All photos from the article

When carrying out carpentry work in his home, any amateur craftsman must have for them convenient device. It will guarantee the comfort and safety of your activities, and will also significantly intensify them.

Our article is devoted to how to make a woodworking bench on your own.

Typical desktop design

A carpentry workbench is essentially a massive and extremely stable work table on which processing takes place. wooden blanks different sizes. The larger the device, the heavier and larger elements can be processed on it.

However, you can work on it hand tools: saw, chisel, brace, etc., as well as mechanical: electric jigsaw, plane, drill, etc.

Layout of elements

A workbench for working with wood has the following typical elements.

1. The working surface (tabletop, lid) is made of boards. They must be dry and have a thickness of at least 5 - 6 cm. The best option- use impregnated drying oil: oak, hornbeam, beech. Otherwise, the cover will wear out quickly.
2. A vice is installed on the front side of the tabletop to secure the workpieces.

Note! If the length of the workbench is more than one meter, it is best to hang a couple of different vices for processing small and large elements. Large vices can be made of wood, and small ones can be made of metal.

1. The supports (legs) are usually made of soft wood: linden, pine, maple, etc. They are connected to each other by longitudinally spaced planks. This way the structure gains strength and stability.
2. Fixed on supports in the space below the workbench cover, you can place pull-out or tightly fixed shelves, drawers or cabinets for tools.
3. On the front side of the tabletop, before making a workbench for wood, you should drill holes for mounting wedges, clamps and other devices for fixing large workpieces.
4. A recess should be made on the back side of the cover, necessary for processing small parts.

make carpentry workbench Every home craftsman can do it with his own hands. This work takes a lot of time, but the benefits from a well-equipped workplace outweigh both labor costs and investments in building materials. In this article you will find full information for self-construction of workbenches for carpentry work.

Carpentry workbench – workplace optimization

A comfortable work surface will be useful for any craftsman. And the carpenter needs an equipped work area more than other specialists. After all, he will have to tinker with large-sized workpieces, the length of which reaches 3 meters, and in this case he cannot do without a well-designed work area. Even a simplified folding workbench allows you to process timber or boards and assemble products from the resulting blanks. A large table top with stops makes it possible to fix the lumber in any position, processing not only the surfaces, but also the edges of the timber or board. A special vice will help secure workpieces during sawing, drilling or connecting several elements.

In addition, in the drawers and shelves of the workbench you can store parts of future products, tools and all sorts of household items. Moreover, not only a wooden carpentry version, but also a metal workbench assembled on the basis of steel corners can be turned into convenient storage. At the same time, a craftsman who is not too familiar with construction can make a carpentry workbench with his own hands, organizing and optimizing the space in the workroom. For this you will need general drawings or understanding the workbench structure, Construction Materials And step-by-step instruction for assembly. You will find all this below in the text.

Types and design of workbenches for carpenters

In modern carpentry, only three workbench designs are used. Firstly, the mobile option is a portable structure that can even be installed on a balcony. This model will also be useful for those craftsmen who want to get a universal workbench for metalwork and carpentry work. The main advantage of this option is its small size, the main disadvantage is small area storage You can’t put all the tools in such a table.

Secondly, a stationary workbench is an option for a full-fledged workshop. To place this model you need big room, but it will also fit into a large garage. This workbench can be either wooden or steel - it is possible to assemble any structure, because there is no need to move it. The main advantage of the model is its wide functionality, coupled with ample storage space. The main disadvantage is the dimensions and the need for a large volume of building materials.

Third, modular design– workbenches of this type occupy an intermediate position between stationary and mobile options. The model structure allows you to increase and shorten carpenter's table, legs and other elements. Therefore, the main advantage of this option is the combination of optimal dimensions and functionality. And the main disadvantage is the complicated design. Build modular metal workbench It’s not so easy to do it yourself, and you may have problems with wood.

Eventually optimal model For self-construction should be recognized precisely stationary option, since mobile does not provide all the benefits and modular is too difficult during assembly. Moreover, regardless of belonging to one of the varieties, any workbench contains the following structural elements:

• Support (bed, frame) - a system of vertical and horizontal beams that hold the tabletop, workpieces and tools.
• Working surface (tabletop) - in the language of professionals, this element is called a workbench board. All the necessary grooves and recesses for stops are made in it, which are useful for fixing the workpieces being processed. Therefore, such a board must be massive and reliable.
• The front vise and box are essentially huge clamping blocks that compete with clamps. They fix the workpieces at an angle to the plane of the work table, pressing them against the side edges of the table top. Moreover, a folding workbench has only one vice, while a stationary one has at least a couple of clamping blocks.
• Shelves are storage places that are located under the countertop.

