In interior design, various finishing materials are used, with the help of which it is possible to visually increase the size of the room and create a cozy atmosphere. Wallpapers, available on the market in a large assortment, are widely popular among consumers. An impressive range of shades, designs and patterns allows you to choose beautiful finish for any room. Therefore, many people are concerned about the question of how to glue wallpaper to the ceiling, because this process is more complex than pasting walls.

From a decorative and aesthetic point of view, wallpaper in the interior - optimal solution. Each person can do the work themselves, which allows them to save on the services of a professional team. Even the most expensive samples are reasonably priced, so finishing costs will be minimal. The only difficulty is gluing on horizontal plane ceiling. But if you adhere to the pasting technology and properly prepare the surface, the wallpaper will adhere tightly and delight your household with a beautiful view for several years.

What nuances and difficulties arise when gluing wallpaper to the ceiling with your own hands:

• The surface must be perfectly prepared, free from defects, cracks, large differences so that the material does not lag behind.
• It is not advisable to glue structural products and wide rolls; the sheets may fall off under their own weight.
• Warm air rises to the ceiling, causing the glue to dry quickly, leaving little time for adjustments.
• Gluing wallpaper on a horizontal surface yourself is problematic - you need help.
• Ceiling lighting highlights the flaws in the pasting, and nothing can be done to disguise them.
• To get a seamless composition, the seams need to be made almost invisible.

Using wallpaper on the ceiling you can create exclusive interior, visually make the room more spacious and bright. At the right combination color scheme with walls, furniture and floor covering the room is transformed before our eyes. And installation lighting fixtures will emphasize beautiful interior and will place the necessary accents.

Important! If the ceiling is uneven, there are joints between tiles, significant differences in height, craftsmen advise leveling the surface with sheets of plasterboard, and then gluing wallpaper.

How to choose wallpaper

The range of wallpaper products amazes with the variety of shades, textures, and patterns. Dense products that are suitable for gluing walls cannot be used for finishing the ceiling. They are more difficult to glue, and the weight of the strips will lag behind. The rolls are marked with the weight of the products. For the ceiling, samples whose weight does not exceed 110 g/m2 are suitable. The types of wallpaper that can be glued to the ceiling differ in the type of base, surface texture, color, width, and the presence of edges.

Paper

A budget option, quite suitable for the ceiling. Simple samples have a smooth front side and a slightly rough base. Paper copies come in a variety of shades, with and without patterns. According to the density of the product, they belong to thin wallpaper, therefore, when gluing, all surface irregularities are repeated. Before finishing, you need to carefully prepare the base. Washable ones available paper wallpaper and “dumb wash”, which are best glued in rooms with constant temperature conditions and low humidity - bedrooms, living rooms, children's rooms.

Embossed

Structural wallpaper is made from thicker paper. Such products camouflage well minor defects– microcracks and small irregularities. The gluing technology is joint to joint, and you need to connect the strips so that the seams are invisible. In the interior, samples with views of the starry sky look interesting; with the help of embossed wallpaper, you can play up complex multi-level structures. If the design uses a drawing, you need to strictly combine the stripes so that the fragments of the artistic composition clearly coincide.

Vinyl

Vinyl products are made on a paper or non-woven basis, which affects the choice of glue and ease of implementation finishing works. Depending on the texture of the front surface, flat vinyl is distinguished in the form of spraying with a slight relief on paper based, filament screen printing, cold stamped foam vinyl, dense textured rigid vinyl, and washable polyfiln. Wear-resistant, washable wallpaper can even be used to decorate the ceiling in the bathroom.

Non-woven

There are two main types of finishing materials. Solid color options with embossing are suitable for subsequent painting, have an attractive relief texture, and give the effect gypsum plaster and visually make the room spacious. After painting they do not lose their quality. Two-layer copies on a non-woven base with vinyl coating on the front side have pronounced decorative properties, are suitable for gluing ceilings in any room, including rooms with high humidity.

Important! Non-woven wallpaper has a translucent structure, so it is used for ceilings with a uniform color. If the surface is multi-colored, it must be covered with a layer of putty and primer.

Textile

Wallpapers with fabric covering on a synthetic or paper layer they create a deep relief effect and look luxurious. The material is glued to the base using classical technology. Suitable for ceiling textile wallpaper with linen, silk and jute coating, but they cannot be glued in the bathroom or kitchen due to humidity. The finish can be applied to a perfectly flat base. The use of textile wallpaper improves acoustic characteristics premises, and the design looks expensive and original.

Liquid

Finishing materials are not afraid of moisture, so liquid wallpaper can be used to glue ceilings in all rooms. The texture of the product is colored cellulose chips. After soaking, the material turns into a plastic mass, which is applied to the base. thin layer according to the principle of decorative plaster. Using liquid wallpaper you can create an artistic composition, applique, or unusual pattern. The material tolerates any temperature conditions well and has moisture-repellent properties.

