It is not recommended to use non-natural materials for the interior decoration of a bathhouse. High temperatures and constant humidity force the use of only stress-resistant types of cladding for finishing. One of the classic ones is lining. You can find out how to line a bathhouse with clapboard inside by reading the article to the end. We will help the reader with the difficult task of interior finishing, but we will also tell you how to choose the material.

Steam room trimmed with linden clapboard, coated with heat-resistant oil

Linden lining should lie unpacked before finishing

Lining for the interior decoration of a bathhouse is selected depending on the purpose of a particular room, the degree of humidity in it, the temperatures used, etc. All material is divided according to several criteria: size, what it is made from, type of wood.

You can divide the material by size :

1. Classical. It is not wide in size; it is better to mount it vertically, since the horizontal position visually lowers the already low ceiling in the bathhouse. In addition, the horizontal fastening prevents water from flowing down freely, and it accumulates in the connecting locks.
2. Eurolining. These are wider and heavier panels, more interesting in the design of the room and have the same quality characteristics as thin lining. On the back side of the eurolining there is a special cut that relieves stress in the product and over time the finish will not crack.

Based on their composition, the material is divided into: vinyl, plastic, wood and metal. For the bath the best option made of wood, the rest for finishing the facade.

Types of wood for making bath trim

The steam room finished with aspen paneling looks attractive

It is important what type of wood the product is made from. For the bathhouse, wood trim with the lowest thermal conductivity is used: linden, aspen, abashi, cedar, alder. Moreover, you can take not any cedar, but only the northern one. It contains less resin and when heated, the walls and ceiling will not begin to cry. Larch species have a lower wood density and with tactile contact in the bathhouse, the lining will be more pleasant, even at high temperatures in the steam room. Such lining costs more, but the costs will be justified. Each of the considered types is better suited for various rooms baths

Aspen: has a beautiful reddish tint and increased moisture resistance. In terms of its durability, aspen can only be compared with larch. When in contact with water, aspen wood does not collapse, but rather hardens. It is better to use for finishing a rest room, washing department. The only negative is the high price, due to which it is not recommended for use in the steam room and dressing room.

Original version steam rooms trimmed with linden clapboard

Linden: Lining has become traditional for finishing the inside of a bathhouse. The linden does not heat up when high temperatures oh and has a nice whitish color. But linden has a serious drawback - if it is not treated with antiseptics and protective compounds, it quickly begins to darken and rot.

Cedar lining in combination with linden looks great

Cedar: This is a coniferous tree, but its structure is of low density, so it is often used for baths. Cedar has excellent antiseptic properties and, when heated, releases nice smell. But it is not recommended to use it in a steam room, since it still contains some percentage of resin.

Alder lining in the interior of the bathhouse looks original and modern

Alder: has a pleasant pinkish tint with a pleasant velvety texture. Holds temperature well and is not afraid of moisture. In baths can be used in any part.

When choosing lining for finishing a bath, it is better to take chamber drying Extra or AB grade. Since changes in temperature and humidity in the bath occur constantly, it is impossible to use material with inaccurate or curved shapes. But in the highest grades this is unacceptable.

Step-by-step description of the installation of lining inside baths

Aspen paneling is sewn onto the ceiling

Before finishing, you need to decide whether only the walls or the ceiling will be coated. To do this, you can look at the photo finished works and choose the design you like.

You need to sheathe the inside of the bathhouse starting from the ceiling. Only after this the walls. But first the walls need to be waterproofed and insulated.

Insulation of bath walls and ceilings

Scheme simple option sauna steam room clapboard cladding

It is not necessary to insulate all the walls of the bathhouse, especially if it is a small summer log house measuring 3x3 m. In these, only the steam room is insulated. In other cases, the entire Russian bathhouse is from the inside, including the dressing room and rest room.

As insulation you need to choose fire resistant material, for example bosalt wool. It’s better not to even consider all materials like polystyrene foam. The insulation is attached to a pre-prepared sheathing on which the vapor barrier is attached. Due to the large temperature difference, condensation may accumulate on the walls; a vapor barrier will protect the insulation.

Glassine should be secured on top of this structure. It will play the role of waterproofing. All seams are glued with a special water-repellent glue. Then everything is covered with foil, it will reflect heat and prevent steam from escaping. You need to fasten the foil between the sheathing using construction stapler or buttons overlap by 10-15 cm.

Material processing

The walls of the bathhouse begin to be sheathed from the opposite corner from the entrance

Before fastening, the lining must be unpacked and kept in a bath for 1-2 days. The fact is that manufacturers, in order to protect the material after chamber drying, pack it in an airtight film. And once in the natural environment, wood absorbs moisture from the air and swells a little.

After this, you need to choose how to process the material. It is better to take a composition intended directly for baths. These contain antipyrines and moisture-resistant components.

Mounting on bath walls and ceilings

They begin to fasten the lining with ceiling decoration. The first strip should be mounted opposite the door. There are two ways to attach links to the bathhouse:

1. Use small nails to the main sheathing in a groove at an angle of 45 0. Such fastening will be invisible and the ceiling will look like a single system. You shouldn’t hammer the lining tightly together; when it’s wet, it will swell and the entire structure will warp, or it will simply pull away from the wall in separate sections. By leaving a gap, the lining gains space for natural movement.
2. Use small nails through the lining to the sheathing. This method is more suitable for eurolining. First, small recesses are drilled in each attached link, and then a nail is driven into them. These places are covered with wood plugs and PVA glue.

Since the lining is thin, it is inconvenient to hammer in the entire nail with a hammer. To simplify, use a tool - a puncher

You need to start attaching the links to the wall from the most visible corner to the door. They install it using exactly the same methods as on the ceiling.

There should be a ventilated gap of 4-5 cm between the lining and the walls. A gap of 3-4 cm should also be left between the walls and the ceiling. In order for air to pass well under the lining, tonic strips are attached to the main sheathing. This second sheathing will be attached to finishing material. The pitch of the sheathing is 40-50 cm. The direction is perpendicular to the fastening of the sheathing.

After fixing the bath, warm it up thoroughly and see what happens after it cools down. Incorrectly fastened links are additionally reinforced with nails.

