Today there are many options for heating a dacha: centralized gas, boilers, electric heaters. But if it is not possible to implement all this due to the area’s remoteness from civilization, a do-it-yourself brick stove for a summer cottage will be an excellent solution.

Reliable and durable - it will gather around itself more than one generation of household members, providing the house with warmth and filling it with comfort.

The services of a good stove maker are not a cheap pleasure. Therefore, if you decide to implement a brick stove project at your dacha, it will be useful for you to read this article, in which we will tell you about the operating principle, features and layout of the stove structure.

A brick oven can become not only functional device, but also the main highlight of the interior, if played correctly. Today there are many ways to beautifully veneer and decorate a stone stove.

No matter how much time has passed since the appearance of the first stove designs and no matter how far home heating technologies have come, the stone stove still does not lose its relevance. Compared to other types of heating (electricity, gas), it is more economical. At the same time, thick stone walls allow you to retain heat for another day after the firewood burns out.

According to their purpose, furnaces are divided into the following types:

• heating;
• cooking;
• multifunctional;
• combined.

• combustion chamber, which is purchased ready-made or lined with fireclay bricks;
• an ash pit where ashes are collected;
• chimney.

This type of design also includes a fireplace with an open or closed firebox. It is used not only for decorative purposes, but also allows you to effectively heat a room of 15-20 square meters. meters.

Depending on the selected material, wall thickness, masonry scheme, heating stoves may have different heat output.

The most popular type of stove is the one-brick design. This allows the walls to be heated to 60 0 C. The famous Dutch ovens are laid out according to this scheme.

In terms of dimensions, the heating stove can be wide and flat, or it can have an elongated rectangular shape. It all depends on the area of ​​the room, interior style and personal preferences of the owners.

Tiled tiles are usually used for lining such a stove. decorative plaster, decorative rock.

Brick heating stoves in the form of a three-sided prism look very stylish and original, but a beginner cannot implement this option, since it requires a lot of experience. Of great difficulty is the cutting of bricks and the requirements for maintaining an angle strictly at 60 0.

Round stoves, which are laid out according to the design of the famous Russian furnace engineer V.E. Grum-Grizhimailo, also look beautiful and unusual. The furnace operates on the principle of free movement of gases. To ensure tightness, the outside of the structure is covered with sheet metal. Such a stove can heat a large country mansion and will become a real decoration for any home.

The design of the stove consists of a brick body, inside of which there is a combustion chamber, an ash pan, and a chimney. There is a metal plate on top (an oven can be built in).

1. A heating and cooking stove is already a multifunctional design.

This is a more difficult project to implement, as it consists of:

• combustion chamber;
• chimney;
• ash pan;
• hob;
• oven.

The stove looks massive and is usually chosen for dachas where there is no other heating option.

In our country, heating and cooking stoves are the most popular, allowing you to heat the house and prepare a delicious dinner for the whole family.

It can be additionally equipped with a drying chamber, where you can make preparations for the summer: mushrooms, berries, fruits. In cold and damp weather, you can quickly and safely dry clothes and shoes in this chamber.

By the way, ovens with drying chambers were first invented in the countries of Northern Scandinavia, where hunters and fishermen needed to dry clothes and boots in one night.

Many schemes of heating and cooking stoves have additional devices in the form of a comfortable bench, drying wood, an oven, and a water heating tank.

Construction of a stove for a summer residence and its features

The main elements of any brick stove for a summer residence are:

10 basic rules for laying a country stove

Which brick stove to choose for your dacha?

The choice of stove design determines the size and type of room. For large cottages you will need a massive furnace structure with thick walls, which will take a long time to heat up, but at the same time be able to maintain the temperature for a long time. Building such a stove is not an easy task. This will require some experience and knowledge.

But even a beginner can handle a small stove for heating a small dacha if you strictly follow the diagram and do not change the laying rules.

The first place in the popularity of heating and cooking stoves is worthily taken by the Swede, which enjoys well-deserved love and respect among Russian stove makers.

This design is a compact, ergonomic shape with a small cooking surface and a three-channel chamber. It is ideal for a small cottage, the length ranges from 880 to 1250 mm.

For the location of such a stove, the place most often chosen is between the kitchen and the living room. Thus, the stove performs a double function: it serves for cooking and decorates the living room with a fireplace.

Today you can find hundreds of different layouts for laying a Swedish stove with a hob on the Internet, so it won’t be difficult to implement it for your dacha. Many stove makers have added to the standard masonry scheme additional options, therefore, each design is named after its creator: the Buslaev, Kuznetsov, etc. stove. But the principle of operation in them is the same.

Traditionally, a Russian stove can be called a bulky, massive structure, which is decorated not only with a hob with an oven, but also with a spacious bench.

This stove is not only a functional device for cooking, but also a place for relaxation. It allows you to warm up the room well, retaining heat for a long time, and has a beneficial effect on the human body, thanks to which the owners of such stoves are less susceptible to colds.

The building usually has two fireboxes (main and additional). Thanks to the special design of the oven, heating is carried out evenly, from bottom to top. Any kind of kindling is suitable solid fuel, and there are no particularly strict requirements for materials for laying a Russian stove.

A special place among small heating and cooking stoves is occupied by the little V.A. Potapova, created by a famous engineer at the beginning of the 20th century. To lay it, you need only 211 bricks, and the dimensions of the stove are only 630 * 510 mm.

Moreover, this little thing contains a single-burner stove, a small oven for baking and a hood. This type of stove would be an excellent solution for a small garden house or one-room cottage.

In this article, we invite you to study the rules and main points of laying a small heating and cooking stove.

Do-it-yourself stove laying

Step 1. Select a brick and prepare tools

Which brick to choose for laying a small country stove? We will need 2 types of bricks: fireclay (heat-resistant) for the construction of the firebox and red ceramic (at least M-150). You should not skimp on materials; the further performance properties, safety and efficiency of the furnace depend on this.

Fireclay brick can be easily recognized by its yellowish color and porous surface. The composition of this material includes refractory clay and crumbs. This material, in addition to its heat-resistant properties, is also valued for its ability to accumulate heat for a long time. Even after the firewood has completely died out, such a stove is capable of giving off heat for a long time.

Heat-resistant fireclay bricks can withstand temperatures up to 1500 0 C, so the combustion chamber must be made exclusively of this material.

The smaller the mass of fireclay bricks, the greater the number of pores it contains, which are created by aluminum oxide. Such a brick will conduct heat very well. The cost of this material is almost 5 times higher than the price of red brick, but there is no need to save.

But it’s also not worth laying out the entire stove from fireclay bricks; the outer part of the structure does not heat up much, and red ceramic bricks look more attractive.

When choosing bricks for the stove, pay attention to color and shape.

You can test the material. If you throw a brick from a height of 1.5 meters and it doesn’t break, take this batch. But a bad, overexposed brick can split into several parts. Such a brick makes a dull sound when falling.

The brand of brick for lining the furnace should be M150 or M200. The number in this case means how much weight the brick can withstand per 1cm 3 .

Do not use sand-lime or hollow bricks. It's not even a matter of the ability to withstand high temperatures - they can handle that. Sand-lime brick It conducts heat poorly and a room with such a stove will not be very comfortable.

For masonry mortar you will need sand, red oven clay and water. The appearance and durability of the oven directly depends on its quality and consistency. To prepare it, you should use red oven clay of medium liquid. When frozen, it should not fall off or crumble.

The masonry will be made with a thickness of 0.5 mm, in this case the precious heat will not escape quickly.

You can also use ready-made masonry mortar for construction, which is sold in stores. Usually it contains various impurities that add strength and heat resistance to the structure. In this case, it will be enough to dilute the dry mixture with water and bring it to a homogeneous state using a construction mixer.

The consistency of this solution should resemble thick sour cream. If the mortar rolls off the trowel, you need to add more dry mixture. If it turns out to be too thick, then it will be difficult to work with it and make thin seams. Add some cold water and stir again.

So, to build a furnace, we will need the following materials:

• Masonry mortar (sand, red oven clay).
• Red ceramic brick M150 – 120 pieces.
• Fireclay bricks – 40 pieces.
• Foundation material (cement, graphite, sand).
• Ruberoid.
• Asbestos cord, galvanized wire.
• Plywood or boards for creating formwork.
• Reinforcing mesh for foundation construction.
• Grate.
• Metal stove for one burner (cast iron).
• Ash pan and ash pan (blower) door.
• Cast iron firebox door.
• Chimney duct damper.
• Chimney view.
• Metal chimney cap.

Tools needed to build a furnace.

• Building level.
• Shovel
• Construction marker.
• Goniometer.
• Spatula, rule.
• Master OK.
• Measuring tape (roulette).
• Construction plumb.

Important! When laying a furnace, much depends on the quality of the clay. Ideally, use red river clay of medium fat content, which has been on outdoors at least 2 years. Make exactly as much solution as you can handle in “1 go”. The solution quickly becomes thick and difficult to work with.

Step 2. Preparing bricks for laying the stove

Before starting to lay the stove, it is necessary to lay out all the bricks in advance and prepare them according to the ordering scheme.

This stage includes dividing the brick into ½ or ¼ parts and cutting off the corners.

Study the diagram carefully and see which pieces of bricks you will need for each row.

If necessary, you can number the brick so that later it is easy to navigate which row to insert it into.

How to properly split a brick? Before “beating off” the required part of the brick, according to the diagram, you first need to make a groove. This can be done using a hacksaw or file.

To make ½ brick, make 1 groove.

For 1/6 or 1/8 brick, make a groove on all sides of the brick.

Step 3. Choosing a location for the stove

This is very important stage in laying the furnace, which is advisable to do even at the stage of building a house.

But there are times when the decision to lay a stove arises among home owners already in the process of using the dacha. In this case, determine the place where it will be easiest to remove the chimney.

It is also important to evaluate the distance between the stove and windows and doors. After all, cold air blowing from the doors can interfere with the natural circulation of heat in the house, reducing the efficiency of the stove.

In addition, the stove should not interfere with free movement around the room. It should become one with the space without creating inconvenience. In many ways, the placement of the stove depends on the purpose.

The heating and cooking model is best placed in the kitchen, and the fireplace stove will look beautiful in the living room.

• The distance to the nearest wall should be at least 25 cm.
• The chimney must not pass through beams.
• The floor and wall will have to be lined with fire-resistant material.
• It is better to place the fireplace near the inner wall of the house. To increase efficiency, it makes sense to install a stove in the space between the kitchen and living room. Thus, one stove will heat two rooms at once.

An excellent place to place the stove is the corner of the room, only if there is no Entrance door, from which cold air will blow out the flame.

Step 4. Construction of the foundation

To build a brick kiln, you must complete separate foundation. If it is laid during the same cycle as the construction of a house, completing it is not a difficult task.

If you decide to lay the stove after the completion of the general construction, then it will be necessary to remove part of the finished floor and go deep into the ground.

