For a comfortable atmosphere in the house, it is necessary that the plumbing work properly. At the same time, I would like to note that the sewerage system and toilet, which are its components, play an important role. In turn, for the toilet to work well, you need to pay attention to it technological features, its design, as well as the condition of the reinforcement.
What types can there be?
Before deciding how to choose fittings for a toilet, let’s try to understand what should be understood by the word “fittings”. This word should be understood as all the constituent elements that are aimed at ensuring the operation of plumbing, which includes, among other things, the toilet.
According to the functions performed, the following types can be distinguished:
- fittings that block the flow of water after the tank is filled;
- fittings that provide drainage of liquid.
Each type constitutes separate mechanisms, which, nevertheless, are closely related to each other. The latter circumstance leads to the fact that if one of them breaks down, the second one stops working too.
How is the tank filled?
The function of filling the tank, as described earlier, is assigned to the mechanism in question. Let's highlight its main details. Thus, the shut-off system is a set of shut-off valves, levers, float and supply fittings.
Several levers usually form a single set of metal or plastic parts connected to a float. To make the latter, foam or a hollow plastic balloon is usually used; it is designed to regulate the water level in the drain tank and determine when the tank is full.
At the same time, all shut-off valves works as follows. First, the liquid fills the drain tank. In this case, the float rises to a certain limit.
As described earlier, the float and levers are connected, therefore, when the float reaches a certain limit, the lever acts on a valve specially installed for locking, and the flow of water is blocked.
You can also highlight different types fittings according to the location of the liquid supply. Thus, water, if there are fittings for a toilet with a side connection, can flow from the side, while the water supply is usually located on top.
With this arrangement, water is usually drawn in with great noise. The least noise is created by water supply from below. Water can also be supplied from above, but this is a rather rare design.
Thus, fittings for a toilet with a bottom connection seem to be the most preferable.
How to drain
Let's consider the principle of operation of the fittings that ensure the drainage of water. Components such fittings will be:
- release hole having a certain angle of inclination;
- an overflow tube is required;
- The system is not complete without a valve cover and rubber band
- An important part should also be considered the drain button and the system of mechanisms that ensure its operation.
At the same time, there are several systems that differ in design. So, there is a full flush system with a button; a system that has two modes of water drainage, provided with a special function - you can interrupt the drainage of liquid.
In the latter case, an analogue of a key is used that releases either the water completely or partially. I would like to make a separate point about the rod fittings used for the toilet, which operate on the basis of the rod.
There are three types of float valves. These are piston-operated valves equipped with a special lever. "Croydon" - this mechanism was used earlier, in modern toilets, as a rule, replaced by another. A valve based on a silicone or rubber membrane that replaces a gasket.
It should be added that if the float fails, the entire locking system will have to be replaced completely.
When choosing fittings for a toilet, pay attention to the choice of high-quality, durable plastic parts so that the fittings are resistant to overheating and cooling and can withstand mechanical loads.
The membrane valve must be selected taking into account the fact that salt-rich water with impurities quickly damages the membrane. It is also recommended to choose products of a good brand to exclude defects. It is also useful to familiarize yourself with photos of toilet fittings before purchasing.
What to do if it breaks down
If problems arise during the operation of plumbing, then to eliminate them it is worth following a certain algorithm. First, find out the causes of the breakdown, adjust the water flow level, and replace worn parts.
Then you should clean the channels, as well as system parts, from plaque and dirt. In case of serious damage, you should contact a specialist.
Photo of toilet fittings
Complies with the requirements of TU 4953-001-02903999-2014
AB 69.57.55.3
Purpose of the product
Designed for filling the flush tank (popularly a cistern) with water and supplying it for flushing into the toilet.
Security measures
The materials used for the manufacture of fittings are not emitted into environment harmful substances and do not provide harmful effects on the human body through direct contact. Working with fittings does not require special precautions.
