The modern market is saturated various kinds construction tools and devices. Take, for example, a hole drill: today you can easily find a device whose cost is quite affordable, and the declared characteristics completely satisfy the buyer. It would seem that there is nothing simpler: buy and use. But you shouldn’t always rush into such an acquisition. The fact is that budget equipment in practice does not always meet the needs of the buyer, or is even not at all capable of performing the functions assigned to it: the drill is in no hurry to enter the ground even with strong pressure, engine speed drops due to heavy load, etc.

Buy a powerful and expensive device for a small volume of construction or gardening work– not always advisable. Renting is also not a cheap pleasure. Therefore, craftsmen strive to use the equipment they already have at their disposal to create compact drilling rigs.

Earth drill from a drill

In most cases, a mechanized hole drill is a power plant ( powerful drill or gasoline engine), which is connected to a conventional hand drill using a simple mechanical drive. You can make a drill yourself.

DIY drill bit.

You can find a ready-made serial drill for sale.

skyle User FORUMHOUSE

Many people say that they simply bought such an auger and secured it to it a powerful low-speed electric drill.

Engine characteristics

Recommendations regarding the number of revolutions of the power plant and its other characteristics deserve separate consideration. Let's start with the fact that the power plant can be connected to the drill either directly or through an additional gearbox. Everyone determines the need to use a gearbox for themselves. As practice shows, if the rated power of the drill is 2 kW, then there is no need to use a gearbox (especially if the installation does not have a special frame, and you have to hold it with your hands during operation).

jumper_at_home User FORUMHOUSE

At first, a gearbox was planned, but after field tests with the “drill - auger” scheme, it was decided to abandon the gearbox. The moment is such that it does not notice the operator at all (if you drill with your hands).

The power indicator - 2 kW - was not chosen by chance. These are the drills most often used by our forum participants in the manufacture of mechanized hole drills.

Tri.Dr.E User FORUMHOUSE

Have construction experience columnar foundation with a grillage. I used a 2 kW drill and an auger designed for a hole diameter of 30 cm (the diameter of the drill is somewhere around 29.3 cm). For deeper drilling, I used an extension cord from a regular steel pipe. The soil in my place is not sugar: earth, then clay, then some kind of lens with beach sand, then again clay with sand, and then blue clay (at a depth - 1.8 - 1.9 m).

In order to make holes of the required depth in the ground, the user had to build a compact drilling rig (with a frame, winch and other accessories).

But now we are talking about the power of the power unit, and from the description presented it is easy to understand what a drill with a rated power of 2 kW (even without a gearbox) is capable of.

A little theory

If we consider the relationship between the power of a drill (or gasoline engine) and the torque on the drill shaft, it is determined by the following relationship:

• N – power (W).
• M – torque (Nm).
• n – number of revolutions (rpm).
• 9549 – special coefficient.

Theoretically, the torque on the working shaft of such an installation at a speed of 500 rpm should be 38 Nm (64 Nm at 300 rpm). But to calculate torque, it is always necessary to take into account losses, which are determined by the efficiency of the device. The thing is that most power tool manufacturers indicate only the power consumption of their devices, and the output power (on the working shaft) is 1/3...1/4 less than the consumed power. Accordingly, the torque is less. A 2 kW drill at 300 rpm will create a torque on the spindle that is not 64 Nm, but approximately 48 Nm.

When choosing a power unit for your pit drill, you can consider devices with a power consumption of less than 2 kW. But then you will have to seriously think about introducing into the design drilling rig reduction gear.

uvl77 User FORUMHOUSE

Regarding the gearbox: a gearbox is good because it allows you to proportionally change the speed and torque without changing the power. That is, by reducing the number of revolutions through the gearbox, we proportionally increase the torque. And power in this case remains a generalized characteristic (constant).

Based on the torque created by a 2 kW drill (without an additional gearbox), you can choose a suitable device for your hole drill. In other words, knowing the power of the drill, the number of revolutions of its spindle and the gear ratio of the gearbox used, you can calculate the value of torque that you will receive at the output of the power plant. But it should be understood that the speed of the drill cannot be greatly reduced.

uvl77 User FORUMHOUSE

The optimal speed during drilling is from 60...100 to 200...300 rpm. Modedepends on the type of soil, drilling method, type of drill bits, well diameter, etc.