Glass wallpaper

Alternatively, such wallpaper can be used to cover the ceiling, but we must not forget that the material has significant weight. Rolled products are made in the form of a polymer coating applied to fiberglass. They are resistant to moisture, thanks to special impregnations, but are presented in a limited range of textures and colors. Despite high density, glass wallpaper cannot hide significant defects in the ceiling, so they are glued to a well-prepared base. After gluing, fiberglass can be painted with wool rollers.

When choosing finishing materials, take into account financial opportunities and your own taste. Most often, consumers prefer non-woven, vinyl and liquid wallpaper. Textiles or embossed patterns can be used, but they are more difficult to work with due to the need to perfectly match the design. If the ceiling has non-standard shape, it’s worth buying wallpaper for further painting.

On a note! When choosing finishing material It is not recommended to purchase wide rolls, bright wallpaper or options with an edge. If the design of the room does not involve an exclusive solution, for finishing the ceiling choose options in pastel colors, white wallpaper or plain products. Large drawings visually reduce the dimensions of the room and visually make the room lower.

How to choose the right glue

Since wallpaper is made from different materials, you need to select an adhesive that matches the specific type of finish. The composition must firmly fix the wallpaper on the ceiling, have the required consistency and good adhesive properties.

Wallpaper adhesives are classified depending on their purpose:

• For paper wallpaper, starch-based compositions containing antiseptic components are used.
• Mixtures of starch and methylcellulose are suitable for vinyl and non-woven products.
• Heavier finishing materials are glued to the same compositions, but with the addition of polymers and biocide.
• Fiberglass wallpaper adheres best to classic PVA glue.

You can purchase in specialized stores universal remedies, which are suitable for any wallpaper with a paper or non-woven base. To choose the right glue, you need to carefully read the instructions from the manufacturer, which indicate the characteristics, component composition and purpose of the product. Adhesives are supplied in the form of dry crystals, which are diluted with water. After thorough mixing and “swelling” for 20-30 minutes, the product is ready for use.

Interesting! Manufacturers add a light tint coloring pigment to some wallpaper adhesives. During the spreading process, areas not treated with glue are clearly visible.

The technology for gluing non-woven and paper materials is slightly different. Strips of paper-based wallpaper are coated with glue, just like the ceiling. Products with a non-woven bottom layer do not need to be treated with glue - the composition is applied only to the surface of the ceiling, but the glue must be designed specifically for this type of wallpaper. When breeding glue mixture it is necessary to strictly adhere to the proportions recommended by the manufacturer.

Preparation for sticker

An important advantage of wallpaper over other types of finishing is universal use. Wallpaper strips can be used to glue plasterboard ceilings, concrete surfaces, multi-level structures made of plywood and OSB boards. The only obligatory condition is that the ceiling must be smooth, free from flaws, cracks and significant differences in height within the same plane. It is recommended to remove the previous coating as much as possible, since the presence of old paint, plaster affects the adhesion of the ceiling-glue-wallpaper bond.

What does the preparatory stage include:

1. The first rule of builders - the house must shrink - can be skipped if the property has been in operation for more than one year.
2. Furniture must be removed from the premises, carpets and other interior items must be removed.
3. It is necessary to close windows and doors so that there are no drafts, and shade the windows from bright sunlight.
4. Electrical equipment, hoods, air conditioners, ventilation systems should be disconnected and the socket boxes removed.
5. Assess the condition of the ceiling - cracks and floor joints need to be caulked and puttied, and several layers of primer applied.

For preparatory and pasting work, the following tools and materials are needed: stepladder (table, chair), brush, roller, clean rag, bucket of glue, tape measure and utility knife. If the ceiling has to be caulked and puttied, you will need a trowel, a spatula and a primer brush. Preparation of the base is prerequisite high-quality wallpapering.

Concrete

Ceiling decoration is not limited to choosing and gluing wallpaper. If the base is concrete, you need to check the condition of the surface after removing the previous coating from it. If possible, tear off old wallpaper, then moisten it generously with water and scrape off the paper-adhesive mass, carefully prying off the strips with a spatula or knife.

Painted concrete ceilings(which is rare) freed from the old coating mechanically and using special removers for the appropriate type of paint. If it is waterproof and holds very tightly, you can leave the ceiling as is. The remaining putty is removed and such areas are cleaned with sandpaper. Remove lime or chalk whitewash by washing it with water.

Before gluing the wallpaper to the ceiling, all cracks and seams on the ceiling concrete surface, sealed with fresh gypsum putty. It is recommended to lay a serpyanka mesh first. Microcracks and joints of walls and ceilings are rubbed with starting putty, allowed to dry and sanded with sandpaper. To perfectly level the surface, apply finishing mixture 1-2 mm thick. After preparatory work the ceiling is swept from dust and primed for good adhesion of the glue. The primer can be applied with a brush or roller in two or more layers, making strokes perpendicular to each other.

From plasterboard

The best option for wallpapering is ceiling structures from plasterboard. Correctly installed sheets have a flat surface without differences in height. The only inconvenience is that you need to seal the seams between the sheets.

