The kitchen table is the same age as the kitchen itself. Probably even older than her: in parking lots and settlements primitive people large flat stones were found near the hearths, which served as cutting, serving and dining tables; they contained remains of food and food. In this article we will see how to do kitchen table with your own hands completely at home. This will not only allow you to save a certain amount (in general, not ruinous), but will also provide an opportunity to acquire initial carpentry skills, which may turn out to be much more significant in the future. The most common types of furniture joints are used in kitchen tables, but its design forgives rather serious flaws in work. There are also great-looking types of kitchen tables, for the manufacture of which it is enough to be able to saw off a piece of board and tighten a screw.

A table in the kitchen also provides considerable opportunities for creative self-expression: much less skill is needed here than imagination, and failure will not ruin the entire interior. The samples of original kitchen tables in the photo below are quite accessible for making with your own hands, but first you need to get a feel for the design and material at a basic level, which is what we will try to help the reader with.

You can make a table for the kitchen at least 15th different ways , including artistic forging and casting from homemade artificial marble. However, firstly, we will limit ourselves to kitchen tables made of wood, as a material that allows us to obtain the desired result with the least amount of labor, money and time.

Secondly, we will deal with tables with rectangular or rounded corners. A round table requires 1.6-2.2 times more usable space than a rectangular table for the same number of eaters. Moreover, the first meaning refers to the case when the hostess is deprived of a free approach to him and must be served over the shoulder of the person sitting. This already falls into the category of parodies of the rules of good manners. Like, how should you tilt the plate when finishing the soup: towards you or away from you? Answer: depending on what you want to pour on yourself or the tablecloth. In addition, a round table in a small kitchen is stronger than a rectangular table of the same capacity, wedged into the so-called. functionality triangle, see below.

Dimensions and ergonomics

The height of the kitchen table is normal, 700-780 mm, counting from the floor to the top surface of the tabletop. For people of average height, the optimal table height is 750-760 mm. But with the dimensions of the kitchen table in plan, the situation is more complicated.

The essence is in the same triangle of functionality: refrigerator-sink-stove. Ideally, it should be rectangular isosceles with legs of 1.2-1.6 m. However, the ergonomics of the kitchen is spoiled much more than a slight deviation from these proportions by wedging the dining area into the hypotenuse. Simply: the hostess bent over the sink or stove and pressed her seductive forms against her husband’s cheek just when he brought the spoon to his mouth. Therefore, it is advisable to make the table in the kitchen, especially of economical layouts, smaller, as long as it is comfortable for the eaters.

The minimum acceptable dimensions of a family kitchen table in plan are considered to be 600x900 mm. For single people, let's say a table is 450x750 mm, like in railway cars. In this case, in a “micro-kitchen” or kitchen area of ​​a small-sized one-room apartment, it is also permissible to make it a wall-mounted folding one, see below. But optimal sizes kitchen table tops are considered (650-800) x (1100-1400) mm, depending on the available usable area and the build of the users.

Which one to do

Traditional kitchen table - on the base, pos. 1 in Fig. The underframe is the supporting frame of their boards placed on edge - the tsar. The drawers can be tightly fastened to the table legs, and the tabletop can be placed loosely on them; those. its fastenings only prevent horizontal displacement. Such a table kitchen sizes It’s simpler in design and stronger, but it’s more difficult to bring in/take out, especially if the passage to the kitchen is narrow. The second option is that the drawers are tightly fastened to the tabletop, and the legs are detachable. In this case, the tabletop needs to be durable and not made of anything suitable for use. case, the material, and the design is more complicated. But there are no problems with bringing in/out. Both of these options for a classic kitchen table will be discussed in more detail below.

The table on the base can also be artistically designed, pos. 2. Making an artistic kitchen table is not as difficult as it might seem. The basis of its design - turned shaped legs - can be easily obtained from commercially available railing balusters (see below). For a novice craftsman who knows how to use a jigsaw, a figured sawed-off drawer does not pose a problem. What remains is a molding - a shaped chamfer on the lower edges of the drawers. For this, you can rent a manual milling machine with a cutter of the profile you like; with it, the work itself on setting up the molding takes less than an hour, plus 10-15 minutes of training on some kind of trim.

No less common in kitchens are tables of beam construction, pos. 3. Even in their simplest design (see 2 options below) they are more attractive than tables with a base. However, to complete them in a high-end design (item 4) requires well-equipped carpentry and solid manufacturing skills. Beam tables require more material, but their undeniable advantage is that they can be made completely collapsible without tools (also see below).

Tables with a load-bearing tabletop without an underframe (item 5) are also very often found in kitchens. In factory version this is perhaps the most cheap look good quality kitchen tables. A set of legs for such a table + a postforming tabletop (see below) will cost about 2,500 rubles, and assembly will take at most half an evening. But when making such a table completely independently, a beginner will encounter some significant nuances, see below.

Tables-books, they are also tables-pedestals, pos. 6, initially created a sensation due to its compactness when folded and the ability to be used in a half-fold version, but then there was a period of some disappointment. Firstly, no matter how you sit at such a table, your legs feel uncomfortable. Secondly, in the first samples, the rotary support lock was the simplest, consisting of a pair of 50x20 bars, attached with a gap equal to the thickness of the support to the underside of the tabletop. The outer faces of the bars were often removed with a wedge so that the support would not cling to them when unfolding the table. However, if you accidentally pry the tabletop with your knee, the lock is immediately released. Therefore, such tables could not do without a hodgepodge of cutlets and mashed potatoes on the trousers and the floor, and a reliable and easy-to-use mechanical lock turned out to be very complex and expensive. Nevertheless, both amateur craftsmen and serious manufacturers are improving this, in principle, very promising design, which will be the subject of a special section in this publication.

Wall-mounted folding tables (item 7) are rarely found in very tiny kitchenettes. Most often - among busy bachelors who are accustomed to doing everything while standing, even sleeping on the carpet in front of their bosses, because... have all the disadvantages of book-tables with virtually no room for improvement. Serving tables(pos. 8) are used much more often on the farm, but this is a separate class of furniture with its own specific qualities and manufacturing technology, so here we will limit ourselves to just mentioning them.

Technological subtleties and innovations

The kitchen table, firstly, is made from wood species or materials that are little or not subject to shrinkage when dried: oak, hornbeam, wenge, laminated chipboard, MDF. Ordinary industrial wood in a kitchen atmosphere with its fluctuations in temperature, humidity and organic vapors in the air begins to warp and crack after 5-7 years, even if impregnated and varnished. On the other hand, the dimensions of the kitchen table are small. This leads to some features of its manufacture, which ultimately make it possible to simplify the work.

Tabletop

This is the main detail of any table. For homemade table In the kitchen, the best option is to buy a ready-made countertop made of postforming; they are available in a wide range of colors, textures and sizes. Postforming is a profiled laminated chipboard with rounded edges, finished to look like wood or other material. The advantages of postforming in relation to a kitchen table are as follows:

Postforming is good technologically for simplicity and speed of work. But countertops made from boards, the so-called, look much more solid. solid wood or furniture panels. Joining boards into an array is quite delicate and painstaking work; for this purpose, special devices are used - clamps. If you want to try your hand at making furniture from solid wood, we offer a selection of videos:

How to assemble a furniture panel with your own hands:

How to make a panel top for a kitchen table:

How to make a tabletop from wood end cuts:

In the last video, the material is junk, but you can achieve the look - cool oligarchs will salivate.

Dowels, confirmations and dowels

Traditionally, wooden furniture is assembled on dowels. The dowel connection is invisible and cheap; Just in case, let us remind you what it is and how it is done, see fig. For connection wooden parts wooden dowels are used, which dry out along with the connected parts; The laminated chipboard, which practically does not dry out, is connected with plastic dowels. Corner plastic dowels are rarely used, because... often break. Connections with wooden dowels are usually glued.

It is often difficult for novice craftsmen to achieve accurate markings for the dowel connection. Tricks, such as marking with bitten nails (item 4 in the figure), do not always help, and it is impossible to remake an incorrectly marked dowel connection; both parts go to waste. Therefore, it is better for beginners to assemble their first products using Euro-furniture screws - confirmed ones. This is more expensive, but does not require special skills, because... the confirmation hole in both parts, compressed with a clamp, is drilled in one go, see fig.