The above quote mentions drilling methods. There are two of them: continuous drilling and drilling with constant soil removal. For continuous drilling, the rig must provide high torque.

During drilling with constant soil removal, an auger drilled into the soil to a certain depth rises to the surface. In this case, the loosened soil located on the working blades of the auger is also removed out.

The operation is repeated until the drilling rig reaches the specified depth. The process is labor-intensive, but does not require large torques.

As we have already said, when choosing a power unit for a drilling rig, it is better to focus on a low-speed drill with a power of 2 kW (that is, the torque that it transmits to the working shaft). Judging by the numerous reviews from FORUMHOUSE users, these devices have proven themselves quite well. The power of gasoline engines must also correspond to the specified indicator.

Gearboxes for pit drills and their varieties

The assembly of any mechanism in most cases is characterized by the use of improvised materials, devices and components that have been lying idle for a long time because there was no worthy use for them. The experience of our users suggests that a mechanical reduction gear can be made from a wide variety of parts: from spare parts for an old moped, from a simple chain or worm gear, from a suitable gearbox of unknown origin, accidentally lying around on an old shelf in the garage, etc.

When equipping a drilling rig with a gearbox, the main thing is not to forget about the optimal speed of the drill and the fact that it is necessary to ensure sufficient torque on its working shaft.

Mechanic020 User FORUMHOUSE

I had a broken moped lying around, so I took it from rear gearbox. I sawed off the gearbox with a turbine (the back part of the aluminum housing with the gearbox), then secured it through a gear transmission This gearbox is powered by an electric motor from an old electric saw with a power of 2 kW. The engine with gearbox gave a ratio of 13:1 (the output turned out to be approximately 300 rpm).

About the chain drive: with a certain amount of ingenuity, you can, without making much effort, build a completely reliable hole drill with sufficient power. The presented idea is not new, and many people successfully apply it in practice (if necessary).

jumper_at_home User FORUMHOUSE

There is no gearbox, although it was planned to make it from the VAZ 2101 timing chain and its sprockets. The gear ratio is 1:2. Tests have shown that it is not needed. Maybe use it on very hard soils, but we don’t have those.

The use of the above mechanisms requires a non-standard approach to assembling the drilling rig. If you have a small serial gearbox (or the opportunity to purchase it inexpensively), then the task becomes much easier. Here, for example, is a photo of a gearbox posted by user melomandk.

Melomandk User FORUMHOUSE

I found such a gearbox. But the gear ratio is large - equal to or even slightly more than 1:40. Dimensions (according to the body) – about 15 x 15 cm.

As it turned out, the device has quite suitable parameters.

di griz User FORUMHOUSE

My hole drill is based on just such a gearbox. So far I'm very pleased. The engine is an angle grinder (3000 output rpm). The power of the grinder is 2 kW. I didn’t try to drill into clay, but I did take a hole drill into hard compacted earth with inclusions of crushed stone and rotten roots. The diameter of the auger is 160 mm, the knives on it are homemade - made from springs.

bed

If there is a lot of work, if you need to drill deeply, and it is very difficult to hold the installation in your hands, then the existing equipment can be secured in a special frame.

The design of homemade frames, as well as that of mechanical reduction gears, can be very diverse. But there are design elements that are used in the vast majority of cases.

Lifting mechanism

A chain drive installed inside the central pillar can be used as a lifting mechanism. Raising and lowering is carried out either using an additional electric motor or using a handle (as in the photo from the user jumper_at_home).

jumper_at_home User FORUMHOUSE

The maximum depth was 1.8 m (auger + extension). There was no need to go deeper. Homemade winch - 2 gears and a chain from a motorcycle.

In order for the plate with the main electric motor to move freely along vertical pipe, four rollers can be installed on the carriage.

Another lift design involves the use steel cable and winches with an additional electric motor.

Mechanic020 User FORUMHOUSE

By square pipe The main electric motor of the drill moves up and down. It moves thanks to a winch (which I already had). This winch is needed to pull the drill with soil out of the well.

For comfort Mechanic020 made a remote control that controls the winch and rotation of the drill during operation.

The drill, together with the soil adhering to it, can create quite large loads on the winch. At great depths, it will work on the principle of a piston, creating a vacuum underneath and aggravating the situation when rising upward. Therefore, the more powerful the winch used, the better.

