Necessity inspection hole in the garage is obvious, since in cases of oil changes, minor repairs to the bottom of the body or a routine inspection, you have to set aside several hours to travel to a service station and pay for expensive service.

The pit for technical inspection of a car can also be used as a cellar or vegetable storage. For this purpose, niches and shelves are constructed inside it.

Condition quality use inspection pit as a technical structure and a place for storing products is compliance with all construction standards and the availability reliable waterproofing floor and walls.

Even this simple design requires careful planning of actions. An important point is to determine the quality of the soil and the level groundwater. The most suitable foundation for such structures is clay soil. Its peculiarity is that it does not allow moisture to pass through, which means it can become a kind of waterproofing layer.

At large cluster groundwater and its high level location, the inspection pit is additionally equipped with a drainage system to remove excess moisture, as well as submersible pumps so that the room can be quickly drained.

The staircase will provide a convenient and safe descent

Step-by-step guide to making a viewing hole

You can install the inspection pit yourself. There is nothing complicated about this if you follow.

How to determine size

To calculate the area of ​​the future inspection pit, you need to take into account the thickness of the walls and base. For such calculations, it is necessary to remember the geometry course and resort to a simple formula that determines the area - S = ah, where a is the length, h is the width of the pit. Inspection hole in finished form will have dimensions of 75x185x300 cm. The thickness of the concrete walls and floor, as a rule, is about 10 cm. The calculations will be as follows: 0.85x3 = 2.55 m² - this is the area of ​​the pit for the inspection pit.

Comfortable work in the inspection pit is created by a correctly calculated space, namely, its parameters should be convenient for the build of the person in it. Typically, the width of the pit is built in the range from 70 to 75 cm. This width is enough for you to move freely inside. The same distance between the walls makes the observation structure convenient for entry passenger car.

The pit may be wider if the inspection pit is intended for large vehicles or trucks. The distance between the inner sides of the wheels of such vehicles is much larger (from 80 to 90 cm).

The inspection pit is arranged in such a way that the walls are slightly narrower towards the floor. Schematically, in cross-section, its design resembles an inverted trapezoid. This form provides easy access to tools in niches and free movement.

The length of the inspection hole is selected based on the size of the garage. If the space of the room allows, then a staircase can be provided in the pit. To do this, the length of the pit is increased by 100–120 cm.

Depth of the pit “with reserve” for installing the floor

The height of the pit is at least 170–180 cm. These dimensions are relative, since the depth is made in accordance with the height of the car owner. While in the inspection hole, a person should not touch the bottom of the car with his head.

For additional safety of the car and its owner, the inspection hole is equipped with metal limiters. They usually consist of four pillars fixed at the corners of a niche. They rise 10–15 cm above it. Sometimes for technical inspection, not four pillars, but two metal corners are used. They are fastened against each other along the edges of the length of the pit.

The depth should be 25–30 cm greater than the owner’s height. With such a distance from the base to the body, the arms will not get tired quickly, as this makes it possible for them to be in a bent position.

Materials and tools

Most often, concrete, wood, metal or brick are used for manufacturing.

To calculate the required amount of concrete, you must use a formula that determines the volume. To do this, you need to multiply the length, width and height of the wall. Similar calculations are carried out for the floor.

If brick is used in the construction of the pit, then, knowing its parameters, it is easy to calculate the required amount of this material in pieces. The dimensions of the red brick are 250x120x60 mm.

When building a viewing hole, you cannot do without the following tools:

• shovel and bayonet shovel;
• buckets for excavated earth and concrete mixture;
• trowels;
• welding machine;
• hacksaws.

The following materials are also required:

• bricks;
• cement, sand, crushed stone;
• M200 concrete for the base;
• boards with a section of 400x50 mm;
• reinforcing bars;
• metal corner 50 mm wide;
• waterproofing material.

Instructions for making an inspection pit from bricks, boards, concrete and iron

All work must be done in a strict sequence of steps:

Features of installation of partitions depend on the material used.

Concrete inspection pit

Before pouring the mixture, it is necessary to make formwork. The best way to do this is to use OSB boards. This material does not allow the poured mixture to pass through and does not deform over time. The plates are fastened together using boards and screws so that the distance between them is at least 15 cm.

To maintain the shape of a wooden structure, it must be secured with spacers. Gaps in the joints of the slabs should be absent or minimal. A reinforcing mesh should be installed inside the finished formwork.

There is an option for pouring concrete with one-sided formwork. To do this, it is necessary to cover the walls of the pit with waterproofing material. Next, OSB boards are installed along the inner perimeter of the pit. Between them and the waterproofing is placed metal grid. Concrete is poured inside this structure.

After the concrete has hardened, a monolithic structure is obtained.

Brick inspection pit

A waterproofing sheet is placed in the finished pit. It should completely cover the floor and walls. The canvas must be laid with an overlap. To prevent the edges of the material from lifting up, they are pressed down with boards. A half-brick masonry is made on top of the waterproofing. When the wall reaches a height of 135 cm, you can make niches and then continue laying to the top edge of the pit. It is recommended to install a metal frame from a corner on the last row, and it should be welded in such a way that one shelf on each side is parallel to the floor. Thick boards will be laid on it to cover the pit. Next, they pour the concrete floor in the garage.

Inspection pit made of metal sheets (caisson)

This design resembles a large box. During its manufacture, the sheets must be joined by continuous welding. Ready design must be carefully treated with anti-corrosion coatings. The box should be equipped with fasteners. They are welded metal corners that rest 100–150 cm into the ground. They are attached to the body on four sides. They will hold the box in place. If this is not done, the entire structure will simply float when the groundwater level rises.

The staircase is made of the same material

Inspection pit made of wooden planks

Wood without proper treatment quickly rots. Therefore, the material must be impregnated with special antifungal substances and additionally waterproofed. It is better to take thick boards for walls. The material is installed horizontally. Spacers are secured along the edges of the narrow sides of the inspection hole.

For reliability, the bottom of the pit is made of concrete

Waterproofing device

This process is carried out both before the construction of the structure (external insulation) and after its construction (internal insulation).

If the garage is located in an area with a low groundwater level, then many owners are in no hurry to isolate the inspection pit from moisture. However, the hydrological situation of any area changes every year, so it is recommended to take care of insulation at the construction stage. For this purpose, special films or membranes are used, for example, butyl rubber, aquaizol. They need to be laid in a pit. The edges of the material should be laid with an overlap of 10–15 cm. To obtain a sealed seam at the overlap, use double-sided tape.

When installing a film or membrane, it is important not to damage its integrity. Otherwise, moisture from the soil will enter the hole.

The laid waterproofing layer is melted using blowtorch. As a result, the film straightens, fitting more tightly to the walls and bottom of the inspection pit.

The overlap of the material will prevent moisture from seeping into the pit

Do-it-yourself internal waterproofing of an inspection pit in a garage involves treating the surface of the finished inspection structure with liquid substances, which, when dry, form a dense water-repellent layer. The composition for treating swimming pools has proven itself well. It is applied with a thick, wide brush, and when it hardens, the substance forms a waterproof material resembling rubber. For greater reliability, more than two layers should be applied.

Insulating material can be applied using a spray gun

There is another way of internal insulation from moisture - this is the use of special cement-based primers, which tend to be deeply absorbed into the applied material. This effect is achieved thanks to the polymer particles that are in the mixture. They block capillaries that allow moisture to penetrate through the base material.

How to close a finished inspection hole

A covered inspection hole will not only protect the car from accidental failure, but will also serve as an additional waterproofing layer. In the absence of a cover, evaporated moisture settles on the lower parts of the car body, thereby creating favorable conditions for the formation of metal corrosion. To avoid such problems, the inspection hole is covered. For this purpose, sheets of metal or boards are used.

Wood is a relatively inexpensive and lightweight material. If necessary, the boards are easy to replace. They are selected from hard woods, such as oak and larch. Before use, the boards are coated with antifungal impregnations and antiseptic substances. Place them in openings metal corners, fixed at the top of the inspection hole. The thickness of each board must be more than 40 mm.

The most suitable option for this purpose are boards

Using metal is less convenient, since this material is heavy, expensive, and not resistant to corrosion. During use, its surface bends.

Video: DIY inspection hole in the garage

Step-by-step guide to building an insulated vegetable pit

The construction of a vegetable pit has its own characteristics.

Drawing

For a vegetable pit, both the presence of waterproofing and depth are important.

The place for storing vegetables must be below the freezing point. Otherwise, the point of storing food is lost, since it will be spoiled by low temperatures.

