Many people like houses with hipped roofs. Even though they require the most materials, and therefore the most money, they are popular. Firstly, because they give even a simple “box” a more interesting look. Secondly, because they are durable and reliable. And even though the rafter system of a hipped roof is one of the most complex, it can be developed and made with your own hands.

Types of hipped roofs

Hip roofs are the most expensive and difficult to construct. But despite this, they were and remain popular. And all because they look more attractive than all other types of roofing, they have a high mechanical strength, resist wind and snow loads well. A house with a hipped roof or even a gazebo looks “more solid” than any other.

Even a simple “box” under a 4-pitch roof looks impressive

There are two main types of 4-pitch roofs: hip and hip. The hip roof is suitable for square buildings, the hip one - for rectangular ones. In a hip roof, all four slopes look like triangles and they all converge at one point - in the center of the square.

The classic hip roof has two slopes in the form of trapezoids that converge at the ridge. These slopes are located along the long side of the rectangle. The other two slopes are triangles that are adjacent to the extreme points of the ridge beam.

Despite the fact that there are four slopes in any case, the design and calculation of these roofs are different. The assembly order is also different.

Half-hip

Hip roofing is much more common - after all, there are much more rectangular buildings than square ones. There are several more varieties of it. For example, half-hip ones - Danish and Dutch.

Semi hip roofs- Danish and Dutch

They are good because they make it possible to install full-fledged windows in the vertical part of the side slopes. This allows you to use the under-roof space as a living space. Of course, compared to a full second floor, there is less living space, but construction costs are also not so high.

Slope angle and roof height

The angle of inclination of a hipped roof is determined based on snow and wind loads in your region. The higher the snow load, the higher the ridge must be raised so that the slope is steeper and the snow does not linger in large volumes. In strong winds, on the contrary, the ridge is lowered lower to reduce the area of ​​the slopes and, consequently, the wind load.

Even when choosing the angle of inclination of the roof slopes, they are guided by aesthetic and practical considerations. With aesthetics, everything is more or less clear - the building should look proportional. And it looks better with fairly high roofs - 0.5-0.8 of the height of the first (or only) floor.

Practical considerations come in two directions. First, if the under-roof space is planned to be used as a living space, pay attention to the area that will be comfortable for use. It is more or less comfortable to be in a room with a ceiling height of 1.9 m. And even then, this is for people of average height. If your height is higher than 175 cm, you will have to raise the bar.

On the other hand, the greater the height of the roof, the more materials will be required for its manufacture. And this is the second practical aspect that needs to be taken into account.

There is one more point that should be taken into account: roofing materials have a minimum and maximum slope angle with which this coating can “work”. If you have certain preferences for the type of roofing material, take this factor into account. This determines the height to which the rafter system of a hipped roof should be raised (relative to the walls).

Hip type hip roof rafter system

If a hip roof is made, it is most often a hip roof. Let's talk about it first. The central part of the rafter system repeats the system one to one. The system can also be with layered or hanging rafters. Hanging rafters are installed “in place” - on the roof; two people are enough for such work. Layered roof trusses, in the form of triangles, can be assembled on the ground, and then, ready, lifted and installed. In this case, there is less work at height, but to lift and install ready-made trusses, you need either equipment (a crane) or a team of four or more people.

The main differences between the rafter system of a hip roof are in those places where the rafters are shortened (rafter half-legs) and a hip is formed - triangular slopes. Here diagonal rafters are installed, which are also called rafters. They rest on the outer or inner corners of the building and are longer than ordinary rafter legs. Diagonal rafters must be addressed Special attention, since they bear one and a half load (when compared with neighboring rafters). Therefore, the corner rafter legs are made reinforced - they are assembled from two boards, joining them in width using nails. Also, to support the diagonal rafter legs, additional racks and slopes are installed, which are called a truss block.

Another rafter system of a hip-type hipped roof is distinguished by the fact that the Mauerlat is laid around the perimeter of the building, and not just along long sides boxes. This is understandable - the rafters are located along the perimeter, and not just on two sides, as in a gable roof.

Mauerlat- element of the roofing system of a building. It is a beam or log laid on top along the perimeter of the outer wall. Serves as the extreme lower support for the rafters.

Diagonal rafters

As already mentioned, slanted (corner) rafters carry an increased load: from the shortened rafters of the side slopes and from the hips. In addition, the length of the diagonal rafters of a hip roof usually exceeds standard length lumber - it is more than 6 meters, so they are made spliced ​​and doubled (paired). This solves two problems at once: we obtain a beam of the required length and increase its load-bearing capacity. Two paired boards can withstand greater loads than solid timber the same section. And one more point: spliced ​​beams for slanted rafters are made of the same material as ordinary rafter legs. It's cheaper, and you don't need to look for special material.

If spliced ​​beams are used, diagonal rafters are usually secured by installing struts and/or trusses (racks).

• If the length of the beam is up to 7.5 m, one strut is sufficient, which rests on the upper part of the beam.
• For lengths from 7.5 m to 9 m, an additional stand or truss is installed. These supports are placed at the bottom, 1/4 of the length of the rafters.
• If the length of the inclined rafter is more than 9 meters, a third one is needed, intermediate support- a stand that supports the middle of the run.

Sprengel- a special system that consists of a beam resting on two adjacent external walls. A stand rests on this beam, supported on both sides by slopes (the slopes are installed if necessary).

A truss truss is usually not considered, but is made from the same materials as the truss system. For the beam itself 150*100 mm, for the racks - 100*100 mm, for the slopes - 50*100 mm. This can be a beam of a suitable cross-section or spliced ​​beams.

Supporting the rafter leg

The diagonal rafter legs rest on the upper end ridge beam. The exact execution of this assembly depends on the type of system and the number of runs.

If there is only one purlin, the consoles are made 10-15 cm longer than the rafter frame. If such an outlet is too large, it is then trimmed. But it’s not worth making it shorter - growing it is much more difficult and expensive. The slanted diagonal legs will rest at this point.

The rafters are cut at the desired angle and joined on the console. Fastened with nails. The connection can be strengthened using metal overlay plates.

If there are two ridge spans (done if residential premises are planned mansard type), the connection method depends on the material from which the rafters are made:

• If spliced ​​boards are used, a truss is required, which rests on the outriggers of the ridge girders. Diagonal rafters are trimmed and supported on a truss post.
• If timber is used, a crimp is installed at the point of support - a piece of board at least 50 mm thick. The board is attached with nails to two purlins, and to this board there are already rafter legs that will form a hip.

The lower part of the slanted rafter legs is trimmed horizontally and attached to the mauerlat or trim board. For greater reliability of the unit, you can install an additional oblique beam and fix the corner beam to it (in the figure below).

Fastening - with nails on both sides; if necessary, it can be additionally secured with wire twists or clamps.

How to attach sprigs and half-legs

Shortened rafters of the side slopes (also called half-legs) are attached to the installed diagonal rafter legs on one side, and on the other side - rafters that form a hip. They must be placed in such a way that the joints do not coincide. Sometimes for this you have to change the distance between the external rafters (preferably in the direction of decreasing the pitch).

Typically, shortened rafters are trimmed and secured with 2-3 nails on both sides. This type of fastening is sufficient in most cases. But, if you want to do it “correctly”, under each rafter you need to make a “notch” - a notch no more than half the thickness of the beam. The rafters are trimmed, installed in the desired position, and the desired contour is drawn on the beam (an uneven trapezoid is obtained due to different connection angles). A recess is cut out along the resulting contour, into which the half-leg is inserted, after which it is secured with nails on both sides. This is a complex knot, and it takes a long time to do. But load bearing capacity such a connection is much higher. There is another option, which is much simpler in execution, but differs little in reliability.