Why is it so important to perform a separate foundation? A brick oven, no matter what size it is, has a lot of weight, which will create a lot of pressure on the foundation. When shrinking, the house will sag. This should in no way affect the shape or design of the stove.

That is, the general foundation of the house should not pull the stove along with it, as this can lead to a violation of its sealing and deterioration of its technical properties.

Attention! Before laying bricks on the mortar, lay out all the bricks “dry”. First, it will allow you to see if you have enough material. And secondly, you will be able to see difficult moments at the draft stage that you will have to pay special attention to.

Step 5. Laying the stove

Attention! Before laying the stove, place the bricks in a bowl of cold water so that they absorb moisture. This way they will not draw water from the masonry mortar.

Fill this gap with sand. The entire area under the stove will be practically occupied by grates, which will ensure good and easy care of the stove, as well as complete burning of the wood.

We block the ash door with a brick.

Installation of the combustion door

We install the combustion door, having previously wrapped it with asbestos cord. To make it easier to install, place the door on a thick wire and support it with bricks on both sides. Then these bricks will need to be removed.

• 6th row. Closes the furnace door.

Here we begin to form a smoke channel pipe, creating overlaps for two vertical channels.

We lay the base of the firebox, which is made of fireclay bricks.

• From rows 7-9 we lay out the firebox with fireclay bricks according to the diagram.

In this row, two bricks covering the grate should be cut at an angle of 45 degrees.

• Row 10 - cover the oven. We create a partition from brick, raising it by 2 cm. Apply a clay-sand mortar to the oven, to the level of the partition. We are preparing a place for installing a hob.

It is necessary to make recesses in the bricks for reliable fixation with the slab and create thermal niches for the expansion of the metal. Immediately place the slab on a dry surface and number the bricks - this will make it easy for you to later lay the brick on the mortar and avoid making mistakes with the correct recesses for the slab.

We lay an asbestos strip on the brick (to expand the metal).

Step 6. Exit the chimney through the roof

This is a responsible step that should ensure complete safety of the furnace operation.

Follow the SNIP standards when withdrawing brick pipe through the roof. According to these standards, the gap between the roof and the chimney must be at least 13-25 cm.

Around the place where the pipe passes through the roof, it is necessary to insulate it with thermal insulation materials. This will provide reliable protection from cold air blasts and ensure reliable fire safety.

If the stove is being installed in an already residential building with a finished roof, it will be necessary to remove part of the roof. After installing the pipe, you will need to completely ensure the integrity of the roof in this place so that during rain or snow, moisture does not get inside.

To waterproof a stone pipe, a special plate is used, which resembles a kind of pedestal around the chimney. The joining of slate and metal plate is done using sealant.

If you want to simplify the task, then the chimney will not be difficult to complete using steel pipes kind of sandwich. They have stylish look and easy to assemble. In addition, they have much less weight than brick and will not create as much pressure on the foundation.

Determining the required height chimney, be guided not only by the height of the roof, but also by the height of the ridge.

The efficiency of heating the room and the presence of draft directly depend on correctly calculated parameters.

The edge of the pipe must protrude above the “ridge” of the roof by at least 0.5 meters, otherwise the turbulence that forms around the roof can prevent good draft and will constantly blow cold air into the chimney.

We complete the construction of the chimney with a metal grate. It will prevent debris from entering the chimney.

We put a metal cap on top, which reliably protects the pipe from precipitation.

Step 7. Furnace lining

There are many ways to beautifully veneer a stove for a summer cottage.

As decorative material clinker tiles, tiles, decorative plaster, artificial stone, etc. can be used.

Or you can simply leave the stove in its original form, especially if you bought high-quality, beautiful brick.

Keep in mind that any facing material reduces heat transfer. Therefore, if you do not want to lose thermal properties, you can cover the stove with a thin layer of decorative plaster.

Step 8. Lighting the stove

After completely lining the furnace, you need to take a technological break for 10-14 days until the structure is completely dried. Leave the door wide open.

When you are sure that the masonry mortar is completely dry, you can carry out the first test firing of the stove. There is no need to rush and immediately, after laying, light the firewood.

Premature lighting of a damp stove can cause it to crack. For the first time, use ¼ of the firewood, add small logs. This will allow the structure to dry well from the inside. Do not exceed the maximum temperature of 60-65 degrees in the first week of operation.

• Do not use trash for kindling.
• The firebox door must be closed when lighting.
• Warm up the oven gradually, do not immediately turn on high heat.
• Use high-quality, well-dried firewood.

For ease of use of a country stove, you can make a stylish one with your own hands, which will become a decorative and functional element in your home.

As you can see, if you follow a clear ordering scheme, it is not so difficult to build a beautiful and high-quality country stove.

Video: Laying a brick kiln “dry”

Below we provide a detailed master class on laying a brick stove for a summer cottage.

Video. Master class on laying a stove for a summer residence

A stove brings coziness and comfort, so rarely does a private home do without it. The services of professional stove makers are quite expensive and not everyone can afford them. We will tell you how to properly build a brick stove.

Types of furnaces - classification depending on parameters

Laying stoves is not an easy task, but anyone with knowledge and patience can cope with it. When choosing a stove, take into account the parameters by which they are classified. The first thing to pay attention to is its purpose. Heating stoves are intended only for heating; they can accumulate heat and release it for a long time. To do this, the external walls are laid out in half a brick, or even a whole one. They warm up slowly and cool down slowly, do not heat up much, are massive, high consumption bricks They also use quick heating stoves, which are less massive, give off heat well, but cool down quickly.

The most common type in Russia is heating and cooking stoves. They will not only heat the room, but also cook food. In addition to a cast iron stove, they almost always have an oven. In addition, they can be built-in: a water heating boiler, a container for heating water, niches for drying, and beds. A Russian oven of this type has a chamber for baking bread and pies. They differ from conventional cookers in their high efficiency, high heat capacity, retain heat for a long time, and stable draft.

For greater heat transfer to conventional kitchen stoves connect the heating panel. This is the cheapest construction in terms of material costs and labor: you will need up to 200 bricks to heat small room. A very good option for small cottages. The stove, in addition to the heating panel, can be equipped with an oven, a water heating boiler, and a tank for heating water.

Fuel tank - heat transfer and fuel affect the device

The simplest device is a heating stove, which has two parts: a firebox and smoke circuits. Other types of ovens contain additional devices. The main part of any stove is the firebox. It has certain requirements, in particular, it must be of sufficient size: it must contain almost all the fuel in one stack. Air must be supplied in the required volume, and the temperature must be constantly maintained.

If the size of the firebox is insufficient, low heat transfer is observed. The width depends on the required heat transfer: up to 1 thousand. kcal - 12 cm, up to 3 thousand - 27 cm, if more - up to 50 cm. For convenience, the dimensions of the firebox are taken as multiples of the brick. The length is made from 26 cm to 51 cm, the longest is intended for firewood. The fuel used affects the height: 6–15 rows (42–100 cm). The grate is placed a row or two below the door to prevent coals from falling out. Often the rear part is tilted higher than the front for better combustion.

Fireboxes: a – wood; b – peat; c – coal.

For the firebox, fireclay bricks are used, with which it is laid out or lined from the inside. The total thickness of the walls is at least ⅟ 2 bricks. The firebox, made in the form of a vault, improves combustion quality. All types of fuel burn well in a wood firebox. Coal requires reinforced grates 4 cm thick and good blowing, for which the dimensions of the grate are equal to the length of the ash pan under the firebox.

Smoke circulation - advantages and disadvantages of different systems

The smoke circulation system increases efficiency - gases, when moving from the firebox through channels and chambers, give off heat to the walls. It is important to maintain the ratio between the volume of the firebox and the internal surface of the smoke circulation. If there is an excess of gas channel area, the temperature drops so much that condensation appears. A small internal area reduces efficiency - hot gases fly into the pipe.

Heat is best absorbed when the ratio of the areas of the outer walls of the stove, which give off heat, and the inside of the smoke circulation is 1:3.

The cross-section, number and location of smoke circulations determine their internal area. It is better to fold the channels in multiples of the size of the brick; they should ensure the free passage of gases. The cross-section must correspond to the thermal performance of the furnace: it smokes when the cross-section is insufficient and does not heat up well when it is excessive. A cross section of 170–250 cm 2 is used when the heat transfer of furnaces is 3 thousand kcal or less, from 3 to 5 thousand kcal - up to 300 cm 2.

Smoke circulation systems can have channels (one or more) or be channelless.

Various types of smoke circulation: a – multi-turn vertical; b – multi-turn horizontal; c – single-turn vertical; d – multi-channel single-turn; d – channelless.

As part of a single-turn system, there is one lift channel and the same or several parallel down channels. Parallel channels have low resistance to gases, the furnace array heats up more evenly. The single-turn system has a disadvantage, which manifests itself in significantly greater heating of the upper part than the lower one. In small stoves it is compensated by significant heating of the firebox walls. For large furnaces, a scheme is used in which hot gases flow through channels from below, thus ensuring normal heating of the room.

A multi-turn system consists of vertical or horizontal channels arranged in series. First drawback similar system the fact that the gases have to experience considerable resistance in numerous turns. The second drawback is the strikingly unequal heating of the walls of the first and last channel, which often causes cracking of the masonry. Vertical channels provide good heat transfer, horizontal channels provide draft, which helps with pipes of insufficient height.

Fire safety requires that the top of the furnace floor be 40 cm from the ceiling of combustible materials. The section of the chimney from the furnace to the cutting in the ceiling is called a neck; its smallest height is three rows of bricks. The neck is a place for installing valves or views, which are closed at the end of combustion. If such devices are installed lower, a lot of heat is lost. Gases are released outside through a chimney, the design of which will be discussed below.

Choosing a stove - savings, heat transfer, simplicity and design

When deciding on the design of the furnace, its ability to satisfy certain requirements is taken into account. Efficiency plays an important role when low fuel consumption ensures an acceptable room temperature. Few people want to heat the stove even twice a day, so preference is given to designs that evenly release heat over 24 hours. These include stoves that heat well in the lower part.

The maximum surface temperature should not exceed 95°, otherwise a burning smell will be felt. Simplicity of design and compliance with fire safety requirements also play an important role. Finally, the design of the stove should match the overall aesthetic of the room.

But the most important requirement for any stove is the ability to heat all rooms. To do this, heat loss is determined based on the volume, size of windows and doors, and the characteristics of the material from which the house is built. Calculations show that every m 3 of a room with brick walls with an average winter temperature-25° loses 60 kcal/hour. One square meter of the oven is capable of delivering 500 kcal/hour.

When making calculations, we first determine the heat loss of the house. Let's assume you have a normal brick dacha 7x9 with a ceiling height of 2.5 m. A total of 4 separate rooms, which are planned to be heated by one stove installed in the middle of the room. First we determine the cubic capacity: 7 × 9 × 2.5 = 157.5. Multiply by the heat loss of one cubic meter. meters: 157.5×60=9450. This means that you need a furnace with a heat output of 1000 kcal/h; some reserve should always be made. A simpler calculation is based on the fact that one square meter of floor area occupied by the stove heats 30–35 m2 of room.

