What is underground rabbit farming? What should be the conditions of detention? Advantages and disadvantages of the method. How to equip a dwelling and catch animals in them? Feeding and breeding rabbits in pits, advice from farmers.

Some farmers are switching to keeping rabbits in earthen pits. This method is as close as possible to the natural conditions of life, it has its own advantages and disadvantages. Let's take a closer look at this cultivation.

At least 15 individuals are inhabited in such pits. Experimenting with pregnant and old animals is not worth it; it is better to accustom young rabbits to this lifestyle. Remember that only small breeds are suitable for burrowing.

Conditions for keeping rabbits in the pit

Before digging a hole, determine the type of soil. Rabbits should not be kept on rocky ground. Pay attention to the groundwater level, because if it is too high, animals will dig holes upward, trying to escape from the water.

A basement or cellar is suitable for breeding. The burrows contain a large number of animals (several dozen); this method is not suitable for 6-10 individuals. Remember to clean up the manure regularly.

Method advantages

Raising animals in pits, like any other method, has its advantages. These include:

• very low cost of building a dwelling;
• it is problematic for rabbits to escape from holes, in contrast to cages;
• animals in such conditions reproduce quickly and actively;
• pits do not require frequent cleaning, since part of the waste is absorbed into the ground;
• with this method, the rabbits are constantly moving, which has a positive effect on the state of health;
• in conditions close to natural, animals become more united and easily drive away pests (mice and rats);
• pregnant females feel more confident when a person is not around.

Disadvantages of breeding rabbits in a pit

This method of growing has many opponents who point out all the disadvantages of burrowing. But remember that many disadvantages can be avoided if breeding animals responsibly. The disadvantages include the following points:

• if hygiene standards are not observed, animals quickly die in case of illness;
• cleaning the pit is difficult if you do not think it over when arranging a dwelling;
• often rabbits dig very deep holes in which they can hide for years;
• this method is not suitable for growing large breeds;
• with burrowing it is impossible to raise animals with good and soft fur, it will be hard and rare from the earth and constant fights.

How to raise rabbits in burrows

Rabbits feel comfortable in burrows both in winter and in summer. This happens because the temperature under the ground hardly changes and is 10-15 degrees, moreover, there are no drafts in the pits. The roof of the dwelling should not allow precipitation to pass through, pay special attention to its insulation.

Remember that adult rabbits must be caught to avoid crossbreeding. Instead of them, new animals are introduced into the pit. Vaccinate the first batch of animals.

Seat selection

The best type of soil for rabbits is clay. It almost does not crumble, so animals are happy to dig holes in it. Choose the highest place on the site so that underground water does not flood the pit and rabbit passages.

How to dig an underground dwelling

The optimal size of future housing for rabbits is 2m length, 2m width, 1-1.5m depth (it should not be less than a meter). Use any shape, but most often livestock breeders make square or rectangular pits.

The walls are made even, after which they are closed with slate or any other material. Leave one wall partly open to allow the rabbits to dig a hole. Mark the place for the entrance yourself (10-15 cm above the floor).

Lay the floor with a mesh with a fine mesh. Above the pit, a canopy must be made with a slope to the other side from the holes. Above, block the pit from other animals. Inside, arrange a feeding area with spacious feed containers, do not forget about drinkers.

Launching rabbits into the hole

After the pit is ready, you can run rabbits into it. When checking in, adhere to the following rules:

• only run young animals (3-5 months);
• do not populate a large number of rabbits at the same time, start with one dozen, gradually adding new tenants to them;
• if you have animals that have already lived in such conditions, the first thing to do is to launch them into a new pit;
• at first, animals are fed in the same mode in which they ate in cages.

Animal feeding in burrows

The process of feeding in pits is almost no different from cage keeping. Large roomy feeders are placed for rabbits, they are raised slightly above the floor and placed away from the burrow so that the food does not fall asleep with earth. Pour plenty of food so that the animals do not start fights due to lack of food.

Many farmers give the animals branches. They are tied into large brooms and hung on the pit walls. With cellular maintenance, branches are not given, as this is time-consuming. Food in the pits does not disappear, because everything that fell to the ground is quickly picked up by young rabbits.

Remember to install the drinkers next to the feeders. Critters need clean, fresh water, so change it regularly. Train animals to certain sounds (bell, squeaker) so that they come out of their burrows to the feeders at this signal.

While the rabbits are eating, examine the animals for nutritional status and diseases.

Catching a rabbit in a hole

Animals that live in pits eventually run wild and hide from people deep in holes. Inexperienced rabbit breeders have problems catching animals. In order to catch animals quickly and easily, follow these rules:

• teach animals to run out during feeding, for this use sound signals;
• constantly observe the feeding ritual with a certain sound so that the rabbits develop a reflex;
• make a plug at the entrance to the burrow to make catching easier and faster;
• wait for the rabbit to come out, close the hole and catch the animal with a net.

Breeding and breeding underground

In the pits, females bring offspring all year round. The burrows maintain a comfortable temperature, so the rabbits rarely get sick. Make sure that there is always water in the pit, since if there is a lack of it, females can eat their offspring.

Catch the males periodically and add new rabbits to the herd to avoid closely related crossings. Watch out for a female who has recently given birth. If she behaves restlessly and is losing weight quickly, most likely she destroyed her rabbits. Such animals are discarded.

Ksenia Napalkova, expert

In the pits, the bunnies quickly recover from childbirth and mate again. Often more than one male covers one female, such offspring are considered more viable. The cubs are fed not only by the mother, but also by the rest of the rabbits.

Detailed experience of breeding rabbits in pits

Some farmers make two holes to avoid overpopulation. The main livestock lives in one, and the young are planted in the second. The optimal age for relocation of rabbits is 3-4 months.

There should not be many breeding males in the herd. 2-3 rabbits are enough for a hundred heads. Every year they are caught, and in their place new males of a non-related line are planted. On the ears of uterine females, they make a mark with colored varnish so as not to accidentally plant them.

Video "How to raise rabbits in pits"

To get a better idea of ​​how rabbits are kept in pits, watch the video where farmers share their experiences.

Many novice farmers are worried about the safety of fruit trees. Experienced breeders claim that the roots do not suffer from the proximity of rabbits. Animals are not capable of undermining a house or other buildings, so you can place a hole near buildings.

Rabbit breeders advise that the first batch of animals be vaccinated against infections. Young animals should be drunk with antibiotics. Be present when feeding so that the animals get used and do not run away when you approach.

Pay special attention to the pit roof. Strengthen it well and make a slope so that in a downpour or snowfall, rain does not flood the rabbit holes. From the inside, the walls of the pit are lined with bricks or concreted.

