An air compressor is a device that sprays paint. It is commonly used in workshops and garages to paint cars or inflate wheels. You can purchase such equipment in a specialized store or make it yourself. Unlike factory models, homemade equipment can be more efficient and last much longer. In addition, in terms of financial costs, independent production will be cheaper.
Using an accessory from a car, you can make a compressor of a simple design. This is ready electrical appliance - wheel inflation device. The compressor has two positive properties:
- Power. The device is capable of creating high pressure up to 5-6 atmospheres, without unnecessary load on the engine. This is the main advantage of automotive devices. But it will take about 10 minutes to pump up the wheels. Therefore, the work is done intermittently, otherwise cheap devices may overheat during this time. The reason is the low performance of automobile compressors.
- Performance. In a unit of time, the device is capable of releasing air quickly and in large quantities. Thanks to high performance, the container fills faster, and the direct use of compressed air makes the flow from the nozzle stronger.
A high-speed engine and a device with a volumetric piston system will help combine power and performance. To ensure that the equipment does not stop during overheating, it is necessary to create additional cooling of the cylinders. Sometimes turbines are used for the working unit. In everyday life for frequent use simple devices are not used because of their high cost. In order not to have to choose between power and performance, use a receiver.
The receiver is storage capacity . For industrial devices, a steel cylinder is used as a receiver. A fairly powerful, but not very efficient compressor slowly fills the cylinder. In a short period of time, a volumetric flow of air can be supplied from the receiver, but only when sufficient pressure appears. After the air is supplied, it should restore pressure. All devices operate on this principle. For a compressor with low power, an electric motor from a toy is suitable. This device is often used to supply air to an aquarium.
Functional homemade compressor
Unlike devices that are made from car accessories, the compressor from the refrigerator runs continuously. This is due to good power and performance. In addition, the quality is no worse than factory models. And if it is possible to get the components for free, then the production of such a device will cost a minimum. The device is designed for painting and blowing, tire fitting, and provides excellent performance for pneumatic tools. For the manufacture of a compressor for 220 V you will need the following parts:
- Motor-compressor from an old refrigerator.
- Tees, oil filling tube, hoses, fittings, air inlets.
- A reducer that will monitor the pressure.
- Two pressure gauges.
- Receiver. A fire extinguisher or gas cylinder, which should be completely empty. You can weld a homemade container from sheet iron and a thick pipe.
- Filter for air purification.
- Oil.
- Emergency valve.
- Start relay and pressure switch.
- Paint for metal.
- Fum tape, hacksaw and motor oil.
- Key and syringe.
Compressor assembly consists of several stages:
High power compressor
If the previous version of the compressor is not powerful enough for you, then there are devices with more high pressure and high productivity. An engine is used as a compressor internal combustion, the crankshaft of which begins to work not from fuel combustion, but from the reverse process. At the same time, the piston group of the device has a large margin of safety. An electric motor with a power of 3 kW or more is used as a drive, which can be purchased at a low cost. Or use a working engine, removing the ignition and intake system, exhaust, starter group and gearbox.
This device is capable of creating a pressure of 10 atmospheres. Very noisy.
Medium Power Air Compressor
From a gas cylinder or fire extinguisher a medium power air compressor is created. To do this, connect an old fire extinguisher (cylinder) and a powerful auto compressor to inflate the wheels. At self-production The device must comply with the following rules:
- Containers with mechanical damage and corrosive deposits cannot be used.
- The structure must be well fixed.
- A steel sheathing must be made. This is necessary if the receiver accidentally ruptures.
- It is necessary to provide a pressure reserve. If you plan to increase the pressure to 5 atmospheres, then its strength should be from 10 atmospheres.
- To ensure that the compressor automatically turns off when the pressure reaches its maximum, an emergency shutdown sensor is installed. Or you should install a mechanical valve, which, if necessary, will provide an emergency pressure release.
- The high-pressure device should not be left for a long time if it is used in rare cases. To maintain tightness, 0.5 atmospheres is enough.
Do not neglect safety precautions: do not forget about installing emergency sensors. An overinflated tire will simply burst, and if a steel cylinder explodes, you can get seriously injured.