DmitryEvg User FORUMHOUSE

My winch is designed for 250 kg (500 through the chain hoist). Power – 1 kW.

Bottom support for bed

The lower support of the frame can be equipped with two wheels (for convenient movement within the construction site). If everything is done correctly, the installation will be transferred from the transport position to the working position by simply tilting the bed.

On supporting elements It is advisable to install adjusting screws on the bed, which will help you adjust the drill in accordance with the vertical level before starting work.

Materials for the manufacture of the frame are selected for reasons of strength. Not everyone can independently perform complex structural calculations, but anyone can benefit from the experience of the participants of our portal.

Yes, user Tri.Dr.E I made a frame from a corner 50*50*5. Vertical supports and the upper crossbar are made of two corners of the specified size fastened together.

User jumper_at_home put different things into the design of the frame metallic profile with a wall thickness of at least 3 mm. The platform for the power plant was made by him from steel sheet 10 mm thick.

And here is a photo of the installation that was created by the user PwrWW“from what was” (as he himself says).

PwrWW User FORUMHOUSE

The hardest thing was to find two smooth, solid three-meter pipes with a diameter of 60 mm. If they didn't exist, I would buy them profile pipe by 80 or 100 mm. Below I used a piece of 80 channel and a corner from scrap metal. Also among the scrap I found 4 U-shaped plates of suitable length.

Ideally, the carriage should be made in such a way that the drill operator can stand on it if necessary. It is especially important to comply with this condition on hard soils.

jumper_at_home User FORUMHOUSE

Here's what was used to protect the drill from turning: a steel stop angle - 6 mm, screwed to the hole for the handle, which is on the drill body. Everything is bolted together with sufficiently flat surfaces. If you want it even more securely, provide a clamp for the seat groove located on the end of the drill.

Mechanical drive

The design of the mechanical drive connecting the drill or other motor to the working shaft of the earth drill is not particularly complex. To create it, an adapter is enough, which is inserted into the drill chuck (Morse taper, etc.) and a cylindrical bushing, one end is welded to the adapter with bark, and the other is put on the drill shaft. In order to increase the depth of the hole being drilled, removable elbows made of the same material as the drill rod can be inserted between the drill and the drill.

In order to prevent damage when the working element jams, the drive and the drill should be connected using a special protective pin. The pin is made of a metal rod - 4...8 mm. It is better to test the installation with a pin having a minimum diameter (4 mm).

Almost a pro User FORUMHOUSE

Imagine if your drill hits a stone and jams. I use a 4mm nail as a shear pin and it has never been cut off. But if an obstacle is encountered, it doesn’t give too much away.

Homemade drill

As we have already said, the working part of the installation (drill) can be purchased at a specialized store, but it is quite possible to make it yourself. Here, for example, homemade drill with removable blades.

To make it, we need a thick-walled pipe of suitable diameter (30 mm), as well as material for the blades and for their base. The bases to which the blades will be screwed can be made of thick metal sheet(6...10 mm). The blades themselves should be made of high-strength spring steel (Article 65G). If you need a garden hole drill of small diameter, then you can use ordinary springs from a truck.

To make blades, you can use circular saw blades.

The diameter of the drill should be 5 mm larger than the diameter of the holes being drilled.

We present to your attention a sketch drawing of the product.

By discarding the top handle, we get exactly what we need.

Design homemade drill must meet the following parameters:

• The angle between the cutting blades (between the blades) can vary from 25° to 30°.
• The front edge of the blade is sharpened at an angle of 45°...60°.
• It is advisable to weld a thick metal drill to the lower end of the drill, which will make it easier for the installation to penetrate dense soil.

How to attach a garden auger to a drill.

Our Russian Kulibins can do everything, so a homemade ice drill is not a problem for us, if only the task had been set.

First, let’s decide what manufacturing process we have ahead of us, because every thing can be:

• make from scratch;
• modify;
• retool.

Today's editorial assignment obliges us to talk about making an ice drill with our own hands from scratch and modifying existing models with gasoline engines using a gearbox.

What won't we talk about?

In this material you will not read about converting manual ice augers into electric ones by connecting a screwdriver to them. There will be no description of this process, since there is no actual do-it-yourself manufacturing here, but rather the connection of three parts: a screw, an adapter and a drill together.