Specifications
- Operating pressure range, MPa 0.05 - 1
- Filling time for a 6.0 liter tank, no more than 2.5 minutes
- Level stability: change in water level when pressure changes by 0.1 MPa, no more, mm 5.0
- Diameter of the hole in the tank lid, 38…44 mm
- Installed resource is not less than 150.0 thousand cycles
- Connection size G1/2-B
- Product weight, no more than 0.62 kg
Completeness
The fittings kit includes:
Product storage and care
The fittings should be stored packaged in dry indoors at a distance of less than 0.6 m from heating devices.
Not allowed to use detergents, which include abrasive, acid-alkali-containing substances, and organic solvents.
Manufacturer's Warranty
The guaranteed service life of the fittings is five years from the date of commissioning, but not more than six years from the date of release. The service life of the fittings is 6 years.
The product warranty does not apply in the following cases:
- its mechanical damage;
- installations in violation of the requirements of this instruction;
- improper maintenance during operation:
- water inconsistencies technical requirements GOST 2761-84.
To increase the reliability and durability of the fittings, it is recommended to additionally install a filter in the water supply network.
Installation of fittings
The fittings are supplied assembled, complete and configured for certain type tank
After installing the fittings, do not allow the moving parts of the valves to touch each other or the walls of the tank.
When connecting the water hose to the inlet valve, hold the valve from turning.
To avoid leakage from under the gasket, tighten the wing nuts evenly on both sides.
Check that there is a gap of 3 - 19 mm between the tank cap and the push-button assembly inserted all the way into the thread of the release valve (without screwing it in).
To reliably center the threads, before screwing in, make 1–2 turns counterclockwise until a characteristic click is heard, which will indicate that the thread has “sat” into place.
- If the distance between the reservoir cap and the push-button assembly is beyond
limits 3...19 mm, it is necessary to adjust the release valve in height
(see Fig. 2 and the table for setting the height of the fittings), Disconnect rod 23 from
overflow housing 12. Press out the cup latches 10 and move
racks 6 up and down, achieve a gap of 3...19 mm.
Attach the rod to the overflow body.
- To adjust the water level in the tank
disconnect rod 2 (see Fig. 1), move
float up or down and reattach
craving for him. Minimum distance between
water level and the upper edge of the tank 45 mm.
- After adjusting the water level in the tank, adjust the overflow pipe 7
(see Fig. 2). To do this, unscrew the bayonet cap 9 and move the pipe
overflow to a position where the mark on the pipe corresponds to the level
water in the tank. Tighten the bayonet cap.
* For fittings with extended post
** when adjusting to this division, remove the overflow pipe 7
Reinforcement height adjustment table
| Division on the rack scale | Height H, mm | Division on the rack scale | Height H, mm |
| M** | 285-304 | 15 | 360-379 |
| 1 | 290-309 | 16 | 365-384 |
| 2 | 295-314 | 17 | 370-389 |
| 3 | 300-319 | 18 | 375-394 |
| 4 | 305-324 | 19 | 380-399 |
| 5 | 310-329 | 20 | 385-404 |
| 6 | 315-334 | 21 | 390-409 |
| 7 | 320-339 | 22 | 395-414 |
| 8 | 325-344 | 23 | 400-419 |
| 9 | 330-349 | 24* | 405-424 |
| 10 | 335-354 | 25* | 410-429 |
| 11 | 340-359 | 26* | 415-434 |
| 12 | 345-364 | 27* | 420-439 |
| 13 | 350-369 | 28* | 425-444 |
| 14 | 355-374 | 29* | 430-449 |
Possible malfunctions and ways to eliminate them
| Fault name | Probable Cause | Remedy |
| Valve does not close | ||
| Valve does not open | Clogged hole in the slider 5 - guide 3 assembly | Disconnect guide 3 and wash the assembly with the slider |
| Slow tank filling | Filter 11 clogged | Unscrew the water supply hose, remove filter 11 from housing 8 and rinse |
| There is water leaking into the toilet | The bottom valve 13 is installed incorrectly on the overflow body 12 | Adjust the bottom landing! valve 13 on overflow body 12 J by rotating around its axis |
| Nut 21 is loosely tightened | Tighten nut 21 | |
| Overflow pipe 7 is incorrectly positioned | Adjust | |
| Thrust 23 is set incorrectly | Adjust | |
NOTE: Due to the presence of various impurities in the water, the operation of the release valve may deteriorate over time due to sediment deposited on its parts. In this case, it is necessary to disconnect the valve from the seat, wash it and reinstall it.
