After the introduction of a new standard for the thermal protection of buildings, insulation has become relevant even for those houses that were previously considered “safe”. Owners of older buildings don't have to do anything, but they must be prepared to pay rising energy bills. And designs for new houses will not be approved if they do not meet the requirements of SNiP 02/23/2003. There are several technologies that make it possible to ensure standard indicators for buildings made of any materials. The main thing is to choose the right insulation for the exterior walls of a house in each case.

The house must be kept warm Source prolesa.com.ua

Why external insulation and not internal

The most understandable argument for a non-specialist sounds very convincing, although this is a secondary factor - insulation from the inside “takes away” the useful volume of residential and office premises.

Builders are guided by the standard according to which insulation must be external (SP 23-101-2004). Insulation from the inside is not directly prohibited, but it can only be carried out in exceptional cases. For example, when work on the outside cannot be carried out due to the design features or the facade “belongs” to a house that is classified as an architectural monument.

Video description

The result of proper internal insulation of a house in the video:

Internal insulation of walls is allowed provided that a durable and continuous vapor-tight layer is created on the side of the room. But this is not easy to do, and if warm air with water vapor gets into the insulation or onto the surface of a cold wall, then the appearance of condensation is inevitable. And this is due to the “dew point”, which will move either inside the layer of thermal insulation material or to the border between it and the wall.

Even such protection from the inside will not provide a 100% guarantee against the wall getting wet - water vapor will find its way into the film joints and fastening points Source domvpavlino.ru

That is, when deciding how to properly insulate a house, in the vast majority of cases, the answer will be based on clear regulatory recommendations- outside.

Popular thermal insulation materials

From a large list of thermal insulation materials, we can highlight several of the most popular ones and those that are used if the budget allows or for other reasons. Traditionally, the popularity of materials is determined by a combination of good thermal insulation characteristics and relatively low cost.

• Expanded polystyrene

Better known as "foam". To be precise, in addition to slabs, this material is also used in granular form as bulk thermal insulation.

Its thermal conductivity varies with density, but on average it is one of the lowest in its class. Thermal insulation properties are provided by a cellular structure filled with air. The popularity is due to accessibility, ease of installation, good performance compressive strength, low water absorption. That is, it is cheap, quite durable (as part of the structure) and is not afraid of water.

Polystyrene foam is considered low-flammable, and those marked PSB-S are self-extinguishing (does not support combustion). But during a fire, it emits toxic gases, and this is one of the main reasons why it cannot be used for insulation from the inside. Its second drawback is low vapor permeability, which imposes restrictions on the use of “breathable” materials when insulating walls.

Insulating the outside of a house with polystyrene foam Source makemone.ru

• Extruded polystyrene foam

It differs from polystyrene foam by a fundamentally different manufacturing technology, although the raw material is the same polystyrene granules. In some respects it is superior to its “relative”. It has the same percentage of water absorption (no more than 2%), on average, thermal conductivity is 20-30% lower (Table D.1 SP 23-101-2004), vapor permeability is several times lower and compressive strength is higher. Thanks to this set of qualities, it is best material when insulating the foundation and basement, that is, the walls of the basement and the “zero” floor. The disadvantages of EPS are the same as those of polystyrene foam, and it costs more.

EPPS is usually made “colored” Source footing.ru

• Stone, also known as basalt, cotton wool

This is a subspecies mineral wool, the raw materials of which are stone rocks (most often basalt). A completely different type of thermal insulation material, the low thermal conductivity of which is ensured due to its fibrous structure and low density. It is inferior to foam plastic and EPPS in terms of thermal conductivity (on average 1.5 times higher), but unlike them, it does not burn or smolder (flammability class NG). Refers to “breathable” materials - according to the new standard this sounds like low “breathing resistance”.

Mineral wool mats for wall insulation must be “hard” Source konveyt.ru

But there are other materials for insulating a house outside, which, although used less frequently, have their own advantages.

Thermal insulation materials - new products on the market

Additionally, you can always consider new options - they are a little more expensive, but often somewhat more effective than traditional ones.

• Foamed polyurethane

Common polymer material " household use" Also well known as foam rubber for furniture (in the form of “soft” mats) or as polyurethane foam for sealing cracks. When insulating, it is also used in the form of slabs or sprayed insulation.

Polyurethane foam slabs have low tear-off holding properties, so they are not used in “wet façade” systems.

But it's common thermal insulation material for the production of sandwich panels. The same technology underlies the production of thermal panels for facade cladding. This panel is thermal insulation board with a decorative layer already applied at the factory (clinker tiles or stone chips). Two types of insulation: polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam. In the first case, the thermal panel is two-layer, in the second – three-layer (OSB or moisture-resistant plywood is used as the supporting base). Two mounting options: on dowels/anchors (open method) or on your own hidden fastening system.

Three-layer thermal panel Source zafasad.ru

Sprayed polyurethane foam is in demand if it is necessary to create a seamless layer of thermal insulation on complex surfaces. Until recently, the only technology for applying such a layer was using professional installations, working with a two-component composition (mixing occurs during spraying).

Spraying polyurethane foam onto the base of a house Source nauka-i-religia.ru

Now in Russia for household use The production of one-component polyurethane foam has been launched, which is produced in an aerosol can with a capacity of 1 liter. As manufacturers assure (there are two competing companies), insulating 1 m2 with your own hands is much cheaper than concluding an agreement with specialized enterprises that use professional equipment. And this option for insulating a house from the outside is quite attractive if literally 2-3 cm of the thermal insulation layer is missing.

Insulation using sprayed polyurethane foam "Teplis" Source m.2gis.kz

• Ecowool

A relatively new thermal insulation material. The technology for insulating enclosing surfaces is based on cellulose fiber material, which is applied to the walls using a special installation. There are two options for insulation: filling the plane between the wall and the cladding, spraying with an adhesive binder onto the wall with installed sheathing (and subsequent installation of facade panels).

From traditional materials we can mention glass wool (a subtype of mineral wool), but due to its fragility and the formation of tiny “dust” with sharp edges during installation, it has been replaced by stone wool, which is safe both during installation and during operation.

The better way to insulate a house from the outside - standards for the number of layers

If you follow regulatory documents, there are two options for how to insulate a house from the outside based on the number of structural and thermal insulation layers: two-layer and three-layer. Moreover, in the second case, external paneling or plaster is not considered an independent layer, although they thermal insulation properties are taken into account. In three-layer walls, the outer (third) layer is construction material.