How to do it:

• Choose a suitable gypsum-based composition, for example, produced by Knauf.
• Prepare a solution in specified proportion and seal the joints and places of fastening of sheets - screw heads.
• If the cardboard base plasterboard material It has light shade, there is no need to completely putty the surface.

Before gluing the ceiling wallpaper, the drywall is treated with a layer of primer. One application is enough so that the material does not get too wet and does not begin to delaminate.

OSB or plywood

IN wooden houses to form flat surface ceilings use OSB boards or plywood. Wood materials quite suitable for wallpapering. Preparation of the base comes down to sealing seams and joints. Particle boards must be treated with starting and then finishing putty. There is no need to completely putty plywood structures; it is enough to cover the seams and apply a layer of primer after drying.

After preparing the base, the strips are cut taking into account the direction of gluing perpendicular to the wall with the window. A small margin is left on each canvas for even cutting. Before gluing paper wallpaper to the ceiling, the canvas must be coated with glue. The composition is applied different ways- chaotic, perpendicular, zigzag. The most common option is to apply glue to central part canvas and distribute it to the edges of the strip. The edge of the panel is folded over 30 cm and the part coated with glue is placed on the main strip, which is folded like an accordion and glued to the ceiling.

Masters advise! If you plan to glue heavy wallpaper, you need to pierce the fabric with a needle in several places in increments of 20-30 cm so that air bubbles do not accumulate under the strip.

Wallpaper gluing technology

When choosing the direction of pasting, you need to adhere to placing the wallpaper in the direction of the sun's rays penetrating the windows during the day. Generally, technological process pasting identical for different types wallpaper, except for some nuances.

There is a slight difference in how to glue vinyl, paper or liquid wallpaper to the ceiling:

• Lightweight paper materials are glued overlapping, thoroughly covering the joints, fabric and ceiling surface.
• Vinyl wallpaper is glued to the ceiling end-to-end; you can apply glue to the strip and base.
• Liquid wallpaper is soaked, kneaded by hand and applied with a wide grater for textured plaster.

The final finishing of the ceiling is a decorative polystyrene foam baseboard. Gypsum and polyurethane samples are not suitable - they are heavy and will pull the wallpaper down. Craftsmen argue about what to glue first - baseboard or wallpaper. If there is no experience, stick wallpaper, trim the excess part of the strip as evenly as possible. And then decorative fragments are glued on, which decorate the room and hide the ugly edges of the trim.

Advice from the master! You can glue the plinth using glue or putty. You need to apply the material in small quantities - when you press the decorative item against the ceiling, some of the mixture may appear on the wallpaper.

Example of calculating the number of rolls

Before purchasing finishing material, it is important to determine the size of the ceiling and the number of rolls. It should be borne in mind that manufacturers produce products of standard and non-standard widths, and the length of the canvases also varies. Standard parameters rolls - 53 and 106 mm in width and 10.05 m in length. But there are canvases for sale foreign manufacturers, the width of which is 70, 90, 140 cm, and the length can reach 15 m.

An example calculation is carried out for a room with dimensions of 3x4 meters, provided that the ceilings are covered standard wallpaper 53 cm wide - they are much easier to work with. Using the same principle, you can calculate the consumption of meter products. Room measurements are taken along two walls to obtain the ceiling area. It is necessary to take into account the location of the windows, which determines the direction of gluing. It is customary to place the canvases perpendicular to the windows, then the seams between the stripes will be almost invisible. Calculation:

The length of the canvas is 3 meters + 10-15 cm for trimming.

The standard roll width is 53 cm.

The length of the room is 4 m, there are two stripes for every meter.

Number of strips: 8 pieces, 3.15 m each.

If there is 10.05 m of wallpaper in a roll, 10.05/3.15 = 3.19 stripes will fit in it.

You need to round down - 1 roll = 3 strips. And in total you need to glue 8 strips, which means 8/3 = 2.66 rolls, rounded up. The result is that with the given dimensions of the room, 3 rolls of wallpaper will be needed to glue the ceiling.

Important! Since wallpaper comes in different lengths and widths, this point should not be overlooked when making calculations. Craftsmen recommend buying a roll as a reserve in case of unsuccessful wallpaper gluing.

Step-by-step instruction

Sticker process ceiling wallpaper not so difficult, but requires some skill and quick action. To clearly fix the stripes, you need to prevent the glue from drying.

The technology for properly gluing wallpaper to the ceiling consists of several stages:

1. Preparation of the base - cleaning of the old coating, washing, caulking cracks and joints, if necessary - installation of plasterboard sheets to level the ceiling.

2. Surface priming with special compounds. They form a thin film, which ensures good adhesion of the glue and strong fixation of the wallpaper.

3. Applying markings. Useful step, but not always experienced craftsmen it is fulfilled. “Beginners” are recommended to make markings by placing the stripes perpendicular to the windows and marking the boundaries of each canvas.

5. Wallpaper rolls are cut to a pre-measured length, taking into account the pattern, if any, and a small margin at the edges. The canvas must be rolled out on a clean surface. front side down.