Subtleties of finishing inside the bath

1. Do not mount the lining horizontally in the washing room and steam room. Splashes of water will enter the lock, and the lining will quickly darken. But if the design requires horizontal fastening, then the tenon should point upward.
2. All fasteners must be taken with a zinc coating, since iron will quickly rust if exposed to moisture.
3. All fastening corners and strips at the top need to be slightly sharpened at the bottom, so the water droplets will go down faster.
4. The planks are attached 4-5 cm from the base, so as not to block the ventilated gap.
5. Consider a ventilation system in the bathhouse, so the moisture will evaporate faster and the lining will last longer.
6. If the lining turns black, it must be immediately treated with bleaching compounds, for example, Senezh Sauna

We looked at how to do the interior decoration of a bathhouse with clapboards with your own hands. By following all the techniques and watching the thematic video in this article, even a beginner will be able to do the job with his own hands.

To complete the interior decoration of a bathhouse, you need knowledge of the properties of wood and stone, safety requirements and minimal skills in working with wood. We will talk about the materials and types of finishes recommended for use in the bathhouse, and you will have to acquire the skills of a joiner and carpenter along the way.

Does the bathhouse need finishing?

Regardless of what kind of bath you have - Russian, Finnish sauna or Turkish hammam, a bath means high temperature and high humidity. Without completing the finishing, without insulating the walls, floor and roof, you will be forced to heat the steam room for hours, and with it the surrounding air, literally throwing money away.

Due to the difference in external and internal temperatures, moisture will settle on the walls as condensation, which over time will lead to the formation of fungus, mold and rot. wooden structures. If the building is made of masonry material (brick or blocks), a steam room without finishing can cause burns if it comes into contact with a hot wall. Only in the case when the bathhouse is cut down from logs or built from timber, can it be left without additional finishing if the thickness of the walls provides the required resistance to heat transfer. If this is not the case, go back to reading the first sentence of the paragraph.

If the bathhouse is made of logs, complete interior finishing may not be carried out

There are many safety requirements for finishing a bath:

The walls and floor of the bathhouse are most often insulated with stone or basalt wool, but this is not the best option: mats and slabs mineral insulation contain a small amount of bitumen binder, which evaporates under high temperature, as well as tiny particles of fibers that cause irritation when deposited on the skin.

More secure and economical option- foam glass insulation - allows you to avoid these disadvantages. Vapor barrier is performed with aluminum foil or foil-coated polyurethane foam, which belongs to the group of non-combustible materials and will serve as an additional heat insulator.

Finishing materials for a bath - how not to make a mistake

Interior decoration different rooms performs different tasks in the bathhouse, and in accordance with them the type of finishing is chosen.

Table: requirements for finishing a bath

Room	Peculiarities	Type of finish
		Floor	Walls	Ceiling
Steam room	High temperature - fire protection of wood is required. Humidity - impregnation with antiseptic and fungicide is required	Ceramic tiles or porcelain tiles with waterproofing, wood flooring hardwood, drainage	Hardwood cladding, stone or brick cladding at the heater	False ceiling made of hardwood
Washing	Humidity - materials are needed that allow surfaces to be washed periodically	Ceramic tiles or porcelain tiles with non-slip surface, drainage	Tiling or finishing with materials that allow wet cleaning	moisture-resistant painting or suspended ceiling
Restroom	No requirements	Wood or heated floors with tiles	No requirements	No requirements

Steam room finishing

To cover the steam room, it is better to use hardwood, which does not release resin when heated. When choosing a material for wall cladding, you must remember that a bathhouse is not only pleasant, but also useful. By inhaling the phytoncides released by heated wood in the steam room, we increase the body’s resistance to colds and heal the respiratory tract.

Type of wood	Advantages	Flaws
Oak	Strong wood, durable, great appearance	Slips when wet, high price
Ash	Durable wood with a beautiful pattern, resistant to rotting	High price
Birch	Easy pleasant aroma	Prone to rotting, does not hold its shape well at high temperatures
Linden	It has a pleasant color, when heated, it emits a delicate aroma, is resistant to rot and high temperatures, and is affordable	No
Aspen	Low price, light pleasant aroma	Subject to rotting, over time changes color to dirty gray
Alder	Beautiful appearance, affordable price, odorless, does not absorb odors, durable	No

If you are interested a budget option finishing - choose alder, if there are no cost restrictions, then the best option is ash.

A bathhouse trimmed with ash clapboard will look prestigious and expensive

For lovers of coniferous scents, a combined finishing option may be offered: where contact with the skin is possible, we make the finishing from deciduous wood, and, for example, we line the space under the shelves with cedar, larch or pine.

To cover a section of the wall near the heater, you must choose a material with high heat capacity and thermal conductivity, ensuring maximum accumulation and uniform heat transfer. The structure of the stone must be uniform so that it does not explode when water gets in. The stones are selected round or oval in shape with a smooth surface for free air circulation, optimal size- from 5 to 21 cm. Another requirement is environmental safety: when heated, they should not emit harmful substances.

Table: properties of bath stones

Mineral	Properties
Gabbro - diabase	Gabbro - diabase is the most affordable and popular option. The stone is dark gray, almost black in color, with low water absorption, excellent heat capacity and very durable. Unfortunately, when heated strongly, it emits an unpleasant odor, and when essential oil gets in, it forms carbon deposits on the surface.
Soapstone chlorite	Soapstone is durable, strong, has excellent heat capacity, and comes in colors from light gray to cherry. In order to prevent dusting, the stones are washed and calcined before the first use. It features a pleasant, light steam with a healing effect: reduces blood pressure, improves health respiratory system and skin. Negative characteristic - high price.
Basalt	Basalt is the most durable stone of all volcanic rocks. He only has positive characteristics- strong, durable, has a high heat capacity, tolerates temperature changes well, and does not emit harmful substances. Even the price is pleasing with its availability.
Jade	Jadeite belongs to semiprecious stones, so you shouldn’t be surprised at the high price of this mineral. The color ranges from white through emerald green to black making it attractive in appearance and its medicinal properties rated at ancient China. Great choice for people who care about their health.
Raspberry quartzite	Crimson quartzite, like jadeite, is attractive in appearance with its bright color and has excellent performance qualities - hardness, durability, heat resistance, low water absorption and environmental safety. It tolerates high temperatures well, you can pour water on it without fear of “explosion”. When purchasing, you should avoid split stones, as they will continue to crumble in the future.
White quartz	White quartz is not very durable and does not tolerate high temperatures well, but due to its spectacular appearance is one of the most expensive stones: this translucent mineral consists of silicon and oxygen molecules, and when heated, it releases ozone, which makes steaming with it especially useful.

