Construction of a private house is a long process that requires a lot of time, labor and finances. Many, in an effort to save money, decide to carry out some of the work themselves. How to make floors in private homes without resorting to the services of builders? It’s quite possible to make the floor yourself if you have necessary materials, tools and knowledge.

Which floor design to choose?

Before you begin work on the construction of floors in a private house, you need to decide on the type of construction of the future coating. Experts distinguish three types of structures:

• Single;
• Double;
• Concrete floor.

The choice of one type of construction or another depends on the characteristics of the building in which the floor is laid. The operating conditions of a private home can be considered the determining factor. A single floor is the simplest design; erecting such a floor does not require a lot of time and materials, since the floorboards are nailed directly to the joists. The main disadvantage of a single plank floor is the limited use of it: such a coating would only be appropriate in small areas. summer houses and at the dachas. For a house where year-round living is planned, a single structure is not suitable.

Scheme of the possible implementation of a “double” floor and a concrete one.

If you want to do a private house, suitable for living at any time of the year, then you will have to arrange a double floor. This type of construction is warmer, reduces heat loss and ensures comfortable living in the house during the cold season. A double floor consists of several layers, the main ones being rough and finishing coatings. Between these two layers, hydro- and heat-insulating materials are additionally laid, protecting both the floor itself and the entire house from destruction.

Most often, the rough covering in a private house is assembled from unedged boards, and the finished floor is made of tongue-and-groove floorboards. All work, including laying thermal insulation from sawdust or expanded clay, can be easily done with your own hands.

Boards for the subfloor.

The third possible type of floor construction in a private house is pouring a concrete screed. Compliance with all the rules for carrying out preparatory work, laying waterproofing, pouring cement mortar and drying times will allow you to get a solid, high-quality floor, ready for finishing with any decorative coating.

Installation of wooden floors

When building a private house, many people prefer to make the floor out of wood. Such a desire to have quality underfoot wood flooring explained by the desire to use environmentally clean materials which includes wood. In addition to being highly environmentally friendly, such a floor has a number of other advantages.

Wooden floors are easy to install and easy to repair during use. Due to the low thermal conductivity of the material, such a floor will retain heat inside the house without letting it out. Plank flooring made from high-quality wood has a long service life and an attractive “natural” appearance.

To make a floor in a private house, you need to choose the right wood. Choice starting materials should be based on the design features of the structure itself. Floor installation in country house must necessarily provide for the presence of a subfloor that plays the role of air gap. If such a layer is missing, the wooden floor will quickly become unusable due to exposure to moisture. In addition, for a good floor, it is important to have all the layers of the structure, including joists, rough flooring, hydro- and thermal insulation, and a finishing coating.

The floor in a private house is subject to significant mechanical loads, so for its construction it is necessary to choose wood with good technological characteristics. The boards must be well dried, the recommended moisture content is no more than 12%. Any chips or cracks on the surface of the material are not acceptable. Experts recommend giving preference to wood coniferous species, pine, larch, fir, cedar are suitable. To increase the service life of the future floor, all boards must be treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant.

Installation of a wooden floor begins with determining the locations for the support posts and their installation. Fertile layer the soil around the entire perimeter of the house is removed and removed, gravel is poured in its place, and sand is poured on top of it. Layers of gravel and sand must be compacted well. Placed on the ends of the support pillars waterproofing material, most often ordinary roofing felt is used for these purposes.

Backfilling with gravel.

Next we make the beams that need to be secured to the posts metal corners. It is better to make floors in a private house with double insulation. Experts suggest first laying on the sides of the beams plywood sheets, and then place mineral wool or other insulating material on them.

When the insulation layer is ready, you can start laying rough coating. The boards of this layer should fit well to each other; ordinary screws can be used to attach them to the beams. It is better to leave some distance between the flooring and the walls of the house: a gap of 1.5 cm can be considered the norm for this part of the floor. These gaps provide ventilation to the entire floor structure and protect the walls from expansion of the floor boards as they subsequently dry out.

A layer of vapor barrier made of polyethylene film with a thickness of 200 microns is laid on top of the subfloor. The joints of individual pieces of film must be taped, and the edges must be folded onto the walls to a height of about 20 cm - the height of the final coating. When the film is laid and secured, you can proceed to assembling the finished floor.