The freezing point depends on the region where the garage is located, for example, Vin the northern regions the ground freezes up to 150 cm. Taking this fact into account, you should dig a pit with a depth of at least 190 cm. From 10 to 15 cm must be allocated for the drainage layer under the base, another 10 cm is required to install the ceiling. 170–175 cm remains for placing shelves, racks and niches for vegetables and lighting. The depth also depends on the height of the owner.

Option with optimal dimensions for this structure

The optimal width of the pit for vegetables is 150 cm. This size allows you to optimally place shelves and racks, while a person will not be constrained in movement inside the pit. To select the length, you need to follow the rule - the pit should not reach closer than 50 cm to the walls of the garage.

Required materials and tools

To make a vegetable pit in the garage you will need the following materials:

• waterproofing sheet;
• reinforcing bars;
• sand;
• gravel;
• boards for formwork;
• metal corners;
• wire;
• bricks, metal sheets, boards or concrete M 250.

When building this structure, you cannot do without the following tools:

• bayonet and shovel;
• concrete mixers;
• containers for concrete mixture and water;
• blowtorch;
• double-sided tape;
• screwdriver.

Calculations of materials for the construction of a vegetable pit are similar to the inspection pit.

Manufacturing instructions

Having prepared all the necessary tools and materials, you can begin building a vegetable pit:

Waterproofing device

On the issue of isolation inner surface Cellars should be treated especially carefully from moisture. This is important, since the slightest hole in the waterproofing will become a source of dampness and cause spoilage of vegetables.

You can proceed to this stage only if the concrete is completely dry. You will need a waterproofing sheet or aquaizol. This material must be used to cover the walls and floor of the vegetable pit. The canvas must be laid with an overlap of at least 15 cm. The joints are secured using a blowtorch or double-sided tape. All actions with the lamp should be carried out very carefully so as not to damage the canvas, otherwise moisture will get inside the vegetable pit. The same materials cover the outer part of the ceiling of the pit.

Make an observation room in the garage or vegetable pit It’s not at all difficult to do it yourself. It is enough to listen to the recommendations of specialists and follow step-by-step instructions. If desired, these two rooms can be combined.

Hello friends!
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STROYPORTAL

The presence of an inspection hole in the garage provides the opportunity to carry out independent repairs of your own car. It can be done with minimal knowledge in the field of construction and the availability detailed instructions. Using a step-by-step master class, it will not be difficult to carefully and efficiently prepare and independently build a pit, regardless of the size and layout of the garage.

🔹 Determining the optimal size and shape of the inspection hole

The finished inspection pit should be both safe and convenient to use. Therefore, before starting work, it is recommended to study geological survey data on the condition of the soil and the location of groundwater under the garage. This will allow you to determine the optimal depth of the hole. If the groundwater is quite deep, then the recommended height from the floor to the “ceiling” may be about 2 m or less (owner’s height + 20-30 cm). The dimensions can be found in the drawing.

An inspection hole is made in the garage with your own hands after drawing up a project plan for the facility. Its width is determined according to the wheelbase of the car: it should be smaller, ensuring the possibility of safe entry of the car. The length should be at least 1 meter longer than the length of the car: this will allow you to work comfortably in the pit.

The installation of an inspection pit allows the presence of small niches. They can be used to store parts and conveniently arrange tools. They should not be made too deep. It is recommended to determine the dimensions of the niches according to the available quantity of auto tools and spare parts.

🔹 Laying out walls and niches in the inspection hole

After digging a pit with predetermined dimensions, you should begin strengthening the walls, protecting them and then laying bricks. The use of brick is optimal due to the ease of working with it and ease of purchase. You can find out how to build a viewing hole in a garage from the most affordable building materials in the following instructions:

1. First, you need to make the floor of the inspection hole in the garage: level the bottom of the pit, lay down roofing material (with an overlap of about 0.5 m on the walls for each of them). Concreting is carried out with the M-200 brand, the thickness of the floor should be about 10 cm. The size of the length and width of the floor should include the sum of the thickness of the two walls, the length/width of the pit itself and an increase of 10 cm. After pouring, leave the concrete to harden for 4 days.

2. The construction of the walls begins with the laying of 4 rows and subsequent waterproofing of the inspection pit from the outside using bitumen mastic. This will prevent the destruction of the walls due to exposure to moisture from the earth cover adjacent to the brick. After laying out the walls, you need to fill in the remaining gap from the ground to the brick.

3. The final stage of work will be the installation of a metal frame around the entrance to the pit. It should protrude slightly above the floor level of the garage box.

The frames of the niches should also be made of metal corners. This will prevent the bricks from subsiding or breaking.

🔹 Features of the ventilation device and choice of stairs

High-quality ventilation in the inspection pit of the garage will prevent the appearance of mold and the gradual destruction of the walls. It can be made exclusively exhaust or supply and exhaust. In the first case, when laying out the last rows of bricks, it is necessary to install a pipe that will allow air to be removed from the pit through the garage box upwards (it will approach the garage ventilation pipe or be discharged directly to the street). In the second case it is set additional pipe, which is diverted outwards. Its end should be located at a distance of 15 cm from the floor.

Make comfortable staircase for the inspection hole it can be made of wood or metal corners. For a small block, a repositionable ladder will be much more convenient. In the attached photos you can also see examples of pits in which the steps were laid out of brick or concreted.

🔹 Summing up lighting

In the process of laying niches, you need to connect a 36V wire in an insulating rubber hose. This will allow you to connect the light in the pit and conveniently illuminate the car during repairs. When performing these stages of work, it is advisable to invite a qualified electrician who will help to correctly determine optimal location wires and guarantee its protection, ensure its correct connection to the power supply.

A diagnostic pit is always a welcome attribute of a garage. It allows you to conveniently inspect the underside of the car. A handy car enthusiast can use it to independently replace oil or a torn cuff. This is where you should start arranging your garage. After spending a certain amount, a pit can be built using hired labor. The article tells you how to do this work yourself.

What to build a viewing hole from

An inspection pit in a garage is usually constructed of brick or monolithic reinforced concrete. Both options have their advantages and disadvantages. Brickwork is less labor-intensive, but not as durable and requires additional grouting of external masonry joints before applying waterproofing.

Reinforced concrete walls are stronger and more durable. Disadvantages include increased manufacturing complexity. To pour the concrete solution, it is necessary to construct a formwork, inside of which reinforcement is knitted. A large amount of solution is required. You can make both brick and concrete walls with your own hands.

Dimensions and position of the inspection hole

It is more rational to tear off the inspection trench at the same time as laying the foundation of the garage. The width of the ditch is usually 70–80 cm. If you take it less than 70 cm, the trench will be cramped; wider than 80 cm, there is a greater risk of falling into the hole, which often happens. It’s good if there are a few strong guys nearby. The height of the trench is made approximately 180 cm, so that there is about 15 cm of clearance from the head to the bottom of the car. The length must be at least two meters, or better - the length of the car plus 1 meter.

The position of the ditch can be different: in the center of the gate or offset. In this case, the car stands away from the underground with its damp air. To inspect or perform any work, you will have to maneuver to enter the ditch. For more convenient entry, the inspection pit in the garage can have an L-shaped configuration. You can go up and down the stairs without rolling over the car.

Going down into the pit using the ladder is inconvenient and dangerous. The staircase must be stationary, at the same time comfortable and safe. The best option is to manufacture the steps simultaneously with the construction of the enclosing structure. With brick walls, it is advisable to make the steps from brick. When pouring walls made of monolithic reinforced concrete, steps should be cast at the same time. If for some reason they were not made at this stage, then the stairs can be made later with your own hands, when the inspection ditch is being constructed. The staircase is made of wood - with the steps fastened on bowstrings or stringers, as well as metal - with treads made of corrugated iron.

How to illuminate a viewing hole

When arranging a garage box, you should provide lighting for the inspection pit in the garage. According to the rules for lighting installations in repair pits, the use of 220 V incandescent lamps is prohibited. It is allowed to use light sources with lamps of no more than 36 V. A step-down transformer is used to power them. A good option are fluorescent lamps in a sealed housing. If a 24V carrier is used, the cable must be at least four meters long for safety reasons.

Underground ventilation

In the repair trench, due to temperature differences, high humidity and condensation forms and settles on the bottom of the car. To avoid this unpleasant phenomenon, the inspection pit in the garage must have good ventilation. The exhaust duct is made of asbestos-cement or plastic sewer pipe embedded in the crushed stone preparation of the floor. This pipe must be connected by a transition elbow to a vertical exhaust riser. The hoods from under the ceiling of the garage box and trench must be independent. If you combine them into one - ventilation efficiency technical underground will decrease sharply.