Manufacturing from scratch

It's scary to even begin to describe this difficult process. Without metalworking, turning, welding and milling abilities and skills, it is simply unrealistic to make an ice screw with your own hands. For craftsmen, this is probably not very difficult, so let’s get started.

To describe the manufacturing process, we have selected several models:

• spatula;
• annular;
• frame;
• screw

They have one thing in common - top part with handles, or a brace. Therefore, first we will try to make it.

Even this is a rather complicated process for an uninitiated person, judge for yourself:

1. We select a pipe of suitable diameter.
2. On the ground or floor we draw out the bends of our brace.
3. We pour dry sand into the pipe and plug it with plugs so that it does not spill out. If you bend without sand, the metal may be damaged.
4. We bend the pipe using gas burner or a blowtorch.
5. We weld a bracket to the bottom of the rotor to connect it to the auger.
6. We drill holes on the handle like on a factory Barnaul drill.
7. We sand and paint the workpiece.
8. We buy a repair kit for the Tonar ice auger in the store.
9. We strengthen the upper and middle handles from the kit in the prepared holes.

The rotator is ready, the most difficult task remains - manufacturing the lower part of the mechanism.

Spatula

This homemade ice screw is easier than others to make. A cutting part cut from a steel plate is simply welded onto the lower pipe. It is slightly bent in the form of a spatula, one edge of which is sharpened with sandpaper.

Although such a drill can make a hole in ice, and it is cheap and easy to manufacture, it still has plenty of disadvantages:

• gets dull quickly;
• the absence of an auger forces you to frequently scoop out the slush;
• slowly cuts ice;
• difficult to rotate.

Annular

At the base of such a drill there is a ring with knives and an attached frame. At the top, the frame is connected to the pipe, and the pipe to the brace. The steel strip is twisted into a spiral and point-fixed to the frame. It turns out to be a completely workable model.

Frame

This DIY ice screw is also easy to make. Let us describe this process in detail:

1. We weld a sharp tip into the pipe for centering on ice.
2. In the lower part, we weld steel rods to the pipe on both sides at an angle of 30 degrees.
3. At the bottom we connect them with a strip with an axis made of a pipe. You should end up with two triangles, the largest angle of which is approximately eighty degrees.
4. We drill holes in the plates and fasten the knives using bolts and nuts.
5. We adjust the attack angles of the knives using additional pads made of metal plates and washers of different thicknesses.

The sludge from the holes made by an ice auger of this design will also have to be scooped out using a scoop.

Screw

This cannot be completely done at home. If someone thinks that the whole problem is with the auger, then this is not so. The main part of such a mechanism is the base for the knives. It can only be made by specialists in workshops.

Let's skip the process of creating this part and describe the rest of the process:

1. We weld a part to the top of the pipe to connect it to the brace.
2. We also attach it to the bottom for welding. seat for knives.
3. From sheet metal cut circles.
4. We cut them to the center from one edge and bend them in the form of an auger blade.
5. Having bent a sufficient number of blanks, we weld them to the pipe.
6. We sand and paint the resulting product.
7. We connect both parts of the ice screw into one.
8. We screw the knives.

Motorization modification

In this part of our story we will talk about converting a trimmer or chainsaw into an ice drill. The main issues that arise during this work are the manufacture of the adapter and the selection of the gearbox.

An ice drill from a new type of chainsaw, such as those produced by Stihl, Hoogsvarna or Chinese comrades, also requires the manufacture of an additional ergonomic handle. Our old friendship does not require such alteration.

Converting a trimmer into an ice screw is most suitable for models with a folding shaft. An adapter for connecting such a mechanism to a screw is the easiest to make.

Each model of chainsaw or trimmer requires its own modification, so there is no one universal manufacturing recipe. Best to find experienced craftsman and come to him with your tool and together make a decision and draw a diagram for manufacturing the required adapter.

No less important for winter fishing is the gearbox for the ice auger. With its help, the rotation parameters of the shafts are changed, reducing or increasing the speed. This greatly affects the quality and speed of drilling holes.

If the adapter is specially machined, then the gearbox is selected from some operating mechanism, for example, from a roller conveyor.