The finished floor is assembled from solid wood boards or plywood sheets. Plywood sheets are easier to attach, but in the end they don’t look very attractive. Therefore, if you want to leave wooden floors in your home, then it is best to immediately assemble the finishing coating from a tongue-and-groove board, and if you plan to cover it decorative material– just secure the plywood sheets. After assembling the finished floor, plank floors must be coated with varnish, which will not only protect the material from external influences of a mechanical and chemical nature, but will also emphasize the decorative qualities of natural wood.

Pouring a concrete floor

The installation of a concrete floor in a private house begins with preparatory work. First, markings and gravel filling are made on the site of the future floor. The soil is first cleared of plants and the top layer, and then compacted. Next, a layer of gravel is poured, which also needs to be compacted well. In the construction of a concrete floor in a private house, gravel will act as thermal insulation. Sand is poured on top of the gravel. After compacting it, a thick layer is spread on the surface. polyethylene film, acting as a waterproofing material.

How to make a concrete floor in a private house? After installing the waterproofing layer, you can begin pouring the screed. A cement screed in a country house is poured in the same way as a screed in an apartment: levels are set and the mortar is poured, which is leveled from wall to door according to the rule.

When pouring a concrete screed, several features should be taken into account. The solution for pouring must be fresh; for its preparation it is recommended to use cement of a grade not lower than M-300, screening out sand and water. To increase the strength of the concrete layer, you can add special compounds to the solution - plasticizers, which will give the future coating additional strength.

When pouring screeds with a height of 5 cm or more, you can use reinforcing elements or reinforcing mesh, which is laid on waterproofing layer before pouring. In the case of installing warm water floors in a private house, the use of reinforcing mesh and the addition of plasticizers to cement mortar are mandatory procedures.

When the concrete hardens a little after pouring, you can remove the beacons. The voids left after their removal are filled with the same solution. After filling and leveling all the cracks, the floor is covered with polyethylene and left to dry. Drying a concrete floor is a long and responsible undertaking. The concrete should dry on its own within a month; if you have a heated floor system, the heating will be up to completely dry It is prohibited to turn on the couplers. By turning on the heating elements, you will help the concrete crack before the room is used. When drying concrete screed It is recommended to periodically moisten it with water and cover it again with polyethylene: if this requirement is met, the coating will gain maximum strength and will not crack.

To do it right cement pouring, remove the beacons and dry the concrete, it is recommended to look at photos of the work of builders who specialize in arranging floors in private homes.

Finishing

Making just a finished floor in a private house from scratch is quite simple, but sometimes additional installation is required decorative covering. You can also cope with this problem yourself. How can you cover the floor in a private house?

The best option for a private home can be considered a double floor made of boards. The finishing coating of this design does not need to be coated with anything additional. This option is practical and beautiful, and also has a long service life. proper care. Before use, the boards should be treated with protective compounds and coated with varnish, which will protect them from sand, dirt, water and chemical substances. For coating, you can choose either a transparent varnish, leaving the natural color of the wood, or a colored one, giving the floor a different shade.

A concrete floor in a private house requires a top layer of decorative coating. Parquet or parquet boards will look chic as a floor finish. This coating is quite expensive, but is highly environmentally friendly, has good antistatic and thermal insulation characteristics. It makes no sense to make parquet, but in a house where you plan to live permanently, such a covering will look appropriate.

As analogues to parquet, you can consider more affordable laminate, linoleum, carpet and ceramic tiles. Laminate will do for living room and bedrooms, ceramic tile It will look appropriate in the kitchen, bathroom and hallway. It is also better to place linoleum only in the kitchen or hallway. The use of carpet is more limited: the material is suitable for finishing floors in bedrooms.

The range of modern colors and textures of the listed materials allows you to choose a coating to suit every taste. In a private home, floors with natural patterns that replicate the texture of wood or natural stone would look appropriate.

Longevity and excellent aesthetic characteristics of the finish flooring provides a subfloor in wooden house, which is done using different methods.

A rough base is understood as a special structure necessary to form the most level area for the finishing floor covering. Its second task is to ensure uniform distribution of the load on the floor. The rough foundation can be arranged in two ways:

1. Dry - logs are used.
2. Wet - the leveling structure is created using a concrete screed.

Rough subfloor

Among other things, the subfloor in a wooden house is installed in order to increase the thermal insulation performance of the home. In wooden buildings, the wet method of arranging a leveling base is used very rarely. Usually it is created using lag. In this case, the rough floor area is mounted on the base or on the floors (their function is performed by thick beams or reinforced concrete slabs). Next, we’ll talk about how to properly make a preliminary floor using wooden elements.