Pit contours

Before marking a place in the garage for a future trench, you need to make a drawing of its cross section. The clear size of the trench should be taken as a basis. For example, the width will be 70 cm. To this value you need to add twice the wall thickness. If the latter is 20 cm, it will be: 70 + (2 × 20) = 110 cm. Add another margin - 5 cm on each side. Ultimately, the width of the trench at the bottom will be: 110 + (2 × 5) = 120 cm. In order to facilitate the subsequent application of coating waterproofing, the walls of the trench should be made inclined. To do this, it is enough to increase the width of the trench on the garage floor by 60 cm (30 per side). That is, at the top the width of the ditch will be 180 cm. Trenches for the foundation are dug using the same principle.

Bucket or shovel

If the inspection hole in the garage is made at the same time as the foundation is being poured, it makes sense to resort to the services of an excavator. All work will be completed in half a day. The costs will be of the same order as if you hire diggers. Sometimes it happens that during the season you still won’t find them. Well, what if the idea came to build a technical trench when the garage was already built? There is only one way out - to dig a pit with your own hands. To not do extra work, some amount of excavated soil should be stored near the construction site, since the land will be needed for backfill sinuses

The base of the trench should be protected from penetrating moisture by waterproofing. A 10-centimeter footing of concrete is first poured onto the compacted bottom of the pit. For preparation, a solution of grade M 150 is sufficient. The width of the preparatory layer is made flush with the outer surface of the future walls of the trench. To insulate the sole, any type of rolled insulating material is used - roofing felt, Bikrost, Aquaizol, polymer membranes. The canvas should be cut to overlap the walls.

A concrete floor is poured on top of the insulating layer. The brand used is stronger - M 200. A thickness of 7–8 cm is sufficient, but it is better to reinforce the poured surface with a 150 × 150 road mesh with a wire thickness of 4 (3) mm.

Rules for wall construction

To paraphrase Henry Ford, we can say - the design of the trench walls can be anything, provided that it is rigid and durable. To prevent the walls from bulging and cracking in the near future, you should know how not to do them:

• lay brick walls in one spoon (120 mm thick);
• make brickwork without reinforcement;
• use silicate products for masonry;
• flood concrete mixture directly into the ground (from the outside of the ditch);
• pour concrete without reinforcement;
• use rubble concrete.

Combined wall

Below is one of the possible options building a building envelope with your own hands. The outer walls of the pit are dug inclined, with a margin of width, to ensure future access for waterproofing work. Lay out 4–5 rows of half-brick brickwork throughout inner contour future building. This partition will serve as internal formwork. The outer one is installed, retreating 130 mm from the folded wall immediately to the entire height of the trench, using old boards, sheets of plywood, chipboard, OSB and other similar materials. They support it with spacers and jibs, after which they fill it concrete mortar with the top edge of the masonry.

Lay a reinforcing masonry mesh 250 mm wide with a cell size of 50 × 50 and a wire thickness of 4 or 5 mm. Lay out the next section and install the reinforcement again. For better adhesion to concrete, the outer surface of the brickwork is made “into a wasteland”. The rigidity of the structure will be provided by closed belts made of reinforcement bars with a diameter of 10 mm, laid at the bottom and top of the fence. In order to subsequently equip the lighting of the inspection pit in the garage, niches are provided for installing lamps. Waterproofing, if provided for by the project, is carried out after removing the external formwork.

Sightseeing ditch and groundwater

Unfortunately, it is not always possible to make a viewing ditch in the garage. If groundwater (GW) is located under the garage at a depth of less than two meters, it is not worth starting construction. Life shows that in this case no amount of waterproofing of walls will help. When the hot water is below 2.5 meters, a trench can be built provided that high-quality waterproofing of the outer walls of the inspection ditch is carried out. It can be done with your own hands from several layers of adhesive material: roofing felt, TechnoNIKOL, Stekloizol, Gidrostekloizol and others. Cover the surfaces with molten bitumen. There are penetrating materials: Hydrotex, Aquatron-6, Penetron. They are convenient because they are applied to wet concrete and reduce waiting time. good clay castle oily crumpled clay serves.

Global warming

To prevent the inspection pit in the garage from becoming covered with frost in winter, it can be insulated. To do this, the external walls on which waterproofing is applied must be covered with insulation boards - polystyrene foam 5 cm thick. If such insulation is laid in 2 layers under the blind area around the perimeter of the entire garage, the floor in the garage and the trench will be even warmer.

Trench in full roll

To avoid accidentally falling into a hole, you need to make a protective deck over it. The simplest design is thick transverse boards laid inside a edging of corners, installed using embedded elements or secured with anchor bolts. Woodworking waste - slabs laid with the convex side down - are well suited for this purpose. The inspection hole in the garage, covered by them, when viewed from below, resembles a front-line dugout.

Finally

The construction of an inspection trench is reminiscent of pouring a foundation and goes through the same stages:

• marking;
• excavation;
• making soles;
• walling;
• waterproofing;
• insulation.

Having completed the construction of a trench made of reinforced concrete or brick, it is arranged. The inside of the pit can be plastered or tiled. Such an “underground”, built with your own hands, will allow you to drive a car with full confidence for its technical condition. After all, by connecting the lighting of the inspection pit in the garage, you can regularly assess the condition of the chassis of your car.

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TO any motorist knows how necessary it is sometimes inspection hole in the garage! It happens that there is a nonsense breakdown, it’s a piece of cake to fix, but try, you’ll get there! Or changing the oil - five minutes of work, but you have to drag yourself to the service station and pay an amount that is completely incommensurate with the work!

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Perhaps it’s worth shedding a little sweat, working a few weekends and getting rid of such difficulties forever! Find out how to make a viewing hole here.

Let's start work. Marking the inspection hole

As for everyone, even the most simple structures, we begin the construction of our pit with markings, that is, with determining the outlines and dimensions of the future pit. This is necessary, especially since we will be constructing a pit in something that has already been built, or even in operation. Which, you see, complicates our task, if only because of the cramped working conditions.

We will mark the pit based on the fact that the soil forming the walls of the pit will have a certain slope, while the dimensions of the inspection hole must be maintained within limits that make the work convenient.

This is on the one hand. On the other hand, when parking, the driver should not break out in cold sweat for fear that the car will fail. To ensure against slipping, we will take certain steps, but more on that later.

Based on all the mentioned requirements, we determine the width of the pit “cleanly” (that is, according to the width of the working space) to be 70 cm. This is enough for comfortable work, and even for crumbs “ Daewoo Matiz"(128 cm track) there will be room for maneuver of about 20 centimeters (between the pit and the wheel). And for Zhiguli cars, with their track of 132 cm, the width can be made even larger. Five to ten centimeters, but that’s not bad either.

We determine the length based on personal concepts about ease of work, as well as the size of the garage, but making it less than two meters is hardly justified.

On the floor of the garage we draw (or mark with pegs) a rectangle of our pit, then we add the thickness of the walls on all four sides and, guided by the stability of the soil, we give an approximate margin for the slope of the earthen walls. For dense loams this value is approximately 20-30 cm.

We determine the depth from the requirements of ergonomics, and in relation specifically to our loved one. It is clear that bending over or standing on tiptoes will not work much. Therefore, we calculate our hole in such a way that there is a distance of 25-30 cm from the top of the head to the bottom of the car.

With a ground clearance of about 16 cm (Zhiguli) and a worker’s height of 180 cm, the depth (again, “in the purity”) will be about 1.70 -1.80 m. Here it is better to dig a little than not to dig under your feet if necessary You can always substitute a bench, or make a raised floor at the desired height. All this is clearly shown in Fig. 1.

Do-it-yourself excavation work for an inspection hole

Now we have to imagine ourselves as a mole for a while. After all, you will need to remove about 9 cubic meters of soil, a lot, especially if you dig by hand, and the soil is strong. But let us take comfort in the fact that this is the most labor-intensive part of the work (in extreme cases, diggers can be hired).

Part of the soil must be left, stored next to the garage or inside it. This earth will be useful for filling the sinuses after the walls of our structure are completed. We take out the rest of the land. When calculating the equipment necessary for removal, it is necessary to take into account that the volume of loosened earth will be approximately 20-25% greater than the volume of the pit.