The ceiling in the steam room above the heater, just like the wall behind it and the floor around it, requires protection with fireproof material. Above the heater, you can make a section of suspended ceiling from a soapstone slab. Soapstone is a universal material for heater stones, cladding walls, floors and ceilings. More budget option - a metal sheet above the stove, the foundation and wall cladding are made of solid, well-fired brick.

Soapstone can be used not only as a material for stones, but also as a decoration for walls and ceilings behind the heater

The floor in the steam room is made of concrete or ceramic tiles, with waterproofing and a drain for draining water. Walking flooring made of hardwood is laid on top.

Finishing materials for washing

A sink with open shower screens requires the installation of channels, drains and moisture-resistant finishing: facing with ceramic tiles or other durable and moisture-resistant material that can withstand elevated temperatures.

If you plan to install individual shower cabins, such finishing is not required; you can line the walls with clapboard, paint them or plaster them with moisture-resistant decorative plaster.

To prevent water from affecting the sink frame, it is finished with tiles.

It is advisable to have heated floors. The tile must have a rough surface that prevents slipping. It is undesirable to make oak flooring in wet rooms, as it is very slippery when wet. Covering from coniferous species wood, especially larch, as the most resistant to rotting.

The area of ​​the floor near the font, where significant spills of water are possible, is best made of ceramic tiles with a drain.

The ceiling of the washing room will have to be washed periodically; accordingly, the material must withstand processing detergents: larch lining, metal slatted or cassette suspended ceilings.

Restroom

The rest room has no restrictions on decoration, with the exception of warm flooring - it is always pleasant to walk on warm wood with bare feet. The rest of the interior design depends on the taste and requirements of the bathhouse owner.

Photo gallery: options for finishing bathhouse premises

In this steam room, the firewood rack serves as an interesting element of the interior. Soft diffused light and heat from a brick Russian stove will create an unforgettable experience of visiting the bathhouse Protective lampshades made of slats protect lamps from mechanical influences and create directed streams of light Taking bath procedures in a small steam room is very comfortable The interior of the steam room is very decorated with the combined layout of wood lining different types A steam room for a large company should be heated with a high-power heater

Do-it-yourself bathhouse finishing

In order to make the bathhouse beautiful, you need to choose reliable and high-quality finishing materials and install them in accordance with the specifics of the premises described in the previous sections.

Selection of finishing materials

The optimal choice for each bathhouse owner will be one that takes into account the size of the building, personal taste and financial component. In order not to make a mistake when purchasing material, you must first:

Calculation of premises area

To determine the need for materials, it is necessary to know the area of ​​the surface to be finished. All calculations are done in meters.

For the floor and ceiling, multiply the length of the room by its width. To get the area of ​​the walls, calculate the perimeter of the room: add the length and width and multiply by two. We multiply the product by the height of the ceilings. From the result obtained, subtract the area of ​​doors and windows, if any.

In rooms with difficult combined finishing The area of ​​each plot is calculated separately.

How to buy quality materials and prepare them for installation

When choosing a material, you need to pay attention first of all to the quality of the product.

Calculation of material requirements

1. Find the area of ​​one board. So, with a standard length of 6 m and a thickness of 90 mm, the area of ​​the board will be equal to 6∙0.09=0.54 m2.
2. Calculate the surface area to be finished. Let's assume that it is necessary to upholster the walls of a room measuring 3 x 6 m with a ceiling height of 2.5 m. The surface area is equal to: (3+6)∙2∙2.5=45 m2.
3. Calculate the number of boards. To do this, divide the surface area by the area of ​​one board: 45/0.54 = 83.3 boards.

As an example, here is a specification of material for finishing a steam room:

In the same way, the wood requirements for the remaining rooms are calculated.

For calculation paint and varnish materials the surface area should be multiplied by the paint consumption, which is usually given on the packaging in liters per square meter. The product will show how many liters of paint you need to buy.

All goods must be purchased with a margin of 10%, taking into account the allowance for waste and defects in work.

Required Tools

To finish a bathhouse with your own hands you will need:

1. Hammer.
2. Screwdriver.
3. Building level.
4. Hammer.
5. Furniture stapler.
6. Plane.
7. Hacksaw or jigsaw.
8. Self-tapping screws, nails or clamps.

Step-by-step instructions for finishing a bath

The work is carried out after laying the electrical wiring and ventilation ducts, starting from the floor. The floor of the steam room is raised 10–15 cm above the level of adjacent rooms. After the clean floor has been laid, they begin finishing the walls. The last thing to do is the ceiling.

1. Making a frame for insulation. The frame is assembled from 100x40 mm timber, impregnated with fire retardant and fungicide. The timber is attached with self-tapping screws or dowels to the wall at intervals equal to the width of the insulation board minus 5 mm.

   A frame made of wooden beams is mounted on the walls and ceiling

2. Installation of insulation. Between the frame beams, insulation slabs or mats are laid on heat-resistant glue with additional fastening dowels 5–6 pcs. per 1 m 2.
3. Installation of heat-reflecting material. Aluminum foil or foil fire-resistant film, for example, foil penofol, is secured with staples using a construction stapler to the thermal insulation layer.

   A counter-lattice is installed over the heat-reflecting layer under the finishing coating.

Wall cladding. The lining is attached to the frame in accordance with the selected layout. The nails are driven into the grooves so that they are not visible on the finish. They nail the baseboard.

To decorate the premises in the bathhouse, you can choose different varieties wood with different shades of color

Frame installation false ceiling. The frame of the false ceiling is attached to the floor joists or to the walls made of 100x50 timber with a vertical orientation. The distance between the beams should correspond to the width of the insulation slab minus 5 mm for the expansion.

Construction of the ceiling begins after covering the walls.