Before you begin arranging the rough foundation, you must choose the method by which it will be installed and determine the amount of materials required. After this, a series of holes should be made in the corners of the residential building made of wood. round shape. They will provide effective ventilation subfloor and will increase the service life of both the subfloor and the finishing floor. The holes will not spoil the appearance of your home. Upon completion of all the planned work, you will simply disguise them with decorative ventilation grilles.

Then it is necessary to treat the entire underground space and the logs directly with an antiseptic composition. Laying a rough foundation on an untreated site is not permitted. You need to understand that various microorganisms can appear on the elements of the subfloor during the operation of the building. If wooden joists If not treated, they will very quickly be destroyed by mold and mildew. And it is almost impossible to repair the preliminary foundation - access to it is either completely impossible or very difficult.

• hot resin - it protects against negative influence moisture, and from a variety of insect pests;
• solutions VVK-3, HCP or MCHC;
• ammonium fluoride;
• chlorophos - it is most often used as protection against insects;
• sodium fluoride.

Wood processing products

All these compounds are safe for humans. They don't highlight harmful substances and at the same time have the required indicators of waterproofing of wood. Processing with their help should be carried out strictly according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Note! Boards for the subfloor need to be processed only on the back side. But on the logs themselves, crowns and beams protective compounds applied from all sides.

Additionally, it is recommended to process rough foundation fire retardants. Now sold in specialty stores universal formulations, which simultaneously protect the wood from fire, moisture and the effects of microorganisms.

For installation of a platform under the floor finishing coat stock up on the following materials:

1. Wooden blocks of the third or second grade - logs. In most cases, such products are characterized by a not very smooth surface. Therefore, they need to be slightly corrected. Your job is to make them front side(the one on which laminate, parquet boards or other covering will then be laid) more or less flat. This operation is performed with an ax. Naturally, nothing needs to be done with logs made from first grade wood. Such products themselves are very smooth.
2. Bricks for the construction of support pillars. The height of the finished supports should be at the level of 20–25 cm, and their dimensions are usually 40x40 cm. The number of brick pillars is determined by geometric parameters wooden house and its floor base. The supports are mounted on cement mortar.
3. Plywood or boards. With their help, the first and second rough layers are laid.
4. Polyethylene film or other waterproofing material. It is needed to protect the logs from rotting.
5. Heat and vapor barrier material.

Installation of a platform for finishing floor covering

Also, laying the structure we describe is impossible without the use of fasteners. Wooden logs are most often connected to brick supports with 4x5, 5x5 cm bolts and steel corners.

How to make a floor correctly - instructions for beginners

The design discussed in the article can have two or one layer. If the beams are attached to the walls of a wooden residential building, installation of logs is mandatory. IN similar situation the distance between individual beam products is quite large. If the distance between the beams is minimal, the leveling base can be made directly on them.

Scheme self-execution installation work is this:

1. Install brick pillars (they serve as supports for the black base) or make a frame of boards around the perimeter of the room. If supporting elements made of bricks are used, roofing felt must be laid on top of them.
2. Attach the joists to the base of the house. Fix them with bolts and metal corners (to brick supports) or (to wood frames).
3. When installing joists, leave 20 mm gaps near all wall surfaces. Heat-insulating material can be placed in these cracks. If the support distance of the logs to the base of the house is short (less than 10 cm), they are installed in the same way. And then they press it with a fairly massive beam. It is fixed tightly in the walls of the building. The walls of the house and the sections of timber joints are measured, after which the corresponding cut is made. It is advisable to take its dimensions a couple of centimeters larger than those that you get as a result of measurements. Do not forget that the joists will expand slightly when exposed to moisture.
4. Install at the bottom of the supports for the rough foundation cranial bars. Then connect them to the joists on the sides. Geometric parameters Such bars are always taken smaller than the dimensions of the main elements.
5. Mount the boards on the beams. There is no need to attach them. Wood will expand during use. Loose placement of the boards will not interfere with this natural process.
6. On floor base lay a layer of waterproofing. The selected moisture-proof material (for example, polyethylene film) should be fixed to the wall surfaces. On them, the waterproofing agent extends to a height that is equal to the height of all existing levels of the feasible floor base (this figure also includes the finishing of the floor). Fasten the areas connecting the pieces of film together with a construction stapler.
7. Lay a layer of thermal insulation. The height of the logs should be slightly greater than the thickness of the heat-shielding material. For wooden buildings it is permitted to use any materials for

   Subfloor thermal insulation layer

   Next, cover the prepared pie. vapor barrier material. It is also fixed to the walls of the building with a stapler. The joints of vapor barrier products are glued together using construction tape. If the thermal insulation material was laid exactly according to the height of the logs, thin slats should be mounted on their sides. They will hold the insulation in place. As a result, you will have a gap under the floor for ventilation.