Valve drawings
Intake valve (bottom connection) | Rice. 1
Release valve | Rice. 2
Fittings for cistern | Video instruction
Video courtesy of uklad.net
To write this article, I used the instructions included with the fittings and tank.
I also bring to your attention:
Toilet lid installation | Video instruction
The video provides extensive instructions for assembling and installing toilet seats.
With adjustable plastic, non-adjustable plastic fasteners, microlift and metal fasteners.
I wish you successful installation!
Looking at the ingenious interweaving of sewer, water pipes, hoses, having “talked” a lot with gentlemen plumbers from the housing department who arrived on a regular visit regarding an extraordinary blockage or leak, after a superficial study of the structure of the toilet, having re-read a bunch of responses and advice from experienced people, Volence-Nolens comes to I conclude that a toilet with a bottom water supply is the best option.
The undoubted advantages include:
- neat, aesthetic appearance a toilet, thanks to which sewer and water pipes are not visible;
- the bottom line is practically silent and economical - the water does not “run”, since the water flow comes from the bottom of the drain barrel;
- The lower line is reliable and rarely requires repairs.
There are also disadvantages:
- this type of liner is difficult to install;
- difficulties when replacing parts - it’s easier to completely replace the system.
The efficiency of sanitary equipment directly depends on the quality of cleaning sediment from the outlet pipe elbow; this function is performed by fittings for cistern toilet.
Tank drain device
The flush cistern consists of:
- a reservoir containing water;
- fittings;
- drainage systems;
- water flush buttons.
How to choose fittings for a cistern
Initially, the diameter of the water intake pipe is measured with a tape measure or ruler. At 1.5 cm the eyeliner is 3/8 inch, at 2.0 cm it is ½ inch.
It is better to buy fittings of the same model as the old one. To do this, dismantle the failed mechanism and show a sample to the sales consultant. Nowadays, fittings are often sold already assembled, which does not require additional effort. 
How the fittings for a toilet cistern with bottom supply are arranged
The materials from which the fittings are made are plastic, metal, bronze. Plastic is the most popular, but fragile material, the cost of a product made from it is low, bronze is a correspondingly more durable material and the cost of a product made from it is quite high. There is nothing complicated in the structure of the cistern fittings. Despite the variety of models, the principle of constructing reinforcement is the same. 
The fittings intended for the lower supply are divided into:
- The drain mechanism is secured in the tank with a union nut. To seal the joint, put on the drain pipe before installation. special seals, and between the drain tank and the bowl there is a gasket that prevents water from leaking. Water is drained by pressing a button or with a rod drain device, by lifting the lever up.
The push-button device, in turn, is divided into:
- a one-button device that provides complete drainage, that is, the entire tank is emptied;
- a two-button device in which complete and partial emptying of the tank is possible; accordingly, such a drain device has two valves.
- Also different designs could be a float:
- With a piston - a float is attached to the piston, when pressure is applied to the lever, the drain opens, when water fills, the valve closes;
- With a membrane, the mechanism of action is the same as with a piston.
- The shut-off valves consist of: a float, a water overflow tube, a push-button mechanism for draining water, a rod, a glass, and a membrane valve. Draining occurs as follows: after pressing the button, water flows out of the tank, the float goes down, the diaphragm valve opens with a pull, and water pipe water flows and fills the flush tank. The float rises to a set level, which limits the draft. The diaphragm valve closes, preventing further water flow.
Materials and tools required for installation and replacement of fittings
- Tape measure, you can get by with a regular ruler.
- Adjustable wrench No. 1.
- Spanners.
- Fittings.