Brick cladding with insulation Source pinterest.ru

In addition to this classification, there is also a division based on the presence of a ventilated and non-ventilated layer.

• brickwork, reinforced concrete (with flexible connections), expanded clay concrete - all types of solutions;
• wooden houses - enclosing structures with two-layer, three-layer walls and a ventilated air gap;
• frame houses with thin-sheet cladding - three-layer walls with thermal insulation in the middle, as well as with a ventilated and non-ventilated air gap;
• blocks of cellular concrete– double-layer walls with brick cladding, as well as with a ventilated or non-ventilated layer.

In practice, for insulating low-rise buildings, such a variety of solutions comes down to the choice between a “wet” or a curtain wall. Although, it is those recommended by the standard that are considered as thermal insulation materials - mineral wool or expanded polystyrene (EPS as an alternative).

But each case has its own preferences.

Video description

The video shows how to choose how to insulate a house from the outside:

The better way to insulate a house from the outside, depending on the wall material

For insulating a brick house, there are no restrictions when choosing technology. Different variants can be considered only depending on the chosen method of finishing the facade:

• Facing brick. This is a classic three-layer wall construction with flexible ties. Even when using polystyrene foam, a ventilated air layer is provided to ventilate water vapor and prevent the wall materials from getting wet.
• Wet facade. You can use mineral wool and polystyrene foam. The first option is preferable - ceramic bricks have higher vapor permeability than foam plastic. And according to clause 8.5 of SP 23-101-2004, the arrangement of layers should facilitate the weathering of water vapor to prevent moisture accumulation.

Scheme of a “wet facade” Source deskgram.net

• Ventilated facade. With cladding with wall panels or large-format porcelain tiles on the sheathing. The insulation is traditional for all suspended facades - mineral wool.

Scheme of a ventilated facade Source sk-optimus.com.ua

Wooden houses (logs or beams) are insulated exclusively with mineral wool using curtain façade technology.

For them, you can find examples of using polystyrene foam and plaster using the “wet facade” method. In this case, a ventilated gap is created between the wall and the foam boards using spacer sheathing. Although in this case the main advantage of the “wet facade” is lost - simplicity of design and installation.

How to calculate the thickness of insulation

If you look through SP23-101-2004 or a similar but later set of rules SP 50.13330.2012, you can see that calculating the thickness of the insulation is not so easy.

Each building is “individual”. When developing a project and approving it, such thermal calculations are made by specialists. And here a whole range of parameters are taken into account - the characteristics of the region (temperatures, duration of the heating season, average number of sunny days), type and area of ​​glazing of the house, heat capacity flooring, roof insulation and basement. Even the quantity metal bonds between the wall and the cladding matters.

But if the owner of a previously built house decides to insulate it (and the new standards introduced in 2003 are much stricter than the old ones), then he will have to choose between three parameters of the “standard thickness” of insulation - 50, 100 and 150 mm. And here the accuracy of calculations is not needed. There is a diagram that shows the equivalent thickness dimensions different materials(in average form), the wall of which will meet the new requirements for thermal protection.

Only a house made of aerated concrete blocks with a thickness of 45 cm does not need insulation Source legkovmeste.ru

And then it’s simple. They take the thickness of a wall made of a certain material and see how much is missing from the standard. And then they calculate in proportion what thickness of the insulation layer of the outside wall of the house should be added. Taking into account that a wet facade also has a layer of plaster, and a ventilated one has an air gap, plus interior decoration façade walls, you can be sure of sufficient thermal protection.

And the question of insulation of the roof, floors and choice good windows decided separately.

It’s even easier to use one of the many online calculators. The figure here, of course, is approximate, but rounded up to the nearest standard insulation thickness, it will give the required result.

How to properly install insulation on a facade

Before installation, the façade must be prepared: cleaned of old decoration, remove dirt and dust, dismantle hanging elements engineering systems, remove ebbs and visors (you will still have to replace them with wider ones), remove signs, plates and façade lamps. Then the surface of the wall must be strengthened - cracks and chips must be repaired, crumbling areas must be cleaned, and a deep penetration primer must be applied.

Application of primer composition Source rmnt.ru

For securely fastening polystyrene foam or rigid mineral wool mats in the system wet facade The surface of the wall should be as smooth as the unevenness can be smoothed out with an adhesive solution. If the height difference is up to 5 mm, the solution is applied over the entire insulation slab, with unevenness from 5 to 20 mm - along the perimeter and in the form of “cakes” on 40% of the slab surface.

The first row of slabs is mounted with emphasis on starting bar, which also sets horizontal level. The second and subsequent rows are placed with a vertical seam shift (at least 200 mm), leveling the surface of the insulation in the area of ​​the joints so that the height difference is no more than 3 mm. When insulating the walls around the openings, make sure that the seams of the slabs do not intersect in their corners. Each slab is additionally secured with umbrella dowels at the rate of 5 pcs. per 1 m2.

Before applying plaster, the surface of the slabs is reinforced with fiberglass, fixed in the middle of the layer adhesive solution total thickness 5-6 mm.

The density of polystyrene foam is chosen to be 25-35 kg/m3.

Video description

Visually about mineral wool insulation in the video:

Mineral wool mats of Russian brands for the “wet facade” system must correspond to index 175, imported ones must be marked “facade” and have a density above 125 kg/m3.

Attention. In the “wet facade” system, the insulation is installed in only one (!) layer. Vertical surface made of two layers of “soft” slabs with a load in the form of plaster behaves unpredictably, especially with changes in temperature and humidity conditions. Do not be fooled by arguments that the second layer of slabs overlaps the seams of the first and eliminates “cold bridges”.

The ventilated facade uses rigid mineral wool mats with a density of 80 kg/m3. If the surface of the mats is not laminated, then after attaching them to the sheathing, the surface is covered with either fiberglass or a vapor-permeable membrane.

The spacing of the lathing is chosen 2-3 cm less than the width of the mats. In addition to fastening to the sheathing, the insulation is additionally fixed to the wall with umbrella dowels.

The size of the air gap between the insulation and the cladding should be in the range of 60-150 mm.

Important. The size of 40 mm is standardized for non-ventilated air spaces.

To ventilate the layer in the cladding, inlet openings are installed in the base area and outlet openings are installed under the roof eaves. The total area of ​​the holes must be at least 75 cm2 per 20 m2 of wall.

Ventilation grilles in the wall Source tproekt.com

As a result, is it worth insulating?

Insulating your home is a profitable investment even in the short term. The investment will quickly pay for itself by reducing heating and air conditioning costs.