The optimal way to attach the splints and half-legs to the mowing beam is to fasten them on nails with the additional installation of cranial bars (see figure above). For this, a beam with a cross section of 50*50 mm is used, which is nailed along the lower edge of the beam between the fixed rafters. In this version, the beam becomes an I-beam, which greatly increases its elasticity and increases its load-bearing capacity.

How to fasten the lower ends of the rafters

The method of fastening the lower ends of the rafters depends on what type of rafter system of the hipped roof is chosen - with hanging or layered rafters, and what kind of scheme is used. A system with sliding rafters (usually used for buildings for which thrust loads are contraindicated - wooden, frame, lightweight concrete) is implemented using special metal fasteners. They consist of two parts. One is installed on the embedded board, the second - on the rafters. They are connected to each other movably - using a long slot or plate.

With this device, when the load changes, the roof “plays back” - the rafters move relative to the walls. There are no thrust loads; the entire mass of the roof and precipitation is transferred vertically downwards to the walls. This fastening allows you to compensate for uneven loads that arise with a complex roof structure (with junctions in the form of the letter G or T).

Rigid fastening can be done in different ways - with a cutout for the Mauerlat/tying board or with a hemmed support bar. Fastening is usually done with nails; it can be reinforced with metal plates and corners.

The connection with the cutout is made if the roof has a hipped roof with an outlet - overhangs. Usually the overhangs are quite large and, in order not to buy long beams, they are extended by adding boards that are nailed right through to the bottom of the beams. This allows you to make the overhangs as long as you want without overspending on materials.

Danish half hip roof

The rafter system of a Danish-type hipped roof differs from the classic hip roof. The difference is in the design of the hip - here, at some distance from the ridge, a support board with a thickness of at least 5 cm is packed. Diagonal double rafters are attached to this board. How low to lower the support board is your choice. But the lower the board is lowered, the smaller the angle this slope will have, and the worse the precipitation will be. If the half-hip area is large, you will have to calculate the load and select the thickness of the rafters.

But the low-lowered support board allows you to place horizontal window sufficient area. This is beneficial if there is a living space under a hipped hip roof.

To prevent the crimp (a board connecting two opposite rafter legs) from bending from downward loads, a short piece is installed - a piece of the same board that is nailed to the post supporting the ridge beam. The same stops are made on the edges of the grooves, securing the short ones well with nails (installation step is staggered every 5-10 cm).

With such a device, it is necessary to strengthen the attachment points of the layered rafters, since the load from them is transferred to the outer pair of rafter legs. Two methods of amplification are used:

• The outer rafters are made double.
• Install struts from double boards. The lower part of the strut rests on the bench or stand. They are fastened with nails, and the joints are reinforced by installing cuttings of boards.

If the house is rectangular in shape and the hips are not too wide, you can either install braces or make the outer rafters from double beams. Otherwise, the rafter system of a half-hip Danish type hip roof is assembled in exactly the same way as described above.

Construction of a 4 pitched hipped roof using the example of a gazebo

For a square gazebo 4.5*4.5 meters, we made a hip roof covered soft tiles. The slope angle chosen was “floor material”, taking into account snow and wind loads - 30°. Since the structure is small, it was decided to make a simple system (in the figure below). The distance between the rafter legs is 2.25 m. For rafter lengths up to 3.5 m, a board of 40 * 200 mm is needed. A 90*140 mm beam was used for the strapping.

We assembled the rafter system on the ground, secured it to support posts, then installed a continuous flooring made of, then -.

First, we assembled the harness that will be attached to the support posts. Next, we installed rafters that rest on the middle of the frame. The procedure here is as follows: in the middle we place a stand, on top of which the rafter legs will be joined. In this version, this rack is temporary, we only need it for a while - until we connect the first four rafters in the center. In other cases - for big houses- this stand can remain.

We take a board of the required section, lean it against the rack in the place where they will connect (depending on desired angle tilt). We mark how it should be cut (at the top, at the joint and where it joins the harness). We cut off everything unnecessary, try it on again, and adjust if necessary. Next, using this blank, we make three more of the same kind.

Now you can begin to assemble the rafter system of the hipped hipped roof. The most questions arise about the junction of the rafter legs in the center. The best way- reliable and not too complicated - take a piece of timber of a suitable cross-section, make an octagon out of it - for joining eight rafter legs (four corner and four central).

The size of the edges is according to the cross-section of the rafter legs

Having fixed all four central elements of the rafter system with nails, we perform the same operations with the corner rafters: we take one, try it on, cut it out, make three copies using the template we made, and mount it.

Using the same principle, we make half-legs (shortened rafters). If desired, all connections can be further strengthened with corners or metal plates, then the rafter system of the hipped roof will be more reliable and you will not be afraid even in the heaviest snowfalls.

We install the assembled system on the gazebo posts, fasten it with nails, corners, and secure it with slopes. After this, you can install the sheathing (in this case, solid) and lay the roofing material.

Building a house with your own hands is a long and labor-intensive process, and also very expensive in terms of finances. If you wish, you can save on roof installation and do the installation of a 4-pitch roof yourself.

Hip roof- the most popular type of roofing, which is also quite easy to construct with my own hands. If you have at least minimal skills and experience construction work, then, following the instructions, you can build the roof yourself. The choice of a 4-pitch design is explained by its many advantages - effective drainage of rainwater and snow, resistance to wind loads. Under such a roof you can build a spacious attic. The cost of constructing a roof also plays an important role; a 4-pitch roof is a fairly economical option.

Kinds

There are several types of roofs with 4 slopes. The most popular is the so-called hip roof. It consists of two trapezoids and two triangles. Trapezoidal slopes are connected to each other along the upper edge, and triangular ones are connected to them from the front sides.

Another common option is four triangular surfaces connected at one central point. You can also create almost any project that includes slopes at different levels, different shapes, with a broken connection line, etc.

If you are not a construction professional, then when creating a 4-pitch roof, choose a hip roof as it is the easiest to install.

How to make a 4-pitch roof with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction

Before you begin installing the roof, you should draw up a project. You can do the calculations yourself, as there is nothing complicated about it. The main thing is to understand what this or that parameter in the diagram depends on.

Slope angle

When calculating the slope angle of the slopes, three indicators are used:

precipitation in the region

roof material

The slope can be from 5 to 60 degrees. You should also consider whether you will be developing an attic space. If the slopes are too flat, the height of the attic will be small - living room it will be impossible to do here. Thus, for the construction of an attic, the slope of the slopes should be no more than 45 degrees.

If the area is characterized by frequent gusty winds or large amounts of precipitation in winter time, you should not make a roof with an angle of less than 30 degrees.

If the slope is 60 degrees or more, then atmospheric phenomena climate zone can be ignored.

As for the roofing material, building codes minimum values ​​are provided for each of them.

• Rolled materials made from bitumen can be laid horizontally.
• Asbestos cement and clay tiles - at an angle of 9 degrees.
• Roofing materials made of steel - slope of 18 degrees or more.
• Wood - from 34 degrees.