They do this so that after a while the earth does not crumble.

Properly arranged drainage will help get rid of the unpleasant odor. Before settling animals, cover the bottom of the pit with a thick layer of sand, lay a fine mesh on top and cover it with straw. Change it as it gets dirty.

If rabbits don't burrow

In domestic rabbits, the natural instinct due to which animals dig holes often fades. Help your animals and make a cone-shaped depression in the wall, strengthen the edges with clay. The burrow should be dug at a slight incline.

Populate young rabbits in the pit, they dig more willingly than older individuals. Females, which are to bring offspring in the near future, are also intensively digging tunnels.

Breeding in pits does not require large financial and time costs, but this method has its drawbacks, which the farmer needs to be familiar with. In burrows, animals readily breed and get sick less.

Do you keep rabbits in pits? Describe your experience in the comments!

Ksenia Napalkova

Livestock technician. 3 years of experience.

About myself:

Breeding rabbits in pits: a detailed experience of raising and keeping animals, video - print version

Rabbit breeding for beginners: popular animal breeds, proper housing conditions, disease prevention and cage production.

Nowadays, this industry is gaining popularity both among experienced farmers who know everything about rabbit farming and among novice breeders. It allows you to get fur and dietary meat in a short time and with low financial costs. Before breeding rabbits, read the rules and conditions for keeping these animals, without this you will not get the desired result.

Choosing a breed of rabbits for breeding

Breeds of meat animals

The farms most often breed meat rabbits. The most popular are:

• Belgian giant or flanders;
• white giant;
• New Zealand white;
• Californian.

The first two breeds have a heavy backbone, so such rabbits mature for a long time (the female is ready to cover at 9-10 months), and they gain the necessary weight for slaughter only by 6 months. Flanders and white giants do not live in cages with mesh floors, which is inconvenient for livestock breeders.

New Zealand and California rabbits have become very popular. They are early maturing (the female can mate as early as 4.5 months) and quickly gain weight. Animals are sent for slaughter at 4 months. Rabbits of these breeds are small, but this is a plus, since feed costs for growing are reduced.

Fur and skin direction of rabbit breeding

Rabbits are raised not only for dietary meat, but also for high-quality skins and fur. Downy breeds include only two breeds - angora and white downy. Such rabbits are kept indoors, as plucked animals will easily catch cold. About 200 grams of down is obtained from one animal after 3 months. Gray down is considered more valuable.

There are noticeably more skins:

• gray and white giants;
• Soviet chinchilla;
• silver;
• black-brown;
• Viennese blue.

In this group, the chinchilla rabbits are the most popular.

How to raise rabbits

To grow these animals, you will need a cage (one or more, depending on the number of animals), a suitable room and food. Baby rabbits are bought from specialists on farms, if you go to the market, there is a risk of acquiring a sick animal.

These animals love cleanliness, so the cages are cleaned daily. Do not forget about proper nutrition, for rabbits this is very important. Monitor the health of your animals, vaccinate on time. Eliminate any drafts in the room where the rabbits live.

Breeding must be approached responsibly, if you cover the female very early or do not give her proper care, she will harm the offspring. Rabbits are provided with good food and clean water, special attention is paid to the arrangement of the cage.

Basic diet

It is very important to feed the animals correctly, the quality of the skin and meat depends on the nutrition. Rabbits' diet includes vitamins, minerals, proteins, fats and carbohydrates.

The basis of nutrition are:

• compound feed;
• juicy and roughage;
• mineral dressing;
• cereals;
• legumes.

In summer, the animals are given green food and twigs. The type of plants is periodically changed to maintain appetite, in addition, monotonous nutrition disturbs digestion. In winter, rabbits are fed boiled potatoes, carrots, beets (feed or sugar).

Concentrated feed is given to rabbits all year round. Juicy feed is fed in dosage: for an adult animal - up to 400 g per day, for young animals - up to 200 g. Grain is always present in the diet (watch out for its quality - animals may die from moldy grain).

Many livestock breeders feed rabbits with compound feed. It contains complete protein, minerals in the right amount, vitamins and antibiotics. Animals are fed hay every day, it is necessary for good digestion.

Ksenia Napalkova, expert

Rabbit keeping conditions

Temperature and lighting are very important in keeping rabbits. The optimum temperature in the room where the animals are raised is 13-17 degrees. Animals die at too high or low temperatures (below -30 and above +30), therefore, in extreme heat, protect rabbits from overheating, and in frost, do not allow hypothermia.

There are several ways of keeping:

• cellular;
• in sheds;
• aviary;
• in the pits.

Most farmers keep animals in cages. The floor and walls in them are made of wooden slats, and the ceiling and door are made of galvanized mesh. The cages are often arranged in several tiers. In winter they are transferred to a warm room, and in summer they are placed outside under a canopy. The optimal size of a cage with one section is 1.1 m in length, 0.6 m in width and height.

Rabbit content is gaining popularity. Sheds are cages installed in a row with equipment that makes caring for animals easier and faster. This method is used on farms where a large number of rabbits are kept (from a dozen and more).

Automatic drinkers and manure trays are installed in the sheds.

How to tell a female from a male

In order to determine the sex of the animal, turn the rabbit over onto its back. Press lightly on the genital area. In males, they are located closer to the anus than in females. The penis of adult rabbits is hidden in the prepuce and is exposed when pressed, a loop will be visible in rabbits.

In young males, the genital organ is tubular, and in females, an oblong slit can be seen, which is located next to the anus.

It is better to carry out the sex determination procedure for a novice rabbit breeder with an assistant in order to avoid misunderstandings and injuries.

What rabbits are sick with or vaccination of livestock

Animals die from two types of diseases:

• rabbit viral hemorrhagic disease (VGBD);
• myxomatosis.

VGBK affects young animals (starting from 1.5 months). With this disease, hemorrhages form in the liver and lungs, which leads to bleeding. The disease is transmitted through litter and feces. The incubation period lasts about 72 hours.

According to the main symptoms, livestock breeders quickly identify this disease:

• the animal loses its appetite;
• miscarriages occur;
• mucus appears from the nose;
• high body temperature (up to 41 degrees);
• the muscles of the paws contract convulsively before the death of the animal.

Sick rabbits are quarantined, and the corpses are sent to the laboratory to clarify the diagnosis. At autopsy, swollen lungs or other organs are visible, traces of internal bleeding are observed.