Installation of heat-reflecting material. Foil or foil material is attached in the same way as on the walls.

Ceiling lining with clapboard. It is carried out similarly to wall upholstery. The section of the ceiling above the stove-heater is protected by non-combustible material: a stainless steel sheet or slab material. Attached ceiling plinth.

A foil vapor barrier is attached to the insulation, and then the clapboard is nailed onto the finished sheathing

Video: interior decoration of the steam room

Having become acquainted with the requirements for bathhouse premises and having studied information about correct execution finishing, you have received the necessary theoretical knowledge. The work does not require any special professional skills and can be done by any homeowner.

The choice of facing materials is significant. But if we are talking about such a specific “object” as a bathhouse, then upon closer examination there are not so many options. And this mainly applies only to the types of panels, since both experts and land owners agree that The best decision for finishing - wooden lining. Let's consider all the nuances of finishing the inside of a bathhouse with clapboard.

The concept of do-it-yourself always means a simple tool ( household level), readily available technology and inexpensive materials. This is where the author proceeds. Let's start with the preparation stage for finishing the bath.

Type

In terms of ease of installation, it is advisable to focus on Euro class lining. It differs from traditional designs in the groove parameters. What is the advantage of finishing a bathhouse with this board?

• The so-called “comb” is longer, therefore, even with temperature deformation (and it is inevitable, especially in a steam room), there will definitely be no gaps between the panels.
• The presence of special (compensation) channels on the wrong side of the lining contributes to natural ventilation(increases its efficiency) under the finish, initiates the removal of condensate and prevents cracking of the boards due to some deformation during temperature changes.
• Another advantage noted by users is that Euro lining from a well-known manufacturer is necessarily impregnated at the manufacturing stage. From the author’s point of view, this will have to be done one way or another. But in relation to the Euroboard, you can do everything necessary using a simplified method. This means saving some money on medications and time additional processing you will need much less.

Variety

According to this criterion, excessive savings are not advisable - only “Premium”, “Extra”, “Prima” (highest) or A (first). And that's why. In lower grades, defects such as cracks, knots and a number of others are allowed. The difference is in their parameters and quantity per unit area. But, under conditions that are typical for any bathhouse (changes in humidity and temperature, their high values, especially in a steam room), the same knots can simply fall out over time, and cracks can “spread.” And then you will have to do repairs, which means spending money.

Breed

A bathhouse is several rooms. Coniferous lining is not suitable for a steam room - when the wood is heated, it releases resin. Therefore, only boards from deciduous trees. For other rooms - at the discretion of the owner. Professionals recommend focusing on the following breeds for a steam room:

• Linden. Perhaps the most used lining in baths. Its main advantages are the strength of the material combined with ease of cutting and processing, beautiful structure, noble shade. It is generally accepted that linden gives off positive energy to the outside, so it is the best choice for a bath.

• aspen. This lining is somewhat “softer”, since the wood is less dense. The advantages of this wood are that it is easy to care for, over time the board gains strength, and the lining made from it looks very attractive. For those who are interested in bioenergy issues, we can add that it literally pulls out all the “negativity” from us.

• alder. The price for such lining is higher than for aspen and linden, but it is worth it. The main advantage is the tannins contained in wood. It is well processed and practically does not conduct heat. For a steam room, the quality of the board is very important.

It makes no sense to consider such species as abashi, ash, oak, hemlock and a number of others - lining made from this wood is quite expensive. But if financial opportunities allow, you should pay attention.

For all other rooms it is better to purchase coniferous lining. In principle, there is no need to process it, since by definition it is protected from rotting by the resin contained in the structure. Is it purely symbolic, for “prevention” (implies de-resining the wood). If you add the pleasant aroma emitted coniferous tree, variety of shades, beautiful structure and ease of cutting, then such lining for all rooms of the bathhouse, with the exception of the steam room, is an excellent choice.

Lining quantity calculator

Drawing up a finishing scheme

This must be done for two reasons:

• The drawn up drawing will help determine the required volume of lumber purchases. The lining is mainly sold in samples 3 m long. Naturally, during the installation process the panels will have to be sawn, adjusted, and somehow combined individual fragments. If you buy wood “by eye,” the costs will be higher and there will be a surplus. A thrifty owner does not act this way.
• It is the diagram that will help you understand how best to arrange the lining in the bathhouse (over the entire area or in a separate room). There are several options, although two are considered the main ones. And on the question of which one is preferable, even experts do not have a consensus. Consequently, you will have to decide on your own, taking into account the dimensions of the room, its configuration and “filling” (furniture, household appliances, and so on).

Vertical fastening of boards

Proponents of this scheme highlight the following advantages:

• Installation finishing board Produced quickly due to the simplicity of the technology.
• Splashes of water and condensation do not flow into the cracks, but move down.
• With this method of installing the lining, the most efficient circulation is achieved air flow(due to channels on the wrong side), which rush from bottom to top.
• When applied to a steam room, this finishing allows for maximum heat accumulation in the room.

Fastening the boards horizontally

Those who defend this particular method of laying lining use the following arguments:

• The lining is attached upward with a “tenon” (protrusion), therefore, water will not linger between the panels.
• Air circulation will not be reduced, as it is facilitated by the orientation of the slats load-bearing frame(vertical position).
• Practicality. This argument is very impressive if you take into account the specifics of premises with high humidity. Mostly dampness accumulates at a level close to the floor. This means that the bottom will rot more intensely. In this case, when vertical installation lining will have to change all the boards, and with horizontal - only a couple of lower panels.
• Temperature changes cause the boards to begin to deform. This is especially noticeable when they are installed vertically.

It turns out that in a steam room it is better to place the lining horizontally. But in other rooms, baths are at the personal discretion of the owner, taking into account the peculiarities of their design. This includes the “filling”, the overall design, and much more – there are no limits to the home craftsman’s imagination.

There is also a diagonal installation of the lining. It looks impressive, nothing more. In practical terms, fastening the boards in this way does not provide any advantages. And this despite the fact that it is quite difficult to install them using this method with your own hands. Even experienced craftsmen spend a lot of time on this. It is associated with the obligatory accuracy of cutting samples and their proper fitting in place.