Parts made of laminated chipboard or dense thin-layer wood, connected with confirmats, last for many years. All the designs described below can be assembled both on dowels and on confirmations. However, in the latter case, the following rules must be observed:

• Use furniture grades for wood, not plumbing grades for plastic. They differ at first glance: furniture slots have a hexagon slot, and plumbing slots have a Phillips screwdriver.
• The diameter of the body of the confirmat without thread when attached to the end should be no more than 1/5-1/3 (as an extreme case) of the thickness of the attached part.
• The height of the confirmation neck should correspond to the thickness of the main part.
• The penetration of the threaded part of the confirmat into the attached part must be at least 5-6 full diameters of the confirmat.
• Hole ( blind hole) for confirmation is drilled to its full length with the head.
• Use only a twist drill for wood.
• The main drill must be inserted into a mandrel that exactly matches its diameter and screw size.
• Drill holes for confirmations with a main drill of a diameter equal to the diameter of the confirmation by thread.

In practice, it is not difficult for even a perfect “teapot” to fulfill these conditions:

1. Based on the thickness of the part, we determine the diameter of the body of the confirmat without thread;
2. There is a lot of information on confirmatories on the Internet, from which you can, knowing the diameter of the screw body, the thickness of the main part and the drilling depth, determine the required standard size. It is better to immediately open pictures for the request “furniture screw (or confirmation) drawings dimensions”;
3. We are looking for a retail outlet where the seller, when asked to show furniture confirmations, shows them exactly;
4. We say: “I need so many of such and such a standard size and a drill with a mandrel for them.” They may offer a solid drill just for this confirmation, it will be cheaper.

And a little more about dowels. It is best to place a detachable (freely applied) tabletop of a classic kitchen table on them. Incl. and for such purposes, plastic dowels with a round head or dowels with a head and different types of corrugation on the long recessed and short protruding parts are produced, see fig. on right. Thick tabletops are attached first, approx. from 20 mm; the second ones are thinner.

Various tables

Classic

Classic tables on the underframe along with the legs (item 1 in the figure) are traditionally connected (assembled) using tongue-and-groove joints, which is quite complex and labor-intensive. Modern instrument– a drill with a twist drill for wood and a screwdriver – in combination with legs, the section of the heads of which is not less than 60x60 mm (for balusters the heads are usually from 100x100 mm), allows for a kitchen table with plan dimensions of up to approx. 750x1500 mm can be made by connecting with wood screws at an angle, pos. 3. In any case, the outer sides of the drawers should be 1.5 cm away from the outer surfaces of the heads of the legs, this is necessary for overall strength. The minimum permissible height of the kitchen table drawers is 120 mm; thickness – 30 mm.

It is highly advisable to reinforce the connection with oblique screws with diagonal ties in the corners (item 4, above) from the same board as the drawers. If the tabletop is not intended to be removed unless absolutely necessary, then the labor-intensive installation of it on dowels can be abandoned. Then, at the corners of the finished supporting frame, scraps of the same board - crackers - are cut into the drawers and the tabletop is attached to them from the bottom with self-tapping screws, pos. 4 below.

Tabletop classic table with detachable legs should be at least 24 mm thick (chipboard, plywood) or 30 mm thick (solid wood). Countertops made from other materials, e.g. artificial stone, suitable for tables on the underframe along with the legs, are not applicable here. Due to the large difference in thermal expansion modules between them and wood, the table will soon become loose.

Next, the drawers are attached to the tabletop with long confirmations right through the end, on the left in the figure, with sizing with wood glue or PVA. It is difficult to achieve accurate assembly using ordinary wood screws, because... they are without a neck to keep the joint from moving.

The next point is that jibs in the corners (also in the figure) are required, wooden mortise ones or ready-made steel overhead ones. The legs at the corners are attached in the usual ways, on the right in Fig.

Desk drawer

A drawer is a classic structural module of a classic kitchen table. The guides for the table drawer are the same as for the drawers of the bedside table, chest of drawers, and closet. Since a large weight load is not expected in this case, and the smooth movement of the drawer and the ability to fully extend it are not of great importance, you can use inexpensive roller guides on which the keyboard boards of computer desks run.

The structure of a furniture box is shown on the left in Fig. It is not necessary to assemble its tray the old fashioned way on a box tenon (on the right in the figure); you can use self-tapping screws into the ends of the boards. The thickness of the boards for the drawer sides is 12-20 mm. The plywood bottom is often fastened with a furniture stapler, but this is not entirely reliable. It is better to attach it with self-tapping screws through the cranial bars along the contour of the bottom. The front of the drawer can overlap the front side of the table or fit flush into it, it doesn’t matter.

To install the drawer in the table, an opening is cut out in the longitudinal front drawer according to the cross-sectional dimensions of the drawer tray, plus allowances on the sides for the guides (indicated in the specifications for them), plus another 3 mm along the contour. Then the side support boards are installed to secure the guides. They are attached to the longitudinal frames from the inside using backing bars. There is no need to fasten it to the tabletop; it will become loose. Next, assemble the box, attach it to it and to support boards resp. the guide parts push the drawer into place, that's all.

Quite simple

A completely simple but good-looking kitchen table with a classic look can be made on a supporting frame made of boards, see fig. on right. Its length, if the drawer section is at least 120x20 mm, can be increased to 1100 mm. Tabletop – any weight up to 15 kg. The angle of inclination of the legs from the vertical is 15-20 degrees, this is one fundamental point in this design. The second is transverse ties made of 50x15 timber, they give the entire structure the necessary rigidity. So, although this table looks classic, in fact it is already a beam table.

Beam

Drawings of a pair of kitchen tables with a beam structure are given in Fig. Above - completely collapsible without tools. The tabletop is structurally any, placed on dowels, although the style of this table (rustic) is fully consistent only with a tabletop made of solid wood. An option for attaching it from the bottom without dowels to cranial bars shown in the inset center right.

In this product, a beginner may find the bottom bandage (longitudinal tie) with a beveled through groove for the wedge to be a stumbling block. In fact, everything is very simple: the bottom bandage is assembled with glue from 3 layers of 10 mm plywood or boards. How to make beamed kitchen tables of this type, you can watch the following video:

Video: DIY table by components

The table, drawings of which are shown below, has 2 features. First, all material is boards with a width of 120 mm, timber is not used. The second is that only a tray is provided for the tabletop, and it can be made of glass, plywood with a mosaic of tiles or its fragments, etc. The gap between the board of the tabletop and the frame of the tray is prone to clogging, but removing the tabletop for cleaning is also easy. So whether it’s rustic or modern, whether it’s a kitchen table, boudoir or coffee table, you decide for yourself.

Without table support

Factory-made kitchen tables without bases are usually produced with postforming countertops, pos. 1 in Fig. Those who want to make something similar on their own for a wooden tabletop will encounter the following tricks.

First, a table stand is still needed, because wooden beam from 50x50, pos. 2. The fact is that mechanical stress in boards always flows to the corners, where they are distributed very unevenly. But the wood under all 3 fastening points of the leg frame must be tensioned approximately equally, otherwise the fastening will loosen on its own. Timber piping expands the fan of stress in a given place to an acceptable value, but it is impossible to replace continuous piping with corner pads; they will be of no use.

The second is the material of the countertop. Standard threaded sockets for mounting leg frames (item 3) are designed for laminated chipboard or dense, fine-grained wood. If the tabletop is made of pine, etc. layered rather soft wood, then the nests can, having torn the layers, crawl back out already during the installation of the clips. And the probability that this will happen when someone accidentally pushes the table is close to 100%

And the third is the leg clips themselves. In cheap sets of parts for tables without tabletops from “alternative” manufacturers, they are most often made of silumin, pos. 4. And silumin, as you know, is very, very fragile. In general, if you like such tables, it will be easier to buy a ready-made one with a guarantee. Most likely, and cheaper than assembling a kit for self-assembly at retail.