We level the earthen floor of the pit, and then compact it with crushed stone. To do this, pour crushed stone in an even layer, with a thickness equal to one and a half times the size of the largest pieces. After this, we “drive” the crushed stone into the ground using a tamper.

An inspection hole in a garage will be much more convenient for work if there are niches in the walls where you can put tools, spare parts, etc. Places for niches must be provided in advance, at the excavation stage.

How to make the walls and floors of an inspection pit with your own hands

For building walls, there are two most common and proven options: block masonry (brick) and monolithic concrete. Both solutions have their advantages and disadvantages. We recommend and will continue to consider monolithic concrete. The cost of materials (especially if you prepare the concrete yourself) will be cheaper. When installing embedded parts, you can perform their high-quality, durable fastening. And the structure as a whole will be more reliable.

We start by making a concrete floor over the soil compacted with crushed stone. Six to seven centimeters of thickness will be more than enough for him. We reinforce the floor with wire mesh with a mesh size of no more than 150x150 mm and a reinforcement thickness of 4-5 mm.

We will prepare the concrete based on following proportions for 1 cubic meter of concrete: 300 kg (0.28 m 3) PC cement, grade 400; 680 kg (0.47 m 3) sand, 1210 kg (0.9 m 3) crushed stone fraction 5-20 mm and 210 liters of water. When mixing by hand, you will have to add more water to make the mixture more mobile, but when using a concrete mixer, it is better to keep the proportions close to those indicated. If you add noticeably more water than normal, we will increase the amount of cement by ten to fifteen kilograms.

The concrete obtained in this way will have a compressive strength grade of 200, which is more than enough for us.

We will make the walls 15 centimeters thick, this is quite enough for our pit. The composition of concrete is slightly different than for the floor: cement 360 kg (0.33 m3), sand 670 kg (0.46 m3), crushed stone 1168 kg (0.86 m3), water is still the same 210 liters.

We will concrete the walls in layers, in tiers thirty to forty centimeters high, compacting them with bayonets, for which a narrow shovel is well suited. It is impossible to compact a thicker mass manually with high quality, unless you can get a deep vibrator somewhere (say, rent it). But even in this case, you should not make the tier more than 50 cm.

As formwork, we use OSB sheets with a thickness of 10-12 mm. Subsequently, OSB will be useful for various garage needs: making shelves or racks, lining gates for insulation, etc.

When constructing the walls of an inspection pit, reinforcement is sometimes neglected, but it is better not to skimp and still carry out this operation. As reinforcement, you can use the same mesh as for the floor. Let's install it at a distance of 3 cm or a little less from the inner plane of the wall. Installed at once over the entire height of the pit, the mesh will get in the way, so we will install it in strips as the concreting progresses.

, we immediately install wall niches. We reinforce the “ceiling” of the niches along the entire length with two or three reinforcing bars (A-III reinforcement with a diameter of 8-10 mm will be enough), so that they do not move, we fasten them together with wire.

In the last tier it would be useful to provide inclined cylindrical “glasses”, where we will subsequently install lamps. The construction of such glasses can be achieved by inserting a plastic sewer pipe cut at an angle into the formwork at an angle (see Fig. 2).

We frame the perimeter of the pit with an embedded part welded from corners with a shelf width of 60-70 mm. The “whiskers” (anchors) of the embedded part are made from reinforcement identical to that which we used when reinforcing the niches. We take the length of the anchor to be 50 cm. If, when installing the part, the anchor does not fit the height of the tier, you can bend it as needed.

The frame performs several tasks: it strengthens the corner of the wall, serves as a “clip” for laying the plank flooring, and finally, as already mentioned, it plays the role of a safety curb that prevents a car wheel from sliding into the hole (see Fig. 2).

To prevent our concrete from collapsing when moving the formwork, we need to let it set for two to three days. After installing the last tier, before backfilling begins, let it sit for at least a week.

We backfill with loam, in layers of 15-20 cm, carefully tamping each layer. Ideally, backfilling can be done with so-called “incompressible” soil (crushed stone, gravel). However, this is expensive, and it is not particularly necessary for a passenger car.

You can use a trick. After we do it, don’t immediately concrete the floor, but fill it with crushed stone to the desired height (if the garage has already had a floor). After a couple of weeks, when driving in and out of the garage, you will compact the soil in the sinus areas with the wheels, after which you can safely concrete the floor, it is guaranteed not to sag.

Additional work on installing an inspection hole in the garage

Making a viewing hole is not enough; you also need to “equip” it. To do this, we install lamps and cover the pit (flooring).

For flooring we use wide boards “forty” (40 mm thick). The boards can be knocked down into several panels, but you should not make them too large and heavy.

If a voltage of 220V is used, the wires must be hidden in a corrugated sleeve (preferably steel). We use semi-sealed, waterproof sockets and switches.

Do-it-yourself waterproofing of an inspection hole

If the groundwater level is high in your area, and there is a danger that the inspection hole will be flooded, high-quality waterproofing is necessary.

We will carry out comprehensive waterproofing and use a barrier made of rolled materials as the first “line of defense”.

We lay a layer of waterproofing film (aquaizol, butyl rubber, etc.) under the concrete floor, so that the edges of the panel extend onto the walls at least 15-20 cm along the entire perimeter. When concreting the walls, we sequentially lay layers of insulation. The installation is carried out with an overlap of at least 15 cm.

If there is a danger of flooding, we make it with greasy clay, compacting it in layers of 15-20 cm.

The final protection measure will be the addition of water-repellent additives to the concrete during its preparation.

In custody

A few words about “labor safety”, more precisely, the protection of your health from this very work.

When carrying out excavation work in unstable soils, be sure to secure the walls of the pit, (ensure their slope along the line natural slope the task is obviously more labor-intensive). The fact that the soils are unstable and prone to collapse will be visible already at the beginning of excavation work.

We carry out fastening by placing boards on the walls and securing them with spacers. It is advisable to do this when the depth of the pit reaches a meter or a little more.

However, if the soil is unstable, then there is a possibility that without strengthening the walls, further work will become extremely difficult, or even stop altogether.

Carrying out work don't neglect your means personal protection (canvas mittens, durable work boots). Working with a hammer drill, jackhammer, grinder don't be lazy to wear safety glasses Otherwise, an inspection hole in the garage can be expensive.

And finally, work with a partner. Even if your partner has red pigtails and is twelve years old! The instrument will give or bring water. You don’t need a lot of strength for this and you will get used to work! And if trouble happens, he can call for help.

Experience in constructing an inspection pit (video)

Ask questions either. , photographs, we will publish them on the website. Order work from specialists! Support the project! Good luck to you, good to your home!

Many people try to do maintenance or minor car repairs themselves. To avoid lying on your back under the car, you need an inspection hole in the garage.

Dimensions of the inspection hole in the garage

This is far from dogma. Everyone does as they see fit. Some find deep holes inconvenient and they make them almost exactly tall, and sometimes even lower - 1.5 meters. If you take into account the car's ground clearance, from the floor of the pit to the bottom of the car it will be about 1.7-1.8 meters. You can do it this way.

Another point about length. Sometimes it is not possible to make a long hole. Then it is made approximately half the length of the car, driving it in front or back, depending on which part of the car needs inspection or repair.

Now about where to place the pit in the garage. Usually it is shifted slightly towards one of the walls, leaving a wide side for installing equipment, storing spare parts, etc. In this case, there must be at least 1 meter from the edge of the pit to the near wall.

That's all the parameters. Just note that we were talking about the final dimensions of the pit. When marking the pit, you will need to add thickness to the walls, and dig deeper to the height of the floor screed (if you make one).

What materials are they made from?

The inspection pit in the garage (its walls) is lined with bricks, heavy building blocks, made from monolithic concrete. If we talk about brick, it is better to use ceramic brick: it is not afraid of humidity. The walls are made of half a brick or brick. The wall thickness, depending on the laying method, is 12 cm or 25 cm. This must be taken into account when marking the pit.

Brick can be used on dry, dense soils. The groundwater level must be low. If the water comes up high, it is better to make the walls of the pit from reinforced concrete.

Building blocks also need to be selected those that are not afraid of high humidity. These are concrete blocks. The rest, if used, must require external waterproofing, and this is not a guarantee that they will not crumble, especially if groundwater is located close.

With a concrete inspection hole, everything is simpler: concrete is not afraid of moisture, it only makes it stronger. To fill the walls, concrete grade M 250 is used; for the floor, M 200 is sufficient. Why is this so? Because during winter heaving the main load falls on the walls. To prevent them from “collapsing”, a margin of safety is required, which is achieved by reinforcement and the use of high-strength concrete. By the way, to avoid heaving of the soil under the garage, you need to make a good blind area so that the water leaves and does not soak into the soil.