Placement - how to determine the best location

The location of the stove is chosen by everyone at their own discretion, but still, it should be taken into account general recommendations. First of all, the stove in the house should give out maximum heat. If you plan to heat one room, the stove is installed a short distance from the wall, at least 15 cm, but it can also be placed close to the walls. Then two out of four sides will give up heat energy. On diagrams a, b you can see the layout options with an air gap near the wall, which is also called a setback.

If the stove structure will heat two adjacent rooms, then the most effective option when to build it in a partition (same figure, c). It is also possible to heat three adjacent rooms, as in Figure d. The stove is also located in a room common to all three rooms. In one room there is one side of the stove, in the rest there are two. On Figures d,f options are shown when the firebox is located on the veranda or in the utility room. This is a good option for small houses.

In a four-room home, it is recommended to install the stove at the junction of two internal partitions so that one wall of the heating device goes into each room. This option makes it possible to heat from the kitchen, living room, or veranda without bringing garbage into the bedroom. A rug with a couch is perfect for a summer house with several rooms. The bed is taken to any room the owner prefers.

Construction of the foundation - a reliable foundation for the furnace

After determining the design and choosing a location, you can begin to bring the project to life. We start with the foundation, which is best done simultaneously with the foundation of the building. In the case of building a stove in an already built house, we dismantle the floor and fill it. It makes no sense to place even the smallest and lightest stove on a wooden floor. In just a few years, even the thickest boards and joists begin to deteriorate, sag, and the stove will have to be rebuilt.

The size of the foundation is larger than the dimensions of the stove by 30 cm in all directions.

It is necessary to make a foundation for a brick oven. It should not be in contact with the foundation of the walls; between them we provide a gap of at least 5 cm. The space between the two foundations is filled with heat-insulating material. Separate foundations will ensure independent settling of the walls of the building and the furnace. If you connect both foundations, this often leads to misalignment.

To ensure that less heat from the stove goes into the ground, we lay thermal insulation on top of the concrete. It can be as follows: first, a slab of mineral fiber or basalt insulation, then a choice of foil or tin. There is insulation on top again, and sheet metal on top. We soak the felt in clay milk and top it with a layer of insulation. When it dries, we begin laying. Such reliable thermal insulation will protect against heat loss even in the harshest conditions.

Clay mortar for masonry - preparation secrets

Brick stoves are laid on a clay-sand mortar. Clay has unique properties, turning into stone after exposure to fire, and adheres well to brick. To achieve maximum quality from it, the solution should be prepared from pre-prepared ingredients with an optimal ratio.

First, remove impurities from the clay. Grind and place in an oblong container, concentrating only at one end. Raise the part of the container where the clay is located a little and pour a little water from below. Gradually take the clay with a spatula and mix with water until a homogeneous paste-like substance is formed. We transfer it to another container until the required volume of solution is collected.

Soak the purchased dry clay in a wide and deep bowl. Fill 10–20 cm, cover completely with water. After a day, stir, add water if necessary and leave again for a day. When a paste-like mixture is obtained, the oven solution is considered ready. For strength, add a little salt to the solution: up to 250 g per bucket. The mass should slide off the trowel without leaving any traces. Water should not appear on the surface of the solution; if this happens, add washed sand to the solution.

For 50 pieces of brick laid flat, you will need a bucket of mortar with a joint thickness of 3–5 mm.

The solution must have the required plasticity and fat content. To determine the quality of the solution, we take clay in five equal portions. We add different amounts of sand to four: 0.25, 0.5, 1, 1.5, and leave the fifth without adding sand. Mix a solution from each part, make pancakes out of them and dry them. We determine quality by touch and by appearance. If a pancake crumbles, there is excess sand in it; if it is cracked, there is not enough sand. If the sample does not crack and is homogeneous, it has the optimal ratio of its constituent parts. It is in this proportion that we prepare the solution.

There are many secrets in laying brick kilns with your own hands that only experienced craftsmen know, and unknown to beginners. First of all, this concerns the choice of brick. Ceramic brick of a grade no lower than M-250 is used, which is more expensive than the usual M-100, M-150, but more homogeneous and can withstand constant heating and cooling. You can make decorative elements from it; ordinary brick is of little use for this.

The internal walls of the firebox are lined with refractory bricks that can withstand temperatures of 1200°. But behind it there is a ceramic brick that can only withstand 650°. When the firebox heats up too much, the temperature is transferred to it, shortening its service life. To extend the life of the red brick in the firebox, it is insulated from the fireproof basalt with 5 mm cardboard.

Controlling the mortar on the facing row takes a lot of time. To make the work go faster, glue on the front part of the brick masking tape, which is then removed. The facing row comes out beautiful and neat. Experienced stove makers advise not to bother with preparing clay-sand mortar, but to buy ready-made sand mixture for furnaces. It is packaged in 5, 10 and 25 kg.

It is more convenient to lay out any lintel, overlay and other elements if you use metal corner. It is laid out from the inside, pressing the brick on both sides. The length of the corner should not exceed 0.8 m, otherwise it may sag from heating. Avoid using corners from the front side. Besides the fact that it is unsightly, there is a high probability of getting burned if you accidentally touch it. Instead of corners on the front side, 16 mm threaded studs are used to secure the front trim.

You can extend the service life of the stove if you hide all the fittings in grooves with a depth equal to the thickness of the products.

Every stove maker strives to lay out a row with a perfectly even seam, but not everyone succeeds. There is a simple technique: 8 mm metal rods are laid on each row, preferably rectangular. Mortar is laid between two rods, then bricks. When the last brick is laid, the rods are removed. Bricks cannot be upset, otherwise the masonry will move in waves. The rods are lubricated before use machine oil to make it easier to remove from the masonry. Their length should not exceed 1 m, otherwise the masonry will be damaged when they are pulled out.

Chimney - how to ensure safety and good draft

The stove in the house is usually equipped with a cap pipe, which consists of a neck, a fluff near the ceiling, a riser in the attic, an otter near the roof and a cap. The fluff protects wooden crafts ceiling and roof from heating and possible fire during combustion. In these places the pipe is made thicker, gradually adding bricks. Metal can be used to support the brick courses, but they should not block the inside of the chimney.

In the place where the riser passes through the roof, an otter is made, which will prevent rain and snow from entering the attic through the cracks. They are covered with roofing steel - a collar, the ends of which are launched under the protrusions of the otter. The chimney is crowned with a cap. Its height is determined by its location on the roof. In the middle of the ridge and at a distance of no more than 1.5 m from it, it should protrude 0.5 m above the ridge. At a distance from the ridge to 3 m, the top of the head is level with the ridge. At a greater distance, the height should be ensured at an angle of no more than 10° relative to the ridge.

The chimney is designed to provide good draft. It increases as the temperature of the exhaust gases increases, but doing so is not economically feasible, so the pipe is driven to the required height, which should be 5–6 m from the grate to the top of the head. The plastered inner surface and the absence of cracks in the brickwork also increase traction. To eliminate the influence of wind that can interfere with traction, a deflector is installed on the head.

Swede - the best option for a heating and cooking stove

The design has been proven for centuries, small-sized and economical. With dimensions of 880×1010 mm and a height of 2170 mm, it is capable of heating more than 30 m2. Typically, the firebox and stove are located in the kitchen, and the back wall of the stove opens into the living space. It works great on wood, coal and briquettes. In summer, it is recommended to burn with small portions of large coal or pellets; firewood burns too quickly in hot weather. Coal consumption in heating season 1.5 tons.

For construction we stock up:

• brick M-150 – 570 pieces;
• 200 kg of dry solution;
• 1.7 m steel angle 40×40;
• 0.65 m of steel strip 5×50;
• roofing iron for installation in front of the firebox;
• flat slate to cover the cooking chamber.

You will need standard equipment for the stove: a grate, a door for the firebox, a blower, a cast-iron stove with burners, valves - 2, cleanouts - 3. The order of the Swedish stove with a hob is presented below.

Important structural element is an oven that plays the role of an automatic switch between summer and winter operation. It works as an aerodynamic barrier for gases escaping from the firebox. Gases are retained in it, completely burning under the hob. They come out hot into the smoke circulation channels and warm up the oven well. For this reason, the wall farthest from the firebox is sometimes made double and a heat exchanger with a hot water tank is placed in it.

Excessive heating of the hob is not observed; hot air from the niche goes into the room. In the summer, the kitchen, with the correct firebox, heats up no more than from gas stove. Fuel in small quantities in summer warms up the hob well, as gases are retained by the oven. The burner on the left heats up more, on the right - less, but enough for cooking.

Dutch - a small-sized stove device with high heat transfer

This is a unique, simple structure of colossal efficiency. Compared to the classic Russian stove, it has more modest dimensions and thinner walls, which contributes to rapid heating. Even the owners of stylish modern cottages are attracted by its elegance and efficiency. When laying a Dutch oven, any variations are possible, which will not have any impact negative influence on its effectiveness.

This is a purely heating stove, but, if desired, it can be equipped with a hob. The smallest structure is 0.5 × 0.5 m, the most massive one will need only 650 bricks, including 200 fire-resistant ones. The main material is brick of any quality, which does not affect its stability and functionality. But for the firebox it is necessary to use refractory bricks. It warms up quickly, cools down slowly, and uses fuel sparingly. The Dutch woman is capable of heating up to 70 m 2.

As can be seen from the diagram, the Dutch oven does not have a grate, fuel is loaded into the firebox, and the combustion intensity is low. Efficiency is achieved through a special smoke circulation device. Gases from the firebox rise through the first channel and return through the second channel. There they heat up again and go into the third channel. In the fourth and fifth channels the same principle is repeated, and only through the sixth channel the gases go into the chimney.

Today, numerous solid fuel manufacturers heating equipment offer us the widest range of metal furnaces and boilers, which is replenished with more and more new models from year to year. But despite all their advantages, owners of non-gasified houses still have the honor of an ordinary brick stove - this is evidenced by numerous reviews on thematic forums. What is the reason for the truly popular love for this unit? Our article will not only answer this question, but will also introduce the reader to various types of stoves and the technology for constructing a brick type with your own hands.

Advantages and disadvantages of a brick stove in the house

So, let's try to understand why an ancient heating device is often preferable to its modern high-tech counterparts. There are several reasons:

• The stove body is an excellent heat accumulator: Thanks to this property, a brick stove has to be heated much less often than a conventional steel or even cast iron one. Some varieties retain heat for up to 24 hours, while in the firebox metal furnace Firewood needs to be added every 4–6 hours.
• The ability to accumulate heat makes a brick stove more economical and less harmful to the environment than its metal “substitutes”. The fuel in it burns in an optimal mode - with the greatest heat transfer and almost complete decomposition of organic molecules into water and carbon dioxide. The excess heat generated in this case is absorbed by the brickwork and then gradually transferred to the room.
• The outer surface of the oven does not heat up to a high temperature.