Installation of fittings
Even a non-professional can install the mechanism in the flush cistern. Initially, you should read the instructions included with the kit; you shouldn’t neglect to study them.
- First, the filling valve is installed; adapters and gaskets are used for this. For some toilet models, the filler and inlet valves are installed simultaneously.
- The system can be installed in a cistern up to complete installation toilet, to do this, place a rubber gasket on top of the drain system. Place the mechanism directly into the flush tank and secure it with a nut.
- All fasteners intended to secure the mechanism are equipped with rubber gaskets on the inside and plastic gaskets on the outside. Rubber gaskets can be treated with sealant. It is advisable to carry out this procedure even for new membranes and gaskets. Replacing a failed gasket or membrane by disassembling and assembling the device.
- If the toilet is not monolithic, then the gasket located between the tank and the bowl is also treated with sealant.
- Parts of the fittings should not touch the inner walls of the tank; a gap of 0.5 cm should be left.
- Upon completion of installation, the flush tank is installed on the toilet.
- Place the lid on the tank and screw on the flush button.
- Add water and test the drain.
How to adjust toilet fittings
If the drain test gives poor results, adjustments should be made. The rod from the overflow pipe is disconnected, the drain system lock is released so that the glass can move easily. The position of the fittings is carefully adjusted to the required level - about 5 cm to the top of the cistern, fix it, insert the rod so that the water overflow tube is immersed in water by 2 cm. The flush mechanism can have the function of draining a full or half of the cistern. The system for draining half of the tank is adjusted by adjusting the float for the smaller drain. 
Dismantling of fittings
- Turn off the water and drain it from the tank.
- Unscrew the button counterclockwise, if it is attached directly to the tank lid, remove the lid.
- Unscrew the nut connecting the system to the water supply hose using a wrench.
- Remove the old mechanism.
Causes of valve failure
- The appearance of a leak outside when draining means the gasket is leaking. The nut connecting the pipe and the tank should be tightened. If the leak does not stop, then the access to water is blocked, remove the nut, pull out the pipe, remove the gasket and either replace it with a new one or wrap it with FUM tape. Ten windings of tape will be enough.
- The water stopped draining. First check the water level in the container. If it is lower than required, then adjust the float.
- Water has stopped flowing into the tank. The reason is a clogged valve. To eliminate it, drain the water, remove the valve, use a needle or thin wire to clean the hole through which water enters the tank, and then rinse.
- Water is constantly flowing. Check the float for distortion and depressurization. You can check the integrity of the float by removing it and lowering it into a container of water. If it starts to take on water and sink, then replace it.
- The drainage is uneven and jerky. Check the fasteners of the flush mechanism lever. If the rod does not rise, then most likely the fasteners have become loose. Tighten the bolt and adjust the lever.
- The release lever does not work and needs to be replaced.
- Appearance limescale– purchase special means to remove it or use citric acid.
The fittings of a toilet tank are a kind of “filling that ensures the collection, retention and drainage of water. The material for the manufacture of fittings can be plastic or metal (brass, steel).
In this article we will learn how to adjust the fittings in a toilet cistern, as well as its types and features.
Mostly modern models toilets are equipped plastic fittings. It is quite durable, not subject to corrosion processes and negative influence chemical substances, present in water.
The operation of the toilet is directly dependent on proper operation shut-off valves, which are responsible for draining and supplying water. Today, you can see many different models of this device on the plumbing market. Moreover, there are not many types, since the shut-off valves are of the same type, suitable for different modifications.
The design of the shut-off valves can be separate or combined.
Previously, only a separate configuration was used to install a toilet. In it, the installation of the filler and drain valves is carried out separately, and they operate autonomously. The operation of the fill valve is controlled by a float.
When the water in the tank rises and is blocked by the float under the influence of traction.
The drain assembly is a neck with a valve.
The valve comes in two types - air and mechanical. Controlled by pedal, button or key.
The advantage of shut-off valves is that in the event of a breakdown, only the damaged unit can be replaced or repaired, rather than changing the entire system.