Myxomatosis affects the lower intestines, genitals, anus and mucous membranes of the head. The incubation period lasts 6-7 days. Animals become infected after contact with sick people or through blood-sucking insects. Here are the main symptoms of the disease:

• mucous membranes are covered with purulent crusts;
• transparent discharge appears from the nose and eyes;
• the infected areas are swollen and swollen;
• at the last stage of the disease, bumps appear throughout the body, which bother the rabbit;
• breathing becomes hoarse, a cough appears;
• nodules grow on the genitals and anus.

Treatment of these diseases rarely leads to the desired result, so it is very important to carry out prevention in the form of vaccination. Vaccinations are given only to healthy animals. The vaccine promotes the formation of antibodies that destroy the virus that has entered the body.

Rabbits are given complex vaccinations, there are currently three types of them:

• from VGBK and myxomatosis;
• from pasteurellosis and salmonellosis;
• from pasteurellosis and steptococcus.

Vaccinations are given according to a certain scheme, before the procedure, deworming of the entire livestock is carried out. Do not vaccinate pregnant and lactating females, as well as recently ill animals.

Where to get rabbit cages

Cages for keeping animals are purchased in markets or in specialized stores, but it is easier and cheaper to make a cage with your own hands at home. This will require material and drawings or diagrams with the required dimensions. There are many videos posted on the Internet with detailed instructions.

The advantages of homemade cages include easier cleaning, maintenance and lower cost. In addition, such housing is made in a size convenient for the farmer.

Cage drawings with dimensions

How to build a cage with your own hands

The first step is to buy building material. The cage is made of wood and galvanized mesh, sometimes thick plywood is used. Slate or other roofing material (except metal) is laid on the roof.

First of all, a frame is made of bars. The minimum size of the cage is 150 * 70 * 70 cm. The floor is made of wooden slats; a distance of 1.5 centimeters is made between them so that the rabbits do not get stuck with their paws and do not damage them. A pallet is installed under the floor, where waste will accumulate.

The walls are made deaf on three sides, the fourth is covered with galvanized mesh. The cage is divided into several compartments, between which partitions with holes are installed. Instead of a door, it is better to make a hinged cover, this will facilitate cleaning.

The cage should be made spacious so that the rabbits feel as comfortable as possible in it, this is important for their reproduction and growth. It is recommended to leave one dwelling free in order to plant the grown-up rabbits there.

Drinking bowls and feeders for rabbits

Drinking bowls and feeders must be placed in the animal's cage. Rabbits should have water all the time, especially in the heat, so organize the watering correctly. Three types of drinkers are popular: nipple, artisanal and automatic.

1. Nipple drinkers are placed in each cage. The main advantage of such a device is that the water always remains clean. But this drinker has a small volume, so the liquid level is checked throughout the day. Moreover, it is not suitable for the cold season.
2. Handicraft drinkers are ordinary water containers that are found on many farms. Animals often turn over and litter such bowls, so the water is constantly being changed.
3. Automatic drinkers are installed on large farms. Such a device is a large tank, from which pipes are diverted that supply water to each cage. As the water in the bowls decreases, the liquid refills them. If the tank is empty, a special valve will work and the tank will be filled with water again.

Feeders are also divided into three types: for compound feed, hay and vegetables. The sennik is installed on the front wall, animals easily get hay out of it through the grate. Compound feeds are poured into automatic feeders. From such a container, rabbits do not scatter food and at the same time have constant access to it. Vegetables are given to the animals in separate bowls, which are removed from the cage and washed immediately after eating.

With the right approach, rabbit breeding will be a good form of income, even for a novice farmer. Properly equip the home for the animals, provide them with high-quality food and carry out disease prevention on time.

Do you have rabbits on your farm? Share your experience of keeping these animals and leave your message in the comments!

Ksenia Napalkova

Livestock technician. 3 years of experience.

About myself: I will explain the basics of pet care.

Rabbit breeding for beginners: everything about breeding, do-it-yourself cages, video - print version

Since this method is one of the most controversial among rabbit breeders, the purpose of this article is to prove the advantage of keeping rabbits in a pit and, after reading it, you should not throw out the cages. Each method has its pros and cons, but for some rabbit breeders, this method is a real salvation.

This question is not the case if you keep rabbits in a pit. The pit content is a long forgotten old one, and at this time it finds more and more supporters. But let's talk about everything in order.

The most common way is when a 2 X 2 pit is prepared with a depth of 1 - 1.5 m and 6 - 8 rabbit females and one male are populated there. It's all. Further care comes down to timely feeding and catching livestock for sale.

The advantages of this method are obvious:

• almost zero construction cost;
• costs for the further maintenance of rabbits are significantly reduced;
• can be attributed to the positive side of this method and the conditions as close as possible to natural.

Rabbits will dig holes for themselves, in which they are not afraid of either winter frosts or summer heat, which is difficult to achieve with cage keeping. Rather, it is possible to achieve, but this requires additional costs and considerable.

When raising rabbits in a hole, animals significantly reduce the risk of contracting one of the most terrible viral diseases for these animals - maximatosis. After all, rabbits are infected with it from mosquitoes, and these bloodsuckers in the pit are practically absent.

But not everything is as good as described above.

With this method of content, there are both disadvantages and disadvantages that are quite significant.

• One of them is that it is almost impossible to keep pedigree records.
• It is not possible to organize rationed feeding depending on the physiological state and age.
• It is very difficult to achieve cleanliness in the pit, therefore, there is complete unsanitary conditions here.
• Accumulation of urine will inevitably cause high levels of ammonia, which in turn contributes to airway disease.
• It is impossible to vaccinate against the most common infectious diseases in the pit.

So is it really possible to put a fat cross on such a good way of keeping and breeding rabbits because of these disadvantages? No, all these problems are being solved in principle. Partially true, but they are still being resolved.

The first thing to do is to change the structure of the pit itself.

1. It needs to be made smaller and placed there less than the starting livestock. The depth of the pit should be about 1.1 m, and the pit itself should be somewhere around 1 X 1 m. These dimensions are quite enough for one male of the producer and three females with offspring.
2. The walls of the pit must be sheathed with some material, what? - no difference, you can use slate, you can concreted, you can use a slab, you can use bricks, etc. In one place of the sheathing, we leave a place for digging a burrow, and in order to avoid debris falling into the burrow, it must be done 10-12 cm above the floor.
3. The floor is covered with sand (50mm will be enough) and a mesh is laid on it. She, like the wall cladding, will prevent digging of unnecessary holes. The sand will absorb urine well, which in turn prevents the ammonia odor from spreading.
4. A canopy must be made over the pit, which will protect the pit from precipitation and direct sunlight.

   Moreover, the slope of the canopy should be opposite to the entrance to the hole.

5. A ventilation pipe should be placed above the hole, just above the hole, this will promote air circulation in it. We supply the pipe with a deflector.