An important task is right choice auger for an ice drill, it is desirable that it coincides in the direction of rotation with that of a gasoline tool.

It is important to make an ice drill from a chainsaw carefully, taking into account the slightest nuances, because the alteration is very painstaking and expensive, and ready product will be used for a long time. It is important to ensure that the finished tool is easy to repair and maintain, and that the parts are accessible and interchangeable.

To create a well or carry out another type of earthworks It is not only large-scale drilling rigs operated by specialists that can be used. On a small scale and sufficient quantity time, simpler equipment can be used.

One of these tools is an earth drill - a device that comes in many variations and varieties. For gardening and dacha work it is most in demand and is also used in various industries.

1 Design and purpose of the drill

An excavation drill is a device that is used to create cylindrical holes in the soil (to be more precise, its upper layers are drilled). It consists of a rod (rod), handle and drive. At the bottom of the rod there is a guide tip and a helical blade, mainly made in the form of cutters or cutters.

All drills can be divided into two categories: devices that require the use of manual force, and automatic drills equipped with motors.

2 Types of drills

The classification of portable drilling devices, depending on the type of drive, is carried out into three groups: electric drill, hydraulic earth drill, and gasoline devices.

Gasoline drills are the most extensive category of equipment. A gasoline earth drill (also known as a motor drill) is the best option For household use, if the capabilities of a conventional hand drill are not enough. It easily opens layers of soil up to 2-3 meters deep; in fact, the depth of the well is limited only by the size of the rod extension.

In addition to devices for economic use, there is a category of heavy gas drills for construction: these are fairly large mechanisms that are controlled by two operators. They are equipped with high-power engines that allow you to make wells in problematic soils: hard soil, sandy soil, or land with a high content of mountain inclusions.

The main feature of such devices is that all engines are equipped with a gearbox, through which the engine torque is transmitted to the rock-breaking element. Depending on the class of the device, two types of gearboxes can be installed on it: for heavy drills - worm gears, for light drills - coaxial gearboxes. The fuel usually used is gasoline mixed with 92 oil.

The design of the motor drill consists of the following elements:

• Drive: for heavy ones - 3-4 stroke engines, for light ones - two-stroke;
• Handle for holding;
• Control elements: power adjustment, speed switching;
• Augers are usually used as a forage destruction element.

The cost of devices for household use starts from 10 thousand rubles. When purchasing, you should first of all pay attention to such manufacturers as Hitachi, Husqvarna, Stihl - these are well-established companies whose products have an optimal price-performance ratio.

There is also a large number of companies where possible. Overall, renting is a great option if you only need the device for a few days. Today, rent, on average in the market, costs about 1000 rubles per day, plus you will need to pay a deposit of 5-10 thousand.

Electric drills are a less popular option compared to the previous one, but still common and well-known.

The only structural difference between such mechanisms and gas drills is the electric motor - all other elements are identical. The use of an electric drive adds both advantages and certain disadvantages to the device.

The indisputable advantages of electric drills include their noiselessness, since, unlike a gasoline engine, the electric drive is practically inaudible.

The disadvantages are the following: electric motors have relatively less power than gasoline ones, that is, for the same money you can buy a more powerful gas drill than a device with an electric motor.

For domestic use this is not particularly important, but in the case of professional use this factor can become critical. It is also worth remembering that the device must be connected to the network, which somewhat reduces its portability, since any batteries have the unpleasant feature of running out at the most inopportune moment.

The cost of high-quality electric drills starts from 15 thousand. The main manufacturers are Makita, Mora, Hitachi. Rent – ​​from 1000 rubles per day.

Hydraulic drills are a serious category industrial installations. The main advantage of such drills over gasoline and electrical devices– reverse function, which makes it possible to drill both clockwise and counterclockwise. Thanks to it, it is much easier to pass through problematic soil layers.

In addition, hydraulic motors, in comparison with electric drives, are 2-3 times smaller in size and much lighter in weight, which makes a hydraulic earth drill more convenient to use.

But even with the same drive size, a hydraulic earth drill will always have more power. Hydraulic motors provide the most flexible control of shaft speed, which allows you to select the optimal drilling mode for different soil layers.

The only significant drawback of drills with hydraulic motors is the “delicacy” of the drive. It is necessary to always maintain its cleanliness, since mechanical contamination inside the drive significantly reduces the service life of the device.