It’s easy to make a compressor with your own hands. Its design can be simple or complex, the main thing is what it is intended for and how much you are willing to spend on its manufacture. But do not forget that the device must meet technical safety requirements.
Almost all car enthusiasts who make something in their garage every day understand perfectly well that with the tools and components in their hands, you can always create something necessary.
In the same way, you can create an entire compressor for painting a car from an ordinary compressor for a Soviet-style refrigerator.
But how to do this technically, and in what order?
Therefore, due to frequently asked questions from novice self-taught craftsmen, in this article you will learn how to make such a compressor on your own and using hand-made materials.
Which compressor to choose (factory or homemade)
The main criterion that should be followed when choosing a painting station is uniform air distribution, without foreign particles.
If such impurities are found, the coating will have minor defects - graininess, shagreen, cavities. At the same time, these particles can cause drips and stains, so it is best to entrust the painting to a branded air compressor, there’s just one catch - such a device is too expensive, which many car enthusiasts can’t afford.
Save money and at the same time create functional model you can by creating functional equipment, which is described in many videos and articles.
You just have to spend your precious time studying the material, and then creating equipment that should at least be of high quality.
The model presented by the factory or home-made does not matter, because the principle of its operation is the same and it consists in creating excessive pressure. But the method of pumping air is completely different - it can be produced manually or mechanically.
In the second case, this is a significantly higher cost of funds, manual method economical, but labor-intensive, requiring constant monitoring.
Automatic inflation does not consume your energy, but the product requires periodic maintenance, which is only worth the process of changing the oil for the compressor.
This is the only way to achieve uniform air supply and distribution. Having studied the theory, you will realize how easy it is to make a compressor station that will work efficiently, and it will not take much time.
We collect compressor unit from improvised means -
If you decide to create equipment for painting your own car, then you should stock up on certain materials for this:
- The reverse function requires a car camera;
- For the supercharger function you will need a pump with a pressure gauge;
- Chambered nipple;
- Repair kit and awl.
When all the components are prepared, you can begin to create a compressor station. To check how sealed the chamber is, you will need to pump it up.
If the problem still exists, then it can be solved in two ways - by gluing or vulcanization with raw rubber. A hole must be made in the resulting reverse to supply compressed air so that it comes out evenly.
A special nipple is placed in the hole for this purpose. The repair kit will serve for additional fastening of the fitting. To check the uniformity of air supply, simply unscrew the nipple. The original nipple allows you to get rid of excess pressure.
The pressure level is determined during operation, when paint is sprayed. If the enamel is applied evenly to the metal, then the installation is functioning. At the end of the procedure, it is worth determining the pressure indicators; to do this, just spray paint on the body of your car.
If the enamel lays down without tubercles, it means that the device is functioning efficiently. In addition, pressure indicators can be monitored using a special device - a pressure gauge. But, its indicator after pressing the aerator should not be chaotic.
As you can see, you don’t need any special tools or knowledge to create such a compressor. At the same time, repairing and painting a car in this way is more effective than using a spray can.
Remember that neither dust nor water should get into the inner tube. Otherwise, you will have to re-paint the car.
If this installation is used correctly and with the use of all knowledge, then it will last a long time, and if you also automate the air pumping, then the process itself will go quickly.
Alternative to a professional device (refrigerator compressor)
Homemade compressor devices last much longer than the presented time, even in comparison with domestic and foreign-made installations.
This is quite natural, because by creating it with our own hands, we do everything for ourselves. top level. Therefore, people even thought about how to create a compressor from a refrigerator that would be on par with the installations of popular companies.
But to create it you should stock up on such components as a pressure gauge, relay, rubber adapters, oil and moisture separator, fuel filters, gearbox, motor, switch, hose, clamps, brass tubes, but also small things - nuts, paint, wheels from furniture.
Creation of the mechanism itself
The whole procedure can be simplified by purchasing a compressor from an old Soviet-era refrigerator. This will not cost too much in terms of budget, and there is already a compressor start relay.
Foreign competitors are inferior to this model, because they are not able to develop such high pressure. But the Soviets cope with this task.
After removing the executive unit, it is advisable to clean the compressor from layers of rust. To avoid the oxidation process in the future, it is worth using a rust converter.
It turns out that the working motor housing is ready for the painting process.
