Ceilings made of lining look simply gorgeous, in modern style and emphasize individual design rooms. The characteristic stripes that are formed as a result of finishing the lining on the ceiling can visually make the room more spacious and the ceilings perfectly smooth.

Recently, lining has become a popular material and is used not only for wall cladding, but also for finishing ceilings. It is easy to work with and virtually anyone who is not lazy will be able to update their ceiling by decorating it with clapboard.

Types of ceiling frames

The first thing everyone should know is that when installing lining on the ceiling, you need to make a frame. The main task of the frame is to separate uneven and unsightly surfaces from your future new ceilings. The frame will also allow you to bring the ceiling into a single plane and provide the entire structure with good strength.

The ceiling lining is sewn on top of the frame, so you will need lathing in any case, no matter what anyone says. The frame itself is much simpler to make than a frame for plasterboard ceilings. You can use either simple wooden slats.

Choosing the material from which to make the frame is very simple. Here everything will depend on the operating conditions and the wood from which the board itself is made. For rooms where the humidity level is exceeded, it is better to use a metal profile for the frame and. For the kitchen it is also necessary to use a metal profile, and finishing material– clapboard can already be used here.

Types of lining

In any other premises, a frame made of wooden beams will be great solution. It can also be combined with many materials. Secondly, the process of installing the lining on a wooden frame is much easier than on a frame made of a metal profile.

Lining - panel

Simulates normal wooden beam and has more simple form. It comes in both wood and plastic.

Eurolining

It has a deeper tongue-and-groove connection and a larger tenon. This technology promotes better ventilation premises, drainage of moisture and various evaporations. Most often used for facade cladding. For interior decoration It is used more often than Lining-Shtil, since the cost of Eurolining is much cheaper.

Lining – Shtil

The material has a perfectly smooth surface that does not have grooves - recesses on the front part of the board. Used for interior decoration of walls and ceilings.

Lining – American

Simulates the laying of boards overlapping, as a result of which the joint between the boards is perfectly protected from various natural influences. Often used for exterior decoration.

Tools and materials

When working with lining, and with wood in general, you need to keep the following set of tools with you so that your lining ceilings are flawless.

• An ordinary hammer.
• A screwdriver or a drill with a hammer.
• and a construction corner.
• Accurate tape measure.
• Jigsaw or hacksaw.
• Metal scissors, if the frame is made of metal profiles.

The materials themselves for lining ceilings must be selected according to previously drawn up calculations. Timber for wooden frame can be used from 20x20 to 50x50 millimeters.

Remember!!! The thicker the timber, the lower the level of your ceilings. The lining will hold perfectly on a frame made of 20x20 beams.

To mount the beams to the ceiling, you need to purchase plastic dowels that come with screws. The length must be determined based on the thickness of the beams, the lining itself, as well as the length that will be recessed into concrete floor. The screw should sit perfectly in the slabs, and not hold on to them with the very tip. Usually they take screws marked 8x45 or similar anchors.

If you decide to make a frame from a metal profile, then here family budget will be devastated much more. Since the number of frame components will increase significantly and you will additionally need:

• Guide profile – UD.
• The profile underlying the frame is CD.
• Fastenings “Crab” and “U” - shaped fastenings.
• Self-tapping screws for metal.

To install the lining itself on the frame, you can use construction stapler, self-tapping screws with a press washer. If the frame is wooden, then you can use ordinary nails.

How to attach a wooden frame

The first step is to mark the future ceiling from the lining. To do this, you need to find the lowest point on your ceiling from which to measure down the wall 6-10 centimeters and put the first mark. It will need to be transferred to all walls using water or laser level. It is according to these marks that you will check the horizontalness of the mounted frame for the future ceiling.

Important! When using wooden beams or other wood materials, remember that they are necessary first and to increase fire safety.

Wooden beams are mounted to the ceiling strictly perpendicular to how the lining itself will be mounted. The step between the bars should not exceed more than 100 centimeters. If the finishing material is PVC panels, then the pitch of the beams should not exceed 60 centimeters.