The wall thickness when filling the inspection hole with concrete is from 15 cm. Stacks must be reinforced. To do this, use a ready-made mesh with a wire thickness of 5-6 mm and a pitch of 150 mm (if the groundwater is deep) or knit a frame from reinforcement with a diameter of 10-12 mm. The reinforcement installation step is 20 cm. For greater strength, you can make a single rod for the bottom and walls, bending it accordingly.

Waterproofing methods

An inspection pit in a garage can be protected from moisture penetration in two ways: with the help of external waterproofing, which is carried out exclusively during the construction process, and internal, which can be done during operation.

External protection

If in the place where the garage is being built the groundwater is deep, lower than 2.5 meters, and even in the spring or after heavy rains it does not rise higher, you can do without waterproofing. On the other hand, the hydrological situation is constantly changing, and where it was previously dry, water may appear. If the inspection hole in the garage has already been built, external waterproofing cannot be done. All that remains is to use deep penetration impregnations to reduce the hygroscopicity of the walls. Therefore, if possible, do external insulation in any case.

How to prevent moisture from entering the inspection hole in the garage? Most often, waterproofing films or membranes are used (butyl rubber, aquaizol, etc.). They are laid in sheets, covering the pit from one edge to the other, with 10-15 cm released from each side of the pit onto the garage floor. The panels are laid overlapping. They must overlap by at least 15 cm. To obtain a more airtight joint, they are glued together with double-sided tape, possibly in two stripes - at the beginning and end of the “overlap”. The film is well straightened so that it fits tightly to the walls of the pit. During further work, it is important not to damage the membrane.

Internal waterproofing

Internal waterproofing is usually the impregnation of walls with coating waterproofing. If possible, use a composition for swimming pools. It creates a waterproof, dense film that closely resembles rubber. It is blue in color and washes well after hardening. It is better to treat the walls with this composition twice, or more.

Another option is primer deep penetration based on cement. The polymer particles contained in it block the capillaries through which moisture penetrates through the thickness of the material. One such treatment significantly reduces the hygroscopicity of the material. In the case of water in a garage pit, at least twice the treatment is required (and preferably more).

Caisson device

There is another option to escape from the ground - to make a metal caisson. Brewed from sheet metal a box of appropriate dimensions is treated with anti-corrosion compounds, then installed in a pit. If the welds are made airtight, there will be no water, but another problem may arise. If there is a large amount of water, it can squeeze out the caisson. They say that it "pops up".

To avoid such a situation, corners and rods are welded to the sides of the caisson from the outside, which go 1-1.5 meters into the ground. So that the volume of excavation work is not very large (the foundation pit, taking into account these spacers, turns out to be large), you can cheat. Before installing the caisson, drive corners or metal rods into the ground, letting their ends out. You can weld them to the caisson body after installation. The pit will still have to be made larger (you need to cook it from the outside), but its dimensions will still be smaller. The second advantage of this method is that the rods will be driven into dense soil, which means they will hold the caisson better.

Another way to prevent the caisson from “floating up” is to make a hole in the wall at a certain height. If the water rises to its level, it will begin to pour inside. The water can subsequently be pumped out, the main thing is that everything remains in place. An inspection hole in the garage, built according to this principle, stood for more than 20 years - until the metal rusted.

Water collection pit

If the pit has already been built, and coating waterproofing or impregnation did not give the required result, it is necessary to either install a drainage system around the garage or collect water in one place. To do this, a pit is made in the garage inspection pit, at one of its ends. Water accumulates in it, from where it is pumped out. In order for the system to operate in automatic mode, a water presence sensor is installed, which, when triggered, turns on the pump.

Formwork is made under the pit and filled with concrete. Then they waterproof the pit along with waterproofing the entire pit. For reliability, you can also put a metal caisson inside.

Since it is not possible to completely get rid of dampness in this case, a boardwalk is knocked down onto the floor of the pit. To prevent the boards from rotting, they can be soaked in waste. If you don’t like its smell, take a special impregnation for wood that has direct contact with the ground (Senezh Ultra, for example).

Insulation of the inspection pit in the garage

If you spend a lot of time in the garage, then you will most likely have heating. In order to warm up faster, it makes sense to insulate the pit. EPS (extruded polystyrene foam) is best suited for these purposes. It can withstand significant loads, is not afraid of dampness, does not rot, and fungi and bacteria do not multiply on it.

The thickness of the EPS to create a noticeable effect is from 50 mm. Place it between the soil and the wall of the pit. Then from the outside to the inside the pit will look like this:

Expanded polystyrene can also be placed under the screed at the bottom of the inspection hole. A reinforcing mesh is usually laid on top of it, and then concrete is poured.

How to make a viewing hole in the garage

Once you have decided on the dimensions and what material you will make the walls from and how thick they will be, you can begin marking the pit. This can be done using pegs driven around the perimeter. The second option is to stretch a twine/rope between the stakes driven into the corners. According to the markings, we begin to dig a pit. The earth is usually taken out and temporarily stored near the gate.

Made of brick: step-by-step photo report

While excavating, monitor soil moisture. If you have reached the design depth (required + thickness of the floor screed), but there is still no moisture, you can do without waterproofing. Those who do not want to take risks can be advised to immediately lay down the film.

We level the walls. There is no need to achieve ideal geometry, but there should be no noticeable humps or holes. We also level the bottom of the pit and tamp it, compacting the soil well. A hand tamper is usually used. A layer of crushed stone is poured onto the bottom (twice 5 cm each), each layer is also carefully compacted. Next comes a layer of sand. 5 cm is enough. The sand is moistened and compacted to a high density so that the foot does not leave imprints. Next we lay the waterproofing film.

We even it out well, tucking it into the corners. We lay the panels with an overlap of 15 cm, which we glue with double-sided tape. To prevent the edges from rolling, we press with available materials - boards, stones.

We lay a layer of insulation on the bottom, and a reinforcing mesh of wire on it. We fill all this with concrete grade M 200. The layer thickness is at least 5 cm. To make it easier to navigate when laying, we make marks on the film by which you can control the thickness of the layer.

If you use Portland cement M 400, the proportions will be as follows: 1 part cement, 3 parts sand, 5 parts medium and fine crushed stone.

An inspection hole is being built in the garage: the floor is filled with concrete

We wait several days until the concrete gains 50% strength. The exact period depends on the temperature. If it is around +20°C, you will have to wait 5-6 days. If +17°C is already two weeks.

Let's start laying out the walls. It was decided to make it in half a brick. We used used bricks, about 850 pieces were used (pit size 4.2 * 0.8 * 1.7 m). The walls were laid out in a circle up to the level of the elbow.

It was decided to make a niche for the tool at a level of 1.2 meters from the floor. Its height is 3 rows of bricks, the top is covered with a treated board.

To avoid having to lay out a brick niche, a metal liner is inserted. A box is welded to suit the size.

Next, the walls were driven almost level with the garage floor. Part of the walls was replaced with two sections of channels. If necessary, jacks rest on the bottom. A metal corner with a 50 mm shelf, steel thickness 5 mm, is placed on the top row.

The corner is unfolded so that one of its shelves hangs down, the second covers part of the upper surface of the brick. To prevent the wall from collapsing under load, embeds are welded to this corner, which are then connected to the concrete reinforcing belt.

Pouring the floor in the garage - concrete level along the upper edge of the corner

Features of making concrete walls

When casting concrete walls, it is necessary to make formwork. It's easier to make it from sheet material- construction moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of 16 mm, OSB. Shields of the required size are knocked down and reinforced with bars on the outside. They are necessary to prevent plywood or OSB from bending under the pressure of concrete. First, the outer parts of the formwork are installed. If the walls of the pit are smooth, there will be no problems. You simply lean them against them and place them level.

Then the internal formwork panels are installed. There should be a distance of at least 15 cm between them. To prevent the walls from deforming during the pouring process, spacers are placed between them.

It is advisable to fill the filling at one time. The poured portions must be bayoneted or treated with a submersible vibrator for concrete. The formwork is removed after two to three days. Afterwards, you can install a corner with welded embedded rods (strips) and begin pouring the floor.