This affects family budget and facilitates installation and dismantling work. Therefore, the use of such systems is still relevant today.
Elite class presents latest models products that use shut-off valves in a new design. In it general system connects the drain and fill valves.
Setting up this type of fittings is quite complicated. But when installed correctly, it guarantees safe and flawless operation of the unit.
The disadvantage of this system is the need complete replacement in case of breakdown and difficult repairs.
Shut-off valves are also distinguished by the material they are made from.
Mainly used for its production polymer materials. The quality of the materials that make up the plastic determines the quality of work and durability.
Metal fittings are distinguished as the most durable and durable. These materials are characterized by moisture resistance and resistance to mechanical stress.
Usage single shut-off metal fittings provided by manufacturers only for elite models. Separate systems can be installed in any toilet.
Upper and lower shut-off valves for toilet
Shut-off valves are divided according to characteristics such as installation location and method of water supply.
The design of the system will depend on which side of the barrel it is built in, which will definitely be taken into account when replacing damaged elements.
There are differences in installation between fittings with top and bottom water supply. Both systems involve closing the valve by the action of a control rod, which is connected to a float, which is a container made of plastic or foam.
When installing fittings, it is necessary to carry out careful balancing. This is necessary for the productive operation of the system, which depends on the water level of the drain barrel.
In domestic toilets, fittings with top water supply are installed.
This system is placed in the side of the tank.
The disadvantage of this design is the noise that the water supply system creates.
Toilets foreign manufacturers are equipped mainly with shut-off valves with bottom water supply. This design is silent, more comfortable and provides the model with a stylish look.
The upper system is installed after installation work in the tank, and the lower fittings are arranged before its location on the structure.
The drain valve is much simpler than the water supply unit.
There are no locking mechanisms here, since this design does not need it. The drain valve is controlled by a rod.
It is a chain or barbell.
Previously, when installing a toilet, a lever located on the side or at the top of the cistern was commonly used.
Nowadays, most models are equipped with a button.
This mechanism provides two modes of water drainage. With different intensity of pressing the button, either the tank can be completely drained or half can be drained.
By pressing the lever or button, the flap opens, which closes the upper fitting and the water drains into the toilet. Then, under the weight of the damper, it returns to its place and the valve closes.
The process of installing toilet shut-off valves
You can use separate fittings, but it will be better and easier to use branded systems that come with toilets. In this case, all elements will match exactly.
Materials that will be required to complete the work of installing the tank:
Work on installing the tank should begin from the base drain device. A rubber gasket is placed between the bottom and base of the tank. After the tanks, it is placed directly on the toilet, placing a rubber ring between them to prevent their surfaces from touching each other.
Screwing the tank to the toilet is done using bolts.
The most important thing here is to secure the rubber gasket well to prevent leaks.
These elements are not needed for the upper fittings, since it is located above the water. These units are also installed after the tank is installed.
Installation for one and the other type is basically the same. The tube is inserted through the hole in the tank and tightened on both sides using nuts.
The next step is to attach a flexible hose to the water supply riser, namely to the fitting, and install a tap that allows when carrying out repair work turn off the water in the toilet.
The modern hose is equipped with a nut-spacer clamp, which ensures a reliable connection. But plumbers usually play it safe and use fume.
Having brought the tank to the water supply, it will be necessary to adjust the float. The water level should be about fifteen centimeters lower than the edge of the tank.
The equipment involves installing a water drainage mechanism. The upper element is inserted through the hole in the lid and secured decorative element, covering the hole.
Cost of services
Several factors influence the price of toilet cistern valve replacement services.
Such as:
- nature of the work and level of difficulty;
- additional work.
The cost of dismantling and installing new fittings ranges from five hundred to eight hundred rubles, and you will have to pay about two thousand rubles to replace the drain tank.
Many companies use an additional coefficient for installing expensive plumbing equipment. In general, quality work on replacing a cistern and price have nothing to do with it. There are a huge number of companies and they all work in different price categories.
During the operation of the cistern, problems such as leakage or constant flow of water may arise. The reason may be in the draft or in the membrane, and they will need to be replaced.