Now about the conditions of detention

Immediately after the first roundabouts, and with such a (harem) content, there are practically no failures in the roundabouts (another plus), and they will pass amicably, when the rabbits begin to leave the burrow for independent feeding (at about one month of age), it is necessary to vaccinate. It will not be difficult to do this, you just need to block the only entrance to the hole and catch the rabbits during feeding.

When the rabbits are two months old, the young are planted in pre-prepared cages or an open-air cage for fattening. Periodic settling and sorting of young stock protects from closely related crossbreeding and crowding. We also ensure the repair of the main herd by dropping out.

These simple techniques negate all the main disadvantages of the pit keeping rabbits, and only advantages remain. Good luck to you.

In search of the cheapest and least labor-intensive way of keeping rabbits, rabbit breeders are trying various options for raising rabbits, including in a pit. In addition, it is believed that such content is closest to the natural habitat. In the article we will tell you about breeding rabbits in a pit, give recommendations on feeding, treating diseases.

Breeding rabbits in a pit, why is it better and is it really better

Breeding in a hole differs from other maintenance options in that the rabbit can independently dig the holes it needs in the ground. In addition, the lifestyle in the pit contributes to the physical activity of the animal.

A burrow of a wild European rabbit, which essentially lives in colonies and burrows 40 or more meters long. Burrows can have up to 8 exits to the surface.

Comparison of the pros and cons for three types of content:

Options	Nora	Aviary	Cell
Physical activity	There is	There is	No
Individual diet	No	No	There is
Skin quality	Unsuitable for use	Unsuitable for use	Good
Weight gain	Better cellular	Better cellular	Standard
Loss of young	Unknown	Average percentage	Average percentage
Possibility of examining an individual animal	Practically absent	It is not difficult	It is not difficult
Breeding	Impossibility of control; inbreeding	Unnecessary rabbits are easier to catch, but the likelihood of inbreeding and uncontrolled breeding remains	Full control

In theory, it is argued that rabbits will not escape from the pit, since they only dig horizontally or downward. For some reason, theorists stubbornly pass over in silence the fact that the main burrow of the rabbit settlement, where the dominant male and female live, has from 6 to 8 exits and goes 2 m deep. It is also not mentioned that the practitioners who breed rabbits in pits, burrows leading to the surface are periodically poured with concrete.

The theory of rabbits burrowing burrows exclusively downward or horizontally failed somewhere, since the main burrow of a rabbit colony has 6 - 8 exits upward. It is unlikely that rabbits have such accurate senses to start digging the next entrance from above and get exactly into the burrow tunnel.

Burrows where young individuals live are shallow and have up to 3 exits. Nor can it be said that the content in the pits fully corresponds to the natural life of the rabbit. In nature, bunnies, except for the dominant individual, do not crawl in the main burrow. They dig separate burrows near the family burrow.

The female rabbits dig shallow burrows for encirclement separately from the general colony, covering the entrance to the burrow with earth. These burrows have only one entrance and space for droppings.

What soils are suitable for building a pit

The soil is divided into:

• clay;
• loam;
• sandy loam;
• sand;
• lime;
• marshy;
• black soil;
• red earth;
• rocky (separate qualification for rabbits).

Any of these types has certain disadvantages and advantages. The rabbits themselves will prefer soil in which it is easy to dig a hole. But it is easy to dig a hole in the sand, but it crumbles easily, which is not suitable for breeders. Comparative characteristics of different types of soil:

Priming	pros	Minuses
Clay	The pit and holes will not collapse	Hard to dig; does not leak water *
Loam	The pit and holes will not collapse; water goes into the ground; easy to dig	In high water, it will let the spring waters into the rabbit holes
Sandy loam	Water easily goes into the ground; easy to dig	Close to collapse; in spring water will easily penetrate holes
Sand	Digging is very easy; water quickly goes into the ground	It falls asleep already in the process of digging a hole; easily passes water from top to bottom and bottom to top during spring floods
Chernozem	Easy to dig, holds burrow vaults well; good water permeability	Usually this layer is no more than 50 cm thick; there may be clay or sand underneath
Krasnozem	Partly analogous to chernozem with a lot of iron	Just like black earth, this layer is thin
Marshy	Easy to dig; holds vaults well due to the abundance of plant residues	As a rule, it is found in lowlands, flooded with rains and floods
Lime	It is easier to dig than clay, but more difficult than loam; holds the vault well	The disadvantages are almost the same as with clay, with the only difference: water can erode limestone soil
Rocky	From the point of view of the rabbit, there is no merit if the piles of stones do not lie on the surface; in this case, the rabbit does not dig holes, but hides in the stones	From the point of view of a person, there are also some disadvantages: usually stones are mixed with clay and the soil does not allow water to pass through well; if it is a solid rock mass, then flooding of the pit during rains is inevitable

* The property of clay not to let water through has a twofold characteristic. If the clay does not allow water to enter the hole, this is a plus. If the water gets into the hole and because of the clay cannot go into the ground, this is a minus, since the rabbits will die.

Tip # 1. Before starting the construction of a pit, wait until spring and find out how high the groundwater will rise during a flood.

How to build a rabbit breeding pit

For the device of the pit you will need:

• shovels, hoe, possibly other tools that can loosen or grab the soil;
• slate or other roofing material;
• metal grid;
• wooden slats for floor drainage;
• again slate or bricks for lining the walls of the pit.

Diagram of the pit device, protected from rain and predators. An earthen wall for the burrow was left on one side only.

Choosing a location and building a pit with step-by-step instructions

With the materials and tools available, you can start building the pit itself:

1. We choose a place on a hill that is not flooded during spring floods. It is desirable that the groundwater does not rise above 1.5 m from the surface of the earth;
2. We mark a square 2x2 m and dig a hole 1 m deep;
3. We cover the dug hole from the inside with brick or slate to prevent the walls from crumbling. We leave one wall uncoated;
4. In the unlined wall, we begin to dig a hole for the rabbits. We dig it out to the full length of a shovel or hoe. Later, the rabbits will dig. The slope of the workpiece must be down to prevent digging animals out of the pit;
5. After the design of the future burrow, we put a damper at the entrance. If the rabbits dig more holes later, they must also be equipped with dampers *;
6. We enclose the top of the pit with a net to prevent the penetration of predators (it will not help from rats);
7. We make a canopy over the pit of roofing material to protect the pit from rain;
8. At the bottom of the pit we make a grating for urine drainage;
9. We place a sufficient number of feeders. Feeders should be installed with the expectation of rabbits of different ages, that is, at different heights and different sizes. Read also the article: → "".
10. We install drinkers;
11. We launch the rabbits.