Installation diagram
The preparatory process is complete, now you can change the oil. Since the refrigerator is old and it is unlikely that it has undergone constant maintenance, it is worth updating this point.
Since the system was always located far from external influence, maintenance work was justifiably not carried out there. To carry out this procedure, you do not need expensive oil; semi-synthetic oil is sufficient.
At the same time, it is no worse in terms of the presented characteristics of any compressor oil and has many additives that are used to advantage.
When examining the compressor, you will find 3 tubes, one of them is already sealed, but the rest are free. Open ones are used for air input and output. To understand how the air will circulate, it is worth connecting the power to the compressor.
Make a note of which hole sucks air in and which one lets it out. But the sealed tube needs to be opened, it will serve as a hole for changing the oil.
A needle file is necessary to cut the tube, but be sure to ensure that the chips do not get inside the compressor. To determine how much oil is already there, pour it into a container. With subsequent replacement, you will already know how much it will have to be poured.
Then we take the spitz and fill it with semi-synthetic, but this time expect that the volume should be twice as much as what was already drained. When the container is filled with oil, it is worth turning off the engine lubrication system; for this, a screw is used, which is pre-formed with fum tape and simply placed in the tube.
Don't be alarmed if you periodically have a day off air tube Oil droplets will appear. This situation is not too difficult to resolve; find an oil/water separator for homemade installation.
The preliminary work has been completed, only now you can begin the actual assembly of the installation. And they start with strengthening the engine, it is best to choose wooden base for this purpose and in such a position that it is on the frame.
It is worth noting that this part is very sensitive to position, so follow the instructions on top cover, where the arrow is drawn. In this matter, accuracy is important, because the correctness of changing modes directly depends on the correct installation.
Where is the compressed air located?
A cylinder capable of withstanding high pressure is a fire extinguisher container. At the same time, they have high strength indicators and can be used as attachments.
If we take the OU-10 fire extinguisher, which holds 10 liters, as a basis, then we should count on a pressure of 15 MPa. We unscrew the locking and starting device, instead of which we install an adapter. If you find traces of rust, then these places should be treated with a rust converter.
It is not difficult to remove it externally, but cleaning it internally is more difficult. But the easiest way is to pour the converter itself inside the cylinder and shake it thoroughly so that all the walls are saturated with it.
When the cleaning is done, the plumbing cross is screwed in and we can assume that we have already prepared two working parts homemade design compressor.
Carrying out installation of parts
It was previously stated that for fixing the engine and the fire extinguisher body, it is suitable wooden plank, it’s also even easier to store working parts.
In terms of mounting the engine, threaded rods and washers will serve, just think about making holes in advance. To fix the receiver vertically you will need plywood.
A recess is made in it for the cylinder, the second and third are fixed to the main board using self-tapping screws and hold the receiver. To give the structure maneuverability, you should screw the wheels from the furniture to the base.
To prevent dust from getting into the system, you should consider protecting it - using a coarse fuel filter for gasoline is an excellent option. With its help, the air intake function will be easily performed.
Since the pressure at the inlet of the compressor equipment is low, there is no need to increase it.
Having created an inlet filter for installation work with the compressor, do not forget to install an oil-water separator at the end to avoid the ingress of water droplets in the future. Since the outlet pressure is high, automotive clamps will be needed.
The oil-moisture separating filter is connected to the gearbox inlet and the pressure outlet of the supercharger. To check the balloon pressure, you should also screw in the pressure gauge itself with right side, where the exit is located on the opposite side.
To control the pressure and 220V power supply, a relay is installed for regulation. Many craftsmen recommend using PM5 (RDM5) as an actuator.
This device reacts to operation: if the pressure drops, the compressor turns on, but if it rises, the device is completely deflated.
To set the proper pressure, springs are used on the relay. The large spring is responsible for the minimum indicator, but the small one is responsible for the maximum, thereby setting the framework for the operation and shutdown of the homemade compressor installation.
In fact, PM5 are ordinary two-pin switches. One contact will be needed to connect to the zero of the 220 V network, and the second to connect to the supercharger.
You need a toggle switch to disconnect it from the network and save yourself from constantly running around in the direction of the outlet. All connected wires should be insulated for safety reasons. When this work has been completed, you can paint the installation and check it.