If you decide to make the ceiling not only elegant, but also improved, for example: then in this case the step between the beams should in any case be no more than 60 centimeters. Since usually the so-called “slabs” mineral wool or other heat and sound insulating material are also 60 centimeters wide. The bottom edge of all beams should be parallel to your floor and flush with the rest of the beams. Be sure to use a water level.

Along two walls we fasten two beams with different sides. The distance from them to the wall should not exceed 15 centimeters. We clearly check the level not only in the middle, but also along the edges of the beams. Next, in increments of 60 centimeters, we continue to mount the beams, checking our work using a level different points. In places where the beam lags behind the ceiling due to curvature, it is necessary to place wooden pads, which can be made from the remains of the beam itself. Next, we stretch the fishing line and use it to fasten the entire frame for the ceiling from the lining.

If you are not sure of the reliability of the structure you have made, then you can install additional cross bars, which will also ensure the rigidity of the entire structure. You can strengthen it only at those points where, according to your plan, lamps or other elements will be installed. Be sure to carry out all the necessary wiring before installing the beam. That’s the whole principle of making a wooden frame for lining ceilings.

Metal carcass

As everyone knows, a metal profile for creating various types of ceilings is universal and suitable for absolutely any finishing material. The frame itself and its installation system will be exactly the same as when creating a frame for suspended single-level plasterboard ceilings. Therefore, I don’t really want to repeat myself.

Lining made from wood or MDF will be laid on the ceiling in the same way. All boards need to be prepared and cut to the same size as the distance between the walls. It is also necessary to take into account a small gap of 5 millimeters between the lining and the walls in order to protect yourself from thermal expansion. If you are not entirely sure that your walls are even, then it is better to cut each lamella of the lining to a specific location.

Important! If you plan to install the lining on the ceiling using self-tapping screws, be sure to drill holes in advance, otherwise cracks will form from the screws. If you use nails, you must use a hammer so as not to damage the lock and the front part of the board with a hammer.

When your clapboard ceiling is in the process of being installed, you must mark all the places for future lamps and cut holes for the wires. Once the ceiling is ready, cutting holes will be more difficult, as there will be a risk of damage.

The last strip of lining is usually installed using wedges. They must be carefully driven between the wall and last board lining and evenly tamping, drive the board into the lock. If the board is much wider in width than the remaining hole, then you need to cut it along its entire length using a hacksaw or jigsaw. Additionally, there is no need to install the lining with glue, since you will already have a durable and strong structure.

Plastic lining

The principle of installing plastic lining on the ceiling will be the same as when laying wooden slats. The only difference will be that the first board of plastic lining and each subsequent one must be inserted into special guides for PVC panels. The guides have a groove in the shape of the letter “P” in which all the ends of the panels will be hidden.

Now they often make ceiling skirting boards, which already initially have this groove. There are also collapsible design in the shape of the letter “G”, which consists of two parts. The first part is mounted before covering the frame with clapboard, and the second part is simply snapped into place at the end of the ceiling finishing. As a result, the overall ceiling level will be determined by the pre-assembled frame. But when installing the lining, it is necessary to ensure that all the strips fit more tightly to the installed guides and do not diverge from each other at the joints.

Ceiling plinth

After the work on finishing the ceilings with clapboard is completed, you need to secure a corner or corner around the perimeter of your new ceiling. decorative plinth. The plinth will hide all the gaps between the walls and the lining. The baseboard is usually installed liquid nails. There are also special clips.

If there is a desire, the lining can be varnished in several layers, and also with the help of stain it can be given required ceiling shade. And only after that you can enjoy the view of your ceiling, the work on which can be considered completely finished. A lining ceiling is not only decorative decoration rooms, but also more easy option finishing.

Frame construction is becoming more and more popular in our country. Today it is no longer a secret that, in terms of their basic properties, buildings are in no way inferior to their log counterparts and meet all the requirements for a modern home:

• they are warm enough
• durable,
• can be used for quite a long time,
• have good sound insulation,
• not subject to shrinkage.