Due to this, the thermal radiation generated by this unit is softer than that of hot steel stoves. In addition, upon contact with hot metal, the dust contained in the air burns, releasing harmful volatile substances (this can be recognized by the characteristic unpleasant odor). Of course, you can’t get poisoned by them, but they certainly cause harm to your health.

• A brick oven (this does not apply to stone ovens) emits steam when heated, and when it cools, it absorbs it again. This process is called furnace breathing. Thanks to it, the relative humidity of the heated air always remains at a comfortable level - within 40–60%. When operating any other heating device that is not equipped with a humidifier, the relative humidity in the room decreases, that is, the air becomes dry.

A steel stove has nowhere to put excess heat, so it has to be either heated frequently, adding small portions of fuel, or operated in smoldering mode. In the latter case, the operating time on one load of fuel increases, but it burns with incomplete heat transfer and with a large amount of carbon monoxide and other substances harmful to the environment - the so-called. heavy hydrocarbon radicals.

It is not difficult to verify this: a brick stove produces noticeable dark smoke only during kindling, while black smoke constantly pours out of the chimney of a steel stove in which the fuel is smoldering. Metal solid fuel long-burning heaters (full-fledged, and not so-called gas generator stoves that only imitate gas generation) do not have this drawback. But they are very expensive, have a complex design and require power supply, which a brick oven can easily do without.

What can be opposed to all of the above? A brick oven takes a long time to warm up a cooled room. Therefore, homeowners are recommended to acquire an additional steel convector, which will heat the air in a forced mode while the stove is heating.

It should also be taken into account that a brick oven is a rather massive structure that must be built together with the house. And ideally this should be done experienced master, which still needs to be found.

Application of brick kilns

The scope of use of stoves is not limited to their main functions - heating and cooking. Here are some other tasks this unit can solve:

1. Smoking meat and fish.
2. Melting of scrap metal (cupola furnace).
3. Hardening and cementing of metal parts (muffle furnaces).
4. Firing ceramic products.
5. Heating blanks in a forge workshop.
6. Maintaining the required temperature and humidity conditions in the bath.

But in poultry houses, greenhouses, greenhouses and livestock farms it is not recommended to build a brick oven: here it will have to breathe putrefactive fumes, which will lead to rapid deterioration.

Types of structures

The above diagram may vary in different furnaces. The most common options are Dutch, Swedish, Russian and bell-shaped.

Dutch

This scheme is called channel serial. Such a stove is very simple to manufacture and its design can easily be adjusted to any room, but its maximum efficiency is only 40%.

Swedish unit

A very good option for a heating and cooking stove.

A very successful option for a heating and cooking stove. Its design is called a chamber design. The chamber, the walls of which are washed by hot flue gases, is used as an oven. The duct convector is located behind the stove and occupies the entire space from floor to ceiling. This scheme has a number of advantages:

• Efficiency at 60%;
• in the oven on the side you can install a heat exchanger to heat water, which will be stored in a storage tank on the roof of the oven;
• Gases enter the convector relatively cold (they burn out in the chamber part), so for its construction you can use building bricks and ordinary cement-sand mortar;
• a convector with this shape heats the room to its entire height as evenly as possible;
• near the Swedish oven you can quickly warm up and dry yourself if you open the oven door.

Furnaces of this type are difficult to manufacture and require very quality materials and need a foundation.

Bell furnace

Self-regulating scheme: flue gases enter the chimney only after complete combustion under the hood.

This mechanism provides an efficiency of over 70%, but this furnace is quite complex to manufacture (the design involves high loads). Yes, and it can only be used for heating.

Russian stove-bed

The design of a Russian stove, like an English fireplace, is called flow-through. It does not have a convector.

The design of a Russian stove, like an English fireplace, is called flow-through. It does not have a convector. The owner of a Russian stove benefits from the following:

• Efficiency reaches 80%;
• the building has an interesting appearance;
• such dishes of ours become available for preparation national cuisine, which cannot be cooked except in a Russian oven.

You can fold a Russian stove yourself if you strictly follow the drawings. The slightest deviations can ruin the design.

General structure of the furnace, drawing

The design of the furnace is not particularly complex.

In the brick mass there is a chamber with a door in which fuel burns - a firebox (in the figure - positions 8 and 9). In its lower part there is a grate (item 7), on which fuel is placed and through which air enters the firebox. Under the grate there is another chamber, called an ash pan or ash pit, which is also closed by a door (positions 4 and 6). Through this door, air from outside enters the oven and through it, the ash that has fallen into it is removed from the ash pan.

Through the hole at the rear wall, the flue gases enter the hailo (pos. 11) - an inclined channel directed towards the front wall. The hailo ends with a narrowing - a nozzle. Next comes a U-shaped channel, called a gas convector (item 16).

The walls of the gas convector heat the air moving through a special channel inside the furnace. This channel is called an air convector (pos. 14). At its exit there is a door (pos. 18), which is closed in the summer.

The chimney contains the following elements:

• cleaning door (item 12): the smoke exhaust duct is cleaned through it;
• valve for adjusting the combustion mode (item 15);
• view (pos. 17): also a valve, through which, after kindling, when all carbon monoxide has already evaporated, block the chimney to retain heat.

The thermal insulation surrounding the chimney at the intersection of the attic floor and the roof is called cutting (pos. 23). At the intersection of the ceiling, the chimney walls are made thicker. This widening is called fluffing (pos. 21), it is also considered cutting.

After crossing the roof, the chimney has another widening - an otter (pos. 24). It prevents rain moisture from penetrating into the gap between the roof and the chimney.

Other positions:

• 1 and 2 - foundation with thermal and waterproofing;
• 3 - legs or trenches: for a stove with such elements it is required less bricks, besides, from below it has additional surface heating;
• 5 - the beginning of a special air channel (vent), through which uniform heating of the room along the height is achieved;
• 10 - combustion chamber;
• 13 - bend of the air convector, called overflow or pass;
• 20 - furnace roof;
• 22 - attic floor.

Preparation for construction

Necessary materials, selection

When constructing a furnace, the following types of bricks are used:

1. Construction ceramic brick (red). They are laid out in the lowest rows - the so-called flood part (indicated in the diagram by oblique shading), as well as that part of the chimney in which temperatures below 80 degrees are observed.
2. Kiln ceramic brick. Also red, but compared to construction grade it is of a higher quality (brand - M150) and can withstand higher temperatures - up to 800 degrees. Externally, they can be distinguished by size: the dimensions of the stove are 230x114x40(65) mm, while those of the construction one are 250x125x65 mm. The fire (furnace) part of the furnace is laid out with stove bricks; in the diagram it is indicated by checkered shading.
3. Fireclay brick. The firebox is lined with this material from the inside. It can withstand temperatures up to 1600 degrees, but its advantages are not limited to this. Fireclay brick combines high heat capacity (it is a very “capacious” heat accumulator) and equally high thermal conductivity.

Note! Facing brick in this case it cannot be used.

Due to the high thermal conductivity, it is impossible to lay out the fire part with fireclay bricks alone - the oven will heat up too much and cool down very quickly due to intense thermal radiation. That's why outer surface must be posted stove brick at least half a brick.

The dimensions of fireclay bricks are the same as those of stove bricks. It is often recommended to determine its quality by color depth, but this method is only valid for those products for which the clay was mined in one place. If we compare fireclay clay from different deposits, the color does not always provide an objective characteristic: dark material may well be inferior in quality to light yellow.

A more reliable indicator of quality is the absence of pores and foreign particles visible to the eye, as well as a fine-grained structure (in the picture, a high-quality sample is on the left). When tapped with a metal object, a high-quality fireclay brick should produce a loud and clear sound, and when dropped from a certain height, it breaks into large pieces. A low-quality one will respond with dull sounds when tapped, and when dropped, it will crumble into many small fragments.

Also, during the construction of the furnace, the following solutions are used:

1. Cement-sand: those parts of the furnace that consist of ordinary building bricks are laid on ordinary cement-sand mortar.
2. Cement-sand High Quality: this solution, consisting of mountain sand and Portland cement grade M400 and higher, is used if the furnace is supposed to be fired irregularly. The fact is that a dried clay solution, if not heated sufficiently, can become saturated with moisture and become limp again. That is why, in areas with temperatures below 200–250 degrees (in the diagram - oblique shading with filling), instead of clay, a high-quality cement-sand mortar based on mountain sand is used. We emphasize that this should be done only if the stove will often be idle during the cold season.
3. Clay solution. This solution also requires mountain sand. It is characterized by the absence of organic residues, due to which the seams would quickly crumble. But now it is not necessary to buy expensive mountain sand: excellent quality solutions are obtained using sand from ground ceramic or fireclay bricks.
4. High-quality clay is more expensive than sand, so they try to minimize its amount in the solution.

To determine the smallest required amount of this material, subject to the use of sand from ground bricks, proceed as follows:

• the clay is soaked for 24 hours, then mixed with water until it looks like plasticine or thick dough;
• dividing the clay into portions, prepare 5 variants of the solution: with the addition of 10% sand, 25, 50, 75 and 100% (by volume);
• after drying for 4 hours, each portion of the solution is rolled into a cylinder 30 cm long and 10–15 mm in diameter. Each cylinder must be wound around a blank with a diameter of 50 mm.

Let's analyze the result: a solution without cracks or with small cracks in the very surface layer is suitable for any task; with a crack depth of 1–2 mm, the solution is considered suitable for masonry at a temperature of no more than 300 degrees; For deeper cracks, the solution is considered unsuitable.

Tool

In addition to the standard set of tools for masonry work, which includes:

• trowel;
• hammer-pick;
• grooves for seams;
• shovel for mortar.

The stove maker must have an ordering rack. It has a cross-section of 5x5 cm, staples for fastening at the seams and marks corresponding to the position of individual rows. By installing 4 rows in the corners, it will be easy to ensure the verticality of the masonry and the equality of the width of the seams between the rows.

Calculation of a simple heating device

The method for calculating a furnace is extremely complex and requires a lot of experience, but there is a simplified version proposed by I.V. Kuznetsov. It demonstrates a fairly accurate result, provided that the outside of the house is well insulated. For 1 m2 of furnace surface area, the following heat transfer values ​​are accepted:

• under normal conditions: 0.5 kW;
• at severe frosts when the stove is heated particularly intensively (no more than 2 weeks): 0.76 kW.

Thus, a furnace with a height of 2.5 m and dimensions in plan of 1.5x1.5 m, having a surface area of ​​17.5 m 2, will generate 8.5 kW in normal mode, and 13.3 kW of heat in intensive mode. This performance will be sufficient for a house with an area of ​​80–100 m2.

The calculation of the firebox is also very complicated, but today there is no need for it. Rather than designing and manufacturing a homemade firebox, it is better to purchase a ready-made one in a store: it is already designed according to all the rules and will cost less.