Our website also presents companies specializing in facade and finishing materials, which are presented at the exhibition of Low-Rise Country houses.

Many people suffer from the cold in their apartments and are thinking about how to insulate the walls. This matter can be done at any time, and if there is a major overhaul, then, as they say, God himself commanded. By insulating houses from the inside, we can protect them from frost in winter, as well as from excessive humidity when it starts to rain. The main criterion for such work is still considered thermal protection. Today there are materials and technologies that will help you do the work yourself. If the insulation inside the room is carried out efficiently, then heating costs become minimal.

The walls that suffer the most are in corner apartments of high-rise buildings and in private houses. Having decided to take care of your apartment or house, you need to get acquainted with the peculiarities of the work and find out the technological nuances. We’ll talk about how to insulate walls from the inside in a private house.

We insulate houses from the inside

To create comfortable living conditions (preservation of heat, getting rid of damp, moldy surfaces), the walls of houses can be insulated both from the inside and outside, from the facade. It is considered the most effective internal insulation. Especially:

When taking care of insulating the house from the inside, you need to choose the right materials, which are vapor-tight. The work must comply with special technology, otherwise, instead of insulating a private house or apartment in a high-rise building, you will become the culprit of its destruction: mold will appear due to condensation. The fact is that dew point may form- an increase in humidity in the room when the heating season begins leads to the appearance of droplets on the walls in places where joints and seams are not insulated.

How to choose the right insulation material for walls?

If you have to insulate walls from the inside, you will have to take care of the choice of material. There are special requirements for thermal insulation materials:

• expanded polystyrene and mineral wool;
• polyurethane foam and ecowool;
• penoplex.

It is these building materials that are used if you need to do internal insulation.

If you decide to insulate a private house from the inside with your own hands, try to learn more about the installation features. In addition to printed articles and Internet materials, you can use video tutorials that show in detail all the steps for installing insulation, both frame and frameless methods. Interested home owners can clearly track all stages of the work.

In the case where there are no special construction skills, it is best to carry out the work contact specialized companies, otherwise you will have to redo everything, and this will be additional material costs. Specialists carry out insulation work efficiently, quickly, following technology.

Application of mineral wool

You can insulate the walls with mineral wool. It is used most often, although ideal option you can’t name such material. The point is that after some time mineral wool begins to absorb moisture, so it is impossible to avoid the appearance of damp places. When working with this material, you should do everything according to the instructions, not forgetting to process the joints. In addition, the walls themselves and the insulation must first be impregnated with antifungal compounds. Only in this way can the operation of the insulation be extended for ten years.

Before insulation with mineral wool, install it on the wall metal carcass. Plates are installed in the resulting cells, which must be compacted. The surface must be covered with plasterboard. When choosing mineral wool, do not forget that the usable area of ​​the apartment will decrease.

We insulate the walls from the inside using polystyrene foam

Expanded polystyrene has recently gained popularity as insulation. This material has:

• low specific gravity;
• minimal thickness, so installation does not require the installation of a frame;
• room humidity does not affect the quality of the material;
• polystyrene foam is attached construction glue. Can also be used dowels or liquid nails. But first, the joint areas are treated with polyurethane foam.

Penoplex is an environmentally friendly material for insulation

Penoplex, another name for expanded polystyrene foam, is an excellent material because it:

Polystyrene foam as insulation

The inside of the house can be lined with foam plastic. Its installation does not require the installation of a frame. Material produced in the form of panels, which are simply glued directly to the wall. As an adhesive composition, you can use the one that is usually used to glue ceramic tiles.

Glue is applied to the foam, then, pressing slightly, a mesh is installed metal fittings. The overlap must be at least 15 centimeters. This layer is then plastered or painted, then wallpaper is pasted. Can be used when finishing ceramic or tiles.

The choice of insulation depends on the wall material

Are you tired of freezing in winter and have you decided to start insulating your apartment or private house? Please note that the choice of insulation will directly depend on what material the walls themselves are made of.

1. If the wall is made of brick, then polystyrene foam, expanded polystyrene and mineral wool will work more effectively in this case.
2. Walls based on foam blocks are usually insulated using polystyrene foam, penoplex or expanded polystyrene.
3. In wooden houses, it is effective to use penoplex and expanded polystyrene when insulating internal walls.
4. If the house is made of concrete, then each owner has the right to choose the material that he likes best, since there are no restrictions when choosing insulation.
5. For insulation timber houses it is better to use ecowool, although you will have to install not only a vapor barrier, but also a sheathing.

Carry out insulation inside the house, following special rules. High-quality insulation can be done with your own hands if you listen to the advice of experts. First of all, this concerns the walls. When preparing them, you need to perform the following types of work:

• Using a hair dryer, spotlights, infrared lamps, air heaters, thoroughly dry the walls.
• Check the integrity of the insulating materials; if there are damages, they should be repaired. Such work is very important to protect the surface from dampness and steam.
• All seams that form between the floor slabs, as well as the heat-insulating layer, must be processed.

When preparing the surface, a number of specific preparatory works are performed, which require a special careful approach:

How much does it cost to insulate a house inside?

If you decide to create comfortable conditions in your private home yourself, it will cost much less than the services of specialized companies. On average, you will have to pay 450 rubles or more per square meter of insulation. The cost of a square will depend on what insulation material you used and what additional work had to be done before installing the insulation.

It should be noted that internal work on insulating a house is not always justified. It is better, of course, to do this outside the building. But if its implementation is impossible for various reasons, then the standards fully allow for insulation of walls in the interior of houses.

Of course, for the sake of comfort and warmth will have to sacrifice square meters , since insulation materials “eat up” part of the area due to their volume. But, as they say, it is better to live in a slightly smaller house than in a cold and damp one.

Perhaps modern technologies will soon make it possible to make houses warm, saving space and at the same time eliminating condensation. For now, it is the technologies and materials listed above that make it possible to solve existing problems with heat conservation in a private home.

Winter can bring pleasant emotions. But only if you can enter the house and enjoy its warmth. To do this without extra heating costs, you need to take care of the thermal protection of your home in advance.

Peculiarities

Insulating walls is significantly different from working to retain heat in the floor or ceiling. The use of bulk materials is much less common. It is necessary to take measures to ensure that the bulk substance does not cake under its own weight. The thickness of the structure is critical. It should not take up much space in the room. The heaviness of the insulating block is no less significant: if it is very massive, the foundation will have to be strengthened, which will lead to its rise in price. All this means is that The correct choice of insulation blocks and systems is of decisive importance.