Reading time ≈ 4 minutes

The presence of an inspection hole in the garage provides the opportunity to carry out independent repairs of your own car. It can be done with minimal knowledge in the field of construction and the availability of detailed instructions. Using a step-by-step master class, it will not be difficult to carefully and efficiently prepare and independently build a pit, regardless of the size and layout of the garage.

Determining the optimal size and shape of the inspection hole

The finished inspection pit should be both safe and convenient to use. Therefore, before starting work, it is recommended to study geological survey data on the condition of the soil and the location of groundwater under the garage. This will allow you to determine the optimal depth of the hole. If the groundwater is quite deep, then the recommended height from the floor to the “ceiling” may be about 2 m or less (owner’s height + 20-30 cm). The dimensions can be found in the drawing.

An inspection hole is made in the garage with your own hands after drawing up a project plan for the facility. Its width is determined according to the wheelbase of the car: it should be smaller, ensuring the possibility of safe entry of the car. The length should be at least 1 meter longer than the length of the car: this will allow you to work comfortably in the pit.

The installation of an inspection pit allows the presence of small niches. They can be used to store parts and conveniently arrange tools. They should not be made too deep. It is recommended to determine the dimensions of the niches according to the available quantity of auto tools and spare parts.

Laying out walls and niches in the inspection pit

After digging a pit with predetermined dimensions, you should begin strengthening the walls, protecting them and then laying bricks. The use of brick is optimal due to the ease of working with it and ease of purchase. You can find out how to build a viewing hole in a garage from the most affordable building materials in the following instructions:

1. First, you need to make the floor of the inspection hole in the garage: level the bottom of the pit, lay down roofing material (with an overlap of about 0.5 m on the walls for each of them). Concreting is carried out with the M-200 brand, the thickness of the floor should be about 10 cm. The size of the length and width of the floor should include the sum of the thickness of the two walls, the length/width of the pit itself and an increase of 10 cm. After pouring, leave the concrete to harden for 4 days.

2. The construction of the walls begins with the laying of 4 rows and subsequent waterproofing of the inspection pit from the outside using bitumen mastic. This will prevent the destruction of the walls due to exposure to moisture from the earth cover adjacent to the brick. After laying out the walls, you need to fill in the remaining gap from the ground to the brick.

3. The final stage of work will be the installation of a metal frame around the entrance to the pit. It should protrude slightly above the floor level of the garage box.

The frames of the niches should also be made of metal corners. This will prevent the bricks from subsiding or breaking.

Features of the ventilation device and the choice of stairs

High-quality ventilation in the inspection pit of the garage will prevent the appearance of mold and the gradual destruction of the walls. It can be made exclusively exhaust or supply and exhaust. In the first case, when laying out the last rows of bricks, it is necessary to install a pipe that will allow air to be removed from the pit through the garage box upwards (it will approach the garage ventilation pipe or be discharged directly to the street). In the second case, an additional pipe is installed, which is diverted outside. Its end should be located at a distance of 15 cm from the floor.

You can make a convenient ladder for the inspection hole from wood and metal corners. For a small block, a repositionable ladder will be much more convenient. In the attached photos you can also see examples of pits in which the steps were laid out of brick or concreted.

Lighting supply

In the process of laying niches, you need to connect a 36V wire in an insulating rubber hose. This will allow you to connect the light in the pit and conveniently illuminate the car during repairs. When performing these stages of work, it is advisable to invite a qualified electrician who will help to correctly determine the optimal location of the wire and ensure its protection, and will ensure its correct connection to the power supply. At independent execution works, you should study the auxiliary video lessons on creating proper lighting in the inspection hole.

Video of building a viewing hole in a garage with your own hands

A properly equipped pit in the garage is an excellent helper for a car enthusiast; it can be used to make minor car repairs, carry out preventive work or diagnostic measures without special costs. It quickly becomes an important part of the building and its main advantage.

In our country, almost every car owner can appreciate the presence of an inspection hole, which is why it is often planned first when building a garage. What is the use of a self-made inspection hole, how to design and build it? And can it be added to an already completed building?

Advantages and disadvantages of having an inspection hole in the garage

At first glance, having a pit in your own garage is a big plus, but there are also nuances that you need to be aware of when arranging it. The advantages of the solution primarily include the ability to inspect the above-mentioned parts of the car without resorting to the help of specialists. It's simple, free and even interesting for many car owners.

Further, repairs and maintenance without the participation of a professional car mechanic can save quite a lot of money. If you calculate over a year how much an oil change and other actions cost in a workshop, the benefits become obvious. And the repair skill itself will be useful more than once.

In addition, if the pit is spacious enough, repair kits and spare parts for the car are often stored in it. This is especially true for a small garage where there is a shortage of free space.

What could be wrong with such a useful corner? The most important danger when building a garage with a pit is nearby groundwater. In general, excess moisture is the enemy of a car, and if the inspection hole is poorly waterproofed, then even in the absence of flooding, water will accumulate on the walls of the structure due to temperature changes during the cold season.

Attention! Any inspection hole can lead to the formation of condensation on the bottom of the car due to temperature differences at different levels of the structure.

However, it is worth noting that an inspection hole will become a disadvantage only if it is made in violation of construction technologies and without taking into account the engineering and soil features of the site.

Construction of an inspection pit

Whether it is carried out when laying out a future garage or in an already finished building, the construction stages are the same. First, the pit is prepared and marked, then it is finished and communications are installed. There is nothing complicated about this, but each step requires competent execution with knowledge of some subtleties.

And first of all, you need to find out the level of groundwater in the developed area. It must be at least 2.5 meters in order for construction to be justified, and it is better to check it yourself, simply by drilling a hole as deep as possible in the ground at the construction site. You can also interview neighbors who already have basements or pits in their garages.

Attention! If the size of the garage allows, then you can make a viewing hole with a side entrance. Thus, its proportions will be L-shaped, which allows the length of the main trench to be shortened and makes descending into it easier and more convenient when the vehicle is standing for inspection.

What should the dimensions be?

The first important step is to mark the width of the inspection hole. It should be comfortable, but not make it difficult to move the car around the garage. The experience of many builders agrees that this is about 70 cm, to which another 5-10 cm can be added.

More difficult question is to determine the length of the structure. It should not be less than two meters, otherwise the whole meaning of the design changes, but increasing it can be very useful when correct use. If stationary steps are made, their length must also be added to the minimum.

However, stretching it over the entire garage is not only financially unprofitable, but also harmful. It’s good if the room is large and the inspection hole is simply located further than where the car stands - this is another way to protect the bottom from condensation.

It is important to remember that the final size of the recess will be smaller than the rough one due to the layers of finishing and laying out the walls. Therefore, at the excavation stage, the thickness of the walls and floor is added to the obtained proportions, and “deepened” in accordance with this.

The depth of the pit should be equal to the height of the user and the clearance for work - this is 15-20 cm to the top of the pit. It is better to make it deeper, because it is quite easy to make wooden flooring. If the mistake leads to the need to constantly bang your head on the bottom of the car, the whole building will lose its meaning.

If an inspection pit is being built for a truck, then its proportions change somewhat. Wheel spacing for large vehicles different models very different, so the size of your own car is taken as a basis. The pit should be 30-40 cm narrower than this figure. If it is smaller, then it will not be possible to reach all the components of the truck.

If the pit is needed for servicing both a passenger car and truck, its width should be average. For example, the width for one car is 80 cm, and for another 120 cm. In this case, the required size of the hole will be one meter, although this will complicate maneuvering in a passenger car.

Main stages of construction

The construction of an inspection pit with your own hands goes through several stages:

• site marking;
• digging a pit;
• laying waterproofing;
• floor arrangement;
• laying out walls.

In order to make the correct markings on the site, you must immediately select a building material for the walls. If a brick is chosen, then the width of the masonry will be approximately 12 cm (different brands of brick have different sizes), and then 24 cm are added to the width and length. If the walls are concreted, then a thickness of 20 cm is taken, that is, it is worth adding to the general parameters add 40 cm.

Digging the pit is done manually, since its proportions are quite small. After excavation work, the walls and floor should be leveled as carefully as possible, this will simplify further actions.

Important! It is necessary to make high-quality waterproofing; you should not skimp on it.

Until now, many people use polyethylene as a waterproof layer, but polymer membranes or bitumen materials are more durable. If the garage is on fairly dry ground, you can use liquid waterproofing, which is applied with a brush and then hardens.

Sufficient for the floor concrete pouring 7-8 cm thick, but the quality of the mixture must be high. Even before laying the waterproofing material, you need to compact the floor with gravel. To do this, a layer of stone of several centimeters is laid out on the ground and driven into it. special device- "tamper".