Pressure adjustment
Once the structure is assembled, it is quite natural to check it. We connect the last components - a spray gun or an air gun and connect the installation to the network.
We check the operation of the relay, how well it can cope with turning off the engine, and monitor the pressure using a pressure gauge. If everything works properly, we move on to checking the tightness.
The easiest way to do this is to use a soap solution. When the tightness is checked, bleed the air from the chamber. The compressor starts when the pressure drops below the minimum limit. Only after checking all the systems and bringing them into working condition can you begin the procedure for painting the parts.
To paint, you only need to determine the pressure and do not burden yourself with pre-treatment of the metal. In order to paint with a uniform layer, it is necessary to experiment and determine atmospheric indicators.
It is important to use the supercharger as little as possible. Every car enthusiast will understand the components and begin making a car compressor.
Can choose different variants production, but the use of navigator start-up and automatic pressure control is a more complex design, but its use is a sheer pleasure.
In this case, you will not have to devote time to monitoring the receiver, which will reveal more possibilities, and you can start painting a car, a fence or even a gate.
Routine maintenance is a mandatory procedure in order to prolong the operation of your homemade compressor.
To change the oil - drain or refill it, you can use a regular syringe. Filters are replaced only when necessary, when the rate of filling the tank chamber is reduced.
Compressor connecting components
When it is decided which compressor to choose and reverse, it is worth addressing the issue of combining them. At this point it is worth determining how the air will flow to the airbrush. The unit that is mounted to the receiver is responsible for air distribution.
The main thing is that these components are compatible with each other. The pressure switch is responsible for turning the compressor off and on. Although RDM-5 is used for water supply systems, it is perfect option for our case - for a relay.
The bottom line is that the connection element fits onto an external inch thread. To find out what pressure is in the receiver, you need to use a pressure gauge and first think about the size that is suitable for the connection. We supply pressure to the air preparation unit and regulate it within 10 atmospheres; at this stage it is necessary to attach the oil separator filter.
The pressure gauge allows you to check the pressure, and the filter allows you to prevent oil particles from entering the receiver. Turns, tees and even fittings are the next components that will have to be prepared for installation. To understand the exact number, you need to think through the diagram; select an inch as the size.
After solving the issue with adapters, it is important to think about the moment of installation of the structure; most often chipboard slabs are used for this. The design of your station should be maneuverable, because you will have to move it around the workshop. To make your work easier, you should attach roller legs to it.
You won’t have to invent for a long time here, just visit a furniture store, where there are a lot of such furniture wheels. To save space in your workshop, you can build a two-story structure. But here it’s better to stock up on large bolts to secure the structure. To simplify preparation for this stage, make a list of required components.
Assembling a semi-professional air blower
Assembly begins with removing the fire extinguisher screw and installing the adapter device. After removing the fire extinguisher valve, install the adapter there.
Four components are immediately installed on a durable hose - a reducer, a pressure switch and an adapter.
The next step will be to fix the wheels for installation on a sheet of chipboard. Since the structure is planned on two levels, it is necessary to make holes for the studs where the fire extinguisher will be placed.
The hydraulic accumulator is easier to assemble, because there are brackets on both sides. The lower part is fixed to the base, and the upper part is used for installing homemade equipment.
To reduce vibration when installing the compressor, silicone gaskets are used. The hose connects the outlet and inlet of air preparation.
The next stage will be the connection work. Jumper, protective elements - all this needs to be thought through.
The entire connection chain is carried out through the relay and the switch, assuming that the entire connection follows the diagram: the phase wire goes to the switch, the next connection is the relay terminal. To ground the relay, a special wire is connected.
What is better: buy or make a compressor yourself?
There is a wide range of compressor equipment on the market. Piston components, vibration units, screw stations - all these are components that are used in other areas.
If you wish, you don’t have to waste your time creating the installation; it is presented at any point of sale of auto parts or on specialized websites.
Such a wide range makes choosing the right product much more difficult. But if you decide to purchase a station, you should be guided in this matter technical indicators, cost and reviews from those who have already evaluated it.
If you're chasing warranty periods, then you should pay attention to models of popular brands. Expensive products are worth purchasing if you professional level doing repair work.