* Dampers are needed so that you do not have to smoke rabbits out of the hole with smoke bombs.

Another diagram of the pit device, "outside view". In this case, the pit is completely lined with slate. A hole was left in one of the walls for digging a hole. In such a hole, it is easier to control the entrance to the hole (one damper is enough).

Tip # 2. If in the spring it turned out that the groundwater came too close to the surface, then it makes no sense to build a hole. The essence of the pit is in its depth in the ground, and when draining it is necessary either to raise the level of the ground, or to lay drainage ditches. Both are too expensive for hobbyist rabbit breeding. In this case, it is better to build an aviary for the rabbits.

What breeds of rabbits are suitable for keeping in a pit

When choosing a breed of rabbits, they take into account not only their cold resistance, but also the region in which it is supposed to breed rabbits. Rabbits can hibernate in a pit in climatic zones up to the Central regions of Russia. To the north, you will have to catch rabbits and place them in cages indoors for the winter.

The choice will have to be made from the most popular breeds among fans, but they are not all suitable for life in pits. Large breeds are not very suitable for pits due to their weight, and some medium ones are too thermophilic. Comparative characteristics of rabbits when choosing a breed for breeding in a pit:

Breed	Average weight, kg	Thermophilicity	Adaptation to pit conditions
Gray giant	More than 5	Able to live in the Middle Lane, but not further north	Large sizes are not suitable for pit conditions
California	4,5	Heat-loving; poorly withstands winter cold	Can be kept in a pit during the warm season
Burgundy	4,5	Average adaptability to cold; does not tolerate heat	In summer, the pit is ideal for keeping; in winter, depending on the climate in a particular area
Rex	4	Cold-loving, the optimum temperature for keeping is + 15 ° С	Year-round living in the pit
Soviet chinchilla	More than 5	Relatively thermophilic	Due to its large size, it is not suitable for the pit
New Zealand	4,5	Thermophilic	In the summer it will take root well in a pit; for the winter you need to move to a warm room

The Rex rabbit overwinters well in the pit and will also say thank you, since these rabbits perfectly tolerate frosts down to -20 and very bad temperatures above +25 degrees.

Mistakes when keeping rabbits in a pit

1. Using smoke bombs when catching excess individuals... Poisonous substances have not yet had a positive effect on any organism.
2. Convincing Cell-Free Supporters That Vaccines Are Not Necessary... The position is no different from that of parents who refuse to vaccinate their children. Infection doesn't matter whether the rabbit lives in a cage, aviary, or pit. While the livestock lives in isolation, one might think that infections are not scary. But once an infected animal gets into the herd, the spread of infection will be facilitated by free contacts between rabbits.
3. Belief in the myth that rats in a pit are not dangerous for rabbits... Even if rabbits are really capable of driving away rats (and the number of newborn rabbits eaten by rats in a pit is impossible to establish), so rats are not dangerous by attacks on rabbits. You can not be afraid of rats as much as you like and regularly get infected from rats with leptospirosis, myxomatosis and rabies.

Questions about keeping rabbits in a pit

Question number 1. We've got rats in the rabbit pit, how can we get them out?

If you were able to see such a cautious nocturnal animal as a rat, then the population of rats in your pit significantly exceeds the population of rabbits. Or the rat you noticed was sick. In any case, in order to lime the rats you will have to:

1. Catch all the rabbits from the pit and place them in the cages;
2. To scatter poison with a delayed period of action in a pit, since with a fast-acting poison, rats quickly figure out what the matter is and stop eating the bait;
3. After a week, remove the found corpses of rats and scatter the poison again;
4. Repeat the 3rd action until the bait remains intact and stops pulling from the holes with the smell of falling;
5. Thoroughly clean the pit from the remains of the poison and hope that the rats did not drag anything into the holes;
6. Run the rabbits back into the hole.

Question number 2. How can a pit be disinfected?

Practically nothing by ordinary means. You can catch all the rabbits living in the hole, and then throw sulfur smoke bombs into the holes. What is disinfected is disinfected. If the smoke doesn't reach somewhere, then it's out of luck.

Question number 3. How and how to treat rabbits in a hole if they get sick?

Nothing and nothing. Before treatment, a sick rabbit must be caught. And the treatment should be carried out separately from the rest of the livestock, placing it in a cage, according to the scheme prescribed by the veterinarian. The only thing that can be done en masse in the pit is the deworming of animals. Anthelmintic in the form of a powder is poured into the feed and mixed. It is also not very reliable in the sense that someone will receive an insufficient dose, and someone an overdose, but better than nothing.

Question number 4. Do I need to put cages in the pit?

With the recommended pit area of ​​4 m², nothing else will fit in it, except for a couple of cells. Therefore, the cells in the pit are not needed. For rabbits standing on the lower steps of the hierarchy, queen cells can be placed, since the dominant individual can drive them out of the burrow.

Question number 5. How to feed rabbit bunnies in the pit?

Just like everyone else. It is impossible to establish individual rations in the pit for single rabbits, males and females.

Yamnoye rabbit breeding is a highly profitable business. This method of making a profit is suitable for both amateurs and professionals. There are practically no difficulties in keeping rodents. And the rabbits themselves in special pits are much more comfortable and freer than in cramped cages.

The main reason for the breeding of animals by the Yamny method is this is the saving of strength and financial resources... Breeding of animals can take place in a small area. For this, 2-6 sq. m. Thanks to the pit breeding, you can open your own business. Unlike breeding rabbits in cages, animals do not have muscle atrophy. Therefore, young animals have high reproductive indices.

It is best to start breeding with the pit method with young animals. Young individuals perfectly adapt to new conditions. Large breeds adapt worst of all. In rabbits of this subspecies, pregnancy is poor.

Seat Selection Basics

For a business to be highly profitable and bring good profits, the chosen place must be correctly selected. The first thing you should pay attention to is the peculiarity of the climate of the selected area. Breeding rabbits in too cold and rainy regions is not recommended. If frequent floods occur, such a place is not suitable for the pit method. Sandy soils cannot be used. They may have frequent shedding. This can lead to the death of animals. The use of clay soil is prohibited. Clay can get stuck in rabbit nails.

It is forbidden to breed rabbits in pits if the selected area is flooded in the spring.