Sheathing frame house can be made of various materials.

Deciding what to cover frame house, it should be taken into account that the main functions of the cladding are:

• protection of the house frame,
• additional strengthening of the walls of the house,
• creating an attractive appearance of the facade,
• design of the exterior of the building in the intended style.

Properly selected and correctly installed cladding will give the house a finished look, hide cosmetic defects in the walls (if any), and protect against aggressive environmental influences.

There are a lot of cladding options, construction market a variety of shapes and materials are presented. The choice, as a rule, is limited only by the preferences of the developer and his financial capabilities. In this article we will look at all the main types of cladding used in the design of the facades of a frame house.

Wood paneling

Despite the fact that wooden lining is a little outdated, many people prefer it, since in comparison with others, external wooden lining is the most environmentally friendly and vapor-permeable material. In addition, the installation of wooden lining itself does not cause any particular difficulties.

One of the disadvantages of wooden cladding is its fragility. In order for the lining to retain its aesthetically attractive appearance and to protect it from destruction, it is necessary to coat the wood with impregnation or paint it. Wood paneling needs regular care.

The house is lined with wood-polymer clapboard

Also modern construction industry offers for finishing materials such as moisture-resistant exterior wood-polymer lining. It is more practical, as it is not subject to rotting and does not require as much care as wood.

Finishing with imitation timber

Sheathing a frame house with imitation timber

The outer cladding of the house can be made from other wooden material– imitation timber. This good alternative lining, if you consider the latter to be a somewhat primitive and outdated finishing material.

Block house with cladding on a frame house

A specially treated (hardened) block house is quite durable, as it is not afraid of even sudden temperature changes.

Siding for a frame house

- one of modern materials For outer skin frame house, which is now becoming more and more popular. It consists of separate panels that are attached to each other using latches. Siding is used in the design of facades not only of private houses, but also of office buildings, entertainment centers, etc.

Although the main function is to decorate and protect the facade of the house, it also serves additional element strengthening the frame structure.

The siding fastening is built on the principle of the same sheathing board. Each panel has a snap lock and perforated nail edge.

Siding varies in size: length 2-6 m, width 10-30 cm, thickness up to 1 cm.

The profile of the panels can be made with a single (herringbone) and double fracture (ship plank). This characteristic is purely aesthetic; it does not affect the main functions of the material.

For the manufacture of siding are used various materials: ceramics, steel, wood, aluminum, etc. Appearance siding - pretty neat. If we add to this indicators such as strength and durability (the coating does not change its original form up to 10 years), then the popularity that this material enjoys in modern construction becomes clear.

Regardless of what material was used in manufacturing, on the outside of the panel

Attaching siding to sheathing

applied polymer coating or paint that protect them from corrosion.

Siding is extremely simple to maintain: it is easy to clean and does not require the application of any protective compounds (paints, impregnations, etc.). It is also absolutely safe and environmentally friendly.

The siding is attached to (wood or metal), during facing works You can also insulate the building.

Other materials for house exterior cladding

Also in building cladding, frame houses, materials such as:

Each of the above methods is used quite actively in construction today. Exterior cladding of a house is an issue that is decided individually. It all depends on your goals and objectives that you set for yourself, and it’s also a matter of taste.

The method of creating durable skins for railway cars by connecting boards using a tongue-and-groove lock was copied by builders. Covering the walls with clapboard turned out to be practical.

The board looks beautiful, there are no through cracks when the wood dries and there is no warping. Installation is simple and accessible to all craftsmen who want to do facade siding and insulation with their own hands.

Types of lining and purpose

Restore the old dacha and bathhouse, give them a new look decorative look, make it unique and warm apartment, to update a frame house, wood allows. My nephew stubbornly followed me, performing the duties of a helper. He learned how to clap the outside of houses with clapboards with his own hands and tried to lay the finishing material correctly. While we were working, we discussed the lining and its ability to give the building a decorative look.