And all these parts, with the exception of some parts of the clamping block made of metal (screws and nuts), are assembled from wood, which simplifies the selection construction materials for building a workbench.

What materials are needed for assembly - getting ready for work

You will be able to build a carpentry or metal workbench with your own hands only if you get the following materials:

• Plywood sheet with a thickness of 18-20 millimeters and total dimensions of 2.5 × 1.25 meters. Moreover, try to choose a perfectly flat sheet, without bubbles or dips on the surface - it will go on the countertop.
• Beam 10×10 and 6×6 centimeters. The frame will be assembled from these elements, therefore, we need about 4 meters of “ten” (for the legs and crossbars) and at least three meters of “six” (for the strengthening elements). At the same time, try to choose timber without knots and cracks.
• Boards 2 meters long - they will come in handy when assembling the tabletop. And upon completion of them you can.

In addition, we will need the following tools: a drill with feather and ordinary drills, circular saw (circular), clamps, glue Moment(for wood), square, level, bolts with nuts and furniture screws with corrosion protection. After all these materials and tools have been purchased and taken to the place of placement and assembly, you can build a workbench out of wood with your own hands, based on our step-by-step instructions.

DIY assembly - step-by-step instructions

Before you do it, try to read these instructions from beginning to end, going over in your head all the assembly steps described below. If you understand the entire procedure, then self-production workbench will take up a minimum of your personal time. Moreover, our step-by-step instructions are designed for people with minimal experience in carpentry. Well, the assembly process itself looks like this.

At the first stage we assemble the table. For this plywood sheet shorten to 1.52 meters circular saw and divide into two parts. As a result, two blanks with dimensions of 1.52 × 0.61 meters remain in the hands of the master. They will serve as the basis for the countertop. And the remaining part 0.98 × 1.25 will be useful to us in the future. Next stage– gluing a solid workbench table from two plywood blanks. To do this, you need to lubricate their surfaces with glue and, having folded the plywood boards, tighten them with clamps, and on central part You can put a 30 kg load. Moreover, three 1.5-meter boards need to be placed under the clamps, ensuring a tight fit when placed along the long edge of the sheet.

In addition, you need to take into account the fact that when gluing, the plywood sheets must be connected with their convex sides (when overlapping each other), otherwise the entire array will unfold into an arc, which is undesirable. Next we move on to strengthening the 36mm laminated wood. To do this, we need to cut strips 15 centimeters wide from the remains of the plywood panel and glue them around the perimeter, with reverse side countertops. The result should be a table 54 millimeters thick, consisting of three 18 mm layers of plywood. Moreover, the amplifier strips will play the role of stiffeners.

After this, we cut the array to dimensions of 1.5 × 0.6 meters. This step will allow you to trim the ends, eliminating overlays and protrusions that formed during the assembly of the tabletop from three layers of plywood. The trimming itself is carried out with a circular saw at low tool feed. The circular saw must be moved very slowly along the plywood, otherwise you will get torn edges. The next stage is the assembly of the vertical elements of the frame. To do this, we saw a 10×10 centimeter beam into four 0.9 meter long sections. We get vertical supports. And as the legs (the lower tie between the vertical beams) and the drawer (the upper tie) we will use a 6x6 centimeter beam, cutting out the corresponding grooves in the legs. The places where the legs and drawers are attached should be coated with glue and reinforced with bolts or self-tapping screws.

Next, we must install vertical supports at the location of the workbench and assemble the entire frame, tightening them with horizontal longitudinal ties. They can be made from 6x6 cm timber, secured in a tenon or overlap, with bolts or self-tapping screws.

We will lay shelves made of 1.5-meter boards on the lower screeds, and a tabletop on the upper ones. Therefore, before attaching the ties, we must trace the vertical and horizontal of the assembled frame. Otherwise, the table will be tilted. The tabletop is fastened to the frame using 8-mm self-tapping screws, the heads of which must be recessed into holes drilled with a feather drill. Before fastening, the table is pulled to the upper longitudinal ties and drawers with clamps.