Advantages

• Pit breeding of rodents is suitable for a small area. Space saving is the main advantage of this method. Breeding animals in cages requires a large area.
• There can be many more animals in the pit than in cramped conditions.
• This method is economical and low cost.
• Such breeding can be used as a highly profitable business.
• While in the pit, pets are protected from frost and heat. Rodents can live in aviaries all year round. They behave remarkably in any weather and season.
• females can pass without the intervention of the breeder. Rabbits believe that they are at large. Thanks to this, they have a natural natural instinct.
• Rabbits feed their young well. Therefore, the offspring grows strong and healthy.
• Ears can independently search for minerals from the soil.
• Thanks to the large space within the dug hole, rodents can run, jump and dig ditches.
• Rabbits can protect their offspring and themselves from wild rodents - rats, moles, pestles. When in danger, they can attack them. In peacetime - to get used to the neighborhood, gradually ceasing to be afraid of them.
• Keeping animals in pits greatly affects the number. With this method, the population is several times larger than the reproduction at home.
• Animals find beneficial vitamins and minerals in the soil. Therefore, costs and feed costs are minimal.

disadvantages

• Rabbit breeding involves the purchase of new animals. If, with the pit method, permanent animals are kept, this can be reduced to inbreeding.
• It will be very difficult to control and intervene in mating.
• Since rodents are kept in favorable conditions, close to natural ones, they practically do not communicate with humans. Therefore, after a certain period, they begin to be afraid of people and become too wild.
• Male skins cannot be used for dressing and sewing fur products. Keeping rodents in pits leads to aggression and protection of their offspring. The males prove their aggressiveness by daily fights.
• If a disease occurs, one individual has the likelihood of the disease passing to other animals.
• It is not possible to differentiate the diet between pregnant females, young and old individuals. Breeding by this method involves eating the same diet.
• Rabbits that previously lived at home can react negatively to a change of scenery. They will dream that they have been placed in the worst living conditions. This can lead to illness or death. Therefore, these rabbits must be accustomed to the aviary gradually.

How to make a pit

1. Rabbits can be kept in a small area. In 4 sq. m bred up to 200 individuals. Do not dig holes less than one meter deep. From such a height, animals can easily jump free.
2. Wooden posts can be driven into the pit. To make them stand stronger, the base is reinforced with cement or concrete. Such a frame can serve as the walls and roof of a building. It is most advantageous to make a sliding roof.
3. It is best to use a staircase as an entrance. The pit walls are lined with slate, boards, cement. This will prevent the soil from crumbling. Lining is also recommended.
4. The structure must be strong. Because of their natural instinct, animals sense danger. By minimizing the possibility of collapse, rabbits will feel at ease and will not dig holes in all possible directions.
5. It is recommended not to line one of the walls. It is in this direction that rabbits will dig holes. Thanks to this method, keeping animals will be simple and convenient.
6. You can dig holes yourself or leave it to the animals themselves. Use a shovel or pitchfork to mark the future entrance of the burrow. It should be 10-15 cm above the floor. The burrow must be at least half a meter wide. It is important that 2-3 eared ears fit in it.
7. The burrow must be with a downward slope. The optimum slope should be between 20-30 °. A rounded log with a diameter of 18-20 cm should be left in the pit. The free space should be tamped with dense soil with cement. Until the solution has frozen, the log is carefully removed. You should get a conical hole with a slight extension.
8. Rabbits can settle in a finished home or start expanding it on their own. The more pits are made, the higher the offspring.

To have a rough idea of ​​what a rabbit pit looks like, watch the video.

Home improvement

1. It is very difficult to understand whether there are enough vitamins, food and water for the eared ears. Therefore, feeders and drinkers must be installed against one of the pit walls. So it will be clear whether the food has been eaten and whether it is worth adding new food. Thanks to this arrangement, little rabbits can also eat water and food. Drinkers should always contain clean water. It is best to use spring or mineral water. Due to the pollution of precipitation, the use of rainwater is not recommended.
2. Drainage must be provided before placing rabbits in the pit. Dried straw, grass, and fine mesh work well. Timely litter must be replaced with a new one. If there is a large accumulation of manure, an unpleasant odor will be present. Under unfavorable living conditions, rabbits will stop breeding. Such a fact will badly affect the business. Therefore, it is recommended to use dry grass or sand as bedding.
3. To keep warm, you can use special mats, dry grass, straw, mulch. So that the heat does not go away in winter, a canopy is needed. Better to use a canopy that lets in sunlight and warm rays. In complete darkness, rabbits can go blind. Therefore, the home can be equipped with additional incandescent lamps. But in hot weather, animals need shading.
4. As protection from other animals, you can use current traps, ultrasound, poisoned food. It is important that baits intended for wild animals do not reach the rabbits themselves.
5. Also, the rabbits living in the pit need ventilation. For this, a pipe is mounted on the roof. One end is attached to the ceiling, the other is outside. In the absence of ventilation, animals can suffocate.

Settling rabbits

1. Young rabbits should be the first to take root in the pit. The young have a lot of strength, they are active and healthy. Therefore, digging holes for young individuals will not seem difficult.
2. After the young animals equip the dwelling, adult animals are added to them. If less nimble individuals are first launched into the pit, and then young animals, then adult rabbits will be a hindrance. This can lead to unnecessary aggression and fights.
3. Experienced females, who previously lived in cages, have lost their natural skills. They drive young animals out of the dug holes, taking their place. Therefore, it is best to start young animals that have experience in home improvement. Such rabbits will easily train and adapt their fellow tribesmen. In this case, animal breeding will require less effort.
4. From time to time, rabbits will have conflicts over the division of dug holes. This phenomenon is considered normal and does not require special attention.

Digging holes

Ears can dig ditches in one direction and scramble out. In most cases, females are engaged in digging. At the genetic level, they have a natural instinct for home improvement. Burrows can be up to 18-20 m long. They are horizontal, going down or up. Several methods can be applied to avoid unwanted animal escapes.:

1. Carefully monitor the height of the dug holes... In a timely manner, the slope of burrows must be redirected downward.
2. So that the rabbits don't get out - the fence can be concreted... When digging deep holes, rabbits will collide with a solid wall, and will not be able to get out into the wild.
3. Breeding rodents in pits provides for fencing. You can enclose the corral with a solid fence... When the rabbit gets out of the pen, he will be on the territory fenced off. It can be easily seen and returned back to the dwelling. But do not forget that animals can also be behind the fence. Therefore, timely inspections of burrows are still necessary.
4. Minks can be restricted with special valves.

Sometimes animals refuse to dig holes. Such a phenomenon can ruin a business. Therefore, it is necessary to push the rabbits to this work ourselves. Breeding animals older than one year is also not recommended. Adults may lack these skills. In most cases, they are already lost at the genetic level.

How to catch

With long-term residence of rabbits in pits, it can run wild... Wild rabbits to catch very difficult... They do not fall into the hands. At the first danger, they can hide in narrow burrows. Therefore, it is necessary to use special traps that are set at the entrance to the burrow. Can be used valves and close them before fishing... If the eared ears are not held in hand, they are caught net.