Materials

More and more people are now using mineral wool "Isover". It guarantees an optimal microclimate in the living space, regardless of the heat or cold outside. Its main technological characteristics are:

• thermal conductivity is 0.041 W x m x K;
• effective damping of noise coming from outside;
• the average density is 13 kg per 1 cubic meter. m;
• absolute protection from fire;

• reliable protection from condensation (provided that a gap of at least 20 mm is left for moisture removal);
• the minimum time of stable operation is 50 years;
• perfect sanitary and environmental safety.

If the wall cannot bear a significant load, insulating it with Izover is quite practical and convenient. This solution allows us to guarantee complete protection from the cold, no matter what construction material is used. If the air temperature outside reaches extreme positive or negative values, thermal insulation will retain its basic qualities. But “Izover” should not be taken as universal solution. Like any mineral wool, it can have a detrimental effect on the human and animal body.

This brand supplies material with different characteristics. This:

• lightweight structures;
• general construction soft slabs and mats;
• mineral insulation under a pitched roof.

Installation of insulation for slag block house strictly required. When it comes to cold housing, there is little joy. A considerable number of craftsmen and amateur builders try to insulate cinder block structures with foam plastic. It transmits little heat and is quite mechanically strong, although it has a low density. What is very useful is that there is no need to spend money and time on installing a waterproofing membrane.

Polyfoam has good antiseptic properties. It is not difficult to purchase it for people with any income level. But there is a serious limitation: the risk of fire. Initially, you will have to apply a primer to ensure the strongest possible adhesion to the base.

A prerequisite for success will be the installation of fiberglass reinforcing mesh. This mesh comes in two types: for internal and external reinforcement. It is not advisable to confuse these types.

Insulation also has its own characteristics aerated concrete walls . Cellular concrete blocks contain many gas bubbles (hence the name). They must be insulated in any case, regardless of production in an autoclave or without it. Invented for aerated concrete whole line insulation materials, but the most popular varieties are polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam. The second material is considered more reliable and modern. But its application is impossible without the help of a team with special equipment. Polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam are less durable, but home owners themselves can use them.

Aerated concrete can be insulated from frost with simple mineral wool. But this should be done only as a last resort. The ability of cotton wool to concentrate water vapor will negatively affect the properties of the blocks. Such houses will also have to be insulated from the inside. For this purpose, experts recommend using plaster mixtures. Moreover, it is the internal work on insulation that precedes the external work, and not vice versa.

In many cases, builders use stone wool. This material has truly earned its reputation. It is obtained from basalt, metamorphic rocks, and marl. Usually construction companies purchase the basalt option for the most critical projects. But it is equally important to take into account the level of acidity. The less pronounced the alkalinity of the cotton insulation, the harder it is and the longer it will work.

To increase water resistance, phenol-formaldehyde resins and other additives are added to stone wool. Therefore, it is important to find out which exact chemical composition mixtures so as not to encounter sudden toxic effects. Although the stone wool itself will not catch fire even when heated to 1000 degrees, its binding substances will evaporate already at 200. Therefore, in the event of a fire or other emergency, all the insulation will have to be removed and replaced with a new one.

The advantage of such thermal insulation is also the fact that all excess moisture leaves the rooms or work areas without being retained in the insulation. Concerning negative points, here you need to remember about the abundant dust and the inevitably high price of the products. When purchasing material, you should pay attention to its storage conditions. You cannot buy cotton wool outside the factory container and without shrink film. It is recommended to check the packaging to ensure that there is no leakage. It is unacceptable to store material outside without a canopy or awning. When stored in cardboard boxes technological requirements prohibit placing them where there is even slight dampness.

Scheme

Insulating the concrete wall of a house from the inside is practiced in cases where it is impossible to carry out external work. Concrete creates many difficulties and problems in winter period, and in apartments it is almost always insulated inside. The services of industrial climbers or lifting equipment are very expensive. In addition, the housing inspectorate almost never considers a project for selective thermal protection of a single apartment. Doing work without approval means facing a wave of fines or deprivation of housing for arbitrariness.

The easiest way to keep warm is concrete house using plaster. But it does not always give a decent effect. In the coldest regions or even the corner part of the house, the microclimate will not return to normal. In any case, the first actions are exposure of the structural surface and antiseptic treatment. Then you'll have to wait completely dry substrates. Insulating plaster is done in three stages:

• splash;
• primer layer;
• covering (outer decorative covering).

Original thin layer is a solution of 1 share of cement and 4 (5) shares of well-sifted sand. This solution must have a liquid consistency in order to adhere to the surface. The layout is done with a rigid spatula. They make an effort, trying to penetrate the solution deeper into the pores of the base. The total thickness of the first layer can reach 1 cm, it must be done evenly over the entire surface.

The primer layer is created using standard cement plasters corresponding category. But it is better at this stage to make a choice in favor of a material with reduced thermal conductivity. The primer is applied in a layer of 5 to 6 cm, and it is created in three steps. Each subsequent treatment is carried out only after drying of the already applied material. Next you need to make a facial covering (no thicker than 0.5 cm).

Coating solution is a finishing putty diluted with water to a liquid state. The work is carried out by rubbing this solution into the primer. When the treated surface dries, it is further improved by troweling and sanding. If this solution is not effective enough, you will have to line the concrete wall with foam plastic.

As in the previous case, you cannot do without antiseptics.

The dried, disinfected wall is covered with finishing liquid putty with a layer of 0.5-1 cm to level the surface. Then, in any case, apply waterproofing with a layer of 3 to 5 mm. The foam is glued with a specialized powder composition, which is stirred in water 90-120 minutes before starting work, turning it into a thick, homogeneous lump. You need to coat the entire wall with glue evenly; the sheets themselves are enough only in the center. Gluing is done with slight pressure, the joints should be tight.

After gluing the sheets, the seams must be covered with putty or polyurethane foam. The final hardening of the glue, depending on its formulation and operating conditions, occurs 48-96 hours after application. You can strengthen the attachment to the wall using plastic dowels. The final plastering of the foam is carried out over a polymer mesh. It should be embedded in glue and covered with finishing plaster (necessarily rubbed and sanded).

It is attractive from a technical point of view to insulate concrete with fibrous materials, including mineral wool. Under it you will have to create a frame made of wood impregnated with antiseptic preparations. The slats should be fastened vertically (from the top to the bottom points of the wall), the distance between the lines is approximately 0.6 m. The material must be attached to the slats with anchors, drilling 3 holes in each wooden part.