Height

The height of the roof is the parameter that will need to be calculated. We know the area of ​​the base since the box is built. The angle of the roof was calculated at the previous stage. Thus, by applying simple formulas from the school curriculum, it will be possible to calculate the height of the ridge.

Preparation. Required tools and materials

Prepare all the necessary tools in advance so as not to be distracted by searching for them later. You will need:

• hacksaw
• measuring instruments: plumb line, level and tape measure
• chisel
• circular saw
• drill
• screwdriver
• hammer

From materials the main role allocated to the roof covering. Do not forget also about the fasteners with which it will be attached to the rafter system.

For sheathing hipped roof High-quality lumber is used, larch or pine wood is suitable.

The maximum humidity of boards and beams is 22%.

• For rafters - boards 50 x 100 mm or 50 x 200 mm
• For Mauerlat - timber 150 x 150 mm or more
• Sheathing boards

Also purchase metal threaded studs and metal plates - these elements will be used for fastening. You will also need an antiseptic to pre-treat the wood. To complete the roof installation as quickly as possible, prepare hydro- and thermal insulation material, which are provided for by the project.

Rafter system

1. Mauerlat. This is the base of the rafter system, which is made of thick timber. If you are making a roof on a log house, then the role of the mauerlat will be played by the last crown of the log house. If the house is brick, then the installation of the Mauerlat is also planned in advance. A concrete belt is made under it, into which metal studs are walled up. The timber is subsequently fixed to them.
2. Ridge run. This is the uppermost part of the system, a thick beam on which the rafter boards will subsequently be attached.
3. Rafters. These elements are boards from which the main frame is created.
   • diagonal rafters connect the corners of the mauerlat and the ridge girder
   • row rafters are mounted on trapezoidal slopes
   • the rafter half-legs rest on the mauerlat, and on the other side - on the diagonal rafters
4. Sill. It is installed parallel to the ridge girder on the load-bearing wall. Its task is to transfer part of the weight of the roof to the frame.
5. Support posts. They connect the bed and the ridge girder, making the structure more durable.
6. Struts. They rest on the beam and support the diagonal rafters to reduce the load on them.
7. Other auxiliary structural elements - truss, tightening, fillies, crossbars. They support certain parts of the sheathing and relieve the load from them.

Stages of frame installation work

1. Installation of the Mauerlat and the bench.
2. Installation of vertical posts in increments of 1000 - 1200 mm.
3. Fastening the ridge girder.
4. Installation of rafter legs. First, one element is made and fitted to the Mauerlat and ridge girder. The rest of the parts are made on its basis. The installation pitch of the rafter legs is 600 or 1200 mm.
5. Installation of diagonal rafters. The fastening begins from the top, the boards are cut into the ridge so that they become its continuation. They are attached from below in the corners of the Mauerlat.
6. Fastening of sprigs.
7. Installation of struts and trusses. These elements are not always necessary. If the structure is strong enough without them, then there is no need for installation.

   Additional elements are required if the length of the rafters is 6 meters or more. In other cases - at your discretion.

8. Installation of waterproofing. The selected material is fastened using a construction stapler.
9. Sheathing flooring. If it is solid, regular plywood will do. Boards are used for the lattice frame.
10. Laying roofing material. Fastening is carried out exclusively in a way that is suitable for the specifically selected building material. It is best to use the fasteners included in the kit.
11. Installation of a drainage system. This is the final part of the roof installation work.

If you plan to use the attic space as a residential attic, you need to insulate it from the inside. Then all that remains is to carry out the finishing work - and the roof is ready for use both outside and inside.

• If you are not confident in your own knowledge, you can order a hip roof project from professionals. It is often done at the same time as the house project. In any case, it will cost less than restoring the roof after installation according to incorrect parameters.
• If you know computer programs, you can create a roof layout in 3D projection.
• Don't skimp on materials. Before installation, carefully check all boards for strength and treat them with an antiseptic. There should be no cracks, bends or irregularities on the elements. For the rafter system, materials of grade 1 and higher are used.
• Before installing the Mauerlat, the surface of the walls can be covered with roofing felt.
• The Mauerlat must be fastened very firmly so that it does not move even a fraction of a millimeter during operation. This is the basis of the entire rafter system, on which the strength of the roof depends.
• Compound rafter elements between themselves is carried out using metal corners, which are firmly attached to the connected elements with bolts.

Thus, it is quite possible to make a hipped hip roof with your own hands if you have at least basic construction skills. All you need is careful preparation, studying theory and drawing up a detailed project with calculation of the amount of materials needed.

An example of the construction of a hip roof can be seen in the following video:

Construction of a frame for a roof with four slopes is a complex process with characteristic technological features. During construction, our own structural components are used, the sequence of work is different. But the result will amaze with its spectacular shape and durability when repelling atmospheric attacks. And the home master will be able to be proud of his personal achievements in the field of roofing.

However, before deciding to install such a design, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the algorithm according to which the rafter system of a hipped roof is constructed and with the specifics of its design.

Class of four pitched roofs combines two types of structures that resemble a square and rectangular envelope in plan. The first variety is called tent, the second - hip. Compared to their pitched counterparts, they are distinguished by the absence of pediments, called gables in the roofing industry. In the construction of both variants of hipped structures, layered and hanging rafters are used, the installation of which is carried out in accordance with standard technologies for the construction of pitched rafter systems.

Characteristic differences within the four-slope class:

• In a hip roof, all four slopes have the shape of isosceles triangles, the vertices of which converge at one highest point. There is no ridge as such in a tent structure; its function is performed by the central support in layered systems or the top of a hanging truss.
• For a hip roof, a pair of main slopes has a trapezoidal configuration, and the second pair has a triangular configuration. The hip structure differs from its tent-type counterpart in the obligatory presence of a ridge, to which the trapezoids are adjacent at the upper bases. Triangular slopes, also known as hips, are adjacent to the ridge at the top, and their sides are connected to the inclined sides of the trapezoids.

Based on the configuration of the roofs in plan, it is clear that hipped structures are usually erected over square buildings, and hip structures over rectangular houses. Both soft and . The characteristic square or rectangular shape is repeated in the drawings of the rafter system of a hipped roof with a clearly marked arrangement of elements in the plan and vertical projections of the slopes.

Often, hip and hip systems are used together in the construction of one building or effectively complement gable, lean-to, sloping and other roofs.

Structures with four slopes can rest directly on the upper crown of a wooden house or on the Mauerlat, which serves as the top frame of brick or concrete walls. If you can find upper and lower supports under each rafter, roof frame It is constructed using layered technology.

Installation of layered rafter legs is simpler and more accessible for an inexperienced home roofer, who needs to take into account that:

• When rigidly fastening the upper and lower heels of the rafters with metal corners or using a supporting wooden plate, reinforced fastening of the Mauerlat will be required, because the thrust will be transferred to it.
• If the upper heel is rigidly fixed and the bottom of the rafter is hinged, there is no need to strengthen the fastening of the Mauerlate, because if the load on the roof is exceeded, a hinged fastening, for example on sliders, will allow the rafter to move slightly without creating pressure on the mauerlat.
• When the top of the rafters is hinged and the bottom is rigidly fixed, expansion and pressure on the Mauerlat are also eliminated.

Issues of fastening the Mauerlat and the closely related method of installing rafter legs according to the rules are resolved at the stage of designing a house. If the building does not have an internal load-bearing wall or it is not possible to build reliable supports for central part roof, nothing will work except for a hanging rafter system assembly diagram. True, in most cases the layered construction method is used, for the implementation of which it is necessary to provide in advance a load-bearing support inside the structure.