6. Preparing the glue. The dry mixture is diluted with water. To prevent lumps from forming, pour the glue in a thin stream into the required volume of water, stirring constantly.

7. Infusion of glue. The composition is mixed (some masters recommend 7-10 minutes) and left to infuse for up to half an hour so that the glue swells. Mix again and start gluing.

8. Pasting the first strip. The prepared glue is applied to the base and to the strip if it is paper wallpaper. When working with non-woven backed vinyl, only apply glue to the ceiling, but you can also apply wallpaper.

9. The strip is glued without delay, carefully aligning it along the marking line. Press well to the ceiling and expel the air with a dry roller or a clean rag from the center to the edges of the canvas.

10. The stock is cut off without waiting for the glue to dry. To do this, apply a wide spatula to the edge and trim off the excess with a sharp knife along the working surface of the tool.

11. Gluing the remaining fragments. If the wallpaper is glued overlapping, the edge of the first strip is coated with glue and the next section is glued. When working end to end, you need to align the edges of the strips well.

The final stage of work is gluing decorative plinth, and if you choose wallpaper for painting, paint the laminated ceiling. You can do the work alone, but it is better to glue the ceiling with an assistant. This speeds up the process and allows for better finishing. In the interior, ceilings covered with wallpaper look beautiful and original.

Wallpapering the ceiling (2 videos)

How to glue wallpaper to the ceiling (23 photos)

Perhaps few things evoke such awe as wallpapering a ceiling. After all, the position is uncomfortable, your hands get tired, and if you do something else incorrectly, then this process simply turns into a nightmare.

Listen to the tips below, and then you will be able to understand how to wallpaper the ceiling with minimal losses.

Preparatory work

All furniture must be removed from the room during renovation. If this is not possible, then move it to one corner and cover it with polyethylene.

You also need to think about a reliable stand with which you can reach the ceiling.

First of all, we prepare the wallpaper, glue and tools - a wide brush for applying glue, a roller for processing seams, a wallpaper brush and scissors.

We clean the ceiling surface from old decorative materials:

• dye,
• wallpaper,
• whitewashing, etc.

Cut the wallpaper required length, stack with the wrong side up.

Apply glue with a wide brush first to the middle of the canvas and then carefully distribute it over the entire surface. Make sure that the layer of glue is uniform.

Carefully fold the coated fabric like an accordion, making folds about 30 cm deep. The coated side should not touch the front.

Leave the folded canvas for a few minutes so that the glue is absorbed into the paper, so it will be more pliable. There is no point in delaying the process, otherwise you risk getting a fabric that is too soft and may tear.

When climbing on a stepladder or other stand, take with you scissors, an upholstery brush and a seam roller. You should have them with you to glue the wallpaper to the ceiling and smooth it thoroughly.

Choose work clothes that have many pockets, then you will always have a roller and scissors at hand.

Also, take something with you to support the “accordion” to avoid tearing the canvas. This could be a broom wrapped in plastic, a leftover roll of wallpaper, a cardboard roll from under packaging foil.

Hold the support roller and accordion with one hand, while with the other hand carefully apply the upper section of the canvas to the ceiling surface, focusing on the drawn reference line.

Then press this section tightly and smooth it with a brush from the middle to the edges. Please make sure there are no wrinkles or bubbles.

Near the wall, press the edge of the wallpaper into the corner with the blunt side of the scissors, so you will mark the cutting line. Then slightly move the canvas away from the surface of the ceiling and cut along the break you marked. This way you will achieve a smooth, neat cutting line.

When you wallpaper a ceiling and come across a chandelier on your way, make a cross-shaped cut in this place to avoid unevenness. Later, the chandelier cap will cover this cut.

When it comes to finishing the ceiling surface, people in most cases consider only three options: installation stretch ceiling, installation suspended structure and painting. It would seem that there is not much to choose from, but there is a fourth option, which has been used for decades, but today for some reason it is becoming a thing of the past. We are now talking about wallpapering. Ceiling wallpaper was not always glued, mainly because gluing it is quite difficult and inconvenient. This article was written so that even a beginner can understand how to hang wallpaper on the ceiling.

To begin with, this finishing option has always been original, because it gave wide design possibilities. Wallpaper allows you to create unique interiors that you won’t find in other houses or apartments.

As for other advantages of this method, these include:

• no need to frequently paint the ceiling if it fades over time;
• no need for significant financial costs associated with the arrangement of tension/suspended structures.

In other words, wallpaper is the best option according to several criteria at once. However, it should be remembered that the choice of material must be approached with all responsibility (this is especially true for rooms with high humidity).

Now let's look at the gluing process itself. This procedure, as noted above, is extremely inconvenient: it is not easy to glue wallpaper onto walls, but here all the work is done overhead.

For which rooms is wallpapering suitable?

It is not suitable for every room. Embossed colored ceilings are known to visually make a room smaller, so this method is suitable for large rooms - say, a living room, where you can not only experiment using different textures, but also hide imperfections in the finishing. The fact is that the latter are less noticeable in large rooms than in small ones.