A hydraulic earth drill, in comparison with analogues, is several times more expensive. So, average price is 30-35 thousand. Renting hydraulic drills will cost you from 1.5 to 2 thousand per day. It is also possible to rent a hydraulic drill with operators, in which case you will pay for one hour of time. This rental will cost you about 1 thousand rubles per hour.

2.1 How to make a drill with your own hands?

If you do not want to purchase something that you can make yourself, or you are not satisfied with the expensive rental of equipment, then you can try to make a mechanical earth drill with your own hands.

To create a homemade drill you need the following tools:

• Welding machine;
• Grinder (with metal circles);
• Small repair equipment - hammer, metal brush, pliers, sandpaper.

It is also necessary to acquire the materials from which the structure will be made:

• For the rod - fittings 150 cm long, 15 mm in diameter. (adjust the height of the drill depending on your height);
• For the handle - fittings, or a metal pipe 40 centimeters long, with a diameter of 20 mm;
• For a cutter - a disk from a circular saw, or a sheet of metal 3-4 mm thick;
• For the “needle” (guide element) – a metal drill with a diameter of 15 mm.

Homemade hand drill for excavation work is made as follows:

• We manufacture drill cutters (blades). If you take a disk from a circular saw to do this, you can save a significant amount of time and effort.
• To make a cutter from such a disk, cut it in half, and on each half grind off the blades with which the disk was originally equipped. There is no need to sharpen the edges of the cutters at first, so as not to cut yourself during the welding process - the sharpness is imparted after all the connections are completed.
• If using ordinary metal, make approximate markings on the sheet and cut out two blanks with a grinder. Their size depends on the purpose for which the manual excavation drill will be used - for, or a well for planting trees.
• If there is no clear goal, then the best option “for all occasions” are cutters from 15 to 20 mm.
• We prepare the fittings for the rod. It is not recommended to make a rod from two small pieces of reinforcement welded together, since sooner or later, due to soil resistance, their connection will disintegrate.
• A metal drill is welded to the end of the rod; it acts as a homemade guide element ( optimal length drills from 7 to 10 centimeters)
• We weld cutters to the junction of the reinforcement and the drill on the rod. This should be done so that there is an angle of 30 degrees between them.
• We take a grinder, put on an abrasive wheel for metal, and sharpen the edges of the cutters: we remove the upper and lower layers of metal along the outer edges of the semicircles.
• We make a handle: a piece of reinforcement, or a steel pipe, is welded perpendicular to the top of the rod.

You can also make a slightly improved design - a homemade hand drill for excavation work with an extendable rod. To do this, a bolt is welded to the drill handle, and a nut is welded to the top of the rod. A piece is used as an extension cord metal pipe, on the edges of which a bolt and nut are welded, identical in size to those welded to the handle and rod.

2.2 Construction and application of the drill (video)

Fans of fishing in winter time years have long appreciated the benefits of using an ice drill. Both professional fisherman and beginners know very well how this device makes it easier to drill holes in the ice. Naturally, you can use an ice pick the old fashioned way to break through the ice, but an electric ice drill made at home will greatly facilitate the process. Moreover, if you have the drawings and the desire, you can quickly and easily make an ice drill from a screwdriver with your own hands.

Advantages of a homemade electric ice drill

Automated homemade device, made from a screwdriver, has many advantages over products purchased in a store. The main advantages include:

• connecting an electric drive yourself is much cheaper than purchasing a factory product;
• the manufacturing process requires a minimum Supplies and a standard set of tools;
• improvement of a conventional drill takes place at home, without the involvement of third-party specialists.

The result of efforts home handyman will be an excellent automated device for drilling ice of any thickness, which will turn into an indispensable assistant for the fisherman in winter fishing.

In order for a home-made ice drilling product to cope with the assigned tasks, it is important to choose the right screwdriver model with high power ratings. Using a weak tool will lead to problems when drilling a hole in a thick layer of ice.

Considering that the ice ax must be mobile, you need to buy a power tool with battery. Also, the electric drive must have maximum physical strength and reliability. It must withstand various loads, mechanical shocks and other troubles that happen while fishing.