This completes the assembly of the table, and we can move on to installing the vice. Moreover, not everyone can make a carpenter's vice for a workbench with their own hands. Therefore, we suggest that beginners pay attention to ready-made models, the installation of which occurs in the following sequence: we screw the fixed jaw of the vice to the end of the table, and fasten the threaded element to it. We pass two threaded guides through the holes in the movable jaw and screw them into the fixed jaw. We insert handles into the heads of the guides, by rotating them you can move the moving part of the vice towards the stationary one.

After completing the installation stage of the vice, you can use the workbench at your discretion. Moreover, round or rectangular holes for stops can be cut in the tabletop as needed, placing them as you see fit.

It is not difficult to assemble a carpentry workbench with your own hands.

A good workbench should be in the household of everyone who works with wood or performs carpentry work.

Before we look at the drawings and start assembling the workbench, let’s get acquainted with its structure and manufacturing nuances.

The workbench consists of a workbench board and a base (underbench).

The board has a vice - one or two, in which the master clamps the parts with screws.

You can place the emphasis directly on the working board of the workbench using wedges that are inserted into holes in the board itself, thereby you can adjust the length of the emphasis in accordance with the length of the workpiece.

The bench board is made of dry wood or plywood up to 8 cm thick. The bench board is made of bars with a thickness of 6 cm.

The underbench is supported by 2 racks, which are transversely fastened together by beams with screws/wedges.

This is necessary so that the workbench does not “move” from side to side when planing and sawing.

Workbench structure in detail:

• The worktop is made of solid wood/plywood with a thickness of 6 to 8 cm;
• Vise on the front of the table top;
• Workbench supports are made of solid wood/plywood, connected by cross bars for stabilization;
• You can install shelves and a tool box on the supports;
• Holes for wedges are drilled in the tabletop to support the workpieces;
• You can make a recess on the side or back of the work board to store tools.

The complete structure of the workbench is shown in the photo below.

1 - cover; 2 - subsurface; 3 - tray; 4 - front clamp; 5 - rear clamp; 6 - sockets; 7 - adjustable wedges (combs)

Workbench dimensions

Here we meet the first important nuance, which cannot be ignored when making a workbench with your own hands - its height and length.

The minimum permissible height of the workbench is 130 cm, length is no more than 260 cm.

The height of the workbench is adjusted to the height of the person working on it:

• too high will not allow you to push hard, which is important when planing;
• a low workbench will force you to constantly hunch over, which will have a bad effect on your back health after just a couple of months;
• the height will be normal if you stand straight, have your back straight and can place your hands on the board without bending your elbows.

Manufacturing nuances

Making a workbench has its own nuances, the observance of which guarantees the production of a workbench that will perform its functions flawlessly.

There are a lot of nuances, so we structure them in relation to each stage of the future assembly process:

1. Initial stage of work. You need to start with a working board. Someone will rush to look for an expensive solid wood, and not just any kind, but according to science - oak, beech or ash. Experts will advise you to take a ready-made wooden tabletop, which will cost an order of magnitude less;
2. Working with the future working surface of the workbench. The surface must be made smooth, therefore any wood prepared for the role of a workbench board must be properly sanded. To varnish or not is up to you;
3. An important point is that a workbench is a type of table. Your task, in essence, is to make a table on which they cut not sausage, but wood. Therefore, having assembled the workbench, fasten it thoroughly on four legs and then connect them with transverse slats to each other for stability;
4. Drawers – important element comfort. Take the drawer out of the bedside table and pay attention to how it is installed: there are a pair of guides in the shape of the letter “P” along which the side slats of the drawer slide. Nail two guide rails at a distance from each other equal to the width of the drawer and you’re done;
5. You need a sawing table if you are going to saw. The table is placed 20-30 cm beyond the board itself. It is a small board that is attached to the desktop with screws (see photo);
6. The bench board must be straight. Planing, sawing, burning, carving and other manipulations can be carried out strictly on flat surface and nothing else;
7. Don't forget the wedges! Wedges are needed to provide emphasis when planing the workpiece. In the table, at a certain step (10-15 cm), you need to drill a row of holes (several rows in a row), into which you will then insert rounded wedges. If possible, use a drill bit square holes– square wedges hold the stop better due to their shape than rounded ones, which are prone to deflecting the vector of the applied load - the workpiece will fly out of the stop every now and then.

