any container, as long as it serves as a reliable frame for the package. For example, you can put together wooden box, the cross-sectional area of ​​which and its height are consistent with the dimensions of the package.

I wanted to seal the letter in an envelope, but my wife said: “What if the summer resident is unable to buy packages? What should I do? And here is her advice: instead of bags, you can use film for greenhouses in the form of a sleeve - bend the sleeve lengthwise, bend it across, lower it into a barrel, cut it off at the top with a margin... Then, I think, it’s clear.

If we fill all the leaky barrels and other leaky containers with water, we will have something to water our gardens and vegetable gardens, and there will be good harvests even in dry years. I urge everyone to follow my example. I wish everyone health and sufficient water - the basis of life on earth (of course, God forbid you from floods).

Magazine “My Beautiful Dacha”.

See also:

When republishing materials on other sites, a direct hyperlink to www.domruss.ru is required.

3 actual benefits!

Plastic bucket repair

How to seal a plastic canister?

fugitive 08-04-2010 16:11

Friends.
Here's what happened.
After the Weekend Journey (Easter Procession, if you will), the collapsible canister was found to be leaking. Polyethylene canister from Tatonka. A small leak formed in the area where the hollow handle was attached - they filled it to capacity, 10 liters, apparently it barked while carrying it.
It's a pity for the canister - it's been like this for four or five years, it's a good thing.
And it’s no good to write off everything and throw away money.

That's the question. Polyethylene generally does not adhere well. Maybe someone glued it? And if so, then with what? I look at the device and think - either heat it, or glue it, or stick the base of the handle with epoxy slag (it seems like epoxy adheres to everything except fluoroplastic; I once had experience gluing plastic - polypropylene).

Before I break the canister, maybe someone will remember something? A?

ummka 08-04-2010 16:22

Try soldering with a regular electric soldering iron, and to relieve the handle, carry it in a light cloth string bag. We've been using a folding canister for three years like this

minorite 08-04-2010 16:29

I also soldered it with a soldering iron. I wiped it with gasoline on both sides, dried it, and with a small 25-watt soldering iron, carefully, like stretching polyethylene, “sealed” the crack.
After this operation, the wall was thinner in that place, of course, but it seemed to withstand water.

fugitive 08-04-2010 17:02

Thank you, colleagues.
Of course, like a normal man, I went through the question along the way.
You're right - welding. Is there some more chemical methods, but I don’t have such crap like a chrome pick.

But. While the canister was drying, I ran through the properties of polyethylene and something else. In general, it’s easy to cook polyethylene - no problem. Destructurizes and depolymerizes when melted, resulting in more brittleness at that location. And then there’s the load (after all, no matter how you pack the handle in a string bag, some crazy thread will still pull on the handle).
But hot melt adhesive, as it turned out, is a copolymer of polyethylene, it polymerizes just when melted and, moreover, has more low temperature melting. Just what you need. I have several types, just found the most elastic one.

Once the canister is thoroughly dry, I’ll try to weld hot glue with a soldering iron through the fume tape (it seems to be fluoroplastic, it won’t stick to either the soldering iron or the polyethylene, so as not to make snot), without melting the polyethylene base too much. At the same time, I’m thinking about what kind of trick I can use from within...

evgenstr 08-04-2010 17:42

if the place with the hole does not bear a load, you can simply weld it with a soldering iron. if under load, try something like “cold welding”, which, if memory serves, does not stick to regular tracing paper...

It would be nice to look at the photo...

ummka 08-04-2010 18:18quote: I’ll try welding hot glue with a soldering iron through fume tape (it seems to be fluoroplastic, not suitable for a soldering iron,
I would like to remind you that when heated above 200 degrees, fluoroplastic disintegrates with the release of phosgene group gas Susliks 08-04-2010 18:20quote:Originally posted by evgenstr:

It would be nice to look at the photo...

I think this is a standard canister:

fugitive 08-04-2010 21:03quote: I think this is a standard canister:

Absolutely right. Just bigger in volume.
There is a crack near the handle next to the tap cap.

I had to leave here. Just got back. Let's figure it out.

ummka 08-04-2010 22:00

If you haven’t soldered it, you can melt a piece of iron mesh into the problem area instead of reinforcement.

ZedkiN 09-04-2010 12:10

So cover it with epoxy or paxipol and that’s it!

fugitive 09-04-2010 01:20

They drove me around the house here.
Haven't glued it yet. Postponed until tomorrow. I will definitely share the result.

quote: So cover it with epoxy or paxipol and that’s it!

Not. It won't roll. Work on a polypropylene cover showed that epoxy adheres to it, but it is too hard. Without at least partially repeating the bends of the product during use, it either breaks and flies off, or a new unnatural bend is formed and again a crack... And then - due to the fragility of the resin, they will not hold the flexible section if they are “smeared”. The layer is too thin. If the part is motionless, then I use a thick clapper to glue it together. But it won’t work here.
And this despite the fact that out of everything available at hand, only the good old domestic resin, which is sold on the market for “pouring” (I can’t remember the name, like EN-8 or something like that, transparent-matte, without filler).

How to repair a barrel, flask, bucket, watering can, canister

Imported "plasticines" in general...

Has the author seen this glue himself?

evgenstr 04/09/2010 09:04quote:Originally posted by Susliks:

I think this is a standard canister here

It would be nice to look at the photo of the breakdown site...))

If possible, use a patch made of the same material as the canister.