Interior decoration of a bathhouse with clapboard - work procedure

Doing it yourself also means freedom of choice - tools, techniques, the same scheme, drugs, and so on. It will be much more useful to dwell on the features of the stages of work.

Preparing the base

Much depends on whether the bathhouse is new or built a long time ago, and the decision to finish it with fittings was made much later. The reader will determine for himself what he needs to do.

• Cleaning up. The task is to identify existing defects during a surface inspection and outline ways to eliminate them, as well as decide what will be needed for this.

• Repairing detected damage. For example, if the bathhouse is a log house, then it is very likely that you will have to remove fungus, bleach the wood and impregnate it with special compounds. In a building made of brick or cellular concrete, cracks may be found that need to be repaired.

• Treatment. Depending on the material of the walls, they must also be coated with an appropriate preparation. Why, if they are not made of wood? You won’t be able to do everything with your own hands, absolutely competently. Practice shows that the formation of condensation on the walls is a common phenomenon during self-finishing. This means that it (and the fungus that accompanies dampness) will gradually move onto the insulation and the lining itself.

Traditionally used impregnations in this case (for wood, concrete) are ineffective for one reason - the short duration of action. Experienced craftsmen It is recommended to coat brick and reinforced concrete with PVA putty. It sets firmly, forms an impenetrable layer and lasts for at least 5 years. But for wooden bath– not an option, since it will stop “breathing.”

Waterproofing

Even if the walls are treated with putty, this layer should not be neglected. Moreover, P/E film is cheap, and its sheets (with overlap) can be fixed with the slats of the supporting frame. The joints are sealed with construction tape. Everything is quite simple and fast.

Installation of supporting frame

• Slats – only wooden; The metal profile is not installed under the lining. The explanation is simple - the numerical value of the expansion coefficient of the mating materials should be approximately equal (ideally identical).
• There is no need to skimp on bars - expensive, but straight ones are better. There will be problems with the “croaker”, since on an uneven basis wooden lining It won't be possible to install it well. The reason is the hardness of the material; dry wood (and other wood is not mounted during finishing), unlike plastic, does not bend.
• How to install the grille depends on the location of the panels. When fastening the lining vertically, the slats are fixed horizontally, and vice versa. It's clear. Another thing is how to choose frame parameters. It all depends on whether a layer of thermal insulation will be installed or not. In the first case, you will have to provide a counter grille, otherwise high-quality air circulation under the finish will not be achieved. In some rooms, insulation may not be needed (warm climate, thick walls, external thermal insulation). Then the thickness of the frame slats can be reduced; leave only a small gap between the lining and the walls.
• Fixation is as rigid as possible. But not nails. This type fasteners easily split wood, especially dried wood. If you use it, then only special ones, anchor ones, with preliminary drilling of the slats.

At this stage, you should immediately lay (arrange) a number of communications:

• Electrical/wiring. But only in a sleeve, and a metal one (corrugated). The wire (cable) must have moisture-repellent insulation.
• Ventilation ducts. With your own hands, it is easy to install sections of metal pipe or corrugation (section 80 - 100 mm) passing through the walls. At the top - at a level of 15 - 20 cm from the ceiling; below – 20 (±5) from flooring. And preferably closer to sauna stove. It is also necessary to provide dampers so that it is possible to regulate the intensity of air exchange.

Internal insulation

This process should be approached rationally. If the decision has been made, then how exactly to create the thermal layer? For the steam room best option– penofol with foil coating. It is placed under the sheathing with the metallized side facing the inside of the room (to effectively reflect IR rays).

In other rooms (if insulation is required) you can limit yourself to mineral wool. Considering that this is a bathhouse and the layer is internal, it is advisable to purchase the “eco” modification, as the most “environmentally friendly” material.

The slabs (rolls) are laid in cells between the slats. Since the cotton wool is elastic, after straightening it is securely held without additional fixation. But provided that the diagram of the supporting frame is drawn up taking into account the size of the samples!

Vapor barrier layer

Many articles on this topic indicate the same film. There is some inaccuracy here. Films are available in various designs. Conventional (solid) insulation is not suitable for vapor barrier, as it does not allow air to pass through. Therefore, only special modifications (with microscopic holes) or appropriate membranes are a fairly large choice.

After installing this layer, as noted above, counter batten slats (to create a ventilation gap). Fastening the material to wood with staples (using a construction stapler).

Directly finishing the bath

If the lining is from a well-known manufacturer, then instructions are always included with the product. But even in its absence, it’s not difficult to figure out how to join the boards. There are protrusions, grooves - everything is very simple. Where to start the assembly is also unimportant, since thinner vertical slats are installed in the corners. Or corner profiles. The decorative component comes in second place here. The main function of these elements is to prevent water from flowing into the joints of the panels in the corners of the room. The most important thing is how to correctly attach the finishing board.

• Be sure to “recess” the hardware into the wood. Therefore, chamfers are made in the lining. Otherwise, when heated, you can get burned on them. Yes, and from an aesthetic point of view, they wood finishing doesn't add any attractiveness.
• Any metal rusts in damp conditions. And this “spreads” onto the tree and appears in the form of red stains and spots. Therefore, only galvanized fasteners.
• Another nuance - what to use? Self-tapping screws, screws, that is, anything that grabs tightly, is not suitable for fixing the lining. The reason is the same - temperature expansion. To fasten the finishing board you need to take small nails or special parts - staples, clamps (available for sale).
• Fastener locations must be sealed. The caps are covered with a primer (of a shade corresponding to the wood) or miniature plastic plugs. They can also be purchased at any furniture store and are inexpensive.

When joining the boards, it is necessary to achieve their maximum adjacency, and then move them apart somewhat (by 2 - 3 mm). For what? Thermal expansion is one thing. But we should not forget that the lining will gradually accumulate moisture, which is inevitable even with regular ventilation and drying of the bathhouse. This means that the boards will swell somewhat.

Ceiling cladding is a separate issue. You need to start the interior decoration of the bathhouse with it. What are the nuances?

1. Firstly, brackets for fixing the boards are not suitable here, since under the weight of the lining they will easily come out of the wood. This means only clamps or nails.
2. Secondly, installation is carried out only from the door (in this case, the visual effect matters).
3. Thirdly, the lining is positioned so that there is a gap of at least 4.5 (±0.5) cm between the ends of the boards and the wall. The reason is that all the heat collects under the ceiling, therefore, it is there that the boards undergo maximum expansion.