Books and Cheburashkas

The disadvantages of the table-book of the original design (see figure on the right) have already been mentioned above. In Fig. Below is a drawing of the design of a table-book (conventionally, only one rotary support is shown without the wings of the tabletop), which eliminates them in an amateurish, but effective manner. Simply, the width of the rotary support is reduced by more than half compared to the wing span of the tabletop (350 and 720 mm, respectively). Now the support rotates 90 degrees, so you can sit comfortably as you wish. The support, located in the working position along the longitudinal axis of the tabletop, holds it even better than an oblique one, and in order to lift the tabletop until the upper support bar comes out of the simplest clamp (see above), you need to raise your knees so that it will be very uncomfortable for yourself. Overall stability is ensured by the legs of the cabinet section, which must be made as long as possible, but not less than 600 mm. Otherwise, the swivel supports must be brought down in height to the floor level.

A fundamentally similar solution was used in the wall-mounted folding table (items 1 and 2 in the next figure), but here the bevel of the hanging corner of the support contributes to operational reliability. Which is quite applicable in the previous one. case: there are no contraindications for performing that support in the form of a trapezoid converging downward.

A proprietary solution to the problems of a book-table is removable legs stored in the cabinet. Placing them is not much more troublesome than catching the latch on the tabletop with a rotating support. Such a table-book is, of course, more expensive, but its operational reliability is complete: there is no latch, because it's simply not needed.

The next step in the evolution of the book-table is a design with a larger cabinet and one leg on each wing of the table top. There are half as many legs, which means the whole table is cheaper. Its stability has only increased due to the expansion of the cabinet, it is generally comfortable to sit, and there is more space in the cabinet (which is always in short supply in the kitchen).

Consumers liked such kitchen tables so much that they were already given the nickname - Cheburashka table. Probably, remembering from the cartoon: “Here, we built, built, and finally built it.” A folding kitchen table as it should be.

Alternative

If your kitchen is combined with a living room or you plan to combine them, then you don’t need to think about a kitchen table; it’s better to replace it with a column. You can not only drink at the bar counter, you can also eat there. The point of such a replacement is that at least half of the dining area goes beyond the kitchen, and the rest is used sporadically and does not wedge itself into the functional triangle. Result? See fig. It’s more convenient to work and dine in a 5-measure kitchenette with a bar counter, which separates the apartment’s zones, than in 8-9. meter kitchen Brezhnevka Don't believe it? Let's do the math.

The kitchen table does not stand on its own. To plant the eaters, you need to add 400 mm along the contour, and another 300-350 for the approach. As a result, a 900x600 mm table requires approx. 2.5 sq. m of “living space”, and the table is 1200x700 mm and all 3.5 sq. m. It is very, very difficult to push such a thick piece into a kitchen of normal size without crushing the soft-boiled functional triangle. Here, even if two people sit at the counter from the kitchen side, the functional triangle is not disturbed, and the hostess is within easy reach of everything.

One of the famous chefs once said: “The kitchen is conservative, as digestive tract" Here, of course, he bent and overdid it. Something like a stove, refrigerator, food processor and microwave is not found in our stomachs, although the kitchen is truly conservative. But even in the most conservative sphere, at some point there comes a time that requires fundamental changes.

Whatever the size of the kitchen, be it a small cell in a small family or a huge spacious kitchen in country house, in any case, a table is a mandatory piece of furniture in it. Despite the abundance of modern materials and the choice designer tables made of metal, glass, plastic and stone, wooden products continue to enjoy constant popularity. A wooden kitchen table creates an atmosphere of comfort and harmony in the house, somehow you don’t even want to quarrel behind it, the mood becomes calm and balanced. You can buy such a table at any furniture store; the range of finished products is large and varied. But you can also order a wooden table from a carpentry workshop according to an individual sketch. Of course, both of these options will cost a pretty penny, so many people prefer to make a wooden kitchen table with their own hands. Thus, you can save up to 70% of the cost of a finished similar product in a store. True, to perform carpentry work you will need special tools and carpenter skills, but this depends on the chosen material and the complexity of the table design.

Wooden dining table - optimal sizes

The size of the kitchen table directly depends on the area of ​​the kitchen and the place where the table is planned to be installed. It is believed that a person feels comfortable if his personal zone is at least 70 cm, i.e. there is no one within a radius of 35 cm around him. Based on this, a square table 90x90 or 100x100 cm will be quite enough for a family of 4 people, if the room allows you to move the table away from the wall so that everyone sits on their own side. If the size of the kitchen does not allow you to move the table, then you can install a rectangular table 120x75 or 120x80 cm. In this case, two people will sit at long side table, and two people on the short sides.

In a large room - a spacious kitchen or dining room - you can safely place a large wooden dining table, the length of the tabletop of such a table is 160 cm. Typically, the dimensions of large tables are 160x90 cm or 180x90 cm. The space along the long side of the table is enough to freely accommodate two people, and two the people behind the ends will feel like just kings. And this is on ordinary days. If there is an event with many guests, then 10 - 15 people can easily fit at such a table.

But how should residents of apartments with small kitchens accommodate guests? In such cases, an extendable dining table and a transforming table come to the rescue. Sliding tables are equipped with additional inserts for the tabletop, the width of which is usually 40 - 50 cm. There can be from one to three such inserts, all of them are located in the middle of the table or hidden under the tabletop cover in a special niche if the table is in assembled condition. Unfolded length sliding table can reach 230 - 280 cm. This is enough to invite guests to a wedding. When folded, the length of such a table is from 120 to 180 cm.

The height of the dining table is usually 70 cm, but much depends on the height and build of the residents; sometimes kitchen tables are made 60 - 65 or 75 - 80 cm high.

When choosing dimensions for a dining table, be guided by the space allocated for it. After all family members sit down at it, there should be enough free space around for the hostess to move around, so that she does not create inconvenience for those sitting and vice versa.

Wood for kitchen table

Choosing material for a kitchen table is a responsible task, from the right choice depends not only on the durability of the tabletop and its resistance to mechanical deformation, but also on the final cost of the table as a whole. Solid wood kitchen tables are considered the most durable, environmentally friendly, aesthetically pleasing and the most expensive. For self-made For a table made of solid wood, you will need the skills of a carpenter and carpenter, as well as tools for wood processing and a workshop for carrying out the work.

The density of wood for a kitchen table is of great importance. Marks and scratches may remain on the surface of soft wood, although it all depends on the care of the owners. And hardwoods can be difficult to work with for a beginner. Craftsmen distinguish three categories of wood according to density: soft, hard and the hardest.

Softwoods include: pine, cedar, fir, spruce, poplar, aspen, linden, alder, juniper, willow and chestnut.

Hardwoods include: oak, beech, elm, ash, larch, birch, apple and rowan.

The hardest ones: white acacia, yew, iron birch, dogwood.

Any wood is suitable for a kitchen dining table, even pine, which is considered the softest, but its surface must be varnished in several layers. A walnut table will be strong and heavy, and its surface is extremely durable, since even in the process of making openwork carvings, there are no chips on the walnut.

Oak wood for kitchen table - perfect option. In addition to being strong, hard and durable, it is also easy to work and varnish, will not warp, splinter or warp, and is rot resistant, which is essential for a wet kitchen.

Larch wood is considered healing, but taking into account the fact that the surface of the table must be covered with protective agents, it will not have the opportunity to release medicinal phytoncides into the atmosphere. Linden wood is suitable for the manufacture of turned elements, it is plastic and durable, but is affected by insect pests, and therefore also requires treatment with stain.

The most common types of wood used to make kitchen dining tables are pine, oak, walnut and wenge. Remember that you need to buy only well-dried material, with a moisture content of no more than 10%, otherwise the wood may warp, and this is fatal for the table.

In addition to solid wood, kitchen tables are made from chipboard (laminated particle board) thickness from 18 to 22 mm, as well as from plywood and MDF. The ends of these materials are covered with special PVC or melamine tape. These materials can hardly be called environmentally friendly and, of course, they are inferior in strength and durability to solid wood, but the ease of processing and low price tempt many. The laminated chipboard surface does not need to be additionally coated with anything; it already has a finished look. And plywood is used only for strapping or embedded parts, so it is not visible.

Whether to make a table from solid wood or to prefer easy-to-process laminated chipboard depends on the preferences of the owner and his carpentry and financial opportunities. After all, a kitchen table made of laminated chipboard will cost much less.