To do this, take a drill with a diameter of 0.8 cm. The slats themselves are held in place with concrete screws. The gaps between the slats are supposed to be laid with roofing felt. Above it is a cotton layer. The insulation is laid in 2 or 3 levels, with a vapor-insulating foil film placed above it. It is pressed against the slats using construction staples. The insulating block is closed on top for decorative purposes:

• drywall;
• particle board;
• plywood.

In private construction, brick construction of houses is very popular. They are even more popular than concrete ones, since they are not much inferior in strength, retain heat better and are more aesthetically pleasing. But also thermal qualities the best variety bricks are not enough to protect against Russian frosts. To prevent condensation from dripping from the inside of the wall and freezing drafts from walking around the house, you can use:

• expanded clay;
• mineral wool;
• penoplex;
• Styrofoam;

• expanded polystyrene;
• insulating plaster;
• EPPS;
• cork;
• ecological cotton wool.

External insulation with polyurethane foam is carried out on a frame made of wood or metal. The same material is also suitable for internal thermal protection. If you are just planning to build a house, you can include internal brickwork in the project. This step is no worse than special slabs or rolls. First of all, they put up an external wall, raise it to 150 cm and successively insert steel rods into the seams of the fifth or sixth rows. Immediately after this, tiles or thermal protection sheets are installed, and the internal brick row begins to be laid.

When thermal insulation is achieved due to expanded clay, the external internal walls are raised to 150 cm, which are separated by a gap of about 0.15 m. From this point, construction is carried out to the upper intended line. If you plan to insulate the house from the outside, this work is first carried out with the foundation and plinth. The outer wall is thoroughly cleaned; only under this condition will finishing be an effective measure. Extruded polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam is placed on the outside, initially leveling the walls with plaster and priming them.

The insulation is placed using glue or steel dowels. Installation is carried out from the bottom up in a checkerboard pattern to increase the stability of the structure. If it is planned to create a ventilated façade, they begin by attaching a vapor barrier block, on top of which a frame is placed. A cotton insulation is placed in this frame, covered with an additional water barrier. All three insulating substances are attached with dowels.

Typical external finishing in this case - siding.

Internal insulation with polystyrene foam or EPS on brick is not very practical. These materials are toxic and burn easily. Before insulation begins, antiseptic primers are applied; they effectively suppress fungal aggression. Waterproofing and protection from precipitation with overhangs for sand-lime brick must be more thorough and thoughtful than for ordinary ceramic block. It is recommended to use concrete with the addition of expanded clay for masonry. Its thermal conductivity will immediately decrease by 50%.

Laying expanded clay inside the walls will be most effective when choosing a large fraction (this will reduce the load on the foundation).

When it is impossible to insulate a brick wall in any way from the outside or in the middle, materials with the least permeability to water vapor are used for internal insulation. Most often it is EPS or penofol with an outer shell of foil. It is just important not to confuse which side these materials should be mounted inside the room. If you have to use a material that allows a lot of vapor to pass through, it will need to be covered with a film impermeable to water vapor or a thin shell of foam foam.

In case of the slightest difficulty, it is better to entrust the insulation of a brick wall to professionals. There are also subtleties in insulating the walls of a frame dwelling. Glassine is widely used for waterproofing such buildings; insulation is used only with foil to reduce steam loss. Typical insulation solutions are polyurethane, polystyrene foam and mineral wool.

You will definitely have to make a crate from edged boards humidity not more than 15%. The recommended cross-section of the sheathing fragments is 2.5x15 cm.

Insulating blocks are placed in the gaps between frame racks. Sprayed insulation is underestimated by home owners completely in vain. They give excellent results in frame buildings, and can be applied without the help of a professional team. The hardened polyurethane needs to be modified (remove excess fragments and sand the surface). Thanks to the elimination of joints and seams, heat loss will be minimal.

In old houses, the inside walls often have many cavities or one large cavity. As a result, the owners and residents suffer from a freezing room, and nothing can be done about it. Cavities can also occur due to errors when laying insulation or due to its natural degradation over time. Such troubles can be eliminated by ensuring the introduction of thermal insulation through holes made in the external wall.

Since such manipulations are responsible and, if mistakes are made, can even lead to the destruction of the house as a whole, you should definitely contact professionals.

In regions where there is a lot of precipitation, it is unacceptable to use mineral wool and basalt insulation, including to close voids and cavities. Expanded clay cannot be used either. Where Based on operating experience, polyurethane foam performed better in such harsh conditions. A standard plan will help you find out whether there is a cavity in the walls of a cold room that can be “blown out” with liquid or spray material. In the absence of a plan, if it is inaccurate or there are obvious errors, technological holes are made in the seams and the wall behind them is checked by moving the wire. More gentle options are calling professionals with a thermal imager or scanning structures yourself with this device.

But the cold also reaches residents of apartment buildings, in load-bearing walls which have weak seams. For the most part, the seam elements of panel structures are provided with an additional insulating layer on the outside, since doing this from the inside is ineffective. In any case, before starting work, you should carefully study technical regulations and building regulations. If it is not possible to install thermal insulation from the outside, it internal option must be covered with an inextricable, long-lasting vapor barrier.

Most often, specialists hire for the following purposes:

• foamed polyethylene "Vilatherm";
• polyurethane polyurethane foam "Macroflex" (or similar polyurethane foam);
• sealants that do not produce precipitation (for example, Sazilast 24).

In houses that have been in use for a long time, the sequence of work consists of several stages:

• opening the old seam;
• dismantling existing protection;
• rust corrections in case of urgent need;
• removing dust and dirt;
• filling the space with foam;

• attaching its heat-insulating tubes to the fresh layer;
• adding foam to areas where it initially went uneven;
• cutting off hardened foam;
• waterproofing.

Cross insulation suitable for frame buildings. Heat-saving mats are applied so that the seams do not coincide with each other. This prevents the occurrence of wind-driven cracks. Frost bridges are guaranteed to be blocked ( wooden parts). The fight against them will be successful if you add another 5 cm of insulation at problem points on the outside above the 15 cm thermal protection.

Placing 5x5 cm bars horizontally outside the frame will be the first step. The distance between each pair of bars should be 10 mm less than the width of the insulating block. The block itself is placed strictly at bay. Immediately after installation of all insulating parts, they must be protected from moisture. It will cover the material from the wind and prevent it from falling out.