Wall lining is made from various materials:

• Tree.
• A metal sheet.
• OSB board.

Plastic and metal are used outside, in production premises, warehouses, insulation is laid under them. The lathing is made from metal profiles, there may be other options. Pressed wood boards used for painting. The finishing technology is simple, you can do it yourself. Starting profiles, outer and inner corners, and linings are selected for the lining sheets of the same color.

Kirill was interested in which lining was the most popular and varied. The tree has always been and remains the main thing building material. Natural wood is used for the panel. As always, Kirill presented my stories laconically in tables. So he did and wooden clapboard.

Wood species:	Moisture resistance level:	Application area:
Pine:	low	recreation room, living room, facade, veranda, attic.
Spruce:	low	balcony, terrace, attic, loggia.
Linden:	high	bathhouse, steam room.
Alder:	high	sauna, steam room, kitchen, office, living room, children's room, bedroom, bath, toilet, corridor, gazebo.
Cedar:	average	interior, facade, attic.
Larch:	high	steam room, bathhouse, sauna, bedroom, kitchen.
Oak:	high	kitchen, bath, office, living room, hallway, corridor, gazebo.

You can cover the façade with clapboard and interior walls, make partitions. The direction of laying the plank can be vertical or horizontal. The lining differs in cross-sectional shape:

• Standard.
• Eurolining.
• American.
• Block house.
• Softline.
• Landhouse.

Their main difference is that they have reverse side cutouts for ventilation, chamfer shapes. The block house has an oval top that imitates a log Vacation home. A universal lock allows you to combine them in one cladding different types finishing board.

Do-it-yourself wall decoration with clapboard (video)

Facade cladding with clapboard

We arrived at the address. There was before us old dacha, which had to be insulated, made beautiful facade, save walls from destruction by wind and rain. The walls must be covered with clapboard that was already lying inside. With the help of my nephew, I quickly marked the main horizontal lines along the base and measured the unevenness of the walls vertically.

We marked the beams at 40 cm intervals in order to cover the house with clapboard on the outside. The concrete plinth was decorated with stone-like siding. The lathing was made of metal profiles. Natural materials They combine perfectly with each other, imitation stone base and wooden walls.

Kirill was interested in how to cover walls with clapboard if they are uneven and wall material porous, swollen and warped. We cleared the logs of dirt. Soaked protective compounds. While the façade was drying, the planks and beams for finishing were prepared and the vapor barrier was attached. Cladding a house with clapboard is done according to strictly defined instructions. Step by step order installation looks like this.

1. A starting U-shaped profile was installed along the horizon line.
2. We leveled it and secured the beams under the frame in the corners. The lower end was brought into profile.
3. We pulled the cords in the middle and at the top so that the frame was in the same plane.
4. The remaining beams were installed along the marked vertical lines and cords. The fastening was done through a trim beam, placing it along the depressions.
5. After this, the window and door openings were sheathed along the perimeter of the slopes.
6. Insulation was placed in the gap between the sheathing strips.
7. We covered everything with a water barrier.
8. Each wall began to be covered with clapboard from the lower left corner.

First, we positioned the lath at the corner to lay the ends on the same line, making sure to leave a gap for the wood to swell. We attached the first row of lamellas from above, screwing a self-tapping screw into each beam. The rest, taking into account the vertical arrangement of the lamellas, fastened the lining with thin nails, driving them into the lower part of the lock. Next row went with an offset, before nailing, they left a small gap, since the log house could play.

When covering metal and plastic lining a clamper is used. It is inserted into the lock at the bottom of the groove. We made the front wall of the facade with vertical cladding using a clamp. How to cover walls with clapboard with your own hands is shown in the video. The location of the board depends on the wishes of the owner of the house:

• Horizontal.
• Vertical.
• Oblique.
• Herringbone.
• In a checkerboard pattern.

The sketch is sketched in advance, and the beam is attached perpendicular to the direction of the cladding. Platbands, corner elements and decorative designs with carved patterns are done after the lining on the walls is completely installed.