Types and configuration of kitchen wooden tables

Once you have decided on the size of the table and the material of manufacture, you can begin choosing the shape and configuration. Diversity design solutions tables can satisfy any request and select a table model that will best fit into the interior of the house and complement its sophistication.

Legs for kitchen wooden table

The number of legs for a dining kitchen table, their shape and size directly depend on the shape and size of the table, as well as on the material of manufacture. For example, it will not be possible to make a table entirely from laminated chipboard on 4 legs, which are attached to the corners of the tabletop, since laminated chipboard material has insufficient thickness and strength. But if in such a model the tabletop is made of laminated chipboard, and the legs are made of wooden beams, then you will get a completely strong and durable product.

You can make legs for a kitchen dining table yourself according to a sketch, or you can purchase ready-made ones at a furniture fittings store. Making legs yourself is a labor-intensive task, the complexity of which depends on the configuration of the legs. This is why many people prefer to purchase ready-made products. In a furniture fittings store you can buy metal legs for a kitchen table, which are hollow pipes with a diameter of 70 - 90 mm, but you can also pick up carved wooden legs that look like balusters for a wooden staircase.

The dining kitchen table can rest on one or several legs. It depends on the heaviness of the tabletop, the shape and configuration of the table. You can see what different dining tables with different numbers, shapes and sizes of legs look like in the photos below showing wooden dining tables.

To install the dining table on one massive leg, It is necessary to perform a high-quality cross strapping.

Also the table can have two massive legs, separated by a certain distance. Typically, such tables have a rectangular or oval shape. Tables on two legs are convenient because people sitting at them do not hit their legs against the legs of the table. At the bottom, these two legs widen to increase the support area and are also connected at the bottom by a header board or reinforcement board.

Dining tables with four legs- the most common category and the easiest to perform, since complex calculations for strength and stability are not required. It is enough to choose the legs of the correct size and install them at the correct distance from the edges of the table. The shape of the top of such tables can be round, oval, square and rectangular.

The shapes of legs for a kitchen table can be very diverse. Remember that the aesthetic appeal of the legs is even more important than the beauty of the tabletop, since it will be hidden by the tablecloth, while the table legs will be visible to all guests.

Kitchen table tops

The kitchen table top can be made of solid wood (furniture panel, which is boards glued together), as well as laminated chipboard or glass. Naturally, massive tables look more refined and resemble a work of art, while tables made of laminated chipboard are just an ordinary, unremarkable dining table. The end of the chipboard must be edged, so the cut must be perfect. Cutting laminated chipboard at home, and even so that the cut is even, is quite difficult. Especially if the cut is semicircular. Therefore, it is better to order sawing of laminated chipboard on a machine. Trim Chipboard is better Total PVC tape 2 mm thick or more or melamine tape. The first option is preferable, since the edges are smooth, even and rounded. If you cover the end of the laminated chipboard with melamine tape, the edges will be sharp, they can cause puffs on clothes, cuts on the skin, and melamine tape is short-lived and does not withstand frequent water treatments.

Important! The thickness of the tabletop should be more than 25 mm, preferably 28 - 35 mm. If you use laminated chipboard with a thickness of only 18 mm, then it is necessary to make reinforcement at the bottom in the form of a false countertop made of plywood.

The shapes of the tops of wooden tables are not as varied as the shapes of the legs.

Round tables for the kitchen are an option for everyone. The main problem is that, oddly enough, such a table requires more space. You can’t put it in a corner, and even if you move it against the wall, you still need free space for people to sit around it. A round wooden dining table will look great in a dining room or large kitchen or living room, where it will stand in the middle of the room. A round table is not appropriate in a small kitchen. Perhaps if only one or two people live in the house, and the table is small - no more than 90 cm in diameter. Round tables allow you to experiment with support. For example, use only one leg or three legs, but for greater stability, four legs are still used, installed at a distance of 10 - 15 cm from the edge of the tabletop. You cannot use two support legs in tables with a round top - this design is unstable.

Oval kitchen tables can come in a variety of sizes, from small tables for oversized kitchens to huge tables that take up central part dining room

Small oval wooden kitchen table designed for compact kitchens, it can be installed in a corner soft set, as shown in the photo. But the most common are still large tables and medium-sized tables, since they fit in average domestic apartments and at the same time they can accommodate many guests. If there is nowhere to put a large table - the living room and kitchen area does not allow it - then an oval sliding wooden dining table comes to the rescue.

Such a table usually has a tabletop divided in half, the halves of which can be moved, and additional inserts can be installed in the middle part of such a table. By the way, the shape of such a table when folded can be round, but the table takes on an oval shape only when unfolded.

Wooden kitchen sliding tables

It is worth highlighting sliding tables for a large number of guests as a separate category. They can have different shapes: round, oval and rectangular. The most common are still rectangular and oval models. It is easier to make a rectangular wooden sliding dining table yourself than an oval one, since there is no need to round the corners using carpentry tools.

Sliding mechanisms for such tables can also be different. Old Soviet tables were not equipped with roller guides or full roll-out guides, and the table had to be moved apart with effort, as the wood rubbed against the wood. Especially if the table stood folded for a long time, sometimes it was extremely difficult to move the stuck to each other wooden surfaces. Modern sliding tables have a special roll-out mechanism that greatly facilitates work and also prevents damage to wooden parts and surfaces. Metal guides for an extending table can be purchased at a hardware store.

Sliding wooden kitchen tables: photo examples.

Additional wooden insert sections, which are installed in the middle of the table, can be stored under the tabletop when the table is folded. The easiest way is to make special fasteners for them into which they will be inserted.

In modern sliding dining tables, the insert consists of two halves connected by hinges, folds in half and is hidden under the tabletop using a special mechanism. To do this, under the main tabletop there must be an additional false tabletop with a hole in the middle.

Tables on wooden legs, but with glass table top th, suitable for rooms in a style close to hi-tech or minimalism. Sometimes a glass tabletop is installed on top of wooden frame or a wooden tabletop with holes. In any case, the product turns out to be futuristic. The tabletop is usually made of tempered glass; it is not only shock-resistant, but also much stronger than wood, and the surface is quite difficult to scratch. The legs are attached to the glass tabletop using special fasteners. You can easily make such a table yourself if you order glass cutting from an organization that specializes in this.

Transformable tables are a separate category of tables that, when folded, form a small, compact bedside table. If you place it near the wall, it will take up no more than 50 - 60 cm. When unfolded, such a table can accommodate from 10 to 15 people. The folding tabletop covers are secured with hinges. The most common shape of transforming tables is rectangular, but round tables are also available.

DIY wooden dining table

For the manufacture of wooden table You need to have a workshop with your own hands, since there will be a lot of dust, and there is no point in littering your apartment or house. First you need to draw a sketch of the future table indicating the exact dimensions. Then the sawing of wooden elements can be ordered at a sawmill, if it is not possible to do it yourself. Let's consider making the simplest wooden dining table.

We will need the following materials and tools:

• Hacksaw;
• Jigsaw;
• Drill;
• Milling machine;
• Plane;
• Paint brush;
• Bolts;
• Emery cloth and sander;
• Wooden boards 22 mm thick;
• Furniture board.

The first step is to cut out all the elements according to the sketch. The legs in our case will have a simple straight shape with cutouts that can be easily made with a jigsaw, and then cleaned with a grinder and chamfered.

The legs of the kitchen table, according to the drawing, consist of two horizontal elements (supports) with which the table rests on the floor surface, and two vertical elements (stand legs). They are connected to each other by simple bolted connection(bolts 8 mm). The bolts are fastened through and with reverse side are locked with a nut. Assembly begins from the bottom, first one vertical leg-stand is attached to the supports, then the same is done with the second leg. Then a longitudinal connection - a jumper board - is inserted into a special groove between the vertical legs-stands. It is fixed by the second vertical elements of the support legs.

The next stage is installation of the countertop. We put it ready furniture board and in the place where you plan to mount vertical elements legs, install horizontal transverse stiffeners. These elements have a length equal to the width of the tabletop. Then a flange of wooden blocks is installed on top. The technology for attaching the flange to the tabletop and horizontal transverse stiffeners is easier to understand by watching the video at the end of the article. The strapping/flanging beam is fastened through the stiffener strips with two self-tapping screws.