   The final work is laying plywood, boards, OSB boards on the rough base. Installation of the second layer of the base is carried out in the same way as you installed the first part of the structure (leave gaps at the walls, place heat-insulating material in them, and so on). Fastening of boards, slabs and sheets is done in increments of 10–14 cm using stainless self-tapping screws.

   As you can see, it is not difficult to arrange a rough foundation with your own hands. Good luck in this matter!

When building a new house or renovating an old one, it is very important to properly make the floor for laying the flooring. If you are going to make a subfloor in a wooden house with your own hands, then you should know how to construct it and the technology to choose from. optimal option. To choose the right subfloor option for a wooden house, you need to take into account the features of the floor covering, as well as the need for hydro- and thermal insulation.

Floor design

Regardless of the choice of method for installing the subfloor, the following layers must be provided in the structural cake:

• Underlying layer. This is the bottom part of the floor pie. The layer is needed to evenly distribute the loads from the elements laid above. Typically, this structure is made of floor slabs, beams (joists), rammed soil or concrete preparation.
• Intermediate layer needed to connect the lower and upper elements of the pie into one whole (it is not available in all designs).
• Insulation layer performs the functions of heat, hydro or sound insulation of the floor. The choice of materials for this layer depends on the design features, the purpose of the room and the type of floor covering.
• Rough leveling layer. The purpose of this part of the pie is to level out the unevenness of the previous layer. Sometimes at this stage the required slope of the floor surface is provided. The arrangement of this layer can be done using a dry backfill of sand or gravel or by installing a concrete screed.
• Final leveling layer. It is not always needed. Laying the finishing layer is required when finishing the floor with laminated boards, carpet or linoleum. Finishing leveling does not need to be done under ceramic tiles.

Two flooring options are suitable for a wooden house:

• arrangement of floors along logs;
• You can make a dry screed or pour a wet screed.

In turn, the arrangement of floors along logs in a private wooden house can be carried out along beams or concrete base. By the way, such floors can be arranged in brick house or construction from foam blocks.

Subfloor on joists

Preliminary stage of floor installation using joists

If you decide to make a subfloor using joists with your own hands, keep in mind that joists are supporting element for laying rough flooring made of plywood, boards, OSB. In turn, depending on the design of a private structure, logs can be laid on pillars, beams or a mortgage element. They can be used not only in a private wooden house, but also in a house made of foam blocks.

If the room has big sizes, then attaching the lags with their edges to the beams will not provide adequate strength to the base. In this case, it is necessary to use intermediate posts. The pitch of the support columns depends on the cross-section of the logs. Usually the step is taken to be 0.8-1 m. The material of the columns is brick or concrete. Even in a house made of foam blocks, it is better to make columns from durable materials.

The post is installed on a shallow concrete foundation. The foundation is installed over a layer of compacted sand and crushed stone. The brick column is insulated from the joists and the foundation with rolled insulating material, for example, roofing felt.

Technology for constructing a subfloor using joists

The subfloor in a wooden house with joists is done in the following order:

1. Before installing the logs, it is necessary to stretch the fishing line above the surface and mark the places where the beams are attached. This will allow the elements to be placed on the same level, which will facilitate further work on the floor installation.
2. If the installation of logs in a private wooden house will be carried out on a base made of concrete, foam blocks or bricks, then they must be protected with a layer of waterproofing. So wooden elements will not absorb moisture from the base. Thick polyethylene film can be used as insulation. In addition, logs must be treated with fire retardants and antiseptics.
3. The installation step of the joists depends on the load on the floor. For a living room, the optimal log pitch is 45 cm. The logs are screwed to the base using self-tapping screws and pre-installed drilled holes dowels
4. All wooden structural elements must be treated with impregnations that protect the wood from rotting and burning.
5. If the floor of the first floor is being installed, the room must be protected from moisture and insulated. To do this, bars are nailed to the bottom of the side surfaces of the logs on both sides. You can use timber with a cross section of 50x50 mm.
6. Next, you need to make a backing of plywood or boards for laying in the gaps between the insulation joists. To do this, sheets of plywood are cut according to the width of the gap between the joists and laid on top of the bars. Plywood is nailed to the beams. As a result, you will get a structure made of wood, like the letter “W”.
7. Before laying the thermal insulation material, it is necessary to make a waterproofing layer. To do this, the insulating material is laid on the joists so that it sag into the gaps between them. For these purposes, you can take membrane waterproofing or polyethylene film.
8. Now the insulation is laid in the gaps between the joists directly on top of the insulating material. Thermal insulation can be done using mineral or basalt wool. We attach the film to the joists with a stapler.
9. To properly make the floor, you need to remember about the vapor barrier. To do this, the film is laid over the logs and thermal insulation material. Be sure to overlap adjacent sheets by 15 cm. The joints are taped.
10. Now you can lay the rough flooring. It can be made from plywood, chipboard, boards or OSB.
11. Depending on the choice of floor covering, the finished floor can be laid next, or finishing leveling can be carried out for laying tiles, laminate or linoleum.

Video instructions - installing the floor along the joists:

Dry floor screed

Often the subfloor in frame house can be arranged on the ground. Sometimes such a base near the floor is made in houses made of foam blocks or bricks without a basement. As a rule, a dry screed is laid on a specific base. In this case, the base of the floor will consist of the following layers:

• rammed soil;
• sand compacted cushion 100 mm high;
• a backfill of crushed stone 100 mm high is also tamped (for additional waterproofing, crushed stone can be treated with cement laitance);
• This is followed by concrete preparation, which serves as the preparatory layer of the floor (filling height 7-10 cm).

Important: if difficult geological conditions are observed at the construction site (soil swelling, high level groundwater), then installation concrete preparation It's better to do it with reinforcement.

For reinforcement concrete pouring use a rod with a diameter of 8 mm. A mesh with cells measuring 150x150 mm is made from it. The reinforcement mesh is installed on mortar piles so that after pouring the concrete preparation, the mesh is located in the thickness of the layer. On each side it should be protected with a two-centimeter layer of concrete. This must be done to protect the fittings from corrosion.

Dry screed technology for subfloors

After pouring the concrete preparation, further installation of the floor can be done after 28 days. Work on installing a dry screed in a wooden house is carried out in the following order:

1. To properly install a dry screed, you first need to make insulation. To do this, insulation made of polyethylene film is laid on the base. Strips of material must be laid with an overlap of 150 mm and placed on the walls of the room to a height of 2 cm higher than the level of the screed. The joints of the film are taped with tape (see video).

Important: try not to damage the integrity of the insulating material. If cuts or punctures appear, patches must be applied.

1. Next, a damper tape is attached to the walls along the perimeter of the room. It is needed to compensate for deformation changes in the floor surface, as well as to protect against impact noise. The width of the tape should be slightly larger than the thickness of the screed (see video).
2. Now you can install the beacons. It is better to use drywall guides as beacons. They are laid on mortar heaps. The pitch of the beacons from the walls of the room is 30 cm, between themselves - along the length of the rule or 1 meter.
3. After the beacons are leveled, granular material, for example, expanded clay sand, is poured between them. Its surface is leveled using the beacon rule.
4. Next, sheets of plywood, OSB, chipboard or gypsum fiber board are laid. They will serve as a subfloor. Before laying the finishing surface, they must be treated with a deep penetration primer.

Video instructions for installing dry floor screed.

To get it in a private wooden house, you need to make a multi-layer structure. This will ensure a cozy microclimate in the room and save money on heating.

But, in order to properly equip your own hands with an even and high-quality final coating, you must first make a subfloor. The structure and complexity will be dictated by the type heating elements, which are planned to be installed in the house.

A subfloor is needed, first of all, to level the surface on which the final coating will be laid. That is why during installation it is necessary to maintain the horizontal position of the laid logs and beams, because they will be the base.

Also, a subfloor is necessary to create high-quality thermal insulation in a wooden house. Its thermal insulation layer is different thicknesses, which depends on the specific insulation used, and it is mounted on waterproofing.

Each element consisting of wood in such a floor must be impregnated with a special moisture-resistant mixture to prevent them from rotting in the future.