In the construction of rafter systems for hipped and hipped roofs, specific structural elements, This:

• Diagonal rafter legs forming the spinal connections of the slopes. In hip structures, diagonals, also known as slanted rafters, connect the ridge girder consoles to the corners of the roof. In tent systems, sloping legs connect the top to the corners.
• Spreaders, or rafter half-legs, installed perpendicular to the eaves. They rest on diagonal rafters and are located parallel to each other, therefore they differ in different lengths. Narozhniki form the planes of tent and hip slopes.

Diagonal rafters and flanges are also used for the construction of valleys, only then concave corners of the roof are arranged, and not convex ones like hip ones.

The whole difficulty of constructing frames for roofs with four slopes lies in the installation of diagonal rafters, which determine the result of the formation of the structure. In addition, the slopes must withstand a load one and a half times greater than ordinary rafters of pitched roofs. Because they also work as a hobbyhorse, i.e. support for the upper heel of the runners.

If we briefly describe the procedure for constructing a layered frame for a hipped roof, then it can be done in several stages:

• Installation of a mauerlat on brick or concrete walls. The process of installing a mauerlat on walls made of logs or timber can be eliminated, because it can be successfully replaced by the upper crown.
• Installation of the central support for the hip structure or the supporting frame of the main part of the hip roof.
• Installation of conventional layered rafters: pairs for a hip roof and a certain design solution rows for hip construction.
• Installation of diagonal rafter legs connecting the corners of the systems with the top of the support or the extreme points of the ridge.
• Manufacturing to size and fastening of spigots.

In the case of using a hanging frame scheme, the start of the construction of a tent frame will be the installation of a triangular roof truss in the center. The installation of a four-slope hip rafter system will begin with the installation of a number of roof trusses.

Construction of a hip rafter system

Let's look at one of the common examples of a hip roof with layered rafter legs. They will have to rely on floor beams laid on top of the mauerlat. Rigid fastening with a notch will be used only to fix the top of the rafter legs on the ridge girder, so there is no need to strengthen the Mauerlat fasteners. The dimensions of the box of the house shown in the example are 8.4 × 10.8 m. The actual dimensions of the roof in plan will increase on each side by the amount of the eaves overhang, by 40-50cm.

Installation of the base according to the Mauerlat

Mauerlat is a purely individual element; the method of its installation depends on the material of the walls and the architectural features of the building. The method of laying the Mauerlat is planned according to the rules during the design period, because for reliable fixation of the Mauerlat it is recommended:

• Lightweight foam concrete, gas silicate and similar walls should be equipped with a reinforced reinforced concrete belt, poured around the perimeter, with anchors installed during the pouring period to secure the Mauerlat.
• Edge the brick walls with a side of one or two bricks along the outer edge so that a ledge is formed along the inner edge for laying wooden frame. During laying, wooden plugs are placed between the bricks to secure the Mauerlat with staples to the wall.

The mauerlat is made from timber measuring 150×150 or 100×150mm. If you intend to use the under-roof space, it is advisable to take thicker beams. The timber is connected into a single frame with oblique cuts. Then the connection areas are reinforced with self-tapping screws, ordinary nails or wood grouse, and the corners are reinforced with staples.

Floor beams are laid on top of the horizontally leveled mauerlat, constructed in the optimal way for a particular building. A beam with a cross section of 100×200mm is used. The first step is to lay a beam running exactly along the central axis of the building. In the example, the length of the timber is not enough to construct solid beams, so they are assembled from two beams. The docking point must be located above a reliable support. In the example, the support is an internal load-bearing wall.

The pitch between the floor beams is 60 cm. If the box being equipped does not have ideal parameters, as is the case in most situations, the distance between the beams can be changed slightly. Such an adjustment allows you to slightly “smooth out” the flaws in construction. Between the outer beams on both sides and the walls of the house there should be a gap of 90 cm wide, necessary for installing the outriggers.

Because the floor beams can independently form only two eaves overhangs; short half-beams of the floor - extensions - are attached to their ends. They are first installed only in the area of ​​the main part of the hip roof, exactly where the rafter legs are to be installed. The extension is nailed to the mauerlat, fastened to the beam with screws, large-caliber nails, dowels, and the fasteners are reinforced with corners.

Construction of the ridge part

The central part of the hip roof is an ordinary gable structure. The rafter system for it is arranged according to the rules dictated by. In the example there are some deviations from the classical interpretation of the pitched principle: the bed on which supports for the ridge run are traditionally installed is not used. The work of the beam will have to be done by the central floor beam.

In order to build the ridge part of the hip roof rafter system you need to:

• Build a support frame for the rafter legs, the top of which will rest on the ridge girder. The purlin will rest on three supports, the central one of which is installed directly on the central floor beam. To install the two outer supports, first two cross beams are laid, covering at least five floor beams. Stability is increased with the help of two struts. For the manufacture of horizontal and vertical parts of the supporting frame, a block with a cross-section of 100x150mm was used, the struts were made of boards 50x150mm.
• Make rafter legs, for which you first need to make a template. A board of suitable size is applied to the installation site, and lines for future cuts are drawn on it. This will be the template for the continuous production of rafters.
• Install the rafter legs, resting them with the notch on the ridge girder, and with the lower heel on the stem located opposite.

If the floor beams were laid across the frame, then the rafters of the main part of the roof would rest on the floor beams, which is much more reliable. However, in the example they rest on the stem, so it is necessary to arrange additional mini-supports for them. These supports should be positioned so that the load from them and the rafters located above is transferred to the walls.

Then three rows of outriggers are installed on each of the four sides. For the convenience of further actions, the roof contour is formed with a cornice board. It must be nailed to the floor beams and extensions strictly horizontally.

Installation of corner extensions

In the space limited by the eaves board, there were corner areas left unfilled with parts of the rafter system. Here you will need corner offsets, for installation of which is carried out as follows:

• To indicate the direction of installation, pull the string. We stretch from the point of conditional intersection of the outer support of the frame with the floor beam to the corner.
• On top of the lace we place the block in its place. Holding the block, we outline the cut lines from below where the block intersects the floor beam and corner connection cornice boards.
• We attach the finished stem with sawn off excess to the mauerlat and to the floor beam with corners.

The remaining three corner extensions are manufactured and installed in the same way.

Installation of diagonal rafters

Diagonal, or also slanted, rafter legs are made from two boards sewn together with a cross-section equal to the size of ordinary rafters. In the example, one of the boards will be located slightly higher than the second due to the difference in the angles of inclination of the hips and trapezoidal slopes.

Sequence of work for the manufacture and installation of slopes:

• From the highest point of the skate, we stretch the lace to the corners and to the central point of the slope. These are auxiliary lines along which we will mark upcoming cuts.
• Using a carpenter's goniometer, we measure the angle between the lace and the upper side of the corner stem. This is how the angle of the bottom cut is determined. Let's assume it is equal to α. The angle of the upper cut is calculated using the formula β = 90º – α.
• At an angle β we cut off one edge of a random piece of board. We apply it to the place of the upper fastening, aligning the edge of this workpiece with the lace. We outline the excesses that interfere with a tight installation. You need to cut again along the marked lines.
• At an angle α we saw off the lower heel on another piece of board.
• We make the first half of the diagonal rafter using templates for the upper and lower support. If a solid board is not long enough, you can join two pieces together. They can be spliced ​​using a meter-long piece of inch mounted on self-tapping screws; it should be placed on the outside of the bevel leg being constructed. We install the finished first part.
• We make the second part of the sloped rafter in the same way, but keep in mind that it should be slightly lower than its first half. The area where the boards are joined into one element should not coincide with the area where the boards are joined in the first half of the slope.
• We sew two boards with nails at intervals of 40-50 cm.
• Along the cord stretched to the center of the slope, we draw a line along which it will be necessary to adjust the cut to connect it with the adjacent rafter.