Practical instructions for creating a workbench

So, it's time to make your own carpentry workbench. Each stage of assembly is accompanied by a description and photo of the process.

At the end practical instructions Watch the video summarizing the assembly process step by step. We do not provide drawings of the folding version, since it is much more difficult to manufacture.

Let's look at the assembly step by step.

Step 1 – take measurements

Is your back very tense or not? If everything suits you, measure the distance from your palm to the floor - this will be the total height of the workbench.

Step 2 - making the legs

Take ready-made bars required height, or buy plywood and cut the sheets into strips of the required width.

Now they need to be glued together: take wood glue or powerful epoxy, put several layers on top of each other, simultaneously gluing them together.

You may need 10 of these strips of plywood for each leg. It is better to glue together 10 sheets of plywood at once and, after drying, cut them into 4 parts.

Step 3 - making the frame of the workbench

We take a ready-made board, 4 cm thick - 4 pieces, which will be the sides of the frame-box and assemble the box, placing the sides on the screws.

In another case, you can also take several sheets of plywood, glue them together and then saw them evenly.

But in order to properly connect them together later, it is better to use a router and lamellas.

Having drilled the necessary holes, we assemble the wooden box: we place it on PVA glue using the dowels of the board, and clamp it with clamps. After drying, we attach the legs to the box with self-tapping screws.

Step 3 – assembling the tool shelf

From glued plywood (5-6 sheets) we cut out a shelf that is placed in the grooves.

The shelf needs to be secured with confirmations: use a special drill (see photo), which simultaneously chamfers and drills.

The confirmation must be recessed, since this part of the shelf will be used as a guide for the drawer. Now the base of the table is ready.

Step 4 – making a drawer for the countertop

We take a sheet for the bottom and again 4 strips of plywood from several glued layers. By internal parties We will make grooves on two side walls for the bottom of the box.

And on the outside of these walls we make grooves by milling so that the box can move freely on the shelves. We select the cutters as follows: the smaller one is the thickness of the bottom, the larger one is the thickness of the side strips + 1-2 mm.

To secure the side wall, we install dowels: drill holes for the dowels at the ends of the walls, mark a point for drilling on the adjacent wall with a pencil and drill to a small depth.

Then we place the dowels in both holes using PVA glue. For final assembly When installing a drawer, you should use countersunk screws that will not interfere with the opening and closing of the drawer.

Step 5 - making the tabletop itself

Again we cut strips of plywood glued together in several layers for the base of the table top. We connect the strips into a box using dowels and PVA.

If you use round dowels, then you need to take at least 4 of them for each connection.

While the tabletop box is drying, we assemble its working board: we take wide sheets of plywood and glue them together in several layers.

You can also choose a tabletop from an old one desk and then just adjust it to size. We glue the tabletop onto a box reinforced with dowels.

Step 6 - install the vise

As soon as the glue has set and the tabletop is ready, we drill holes in it for wedges for stops and for attaching a vice.

Typically, the vice is placed on 3 holes: two for fastening with bolts, one for the screw that imparts pressure when the handle rotates.

The vice can be taken from an old workbench or purchased ready-made and then simply adjusted to the tabletop by drilling holes of the required pitch.

A bench vise is a metal screw with guides and a wood clamp.

You can take several layers of plywood about 5-7 cm thick and simply drill holes in it and put it on a screw - you will get a stop, then put snap brackets so that the vice does not fall out and you're done.

You can drill holes in the stop according to the size of the dowel large diameter, then attach it with a screw to a square of plywood, having previously drilled a recess in the square.

Make 4 such stops and place them all over the tabletop to fix the workpieces with the stop in a vice.

Our workbench is ready!

(All the above steps are shown separately in the video of the assembly process)

Rules of care and use

There are a number of rules that must be strictly followed in order for the workbench to last as long as possible:

• Clean the surface from dust and glue after each use;
• Wipe the surface once a month with hot drying oil;
• Do not flood the workbench with water or place anything adhesive on it, including parts to be glued.
• The chopping workbench is not used under any circumstances;
• Place a board or plywood under the workpiece if you want to use a cutting tool.
• Do not over-tighten the vice screws;
• When the screws are tightened, do not hit the vice;
• The workbench is attached to its permanent location using strips with screws or nails;
• The bench board should not move. Otherwise, strengthen all its connection points;
• Wipe wooden screws with dry soap, paraffin or graphite, and metal screws only with machine oil.