First, the bars are attached to the long sides of the tabletop, then perpendicular bars located along the narrow side of the table are attached to them with self-tapping screws. As a result, there remains free space between the tabletop and the edging bars, which does not look very aesthetically pleasing. To close it, a decorative wooden strip is used. Dowels are used to secure it to the beams. Holes for dowels are made in the beams and planks. Then wooden cylinders, which are called dowels, pins or dowels, are inserted into the holes of the strapping bars, having previously lubricated the hole with glue. Then a decorative strip is put on the protruding dowels. The tabletop is ready.

All that remains is to screw the table legs to the tabletop. For this, the same bolts are used as for attaching the vertical legs-stands to horizontal supports. It is better to make the holes for them in advance.

The design of this table is collapsible; after the feast, it can be taken apart piece by piece and hidden in a closet or behind a closet. The sequence and technology for making a wooden table with your own hands can be seen more clearly in the video instructions below.

A piece of furniture such as a kitchen (or as it is also called dining) table is the main component kitchen interior. Its shape and size must correspond to the size of the room so that all family members can freely fit behind it. It is also important that the kitchen table does not interfere with free passage.

Sliding dining kitchen table-transformer

Currently, stores offer a wide selection kitchen furniture, various shapes and sizes, made from a variety of materials. The market offers tables of both Russian and foreign production.

Original round dining table with chairs in the kitchen interior

When choosing a table for a small kitchen, you have to make a choice - you like it when there is a lot of free space, or it is important for you that the furniture is comfortable and roomy. If you just can’t decide on a suitable table for your kitchen, try making it yourself. Anyone who has a certain skill can do this quite well.

Do-it-yourself wooden round table with a four-leg structure

DIY folding table for a small kitchen

Many men who like to make things with their own hands can significantly save the family budget, because finished products are not cheap. Accordingly, you independently select the material for making the dining table High Quality and the necessary fastening. By demonstrating your design skills, you will assemble an original piece of furniture that is ideal for your kitchen interior.

Folding table for the kitchen that won't take up extra space

Don't think this is a difficult task. Assembling the dining table will not take much time - just a few days. It's a little more difficult to make a tabletop. It is better to first consult with friends who are involved in such matters, or read information on the Internet.

DIY table with shelves and folding tabletop

By assembling a table with your own hands, you will create a unique thing and bring an old idea to life. Maybe with yours light hand, organize the production of kitchen tables, and this will grow into a profitable business.

Deciding on design and construction

Round wooden table with handmade painting

Square wooden table for dining area

The design and shape of the dining table can be very diverse. Designers, using imagination, bring the most unusual ideas to life.

Extending oval dining table with chrome legs

Let's look at the design of this piece of furniture.

Round table	It has smooth lines, as if uniting those who sit at such a table. It has several legs or one large one. It’s comfortable to sit at, and you won’t have any associations with your place of work or study. There is one drawback - it cannot be placed tightly against the wall
Oval	An excellent option for owners large kitchen, which is divided into working and dining areas. Ideal choice for big family, quite strong
Square	The embodiment of rigor, but at the same time it is simple and multifunctional. Suitable for small spaces, good space saving
Rectangular	Widely used option. It can accommodate many people. It can be placed however you like - in the center, against the wall, near the window.
Triangular	This type of table is quite rare in the kitchen. It is used as unusual element decoration, for example as a coffee table

Wooden kitchen furniture set: rectangular table, bench and corner

Dining corner table from glass

Owners of a small kitchen prefer to use a table-book or an extension table. Since when assembled they save a lot of space. Other forms of tables are rarely seen. If you prefer products of an original shape, it is better to have them made to order.

Large classic solid wood dining table

A kitchen table, like any other furniture, is selected to suit a specific interior style. For example, a regular wooden table is suitable for a classic look. High-tech is characterized by right angles and lines, so they choose tables made of plastic, metal, glass, with an emphasis on white and gray shades. For the Art Nouveau style, unusual furniture with ornate lines is used. Eco-style implies products made from natural materials.

Original folding dining table in high-tech style

Designer's advice. Whatever table you choose, the main thing is that it matches the interior and complements the overall look.

Necessary materials

Materials for the dining table may vary. Here are the most used ones:

• laminated chipboard;
• glued boards, edged;
• timber

If desired, they can be combined. You will also need: corners, hinges (for folding models), rollers, confirmations, corner fasteners, eccentric bolts, lining legs, tape for edge decoration, plastic profile for the tabletop, plugs.

Required Tools

You can’t do without a standard set of tools:

• jigsaw;
• drill;
• hacksaw;
• screwdriver;
• drill;
• screwdrivers;
• electric plane;
• grinding machine;
• hexagons;
• construction hair dryer (can be replaced with an iron);
• tape measure (ruler), pencil.

During production complex models you can't do without an additional tool.

Manufacturing process: step-by-step instructions

We will make the tabletop from wooden boards

How to make a kitchen table with your own hands? Let's look at this using the example of a regular dining table. First of all, we prepare the tools and materials that will be needed for the work.

Diagram of the future dining table with dimensions

Then we mark the furniture elements. We start with the tabletop, since this is the largest part of the table. It can be rectangular, round, square or oval in shape. If you are planning to make a table of an unusual shape, make the markings according to the sketches.

We sand the boards with a plane, carefully process the edges so that the boards fit as tightly as possible to each other

We connect the boards with glue and dowels, remove excess glue on the surface and sand it

Then we apply a drawing of the side posts onto the material - these will be the legs of the future table. Most often, their shape imitates a chess piece. If you want, you can make it in a different shape at your discretion. The main thing is that the structure is stable.

We fasten the legs and make a base for the tabletop

Then we mark the upper and lower crossbars, which will connect the racks and thereby ensure the reliability of the structure. Remember that the lower crossbar is always almost twice as wide as the upper one. Its shape is varied. Typically, the legs are placed from the edge of the table surface at a distance of 15-20 cm.

At the next stage of work, we cut out the elements. Place the material on the table. Cut out the tabletop using a jigsaw. To avoid chipping, we place plywood underneath. Similarly, cut out the remaining parts. Do not allow the material to sag. Because of this, the tool may break or the cut element may break. After cutting out the edges of the parts, we grind them with a special machine or go over them with sandpaper.

We attach the legs to the long crossbars and drill holes in them in order to install the tabletop later

Using tape to decorate the edges and a plastic profile, we perform trimming. First we put the profile on the edge of the surface. In the place of the angular bend, the profile must be heated with a hairdryer and then rotated. For high-quality fastening use universal glue.

After the glue in the frame has dried, you can begin installing the tabletop on the frame.

Then we trim the legs and crossbars using tape to decorate the edges. Before this, prepare the surface by cleaning it from dirt and grease. Using a hot iron, press the tape onto the edge and glue it. Using a sharp knife, cut off the excess. The resulting irregularities are carefully removed with sandpaper. We process the edges of the remaining elements in the same way.

If you want to make the table longer and wider, you need to strengthen it with two additional cross bars

We assemble the table in the following order. Using confirmations, we connect the legs with the crossbars, positioning the upper one so as to prevent the table top from sagging. We fix the bottom one at a height of 20-25 cm from the floor.

The finished assembled table only needs to be treated with varnish or stain or painted, having previously been primed

We lay the tabletop on the finished base and fix it at the corners. We attach the legs-pads to the racks. We decorate furniture screws with plugs. That's it, the dining table is ready!

Ready-made universal option - tabletop and legs covered with stain

You can paint the legs White color, and cover the tabletop with stain to get an unusual design

A table is the second item after a stool that every beginning amateur furniture maker should be able to do. The table can be created from different materials and have unique characteristics. An excellent intention for you would be the desire to make your own product from wood.

A table made of wood is quite easy to create with your own hands; having minimal skills in working with carpentry tools is enough. And the cost of the material will be significantly less than for a table using metal, glass or plastic.

A piece of furniture made with your own hands will most accurately correspond to the wishes of the happy owner, and will be incomparably more pleasing to the eye than what was purchased. And most importantly, when creating a table with your own hands, you acquire important skills in working with the material, which will make the restoration of operational defects much easier.