Products that do not have a name and status can let you down, so it is better to spend money once and not take any more risks in this matter. Many manufacturers budget options save on components.
As a result, you will encounter frequent breakdowns and replacement of parts, while warranty repairs will take a lot of time. Therefore, many car enthusiasts are well aware that a do-it-yourself installation is sometimes more reliable than a factory one.
Such products with technical indicators win. For example, the components homemade device for painting a car it lasts much longer - compressors from refrigerators can last for decades, a fire extinguisher also has a colossal safety margin.
You can always improve the performance of your compressor yourself, everything is in your hands, but you can’t experiment like that with a factory device.
Your garage neighbors will probably get one when they see a well-made and well-thought-out device.
Good afternoon In this article, using the example of my own compressor assembly, I want to show the method of building compressors from available parts for model airbrushing.
Main elements
The first step is to register technical requirements to our fruit of goblin engineering.
Since I purchased a new dual action airbrush, I needed a compressor with a receiver. The fact is that, unlike a single action airbrush, the new airbrush is able to control the air flow, lock it, and open the air duct. IN European countries many people use such an airbrush together with a separate compressed air cylinder, disposable or reusable; let’s leave the economic side of this aside. Air container - receiver- allows you to collect air like a cylinder. If air is continuously pumped into the air duct hose, then at some point the fitting may fail and the hose will fly out. Getting hit by a flying hose on any part of the body is extremely painful and unpleasant. And so - the airbrush uses air from a cylinder. So, a double-action airbrush involves the use of a receiver. We will return to it later.
The main thing is, in fact, yourself compressor. We will use a compressor from a refrigerator. Like a “pot” - because you can no longer find compressors of the “cylinder” type during the day, and they are all old. We decide on the choice of compressor using various sales sites refrigeration equipment. Probably the main criterion will be their price, since their air injection parameters are approximately equal. Some are stronger, some are weaker. Upon purchase, you can go to the store yourself, you can order delivery if they do not have a retail store and only work on the Internet. Before ordering, we look at the compressor model and write down the name of the company that produces it, using ctrl+c, or on a piece of paper. And we go to the manufacturer’s website. The manufacturer of the compressor that I found is Danfoss; on their website you can download a pdf file with a technical description of the compressor. Be sure to download it, we will need it!
Let's return to the receiver. The receiver should be a container designed to contain gases or liquids under high pressure. It is desirable that it meets the requirements of GOST. Let me make a reservation right away - a plastic bottle, plastic tanks, tanks and canisters do NOT belong to such things. Their use is a blatant violation of safety regulations! Let's consider the containers:
Option one- carbon dioxide fire extinguisher. A good option, tested, holds up to 10 atm. Very wide choose containers - 3,5,10 l. - it’s easy enough to get (you can buy it, you can get it “exhausted”). However, it has one significant drawback - a metric thread at the inlet. That's what I used. 
Option two- hydraulic accumulator. Decent choice of capacity, but has a small operating pressure. At the entrance - convenient 1 inch thread. It requires fine-tuning before use, since the inside is divided into a membrane containing carbon dioxide, which holds water under pressure. She needs to be pulled out. To get it, simply buy it at a construction hypermarket or construction market. 
Option three- oxygen balloon. Some samples can hold a huge number of atmospheres, however, either cylinders with an extremely small capacity or heavy, massive ones are available for welding work, and it’s extremely difficult to get other options. But if you get some medical equipment (I’m afraid it’s very expensive), you can set up an oxygen bar before assembly!!! =))) 
Option four- cylinders for various gases (propane, etc.) - easy to get, otherwise similar to a fire extinguisher. However, it is written on them that use for compressed air is not recommended. 
Connecting links between the gearbox and the receiver, air preparation unit
Now that the compressor and what will be the receiver have been determined, it is necessary to think about how they will be connected, and how compressed air will go to the airbrush.
The first is the unit that is attached directly to the receiver and ensures air distribution between the lines (it is necessary to mention that one of its main characteristics is compatibility with the connector on the receiver; I will mention screwing methods later).
The second is a pressure switch. The pressure switch must ensure that the compressor turns off when a certain pressure in the receiver is reached, and turns it on when the pressure drops to a minimum value. As a pressure switch - best option- relay RDM-5 for plumbing systems. It is very easy to find and is sold in most plumbing supply stores. Please note that the RDM-5 connecting element is designed for 1-inch external thread. 