You should not get hung up on the fights of the eared people. If one of the rabbits is too pugnacious, they implement it first.

Tribe and breeding

It is strictly forbidden to leave without supervision the breeding of eared ears in the pits. Youngsters should not be allowed to happen to each other... This can lead to various diseases, mutation, extinction and inbreeding. Therefore, the mother and father of the offspring must be realized first, as soon as the babies reach puberty. After a while, individuals can become smaller and more wild. To minimize uncontrolled related mating, breeders are advised to change males as often as possible. It is also necessary to reject females with defects in appearance. The use of females with a low performance index is not recommended.

Breeding in a pit

Living in pits, rabbits think they are in the wild. Therefore, problems with reproduction do not occur. Trenches are frequent and easy. No human intervention required... In most cases, the offspring will grow up strong and healthy. But if a female, who is preparing for childbirth, has greatly lost weight and begins to drag grass, rip out the fluff, then in this case there is a possibility eating their cubs... Therefore, immediately after the trench, the babies must be taken away from the mother. It is best for another rabbit to accept them and leave.

Pit with access to the aviary

To keep the rabbits healthy - they outdoor walks are necessary... To do this, you can make a hole that will go out onto a fenced area. A lawn must grow on the territory. A special door with a latch is made at the hole. At night, the door is closed so that the rabbits can sleep in their burrows.

Diseases

• Rabbits can go blind if there is a lack of light.... To avoid illness, the roof of the building must let in the sun's rays. In winter, the building is illuminated with incandescent lamps.
• Invasive diseases can occur due to improper nutrition.... Therefore, animal breeding requires some effort. Rabbits should always have clean drinking water and good food.
• Due to frequent fights, scratches, bruises and abrasions may appear on the skin.
• Infectious diseases can be caused by bites from wild animals. Therefore, dwellings are enclosed with slate, and wild animals, as far as possible, are chased away.

The constant interaction of man with animals has made them not only tame, but also weak. Modern breeds of domestic bunnies do not react well even to sudden changes in temperature and moisture, not to mention life on earth without insulation or other inconveniences. The animal's immunity approaches zero. In order to restore the balance of natural forces, improve the health of animals, it is necessary to return them to the bosom of nature. How? Just dig a big hole for them and send them to where they will live like at home - into holes. Let's consider the advantages of this method in more detail.

1. High reproduction rate. You will not have time to blink an eye, as with 10-20 individuals you will get a huge herd of animals. Why are there so many of them in Australian forests and deserts? Chaotic mating has its drawbacks and needs to be monitored, but a large offspring is guaranteed to you.
2. Excellent immunity. Movement is a fulfilling life for any animal. If they constantly run, jump, participate in battles among themselves, it will benefit them. They will not be afraid of any diseases, especially if periodically given balanced feed (at least 60% greens). It is impossible to feed exclusively with flour feed - there will be indigestion.
3. Low cost of "housing". It will take a lot of money, time and effort to make metal cages, and you can dig one big hole in 1 day, without spending a penny. You can cover the hole with any boards, even those that you were going to throw away - you should not be afraid that your hares will gnaw a hole and flee. The land will not go further.
4. Cleaning is carried out 5-10 times less often than in cages, since the living space is very large. Moreover, some of the feces will be absorbed into the soil, you will not have to remove them at all. Rabbits are relatively clean and will only shit in front of the mink, not in it. It will be enough to collect "wealth" in the main room, there is no need to climb into the tunnels.
5. The animals are grouped into "brigades", they give a worthy rebuff to their natural enemies - rats. There is no reason for concern if rodents are in the territory - they will not stick there.
6. The female leads the rabbits painlessly, they remain healthy and alive, since a specially made “nest” for them will provide maximum safety - there is no need to expose the female.

It should be remembered that the first days of rabbits in the pit are in a draft and in the cold, so it is recommended to acclimate too weak European breeds. Plant them first for a few days there, then return to their old, "greenhouse" life. Do this 5 times, then increase the duration of their stay there. Within a month, they will easily get used to the coolness and develop immunity.

Disadvantages of "underground" life

This method is not universal and has some drawbacks, some of which are very large. This is primarily due to the closed nature of the room, which cannot be ventilated and disinfected. Let's consider the "cons" in more detail.

1. There is a high risk of extinction of all offspring in case of infection with an infectious disease. With prolonged maintenance of rabbits in pits (from 12 months), many infections develop. It is recommended to disinfect burrows and the entire perimeter at least 2 times a year - in spring and summer.
2. If you do not think over the design of the room in advance, it will be very difficult to clean the pit, sometimes impossible. You need to "map out" the places in which the rabbits will dig "dens" for themselves.
3. The rabbits are so harsh that can dig tunnels 15-20 meters long and you can look for them for years... Do not be surprised if next to three-month-old animals one per 8-10 kg appears - it may be a three-year old-timer. Shoot him quick before he's gone for another couple of years!
4. Growing on fur coats will not work - the animal's fur will be tough, rare. They constantly participate in recreational activities (squabble among themselves), rub their sides against the earthen walls. Giant breeds and some European species also cannot be grown - they do not dig the ground, but simply sit in a square room.

Raising rabbits in pits and how to properly carry it out

Do you think that rabbits will have to dig a hole, and all the farmer needs to do is release wild animals to meet their natural instincts? Not guessing. You will have to dig with your own hands, at least at first, to show the domestic animals how to do it. You can even plant them in a cage next to you so that they can see that the earth can be dug, but it turns out quickly enough. Even if they don't learn, it will be a lot of fun! Let's move on to step-by-step instructions.

Step 1 Choosing the right place.

First of all, pay attention to the elevation of the site - it should not be below the water level, as well as areas where groundwater is too high. Note that the animals will deepen their holes. The water must be at least 5 meters from the surface. If possible, it is best to construct a "rabbit" on clay, because it crumbles much less... Digging tunnels in it will provide a lot of fun for your pets.

Step 2 Dig a hole.

3x3x2 meters will be enough, where 2 meters is the depth. Remember that it should be as flat as possible, without any terraces or other formations. Therefore, we take and “we knock off the edges of the earth at an angle of 90 (or even less) degrees. Animals can escape if you give them something to catch with their claws. To make it a little easier for them to get used to the new environment, you can put 15-20 centimeters of straw on the bottom.

Step 3 We make blanks for new burrows.