What can you make a good table from?

A particularly beautiful tabletop can be made from cheap, non-grade pine boards, knotty and twisted (without falling knots, rot, fungus, wormholes), which, when well processed, give a wonderful pattern, to achieve which when working with expensive wood, much more expense and effort is required .

When choosing a material, it is important to take care of the strength of the future product. To do this, you should pay attention to the density of the wood.

Soft wood (spruce, pine, chestnut, dogwood) is easily damaged during use, which negatively affects the durability of the table. But scratches and dents can be hidden, although the restoration process will be quite frequent.

Hardwoods (beech, ash, maple, oak, walnut, fruit trees, elm) are quite difficult to process on your own. And you may have to look for experts to work with them. But you will ensure the durability of the product.

External characteristics

It is very important to determine in advance the appearance of your future product. The basic rule of a good table is if the structure fits well into the space allocated for it and leaves a lot of free space for those sitting.

It is also important to consider that a table with a rectangular tabletop will accommodate fewer people than a table with a round or oval shape with the same area. And it would be more expedient to make a table for guests in a folding version, which is folded out for big holidays, but in everyday life is folded. Also, such a folding table will be convenient in the utility room.

Most often you need to choose a kitchen table. It should be roomy and pleasing to the eye to facilitate the process of working with it. But it should not interfere with movement in the room and in no way interfere with the process of culinary creativity.

Based on this, it is absolutely clear that the size of the table is selected depending on the area of ​​the room. Also, soft wood cannot be used for a kitchen table due to its use in “extreme” conditions.

Choosing the external characteristics of a product is a responsible process, therefore, before starting to personally create a table for a summer house, it is extremely necessary to thoughtfully assess the needs for which this table is being made.

Transferring an idea to paper

When creating a design that is the fruit of your imagination, you will have to develop the diagram and drawings of your table yourself. Why are there so many electronic programs?

After a thorough development process, it is extremely important to transfer the resulting result to paper. For fast and high-quality work, it is very important to use this manual constantly.

Creative process

Preparation of drawings is the last preparatory stage. Next, you can begin the most important part of the work - manufacturing the parts. Do-it-yourself wooden tables are much easier to create if the drawings and diagrams are as informative as possible. This reduces the likelihood of errors to a minimum.

You can actually do it yourself like this: desk, and magazine or children's version. With some skill, it is possible to create a computer desk. And also lunch or country model. Each of the options is quite easy to implement.

The canvas for the tabletop and the boards with beams from which the remaining parts will be formed are processed with the available tool or, at worst, with coarse sandpaper to remove any defects present in the form of unevenness and protruding knots.

The boards are sanded on all sides, including the side edges and corners. If you are creating a canvas from wood cuts, you need to make sure that they are sufficiently dry, and also repair small cracks discovered after a visual inspection. And it’s better to tongue and groove them. To get more reliable adhesion of the canvas and save time on assembling elements.

Transfer the diagram to the finished canvas. The main elements are cut out with a jigsaw and, if necessary, the sections are polished. Speakers supporting elements trimmed to approximately 3 centimeters. Horizontal cuts are made on both sides of the supports (legs).

The blanks are coated with a preparation that prevents the entry of moisture and pests, and only after final drying is it possible to resume the process of creating a table with your own hands.

Putting the details together

After making all necessary details you can begin the ritual. Namely, to put together the desired masterpiece. And this can be either a round table or some other selected product.

First you need to collect supporting structure using screws and glue (first, thin channels are drilled with a drill to the length of the screw, otherwise there is a possibility of the part splitting). Galvanized screws can be used for connections, as they do not rust, and this is very important for wood products. Or wood glue.

According to the basic rules, the length and width of the frame should be 30-25 cm less than the tabletop.

Additional boards need to be attached to the sides to add rigidity and to hide the place where the legs are attached. Cut chamfers where the legs are installed.

Then the table leg is secured in place with clamps, and holes for the bolts are drilled in the frame. Place the supporting elements in place and secure them with stoppers. Reinforce the structure with wood glue. Then install the tabletop in place for which furniture corners are used. At the very end, all visible screws are hidden with plugs matching the color of the wood.

The final stage. Finishing

A photo of the completed table can be seen below. Achieving this result is surprisingly easy. If desired, you can round either only the corners or the entire end, depending on the type of table. It will be nice to make chamfers on the edges of the tabletop.

Irregularities in the entire structure are sanded down, and mistakes made are hidden using putty. To extend the service life of a hand-assembled table, it is necessary to cover it with several layers of varnish or stain.

Thus, making a beautiful wooden table with your own hands is a fairly simple leisure activity. And easy to do. The guarantee of obtaining a high-quality, ideal in dimensions and aesthetic result according to your drawings is: strict adherence to the instructions, error-free execution and carefully selected material. And the resulting table will harmoniously fit into the exterior.

Photos of tables with your own hands

A table with your own hands can easily be made even by a home craftsman who does not have any accumulated experience in carpentry. Of course, this will become possible if the design of the table is quite simple and understandable.

For example, find a suitable finished model table for a kitchen that is extremely small in size does not always work. Purchasing custom-made solid wood furniture is quite expensive. Therefore, sometimes you have to take up the tools and construct your own “work” yourself, starting from the specific dimensions of the place where you plan to install the table.

In addition, there is often a desire to express one’s Creative skills in dacha conditions, especially since there is always a desire to beautifully arrange a veranda or gazebo suburban area. If you have suitable materials and tools at hand, then you can either sit down to draw up a drawing of the future table, or use a ready-made project, and then get to work.

To figure out which type of table you can build with your own hands, it is advisable to consider several options for this piece of furniture.

Tools for work

Before starting work, you need to prepare the appropriate tools that will be required to make any wooden table. The amount of material for each model will be different.

You can use regular, traditional hand tools that carpenters have always used. This list usually includes:

1. A plane used to level wood and cut parts to the required size.
2. Chisels for sampling various holes and grooves, removing small protrusions.
3. Saws different sizes and modifications that are used to cut thick boards or make small cuts.
4. Pencil, tape measure, corner and ruler.
5. Screwdriver Set.
6. Clamps for temporary fixation of glued parts.
7. Sandpaper for sanding.

Many of the tools can be replaced with more modern and convenient devices:

• An electric jigsaw will do all the work that the various saws mentioned above were previously used for.

Rating of jigsaws

• A sanding machine will help make surfaces smooth and polish them to a shine, eliminating a very tedious procedure. manual processing sandpaper.

• Milling machine with a set of cutters. This device will help round sharp corners, drill shaped grooves for furniture hinges, and if you need it and have some experience, you can use it to decorate a table with a relief pattern.

• will significantly speed up the work, since you won’t have to spend several minutes tightening each screw. In addition, during certain operations it is possible to install one of the milling cutters or ordinary drills into it, for example, in order to process an edge or make a perfectly even large or small hole (groove).

• The construction level will help make the product even and neat, as it will show all possible irregularities and distortions.

To prevent the finished furniture from being “crooked”, the assembly is controlled by level

An easy-to-make table for a summer cottage

Anyone can make a table like this

Necessary materials

For such a country house, having a tabletop size of 1680×850 mm, you will not need too much wooden blanks. You need to prepare the following:

1. Beam, cross-section - 750×100×50 mm - 4 pcs. (table legs).
2. Self-tapping screws, bolts and possibly metal corners.
3. Wood glue.
4. Board size:

• 1680×100×25 mm – 4 pcs. (longitudinal frame elements);
• 850×100×25 mm – 2 pcs. (transverse frame parts);
• 1580×100×25 mm – 2 pcs. (cladding boards for the side elements of the frame);
• 950×100×25 mm – 17 pcs. (boards for tabletops).

All wooden elements must be treated with compounds and have a prepared smooth surface. If you plan to “darken” the wood, then cover it with stain, and to reveal the textured pattern, carefully go over the top grinder. Fine-grit sandpaper will remove the stained, raised parts of the wood grain so that they become lighter than the depressions.

Installation of a garden table

When all the parts for the frame are prepared, you can proceed to assembly.