Third, an indication of the pressure in the receiver is necessary. We buy a pressure gauge with a measurement limit of 10 atm. These have connection size 1. Important - you need a static device. 
Fourth is the air preparation unit. A certain pressure must be applied to the hose leading to the airbrush. Therefore, a gearbox is needed. The reducer must have a pressure control limit from zero to 8-10 atmospheres. Also, it is necessary that a pressure gauge be attached to it in order to see the value adjustable pressure, as well as an oil separator filter. Because even from the receiver, particles of compressor oil can fly. Attention - do not buy a lubricator filter under any circumstances - it performs a diametrically opposite function.
Fifth - Consumables, fittings, turns, tees. The main size of fittings is 1 inch; in order to calculate their number, it is necessary to draw a diagram of the air distribution and preparation unit. In addition to them, we will need several adapters from 1 to 1 inches, external and internal.
Having looked at all the parts and components, we’ll make a drawing of how it will all look assembled, for example, like this: 
Now let's think about the placement of the entire structure. As an option - ordinary chipboards. In order to avoid dragging the entire structure around the apartment and workshop, we will provide roller legs, which are easy to find in any furniture store. To avoid the installation taking up a lot of space, I decided to place everything on two floors. To make it easier to work in the future, let’s draw the following diagram: 
You will need either very long M8 bolts or short studs. As well as nuts and washers.
Now, to summarize the planning stage, let's write a list of required materials.
- Compressor - 1 pc.
- Receiver (fire extinguisher) 1 pc.
- Pressure switch - 1 pc.
- Pressure gauge - 1 pc.
- Filter reducer - 1 piece.
- Emergency valve - 1 piece.
- Fittings, adapters - based on the selected scheme
- Various plumbing gaskets, fum tape, sealant.
- Cables, switch, plug + various small items for laying and connecting them.
- A flexible hose (preferably oil-resistant), with a diameter that matches the outer diameter of the air outlet fitting of the compressor.
- Chipboard board for the stand, 4 roller legs, 4 M8x25 bolts or M8 studs, nuts, washers and other small hardware, as well as various tools.
Let's start assembling!
Compressor assembly
So, the shopping run is over, the diagram has been drawn, let's start the show =). The first difficulty I encountered was the assembly at the fire extinguisher outlet. There are several options here - dismantle the assembly and find a welder to weld the required adapter fitting. Due to my haste, I didn’t want to look for someone, so I did a simple thing - I unscrewed part of the valve (leaving the internal mechanics and removing the control element). An adapter with internal thread by 1 inch, into the other with a creaking screw the adapter from 1 to 38 was screwed in. Hand on heart, this (and, in fact, like the entire receiver) was made in violation of the rules for the operation of pressure vessels. It’s better to weld the new adapter with high quality (which, of course, is also not entirely according to the rules...).
The first stage of assembling the compressor is simple - we arm ourselves with a plumbing adjustable wrench, fum tape, sealant (attention, it subsequently hardens - if you want to make it for centuries - do not regret it!), and twist the adapters according to the plan outlined in advance. Important Note- in order to ensure a tight connection, it is not necessary to wrap everything “to the point of creaking” - according to the law of meanness - tees and turns will never fit desired angle. We install a reducer, a pressure gauge, a pressure switch, and an adapter for a flexible hose. Each stage of the process must certainly be accompanied by fitting to the fire extinguisher receiver.
Carpenter versus joiner
“The viper with wheels is here!”
KF "Kin-dza-dza"
The second stage of assembly is carpentry. I took ready-made chipboard plates “from stock” and screwed furniture wheels onto them with self-tapping screws, having previously drilled them with a thin drill seats for them (this way they are screwed in exactly in place and much easier). Be sure to ride the newly made product around the apartment (you need to check it out! =)) - you are guaranteed the attention and interested reaction of your family (from the category bad advice and here it would be worth leaving a note “never repeat this yourself”). Since I was making a two-level stand, the next step was to mark and drill holes for the studs. I screwed the nuts approximately to the middle of each stud, measured out the perforated tape with a reserve (so that it would be a “bed” for the fire extinguisher) and hoisted the latter to the place intended for it.