Hares are stupid animals, therefore, in order for them to see where it is necessary to dig a burrow, they need to be shown where and how to do it. We take a shovel and make indentations in different directions at the bottom of the walls. You should not try hard, it will be enough to make a niche for 20-30 liters, then the rabbits will start hiding there. They will tear it apart further, expand the useful square meters of their housing.

Step 4 We release animals into natural conditions.

Our pit is designed for the free residence of 100 individuals. To avoid conflicts at once, you can run them in stages. For example, throw 20-30 rabbits there, wait a couple of days until they become "miners", then start new tenants to join them in order to join the earthworks. If everyone is on strike, refuses to dig, take them to the meat market, since there will be no use out of them. Some species have become highly adapted to the conditions of life in captivity, they may completely lack the instincts to dig the soil. It happens rarely, fortunately.

Follow-up care consists of feeding 1-2 times a day, cleaning the main pit and capturing adults. You don't have to do anything else - they will live on their own.

If you are thinking of doing this business seriously, then you should read a few tips from the professionals. They are for anyone who wants to keep rabbits in the hole for more than 1 season. Let's take a closer look.

1. It is necessary to solder with antibiotics before landing in the pit, and also to pierce all females to avoid spreading the infection among the future young.
2. Immediately teach the animals that the owner gives food, feed them in the middle of the room, be present at the meal at least sometimes. If this is not done, you will have serious problems when you want a hat or meat - you will not be able to catch game, you will chase them endlessly.
3. Make a good roof over the main pit as it can flood in heavy rain and some offspring may drown in burrows below floor level. As a rule, animals dig them up a little in case of rain - this is a natural instinct, but it can let down domestic rabbits.
4. Concrete or brick a large area of ​​the main room, since after a few months it will begin to crumble, you will have to carry out repair work. This will give you a lot of inconvenience. Walls made of wood can be tied up. We take, drill a 16 mm hole, drive a large anchor with good plastic spacers. This will be enough for clay soil. The main thing is to put a large washer so that it does not push through the wooden boards.

Done right, your rabbits won't bother you at all. You will come to them 1 time in 2-3 days to pour food into the feeder in the middle of the room or toss greenery on them. Nothing else is required.

As already mentioned, when using the pit rearing method, animals are kept exclusively in the pit. At the same time, a hole of 2x2 m is quietly enough for 100 pieces. eared. For large requests, we make other pits or make a larger initial one in advance. For the method, a pit with an approximate depth of 1 m is perfect. The depth depends on the climatic zone and the slope of the soil.

Also, a lot depends on the soil itself. You can not breed eared using this method on rocky soils or where there is a high level of surface water. In the first, there will be not life, but sheer torment. In the second, the animals will dig up passages to escape from the water and will certainly run away. Then it is not recommended to use the method in areas that are often susceptible to floods and other natural disasters.

As the experience of rabbit breeders has shown, for the pit method, it is better to fence off the three walls of the recess with something (concrete, mesh, slate, etc.). The fourth is also fenced off, but a hole remains in it, which will serve as an entrance to the holes. Through one hole, it is much easier to control the flow of animals when you need to inspect or capture them. It is impractical to make more than one such hole. Then it should be large enough to accommodate 2-3 adults at the same time.

Arrangement of a rabbit pit

You can keep and grow eared ears in a hole on any floor. The main thing is that there is no stench and it is easy to clean. You can get rid of an unpleasant smell with the help of various simple tricks. The simplest and most effective is a 20 cm sand pillow, on top of which a mesh with a small mesh is laid. Then the urine will seep through the sand into the soil and be completely absorbed by it. The second method of odor control is ventilation.

What to choose is up to you, based on your requests and capabilities. Feeders and drinkers are mixed directly in the pit. They should be large enough to feed and water a large number of rabbits. They are placed anywhere, but not high, since animals of different age categories will feed from them.

It is advisable to enclose the pit from above and protect it from water ingress. A roof or some kind of it must be made over the pit. When using this method, rabbits almost do not need sunlight, but still, it is better that it falls into the hole.

Is the winter content different from the summer one?

Animals are in the pits in the same way in summer and winter. The thing is that it is not hot at depth in summer, and not cold in winter. Therefore, it turns out that the temperature is always almost the same and is in the range of 10-15 degrees Celsius. This helps the eared to avoid unnecessary stress and most diseases. Also, this method implies a complete absence of drafts.

At the same time, females give birth at home in winter as well as in summer. If frosts crackle in the yard over 30 degrees, then there is no need to worry. The more rabbits you have in the pit, the better they will warm themselves with their own breath. However, with long frosty and snowy winters, it is better not to use this method. There will be constant problems with melt water during the spring thaws.

Tangible benefits

• Saving space when keeping large livestock.
• The closest approach to natural habitat.
• Females give birth much better and more calmly, and their maternal instinct is much better developed than with cell rearing.
• Saving money and time for care and maintenance itself.
• The immunity and survival rate of rabbits is significantly increased. Some breeders don't even vaccinate their pets.
• Breeding animals in pits, that is, their reproduction, is many times faster.
• With a large number of rabbits, they themselves fight with rats.

Main disadvantages

• The main disadvantage is inbreeding or related mating. Over time, it will lead to degeneration. However, today this issue is easily resolved.
• Inability to control mating. There are also two sides of the coin here. On the one hand, in a livestock of 100 or more individuals, it is unrealistic to control mating. On the other hand, if you start control immediately, and not wait until the livestock significantly increases, then it is quite possible to achieve success.
• Animals are raised by this method exclusively for meat. The thing is that the skins are usually dirty and scratched.
• Feral of animals over time. Yes, indeed, if rabbits run wild, then it will be very difficult to catch them. There will also be difficulties in feeding and examining.
• Impossibility of disease control and routine vaccination.

We build ourselves

Making a rabbit hole at home is easy and simple. But if you have at your disposal an unnecessary basement or other premises deepened by at least a meter and a half, then you will not have to dig a separate hole. You just need to figure out how to clean up the excrement, make a hole in one of the walls and arrange the troughs and drinkers. That's all, you can launch the eared ears. And about what needs to be done in the absence of such a room, read on.

Instructions

Choosing a place for the pit. It should be slightly shaded. If some kind of control over reproduction is planned, then it is better to dig two holes at once. In one there will be females selected for brood, their babies and a male-producer, in the other - the rest of the individuals. The distance between the pits should be more than 20 m. Also remember that trees, houses without basements, wells and even a toilet will not interfere with your pets. But the place must be located on a hill so that the water does not flood and there is no near surface groundwater.

Photo gallery

Video "How the eared are contained in the pits"

In the next plot, we propose to see what a homemade rabbit pit looks like. An experienced rabbit breeder will tell and show you where his feeders and drinkers are, where the eared ears come from and how they live.