The ceiling, covered with wallpaper, also has a large set of visual effects. With its help, for example, you can both make a room more comfortable and divide it into several zones. It is quite obvious that the ability to delimit rooms is especially important in one-room apartments, where one room serves as an office, a living room, and a bedroom. Finally, the porosity of the wallpaper also provides additional sound insulation.

Prices for photo wallpapers

photo wallpaper

Stage one. Deciding on the type of wallpaper

First, you need to familiarize yourself with the features of some types of wallpaper, and also find out which option is more suitable for finishing the ceiling.

1. Paper. The most common type of material, characterized by low cost. A good choice in case of cosmetic repairs.
2. Liquid. Who doesn’t know, such wallpaper is a special liquid mixture that, after application, gives a seamless and perfectly smooth surface.
3. Vinyl. Very popular today, they are distinguished by durability, strength and moisture resistance.
4. Non-woven. Such wallpapers are especially durable, elastic, and abrasion-resistant.
5. Textile. They consist of two layers - a paper (or non-woven) base and a textile fabric.

We have not considered all types of wallpaper present on the current market, and this is of no use. Instead, let's return to the main topic, namely wallpapering the ceiling with your own hands.

GOST 30834-2002. Wallpaper. Definitions and graphic symbols. File for download.

Stage two. We prepare everything you need

As for the wallpaper itself, there are no restrictions in terms of their choice - you can use any of the options listed above. For example, the starry sky is a very original method of decorating the ceiling surface.

On a note! Wallpapering for painting deserves special attention. Modern models the material can be painted up to 15 times, which means that if you are tired of the color, then it is not at all necessary to remove the previous finish - instead, you can simply repaint it.

If the ceiling in the room is low, then it is preferable to use wallpaper light colors, and always with small and dim drawings. This will visually raise the ceiling, and light wallpaper suitable for almost any interior. In order to reduce the height of the ceiling, you need, on the contrary, to use dark colors. However, this is a matter of taste, so no one can stop you from using the option that you personally like for gluing.

Prices for non-woven wallpaper

non-woven wallpaper

You will also need the following tools:

• stepladder (or durable table, sawhorses);
• brushes;
• bucket;
• rags;
• a construction mixer (in extreme cases, you can use a regular wooden stick) to stir the glue;
• pencil;
• roulette;
• roller (the handle should be long and the length of the pile should be medium);
• a special tray for the roller (thanks to it the glue will be distributed evenly).

On a note! The strips must be laid parallel to the window. With natural light coming from the window, the joints will be less noticeable. For this reason, trimming wallpaper should be done taking into account longitudinal size premises.

And one more thing: it’s better to do the gluing together. One will glue the wallpaper, and the other will hold the edges of the strips and make sure that the installation is done correctly. Although this can be done independently (by folding the canvas into an “accordion”), but only if you have a lot of experience.

Stage three. Preparing the ceiling

One of the main advantages of wallpapering is that it is not necessary to remove the old covering from the ceiling. But if there is whitewash, then it is advisable to remove it and then putty the surface twice. If there was already wallpaper on the ceiling before, they also need to be torn off.

If working surface uneven or has significant slopes, then it needs to be leveled (in particularly serious cases, drywall is used for leveling). However, this again depends on your budget, as well as what kind of renovations you will be doing.

Prices for putty

putty

If wallpapering will be done on a puttied surface, then before starting work it must be properly treated. You can use acrylic primer for these purposes, applying it to the ceiling with a regular brush.

When the primer layer dries (and this will happen quite quickly), you can begin directly gluing the wallpaper. Let us also note that priming the ceiling is an optional procedure, but wallpaper on a primed surface, which has been repeatedly proven, sticks, sticks and dries much better.

Be sure to sand down the dried primer. Also, the treated surface must be marked in such a way that the strips of material are glued at an angle of 90 degrees relative to one of the walls of the room. Seal the place where the chandelier will be hung using masking tape. Don't forget to turn off the electricity before gluing.

Stage four. Cutting the wallpaper correctly

It's no secret that to hang wallpaper, you first need to cut it according to the required sizes. For this reason, you should definitely know how to cut without ruining the material. Below is an algorithm of necessary actions.

First, take the roll and place it so that the front side “looks” down.

Using a tape measure, measure the appropriate length, then mark the location with a pencil.

Wallpaper glue prices

wallpaper glue

Where we put the mark, we bend the material (the front part should be on top) and smooth out the resulting bend.

At the end, we take a stationery knife and cut the strip along the bend (more precisely, along inside the latter).

Stage five. Draw a line for the first strip

When the ceiling is properly prepared and the wallpaper is cut into strips of the required length, we need to mark a line along which we will glue the first sheet of wallpaper.

To make the line as even as possible, we hammer in a couple of nails along the width next to the ceiling on opposite walls. We tie and pull the rope tightly between these nails, after rubbing it with chalk. Next, we pull back and sharply lower the rope - as a result, a white line will remain on the ceiling, along which we will glue the first strip.