Attention!!! Be sure to cover all bitten areas of the punched paper tape with electrical tape or other soft material to avoid the possibility of injury, or process so that there are no sharp edges or burrs. 
After positioning the fire extinguisher on top, I placed two more perforated tapes and secured it with nuts.
If you use a prepared hydraulic accumulator as a receiver, then most small (5, 6, 8 liters) “horizontal” type models have wonderful claw brackets at the bottom and top. The lower ones can be screwed to the base, and a compressor can be placed on the upper ones. 
In my case, which I use as an example, the structure consists of two levels. The “second floor” of the structure must be prepared before installation. We find suitable holes on the legs of the compressor (there are many of them), and, maintaining the geometry, mark and drill them on the “second floor”. It’s okay if the holes are slightly larger than the diameter of the bolts (I used M8), wherever needed I used wide washers. We mount the “second floor” plate, looking at the diagram that we talked about in the first part.
We install the compressor. In order to reduce vibration, it is necessary to provide some damping elements. I used ordinary plumbing silicone gaskets as them, making a kind of shock absorber out of them. We fix the compressor, do not forget to put washers. 
We try on the air distribution module to the receiver. If something sticks out, or is simply poorly positioned, the design can be changed. After fitting, we screw it on. Using a flexible hose, fum tape and clamps, we connect the outlet of the compressor and the inlet of the air preparation unit. The clamps must be tightened well, ensuring a tight fit of the hose - otherwise oil may leak and splash on the compressor side, and air may leak from the air distribution module side. 
I sing the electric body. The finishing touches and...
“Mahmoud, set it on fire!”
KF "White Sun of the Desert"
First, a little theory about the motor used by the compressor. The compressor we are considering as an example uses a single-phase asynchronous machine as a drive. Therefore, to run it, you need different auxiliary devices. In our case, this is a starting winding with a capacitor. Carefully read the instructions for the compressor! The types of devices that provide drive starting can vary greatly between different models.
Now the most important thing is that you need to work with the installation’s connection diagram. There are several pitfalls here:
- The compressor is taken out of the usual connection diagram. For it to work, you need to install a jumper.
- It is advisable to provide protective elements ( circuit breaker) - a controversial issue, in principle, in case of any excesses, the automatic device should be triggered on the group of sockets to which the compressor is connected - installing another automatic device, in my opinion, is not necessary.
- The connection line must go through the relay and switch.
- Sometimes, it is necessary to connect a capacitor to the compressor. It depends on its type. Be sure to check the specifications and manual for the compressor you are using.
The connection must be made according to the following scheme:
From the plug we lead the phase wire (L) to the switch. Next, connect the phase wire to the desired relay terminal. The neutral wire (N) remains intact, if there is a ground wire, but if there is no ground wire, we connect the neutral wire to the ground terminal of the relay (a protective ground is obtained), from the relay we lead the phase and neutral wires to the compressor drive starting device (the box is like this it on the body), and according to the diagram we connect it to the corresponding terminals. It turns out something like this:
General form connection diagrams. Connection diagram for relay RDM-5. Please note - we use terminal L1 to connect the phase, as well as the corresponding terminal on the top block - from it the wire will go to the compressor. L2 is not used! Also, under no circumstances connect the pads to each other - then the relay will not work.
From a regular plug (2.5 mm2 cable), through the switch, to the pressure switch (it is marked there where to connect what) and to the compressor. The cable at the plug can be of two types - with ground, phase and neutral, if your house is new, or simply with phase and neutral, if the house is old. In principle, you can stop worrying and connect the ground to the neutral conductor, as is done in old houses.
So, now for the system to work, we’ll install a jumper. It is installed directly on the terminal block of the starter. It is best to connect by soldering, but you can use crimp contacts of a suitable type (they are indicated in the description of the compressor). The jumper is shown in blue:
Jumper connection diagram in the starter.
This jumper is very important, as it ensures the connection of the windings to the phase.
At the end, carefully lay the cables using plastic ties and self-adhesive pads for them. Carefully inspect the cables for insulation integrity, and also check each connection for mechanical strength. Check carefully to see if there are any opportunities for short circuit- each wire must be carefully stripped and have contact only with the terminal intended for it.