In the first few years after laying, log houses can shrink significantly, in some cases up to 17 cm within 3 years. To prevent this from causing deformation of the finishing coating, a system of fastening subfloor elements directly to the walls of the room is used.

In such structures, concrete screed is rarely used to create a flat surface. The entire load during the use of the house falls on the subfloor, which is why for installation it is advisable to choose dried logs and timber with a thickness of at least 5 cm.

In order to correctly distribute the load on the base, it is necessary to correctly select the step for installing the logs and the thickness of the boards.

During the construction of a home, the subfloor will determine what type of subfloor should be used.

Typically installation occurs on:

• special floors (either beams or reinforced concrete slabs);
• directly to the ground.

To create a high-quality subfloor in any wooden house, the following materials are used:

1. Brick pillars, the size of which is 40x40 cm and at least 20 cm in height. They will be installed with cement mortar. To determine the required number, you need to make a calculation based on parameters such as the size of the logs, as well as the total area of ​​the room.
2. Waterproofing. This can be either ordinary high-density polyethylene film or other materials with such properties. Such material is necessary to prevent rotting of wooden elements.
3. Lags. They will be attached to the installed brick pillars. The distance between them is determined by the size of the boards, and their length will be equal to the corresponding characteristics of the room.
4. Fastening elements such as corners and bolts.
5. The material that will be used to apply the rough coating. It can be like boards or plywood.
6. Elements that will be used as insulation and waterproofing materials.

To choose the right material, you need to give preference to those types that meet stringent requirements. When choosing, you should take into account: the presence of good thermal conductivity, strength, as well as fire safety of the material, complexity of installation and weight.

Among the insulation materials, the following have optimal qualities: expanded polystyrene, glass wool, and also basalt wool.

• The first option is very expensive pleasure. Typically, its use is advisable in cases where the insulation needs to be placed in a layer of minimal thickness.
• Basalt wool is average in terms of price/quality ratio. It is quite dense, non-flammable and has good moisture-resistant properties.
• Glass wool is very sensitive to dampness, so good waterproofing is necessary for its installation.
• Isoplast, polyethylene, as well as PVC membranes and ordinary roofing felt are used as waterproofing. These products have good basic properties to protect the insulation from possible penetration of moisture.

Installation of the subfloor is step by step process laying different layers:

1. First you need to nail the skull blocks to the joists in the lower side part. For this purpose, boards are suitable whose width is 8 cm greater than that of the joists. ;
2. The boards are laid on top of the bars and are not fixed. They will act as the basis for the next layer of thermal insulation;
3. Various film options act as waterproofing. During installation, it is worth remembering that this material should go slightly onto the walls, where it will be fixed with a stapler;
4. After waterproofing, insulation is laid between the beams. If the height allows, it can be laid in several layers, and on top of it is a vapor barrier, which should also extend onto the walls. Fixation can be done using a stapler and tape. If the logs are the same height as the insulation, counter battens are used to create ventilation. They need to be nailed along the joists and you will get the required clearance;
5. The last layer is a covering of boards or chipboard sheets. During installation, a gap of 2 cm must be left between them and the wall. It must be sealed with thermal insulation, after which the subfloor will be ready.

Floors in wooden houses should be reliable, warm, durable and beautiful. You can achieve the desired result independently or with the assistance of professional builders. Information about the features of flooring in a wooden house is important in both cases. Firstly, because it will be required to carry out the work independently, and secondly, to control employees.

Process Features

Floors in a wooden house consist of several layers. And to ensure comfortable conditions residence, it is important to correctly determine the components of the floor “pie”.

The main element of the building structure for the floor is the strapping. For permanent buildings, it is usually made of powerful timber with cross-sectional parameters of at least 150 x 80 millimeters.

Often the timber is replaced with several boards securely connected to each other. Plank strapping is more stable. The boards are not subjected to the stresses that the timber experiences.

Products used for strapping must be pre-treated with an antiseptic. Used oils are often used as such. Oiled wooden parts do not rot and do not absorb moisture, so they last for many years. If there is no oil, use special means, available in every hardware store.

To extend the service life of the harness, you need to lay waterproofing on the foundation. Usually this is roofing material folded in two layers.

The strapping requires installation of logs. These are wide, powerful boards that need to be strengthened on the edge. They, just like the harness, need to be treated with an antiseptic. The joists must first be carefully inspected and cracks, if any, must be repaired. It is better to replace boards with major flaws with better ones.