Note! The line must be marked before the actual wallpapering begins.

Stage six. Let's start wallpapering

Here, a lot depends on the type of wallpaper chosen for the room. If we're talking about, say, about vinyl or paper, then the glue should be applied directly to the wallpaper sheets themselves. If non-woven wallpaper is used, the adhesive mixture should be applied to the ceiling surface. The adhesive that was applied to non-woven wallpaper must be kept for several minutes, while for paper wallpaper this is unacceptable - the material should be laid on the ceiling immediately after applying the adhesive.

Let us add that the strips of material must be laid parallel to the window opening, as was already mentioned at the beginning of the article. Thanks to this, the joints will be practically invisible. When everything is ready, we get to work. For the convenience of visitors, the instructions are presented in table form.

Table. Pasting ceiling wallpaper.

Steps, no.	Short description
	Stir the glue. It must be very thick to securely fix the wallpaper.
	Take the first strip and apply the adhesive mixture to it, spreading it from the center to the edges. It is important that the glue never gets on the front of the wallpaper.
	It all depends on how many people are doing the pasting. If you do this alone, then fold the glue-coated strip into an accordion shape, then glue along the previously marked line, gradually straightening the material. As you glue, smooth the material with a roller or a special smoothing brush. If two people are working, then one must climb onto the trestle, holding the edge of the strip. The second one at this time should hold the second edge and monitor the process.
	Now we squeeze out the remaining adhesive solution and air from under the wallpaper strip. For this purpose, we take a clean roller and roll it, moving from the center to the edges. To remove excess glue, use a sponge or rag.
	We perform similar actions with the remaining wallpaper strips. Difficulties here can arise only with the adjustment of the adjacent strip to the already glued one. We do this end-to-end, without overlap. If there is some kind of pattern on the wallpaper, then we need to combine adjacent stripes (we need to take care of this at the stage of cutting the material).

Note! There should be no drafts in the room during gluing. It is recommended not to open windows and doors for several days after completion of work.

If you work alone, you can make your own convenient device, designed to support strips, from plasterboard profile, connecting it with the letter “T”. The video below clearly shows how to wallpaper a ceiling yourself.

Video - Wallpapering the ceiling with your own hands

You can use ceiling plinth to seal joints.

Common mistakes when gluing

The most common defect is material lag. This can happen after gluing it to old and peeling plaster. To avoid this defect, you must first remove the layer of plaster or paint. This is especially true in the case of lime or chalk whitewash. After removing the old coating, the surface must be treated with fixing paint.

When gluing, it is advisable to apply glue both to the ceiling and to the wallpaper. As a rule, special adhesive solutions for heavy types of this material are used for this. Moreover, it is recommended to dilute the glue somewhat thicker than indicated in the manufacturer's instructions. Samu ceiling surface should be processed, and the smaller the thickness of the wallpaper sheets, the more careful the alignment should be. If thick ones are used textured wallpaper, then you can’t level it so carefully, because minor defects will be invisible. Sanding and priming, as noted earlier, will help improve grip.

Prices for suspended ceilings

suspended ceiling

Please pay Special attention on air bubbles under the material, because they will be especially noticeable when the lighting is on.

Finally, to avoid getting wet through, you should not soak the wallpaper for too long, and the glue layer should not be too thick.

Rules of care

To extend the life of the wallpaper, you can coat it with varnish. Most paintable wallpaper can easily withstand at least several stains, so this finishing option is extremely economical. And if the wallpaper comes off, coat the fallen edges with glue and press them to the surface with a clean roller.

As for embossed wallpaper, they are distinguished by the fact that they absorb dust well and unpleasant odors. For this reason, such material needs periodic cleaning, for which you can use a vacuum cleaner, dry cloth or brush. Moisture-resistant wallpaper can be wiped with damp cloths.

Video - Gluing non-woven wallpaper to the ceiling

Summing up

Actually, we can end here. We found out that gluing ceiling wallpaper is quite a difficult task, but if you wish, you can handle everything on your own. The main difficulty of the process is that you need to complete all the steps listed and described above. If you strictly follow the instructions, there should be no problems.

For process wallpapering you need a set of simple tools: a cord with a plumb line to control the vertical position of the canvas, scissors or a knife for trimming excess, a brush or paint roller for applying glue, a pressure roller or a wide spatula for smoothing the wallpaper on the wall. It’s a good idea to have a roller for processing corners and seams, which is used to press the edges of the panels to the wall. Wallpaper roller May be grooved, smooth, narrow.

Ideally used to remove old wallpaper special steaming machine, which soaks the wallpaper with steam, as a result of which it lags behind the walls better.

Preparing the surface before wallpapering . If the walls and ceilings were previously covered with wallpaper, there will be few problems. You just need to delete old layer by getting it wet warm water, to which you can add detergent or a 5-10% glue solution. If this does not help, use a special wallpaper remover. In extreme cases, the old coating will have to be sanded or perforated (holes made in it) so that water can penetrate inside. Perfect option– paste fresh wallpaper onto the base from the previous ones. Many modern wallpaper They are two-layer, so their coating can be removed dry, without requiring moisture, and the base remains on the wall. To find out if the base is well adhered, try moistening it with water in several places, and then check if bubbles have formed.