When choosing a firebox, consider the following:

1. The size of the firebox and the location of the fasteners must correspond to the standard size of the brick used.
2. For a stove that is used from time to time, you can purchase a welded sheet steel firebox; for constant use you need to buy only a cast iron firebox.
3. The depth of the ash pit (the lower narrowing of the firebox) should be one third of the height of the combustion chamber if the furnace will be fired with coal or peat most of the time, and one fifth if the main fuel is wood or pellets.

The cross-section of chimneys that meet standard requirements (straight vertical stroke, height of the head above the grate - from 4 to 12 m) is selected according to the recommendations specified in SNiP, depending on the power of the furnace:

• with heat transfer up to 3.5 kW: 140x140 mm;
• from 3.5 to 5.2 kW: 140x200 mm;
• from 5.2 to 7.2 kW: 140x270 mm;
• from 7.2 to 10.5 kW: 200x200 mm;
• from 10.5 to 14 kW: 200x270 mm.

It is impossible to accurately calculate the power of the stove, so sometimes there may be a discrepancy between the accepted cross-section of the chimney and the performance of the unit - the stove begins to smoke. In this case, it is enough to simply increase the height of the chimney by 0.25–0.5 m.

Empirical formulas have been developed to determine the number of bricks, but they give an error of up to 15%. The only way to make an accurate calculation manually is to simply count the bricks in order, which will only take about an hour. A more modern option is to simulate a stove in one of the ovens designed for this purpose. computer programs. The system itself will draw up a specification, which will indicate the exact number of whole bricks, as well as cut, shaped, etc.

Choosing a location, scheme

The method of installing the stove depends on the size of the house and the location of various rooms in it. Here is an option for a small country house:

In the cold season, such a stove will efficiently heat the entire building, and in the summer, with the window open, you can cook quite comfortably on it.

IN big house With permanent residence The oven can be positioned like this:

In this version, the fireplace stove installed in the living room is equipped with a purchased cast iron firebox with a door made of heat-resistant glass.

And thus a brick stove can be installed in an economy class home:

When considering the location of the furnace, you need to consider the following:

1. A structure containing more than 500 bricks must have its own foundation, which cannot be part of the foundation of the house.
2. The chimney should not come into contact with the attic floor beams or roof rafters. It should be taken into account that in the area where the attic floor intersects, it has a widening called fluff.
3. The minimum distance from the pipe to the roof ridge is 1.5 m.

There are exceptions to the first rule:

1. A hob with a low and wide body, equipped with a heating panel, can be installed without a foundation if the floor can withstand a load of at least 250 kg/m2.
2. In a house with a strip sectional foundation, a furnace with a volume of up to 1000 bricks can be erected at the intersection of the foundations of the internal walls (including T-shaped ones). In this case, the minimum distance from the furnace foundation to the foundation strips of the building is 1.2 m.
3. A small Russian stove can be erected on a foundation made of wooden beam with a section of 150x150 mm (the so-called guardianship), resting on the ground or rubble masonry of the building foundation.

Preparatory work consists of laying the foundation and laying thermal and waterproofing. If the furnace is equipped with trenches, a strip foundation is built under it, or a rubble foundation can be used. A conventional furnace (without trenches) is built on a monolithic reinforced concrete slab. On each side, the foundation must protrude beyond the outline of the stove by at least 50 mm.

The insulating “pie” is assembled in the following sequence:

• roofing material is laid on the foundation in 2 or 3 layers;
• 4–6 mm thick basalt cardboard or the same asbestos sheet is laid on top;
• then lay a sheet of roofing iron;
• All that's left to do is put it down last layer- basalt cardboard or felt impregnated with highly diluted masonry mortar.

Laying can only begin after upper layer will dry to the roofing iron.

Before starting masonry work, a fireproof covering must be built on the floor in front of the future furnace, which usually consists of a sheet of roofing iron laid on a lining of asbestos or basalt cardboard. One edge of the sheet is pressed against the first row of bricks, the rest are bent and nailed to the floor. The front edge of such a covering must be at least 300 mm away from the stove, while its side edges must extend beyond the stove by 150 mm on each side.

Step-by-step instruction

Laying rules in accordance with the order

The oven is placed in accordance with the order (see figure).

Adhere to the following rules:

1. The seams between the bricks in the arch of the firebox and the under-fire part can be up to 13 mm wide, in other cases - 3 mm. Deviations are allowed: upward - up to a width of 5 mm, downward - up to 2 mm.
2. It is impossible to bandage the seams between ceramic and fireclay masonry - these materials differ greatly in thermal expansion. For the same reason, seams in such areas, as well as around metal or concrete elements, are given a maximum thickness (5 mm).
3. The masonry must be carried out with bandaging of the seams, that is, each seam must overlap with the adjacent brick by at least a quarter of its (brick) length.
4. The laying out of each row begins with corner bricks, the position of which is checked by level and plumb. So that verticality does not have to be checked every time, cords are pulled strictly vertically along the corners of the stove (to do this, you need to drive nails into the ceiling and into the seams between the bricks) and then use them to guide you.
5. Doors and dampers are fixed in the masonry using binding wire inserted into the seams, or using clamps made from a 25x2 mm steel strip. The second option is for the firebox door (especially its upper part), oven and fire dampers: here the wire will quickly burn out.

In fluff and otter, only the external size of the chimney increases, the internal cross-section remains unchanged. The thickness of the walls increases gradually, for which plates cut from brick are added to the masonry. The inner surface of the chimney must be plastered.

How to make a heating unit with your own hands

The construction of the furnace body begins with the sub-furnace part.

1. In the absence of sufficient experience, the rows should first be laid out without mortar and thoroughly leveled, and only then the row should be transferred to the mortar. Also, novice craftsmen are recommended to lay out the furnace section of the furnace in formwork.
2. After laying the 3rd row, a blower door is installed on it.
3. It must be level. To seal the gap between the brick and the frame, the latter is wrapped with asbestos cord.
4. Next, the fire part is laid out, for which stove and fireclay bricks are used.
5. Before laying, the blocks are cleaned from dust with a brush. Ceramic bricks need to be moistened by dipping them into a container of water, then shaken off. Wetting fireclay bricks is not only not required, but also not allowed. Many stove makers apply the solution by hand, since it is not easy to lay a thin layer 3 mm thick with a trowel. The brick must be placed correctly immediately, without adjusting or knocking. If it was not possible to do this the first time, the operation must be repeated, after first removing the mortar spread on the brick - it can no longer be used.
6. After laying several more rows, the ash pan chamber is covered with a grate. It should lie on fireclay bricks, in which the corresponding grooves are cut.
7. Install the combustion door in the same order in which the blower door was installed.
8. Lay out the rows of the combustion chamber. If a low stove is being built, then the row of bricks above the fire door must be moved back somewhat so that they are not overturned by the heavy cast iron sheet when it is opened.
9. The combustion chamber is covered with a hob or roof (in pure heating stoves). Due to the significant difference in thermal expansion between cast iron and clay, the slab cannot be laid on the mortar - an asbestos cord must be placed under it.
10. Next, they continue laying the stove according to the order, creating a gas convector system. In order for soot to collect at the bottom of the gas convector, from where it is easily removed, the height of the lower interchannel transitions (flows) must be 30-50% greater than the upper ones (they are called passes). The edges of the passes need to be rounded.

Having completed the construction of the furnace body, they begin to construct the chimney.

Features of the formation of the arch

There are two types of vaults:

• flat: vaults of this type are laid from shaped bricks in the same way, but instead of a circle, a flat tray is used. A flat vault has one peculiarity: it must be perfectly symmetrical, otherwise it will crumble very soon. Therefore, even stove makers with sufficient experience build this part of the stove using purchased shaped bricks and the same pallets;
• semicircular (arched).

The latter are laid out using a pattern, also called a circle:

1. They begin by installing the outer support blocks on the mortar - thrust bearings, which are pre-cut according to the drawing of the vault, made in full size.
2. After the solution has dried, install the circle and lay out the wings of the vault.
3. The keystones are driven in with a log or a wooden hammer, having previously applied a thick layer of mortar to the installation site. At the same time, they monitor how the mortar is squeezed out of the masonry of the wings: if the masonry was completed without disturbances, this process will take place evenly throughout the entire vault.

The circle should be removed only after the solution has completely dried.

The angle between the axes of adjacent bricks in a semicircular vault should not exceed 17 degrees. At standard sizes blocks, the seam between them inside (from the firebox side) should have a width of 2 mm, and outside - 13 mm.

Rules and nuances of operation

For a stove to be economical, it must be maintained in good condition. A crack only 2 mm wide in the valve area will provide heat loss of 10% due to the uncontrolled flow of air through it.

The stove also needs to be heated correctly. If the blower is very open, 15 to 20% of the heat can fly out into the chimney, and if the combustion door is open while the fuel is burning, then all 40%.

The wood used to heat the stove must be dry. To do this, they need to be prepared ahead of time. Damp firewood produces less heat, and in addition, due to the abundance of moisture in it, a large amount of acidic condensate is formed in the chimney, which intensively destroys brick walls.

In order for the oven to heat up evenly, the thickness of the logs should be the same - about 8–10 cm.

Firewood is laid in rows or in a cage, so that there is a gap of 10 mm between them. There should be a distance of at least 20 mm from the top of the fuel fill to the top of the firebox; it’s even better if the firebox is 2/3 full.

The bulk of the fuel is ignited with a torch, paper, etc. It is prohibited to use acetone, kerosene or gasoline.

After kindling, you need to close the view so that the heat does not escape through the chimney.

When adjusting the draft during kindling, you need to be guided by the color of the flame. The optimal combustion mode is characterized by a yellow color of fire; if it turns white, the air is supplied in excess and a significant part of the heat is thrown into the chimney; The red color indicates a lack of air - the fuel does not burn completely, and a large amount of harmful substances is released into the atmosphere.

Cleaning (including soot removal)

Cleaning and repairing the stove is usually carried out in the summer, but in winter you will need to clean the chimney 2-3 times. Soot is an excellent heat insulator and if there is a large amount of it, the furnace will become less efficient.

Ash must be removed from the grate before each fire.

The draft in the furnace, and therefore its operating mode, is regulated by a viewer, a valve and a blower door. Therefore, the condition of these devices must be constantly monitored. Any faults or wear should be repaired or replaced immediately.

Video: how to fold a stove with your own hands

Whatever version of the brick stove you choose, it will only work effectively in a well-insulated house. Otherwise there will be no friendship between them.

The need for warmth and comfort in a private home arises already in mid-autumn, and it is good if the house has central heating. Those who have to heat their home autonomously will have to thoroughly prepare for the autumn-winter season. Modern boilers or electric fireplaces can solve the problem today, but they will not create that special, unique atmosphere of a live fire in the stove, accompanied by the crackling of wood. Therefore, it is quite correct if the following question arises for you: “How to build a brick stove with your own hands?” In this article we will look at the process of creating a brick oven in stages, taking into account diagrams and all the materials and tools necessary during the laying process. All you have to do is correctly repeat all the described processes, and you will become the owner of a high-quality home stove that will warm you on cold winter evenings.