It is strictly forbidden to tamp the thermal protection and force the material inside, even for corners. After all, the main properties of mineral wool are given by the air contained in it. By violating the integrity of the insulator, it will not be possible to keep it inside. Therefore, the house will be colder than the residents expect. The basement floor is insulated almost according to the described scheme.

How to choose?

Now you need to find out which insulation material is better. There is no universal answer to this question. But some points are useful to keep in mind. Conducting a full thermal calculation without special knowledge it is not possible: ready-made online calculators will be of little help or even misleading. When analyzing the properties of each coating, the following are sequentially analyzed:

• vapor permeability;
• heat exchange efficiency;
• fire and chemical safety;
• load created by the insulating layer.

Stone walls optimally combined with mineral wool and its analogues. Even the reduced thermal protection compared to leading products on the market is justified by superior cost and lightness, as well as ease of installation. The mineral version is soft and has average thermal conductivity. Cotton wool with the addition of basalt crumbs shows itself to be more reliable. But manufacturers charge extra money for this. This material is especially good in areas close to stoves and fireplaces.

Problems with cotton wool are due to its poor ability to hold shape. As moisture accumulates, the insulation becomes heavier and sags. The solution is to increase the number of fastenings compared to the recommended placement. Insulating wooden or frame buildings with wadding materials is not very practical. They are useful in cases where the walls need very little additional insulation. Styrene and substances based on it retain their shape better and are resistant to temperature fluctuations.

Excellent heat capacity allows for intensive thermal protection of thin walls.

Among polystyrene foam, it is recommended to choose products labeled SPB-S, which indicates the addition of fire retardants. If they are not there, it is better not to use such material at all. Penoplex is recommended for insulating roof junctions. Penoplex should be used to sheathe walls from the inside. There it will absorb very little space.

Preparatory work

If for one reason or another it is planned to insulate the wall from the inside, preparation consists of:

• maximum surface drying;
• installation of vapor barrier;
• laying waterproofing.

It is better to install the formwork before applying the foam. It will keep the surface as smooth as possible and make the layer especially reliable. The frame is covered (wrapped) with thermal insulation material, otherwise it will turn into an entrance gate for frost. If a brick wall is being finished, everything is removed from it (right down to the very foundation). The approach to concrete is similar. Dirt is removed with a vacuum cleaner; visible fungal infections can be easily eliminated by treating the surface with brushes and sandpaper.

How to insulate with your own hands?

Step-by-step instruction Installation of thermal insulation made of polystyrene foam is simple. This material is recommended for installation on wood and brick; fastening is carried out in the same way. The dry method is used for limited periods. The wet method requires the introduction of material into wall grooves and its natural drying for 48-72 hours. Under severely unfavorable weather conditions, these periods increase noticeably.

Only perfectly smooth walls are suitable for polystyrene foam. This material is fragile. If you start to adjust it to a surface with significant relief, the slabs may crack. It is advisable to eliminate all differences greater than 3 mm. Paint with low vapor permeability will have to be removed. For fastening you need to use special glue. A primer will definitely be required.

If you decide to use mineral wool, you should consider modification "Line Rock". It guarantees environmental cleanliness and excellent noise insulation. When choosing different materials, you should immediately clarify:

• their total length and width;
• possibility of slicing;
• desired methods of joining.

It is necessary to wait about 4 hours after applying the primer, even if the manufacturer promises faster drying. When turning to hired installers for help, you should carefully monitor how many dowels and glue they actually use.

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The issue of insulating a house from the inside causes a lot of controversy. There are people who are ardent opponents of this method of insulation, and there are also those who believe that thermal insulation will help make the house more comfortable and warmer. In this article we will not support either side, but will simply try to understand the features of internal insulation of a house.

The essence and problems of internal insulation

The concept of “insulation inside” means covering the surface of the walls with special insulating materials.

Many experts are against indoor insulation. In their opinion, it is better to use internal insulation only as a last resort, because this method of thermal insulation causes serious problems:

1. The walls don't warm up. The lack of internal insulation allows warm air from the room to pass through the walls and warm them. After covering the inside of the wall with insulating material, warm air does not have the opportunity to escape outside. The walls of the room do not heat up. Moreover, cracks begin to appear on them over time.
2. Condensate. Condensation appears under insulating materials after a minimum period of time. Its appearance will reduce the thermal insulation properties and also promote the formation of fungus. Ultimately, this will lead to the gradual destruction of the wall.
3. "Steals" the area. Unfortunately, experts have not yet come up with thermal insulation materials that would be thin. Most insulation materials have a thickness of 5 cm or more. And this significantly reduces the total area of ​​the room.

If you still decide to internal thermal insulation, you need to familiarize yourself with all the methods of such isolation.

There are 3 of them:

1. Foam insulation;
2. Pasting mineral wool on the walls;
3. Insulation with wood fiber boards.

Polystyrene foam and mineral wool are also used to insulate walls with outside. The laying of these materials outside and inside is carried out using the same technology. The use of wood fiber boards requires special knowledge.

Experts recommend laying polystyrene foam and mineral wool in 2 ways:

1. Standard. This option is no different from insulating the outside of the walls. You need to first clean the surface, secure the material, reinforce it and decorate it.
2. Using a frame. First you should make a frame out of metal or wood. Then the insulation process is carried out in the same way as described in method 1. The use of a frame allows you to avoid the formation of condensation, because the material is not “tightly” attached to the wall.

Experts also advise thinking about creating removable panels. This will give you the opportunity to monitor the appearance of condensation and take the necessary protective measures.

Fiberboards

Fiberboard (Fiberboard) is most often used to finish the outside of walls.

The advantages of this material are obvious:

1. It retains heat excellently and also absorbs noise.
2. The slabs are treated with toxic agents, so insects and rodents will not settle in your home.
3. Fiberboard perfectly tolerates changes in moisture and temperature.
4. Any tools can be used to cut slabs.
5. Easy to install. All you need to do is nail the slabs with nails at least 3.5 cm long. It is best to fasten the nails in a checkerboard pattern. To nail 1 sheet, as a rule, 16-18 nails are used. Fiberboard can be glued to plastered walls using mastic or PVA.
6. Possibility of laying wiring using special grooves.

The use of fiberboard boards does not guarantee that condensation will not appear on the walls in the future or other difficulties will arise.