Frame or “box” of the table

• The first step is the details of the tabletop frame - four longitudinal boards measuring 1680x100x25 mm and two end boards 850x100x25 mm, laid out on a large table or on the floor. The location of the internal and external boards is marked on the end boards. Using a ruler, based on the drawing, the required distances are measured and marked with a pencil. It is imperative to accurately mark the width of the longitudinal board at the junction with the end board, especially if the connection will be made using the tie-in method.

The elements can be connected in different ways:

Connection with a choice of “quarters” and using metal corners

- using a steel angle - this is the simplest and reliable way;

- the insertion method is a more complex method, since it requires precise dimensions not only in the width and length of the connecting elements, but also in the depth of the board;

Several types of joints based on the tongue-and-groove principle

- “groove-tenon”, shown in the second figure a), b), c), d) and e) such a connection is also quite difficult for novice craftsmen with no experience;

- connection with dowels is shown in fragment e) - this method also requires perfect accuracy when marking and drilling holes in the parts to be connected.

• All connections are usually made using glue. The only exception is the fastening of parts end-to-end with a metal corner.
• The frame must have perfectly aligned right angles, so after connecting all the elements, you need to carry out control using a construction angle and measuring and comparing the lengths of the diagonals.
• If parts are secured with glue, they must be fixed in clamps and left until it dries completely, otherwise they will not be connected securely.

• When the glue dries and the frame acquires a certain rigidity, facing boards measuring 1580 × 100 × 25 mm are attached to the outer longitudinal sides. The place of their attachment also needs to be marked, since there should be a distance along their edges for mounting the legs. The facing boards are also installed with glue and fixed with self-tapping screws, the heads of which should be recessed into the wood by 1.5 ÷ 2.0 mm.

• The next stage is the transverse cladding of the tabletop with boards 950×100×25 mm. The place where they are attached must also first be marked, starting from the middle of the frame, since they must be installed at a distance of 5 mm from each other. The protrusion of the tabletop above the frame should be 25 mm on all four sides.

• Next, each of the boards is fixed in four places to the longitudinal elements of the table “box,” and the outer boards are also attached to the end sides. In order for the heads of the self-tapping screws to be recessed, recesses with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled into the boards to a depth of 2–3 mm, then, in the center of these recesses, through holes are drilled with a drill of a smaller diameter (usually 3 mm), into which the self-tapping screws will be screwed. To avoid cracking of the boards during installation work, through holes must be drilled.

• After this, legs made of timber with a cross-section of 750×100×50 mm are attached to the edges of the longitudinal boards; they must exactly match the width of the tabletop.

The next step is installing the legs

• The legs can be secured to the frame with self-tapping screws, but it is better to fix each of them with two bolts, placing them diagonally at the connection point. Through holes are drilled for the bolts, and the nuts are tightened on them from inside the frame using a wrench.
• The final stage of manufacturing is sealing the heads of the screws with a mixture made from carpentry or epoxy glue and sawdust. Use this homemade putty to fill the recesses above the caps and level them well. After the glue has dried, the entire tabletop, and especially the areas covered with “plugs” of glue, must be sanded well.

• After this, the table can be covered with varnish or water-based paint. After waiting for the decorative or protective layer to dry, the product can be installed in a country gazebo, on a veranda or terrace in a recreation area.

If desired, it would be easy to make a bench to go along with the table.

Small folding table for the kitchen

This small folding table is perfect for a small kitchen or a very small room.

1. Its design is designed in such a way that the tabletop cannot fold on its own if the table leg is accidentally touched, so the table is quite safe for installation in a children's room.
2. The presence of a spacious double-sided bedside table will allow you to store various small items and small toys in it.
3. The table is equipped with a tabletop of sufficient size so that the child can do homework while sitting at it.
4. In addition, there is room on the tabletop for a laptop or books necessary for study.
5. If necessary, this small table can easily replace an ironing board if you lay a soft cloth on its surface.

Considering all of the above, the table can be called multifunctional, despite its very compact size.

Find out how, and also check out several models with detailed instructions in a special article on our portal.

Necessary materials and parts for a folding table

To assemble such a convenient piece of furniture, you need to prepare all the parts that make it up. The list of necessary blanks is given in the table below, and how to make them will be described and shown below:

Diagram of the table with the numbers of assembly parts marked (the illustration is clickable - click to enlarge)

Part number on the drawing	the name of detail	Quantity, pcs.	Part size, mm	Material of manufacture, thickness, mm
1	Folding part of the table top.	1	600×600
2	Fixed table top of the cabinet.	1	600×475	Multilayer plywood 25 mm thick
3		2	530×30
4		2	120×30	Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick
5	The upper end part of the groove that limits the movement of the leg.	1	122×30	Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick
6	Groove element for leg movement on a folding tabletop.	2	530×20	Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick
7	A groove element for the movement of the leg on the tabletop of the cabinet.	2	120×20	Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick
8	The lower end part of the groove that limits the movement of the leg.	1	122×20	Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick
9	Side walls of the table cabinet.	2	720×520	MDF 19 mm
10	Horizontal parts of the cabinet forming shelves.	3	520×312	MDF 19 mm
11	The lower vertical part of the internal partition of the cabinet.	1	418×312	MDF 19 mm
12	The upper vertical part of the inner partition of the cabinet.	1	312×184	MDF 19 mm
13	The middle horizontal part of the cabinet.	1	310×250	MDF 19 mm
14	Cabinet door.	1	477×346	MDF 19 mm
15	Cabinet shelf.	1	310×250	MDF 19 mm
16	Cabinet drawer front panel.	1	346×209	MDF 19 mm
17	The front panel of the drawer (located behind the front panel).	1	418×312	MDF 19 mm
18	Drawer side panels.	2	341×250	MDF 19 mm
19	Back panel of the drawer.	1	272×120	MDF 19 mm
20	Drawer bottom panel.	1	341×272	MDF 19 mm
	Handles for drawers and cabinet doors.	2	Ø 30 mm	Wood
	Upper leg element.	1	80×80×18	Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick
	Mobile table leg.	1	Ø top 55, bottom 30, height 702	Wood
	Furniture hinges for connecting two parts of the tabletop.	2	Ø 50 mm	Metal
	Furniture door hinges.	2	The size depends on the shape.	Metal
	Bottom end panels covering the gap under the cabinet.	2	20×300×5	Plywood 5 mm

The drawings show a drawing of a table that can be relied upon in the process of manufacturing and assembling elements into a single structure.

Main dimensions of the table (illustration is clickable - click to enlarge)
Individual table components – drawer and a guide channel for moving the leg (the illustration is clickable - click to enlarge)

To manufacture all the parts listed in the table, you will need modern electric tools that can bring the workpiece to professional perfection.

Find out how to do it with a photo and description in a special article on our portal.