It is very easy to make a stove out of brick if you have a clear idea of ​​what type of stove will ideally fit into the conditions of your building. To do this you need to familiarize yourself with brief characteristics private houses, and based on the information received, make the right choice. So, the types of stoves relative to the type of buildings.

1. Stove in a wooden house. An oven of this type needs a very reliable foundation. It is better to provide for the presence of a stove at the stage of building a house, then you can significantly reduce the cost of creating a foundation for stove equipment. If the stove was not included in the house construction project, then you will have to spend money on partial dismantling of the floors and subsequent Finishing work. There is no other way out. The best option for a wooden house there will be a compact stove made of brick heating and cooking type with medium heat capacity, as well as a fireplace stove or an option with a bread maker.

   

   

2. Classic Russian stove for a cottage. This option is losing popularity due to the massiveness and complexity of the masonry. Such a large-sized stove with the functions of cooking, water heating, heating and a sleeping place, that is, a sun lounger, is very convenient, but will not fit into a small house, and also requires the mandatory creation of an individual monolithic reinforced base.

   

3. Stove in a country house. An ideal option for a country house would be a stove with a hob and a heating water tank.

   

4. Stove in a cottage or country house. Cottages and dachas require visits only during certain seasons or on weekends, which means that in such a building it will be sufficient to install a small brick stove with a hob. In this case, it is worth taking a closer look at the stove design, built according to the summer version, when the heated air will be directed directly into the chimney, and not into the heat exchange channels.

   

   

5. Stove for a home with a sauna. If you have a bathhouse attached to your house, it is quite possible to build a brick stove with a built-in boiler for heating residential premises.

   

6. Barbecue oven. Such units are usually installed in attics, gazebos or summer kitchens. They can be modest in size or very impressive, but are equally used only for cooking, so they are equipped, for example, with hobs, ovens, barbecues, barbecue grills, cast iron cauldrons, etc.

   

   

   Barbecue cooker with oven

This is all that needs to be taken into account in order to correctly determine the type of suitable furnace equipment. We can move on.

Stove maker's advice. When deciding on the size of the stove structure, first of all pay attention to such points as ease of use and fire safety!

Stage 2. Building material: choice

When choosing a brick, you need to consider how resistant it will be to the influence of high temperatures, while the main emphasis should be placed on the integrity of the material after repeating the heating and cooling procedure. The characteristics of brick as a building material will determine the service life of the kiln. It is important!

Choosing a brick

Any brick is marked. One of them denotes density. For stoves, it is optimal to purchase bricks marked from 75 to 250, but it is worth remembering that the denser the product, the slower the stove will have to be melted, and the slower it will heat up. On the other hand, a well-heated stove made of dense brick will slowly cool, giving off its soft heat to the atmosphere.

If you plan to build a stove in a bathhouse, it is better to choose the least dense brick (but above M100) so that kindling does not take much time. And for appliances intended for heating residential premises and cooking, it is worth purchasing denser bricks.

It is worth knowing that the density indicator is not a sign of the quality of the brick. However, it is better to clarify the composition so as not to purchase a product with chemical impurities hazardous to health.

The next marking is the frost resistance of the product. This indicator is especially important (and should be the highest) for that part of the chimney that is located above the roof. Frost resistance itself is the property of a product to absorb moisture, which during crystallization deforms the material. The best frost resistance indicators are for hollow facing bricks, but the inside of the chimney can be laid out of solid red brick. High-quality products with a high level of frost resistance are produced in the Novgorod region, the city of Borovichi.

It is advisable to purchase red bricks made by plastic molding. These products have few pores, they withstand temperature changes well, and the masonry does not crack even after long downtime ovens. Products made of silicate, pressed, cast using the slip casting method, and unfired raw materials are not suitable for the construction of furnaces.

Fireclay bricks made according to GOST can withstand up to 1350 degrees. You can build the entire furnace from such bricks or use it only for lining the internal working surfaces of the furnace. For masonry of the firebox, you can use straw-yellow products of the Sh8 brand with dark inclusions; for the firebox vault, fireclay bricks Sh22 - Sh45 are suitable. However, this recommendation does not apply to sauna stoves, because fireclay bricks are used only at humidity levels less than 60%. It’s better to use it in a bath clinker brick or ceramic fireproof.

Prices for fireclay bricks

fireclay brick

How to check the quality of bricks:

• If you drop the product on the floor, it will break into large pieces. If the brick crumbles into crumbs, discard the batch;
• if you touch a brick, it does not generate dust;
• if a high-quality product is hit with a hammer, there will be a clear, clear, long-lasting sound;
• The edges of a good brick are smooth, the color is rich and even.

GOST 530-2012. CERAMIC BRICK AND STONE. File for download

GOST 8691-73. FIREPROOF PRODUCTS FOR GENERAL PURPOSE. SHAPE AND SIZES. File for download

Choosing a mortar

Choice mortar– an important point. If the solution is incorrect, the stove will smoke, and cracks may very soon appear on the surface of the structure.

Most often, masonry mortar is prepared from fine-grained sifted river sand (sand grains maximum 1.5 mm) and clay, which must be soaked for several hours before mixing. The soaked clay is ground through a sieve to get rid of lumps, because the masonry joint should not exceed five millimeters in thickness.

Clay mortar - preparation

The proportions for the clay solution depend on the quality of the clay - the fatter it is, the more sand, but it is important not to make the solution too thin, which will dry out and crack. It is recommended to do several test mixing of the solutions to determine the required proportions of sand and clay, and it is important to thoroughly mix the sand, adding it in several stages.

A test for fat content is done by taking half a fist of the material, moistening it and kneading it thoroughly, rolling it into a ball, and then placing and squeezing it between two smooth boards. If the ball was able to be compressed by a third of its diameter and no cracks appeared, then the solution is suitable for laying a furnace. An additional quality check is drying a ball with a diameter of 5 cm in air for 20 days. Dried ball good quality will not crumple when you press on it.

How much water to pour? We make test batches again and check the degree of fluidity of the solution. We run the trowel over the mixed solution and look at the mark:

• if it is torn, then there is not enough water;
• if you swam almost instantly, there is an excess of moisture;
• if the mark is clear and the edges are smooth, then the solution is suitable for laying a stove.

Figures 5 and 6 show a trowel that has been dipped into the solution. In the first case, it is too greasy, there are streaky streaks left on the trowel, you need to add a little sand, but in the second case (Fig. 6) the solution is good, the metal is slightly visible, and the streaks are patterned.

Note! It is advisable to use soft water to mix the masonry mixture. Too hard, that is, 8 degrees and above, will reduce the strength of the solution.

The final suitability test is carried out by spreading a 3 mm layer on the brick bed. The second brick is glued to the first, tapped with a mallet and waited for 5-10 minutes. During the specified time, both bricks should stick together. If the bricks do not spill even when shaken, the stove is guaranteed to last a hundred years.

Note! To lay the firebox, add either fireclay sand, or a mixture of equal parts of fireclay and quartz sand.

Video - Preparation of clay mortar for laying a stove

Clay mortar is not used for laying the foundation and fluffing the chimney. For these elements, a classic cement mortar or with the addition of lime paste is used (cement M500 or M600 - 1 part, lime paste - from 9 to 16 parts).

Important! If you think that you cannot cope with preparing, testing and mixing the clay solution, purchase ready-made stove mixtures, for example, Terracotta (20 kg, 306 rubles). For red brick, a mixture with red clay is suitable, and gray fireproof mixtures are ideal for both red and fireclay bricks. Do not purchase ready-made mixtures containing cement.

Prices for cement M600

cement M600

Stage 3. Selection and calculation of the quantity of bricks for masonry

At the second stage, you need to carry out the optimal calculation of the dimensions of the brick oven. Having established the final size of the stove structure, you can install the required number of bricks. The red solid single brick has a fixed size of 250 (length) x 120 (width) x 65 (thickness) mm with a deviation of +/- 2 mm.

Refractory fireclay bricks, from which the firebox of almost all furnaces are laid out, are manufactured and marked according to GOST 8691-73. Size information is given in the table.

For one square meter of half-brick masonry you will need:

• excluding mortar joint - 61 bricks;
• taking into account mortar joints - 57 pieces and 0.011 cubic meters of masonry mortar.

Accordingly, for two meters of square brickwork you will need 122 or 113 solid red bricks, and the estimated amount of mortar consumed will be 0.022 m3.

Please note that when laying in one brick, that is, if the thickness of the furnace wall is not 120, but already 250 mm, then 128 or 115 bricks will be used for each square meter, respectively, excluding and taking into account mortar joints, and the amount of masonry mixture will increase up to 0.027 m3.

How to make a simplified calculation of the approximate number of bricks for the entire kiln:

• the number of bricks in the first row is calculated;
• the resulting value is multiplied by the number of rows of the oven;
• the found number is multiplied by 0.8 (for heating devices) or 0.65 (for devices with a heating panel).

For example, let’s calculate the amount of bricks for a stove measuring 90x90 cm. There are 3.5 bricks per 900 mm. That is, in the first row there will be 24.5 pieces. Multiply by the number of rows 24.5x30, we get 735 pcs. We accept a coefficient of 0.65x735 pcs. = 477.75 pcs., round up to 480 and add 10% for rejection.

The number of bricks per pipe is calculated separately. Its height and design are adopted in accordance with SP 60.13330.2012 (“Heating, ventilation and air conditioning”) and SNiP 2.09.03-85 (“Smoke pipes”), which will be described in detail below. For a straight four-meter pipe you will need:

We count: 4x56=224 pcs. For otter, cutting and fluffing we add another 56 bricks and multiply the result by 10%. All that remains is to sum up the amount of brick for the stove with the same amount for the chimney.

You can more accurately calculate the amount of material by drawing up or using an existing order diagram, which shows the longitudinal and transverse sections of the stove, provides recommendations for laying the chimney and the dimensions of all elements, including doors.

This information can be used in practice, creating an individual plan for the consumption of brick material.

It is worth noting: if you ultimately want to get the perfect brick stove that fits perfectly into your home, be as careful as possible, starting with the selection of stove equipment and ending with its commissioning. This approach will allow you to enjoy your personal creation for a long time in the future.

Stage 4. Choosing a furnace location

So, after you have decided on the type of stove, determined the area of ​​the stove structure, and also chosen the building material and mortar, proceed to choosing a location for installing the stove.

Usually the stove is installed in one of the corners of the room or against a wall - this allows you to save precious meters of living space.

The heating stove can be located in the center of the house, while simultaneously being located in several adjacent rooms with its different sides, for example, a firebox will go into the kitchen, and three other walls will heat the rooms.

It is better to build a sauna stove near the door to the steam room. This will ensure proper temperature and humidity conditions and allow air masses to circulate effectively (provided that the exhaust and supply ventilation openings are correctly located).