In conclusion, it should be noted that lumber, regardless of the degree of industrial drying, species and grade, must be processed before being used for its intended purpose. Because we're talking about about a bathhouse, then the compositions need to be selected wisely, taking into account the structural features. Special attention attention should be paid to the lining for the most “problematic” room - the steam room.

All decorative elements, various slopes, planks and so on are attached in the same way - with hardware. You cannot plant them on glue. Otherwise, in the process of deformation of the wood, the entire finish will begin to warp.

ordinary log walls? This is interesting! A real Russian bathhouse, which from time immemorial was famous for its steam in Rus', is a very wet steam room and a bare frame without any additional finishing. Why is that? The whole technology is simple: in order for the steam to last for a long time, the walls must be massive, heat-intensive and hygroscopic. At first, the log house absorbs moisture well, and then gradually and evenly releases it. During bathing procedures in such a bath, one could even hear a hissing sound - these were logs that were covered with drops of water from the condensed steam and began to absorb water into their pores. And the thicker the frame was, the more luxurious the Russian bathhouse itself was. It’s no wonder that couples in the paintings of famous artists always look so massive!

But this design also has significant disadvantages: it will take a lot of firewood to warm up the wet mass of wood, and it will take at least four hours to heat the bathhouse itself. Plus, logs like this, of course, will not last long - but a hundred years ago they were considered the cheapest and most accessible building material, and therefore there was simply no pity for him. Unfortunately, the situation today is different.

But in modern bath you can no longer do without finishing. Her the main task– significantly reduce heat energy consumption and the heating time itself to an hour or half an hour. And to do this, the mass of wood in the steam room needs to be reduced to 1 cm of lining, under which foil and insulation are placed. It is easy to heat such a steam room; it takes little wood. But, of course, there are also disadvantages: the room cools down quickly, you have to add fuel all the time, and the regime of a real Russian bathhouse is not easy to achieve. After all, steam is no longer accumulated by the walls - it has to be created using expensive furnaces or steam generators, ensuring that it is supplied frequently and regularly, and the process itself must be vigilantly controlled.

Choosing a lining: with what lock and what length?

Good, high-quality lining helps the walls of the bathhouse to “breathe,” prevents the appearance of condensation and fungus, and uniquely regulates the humidity in the bathhouse. The main requirements for these materials are environmental safety requirements. It is worth clarifying that at one time all the lining was made “in tongue” and “in quarter”, but the slats often shifted during operation, and the density of the joints was violated. That is why today almost all lining on the market is made with tongue/groove profiles.

A little secret for those who like to save money: clapboard up to 1.5 meters long in warehouses costs much less than one that is more than 2 m long. And figuring out how to cover a bathhouse with clapboard of this length is not difficult. You just need to make a rail in the middle. But the benefits will be quite tangible.

What is the best way to mount the lining: vertically or horizontally?

Experienced bath attendants have this opinion: when the lining is placed vertically, the temperature of the boards below and above turns out to be different, which cannot but affect their durability. With lining nailed in a horizontal position, shrinkage and widening are much less noticeable later. Also, the horizontal lining of the bathhouse is done with the purpose of visually increasing the length of the wall of a small steam room. Here are more benefits horizontal mounting linings:

• If the floor darkens, it will not be difficult to replace the lining around it.
• Water cannot get into the joint of the boards - and therefore the lining dries better and lasts longer.
• The air behind such a lining circulates much better - all because it requires a vertical frame, and the gap under it also ends up being vertical.
• Another vertical frame for insulation is an excellent barrier for mice.
• Installation horizontal lining much easier to produce than vertical.

An important point: if the lining is mounted horizontally, then the groove should be directed downward.

But vertical lining is indispensable for those baths that operate mainly in sauna mode - with dry air and high temperatures. There is practically no water, and therefore the wood will not darken, and water will not get into the joints of the boards due to the absence of splashes themselves. And so that the air under the lining can circulate well, holes are drilled for this - that’s the whole solution to the problem.

So what is better to sheathe: across or lengthwise? Based on whether you have a real Russian bathhouse, or whether you like the sauna mode, and “banya” is just a name.

Finishing of the washing room: wood or PVC?

In the washing room, the air temperature is, of course, lower than in the steam room, but the humidity is much higher. That is why ordinary lining is rarely used as a finishing material - only if a special hood is installed on the ceiling. And usually it is moisture-resistant larch. Thus, ordinary wooden lining can be used inside the washing compartment of a bathhouse - if you think carefully about how to treat it. This is necessary to prevent mold from multiplying and black spots and insects from appearing. Basically, bath attendants today use a colorless water-based antifungal agent for these purposes.

And here plastic PVC lining, effectively imitating wood, fits perfectly. It is easy to attach, easy to clean and lasts quite a long time. Why not use the same one in a steam room? No plastic is designed for the extreme temperatures that occur in it, but in the washing room it does not deform and does not release any harmful volatile substances into the air.

Plastic lining is also much cheaper than wooden lining. It is important only in the washing room to make a vapor barrier and ventilation gaps: the sheathing is attached, on top of it - polyethylene film, then - slats and lining on them

Is it possible to finish a bath that settles?

Of course, many owners of new baths are not at all happy with the fact that they have to wait more than one month from building the walls to finishing them. But how can such a bathhouse be lined with clapboard if the log house then settles by at least 5 centimeters, and the clapboard and especially the tiles will not survive the deformation. But, in extreme situations, when for some reason it is impossible to wait, high-quality finishing It can still be done if you use special sliding guides under the lining. In this case, the bottom is attached rigidly, and all other fasteners are firmly fixed to the walls and slide slightly down along the same guides.

You can make this floating frame according to the most different technologies, but this method has proven itself best: we make a slot the width of the block, and the same block holds the frame. At the same time, the wall sits freely along the horizon, and this process does not harm the finishing in any way. One more point: you need to take a large self-tapping screw for the lining; the ideal option is a galvanized nail.