If it is difficult to fill the tank, you must first check the connections and supply hose.
If you do not understand this, then in order to avoid troubles it is better to seek help from qualified specialists.
The first priority after installing the toilet in place and connecting it to the sewerage system is to install the cistern fittings. From correct installation And quality regulation this plumbing equipment will depend on trouble-free operation the entire system. The tank fittings are a device that ensures that it is filled with water after emptying during draining, automatic regulation the amount of water drained and control of its overflow. How to install the tank fittings correctly, read our article.
Installation of cistern fittings
The fittings for the toilet cistern consist of the following components:
- angled drain hole;
- an overflow tube installed on the side of the drain hole;
- valve covers with rubber;
- tank filling mechanism;
- drain button mechanism.
Before setting up the toilet fittings, let's consider its main components.
Tank filling mechanism
This device ensures that the toilet tank is filled with water to a certain level. This mechanism includes:
- float device;
- stop valve.
A float attached to a metal or plastic lever lowers or rises as the water level in the tank changes. When the tank is filled with water, the float rises, reaching the maximum level. The lever connected to it closes the shut-off valve, and water does not flow into the tank from the water supply system. When the water is drained, the float lowers and the lever allows water from the pipe to enter the toilet tank.
Water drainage mechanism (drain mechanism)
The flush mechanism is designed to allow water from the tank to directly enter the toilet. Components of the release mechanism:
- drain siphon;
- release lever (handle).
The siphon hermetically closes the drain hole, preventing water leakage. There are several types of siphons. The simplest form drain siphon - the familiar “pear” - a rubber cylinder similar in shape to a plunger. The device for flushing water into the toilet (raising the “pear”) most often consists of either a lever located on the side of the tank or a handle on the lid, which must be pulled up to flush the water. More modern version drain device - a button that is located on the front wall of the tank. This mechanism is most often installed on tanks that are built into the wall.
Installation and configuration of fittings
After installing the toilet in the designated place and then connecting the toilet to the sewerage system, the next step is to install the cistern fittings: video offered as small instructions, will help to carry out this work correctly.
Installation of toilet cistern fittings
Let's consider the technology for installing toilet cistern fittings:
- To put on drain mechanism rubber gasket.
- Install the mechanism into the tank, screw it with a plastic nut.
- Place plastic or iron washers (depending on the configuration) on the mounting bolts and rubber gaskets. Insert bolts into holes. On the other side, put on the plastic washer and tighten the nut.
- Place the rubber O-ring on the plastic nut. If a new ring is used, sealing is not required. If you used a ring that had already been in use, you should carefully coat all connections with sealant.
Pro tip: A careful inspection of all design details may reveal minor defects casting In this case, you will also need to use a sealant. The installation site of the sealing ring must also be coated with a layer of sealant, having previously cleaned it.
- Place the tank on the toilet platform and secure it with nuts.
- Secure the filling mechanism. Attach the hose from the water supply pipe.
- Replace the reservoir cap. Screw on the drain button.
Pro tip: You should not wrap anything additional around the threads of the mounted mechanism to drain water when putting on the hose. Try not to allow distortion, so as not to break the thread and damage the part.
Adjustment of fittings
Installing a toilet and cistern should not cause much difficulty. But in some cases, additional adjustments to the toilet fittings may be necessary. So, to adjust the height of the drain valve:
- Disconnect the rod from the overflow pipe.
- Release the glass clamp.
- Move the stand down or up.
The water level in the barrel is adjusted as follows:
- Adjust the position of the glass - raise or lower it along the guide, leaving a distance from the top of the glass to the top edge of the tank of at least 45 mm.
- Install the overflow tube 20 mm above the maximum water level and 70 mm below the top level of the rack.
To adjust the small flush, the small flush float must be moved down or up relative to the overflow tube. How to set up a full flush? Move the damper (up or down) relative to the glass.
Adjusting the toilet fittings to full or low flush means that moving the float or flapper down increases the flow of flushed water.