Interior wall decoration

Kirill helped me complete the next order, sewing large room clapboard in the house. The customer wanted to make a living room with a fireplace for relaxation in Provence style. We had to combine the finishes. We leveled the wall with the fireplace using dry plaster and plasterboard. The lathing was made of a metal profile. After sealing the joints, wallpaper was hung at a distance from the fireplace. The hearth was surrounded artificial stone by making thermal insulation between the stone and vinyl wallpaper.

Pine slats with a Softline profile, thanks to the rounded chamfer on top, imitate the laying of overlapping boards. The cladding material has a decorative appearance, especially the Extra grade, which has a pattern without knots. You can look at the clapboard-covered wall endlessly. It can decorate any interior. The design in its diversity is presented in the photo.

Advantages frame construction in the ability to quickly build a house, make it warm and beautiful. It was difficult to cope with the volume of work together with Kirill. We worked as a team of 4 people. The frame was installed earlier; the company that produces ready-made home blocks itself delivered and installed them.

I calculated how much lining we would need to cover the walls outside and inside, taking the size from the frame drawing. Now the lamellas have been cut in advance. The length of each board was 5 cm less than the height. The idea to sheathe the block house vertically with clapboard belonged to my nephew. Original design and practicality were combined in this decision. Textured wall looked decorative and original on the streets. The water flowed down the varnished surfaces without stopping.

Horizontal slats for fastening the lining simultaneously held the mineral wool laid in the space of the frame. To begin the trim, we first nailed the slats horizontally to guide the trim slats vertically. We will screw fasteners into flat bars. Detailed plan actions can be seen in the video. We decided to do the street front façade last.

By this time, a plan should be born in the head of our assistant Kirill decorative design external cladding. The appearance of a private house has great importance. We used fasteners with clamps. They made it possible to fix and guide each board separately, maintaining a gap for expansion. The end bar was installed at the top. An ebb tide was installed below.

Interior decoration of the bath

A bathhouse is usually built from pine logs. For interior decoration of the steam room, wood coniferous species doesn't fit. When it heats up, it releases resin. With a small amount, the aroma of the Christmas tree calms and puts you in the mood for relaxation. The sauna creates an atmosphere strong odor, heavy air. Cover the walls in the steam room better than alder, releasing a medicinal aroma, or birch. Features of bath lining, use wooden nails. The metal has high thermal conductivity and will leave burns on the body upon contact.

Hello, I am interested in the issue of installing wooden lining on a metal profile. Is it possible to fasten the lining with self-tapping screws? Or are there other mounting methods (profile for GP)?

Dmitry, Ukraine.

Hello, Dmitry from Ukraine!

You must have some kind of unusual situation, if the question concerns the installation of lining on a metal profile of the GP type.

It’s clear when a wooden one is mounted on wooden cranial bars, or on a mounting profile (also metal made of galvanized or aluminum) in the form of slats. Which in turn are attached to the wall or ceiling.

A metal profile of the GP type (GP-8, GP-12, etc.) is a sheet whose end resembles a trapezoidal contour with wide flanges and a narrow bottom, a shelf height of 8, 12, etc. millimeters. Or the GP-20 D, which, on the contrary, has small width mushrooms and a large bottom width.

Accordingly, the same GP-8 is used for fencing the facade surfaces of buildings, indoors, and sometimes for the construction of fences. A GP-20 D for roofing.

If you wish to attach wooden clapboard to metal profile, it is clear that it is impossible to do this with nails, since, having pierced the lining, the nail will rest against the metal and not every nail is capable of piercing galvanized steel standard thickness. It will simply bend if it is galvanized finish, and not ordinary steel with a diameter of three millimeters. But, with rare exceptions, they don’t fasten the lining like this.