In this case, both the guides and the casing are attached such that they do not reach the ceiling by the expected amount of draft. And the ceiling sheathing needs to be attached only to the ceiling itself, and not to the walls. And so that later, after the log has shrunk, there are no gaps between the two sheathings, the ceiling must be sheathed flush with the top of the wall sheathing, and the ceiling plinth must be nailed only to the ceiling.

Oddly enough, you can also lay tiles on shrinking walls - if you first install moisture-resistant cardboard on them with the same sliding guides.

Most not an easy option decoration of the bathhouse - if it itself presents itself with icy walls in winter. In this case, experienced builders do this: inside the box they make an internal insulated frame, with an indentation from the walls. The best finishing in this case, a linden croaker, which will keep all the heat in the steam room.

The process of covering a bathhouse with clapboard is not long and simple, but then the steam room looks, of course, simply amazing.

The quality of steam and microclimate in this room directly depends on the finishing of the bathhouse inside. From all the materials offered by manufacturers, you can choose the best ones, which will not only ensure a high degree of aesthetics for walls and ceilings, but will also enhance the healing effects of bath procedures.

How and what is the best way to decorate a bathhouse inside

Arranging a bathhouse is not an easy task. In this building there are always several rooms, each of which performs its own function. Those materials that are optimal for a dressing room and rest room are not always suitable for finishing a steam room or washing room. Therefore, the owner of a bathhouse needs to know what the criteria for choosing the design and cladding of each room are.

The interior decoration of the bath can be made of the following materials:

• lining;
• planed boards;
• salt panels;
• brick;
• porcelain stoneware;
• natural and artificial stone;
• plastic panels;
• moisture-resistant gypsum plasterboard and gypsum fiber board;
• ceramic tile.

Listed are materials that can be safely used for cladding walls and ceilings of any room. The environmental friendliness and durability of these products have been tested by many years of practice. With the right choice of materials, finishing a bathhouse can be complicated by only one thing: not knowing how to lay, stick or mount them correctly.

Which lining to choose for a bathhouse

There are 4 types of lining, differing in the profile of the boards:

1. Eurolining.
2. Standard (otherwise called “peasant”).
3. Block house (imitation logs).
4. American (imitation timber).

• "Calm";
• "Soft Line";
• "Classical".

Finishing a bathhouse with clapboard is a traditional, frequently used solution. It has gained so much popularity for many reasons. Lining is a natural and therefore environmentally friendly material that is beneficial to human and animal health. When choosing, it is extremely important to consider several points:

• type of wood;
• grade of material;
• resistance to moisture;
• coefficient of thermal conductivity.

Rules for choosing lining grades

Manufacturers offer several options for grading boards:

• "A" - first;
• “B” – second;
• “C” – third;
• "Extra" is the highest.

What “highest” is is not specified in the state standards. This indicator is not used anywhere in the world except Russia. Domestic manufacturers They often pass off grade “A” wood as “Extra”, and grade “B” boards as “A”. This is what caused the appearance of premium lining on the market. Recommendations for choosing grades are as follows:

• the interior decoration of the bathhouse can be made of second-grade boards;
• For rooms with high humidity, the presence of rot and wane in the wood is unacceptable.

Rules for visual inspection of boards and assessment of their condition

The following must be taken into account:

1. Pay attention to the quality of the chips. The boards must have a flat and smooth surface. This directly affects economic benefits finishing works. If the front side of the lining is rough, finishing will be complicated increased consumption antiseptic and paint and varnish materials.
2. The moisture content of the boards should not exceed 12-16% (GOST requirement). It is visually impossible to determine whether the material offered by the manufacturer meets this criterion. Therefore, it is necessary to request documents confirming compliance with GOST. If the wood is not dry enough, there is a high risk that it will suffer during the first years of operation of the finished premises.
3. Pay attention to the depth and evenness of the groove. These indicators determine the quality of installation. And it doesn’t matter how it will be done: using clamps, nails or staples. If the groove is shallow, there will be nothing for the fasteners to grab onto.

An important characteristic of boards is width. Often there are lamellas on sale that are wider than standard ones (more than 88 mm) and managers assure that it is more profitable to buy such lining. This is not true, since such a finish will be less durable and there is a high risk of wide boards bending when exposed to moisture.

Criteria for selecting wood species

The finishing of the walls and ceilings of the bathhouse can be made of the best types of wood.

Material	Advantages	Flaws
Spruce	Low price, wood does not darken over time, small number of knots, low degree of resin, dries quickly. Finishing with second grade boards is acceptable	Often leads
Pine	It is a source of phytoncides that heal the body, is resistant to moisture, and has low thermal conductivity. It is recommended to finish with first grade boards	Gnarly, resinous
Aspen	An excellent antiseptic, highly resistant to moisture, has a pleasant color tint, and is not tarry. Finishing steam rooms with aspen is a recognized option for arranging these rooms	Possible hidden rot
Linden	Low price, structural integrity, small number of knots	The softness of wood, which complicates the installation process and operation
Alder	Beautiful texture and color, high moisture resistance, low thermal conductivity, strength. Alder finishes are suitable for recreational areas	High price
Larch	The best moisture resistance among other types of wood, low thermal conductivity, impressive texture, small number of knots. Larch finishing is suitable for any bath room	High price
Cedar	The best indicators of therapeutic and health characteristics, high strength, hardness, high-quality noise absorption, not susceptible to rot and insects. Cedar finishing is the best solution for steam rooms and relaxation rooms	High price

Stages of covering a bathhouse with clapboard

Covering a bathhouse with clapboard is no different from a similar process for finishing facades and premises for any other purpose. To complete the task without errors, simply follow our installation instructions.

How to attach lining in a bathhouse

Installation of lining in a bathhouse begins with choosing a method for attaching the boards and preparing the tools necessary to perform this work.