Then a piece is placed on the floor as reinforcement steel mesh required sizes. Filling is carried out at a fast pace. Since you will need quite a lot of material, it is unlikely that you will be able to make the required amount of mixture in one go. Therefore, work must be carried out quickly so that the concrete hardens in one even layer.

After the floor hardens and becomes suitable for use, the walls are reinforced. To do this, they often use the same mesh, only they lay it out in layers. After reinforcement, the first layer of formwork is built and concrete is poured. It is most convenient to carry out the work in three stages, installing and removing formwork boards at each of them. By the way, their quality can also be excellent, because after work from good wood you can make shelves for the garage.

Important details when arranging an inspection pit

There are a number of nuances that are worth paying attention to as you work. So, even from the moment of digging a pit, it is important to lay several niches in the walls of the pit, which will then become shelves for available tools. It is also a good idea to lay several cylindrical inclined recesses in which lamps can then be placed.

Further, the inspection hole can be insulated. When the temperature outside the garage walls drops to at least -10, working in an insulated structure is much more pleasant. To do this, you can use polystyrene foam boards, which are simply placed on special glue. This reduces the amount of condensation on the walls and bottom of the car.

Attention! Lighting of the inspection pit should be simple, safe and powered from a source with a voltage of 36 V. Laying a network with a voltage of 220 V is dangerous for the life of the car owner. Lamps must have a protection level of UR5 X in accordance with GOST 17677-82E and GOST 14254-80.

The edge of the inspection pit should be trimmed with an iron or wooden corner, not large sizes. This is an additional stiffening rib for the construction, and a stop for the wheels of the car, which will not allow it to fail if it moves carelessly.

The final touch will be the cover for the inspection hole, which is assembled from boards. It protects a person from falling into a pit, and the bottom of a car from moisture, which can condense even with the most careful treatment of the walls and floor of the pit. The lid is often difficult to lift, so below is a simple and original solution construction of a suitable handle.

High-quality car maintenance requires sufficient space for carrying out different operations. To avoid lying on your back, you should equip an inspection hole. To build such a structure, you will need to know the basic principles of constructing such structures. The wiring must be installed before the walls are built. Making an inspection hole with your own hands is pretty quick. The work time depends on the wall construction technology. To better understand the process, it is worth looking at photos of finished inspection pits.

Dimensions of inspection hole

The dimensions of the inspection pit are often chosen for ease of moving and repairing the vehicle. The main parameters that are taken into account are your own height and the size of the car.

The dimensions of the inspection hole are selected based on the following considerations:

• The standard width of the inspection hole is 80 cm. This indicator takes into account the freedom of movement of the car owner along the inspection hole, as well as maneuver for the car’s wheels.
• The length of the inspection hole is affected by the length of the car. 1 m should be added to this indicator. The size of the inspection hole is sufficient for the work to be carried out as comfortably as possible.
• The depth of the inspection hole is calculated based on height. You need to add about 15 cm to this indicator. If you set the depth of the hole according to this recommendation, you don’t have to think about the possibility of hitting your head on various parts of the machine.

The drawing of the inspection pit is quite simple. It indicates the width, depth and length of the structure.

When making an inspection hole, the vehicle's ground clearance should be taken into account. Some motorists find deep holes very inconvenient, so they are made at their own height. The usual depth of the inspection hole, which many motorists rely on, is 1.5 m.

The length of the inspection hole may also not be carried out according to the rules. If there is not enough space, you can make it half the length of the car. If repairs are necessary, you can drive the car backwards or forwards over inspection hole. This solution is more economical and practical.

The inspection hole in the garage is usually located closer to one wall. This is necessary to free up space for equipment and spare parts. The distance from the edge of the inspection hole to the nearest wall should be 1 m or more. When digging a pit, take into account the thickness of the walls and the height of the floor screed. For greater accuracy of work, you should create a drawing of the inspection hole.

Necessary materials

The inspection pit is usually lined with concrete blocks or bricks. Often walls are poured with monolithic concrete. When choosing a brick for building a viewing hole, you should pay attention to ceramic. Such products are not afraid of high humidity. The walls of the inspection pit are built in half a brick. At sufficient quantity material they can be laid in brick. The walls can have a thickness of 12 or 25 cm. Such parameters should be taken into account when marking the pit. To simplify the work, an accurate design drawing should be made.

The walls of the inspection pit are made of brick only when not high level soil waters. Such products go well with dense soils. If the soil water rises quite high, you will need to create concrete walls reinforced with rods.

Building blocks are also selected only if they meet certain characteristics. For example, such products are not afraid of moisture. This applies to concrete blocks. For other products, external type waterproofing should be used. This will ensure their safety in the event of groundwater intrusion.

When constructing a concrete inspection pit, all work is carried out much easier. This material is not afraid of moisture. To create a high-quality solution, M250 concrete should be used. When constructing a floor, M200 is usually used. This can be explained quite simply - during winter heaving, most of the load falls not on the floor, but on the wall structures. A certain margin of safety is required so that they do not deform under load. For this purpose, concrete is reinforced. You can prevent heaving of the soil under the garage by creating a blind area. In this case, the water will go to the side and not be absorbed into the soil under the garage.

Wall structures made of concrete reinforced with steel rods usually have a thickness of 15 cm. For reinforcement, a mesh is used, which has a rod thickness of 6 mm. The pitch between the rods should be 15 cm. The reinforcement frame can be knitted from rods with a diameter of 10 mm. In this case, the pitch between the rods is 20 cm. To make the structure more durable, you can install the same rods both in the walls and in the floor screed. To do this, you will need to bend them in 2 places.

Waterproofing

There are several ways to waterproof an inspection hole in a garage. Each of them has certain advantages. For example, external waterproofing of an inspection pit is created only at the construction stage. The internal one can be mounted after creating a full inspection hole. Before work, it is better to create a full-fledged drawing, which will indicate all the materials from which the structure is made.

Protection of the inspection pit from the outside

If at the site where the garage is being built, the soil waters lie very deep, for example, below 2.5 m, waterproofing the inspection pit may not be necessary. It is important to check the soil water level in the spring. If even during a flood it does not rise above the specified indicator, you don’t have to worry about waterproofing.

However, the geological situation may change. In a dry place, water can easily appear after a few years. If there is already an inspection hole, it should be equipped from the inside. For this purpose, special impregnations are used. They penetrate deeply into the structure of the stone and perfectly protect the inspection hole from water penetration.

A variety of films are used for external waterproofing of inspection pits. The pit is covered with such products from one ridge to another. In this case, it is necessary to release 15 cm on each side. The panels must be laid overlapping. The joints are connected with double-sided tape. The film should adhere well to the walls. To do this, it needs to be straightened. During installation work you need to carefully monitor the integrity of the film.

Internal waterproofing of inspection pit

A special impregnation is used as internal waterproofing of the inspection pit. This type of waterproofing is called coating. The inspection hole in the garage can be coated with a special composition for swimming pools. When using such material, a waterproof film appears on the surface of the walls, which in external parameters and characteristics resembles rubber. It is usually painted blue and is easy to clean once it hardens. When using this composition, treatment should be carried out at least 2 times.

Another option for protecting the inspection pit from water is to use a cement-based primer. It contains polymer particles that can reliably block small channels that allow moisture to pass through. When performing one of these measures, the hygroscopicity of the walls is significantly reduced. If water constantly appears in the pit, the treatment should be carried out 2 times.

Installation of a caisson in an inspection hole

To ensure that the inspection hole in the garage is reliably protected from moisture, you can make a caisson. To do this, a box is welded from metal sheets and installed in a pit. It must be treated with anti-corrosion agents. If the welds are made airtight, water will not penetrate into the pit. If there is too much water, the caisson may “float”.

To eliminate this situation, corners should be welded to the caisson, extending 1.5 m into the ground. In order not to carry out large-scale excavation work, before installing the caisson, you should hammer the corners into the ground and leave their ends outside. They are welded to the caisson after it is placed in the pit. In this case, the pit will have to be made in a large size. The advantage of this solution is that the corners will be driven into denser soil and the caisson will be held better.

There is another way to avoid raising the caisson in the inspection hole under the influence of groundwater. At a certain height it is necessary to make a hole. Through it, water will flow into the caisson as it rises. It is subsequently pumped out. Such an inspection hole can last for more than 20 years until the metal rusts.