When choosing a thermal insulation material, experts advise remembering the following criteria:

1. Environmental friendliness. If the material contains toxins, they will begin to be released into the room, causing harm to residents.
2. Fire safety. The insulation must be resistant to high temperatures.
3. Durability. The insulation should not quickly lose its shape and properties.
4. Low thermal conductivity. Good insulation keeps heat indoors rather than letting it out. The lower the thermal conductivity, the thinner the thermal insulation sheets you need.
5. Moisture resistance. Choose a material that does not absorb moisture well.

When preparing for internal wall insulation, you will need to purchase other materials.

In addition to thermal insulation material, you will need:

1. timber. You cannot do without it if mineral wool is used for insulation. The width of the material should be slightly greater than the thickness of the insulation. If you decide to use polystyrene foam, then use special glue instead of timber.
2. Reiki. They will be needed to attach the vapor barrier.
3. Vapor barrier. To ensure that the walls of the room can “breathe,” experts recommend using a special membrane that allows air to pass through.
4. Finishing material. If you are going to create a frame for insulation, then buy drywall or lining. You will also need wallpaper and putty to make the thermal insulation material aesthetically pleasing.
5. Consumables. You will not be able to attach polystyrene foam and mineral wool without plastic dowels with a wide head.
6. Antiseptics. To reduce the likelihood of mold or mildew, treat the insulation with these products.
7. Waterproofing. Experts advise purchasing a “breathable” membrane.

When all necessary materials purchased, it’s time to start the insulation process.

How to insulate a wall from the inside with your own hands: technology for performing the work

You can carry out internal insulation yourself. To do this, it is necessary to follow the technology for performing the work. This is what we will consider next.

If you think that insulating the inside of the walls begins with installing the frame, then you are mistaken.

The first stage of internal insulation includes:

1. Drying the surface of the walls.
2. Repairing all chips and cracks.
3. Surface treatment with antiseptic agents.
4. Applying a primer if the insulation is attached with glue.

Performing all of the above actions significantly increases the adhesive properties of the wall.

is performed in the following sequence:

1. Cover the walls with waterproofing.
2. First, a frame is assembled from a wooden beam. To fasten the beams, use self-tapping screws with wide threads.

Install elements wooden frame best in a vertical position. Thanks to this, moisture that will accumulate under the materials will be able to flow down without hindrance. The width between the bars should be slightly less than the mineral wool slabs.

When the frame assembly is complete, you will need:

1. Install mineral wool slabs between the bars so that there are no gaps.
2. Attach the heat insulator with dowels.
3. Stretch the vapor barrier film over the top and secure it.
4. Stretch the membrane horizontally.

You can additionally seal the joints on the membrane with tape.

The last stage of mineral wool insulation is covering the surface with plasterboard, clapboard or plywood using self-tapping screws or nails. The clean material is fastened to the frame bars.

Ceiling insulation is performed using the same technology. If it is necessary to insulate an attic or attic from the inside, it is recommended to apply thermal insulation on top of the ceiling. For residential premises, it is better to use a vapor barrier film in 2 layers: 1 layer is under the mineral wool slabs, and 2 is above the insulation.

If you want to save time, you can use foam plastic. This method of insulation includes the following mandatory steps:

1. The surface of the walls must be leveled and primed.
2. Next, the walls are treated with an antiseptic.
3. When the surface is dry, 6 holes are made on the foam board: 4 at the edges, and 2 in the middle. You also need to make a hole in the wall.
4. Using a roller, the surface of the sheet is coated with glue.
5. The foam is applied to the wall and held for several seconds.

Gluing foam sheets should be done in a checkerboard pattern.

When all the foam sheets are glued, you need to seal the seams:

• Narrow seams are sealed with foam.
• Gaps of 4 cm or more are sealed with pieces of polystyrene foam.

The technology for its installation is as follows:

1. Foam boards are lubricated with glue.
2. The mesh is soaked in glue, and then applied to the foam sheets.
3. When the glue dries, don't forget to sand the surface.
4. Then you can plaster the walls or stick wallpaper on them.

While almost everyone can handle wallpapering, plastering can be done by a person who has the necessary knowledge.

The plastering process occurs in the following sequence:

1. After the glue has completely dried, the surface must be sanded. By the way, instead of glue, you can use a primer to install the reinforcing mesh.
2. Next, apply a mixture 0.4-0.5 cm thick.
3. When the layer dries after about a day, grout the walls.
4. After this, the surface is re-primed and coated finishing layer thickness 0.2-0.3 cm.

Insulate inner side walls using the method described above can be done in any room for the construction of which foam blocks were used.

This technique has been successfully used to insulate the second floor. The only thing that is required of you is to select and purchase materials High Quality and carry out the insulation procedure according to the technology.

We hope that after reading this article, you are convinced that the procedure for insulating walls from the inside is not complicated. Even a non-professional builder can cope with this task.

We all know how important it is for our homes to be warm. You can spend a lot of effort and energy on building a house, you can think through the design of the facade down to the smallest detail, interior design, pay attention to every little detail in the environment. However, if it is cold in our house, then we are unlikely to feel good in it - thermal comfort is one of the most important conditions for comfort.

If you are the owner of a private home, you should be aware of how important the proper insulation of your home is. It doesn’t matter what material your house is built from - any building requires additional thermal insulation.

Insulation of a private house is best done at the construction stage - this makes it easier to take into account all the important factors and choose the appropriate method and material. However, if you bought a ready-made building or did not take care of the thermal insulation of the house during construction, you can insulate it after the construction work is completed.

Many owners want to insulate their home with their own hands - this is not surprising, because in this way you can save a significant amount of money. And there is more confidence that everything will be done conscientiously - who can you trust to keep the heat in the house if not yourself?

Methods of thermal insulation of a private house

Modern construction technologies distinguish between external and internal insulation of buildings. Each of these methods has its own advantages and disadvantages and is used depending on the characteristics of a given building.

The external method involves placing an insulating layer on the outside of the building. This method provides the following advantages:

• It becomes possible to protect the façade from negative influences external environment, which has a bad effect on its durability.
• The useful area inside the building is not “eaten up”, as happens when we choose the internal location of the insulation.
• The dew point is located outside the house, which helps prevent fogging of the walls indoors.

However, it happens that external insulation for some reason it is undesirable or impossible. This usually happens in cases where it is necessary to maintain the original appearance facade or its design does not allow external placement of insulation. In this case, they choose internal insulation - its advantage is that it is much easier to do it yourself without the need to hire a team of professional craftsmen.