In light buildings it is allowed to make prefabricated logs. For fastening components use special staples or pins. The docking points should be supported for greater reliability.

If the load is planned to be significant, it is better to strengthen the structure in advance. To do this, the cross-section of the lags is calculated, and their step is made small, from 60 centimeters.

The logs are hemmed with boards, on which a membrane is laid, preventing the penetration of wind and moisture into the room. Insulation is placed in the resulting cells. Depending on the chosen method, it can be either expanded clay or polystyrene foam, polyethylene foam or mineral wool. The insulation is covered with a vapor barrier. Further actions depend on the preferences of the home owners. Any type of floor can be used as a finished floor. available options, including water heated floors.

Structure of the structure

It’s not enough to build a wooden house; you need to properly install utilities, such as:

• heating;
• water supply;
• sewerage;
• electrical wiring.

Abundance engineering structures indoors it does not look aesthetically pleasing, so it is customary to hide them under the floor. The space between the joists allows you to cover most of the pipes. If there is an underground or ground floor can be installed under the subfloor electric water heater, or you can equip a gas boiler room. The location of the water heater under the floor is especially important for a small shower.

When building a house, it is worth remembering that the wooden floor should be protected from water vapor. Modern building materials allow the structure to breathe and at the same time reliably protect it from moisture damage. Excellent insulation is obtained from isospan.

Izospan is used both when equipping the first floor and the second. It fits under mineral insulation and above him. Non-woven fabric Available in narrow rolls. When laying, individual parts should be overlapped and glued with special double-sided tape. In places of contact with the joists, isospan is attached to them with a construction stapler.

The insulating layer is covered with a continuous flooring. Perhaps OSB plates are best suited for this purpose.

OSB boards widely used in housing construction. They are perfect for arranging floors in wooden houses. Oriented strand board floors are good as a base for wood flooring, parquet, linoleum, carpet and laminate. But you shouldn’t use OSB as a topcoat.

For laying on joists installed in 50 cm increments, 18 mm is considered a sufficient thickness of the plates. If the distance between adjacent logs is 10 cm greater, a greater thickness will be required - 20 mm. OSB boards made by pressing using a special adhesive composition. They are durable, do not rot or dry out. Floors laid according to OSB sheets, do not creak when walking.

Installation is done quickly because:

• does not require special skills;
• the sheets have the correct geometric shape, and no time is wasted on adjustment;
• one standard plate (2500 x 1250 mm) covers an area of ​​3.1 m2.

Types of floors

In private wooden houses, the type of floor depends on the method of covering. There are two options: concrete ( reinforced concrete slab) or wooden. On the second floor, the floors are usually made of wood, since heavier reinforced concrete slabs only increase the load on the foundation.

Inside the house you can equip any of modern options flooring: laminate, parquet, cork, tile and others.

Concrete floors are formed by pouring screed. In some cases, this option saves construction time. The screed is completely ready for further processing after a month. Raw wood requires drying, this takes much more time.

Concrete floors in wooden houses reduce construction costs finishing floors A well-made screed can serve as a basis for finishing without additional layers and surface leveling.

If it is necessary to raise the floor to a certain height, light expanded clay is poured under the screed. This reduces the load on the base without increasing the thickness of the screed itself.

There is a high risk of cracking in a new home. cement screed due to shrinkage of the structure. There will be no serious damage, but heat loss is possible. Prevent Negative consequences possible by installing reliable insulation.

Concrete flooring is possible after calculations have been carried out. As a rule, such a decision is made if there is capital structure strip foundation.

The same is more suitable for a wooden house wooden floor . Wood is environmentally friendly and does not cause allergic reactions for residents: adults and children. Natural material owners are increasingly using country houses, preferring it to brick and various blocks.

It is easy to cover a plank floor with boards on both sides. Reliable fastening allows you to equip a “pie” of insulation, vapor and waterproofing. The multilayer structure can be made in the form of a floating floor. In this case, it will not have direct contact with the base and walls of the house.

Preparatory work

Regardless of whether on the foundation, the ground, screw piles or a structure is simply being erected on brick pillars, the arrangement of the floor begins with preparatory work.

First, prepare the walls by equipping them ventilation holes. Lack of air access to the underground will lead to rapid destruction of the wooden components of the structure.

The materials necessary for arranging the ceiling must be correctly calculated. A wood supply of 10-15 percent would also be useful.