Pit for catchment in inspection hole

If there is already a finished hole, water can still penetrate into it. Sometimes it doesn’t help and coating waterproofing. In this case, you will have to build drainage system. It can be located around the entire garage. You can also make a special hole in which excess moisture will collect. A pit is made in the corner of the pit. The accumulated water is subsequently pumped out of the pit with a pump. The system can work automatically. To do this, install a water level sensor in the pit.

Formwork should be made under the pit, and then concrete should be poured into it. After this, it is necessary to waterproof the pit. It is usually carried out together with waterproofing work carried out throughout the inspection pit.

With such waterproofing, it is impossible to completely get rid of dampness, so boards are laid on the floor. They can be protected from rotting using special treatment. You can buy a special impregnation for wood that comes into contact with the ground.

Insulation of inspection pit

If a lot of time is spent in the garage, it usually has a heating system. For faster heating, the inspection pit should be insulated. Extruded polystyrene foam is most suitable for this purpose. This material does an excellent job of insulating the inspection pit and the garage as a whole. It is not susceptible to moisture, bacteria and fungi. In addition, polystyrene foam can withstand significant loads.

To create high-quality insulation, you will need to lay polystyrene foam 5 cm thick. It must be laid between the wall of the pit and the ground. First, waterproofing is laid on the ground, then polystyrene foam, and then the wall is mounted.

Expanded polystyrene can be placed under the screed. A reinforcement mesh is usually laid on top of it. Then the concrete is poured.

Construction of a viewing hole

When all the calculations have been completed, you can begin marking the inspection hole. To do this, stakes are driven into its corners, and a rope is pulled between them. According to the completed markings, it is necessary to begin digging a pit. The soil is usually removed and stored in front of the garage entrance. The width and depth of the inspection hole should be determined before digging the pit.

Brick walls

When digging a pit for an inspection hole, it is necessary to monitor the humidity level. The design depth takes into account the thickness of the floor screed. If it is reached, and water is not yet expected, there is no need to perform waterproofing. However, in order not to take risks, you should immediately cover the inspection hole with waterproofing film.

Then you should level the walls. It is necessary to remove holes and earthen humps. The bottom should also be leveled and compacted. The soil must be well compacted. Crushed stone should be poured on the bottom, and sand (5 cm) on top. The sand must be wetted during compaction. Tamping is carried out to a state of high density of the material. The foot should not be imprinted in it after stepping on it. Then the inspection hole is covered with a waterproofing film.

The material is carefully leveled and tucked into the corners. The panels should be laid with an overlap of 15 cm. They are glued using double-sided tape. To prevent the edges from rolling, they should be pressed using available means.

It is necessary to install insulation at the bottom of the inspection hole, and a reinforcement mesh on top. M200 concrete is poured on top. His minimum thickness should be 5 cm. For easier orientation during installation, special marks are applied to the film. When using M400 cement, the following proportions must be followed:

• 5 parts of crushed stone - it should be small or medium;
• 3 parts sand;
• 1 part cement.

Afterwards, you need to wait several days until the concrete reaches 50% strength. A more accurate date can be determined taking into account the temperature. If the indicator is about +20 degrees, you need to wait about 6 days. If the temperature is +17 degrees, you will have to leave the concrete for 2 weeks.

After the floor has hardened, you can begin constructing the walls of the inspection pit. Many car owners decide to do them in half a brick. You can use the circular styling method up to elbow level. When the masonry of the inspection pit walls reaches a level of 1.2 m, a niche should be made for various tools. Its height is equal to 3 rows of bricks. A treated board is laid on top of the recess.

Then the walls are driven up to the level of the garage floor. Steel corners are placed on top of the walls; it is better to choose 5 mm thick. The corner must be turned so that one of its shelves hangs down, and the second covers the top of the brick. You can prevent wall collapse by welding embedded parts to the corner that are connected to the reinforcement belt.

Concrete walls

To cast high-quality concrete walls of the inspection pit, you will need to build durable formwork. It is usually built from plywood with a moisture-resistant structure. The thickness of the sheet material should be 16 mm. OSB panels can be used. Shields of the required dimensions should be knocked together and strengthened with outside bars. This is necessary so that they do not sag under the action of concrete.

After this, you will need to install internal shields. The thickness of the concrete walls of the inspection pit must be at least 15 cm. To prevent deformation of the formwork panels, they must be strengthened with spacers. Filling should be done at one time. The flooded space must be bayoneted. For better removal of air from the solution, a deep vibrator should be used. The formwork is removed 3 weeks after pouring the solution. Then you can begin installing the floor.

conclusions

The inspection hole in the garage is quite simple. To create a comfortable space under the car, you will need to accurately calculate its depth and width. Before work, a detailed drawing is drawn up. This allows you to quickly and accurately build a hole with your own hands, without making mistakes.

Before erecting walls and floors, care should be taken to ensure proper waterproofing. It will protect the structure from excess moisture. For insulation it is better to use polystyrene foam. It can not only prevent the penetration of cold into the room, but also prevent the development of fungi and bacteria.

Walls can be made from materials such as solid concrete, concrete blocks and brick. In the latter case you will need less costs. When making walls made of solid concrete, you should correctly approach the creation of formwork and the preparation of mortar.

The love of cars is in men's blood. Whatever his financial situation, it is a matter of honor to look under the hood in the evening. You can change oil, spark plugs and other minor repairs yourself, without asking for help. service center. To solve more serious problems, an inspection hole is needed. It will not be difficult to build it; it is only important to organize the process correctly and calculate the dimensions.

An unpleasant moment that can be prevented

Besides obvious advantages, which makes no sense to list, the inspection hole can cause harm to your car. In lowlands, the humidity is excessively high, and if the car is constantly standing over an uncovered pit, this can cause corrosion of the bottom. The problem of high humidity and condensation occurs everywhere, and this does not depend in any way on the size of the inspection hole in the garage.

This problem can be solved with the help of high-quality waterproofing, which must be taken care of during the construction process. Initially, it is necessary to find out the level of groundwater. If it does not exceed a depth of 2.5 meters, then you will have to equip it, which will drain water into a specially designed well. When pouring walls, be sure to add a waterproofing compound to the concrete, which will prevent the formation of condensation. It is also possible to insulate the outside of the walls with a waterproofing membrane, but this must be done at the stage of installing the formwork.

inspection pit drawing
diagram of an inspection pit with niches

How to calculate the size of an inspection hole in a garage

The determining criterion when determining the size of the inspection hole is the car, or rather its dimensions. But what if you change cars often? Shouldn't we redo the pit after each new purchase? Of course not, you just need to calculate right away optimal width. It directly depends on the size of the car’s wheelbase and the size of the owner himself. A width of 70-80 cm is as close as possible to universal meaning. With depth, things are even simpler. Here everything depends on the height of the owner, and he should be able to reach the bottom without any problems. It is also worth paying attention to the comfort of the position, because if you have to stretch out or, conversely, bend down while in a hole, productive work will not work. To make it easier to calculate, add 10-15 cm to your height and you will get the optimal depth. These dimensions of the inspection pit in the garage are basic, but small changes can be made to them.

plan of an inspection pit with niches for tools
pit pit

Construction of an inspection pit

The process of constructing an inspection pit will not take a long time, but will turn out to be very labor-intensive. First of all, this concerns earthworks, that is, digging a pit. It is calculated taking into account the depth of the pit itself, the thickness of the floor, walls and waterproofing. You will have to add another 50 cm to the width, which will go to the walls.

waterproofing, formwork and reinforcement
vibrating concrete pouring

Now that the pit is dug, let's proceed to the floor. It is necessary to pour a 10 cm layer of crushed stone onto the bottom and compact it well. Pour half as much sand on top of it and compact it as well. This “pie” needs to be covered with a waterproofing film, on which the reinforcing frame will then be placed. Everything is ready, you can safely pour the concrete. At the stage of its preparation, you need to add a special product that will give the dried floor waterproofing properties. The solution is poured into the formwork in a layer of 10 cm, leveled, and left until completely dry. As a rule, under favorable weather conditions this takes about 3 days.

After the floor was completely dry, it was the turn of the walls. For them, formwork is also constructed, laid waterproofing membrane and a reinforcing frame is installed, which will add strength to the walls. At this stage, you can adjust the thickness of the walls to the finished dimensions of the inspection pit in the garage.

It is carried out along the dried walls finishing. They can be plastered, finished with tiles or gypsum fiber boards. A frame welded from metal corners is installed on the edges of the pit and secured. Subsequently, it will serve as a support for boards or other panels covering the pit. They can be covered with film, which will serve as additional protection against condensation.