I want to weld a workbench for the garage. Locksmith, as in a workshop.
To cook on it, and to sharpen, and to fasten a vice, and to put tools in drawers.

I managed to visualize my intentions. I spent a long time going through different layout options and estimating the dimensions. I think I have found the best option for myself.

Blue indicates metal parts, yellow indicates wooden parts.
The tabletop will be made of a 50mm thick board, surrounded by a 50x50x4 corner and covered with a 2mm sheet of metal. The workbench frame will be welded from profile pipe 60x40x2. Stiffening ribs will be welded from a 40x40x4 corner. Shelves and side panels will be made of 30mm thick boards. Guides for attaching the side panels will be made from a 40x4 strip. The boxes will be welded from 2mm metal and installed on powerful skids.

To purchase metal, we agreed with Dikiy to order a Gazelle for two in order to pay less, and on Saturday at 8:30 in the morning, so as not to drag it out over the whole day, we went to the metal depot.

The weather was slippery and with a cold wind. A loader in a torn army pea coat, who looked to be suffering from a hangover, was taking out wet metal for cutting. Nearby, in a puddle, lay a dirty carrier with a grinder connected to it. Cut pieces of rolled metal splashed into a slush puddle. The ordered Gazelle was waiting nearby. It was getting light.

Don’t call me a maniac, but after arriving at the garage, I washed with water and wiped dry the grimy, rusty pieces of freshly purchased metal. You still need to clean it before painting, otherwise it will be more pleasant to work with.

On that harsh January morning the following were purchased:
1. Corner 50x50x4 6.4 meters
2. Pipe 60x40x2 24 meters
3. Corner 40x40x4 6.75 meters
4. Strip 40x4 8 meters
A total of 121 kilograms of metal worth 4,000 rubles.
Now I will cook my workbench.

Cutting the main frame parts took two evenings, a total of five hours.
In total, it turns out that the skeleton of the workbench will consist of 45 welded parts.
The tags indicate what it is and where to weld it.

Now you can calmly put everything on the back burner and surrender to the thick, stinking, sticky quagmire of your daily hopeless routine.

Welded brackets for the tool panel above the workbench.

And the base for the homemade table top was welded.

The cross members of the base for the table top are welded flush with the corner. For this purpose, figured cutouts are made in the crossbars. Here is a small drawing of what it looks like:

In the meantime, I welded the instrument panel brackets.

Reinforced loaded joints with 4mm strip overlays.

I welded 24 brackets for the side panels. The panels will be plywood - cheaper than metal, and look better.

The brackets provide additional rigidity to the entire structure.

I want to cover the tabletop with a 4mm or 5mm sheet of metal. There is an office on Moskovsky Prospekt that immediately cuts sheets of metal to size. I need a sheet 2200x750.
If you take a sheet of 2500x1250, then there will be two good pieces left (2200x500 and 300x1250) or (2500x500 and 750x300), which can also be chopped into the required sizes.
If such pieces will be useful to someone, then let’s cooperate, otherwise it’s a little expensive for one.

I made boxes from 15mm plywood. I assembled it with 80mm screws. Each box contains 20 screws. It turned out solid, just the way I like it.

The size of each box is 0.6m x 0.7m x 0.2m

The slides were secured by welding. I learned how to weld a 1mm tin to a 4mm strip with a 3mm electrode at a current of 100 amner. It's like putting in food processor 3 liter V8 car engine. It was just that TIG was too lazy to uncover. Moreover, it holds securely anyway.

Now I'm thinking about different options facades.

This completes the welding stage. There's carpentry and painting ahead. Some other little things like plumbing and electrical wiring.

Painting the frame homemade workbench.
I asked the seller to recommend a good paint.
- Wow, what a good paint, I swear by my mother! - he answered, handing over a can of rust paint with metal chips for 500 rubles.

I covered the tabletop with a 150x40 edged board. I fastened the boards to the frame with 4.0x35 self-tapping screws. In total I used 60 self-tapping screws.

I sanded the surface a little so that the sheet of metal lay more tightly.

He talked about protecting wood from fire. Impregnated wood cannot support combustion on its own.
When impregnated wood is heated, a melted film is formed, which does not burn and limits the access of oxygen to the surface. The manufacturer of my impregnation declared group I fire-retardant efficiency - the highest.