Following the described algorithm, you need to install three more diagonal legs. Supports should be installed under each of them at the point where the corner extensions are connected to the beams. If the span is more than 7.5 m, another support is installed diagonally closer to the ridge.

Manufacturing and installation of hip rafters

The lace between the top of the skate and the center of the slope is already stretched. It served as an axis for outlining the cuts, and now you need to measure the angle γ using it and calculate the angle δ = 90º – γ. Without deviating from the proven path, we prepare templates for the upper and lower supports. We apply the top trim to the place intended for it and mark the cut lines on it for a tight fit between the diagonal rafters. Using the blanks, we make the central leg of the hip and fix it where it should be.

We install short extensions in the space between the corner extensions and the cornice board to add rigidity to the structure and to ensure strong fixation of the outermost, shortest extensions. Next, you should start making templates for the makers themselves:

• We cut the piece of board at an angle δ and attach it to the place of attachment to the diagonal rafter.
• We outline the excess that needs to be cut down again. The resulting template is used in the manufacture of all flaps, for example the right side of the hip. For the left part, the upper template will be filed from the opposite side.
• As a template for the lower heel of the splices, we use a piece of board sawn off at an angle γ. If all previous actions were performed correctly, then this template is used to make the lower attachment points for all other spigots.

In accordance with the actual length and “indications” of the templates, the splices are made, which are necessary for forming the planes of the hips and the parts of the main slopes that are not filled with ordinary rafter legs. They are installed so that the upper fastening points of the spigots to the diagonal rafters are spaced apart, i.e. the upper connecting nodes of adjacent slopes should not converge in one place. The splices are attached to the slanted rafter leg with corners, to the floor beams and outriggers in the way that is more reasonable and convenient: with corners or metal toothed plates.

The technology for installing a hip roof is based on the already familiar hip principles. True, there is no ridge part of the rafter system in their design. The construction begins with the installation of a central support, to which the rafters are attached, and then the frames. If hanging technology is used in the construction of an envelope roof, then the finished truss is installed first.

We invite you to use our free online calculator to calculate building materials when installing a hip roof - and follow the instructions.

Useful video instructions

The video will briefly introduce the sequence and rules for installing the rafter system of a hipped roof of the hip and hip categories:

Having become familiar with the specifics of the device and having mastered the intricacies of installing roofs with four slopes, you can safely begin to implement plans for its construction.

The construction of a frame for a hipped roof is a labor-intensive and complex process with characteristic features. This will require precise calculations and a strict installation sequence. However, the result will amaze you with the solidity and reliability of the design with an impressive shape. Before you begin creating this frame, you should study the features and algorithm of actions by which the rafter system of a gable roof is erected.

Rafter system of a hipped roof: components and design advantages

A hip roof consists of a rectangular base and four inclined slopes. The two end surfaces are triangular in shape. They replace gables, as in gable roof. The other two slopes are called facade. Their shape resembles a trapezoid. The angle of inclination of the surfaces ranges from 15 to 60 degrees. Attic or dormer windows, bay windows, and cuckoo windows are placed on inclined slopes, which creates an even more respectable appearance of the roof.

This design has its advantages over other types of mansard roofs:

• the design is more resistant to intense gusts of wind, which occurs due to the absence of gables;
• thanks to the large number of slopes, rain and melt water are more efficiently drained from the roof surface;
• The special design of the rafter frame allows you to get a spacious attic room, which is especially important for one-story houses with a hipped roof;
• thanks to the use of wood to create the roof frame and the ability to choose any roofing material, construction hipped design will not be much more expensive than the construction of a gable.

The structure of a hipped roof includes the following mandatory elements:

• the ridge, which is located at the top of the roof and is the intersection of the inclined slopes;
• four inclined surfaces, which are located at a certain angle to the rectangular base of the roof and covered with roofing material;

• overhangs are parts of the roof formed by fillets or extensions of rafter legs protruding beyond its perimeter, which protect the walls from moisture;
• rafter frame that forms the geometry of the roof and is hidden under the roofing material;
• roofing pie, consisting of a hydro-, heat- and vapor barrier layer, which is placed on the rafter frame in order to insulate the building and protect it from negative impacts environment;
• drainage system that provides drainage excess water from the roof surface. It is represented by an external drain, which includes a gutter, a water inlet funnel and a vertical pipe;
• Snow guards are small horizontal sides located along the edges of inclined slopes and prevent the collapse of the snow mass accumulated on the roof.

The diagram of a hipped roof allows you to study its design more clearly and in detail.

Construction of a roof truss system made of wooden elements

The rafter system, the photos clearly show this, is a wooden frame on which the hipped roof rests. It contains many mandatory and auxiliary elements, which are made mainly from coniferous wood. The drawing of the hip roof truss system shows the following elements:

• Mauerlat in the form of four beams with a cross section of 10×10 cm or 15×15 cm, located around the perimeter load-bearing walls, designed to absorb the load from the roof and distribute it evenly on the load-bearing walls of the building;
• bench - a wooden beam that is placed on the internal load-bearing wall and serves as a support for the racks used in the layered rafter system;
• rafter legs in the form wooden planks cross-section 5×5 cm or 10×15 cm define the geometry of inclined slopes and are the basis for roofing pie.
• the ridge girder is the highest point of the roof and is represented by a wooden beam resting on vertical racks. The rafter legs are attached to them;

• the racks are represented by vertical supports mounted on a bench and serve to support the ridge girder and the middle of the rafter leg;
• struts, wooden blocks, attached to the rafter legs at an angle and preventing them from bending;
• The crossbar and tie are represented by horizontal jumpers made of metal or wood, which connect pairs of rafters, while reducing the load pushing on the walls. The crossbar is installed in the upper part of the rafter legs, and the tie is installed in the lower part.
• truss trusses - vertical risers for sloped rafters;
• the sheathing is the basis for installing the roofing material. It can be solid or lattice, which is determined by the type of roofing.

During the installation of the rafter system of a hipped roof, layered, outer and ordinary rafters are used. The layer elements radiate from the ridge to two opposite corners of the house. They form triangular end inclined surfaces. Ordinary rafters are mounted along the ridge girder in pairs. They form trapezoidal façade slopes. The external elements, having different lengths, rest on the layered rafters of their top part.

Types of hipped roofs. Photos of interesting options

Hip-slope roofs include several types of structures that have the same number of inclined surfaces, but different structures.

The classic design is a hip design, as can be seen in the photo of a house with a hipped roof. It consists of two triangular slopes and two trapezoidal ones. The place where they connect is called the ridge, which is much shorter than the length of the house. A hip roof is a highly complex structure, the design and installation of which is a very labor-intensive and complex process that requires certain skills and experience.

This design is suitable for the base of a rectangular building. This is the most aesthetically attractive roof option. However, it is also the most complex, both in terms of the necessary calculations and in terms of construction technology, since it uses a complicated rafter frame, which is proven by the diagram of the rafter system, which requires additional measurements and adjustment of the material on site.