13mm 09-04-2010 09:31

I'm feeling sentimental today...
Maybe tell her “thank you” and send her to rest.

ek-burger 09-04-2010 12:46

IMHO after 4-5 years of use it’s easier to throw it away and buy a new one. stick it in one place, it will rub off in another.
Some kind of rodent bit me through this in the parking lot at night. on one of the folds of the accordion. sealed with silver epoxy tape.

proba999 09-04-2010 13:19

We have been using such canisters successfully for a long time, and we have used Tatonka and other manufacturers. It has been noticed, and not only by me, that canisters up to 5 liters inclusive last longer, 2-3 years, but 10 liter ones fail in the handle area, unless there is a puncture, of course.

Throw away the canister and buy a new one. And make a reserve. Don’t take 10 liter ones, it’s better to buy a pair of 5 liters.

Very decent canisters, considering the volume and weight

No, don’t throw it away, repair it, post a photo report to the comrades, test it and then throw it away. For me personally, it would be relevant - renovation is not at home

HomoSapiens 09-04-2010 14:05

The place subject to the greatest load has cracked (at least that’s what I understood from the description), so it’s useless to repair without removing the load from this place, even if the place of repair itself remains intact; if it cracks nearby, it’s probably time. The only option is repair and simultaneous unloading of the handle.

ZedkiN 04/09/2010 20:57quote: And with poxyple it’s generally strange advice, however...
Has the author seen this glue himself?

Hmm... I used Paxipol and epoxy... and in extreme conditions (I sealed the radiator of a car, there was a fairly large crack and I drove it for more than 3 months, and you know, after all, the pressure is high and the temperature is decent). You just need to not just spread it, but also first apply a piece of cloth (this applies to epoxy).

GPMS 09-04-2010 20:58

I glue plastic using a hair dryer and plastic sticks (for glue guns - I don’t know what they are called correctly). Use a hairdryer to heat up the plastic and glue stick. You spread the glue over the crack and heat it up a little more, it turns out that the plastic of the canister and the plastic of the glue stick are integrated into each other. The main thing is not to overdo it.

put 09-04-2010 21:17

And if you cut off the hollow handles: one mount, where the hole is completely, and the second one is cut off so that the resulting piece of tube near the canister can be soldered or glued by squeezing or with a cork inward using glue. And where the hole is: cut it flush and clamp it between two rubber and two metal washers onto a bolt and nut (you can probably use glue). Well, of course, carry it in a net or bag. Something like this. If the solid joint between the handle and the body could not withstand it, then a repair one, even more so.

Home▲▼

How to glue plastic?

Sportsman 14-01-2010 11:44

like this - provided that all the pieces are selected. Don’t suggest going to a car service center for bumpers - it’s very expensive and in general I want to try it myself

Ann 14-01-2010 11:49

I myself did not believe that a broken plastic shelf from a refrigerator could be stupidly glued together with a heat gun, and it would continue to work perfectly. They just taped the seam and that’s it. Although in a good way it was necessary, of course, to take a mesh, even a window one, and “plaster” it with a layer of glue to make it stronger.
Well, of course you need to look at what kind of plastic, some stick just disgustingly, and some can be soldered with a hairdryer.

Sportsman 14-01-2010 11:55

When he comes to me, I'll take a look. Something appears very similar to a scoop green (blue, red) plastic bucket

Charnota 14-01-2010 12:13

How many pieces?

Sometimes epoxy on a fabric base works.

Sportsman 14-01-2010 12:17

I don't know yet

TAURUS 14-01-2010 12:22

dichloroethane sticks well... if you first dissolve part of this plastic in it...

but provided that this plastic dissolves in this substance...

Sportsman 14-01-2010 12:32

All these methods are known to me and have been used. I'm curious - maybe they came up with something new? And how to reinforce with mesh - how to fuse it into plastic? Is the mesh brass?

alchemist 01/14/2010 12:40quote:Originally posted by Sportsist:
When he comes to me, I'll take a look. Something appears very similar to a scoop green (blue, red) plastic bucket

buy a heat gun and apply heated glue through fiberglass or other reinforcement. Old buckets are made of polyethylene, everything will stick together.

alchemist 14-01-2010 12:42quote:Originally posted by Sportsist:
All these methods are known to me and have been used. I'm curious - maybe they came up with something new? And how to reinforce with mesh - how to fuse it into plastic? Is the mesh brass?

yes how how...

Soldering plastic barrels!

You stupidly take this mosaic and pick up the nozzle - glue it right along the seam, it sets quickly, after assembling it, glue the mesh on the inside, fiberglass along the seams.

alchemist 14-01-2010 12:43

Forget about dichloroethane, if, as you said, the plastic is like a Soviet bucket, then there is a high probability of polyethylene, or polypropylene, and EDC will not take it.

Sportsman 14-01-2010 13:13

Dichloroethane most likely won’t work here... What is a heat gun? In my understanding, this is a Chinese piece of junk for 50 rubles, which spits hot-melt adhesive (hot-melt adhesive in rods)

alchemist 14-01-2010 13:18

yeah, that's it, the casing will be heavily loaded with heat? if yes, then there is dandyl heat-resistant compound

Sportsman 14-01-2010 14:49

How much heat does the casing on a boat motor have? 40-50 degrees, hardly more. You should try hot glue with mesh.

makarkharp 14-01-2010 15:24

I saw somewhere on motorcycle sites a comprehensive topic on gluing broken plastic, and it seems that it was even duplicated here... search, maybe you’ll find it.

alchemist 14-01-2010 15:25

then there is a supply, take rods from 160 and that’s it.
I have experience in repairing two FUCKING holes in the plastic of the radiator using Dandil compound, heat-resistant, black. It collapsed like a monolith, and endured the shaking blows with honor.