Of course, this does not allow you to weld metal directly on the surface of the workbench. The boards will still char if they don’t catch fire. To organize a welding station, I plan to weld a removable grill that will reliably protect the surface of the tabletop from heat.

After drying, I will cover the tabletop with an already prepared 4mm sheet of metal.

Covered the tabletop with a 4mm sheet of metal. The leaf was attracted to wooden base rows of self-tapping screws with a hidden head. The tabletop turned out to be monumental.

I used 10mm plywood shields to cover the extra openings in the workbench frame.
The photo shows a paint shop.

Registered permanent residents on the tabletop - grinder and a vice. They get lost on a hefty tabletop.

1) What is the best way to cover the bare metal on the countertop? I'm leaning towards a rust converter that will create a durable protective film and which is easy to update if necessary. Maybe there are better ideas?
2) Where can I get a durable chair with adjustable height?

P.S. I think it will be interesting for those reading this thread - a bourgeois site with a bunch of ideas for welded tables and other welded things: http://www.pinterest.com/explore/welding-table/ Following the links you can find the manufacturing process of everything presented.

Still, I took the plunge and coated the countertop with rust converter. Apply a thin, even layer.

While the tabletop was drying, I finished with the shelves in the left drawer

Well, in general, greasing the countertop was not a bad idea. It really turned out to be a film, as if it was covered with varnish. True, it is not covered very neatly, but it is really easy to restore - because... the film is easily dissolved by a new portion of the converter and dries again, hiding all old damage.

From the large one, all that remains is to make a panel for tools and place fasteners for everything, everything, everything on it.
I want to hang a sheet of plywood or a solid one furniture board 15mm thick and 2.2 meters x 1 meter in size. If anyone has one, I suggest exchanging it for a 4mm sheet of metal 2.2 meters x 0.5 meters (left over from the countertop).

Well, actually, that’s why...

Test passed

Class! You no longer have to huddle with hand-held power tools on stools, lay out tools, fasteners, screwdrivers, taps and tape measures on all available shelves and nooks around and look for them, forgetting where you put them - everything is in one place and at hand.

Mounted the tool panel. Solid, made of 21 mm plywood.

4 corners 50x50x4 plus 21 mm plywood plus 16 bolts 8x40 equals hanging tens of kilograms of tools without fear of breaking anything

I made the fronts for the drawers from the remains of 21-gauge plywood.

That's all.
The dream workbench is ready. Some things came out a bit crooked in places, but I'm very pleased with the result.

The net weight of the workbench exceeded 200 kilograms. The tabletop area is 1.65 square meters, the toolbar area is 2.2 square meters. The total volume of the left and right cabinets is almost the same cubic meter. The special feature of the workbench is that you can sit at it while working with TIG, and the tabletop covered with a 4mm sheet of metal is not afraid of mechanical damage. Spacious shelves, drawers and panels allow me to conveniently store almost all the tools I have, providing convenient, quick access to them.
This is the homemade workbench of your dreams.
I think my great-grandchildren will also work on it.

P.S. And after a little modification you will get an excellent makeup table)) -816- http://gazeta-v.ru/catalog/detail/192_vizazhist_i_fotograf/15464_grimernyy_stol_svoimi_rukami/

Well, to put the finishing touches on the project, a few more photos.

The screws are screwed in and out quickly and easily (if you have a screwdriver, of course).

I'll finish it over time spanners, holders for drills and screwdrivers, a holder for paper towels, and additional lighting. Luckily there are two square meters there is room to turn around. I made an awesome thing. Satisfied like an elephant.

Firstly, the small vice could not withstand the load and burst.

Instead, a more powerful vice is installed. On one side they have a cast five pointed star, on the other there are numbers 1958 - probably the year of manufacture. So they are 56 years old? I hope they last me as long. In general, a good vice is the pride of a master.

The photo shows that the tabletop does not protrude much beyond the dimensions of the table. Therefore, when attaching a vice to bolts, it will not be possible to crawl from below to tighten the nut. That's what I intended. The vice and sharpener are fixed to the tabletop using anchor bolts. Looks neat and holds up to death.

Secondly, it turned out that the deep drawers in the right cabinet are not very convenient. It would have been better to make them smaller. I will come up with some kind of organizers inside them.