The following options are used:

1. Finishing method hidden fastening linings. Claimers are used. These are metal products that are inserted with one side into the groove of the board, and the second part, protruding from the groove, is attached to the sheathing posts. For this purpose use: – nails (included in the package of clamps) and a hammer or nailing gun; – flat head screws and a screwdriver; – galvanized metal staples and an electric construction stapler.
2. Finishing method open method fastening the lining. With this installation method, galvanized finishing nails are used, which are driven directly into the lining boards from its front side. Against the background of wood texture and knots, fasteners are invisible. After the paintwork is completed, they are barely visible.
3. Stages of attaching lining to clamps. Using a tape measure, a pencil and a building level, mark the location of the first lamella on the sheathing posts. Turn the board with the groove down and apply it to the sheathing, focusing on the previously made marks. Place the clamp into the groove of the lining and attach it to the sheathing post using the chosen method: with a bracket, screws or nails. Repeat the process at all points where the boards intersect with the sheathing.

Lathing for lining in a bathhouse

Fastening the lining is possible either directly to the wall or to the sheathing. In the first case, impeccable evenness is required base surface, which is rare. Therefore, clapboard finishing is traditionally done on the sheathing.

For its installation, well-dried wooden blocks with a cross section of 30x40 mm, 40x40 mm, 40x50 mm, 50x50 mm are used. The parameters of the racks are selected depending on the area of ​​the wall. If it is small, then bars of a smaller cross-section are suitable. Finishing large areas requires thick and durable lumber.

If necessary, battens can be laid between the posts thermal insulation materials: slabs mineral wool, penofol, expanded polystyrene sheets. Most often, the first option is chosen, because polystyrene foam, when exposed to high temperatures, begins to release styrene that is harmful to health.

High-quality interior finishing is important in a bathhouse. It is unacceptable to use materials that may reduce the usefulness of hygiene procedures.

The stages of installing the sheathing for the lining are as follows:

1. Calculation of the amount of lumber. In order to properly make the sheathing, you need to draw up a drawing of it. It is important to maintain the recommended pitch between the posts: 45-60 cm. The thinner the selected lumber, the smaller the distance between the bars should be. The sheathing consists of horizontally laid upper and lower guides and located between them vertical racks. Draw up a drawing for each wall, indicate on it the dimensions of the room and calculate the required amount of lumber.
2. Wood preparation. The purchased lumber is brought into the room and left there for 1-2 days. During this time, the wood will have time to “acclimatize” and gain desired temperature and humidity. After which, each block is covered with a layer of antiseptic on all sides and ends. This task can be accomplished in two ways: – cover all surfaces with a paint brush; – prepare a container of such length that you can pour an antiseptic into it and immerse the bar in it.
3. Leave the lumber to dry for the period recommended by the manufacturer of the antiseptic solution.
4. Marking the walls. For execution marking works you will need: – a plumb line; – construction bubble or hydraulic level; – roulette; - pencil; - construction square.
5. Using the listed tools, marks are made on the walls in accordance with the previously drawn up drawing. In this way, the location of all the sheathing bars is found.
6. Installation of sheathing. Wooden blocks fasten to the walls in any convenient way: using nails or self-tapping screws. The distance between fixation points should not exceed 40 cm.

Fastening the slats

There are several ways to decorate a bathhouse with clapboard. The slats can only be laid horizontally or diagonally. It is also possible to combine these techniques. In this way, they create the design of the room that is most pleasant and beneficial for the owner.

It should be noted that when installing boards diagonally, it is necessary to reduce the distance between the sheathing posts. This method of attaching lamellas entails a greater consumption of materials than with traditional horizontal laying of lining. Finishing walls with diagonal direction of the boards is complicated by the greater labor intensity of the work.

How to cover the walls in a bathhouse

The interior decoration of a bathhouse can be done not only with clapboard. The list of materials suitable for this purpose is wide. An effective technique is finishing with salt panels and blocks. This is an expensive material, so it can be used for installing partitions or panels.

Salt slabs have high heat resistance, but are not recommended for installation in rooms with high levels of air humidity. As a result, this finish is suitable for rest rooms and Finnish saunas with dry air. A cozy and comfortable atmosphere can be created by facing with salt slabs in combination with their lighting, internal or external.

The panels are attached to the walls using a two-component adhesive based on caustic magnesite. If small blocks are purchased, they can be glued to inexpensive ones. This finish will be more economical, but no less durable and aesthetically pleasing. Salt panels can be attached to any surface. These facing blocks are used if the bathhouse is built of brick, wood, concrete, plastered, lined with gypsum fiber board or gypsum board.

You can't help but pay attention to the ceiling. It is sheathed with materials that harmoniously combine with the walls. The bathhouse cannot boast of high ceilings, because they are not needed. For this building, rapid heating of the premises is important, which is possible with low walls.

If the bathhouse is built of timber or logs, the ceilings in the rooms do not need to be tiled, but rather covered with varnish or a tinting compound. In this case, it is necessary to perform high-quality insulation from the attic.

If the bathhouse is built of brick, foam or aerated concrete, the ceiling can be finished with the same facing materials, as the walls. Methods for facing horizontal and vertical surfaces are the same. But, before attaching wooden slats or other material to the ceiling, you need to make sure the strength of the load-bearing surface.

Headlining

The decoration in the bathhouse will be disharmonious if the walls and ceiling are covered with materials that are identical in appearance but of different quality. This method is used only for the sake of economy. High ceiling can hide the difference in color shade or other surface features. But the bathhouse is traditionally built with a height of no more than 280 cm.

In order for the design of the room to correspond to the mood evoked by hygiene and relaxation procedures, environmentally friendly and aesthetically attractive materials are used in the cladding. If the walls are covered with wooden slats, most often the ceiling is made in the same way. The installation rules are the same. A sheathing is also built on the ceiling, having previously drawn up a drawing of it. The lamellas are attached to the bars using the same method as for wall cladding.

Decorating the rest room

The bathhouse is always perceived as a place of relaxation from everyday worries. Each room in it is intended for its own purposes. The name of the relaxation room speaks for itself: this is where you relax after water procedures. Therefore, it is important to create a cozy and relaxing environment in it.

Washroom finishing

Steam room finishing

Finishing steam rooms with natural stone is effective and beneficial in terms of heat capacity. This material can be combined with others. So, one wall can be faced with stone, and all the rest with wood. Artificial materials are not used in the steam room. Natural stone heats up quickly, retains heat for a long time and gradually releases heat, which helps create an optimal microclimate for water procedures.

With the correct selection and installation of materials, the finishing of the bath will fully correspond to the purpose of each room.