Theoretically, it is possible to sew the lining onto the GP profile using self-tapping screws, preferably with metal screws, which have a finer knurling (pitch) of thread. Such screws will hold more firmly, unlike wood screws. Self-tapping screws are either black or galvanized with a press washer (which is made integral with the screw, and not separately). Roofing screws should be used with caution, as they can turn the lining with their self-tapping edges.

But this is a labor-intensive method; more often, a method is used when a wooden plank or block is first mounted on a metal profile with several screws, and then the lining itself is nailed directly to this plank-block. This will make your life easier, since you won’t have to fasten each panel with screws directly to the metal.

/If the lining will be exposed to moisture, for example, it is a fence on the street, then self-tapping screws are much preferable to nails, which can be torn out when wet boards warp./

Two more points. Don't forget about relative position lining and metal profiles. The lining must be directed perpendicular to the direction of the profile waves. Then you will clearly hit the fasteners on the top of the profile waves, and not just anywhere. /If you first attach the wooden planks-bars, which were discussed above, then both the metal profile and the lining will be located in the same direction./

In addition, it is always very desirable to have a layer of film between metal and wood to waterproof one from the other. This can be glassine, moisture, thermal protective film and all films for similar purposes.

Do not forget that the sharp ends of the screws will stick out from the other side of the metal profile. It's one thing if it doesn't affect anything. Another thing is that if it is visible from the outside of the building, this disgrace will have to be covered.

And lastly, do not forget that you need to balance your efforts when tightening screws. So that they are tightly and completely wrapped, and that when wrapping it is sometimes necessary to take measures to prevent deflections of the profile sheets from the applied forces.

This is my take on your question.

In the vast majority of cases, finishing a room with clapboard is carried out with preliminary arrangement of the sheathing. This is what it looks like at first glance complex circuit has many advantages, including the ability to compensate for uneven walls and hidden gasket electrical cables. But in order for the end result finishing works I didn’t disappoint you, you need to know how to properly make the sheathing for the lining.

Materials

Today, lathing for wooden lining can be of the following varieties:

• Wooden is the most common type of lathing due to the availability of the material and ease of installation;
• Metal – galvanized steel profiles for sheathing under lining they are used less frequently due to their high cost and more complex installation;
• Plastic - lathing made of polymer profiles is used much less frequently and, as a rule, for finishing non-residential premises.

In this article we will consider only the first two options due to their greater prevalence. In addition, the arrangement of plastic sheathing is practically no different from its metal counterpart.

Work order

How to make the sheathing for the lining directly depends on the event you choose.

Wooden sheathing. A frame of this type is assembled from timber 2.5-5 cm thick. This variation is determined by the characteristics of the cladding itself. For example, larch lining, popular due to its resistance to moisture and temperature fluctuations, is quite dense and heavy, and therefore requires a more massive frame. The arrangement of the frame begins with the installation of beams around the perimeter of the wall being finished. In this case it is necessary to use building level so that all the slats lie in the same plane. If necessary, the position of the beam is adjusted using wedges driven between it and the wall.

• if the lining is laid parallel to the floor, then the sheathing must be vertical and vice versa;
• sometimes a mesh sheathing made of intersecting beams is also used, but it is used if it is planned to install insulation (for example, mineral wool).

All intermediate elements must lie in the same plane with the perimeter, because leveling the wall is the task of the sheathing. To do this, use a fishing line stretched between the outer beams, and also check the sheathing using a level. The sheathing elements are fastened to the walls using anchors or dowels (for brick or concrete), as well as screws or nails (for logs). When arranging the frame, make sure that the lining is provided with sufficient support density - this will prevent it from sagging.

Metal sheathing. In fact, the installation of such a frame generally repeats the installation of its wooden counterpart. Intermediate elements and edging also require careful level control using relevant tools. This lathing is created using galvanized steel profiles, which are attached to the wall with dowels and reinforced with U-shaped brackets and lintels.

Obviously, such work will require a slightly different set of tools, in particular, including a hacksaw.

Knowing how to install sheathing under the lining, you can achieve required quality finishing coating. The main rule in this is to remember to constantly monitor the position of the frame elements relative to each other.