Otherwise it turned out great. All tools are in one place, visible and always ready. There is also room to spread out on the large tabletop.

You can purchase some things from this blog in our VKontakte group:

1. Design features
2. Types of workbenches
3. Material of manufacture
4. Preparatory stage
5. Tools and materials
6. Assembly instructions

A carpenter's workbench, or lathe, is a massive, stable, stationary or portable workbench. On it manually or electrical equipment process workpieces of various calibers. To ensure reliable fixation of the tool, the tabletop is equipped with technological holes.

Design features

Workbenches for home workshops should be easy to use and include shelves and drawers. Design:

• supporting frame on four legs;
• tabletop made of wood or metal sheet;
• a bedside table (one or more) for storing accessories and spare parts.

Bedside tables are installed at the edges work surface, often equipped with shelves and drawers.

The garage or workshop where the carpentry table will be installed must have an outlet for turning on a stationary rotating directional lamp. The lamp is usually mounted on the wall or directly on the work surface - a workbench board.

Types of workbenches

Tables are:

• carpentry,
• locksmiths.

In the first case, the structure consists of metal or wooden frame And wooden table top. Not suitable for processing metal blanks, when turning which it is used machine oil: wooden workbench absorbs oily liquid. In addition, metal shavings quickly render the lid unusable.

The second option is a universal workbench. Its galvanized iron worktop is suitable for working with wood and metals. The design is more stable, durable, and can withstand increased pressure. It can be used for sharpening, grinding, sawing, and cutting workpieces. The workbench can be monolithic or folding. A drawing of a homemade workbench is shown in the image.

Material of manufacture

To make a homemade carpentry workbench, you will need an edged board or sheet metal. Metal table more resistant to mechanical stress, but difficult to assemble.

To make a workbench from metal, it is necessary to draw up a drawing with the dimensions of individual elements. When assembling a folding or solid workbench from a board, you will need a regular set of tools.

The metal sample is heavy, the wooden one is not very durable. You can combine these two materials in one product: make a desktop from wood, reinforce the tabletop thin sheet gland.

Preparatory stage

First you need to determine the shape and dimensions of the workbench and choose the location for its installation. To workplace was always well lit, the light should fall from the left or directly. Often, sockets with extension cords are mounted on the surface of a workbench.

The length of the table top must be sufficient for processing workpieces and placing tools.

The optimal width parameters are 50–60 cm. One edge of the table is usually used for working with a circular saw and other power tools. Therefore, a safety strip with a protrusion of 20–30 cm is fixed there.

Convenience during work depends on the height of the workbench. In order to determine this parameter, you need to stand up straight and bend your elbows. The distance from the floor to the arms bent at the elbows is optimal for a stationary or folding workbench.

Tools and materials

Required:

• welding machine;
• corner Sander with a saw wheel designed for cutting metal;
• drill, screwdriver;
• level, roulette
• welding machine, set of electrodes;
• electric jigsaw for cutting plywood.

Materials:

• Metal corner, steel strip 4 mm thick.
• Sheet steel 2 mm thick. Guides for drawers and the top covering of the tabletop are made from it.
• Board wooden thick 50 mm, 25 cm wide for work surface.
• Plywood 15 mm thick. Designed for drawers, workbench walls.
• Fastening elements: metal screws, anchor bolts, screws.
• Two-millimeter square pipe.
• Paint for painting wooden and metal surfaces.

From edged boards construct a table top, shelves, strips of steel will be useful for making edging sides.

Assembly instructions

To begin with metal corner make 4 identical legs. The supports in the upper part are connected by a similar angle using welding machine. The resulting structure should be 50 x 100 cm. To provide the table with additional rigidity, pieces of corner are welded at a height of 10–15 cm from the floor. If desired, you can provide racks that serve as fastenings for drawers, shelves

Wooden boards must be laid on the frame, securely secured with bolts, having previously provided metal carcass and the boards themselves have technological holes for fastening elements.

Wooden countertops cannot withstand increased loads. For protection, galvanized iron of suitable size is used. It is secured on top of the boards with self-tapping screws.

When cutting, metal edges often become covered with burrs. For safety, it is recommended to sand them with a file.

For greater stability, the legs at the bottom can be equipped with metal plates with holes for fasteners. It is also recommended to screw the workbench to the floor. A metal screen is often installed on the side of the structure adjacent to the wall. It is convenient to place small tools on it.