Now we check everything, launch it, and start painting the models! =)
In contact with
An air compressor operating on 220 V is needed in a home or garage for various purposes: it is easy to inflate tires, make repairs by driving pneumatic tools, blow off dust and shavings from treated surfaces, and use it as a spray gun. In specialized retail outlets there is a wide range of pneumatic compressors, and such a unit costs quite a lot big money. But if you wish and have certain skills, you can make a compressor at home with your own hands.
Any compressor, or with your own hands, works according to simple principle – the motor forces air into the container, where it is under the required pressure, which is controlled by a pressure gauge. When the pressure drops to the lower limit, the engine begins to operate, and when the set value is reached, it turns off. Depending on the purpose that the compressor will serve, you can make either a simple or a semi-professional device.
The unit is mounted on a base or frame, for which you can use any available material, for example chipboard sheet or plywood the right size, where all parts are placed in such a way that they are provided with easy access in case of maintenance, or if necessary, make repairs. Old KamAZ brake tanks, which already have threads for fittings and a condensate drain valve, or an empty fire extinguisher cylinder, are perfect for the role of a receiver.
Sometimes several containers are used, and then the necessary bushings and tubes are welded into them to connect the rest of the system. A moisture separator must be installed in the design and air filter which are sold in finished form. Metal or oxygen hoses used for gas welding are used as connecting tubes. From automatic equipment, a starting and pressure switch are purchased separately.
What will you need?
The main part of a hand-made product is a motor-compressor.It can be purchased separately, but such devices are not powerful or reliable, and are also quite expensive. For this purpose, it is suitable, which is devoid of such shortcomings, and repairs to such a unit during normal operation are extremely rarely needed. Also you will need the following materials.
I have been dreaming of buying a compressor for two years now. Very useful device for a wide variety of work in the garage: inflating wheels, painting with a gun, blowing out engine parts, and so on. On average, a simple compressor costs 10 thousand rubles, a homemade one cost 300 rubles, plus a bunch of rubbish that was lying around the house. An old compressor from a refrigerator, a gas cylinder, a 10 BAR pressure gauge, angles and tees made of brass, plugs for them, nipples with threads from metal moped inner tubes, clamps, washers.
For production I used a compressor from a refrigerator cylindrical installed horizontally. It has a capacity of 10 l/min, this is very little compared to industrial ones, but I don’t need anymore, say, for 5-10 seconds to bleed air at a low pressure of 3 Bar, when in the receiver (I’ll tell you about it later) the pressure is 8-9 Bar.
For the receiver, I take a 50L gas cylinder. I drained all the gasoline from it ahead of time. I tried to unscrew the tap, but no matter what methods I used, the tap would not budge.
Since the cylinder tap has a left-hand thread, I decided to make a 3/4-inch adapter with a right-hand thread. I took a high pressure hose and two adapters from 3/4 to 10mm with left and right threads. The result is such an adapter
I assembled a simple splitter from tees and angles and made a test switch.
In 45 minutes the cylinder gained a pressure of almost 9 bar, with a receiver volume of 50L this is approximately 430L of air
I filled it a couple of times, and then lowered the cylinder upside down to remove the remaining gas and gasoline, and then began a thorough assembly. The position of the cylinder is horizontal, I welded the compressor mount on top and installed all the wiring with a pressure gauge. I secured the circuit with clips mounted on nails welded to the cylinder. The compressor was connected to the circuit with a hose, secured with clamps
I drilled a hole in the plug, inserted a nipple into it and placed it on top rubber gasket. The plug was clamped onto the tap, and there were two tees in a row to the tap: one outlet to the receiver, the other to the pressure gauge. Next I screwed on a corner, a coarse filter to the corner, a coupling to the filter and the same plug as on the other side.
A filter had to be installed so that the oil that is squeezed out by the compressor would settle and not get into the receiver and pipes.
All that's left to do is weld the legs and paint everything the same color. There was one leg at the front, two at the back. All legs are remains of a corner
I haven’t set the machine to turn off until I don’t have the money to buy it. For the same reason, I did not install a pressure regulator. As soon as I have the money, I’ll finish it, but for now it’s enough as it is.
Similar video from YouToBe
I won't paint it, I'm too lazy.
With uv. Admin check