The half-hip Dutch roof is both a gable and a hipped roof. It consists of two inclined trapezoidal slopes and two truncated triangular hips. Small hips do not completely replace gables, which makes it possible to install simple vertical windows, which are much cheaper than attic ones. In the photos presented on the Internet, you can see various designs of houses with a hipped roof of this type.

The half-hip Danish design has four trapezoidal slopes, which differ in size. The truncated hips extend not from the ridge, but a little lower, leaving room for a triangular pediment. This is where the auditory or vertical window for additional natural light, as seen in the photo of a house with a hipped roof. This design is the most resistant to strong winds. Therefore, it is advisable to install it for houses located in areas with increased wind activity.

The hipped mansard roof consists of two triangular hips and two broken surfaces with a varying angle of inclination. Such a complex structure helps to obtain a dimensional attic with high ceiling, which is especially important for one-story houses. Projects with a hipped roof of this design are clear proof of this.

The hipped hip roof is erected on square-shaped buildings, mainly used for frame houses. The rafter system does not provide for a ridge run. The design consists of inclined surfaces of the same size and triangular shape, which are connected at a peak.

How to calculate a hipped roof?

Before building a hipped roof, it is necessary to make all the calculations, which determine the amount of material for constructing the rafter frame, installing the roofing pie and laying the roof. The calculation can be done using special computer programs and a drawing of a hipped roof. However, it is better to do this yourself, using elementary mathematical formulas.

Helpful advice! At this stage, you should choose a roofing material, which will determine the angle of the roof. The sharper it is, the longer the roof slope and the greater the material consumption.

At the first stage, the angle of inclination of the slopes is determined. It depends on the climatic characteristics of a particular region, the intended purpose of the attic space, and the choice of roofing material, the calculation of which can be seen in the diagrams located on specialized sites on the Internet.

The tilt angle can be from 5 to 60 degrees. For regions with heavy precipitation and strong winds, you should choose an inclination angle in the range from 45 to 60 degrees. If the region is characterized by little snowy winters, rare rains and low-intensity winds, then the angle can be chosen much smaller.

For an inclination angle of 5-18 degrees. preference should be given roll materials, for an angle of 14-30 degrees. It is advisable to use asbestos cement sheets or.

Next, the height of the roof ridge is calculated. For this, special tables are used or trigonometric formulas for a right triangle. After this, it is necessary to calculate the rafters, the cross-section of which is selected taking into account the load. Weight is taken into account here truss structure, roofing pie, the angle of inclination of the slopes and environmental influences. Next, the pitch of the rafters is determined, followed by checking their load-bearing capacity.

When drawing up a drawing of a hipped roof, you should decide on the structure of the rafter system. The type of rafter system, the diagrams clearly display this, are selected based on the method of fastening the rafters. Houses with load-bearing walls or pillar supports require the use of layered rafters. Where it is not possible to provide support, hanging rafters should be installed.

Related article:

Design and benefits of hip roofs. Basic elements, diagram, models with a bay window. Calculation and development of drawings. DIY installation.

How to calculate the area of ​​a hipped roof and calculate the roof covering?

The calculation of a hipped roof is carried out in compliance with certain rules:

1. The general drawing of the structure of the rafter system of a hipped roof must be divided into separate geometric figures with application of all sizes.
2. The length of the slope is determined by measuring the distance from the ridge to the extreme line of the eaves.
3. The area of ​​all figures is calculated using mathematical formulas.
4. Each inclined roof slope is calculated using the formula, where the area of ​​the figure should be multiplied by the cosine of the angle, which corresponds to the location of the roofing material.
5. If the inclined slope has the shape of an irregular triangle, it must be divided into regular shapes and a calculation must be performed.
6. After receiving data for each of the elements, the final values ​​are summed up.

When calculating the total area of ​​a hipped roof, there is no need to subtract the area values ​​of small elements such as dormers, chimneys, skylights or parapets. Their areas are so small that they will not lead to large financial costs.

Important! It should be remembered that the area of ​​the roof does not coincide with the area of ​​the roofing material.

Each roofing material has the peculiarity of being laid with an overlap, the amount of which depends on the specific type of product, which accordingly increases material consumption.

When calculating the roofing material, it is necessary to add 15% of the stock of material to the total roof area, which overlaps. You should also take into account the amount of waste, for which you need to add another 20%.

Having obtained the result, it is necessary to correctly calculate the amount of sheet roofing material. For this general meaning divided by the area of ​​one sheet. The length of the sheet of material is determined by the height of the slope. However, it should be remembered that the longer the sheet, the more difficult the process of transporting it. Therefore, based on the roof area, the most suitable size is selected.

If the roof has large dimensions, it is better to give preference to soft roofing materials, the use of which generates a minimum amount of waste. However, it should be borne in mind that these coatings require a device continuous sheathing, which increases additional costs.

How to make a hip roof at home with your own hands?

Constructing a hip roof structure with your own hands, drawings and photos posted on the Internet will help in this matter, is a labor-intensive but doable process that requires correct calculations and a certain sequence of actions.

The roof truss system is a powerful and durable frame that can withstand all roof loads, including roofing pie and roofing. The reliability and strength of the roof depends on the correct and accurate calculation of the load on the rafter system.

It must withstand permanent and temporary impacts. The constants include the weight of the roof, the weight of all elements of the rafter frame, and the mass of the roofing pie. Temporary impacts include the influence of the environment, the weight of workers and equipment when performing repair work on the roof.

Having a diagram of the rafter system in front of you, you can begin to build a wooden frame. First you need to install the main structural elements on which the rafter legs are attached.

Do-it-yourself installation of a rafter system structure begins with arranging the base for the future frame. To do this, a mauerlat is installed, which is erected along the perimeter of the upper row of load-bearing side walls. Next, you should install the bench for the ridge support and mount the vertical posts. They must be located strictly at an angle of 90 degrees. The slightest deviations can lead to deformation of the entire structure. The pitch of the racks is no more than 2 m. It is necessary to attach a ridge beam to the racks, the cross-section of which is selected taking into account the load of the central part of the rafter frame.

Helpful advice! For large-sized roofing structures It is advisable to install several beds.

• installation of diagonal rafters, the lower part of which is attached to the mauerlat by cutting;
• installation of central rafters;
• installation of corner rafters that are attached to diagonal beams;
• installation of a tie, which is used to secure the legs of the skate;
• installation of central posts, which are attached at one end to the ridge and at the other to the tie (crossbar);
• installation of struts, which are fixed to the rafter leg and crossbar;
• installation of a truss, one part of which is attached to the mauerlat, and the other to the rafter leg.

After this, the sheathing is installed. Then the roofing pie is laid. It consists of a waterproofing, thermal insulation and vapor barrier layer. This is followed by work on the outer covering of the roof with the selected roofing material, observing the specifics of its installation.

Important! The durability and reliability of the entire structure directly depends on how well each attachment point of the roof truss system is made.

If it is not possible to carry out the work yourself, you can use the services of specialists to install the rafter system, the price of which depends on the complexity of the structure, the total area of ​​the roof, the type of roofing, the height of the building, the configuration of the roof and the location of the facility. The price per m2 of rafter system installation starts from 400 rubles.