If walls and ceilings are covered with wallpaper for the first time, the surface must be pre-treated. It should become smooth (but slightly rough, dry, clean and chemically neutral. Peeling paint should be removed, cracks should be filled with putty. It is best to apply a layer of primer to the surface, then the wallpaper will adhere more firmly and will not peel off from the walls. For the same purpose, you can paste to the ground special paper, which, like wallpaper, is produced in the form of rolls.

The only contraindication for wallpapering is a damp surface. New residents who move into newly built houses often face this problem. At first, it is recommended to simply wait for the walls and ceilings to dry (some estimates suggest that plastered surfaces will be dry after six weeks). If the moisture does not disappear, try priming the surfaces with a weak solution of wallpaper glue.

Preparing wallpaper for pasting . Nowadays, almost all wallpaper is produced without edges, so there is no need to trim anything along the edges. Pay attention to the marking symbols on the packaging of each roll (their interpretation).

Preparing the rolls involves cutting them into strips corresponding to the height of the walls or the length of the ceiling in the room. If a pattern needs to be joined, allowances must be provided.

Wallpaper is cut into panels, the length of which should be slightly greater than the height of the surface to be pasted. An allowance of about 10 cm will be sufficient, even if in some place the floor near the wall is slightly sloping. In addition, the height of a room is not always the same in all corners, and the ceiling will not always be completely level.

If you cut the panel with scissors, it will take longer, and the edge of the wallpaper will not be as smooth as when cutting with a sharp knife along a ruler. After cutting the panels needed for gluing on the walls, you can cut out pieces of the required size from the remnants of the roll for pasting other, shorter sections of the surface to be wallpapered.

Wallpapering walls. The cut panels (about 10 pieces) are stacked one on top of the other with the pattern down so that each subsequent panel is shifted relative to the underlying one by about 10-20 mm. It is not recommended to stack more than 10 pieces on top of each other, as their edges may become dirty when spreading glue.

When applying glue, you need to try not to get it on the front side of the wallpaper. For this purpose, waste paper is placed under the bottom panel of wallpaper, and the stack is moved with the longitudinal side to the very edge of the table.

Rice. 1. Wallpapering operations: a - applying glue to the back side of the panel on the working surface; 6 — drawing a vertical line; c - gluing the surface at the border of the top of the wallpaper; g - folding the panel for the toe box; d - alignment of the edge of the panel with the top line of the panel; e - gluing the panel and aligning the side edge with the vertical line; g - leveling and smoothing the wallpaper behind the radiator; h - smoothing the glued panel

To properly attach wallpaper to the surface, you need to prepare glue (in accordance with its manufacturer's instructions), apply it evenly to the strip and let it soak. The glue is applied with a brush or roller, evenly distributing it over the surface, and they do it this way: first, apply a strip of glue in the middle, then lubricate the elongated side of the panel and, finally, the edge that is closer to the worker.

On the edges of the wallpaper there should be sufficient quantity glue. Therefore, it is recommended to lubricate them with brush movements along the panel, going beyond the edges of the wallpaper. After applying the glue, the paper becomes wavy and the edges of the wallpaper begin to curl. You can paste wallpaper on the wall only when all the irregularities on the sheet disappear and the panel becomes completely smooth.

The greased cloth must be folded with the greased surface inward, placed on clean paper spread on the floor, and left to be impregnated with glue. The thicker the wallpaper, the more time it takes to soak it. The saturation time with glue for paper wallpaper (one- and two-layer) is approximately 5-7 minutes, for other types of paper-based wallpaper (including polymer coating) – 8-10 minutes.

Wallpaper on fabric and non-woven bases and fiberglass wallpaper are very easy to install: the glue must be applied directly to the wall, and not to the canvas. The fabric does not need to be soaked; they are hung dry. Non-woven wallpaper does not require impregnation. In this case, the glue is applied directly to the wall. It should be taken into account that thin paper wallpapers quickly become saturated and become fragile; they can be torn when pasted. Vinyl wallpapers and “silk-screen printing” must be thoroughly saturated with glue; it is not recommended to bend them so as not to damage the top decorative layer.

After coating, textile wallpaper should not be folded. Ideally, the temperature in the room during pasting should be no lower than 10 degrees Celsius and no higher than 23 degrees Celsius, and the relative air humidity should be no more than 70%.

Wallpaper is applied in two ways : with overlapping edges of adjacent panels (overlapping) or end-to-end, closely moving the edges of adjacent panels. If thick wallpaper is pasted end-to-end, then it is necessary that the joint between the strips is not visible. This requires careful preparation of the wallpaper and preliminary chalking of vertical lines on the wall in a plumb line.