Before you insulate the walls of the house from the inside with your own hands, you should take into account that with this method the dew point is located inside the room. Everyone knows that air masses carry a certain proportion of water vapor. When the thermal layer is located inside the building, the wall remains cold. Water vapor coming into contact with it condenses into droplets of moisture, which leads to fogging of the wall. Droplets of moisture turn into ice and can destroy walls by getting into cracks on their surface. In order to avoid this, it is necessary to consider proper waterproofing that will protect the wall and insulation from condensation.

There are various materials with which you can make effective and inexpensive internal insulation of your home with your own hands.

Do-it-yourself internal insulation of a house using penoplex

Penoplex (expanded polystyrene) is widely used for thermal insulation of buildings. This is modern material white, consisting of air and foamed polystyrene. It is very convenient and beneficial for this type of work, thanks to which expanded polystyrene occupies one of the leading places in demand among thermal insulators. Penoplex is produced in the form of slabs of various thicknesses and different overall dimensions. The thicker the slab, the more effective the thermal insulation.

Expanded polystyrene has the following properties:

• It has an extremely low thermal conductivity coefficient, which makes it an excellent material for thermal insulation of buildings.
• Absorbs noise very well - an important advantage if you want to protect your home from excess extraneous sounds.
• It does not allow or absorb moisture - this is very convenient, since there will be no opportunity to create a humid environment.
• Does not lose its properties under the influence of moisture.
• Durable.
• Non-toxic - penoplex does not emit any substances that can harm the human body.
• It tolerates temperature changes well and retains its characteristics over a wide temperature range.
• It has a small weight, which simplifies its transportation and installation.
• Works well with conventional tools.
• Non-flammable
• It does not rot and does not allow fungi and mold to form.
• It's inexpensive.

Do-it-yourself internal insulation of a house using penoplex looks like this:

• We prepare the surface of the wall, clearing it of dust and debris. We seal all cracks and cracks using putty and a spatula.
• We prime the surface with a special acrylic primer in order to eliminate the possibility of mold and fungi.
• After the primer has dried, we glue the polystyrene foam boards to the surface of the wall. Apply glue to the wall and the slab and press the slab against the wall. We start installation from the bottom and glue the slabs end-to-end in a checkerboard pattern. We blow out all connections with polyurethane foam.
• After the glue has dried, we additionally fix each slab using plastic dowels with wide caps in the center and in the corners.
• On top of the polystyrene foam we stretch a layer of waterproofing - dense polyethylene, which we glue at the joints with tape.
• We stretch a reinforcing mesh over the waterproofing.
• And now we can start finishing decorative plaster.

At this point, thermal insulation using polystyrene foam can be considered complete.

Internal insulation of house walls using mineral wool

Mineral wool is another very popular and widely used home insulation material. There are several varieties of it - stone (basalt) wool, glass wool and slag wool. The most convenient and popular option is stone wool - it is made by melting and centrifuging volcanic rocks. Unlike glass wool, it does not require any safety measures when installation work and has more advantageous characteristics:

• Excellent insulation various areas buildings.
• Absorbs noise well.
• Has high vapor permeability.
• Highly environmentally friendly and non-toxic.
• Its high fire-resistant qualities make it possible to perform thermal protection of areas with high temperatures- for example, near stoves and chimneys.
• Does not absorb moisture.
• Durable.
• It withstands temperature changes well.
• Resistant to rotting and molding.

The high vapor permeability of mineral wool requires the use of waterproofing - otherwise, droplets of moisture can become entangled in its fibers and create a humid environment, which will negatively affect the durability of the building and insulation.

Mineral wool has quite an impressive mass - when working with it, you must take into account the ability of the walls to withstand a load of this level. This material is produced in the form of rolls, rigid slabs and flexible mats with a fibrous structure.

Internal insulation with mineral wool occurs according to the following scheme:

• Thoroughly clean the surface of the walls from dust and dirt. Use a spatula and putty to seal all holes and cracks. We remove all possible areas of molding.
• Using thin strips, we fill the wall with a waterproofing layer of dense polyethylene. We carefully glue all joints with tape, ensuring tightness.
• We put a sheathing of wooden beams arranged vertically on the wall. The sheathing pitch should be equal to the width of the mineral wool roll.
• We tightly place the insulation end-to-end between the sheathing beams. We glue the connections with adhesive tape to avoid the formation of cold bridges.
• On top of the thermal insulation layer we stretch another layer of waterproofing made of dense polyethylene, gluing it at the joints and monitoring the tightness. We attach it to the sheathing beams using thin wooden planks.
• We fill the laths onto the beams finishing coat- lining, drywall or any other option to taste. At this point, thermal insulation using mineral wool can be considered complete.

Use of foil insulation

Modern technologies offer a number of new developments in the field of thermal insulation of housing. One of these new products is foil insulation, which is increasingly used for thermal protection of houses.

Foil insulation is a heat-insulating layer to which a metallized foil coating is glued. Foil is not a heat insulator - its thermal conductivity coefficient is extremely high, which does not allow it to be used as insulation under any circumstances. However, another phenomenon is used here - the foil reflects thermal radiation and directs it back into the room.

The industry produces foil insulation based on foamed polyethylene, foamed polystyrene and mineral wool. There are varieties with one-sided metallized coating and double-sided ones. Foil heat insulators with a self-adhesive coating are also available - this greatly simplifies their installation on the wall.

Let's consider the thermal insulation of a house from the inside using foil insulation, for example, penofol:

• We clean the surface of the wall from dust and debris, carefully seal all cracks and crevices using putty and a spatula.
• We attach a sheathing of wooden beams arranged vertically to the wall. We choose the pitch of the beams equal to the width of the penofol roll.
• Between the beams of the sheathing we place end-to-end foam rolls so that the metallized coating faces the inside of the room. We glue the joints using a special adhesive aluminum tape.
• Immediately after this, we can install the finishing coating on the sheathing beams - foil heat insulators based on foamed polyethylene or polystyrene do not require the use of waterproofing. After the finishing coat is completed, the thermal protection process can be considered complete.

Conclusion

The process of thermal insulation of a house from the inside has more disadvantages compared to external thermal protection - it is used when thermal insulation from the outside is for some reason undesirable or impossible. However, the installation of the thermal layer itself is simpler and easier to do if all the work is done independently.

Thermal insulation of housing from the inside requires a good knowledge of all the subtleties and nuances. The choice of material depends on the characteristics of the room and the wishes of the owner of the house. The work is done quite simply and you will not have any difficulties if you are careful and hardworking. Your efforts will bring good fruits- with your own hands you will make your home exactly a home - a place where you want to return in order to enjoy the warmth and comfort.