Installation of roofing pie

The roofing pie of a hipped roof consists of several layers laid in a certain sequence. It is installed on the rafter frame and consists of the following layers:

• vapor barrier layer in the form protective film preventing the penetration of moisture into the under-roof system from the room;
• a heat-insulating layer in the form of insulation placed in the space between the rafters;
• waterproofing layer in the form special material preventing moisture from entering the room;
• lathing in the form of boards to which the roofing covering is mounted.

Important! The quality and durability of the entire roof directly depends on laying the layers of the roofing cake in strict sequence.

Lathing in the form wooden beams with a cross-section of 50×50 mm, it is transversely fastened with nails to the rafters in a continuous layer or with a certain pitch depending on the roof covering. Next, an overlapping vapor barrier is attached to the sheathing using a stapler. Installation of insulation is carried out in the space between the rafters. Next, a waterproofing layer is attached, the installation technology of which is similar to the vapor barrier layer.

Important! During installation, the ridge part deserves special attention, where there is the greatest likelihood of condensate vapor accumulation.

Do-it-yourself hipped roof for a gazebo

Construction of a cozy gazebo on a personal plot is an ideal option for creating a comfortable relaxation area. Depending on the geometric shape of the structure, you can choose the most suitable type of hipped roof.

For a square-shaped gazebo, it is advisable to build a hip roof with four equal-sized triangular slopes connected at one point. For rectangular structures, hip-type hip roofs are ideal.

Despite the fact that this design is more expensive and more complex compared to a gable one, it is the most suitable option for a gazebo. A hip roof is the most appropriate solution for this task for a number of reasons:

• due to the large number of inclined slopes, effective protection from precipitation is provided;
• large overhangs can retain heat for a long time, which accumulates throughout a sunny day;
• inclined slopes protect well from the penetration of intrusive sunlight, without blocking the horizon;

• reliable and rigid design guarantees minimal maintenance and routine repairs;
• affordable building materials make this option ideal and inexpensive solution for constructing a gazebo;
• Due to the fact that the gazebo is a small structure, all installation work on the construction of a hipped roof can be carried out independently.

How to make a hipped roof for a gazebo?

Before starting to build a rafter system for a gazebo, it is necessary to calculate the angle of inclination of the slopes, the height of the ridge and the load for the right choice rafter sections. Having received the result, it is necessary to draw up a drawing of the rafter system, which displays all the dimensions and relative positions of the elements of the rafter frame.

Based on the drawing, the necessary elements are prepared and their subsequent assembly. The construction of a hipped roof for a gazebo consists of the following sequential steps:

1. Reinforcing the top frame of the gazebo frame with a board.
2. Attaching the tie-beam to the harness using metal corners.
3. Having departed the same distance from the middle of the tightening (about 50 cm), you need to install two wooden racks each 100 cm high.
4. Connecting the tops of the posts with a ridge purlin.
5. Installation of ordinary rafters with a selected pitch.
6. Fastening the diagonal rafters with nails to the ridge so that they continue the ridge run.
7. Installation of external rafters, which are attached on one side to the diagonal legs, and on the other side are attached to the upper frame of the structure. The pitch between the rafters is about 60 cm.
8. Laying waterproofing coating overlap the rafters from one side to the other by about 10 cm and fix it with a stapler. The waterproofing along the rafters is secured using counter-battens.
9. Installation of sheathing.
10. Installation of roofing material with treatment of all joints with sealant.

Having familiarized yourself with the design features, you can safely begin constructing the selected type of hipped roof. However, you should remember that in order to obtain a reliable, strong and durable structure, you should not neglect preliminary calculations of structural elements and strictly follow the work algorithm.

Sequence of work on the construction of the roof truss system. Video instructions

A hip roof, provided it is constructed correctly, is not only distinguished by its presentable appearance, but also by its increased strength, which allows it to effectively withstand precipitation and strong wind. In this article we will talk about the structure of the rafter system of a hipped roof, consider the types of such frames, and also describe detailed plan works on their construction.

Comparative characteristics of frame types: tent and hip

The category of roof with four slopes includes 2 types of frame systems, which schematically look like square (hipped structure) and rectangular (hip roof) envelopes. In our country, the envelope roof is quite popular. The main feature of hipped roofs is the absence of gables. To construct the rafter system of a hipped roof, in both cases hanging and layered rafters are used. Their assembly methods are standard for roofs with any number of slopes.

Distinctive features of the four pitched roofs different designs:

• In the case of a hip frame, the roof consists of four isosceles triangles whose vertices touch at one point. In this case, the functions of the ridge are assigned to the central support beam in layered structures, or to the top point of the hanging rafter truss.
• A hip-type roof assumes the presence of two triangular and two trapezoid-shaped slopes. In this case, the trapezoidal slopes are adjacent to the ridge beam with their upper ribs, and the triangular slopes with their vertices. In this case, all four slopes touch each other with lateral ribs.

Studying the plan of the rafter system of a hipped roof, we can conclude that the choice of the configuration of a hipped roof depends on the shape of the building. That is, square houses are covered with hipped structures, and rectangular houses are covered with hip roofs. In this case, you can use any roofing materials, both hard and soft.

When drawing up drawings of the rafter system of a hipped roof, you should clearly indicate geometric shape, as well as indicate the position of individual elements and projections of slopes with exact dimensions.

As a rule, hip and hip rafter systems are combined with traditional ones - single-pitch, gable and broken roofs within one object.

To support a hipped structure, you can use a mauerlat, which is the top frame on concrete or brick walls, as well as the top crown of a log frame. Layered technology is used in cases where it is possible to install upper and lower supports under each rafter leg.

• The Mauerlat must be reinforced to withstand the pushing forces in the event of rigid fixation of the rafter legs with wooden plates or metal corners.
• If the upper part of the leg is fixed rigidly, and the lower part is hinged, you can fix the Mauerlat in the usual way. In this case, when the load on the frame increases, the rafters will be able to move slightly.
• The bursting load and pressure on the Mauerlat will be leveled by using rigid fastenings on the lower part of the rafters and hinged fastenings on the upper heels.

Please note that the method of laying the Mauerlat and the entire rafter system should be provided for at the building design stage. In the absence of internal load-bearing walls and the impossibility of placing supporting elements for the central part of the roof, hanging rafter technology is used. However, most often they install an inclined type of stable frame, having provided for the presence of load-bearing structures in advance.

When constructing hip and hip frames, the following specific components of the rafter system of a hipped roof are used:

• Diagonal legs from which the ridges of the slopes are made. In hip-type frames, such slanting legs combine the corners of the roof with its highest point. Hip frames involve joining the ridge beam consoles to the corners using diagonal rafters.
• Cornices (half-legs) are elements mounted at an angle of 90 degrees to the cornices. Since they connect to diagonal rafters and are parallel to each other, their length will vary. Roof slopes are created from such elements.

The same structural elements are used to create valleys, with the only difference being that the corners are made concave.

It is the installation of slanted rafters that poses the greatest difficulty. Moreover, these elements will bear an increased load, since they serve as a supporting element for fastening in the upper part of the ridges, that is, they act as a ridge. Therefore, before starting work, it is necessary to calculate the rafter system of a hipped roof.

In general, the process of erecting a roof with four slopes includes the following steps:

1. Laying mauerlat on walls made of brick or concrete. IN log houses this element is the upper crown.
2. Installation of a central support beam under a hip frame or assembly of support structures for a hip roof.
3. Installation of layered rafter legs under one or another structure.
4. Attaching diagonal rafters that align the corners of the roof with the central peak or ends of the ridge.
5. Marking and installation of spigots.