However, you need to remember about the distances between the surfaces of the stove, chimney and walls, ceiling. According to SNiP 2.04.05-91, you should adhere to the following distances:

Heating stoves, smoke and ventilation ducts of residential and public buildings. Rules for production and acceptance of work

Stone and stove works. Files for downloading pdf

Stage 5. Foundation

A stove made of brick has a large specific gravity, so without a reliable foundation the structure cannot be installed.

The foundation for the furnace can be monolithic reinforced concrete, pile, columnar, lined with blocks, pile-screw.

Regardless of the type, the foundation of the stove should not be connected to the foundation of the house. The type of foundation is chosen, as for a house, based on the type of soil.

1. The gravel-sandy soil allows for the development of a shallow foundation.
2. If the soil is clayey or sedimentary, it is better to pour the foundation on a crushed stone bed, while deepening it to the freezing level.
3. In permafrost zones, a pile-screw foundation is installed, paying special attention to the thermal insulation of the piles.
4. On dry rocky soils, the foundation may have minimal thickness or none at all.
5. Bulk soil is not suitable for installing a brick kiln.

Let's consider a method for arranging solid bases for a brick kiln.

Step 1. Depending on the type of soil and the level of its freezing, we dig a pit. We take the width and shape based on the dimensions of the oven and adding 10-15 cm to its length and width, respectively. Immediately pay attention to the location of the ceiling beams - the chimney pipe will have to pass between them, taking into account the deviations regulated by SNiP. It is also recommended to carry out drainage (drainage) from the furnace foundation to reduce moisture and heaving of the soil.

Step 2. We tamp the bottom of the pit and level it horizontally as much as possible. Pour a ten-centimeter layer of small broken brick, rubble stone or crushed stone. We repeat the tamping procedure.

Step 3. We prepare liquid cement mortar (the ratio of cement and sand is 1 to 3) and fill the embankment with it.

• combine ten-centimeter layers of crushed stone backfill with cement fill. This option is acceptable for foundations of small depth, namely up to 50 cm;

  

• install reinforcement cage and fill it with concrete. The frame is knitted with reinforcement wire with a diameter of 10 mm. The cell size is 10x10 cm. Formwork is installed in the pit; the frame must be 5 cm from its walls and bottom, for which plastic clamps or pieces of brick are used. Concrete is poured inside, and the mixture is compacted during the pouring process with an internal vibrator or metal rod. Top point the fill should be 15 cm below the finished floor level;

  

  

• pour a reinforced concrete slab, on top of which lay the foundation walls of sand-lime or red brick, and fill the inside with backfilled concrete (loose aggregate should be less than or equal to the volume of concrete).

  

The first and third base options are completed with a layer of cement mortar. The filled layer is checked with a level and, if necessary, leveled with a rule or other suitable tool.

Further work is carried out after the solutions used in the process of pouring the foundation have completely dried.

Step 5. We lay the waterproofing in three layers, fixing it with mastic (for roofing felt we use tar, for roofing felt we use bitumen).

Step 6. We lay out a continuous row of bricks. We place whole bricks on the edges, halves on the inside. The brick base should be 5-7 cm wider than the existing foundation, but 5-7 cm wider than the stove itself.

We do not use cement to bind bricks together. On top of the masonry, which we also check for horizontalness, we put another layer of waterproofing, then lay out the second layer of brick, observing the dressing between the two rows. The brick base should ideally be exactly level with the finished floor or rise 3-4 cm above it.

Important note! Do not use bricks for construction that have lain outside all winter and have been repeatedly exposed to wetness and freezing. Such products can quickly deteriorate, which will greatly reduce the service life of the furnace.

We fill the space between the foundation of the stove and the house with river sand.

Stage 6. Construction of a stove-heater with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction

This project can be implemented both in a separate bathhouse and in a steam room attached to a residential building. The stove does not have a tank for heating water and a heat exchanger, but it has a hob that can easily heat water for 4-6 people. At the same time, the oven cools down very slowly, so warm water it will be even the morning after the procedures, and in the room, even in winter, the temperature will not drop below +15 degrees for more than a day. The stove will provide heating for a steam room measuring 3.3x5 meters and with a ceiling height of 2 meters to eighty degrees in about 5-6 hours.

The heater itself will be located in the steam room, and fuel will be loaded from the rest room. Bath stones, which hold approximately 40 kg (soapstone), are loaded into a special oven, where they are evenly heated, so that the steam in the bath is dry and quite thick and hot.

The height of the oven will be approximately 1.33 meters. The oven is square, side 0.89 meters. Using these data, calculate the dimensions of the foundation and lay/fill it in advance.

During the construction of the stove (the chimney is not taken into account) the following will be used:

• 269 ​​red bricks;
• 63 refractory bricks ША-8;

  

• cast iron combustion door dimensions 0.21x0.25 m;

  

  Oven door - example

• ash door 0.14x0.25 m;
• two cleaning doors 0.14x0.14 m;
• grate 0.38x0.25 m;
• two-burner cast iron hob 0.51x0.34 m;

  

• oven for laying stones with dimensions of 0.25x0.25x0.44 m;
• one valve for “summer” mode with dimensions of 0.13x0.13 m;

  

• one chimney valve, size 0.13x0.25 m;

  

• pre-furnace steel sheet measuring at least 50x70 cm.

  

• The key in brickwork is the construction joint. It should be uniform across each row, thoroughly coated. This is the only way you will achieve a monolithic stove structure and prevent smoke leakage from the fuel chamber. Carry out the process with utmost care;
• Before laying the brick, it must be well moistened. To do this, prepare a container of water and lower the bricks into the water for 5 – 10 minutes. This time is enough for the adhesion of clay and brick to be at its best in the future. high level. Once the wet brick dries, it prevents cracks from occurring in the finished stove structure. We keep the bricks in water until air bubbles stop coming out. Refractory bricks are not soaked, but only moistened with water;
• Before laying each subsequent row, use building level and a plumb line - the use of these tools in the work process is a guarantee that the structure will be free from geometric distortions and distortions.

We lay out the first row of red brick. In total you will need 24 whole bricks and one sawn in two. Lay the row very evenly, using a meter level to check the horizontality along the sides and axes of the masonry. Use a tape measure to check for squareness and alignment. We adjust the bricks with a rubber hammer. We make seams no more than five millimeters.

The second row does not differ from the first either in the quantity of bricks or in its quality. You just have to carefully observe the dressing between the two rows. It is better to start laying from the corners, gradually filling the middle.

For the third row, take twenty red bricks and the ash chamber door. We lay sixteen bricks intact, cut another four with a grinder or a hacksaw for metal with a tungsten carbide blade (see the drawing for the accuracy of cutting the elements).

Before cutting, we wet the brick and securely fix it. We follow safety precautions!!!

Cutting bricks with a grinder - photo

Video - How to cut brick

Video - Cutting stove bricks with a grinder

We don’t rush to apply the solution, first lay out the entire row dry! Bricks must not be laid with the hewn (cut) side inside the firebox or chimney. It is also strictly forbidden to lubricate with clay internal surfaces channels and fireboxes.

If the brick is laid unsuccessfully, remove it, clean it of the mortar, soak it again, apply a new mortar with a trowel, and then make the adjustment again.

In the same row we fix the door; to do this, we wrap the door frame around the perimeter with asbestos cord, cover it with a solution, insert and twist steel knitting wire (diameter 3-4 mm, length 1-1.2 m, number of twisting rods from 3 to 4 ) into the holes in the corners of the frame, and pass the resulting wire twists between the rows of bricks.

Fastening the door with wire - the upper ends of the wire are laid between the bricks

Installing a stove door - photo

Video - How to attach a wire to a door

Video - How to attach the oven door to the blower

The clay mortar and the weight of the bricks will securely hold the door frame.

Another way to install the door is by using metal strips or plates that are flared at the ends. The elements are attached to the door frame by riveting, after which they are fixed in masonry joints. If the plates are too thick, it is better to cut grooves into the bricks.

The accuracy of the door installation is checked with a plumb line and level.

Advice. To make the cleaning door fit more neatly and accurately, remove a rectangular chamfer from the bricks that will be located around the perimeter of the door frame. That is, the hole for installing the door should be 5 mm longer and wider than the frame.

Don't worry if you only get three rows done in a day. Soaking, trimming, fitting and laying require time, patience and precision.

In the fourth row, we continue to form the ash chamber, additionally laying out the lower horizontal channel. The entire row will require 16 bricks. For the channel, we immediately install a door 0.14x0.14 m. The door can be fixed without asbestos, simply on the solution, since in this place the temperature will be low and the thermal expansion of the metal will be minimal.

For the fifth row we take 16 and a half red bricks. We cut four of them obliquely to make the door overlap using the “lock” method. We lay the bricks with the hewn side up. We cut two more bricks obliquely, forming an overlap.

Row 6

In the sixth row, fireclay bricks will be used in the amount of six and a half pieces and red brick - 12 pieces. It is shown in yellow in the diagram. We lay out the base of the fuel chamber from fireclay. We make slots for laying the grate. The hole for the grating should be 5-7 mm larger so that the expanding metal does not destroy the masonry. We fill the space between the grate and the bricks (chamfers) with sand.

Experienced stove makers advise laying the grate with a slight slope, up to three centimeters, towards the stove door.

Use one brick to block the cleaning door.

In this row of 9 red and 5 fireclay bricks we form a fuel chamber. We cut the brick that is placed at the back of the firebox obliquely at an angle of 45 degrees.

We install the door using asbestos cord. Door size 21x25 cm.

We also place a welded oven made of 8 mm thick steel. The back of the cabinet will be located in the fuel chamber. The door of the cabinet is slightly smaller than its height, that is, it is raised, due to which the bath stones will not fall out on the floor.

We carry out the laying according to the order schemes. For work, we take seven red and fireclay bricks.

For the ninth row you will need 6.5 red and 7 fireclay bricks. We build the walls of the firebox.

In this row, using the “lock” method already discussed above, we close the fire door. The entire row will require 7 red, 8 fireclay bricks and another 1 wedged fireclay.

We take 10 and a half fireclay and 6 and a half red bricks. Close the door and back of the oven. We lay the bricks, connecting the firebox with the nearest vertical channel. Another channel is formed above the cabinet - we install a door there.

We take 12 red and 9 fireclay bricks. We trim as shown in the diagram, and also make a recess for the hob, taking into account the required five-millimeter gaps. We lay a 51x34 cm hob; we do not use any mortar.

We install the valve in the nearest vertical channel. To install the metal element, we make slits in the brick, as shown in the diagrams. The far vertical channel, starting from this row, bifurcates.

Gate valve in the furnace - photo

For work we take 9 fireclay and 6 and a half red bricks.

We begin to form a decorative niche, for which we use 15.5 red bricks. We no longer use fireclay.

We combine the near channel and the central one. We use 13.5 bricks.

We continue laying in order. We take 14 and a half bricks.

We block the far channel and the central one. We cut two bricks above the niche obliquely to make a locking ceiling. We also cut the brick obliquely above the hob. We lay the wedge brick in the lock. Consumption per row – 18 pcs.