Installation of a folding table-cabinet

You should start making a table with its most important and largest part - the tabletop. Since the table is folding, this element will consist of two parts - stationary and “mobile”, that is, one that can be folded down if necessary. When folded, this table can easily serve as a regular compact cabinet.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	The first step is to make 25 mm thick plywood using a jigsaw or circular saw, it is necessary to cut blanks for the tabletop, measuring 600×600 and 600×475 mm.
	Next, markings are made on the larger panel - a semicircle is drawn, since the front of the table should be rounded. In order to achieve the correct shape of a semicircle, you can use a large construction compass, or make one yourself - from a nail, pencil and rope.
	Then, along the marked line, the tabletop is rounded. This can be done using a jigsaw or circular saw, installing the appropriate compass attachment on it.
	Next, a cutter of the desired configuration is installed on the milling machine, which will make the edges of the tabletop smooth, or, if desired, even or rounded.
	The semicircular part of the panel is processed with a milling cutter, leaving the side that will join the second part of the tabletop flat. Then its edges are processed in the same way.
	The next step is to place the two processed parts of the tabletop on a flat table at a distance of 5 mm from each other. Markings are being made for installation furniture hinges. They must be placed at a distance of 100-120 mm from the edge of the tabletop. Furniture hinges can have different shapes, so they should be laid in the marked place and outlined with a simple pencil. Then, using a router, special shaped grooves are made in the plywood, the depth of which should be equal to the thickness of the furniture hinges. The hinges are fixed into the finished holes using self-tapping screws.
	After connecting the two parts of the tabletop with hinges, in the middle of the panels, markings are made on their lower side to secure the parts that will form a closed channel for the movement of the moving table leg. The guides should be fixed at a distance of 30 mm from the junction of the two parts of the tabletop. For the manufacture of parts, plywood with a thickness of 18 mm is taken. Then, 10 elements are cut out of it and processed with a milling cutter: 530×30 mm in size - 2 pieces, 530×20 mm - 2 pieces, 120×30 mm - 2 pieces, 122×30 mm - 1 piece, 120× 20 mm - 2 pcs., 122×20 mm - 1 pc. It is important to remember here that long slats should have 45˚ cuts on one edge, and short elements on both sides, so that when joined, they form a right angle. In addition, the upper long and short parts, fixed on top of the lower rails of the guides, are cut off from the ends, also at an angle of 45˚. These cuts are necessary so that their angles do not interfere with the movement of the leg along the formed channel. Then, the parts are glued with wood glue to the marked area of ​​the rounded, and then to the rectangular part of the tabletop. First, the longest slats measuring 530×20 mm are fixed with glue and then screwed with self-tapping screws; then a piece of 122×20 mm covers the channel. On top of the long and short fixed slats, second ones are glued, having the same length, but greater width; they are also additionally screwed with self-tapping screws. Thus, an even channel is formed between the table top and the top rail, along which the leg will move. It is very important to calculate the location of the places where the screws are screwed in so that the top ones do not collide with those that secure the bottom slats. Four parts are fastened to the rectangular part of the tabletop in the same way. All elements must be processed until smooth and perfectly evenly fastened to each other, otherwise the leg will bump into obstacles and jam when moving.
	The leg is usually made using lathe. If it is not there, then you can order it from a master or purchase it ready-made. As a last resort, you can make it square by treating the timber required height until smooth. Then, using a dowel and glue, a square plywood guide plate measuring 80x80x18 mm is attached to the upper end of the leg using a dowel and glue.
	Next, after the glue has dried, the leg can be installed in the channel intended for it and tested for its free movement, without jamming. If necessary, minor adjustments and modifications can be made.
	The finished tabletop is painted or coated with water-based varnish - if the goal is to preserve the textured pattern of the plywood. After this, the finished tabletop is put aside and proceed to the manufacture of the cabinet.
	The elements of the cabinet do not have complex configurations, therefore, to make them, it is enough to accurately transfer the dimensions of the parts indicated in the table on an MDF panel or thick plywood and carefully cut them out using a jigsaw or saw. After the parts are made, their end parts must be processed smoothly with a milling cutter, otherwise they will look sloppy.
	If you plan to cover the visible end parts of the cabinet parts with a special laminated edge tape, then this process is carried out using a regular iron. The tape on its inner side has a layer of glue, which heats up under the influence of heat and ensures reliable fixation of the edge on the surface of the end parts of the MDF panels.
	The next step in the cabinet door panel is to make shaped grooves into which furniture hinges will be installed and secured. The holes are made in the same way as in the countertop using a router, but in this case the cutter can also be installed in a screwdriver, since MDF has a lower density than plywood and is easier to process without chipping the material. The hinges should be placed at a distance of 100 mm from the edges of the door - before starting drilling, it is necessary to carry out careful markings. A similar procedure is carried out with the wall of the cabinet on which the door will be attached. Then the walls and doors are joined together to check the correct installation and to mark holes for the screws.
	In addition to the hinges, you can immediately screw the prepared handle to the door. To do this, step back 50 mm from the edge of the panel and find a convenient height position, mark a point through which a through hole is drilled to secure the handle.
	All manufactured parts of the cabinet are painted with paint of the selected color using a roller and brush. Paint will not only make the product aesthetically attractive, but will also protect the material from the negative influence of a specific kitchen humid environment.
	Next, you can proceed to assembling the bedside table. Professionals carry out this process using special tools, but they can be easily replaced with improvised devices. For example, you can carry out the assembly on a flat table, and for ease of installation of the cabinet, it is additionally installed on flat bars. Mutual fastening of parts can be done using wooden dowels, metal furniture corners or self-tapping screws - the latter option is the simplest, but also the most unreliable. In addition, the screw heads will have to be masked with various compounds after assembly. The assembly process proceeds as follows: - The bottom panel is placed on the stands. - One of the side panels is leveled on it and using a construction corner, and its location is marked with a pencil. -The location of the fastening parts is immediately marked on the horizontal and vertical panels. - Exactly the same procedure is carried out with the second side and dividing middle wall. - Then holes are drilled at the marked points on the bottom and the end sides of the side panels for installing dowels. - After this, before gluing the parts together, locations for installing shelves are determined on the side walls. Then, shelf support brackets are mounted in the marked places, for which holes are also drilled. - Next, dowels coated with glue are installed in the holes drilled in the bottom, and the side walls are put on their upper, protruding part. - Fixed shelves-lintels are mounted in the same way, simultaneously with the side walls.
	Before continuing work, you need to make sure that the glue in the assembled structure has dried well. To make the cabinet stand more rigidly, it is laid on its side and pressed with clamps while it dries.
	While the glue dries, you can start assembling the drawer. Since it will be completely assembled from MDF, the installation of the box can also be carried out using dowels. The sides are attached to the bottom of the box, and a line is drawn along them with a pencil, and then marks are made of the places where the dowels will be installed. Then, the sidewalls are removed, and at the marked places, holes are drilled in their end for installing fasteners. The same is done on the bottom panel. Next, the dowels are coated with glue and carefully inserted into the holes, connecting the sides to the bottom.
	The sidewalls are screwed together using self-tapping screws, the heads of which are recommended to be recessed into the wood, and the holes to be sealed with a mixture of epoxy glue and sawdust. Another fastening option can be furniture corners, which are screwed from the inside to the sides with self-tapping screws. Each side will require two corners.
	When assembling the box, it is necessary to control the evenness of its corners using a construction angle and changing the diagonals, otherwise a skew may occur.
	If you plan to install metal roller guides for easy movement of the drawer, then first, the location of their attachment is determined on the sides of the drawers and on the inner walls of the cabinet. To do this, using a pencil and a ruler, draw a line along which the guides will be fixed.
	Next, a front panel is installed to the front of the drawer. It is screwed from the inside of the box, through pre-marked and drilled holes. In addition to self-tapping screws, it is recommended to use glue to fasten the panel: it is applied to the front panel, and then the front panel is pressed against it, and they are tightened with four or five self-tapping screws. After the glue dries, a hole is drilled in the center of the facade panel, through which the handle is screwed.
	Finally, the long-awaited moment comes - connecting the cabinet and the countertop. It is recommended to first glue the stationary part of the tabletop to the surface of the cabinet, and then secure it with screws that are screwed in from the inside of the lower cabinets. But first, the tabletop needs to be positioned correctly. Part of the channel located on the permanently installed tabletop panel should rest against the side of the cabinet - it will serve as a stopper for the movement of the leg towards the table. The tabletop should extend beyond the edges of the cabinet on the drawer side by 50 mm, open shelves by 30 mm, and on the leg side by 120 mm.
	Having secured the tabletop, they proceed to the final installation and screwing the bedside table door onto the screws. Then the drawer is inserted, and the shelves are installed on the shelf supports.
	When closed, the table is compact, so it does not take up much space and looks quite aesthetically pleasing. If desired, you can choose other colors to decorate it, which will better harmonize with the interior of a particular room.
	When open, the table also does not take up much space and fits perfectly into one of the corners of the room. Thanks to its “light” design, it does not weigh down the interior, and the shape of the tabletop makes it safe for children. Therefore, this table option can be considered ideal for small apartments with small kitchens and rooms.

If there is a need to save money, or you simply have a great desire to express yourself in carpentry, then you should not put off making your own. Moreover, the assembly will become not only an interesting and useful activity, but also very enjoyable, especially at the moment when the work is successfully completed.

For those who are confident in their abilities, another interesting option is offered round table, which may well serve both at home and on the site.

Video: example of assembling a round table

And one more idea for a kitchen table, which, if not true, would also be within the power of a skilled owner to implement:

Video: lightweight kitchen table with collapsible design