If a hanging type of rafter system is assumed, then the first stage of creating a tent structure will be the placement of a central truss in the shape of a triangle. When creating a hip-type structure, several trusses are attached at the starting stage.

Construction of a hip roof

Since private construction mainly uses hip roofs with layered rafters, let us consider in more detail the process of installing a hipped rafter system of this design. The support for the structures will be the floors placed on the Mauerlat.

Fixation using the cutting method will be performed only at the junction of the ridge with the rafters, so the Mauerlat can be installed on conventional fasteners. In the building under consideration, the box of the house has dimensions of 8.4 × 10.8 m. The roof on the plan will exceed the dimensions of the house by 40-50 cm on each side - this is the width of the eaves overhang.

Plan for laying supports on the Mauerlat

Depending on the material used to construct the walls of the building, the mauerlat can be laid in various ways.

• In the upper part of the walls made of gas silicate or foam concrete blocks, you need to pour a reinforced concrete belt in which to place anchors for subsequent fixation of the Mauerlat.
• When constructing brick walls, a side of 1-2 bricks is made in their upper part so that a recess is formed in the center of the wall for a wooden frame. As the bricks are laid, wooden plugs are placed between the bricks, to which the Mauerlat will be fixed with brackets.

For the Mauerlat you will need a beam with a cross section of 100×150 or 150×150 mm. When planning the use of space under the roof, thicker beams should be used. The frame elements are joined with oblique notches, followed by reinforcement with nails, screws or screws, and in the corners with staples.

Next, you need to place the ceiling elements on the Mauerlat. They are made from bars with a cross section of 100×200 mm. The central beam is laid first. If the length of the lumber is not enough, it is made from two pieces of timber. Moreover, the connection point should be on a supporting element, for example, a load-bearing wall.

In this case, the beams are laid in 60 cm increments. As a rule, the box has non-ideal dimensions, so the spacing between the beams can be slightly adjusted to smooth out imperfections. The distance from the walls of the house to the outer beams located on both sides should be 90 cm. This is required for the installation of outriggers.

Extensions are attached to the end parts of the floor beams. For convenience, they are first placed only in those places where the rafters will be installed later. They are fastened to the surface of the outrigger mauerlat with nails, and to the beams with dowels, large-section nails, and self-tapping screws, after which the fastening is reinforced with corners.

Assembling the ridge section of a hipped roof

The central section of the hip roof is nothing more than a traditional gable construction. Consequently, its assembly is carried out using technology for pitched roofs. Although such a design usually involves the presence of a bed on which supports for the ridge are placed, in in this example the functions of such an element are assigned to the central floor beam.

The ridge section of the roof is done as follows:

• First they collect supporting structure under the rafters, whose upper heels will rest against the ridge beam. The ridge itself will be supported by three support pillars, of which the middle one is mounted directly on the central beam of the floor. To correctly install the two outer pillars, transverse bars are placed under them on top of the ceiling, spanning at least 5 beams in length. The struts provide additional stability to the structure. The supporting elements of the frame are made of timber with a cross-section of 100×150 mm, and the struts are made of boards 50×150 mm.
• To ensure that all rafters are the same, a template is made for cutting them. To do this, a board of the required length is tried on at the installation site, the cuts are marked, and then all the rafters are cut along it.
• The finished rafters are supported on the ridge beam by the cutting point, and the lower part is secured to the outrigger.

Typically, floor beams are placed perpendicular to the frame so that the support of the rafter legs in the central part of the roof rests on them. Since in the example under consideration the rafters are connected to the extension, the installation of additional supports is necessary. They are placed in such a way as to redistribute the load from the rafters and supports to the walls.

In the end, you need to install three rows of stems on each side. After this, a cornice is attached strictly horizontally to the floor beams and extensions, facilitating further work on the roof.

Fastening the corner extensions of the rafter system

It is necessary to install corner extensions in the corners behind the cornice board.

They are attached like this:

• From the corner to the place of the conventional intersection of the floor beam with the outer support of the frame, a string is pulled.
• A block is placed along its contour in the right place. On the block you need to mark the places where it intersects the floor beam and the corner joint of the cornice. According to the markings, all excess is cut off.
• Using corners, the finished element is attached to the ceiling and mauerlat.

The same actions are performed with all remaining offsets.

Installation of sloped rafters - drawings

The diameter of the diagonal rafters coincides with the dimensions of the ordinary elements. Since in our example the slope of the trapezoidal slopes and hips is different, one of the sloped legs is placed slightly higher than the other.

The process of creating and installing slopes is as follows:

• Using laces, we outline additional lines for marking the cut, pulling it towards the corners and the center of the slope from top point ridge beam.
• Determine the angle between the top of the corner stem and the lace. This will be the angle for the bottom cut (α). The upper cut (β) is calculated using the formula: β=90º-α.
• We take a piece of board and cut one edge of it at an angle β. Having attached the workpiece to the place where the upper parts are joined, we combine its edge with the lace. We mark the excess and saw off.
• In another blank for the lower heel, we saw off a section at an angle α.
• Using the templates obtained, the first diagonal rafter is cut out. If there is no whole board of the required length, the element is assembled from two pieces. They are spliced ​​using an inch board, 1 m long, placing it on the outside of the rafters. The finished element can be installed.
• The second half of the diagonal rafters is made in the same way, not forgetting that it should be placed slightly lower than the first. The junction of the two halves of the slope should not coincide with the section where the boards are joined into one piece.
• The boards are joined with nails at a distance of 40-50 cm.
• Next, you need to draw a saw line along the lace on the rafter so that it can be joined to the adjacent diagonal element.

The manufacture of the remaining 3 parts is carried out in the same way. Supports are installed under each of these rafters in the places where the beams meet the corner extensions. Additional supports near the ridge are required if the span exceeds 7.5 m.

Assembly and installation of hip rafter legs

Using a stretched cord from the ridge to the center of the slope, we measure the lower angle γ and calculate the opposite angle δ=90º-γ. Just as with diagonal parts, templates are made for cuts on the upper and lower heels of the element so that it fits tightly between the diagonal rafters. Having made the central hip rafter, it must be installed in the appropriate place.

Structural rigidity and reliable fastening The shortest extensions are provided by installing short extensions between the cornice and corner extensions.

On next stage make templates for spymakers:

• A piece of board is sawn off at an angle δ and tried on at the junction with the diagonal leg.
• Excess areas are identified and then sawed off. This template will be needed to create all the flaps that will be installed on one side of the hip. For the other half, the cut on the blanks will need to be done on the opposite side.
• The lower heel of the splices is cut according to a template sawed off at an angle γ. This blank is suitable for creating lower joints on all spigots.

The production of spigots is carried out taking into account the estimated length of the elements and according to the manufactured templates. They will fill the planes of the hips and main slopes. The installation of these parts is carried out so that the junction points of the slopes with the spouts on opposite sides do not converge in one place, that is, apart. The fastening elements for connecting the frames with the diagonal rafters are angles, and with the outriggers and floor beams - jagged plates or angles - whichever is more convenient.

The construction of a roof with a hip frame is carried out using the same technologies as with a hip frame. The only difference is the absence of a ridge in hip roofs. In this case, installation of the rafter system hip roof begins with joining the diagonal rafters, and then the splices. If hanging rafters are used, the central truss is installed first.

Thus, a detailed study of the features of the construction of hipped roofs will allow you to begin creating frame structure with knowledge of affairs.