We close the oven completely, with the exception of the near channel. We make cutouts in this channel to install a 13x25 cm valve. Above the slab we cut another brick obliquely. Consumption – 16 pcs.

We use 17 and a half bricks to re-cover, leaving only a smoke channel measuring 13x13 cm.

We use four bricks to form the base of the chimney pipe.

With the ligation we place the second row of pipe.

Video - Description of furnace construction

The internal surfaces of the furnace must be as smooth as possible so that soot does not accumulate on them, therefore, during the laying process, the protruding clay must be cleaned or scraped off.

How to dry the oven? We leave the unit with the valves and doors open for about a week. Without closing the doors, we put just a little fuel into the firebox to warm up the walls a little. The next day we repeat the operation, increasing the amount of fuel. At the same time, we do not close the doors. When there are no wet marks left on the walls and no condensation on the valve, the stove is ready for the first real fire.

Video - Do-it-yourself stove for the bathhouse

Video - Drying the oven

After drying, the stove can be heated and the draft in it checked by opening the valves, then holding a burning match to the open door of the firebox. If the flame deviates into the oven, it means there is draft.

The draft depends on the chimney, which in turn must be at least five meters long, if you count from the grate. More accurately, the height of the chimney above the roof can be determined from the picture. But remember that damp pipes will have slightly weaker draft.

It is recommended to whitewash a brick pipe in two layers with chalk or lime so that furnace gas leaks become immediately noticeable. The faulty pipe is immediately repaired. Above the roof, the chimney pipe must be plastered, and for masonry a cement, cement-lime or simply lime mortar is used, and the best quality brick is selected, without chips, cracks, or other defects.

Don’t forget to clean the stove - in the spring if you plan to heat the sauna in the summer and twice a year if you use it constantly. If cracks appear, immediately seal them with clay mortar, applying and leveling it with a trowel.

Video - How to fold a stove with your own hands

Video - Laying the first row of bricks

The comfort of a country house built far from gas supply networks is unthinkable without a stove. In the cold season, it gives us pleasant warmth, relieving the air of dampness.

The market today offers customers all kinds of designs of metal “stove stoves”. Despite this, many summer residents prefer classic version– a heating stove made of brick. Its advantages are obvious: due to its large weight, it accumulates a lot of heat and releases it for a long time, warming the room well.

The service life of a brick structure significantly exceeds that of a metal one. Minimal costs for materials and simplicity of arrangement attract the attention of home craftsmen to a simple stove for a summer residence.

Our article will help you test yourself as a stove maker. In it we will look at several options for simple wood stoves and we'll give practical recommendations according to their masonry.

You will be convinced that there is nothing complicated in the drawings of these structures. Having learned to read “orders” - brick layout diagrams, you can build a full-fledged heat-generating device with your own hands.

How to build the simplest brick oven?

First you need to decide what you want to get from your future stove. If you only need to heat the rooms, and use bottled gas or electricity to cook food, then choose an option without a stove and oven. Anyone who loves soft healing warmth chooses the option with a bed.

For regular cooking of large quantities of food and pet food, a simple oven with a hob will be just right.

We will look at three examples of ovens with step by step guide according to their masonry:

• Simple direct flow;
• With hob;
• Heating.

Let’s say right away that you cannot expect high heat transfer from a simple design devoid of gas circulation. For this reason, such stoves are installed in garages and other small rooms with an area of ​​no more than 16 m2.

We will consider this option so that beginners get their first simple lesson in practical masonry.

Direct flow heating design designed to heat a small room

Such a stove does not require a strong foundation. Having poured large crushed stone in a layer of 15-20 cm, poured it cement mortar and having leveled the surface, after a couple of days you can begin laying.

Stove dimensions in plan: width 2 bricks (51 cm), depth 2.5 bricks (64 cm). Since there is no blower chamber in it, holes for air intake are drilled directly in the combustion door.

The sixth row covers the combustion chamber door. The top view helps to better understand the brick laying method.

The procedures for this design are simple. The main condition during work is to ensure that the seams are bandaged so that the top brick covers the seam between the two lower ones.

On the eighth row, the firebox is narrowed, using halves and “three-quarters” - ¾ of a whole brick. The exit from the firebox is thus obtained with a cross-section of 1 brick (125x250 mm).

The next row (ninth) is laid out in the same way as the seventh, using a whole brick.

After this, the brick tier is placed on the edge flush with the inner edge of the bottom row. The new tier is laid flat, using two whole bricks and four “three-quarter” bricks. In this way, the smoke channel is again narrowed in order to trap gases and increase heat transfer.

On the next tier, the stones are placed on edge. A brick is placed in the middle of the smoke channel. In this way, the oven is raised another five rows (one tier on an edge and a brick in the middle, the other tier flat).

The remaining four tiers are laid flat. With the last two rows of masonry, the smoke channel is narrowed to a size of 12x12 cm (half a brick). At this level, a smoke damper is placed in the furnace. A steel pipe is inserted into it from above.

Oven with hob

In the simplest version, this design has small dimensions (width 2 and depth 3 bricks - 78x53 cm). However, even in such a limited area it is possible to place a single-burner stove.

Work goes smoothly when you have everything you need at hand.

Therefore, purchase the following materials and accessories in advance:

• Solid red brick – 107 pcs;
• Blower door – 1 piece;
• Grate – 1 piece;
• Single-burner cast iron stove – 1 piece;
• Fire door – 1 piece;
• Pipe valve – 1 pc.

Fire bricks are not needed for a wood burning stove. Buying it is a waste of money. But red should be chosen carefully, discarding cracked and uneven ones.

Preparation of the solution

The masonry mixture is made by mixing four parts clay with one part water and adding eight parts sifted sand. The normal consistency is determined simply: the solution easily slides off the trowel, leaving no drips on it. When laying, it should not leak out of the seams.

The volume of the mortar is determined based on the amount of brick. With an optimal seam thickness (3-5 mm), one bucket is enough for 50 pieces.

Having prepared the masonry mixture, you can begin laying the foundation. Its width is made 10 cm larger than the width of the oven. The height of the foundation is selected so that the bottom of the first row of bricks is at floor level.

An approximate prototype of a stove

If the underground is deep enough (50-60 cm), then there is no need to dig a hole for the foundation. It is enough to make formwork on the ground with a plan size of 76 x (51 + 10 cm). Two layers of roofing felt are placed on its bottom to protect it from moisture. Having laid the concrete, it is given a week to gain strength, after which they begin laying.

The dimensions of the stove with hob we are considering are 3 x 1.5 bricks (76x39 cm).

Expert advice: lay out each new tier of brick without mortar (dry). After adjusting the bricks to size, you can begin laying.

The first row is placed on a layer of clay mortar (4-5 mm). Having leveled the base, lay out the second one, leaving space for the blower door.

Before installing the door, you need to screw a soft wire to it and put its ends into the seams for better fixation.

The frame of the cast iron door has four holes for wire, which is used for fixing in the masonry

To compensate for the thermal expansion of the metal, a gap is left between the door and the brick. Before installation, its frame is wrapped with wet asbestos cord.

The third row is laid by overlapping the seams of the second. At this level, a grate is installed in the firebox.

Order scheme from 1st to 8th row

The fourth row is placed on the edge, observing the ligation of the seams, and the walls of the combustion chamber are formed. Behind it will be the first and only smoke circulation (see section A-A in diagram No. 2). To clean its bottom, a so-called knockout brick is placed in the rear wall without mortar, which is periodically removed to remove ash. Inside the chimney, two stands are made from pieces of brick to support the internal partition.

The stones of the fifth row are placed flat, leaving space for the firebox door. At the back of the stove, in order, we see the walls of two smoke channels. During work, their surface must be thoroughly cleaned with a wet cloth to remove any clay protruding from the seams. This is an important condition for ensuring good traction.

Helpful advice! When focusing on the order drawings, do not forget to look at the two sections of the stove. They will help you better imagine its design and not make mistakes when laying out the bricks.

Order scheme from 9th to 11th row

Having raised the masonry up to the eighth row, they close the furnace door, placing wire in the seams to secure its frame. At the same level, in the back of the fuel chamber, a brick with a beveled end is placed - a smoke tooth. It improves thermal efficiency by preventing rapid exhaustion flue gases into the pipe.

Having completed the ninth row, an asbestos cord is laid along it on a clay mortar. It is necessary for sealing the joints of a cast iron slab and brick. On the tenth row, the firebox is covered with a hob.

On the eleventh, a smoke valve is installed in the pipe. It is also compacted along the contour with an asbestos cord soaked in clay.

Rows 12 and 13 - formation of the pipe walls. After they are completed, a lightweight sheet metal pipe is placed on the stove, leading to the roof.

Heating stove

Now let’s see how to build a brick stove with your own hands, designed to heat a small country house.

Approximate prototypes of the considered heating stove option for a country house

Its dimensions:

• width – 2 bricks (51 cm);
• depth - 3.5 bricks (90 cm);
• height – 2 meters 38 cm.

For construction you will need the following materials and accessories:

• Red solid brick – 390 pcs;
• Clay - 9 buckets;
• Sand - 18 buckets;
• Grate (25x40 cm) – 1 piece;
• Fire door (20x30 cm) – 1 piece;
• Blower door (14x20 cm) – 1 piece;
• Cleaning door (14x20 cm) – 1 piece;
• Gate valve - 1 piece;
• Pre-furnace steel sheet(50x70 cm) – 1 piece;
• Roofing felt for waterproofing (100x60 cm) – 1 pc.

Sequence of work

The first row is the base of the oven. It should be laid out especially carefully, checking the horizontality using a level.

The corners are the hardest part for beginners. To ensure that they are even, we recommend immediately installing four template posts on the edges of the masonry. They can be made from planed boards, knocking them down in pairs at right angles.

By installing such “formwork” from floor to ceiling, you can easily create ideal angles.

Homemade template for laying corners

On the second row, two bricks with a beveled edge facing into the ash chamber are laid at the end of the furnace. The laying of the third row begins with the installation of a blower door, fixed with wire in the seams of the side bricks.

Order diagram from 1 to 10 and cross sections of the heating furnace

Rows 4 and 5 continue to form the walls of the ash chamber. In the sixth row, they begin laying the walls of the fuel chamber and install a grate in it.

At the level of the 7th and 8th rows, a combustion door is installed. At the back of the chamber, beveled bricks are placed to improve traction. The ninth row covers the firebox door.

From rows 10 to 16, the fuel chamber and vertical smoke exhaust duct are being laid. On the seventeenth, a cleaning door is installed in the oven.

Rows 18-30 form smoke circulation channels. They need to be laid out as evenly as possible, rubbing the inner walls with a wet cloth.

Rows 31-32 form a vault covering the oven.

33 and 34 form the chimney.

Having finished laying, the stove is left for a week with the doors and pipe open to dry. After this, a test fire is made, burning small portions of wood chips, branches or straw.