Wallpaper should be applied from the corner of the room on the side of the wall with windows. Before sticking the first panel in the corner of the room, you must use a plumb line to mark a vertical line. The first panel is glued over it. The verticality of each subsequent glued panel is checked using a plumb line. The obliquely pasted panel will have to be torn off and replaced with a new one.

Wallpapering is done by two people. One takes the folded moistened cloth with both crayfish, holding it between the thumb and forefinger so that it does not tear. Standing on the table, he unrolls the cloth and places its upper edge against the wall. Another participant in the work, standing on the floor, supports the lower edge of the panel and helps align the edge with the vertical line marked on the wall. After this, the panel is lightly pressed to the base with your hands, and then the air bubbles are forced out with a brush using movements from top to bottom and from the axis to the edges. If glue appears at the edge of the panel, it must be wiped off immediately with a clean cloth. Do not brush over the glue that has protruded from the seam, otherwise the wallpaper may become dirty. If the glue protrudes from the seam, it means that too much of it was applied.

When gluing wallpaper in the corners, the panel should extend from one side to the other no more than 3-5 cm. The first panel on the other wall is glued from the very corner, overlapping these 3-5 cm. The joints and places where individual panels of wallpaper overlap should be pressed firmly against base so that they stick tightly.

It is not worth gluing the whole canvas into a corner, since it is almost never tightly attached to both sides in this place, and after drying it lags behind and may even fall off. To avoid this, remember: the last panel in front of the corner should be such a width that it covers part of the wall up to the corner, and the corner itself by about 2-3 cm. The remaining piece of the panel is glued to the other side of the corner. If at the same time there is a slight discrepancy in the drawing, it usually goes unnoticed by anyone.

To ensure that the wallpaper ending at the doorway does not separate from the base, it is recommended to lubricate the strip of plaster with glue, and, if necessary, the edge of the casing covered with wallpaper.

Above the window, the pattern of the canvas is disrupted. Some pieces of similar size left over from cutting will fit here. In addition, the wallpaper above the window opening is almost invisible, because it is covered with a curtain.

The problem with pasting is sockets and switches . It is inconvenient to trim the wallpaper around it, and most often it turns out uneven. To avoid disappointment, first turn off the electricity temporarily, and then remove the plastic covers covering the inside of the switches and sockets. When the glue dries, all traces will be completely hidden under the lid and you can turn on the electricity.

There should be no bubbles after the wallpaper has dried, but if they appear, they can be removed using a regular medical syringe filled with wallpaper glue. A needle is used to pierce the paper, forming a bubble, and the contents of the syringe are injected under the wallpaper, after which it is smoothed out.

Wallpapering ceilings . For gluing ceilings they produce special wallpaper– light with a barely noticeable pattern or white.

Preparing the ceiling for pasting is done in exactly the same way as preparing the walls. It is advisable to use an acrylic primer - the wallpaper will adhere much better with it. The coating can be applied 2-3 hours after applying the primer.

The adhesive composition is selected depending on the quality of the wallpaper. Gluing thick wallpaper is associated with additional difficulties, since even well-glued wallpaper on the ceiling can come off under its own weight. Taking this into account, they are more practical for gluing ceilings simple wallpaper, glued overlapping with thicker glue.

Rice. 2. Wallpapering the ceiling with one person working: afolding the panel; 6 - leveling the wallpaper on the ceiling

Wallpaper sheets are glued to the ceiling in the direction of the light rays along the broken lines. If the room has two windows on adjacent walls, then the canvases can be directed towards the window that lets in much more light (for example, facing south), or they can be glued along the length of the ceiling. It’s still better to apply wallpaper to the ceiling not lengthwise long side rooms, and across - this way the panels are shorter and easier to handle.

When pasting ceilings, wallpaper can be lowered onto the walls by 100-300 mm to form a visual cornice.

In a room with walls 2.7-3.0 m high, the ceilings are covered first. The panels are cut 50-100mm longer and placed on the wall. When pasting walls, these areas are covered with wallpaper.

In rooms with a height of more than 3.0 m, a frieze 200-300 mm wide is often left when wallpapering. In this case, wallpaper on the ceiling is also pasted with a transition to the wall, but the margin for this should be at least 250-350 mm on both sides (depending on the width of the frieze). Then they beat on the wall horizontal line top in such a way that the wallpaper panels of the wall overlap the wallpaper of the frieze.

Pasting ceilings is best done by three workers. The smeared cloth is folded like an accordion and served to the two workers above. One of the workers applies the first third of the panel (approximately) to the ceiling, and the second unrolls and applies the remaining two-thirds.

Wallpaper on the ceiling must be glued exactly to the designated location and quickly, otherwise it may come off.

If necessary, the canvases are supported for some time at the ceiling surface using a mop, etc., wrapped in a clean cloth.

Air bubbles are removed from under the canvas with a brush, smoothing it from the middle to the edges.

If you have to glue the wallpaper on the ceiling alone, they are folded like an accordion and the areas limited by the folds are alternately pressed to the ceiling. In this case, they smooth out the panel with one hand, and with the other they hold the remaining part, folded into an accordion.