Installation can begin when the bars and boards are sufficiently dry. When the humidity becomes normal, the material is inspected, sorted and treated with anti-rot and fungal agents.

Rough double-layer floors are made where the base is laid directly on open ground.

There are several ways to lay a floor on the ground. If you lower the floor to the minimum, you can compact the earth, lay out a bed of sand, gravel or expanded clay, and then fill it with concrete. True, this option is more suitable for the garage, and not for places intended for permanent residence of people.

In the lung country house, used for seasonal stay, the floor needs to be done differently. First you need to place brick pillars around the entire perimeter. It is very important to ensure that the surfaces of the supports have a uniform height (to the same horizon). Each support must be covered with a layer of roofing felt or roofing felt. A wooden lining 3 cm thick, treated with an antiseptic, should be placed on the waterproofing layer.

This entire structure is closed by beams, along which logs are placed with constant horizontal adjustments. The structure is finally fixed with fasteners. The floor is located on the joists if the production is carried out with a single flooring.

A double floor requires the installation of insulation, hydro- and vapor barriers, and, if necessary, other components between the rough and finished floors.

Laying methods

Rooms in a wooden house will acquire a presentable appearance, and staying in them will become truly comfortable if the flooring is in harmony with the walls. Homogeneous material will make the interior of the room holistic.

The choice of type of wood for the floor depends on:

• material opportunities;
• purpose of the premises;
• planned loads.

With an unlimited budget, choose the most beautiful, durable and dense materials from foreign countries. Exotic trees, growing in tropical forests, have unique properties. They withstand strong moisture, are easy to process, and are resistant to abrasion. In addition, boards made from such trees have beautiful colors. For example, merbau wood can be golden orange or reddish brown. Floor purple can be done if you use rosewood. And striped flooring is obtained when you buy very expensive zebrawood wood.

Boards made from coniferous trees, including pine and spruce, will not require large expenses. From such floors the room is filled with substances useful to humans and pleasant aroma. The wood always remains warm, so it is pleasant to walk on the floor with bare feet.

For showers, baths and saunas, aspen and linden boards are required. They do not emit resin and are resistant to water and high temperatures.

On a veranda open to precipitation, the floor is best made of corrugated oak or larch boards.

The thickness of the floorboards must be selected taking into account the distance between adjacent joists. At a distance of 600 – 700 mm, a thickness of 40 mm is sufficient. If the spans are larger than the specified size, preference should be given to boards with a thickness of 50 mm. As for the width, it is set by the design project or the preferences of the owners.

If you decide to install the floors yourself, remember that it is inconvenient to lay wide boards alone. In addition, the larger the canvas, the greater its shrinkage. The results of this inevitable process may affect the quality of wood flooring. For this reason, it is better to take boards that are not wide and not too long.

One way to install a floor is to lay it staggered; in this method, the joints of the ends of the boards should not coincide in adjacent rows.

If plywood is used as a base, parquet boards glued with mastic or glue and additionally secured with self-tapping screws, as in the case of massive board. It is necessary to glue over the entire area, without voids.

In addition to the traditional straight form of installation, a diagonal one is used. Particularly elegant in spacious room It looks like it is laid at an angle of 45° to the wall.

Arrangement of the floor requires thorough preparation, quite a lot of time and physical effort. Despite this, many believe that it is possible self installation without the involvement of specialists and additional costs. Indeed, by showing persistence, observing step by step guide, you can do without outside help and save a lot of money.

If it is necessary to re-lay the floor, the worn-out finishing coating is removed, the condition of the underlay is checked and, if necessary, repaired. Logs that have flaws must be replaced, as well as other components of the base affected by rot or fungus. During overhaul Wet or caked insulation, as well as insulation, are replaced on floors.

If the joists are in good condition, but begin to sag, you need to put a lining under them, for example, plywood coated with parquet glue.

Instead of expensive membrane films, glassine can be used as a moisture barrier.

When laying under the finishing coating is done with sheet building material(Fibreboard, OSB, plywood), it is attached to the base with self-tapping screws. The fastening points must be located at a distance of at least 20 mm from the edge of the sheet with a pitch of about 150 mm. The screw caps should be recessed into the body by 3 mm. The resulting depressions should be filled with putty. Without putty, the finish at the attachment points will be damaged. negative impact. And after some time, traces of poorly performed work will appear on it.