A power tool for a homemade ice drill must meet the following characteristics:

An excellent product is a powerful screwdriver for an ice drill from the Bosch brand. You can also use a good Japanese power tool trademark Makita. Although it all depends financial opportunities and fisherman's preferences. The main thing is that the product is suitable in terms of power and battery capacity.

Types of battery

Today, a stand-alone electric screwdriver that can be used for self-made Electric ice drill, equipped with different batteries. The following batteries are popular:

• The lithium-ion battery is lightweight, has a high charging speed, but is susceptible to low temperatures. Plus, such a battery has a high cost.
• Nickel-cadmium battery has heavy weight, but is capable of working under extreme conditions low temperatures, which is important for winter fishing.

Experienced fishermen always take two batteries with them on the ice. To prevent the battery from discharging quickly, it is better to store it under your jacket in a specially made pocket or case. The presence of two batteries allows you to significantly extend the autonomy of the screwdriver.

Replacements for electric screwdrivers

Naturally, to create an electric drill for drilling ice, not only an electric screwdriver is suitable . Home craftsmen can easily adapt other tools:

• electric drill;
• electric impact wrench;
• chainsaw.

The last option is convenient because it runs on gasoline rather than a battery. However, without special tools and lathe Making an ice screw from a chainsaw at home is very difficult.

It is important to understand that not every model of ice auger can be attached to screwdrivers. This is due to the peculiarity of domestic products, which, when drilling ice, rotate in the direction of unwinding of the power tool chuck. This causes a lot of inconvenience during winter fishing. Of course, you can additionally use a reduction gear, but not every home craftsman can make it.

Therefore, when making an automatic ice auger, it is better to give preference to imported models. Any models from the Mora company are ideal, as they easily adapt to electric tool. For them, all the necessary adapters can be bought in the store, which will allow you to efficiently connect the cartridge to the auger.

The Tonar model deserves special attention. The manufacturing company produces removable augers with cutting heads that can be easily connected to a cordless screwdriver. And to drill through thick ice, you can use an extension cord purchased at the store.

Features of manufacturing the screw part

Most fishermen are accustomed to making various accessories themselves. This is due to the fact that not everyone can afford to buy a high-quality device in a store, and even more so if it is mechanized. To manufacture such a product, you will need to prepare spare parts from the following list:

1. Metal pipe of suitable diameter.
2. Metal plates for making a screw.
3. High quality steel knives.

To connect all the individual elements, electric welding will be required. After all the parts are welded, they are cleaned with a grinder. The resulting product is painted to protect against corrosion. Given the complexity of such work, you will need to contact a specialist. Therefore, it is better to buy a finished product in a store.

Cutting part

Every fisherman dreams of comfort while fishing. It is important to remember that the quality of ice drilling depends on the following parameters:

• Blade hardening. IN modern models Drillers use blades with hardness ratings from 30 to 70 units.
• Workmanship cutting knife. The knife has two cutting edges. The speed of ice drilling depends on the quality of sharpening of the latter.

The choice of steel when making an electric ice drill with your own hands is important if all its parts, except the electric drive, are made independently. If you buy finished model in a store, you don’t have to pay attention to this parameter. The following materials are used to make the cutting part:

1. Hard special steel grade P18 or similar analogues. It is important to pay attention to the hardness of the material, its shape and the quality of sharpening.
2. Metal coated with a titanium layer. Blades with this coating have a maximum service life.

Preparing the adapter yourself

It is important to remember that the manufacture of the adapter depends on the characteristics of the drill. If you are using a Swedish Mora drill, then an adapter for an ice drill for the following type of screwdriver is suitable:

• for the standard model you will need a product with a diameter of 1.8 cm;
• if used model Mora Nova, the diameter of the adapter should be 2.2 cm.

To prevent the auger from turning in the screwdriver sleeve, the adapter must have a hexagonal work surface. And to prevent accidental loss, a special stop is installed.

There are also adapters with handles. They are easier to use when drilling ice. The adapter model with a diameter of 1.8 cm from the Higashi company fits perfectly with all Swedish drills and some domestic products.

Assembly of individual elements

Having dealt with all the elements that make up the device, you can start assembling an ice auger with your own hands at home. This is a simple process if the previously discussed elements are prepared:

• auger part of the drill;
• electric screwdriver;
• adapter of the appropriate diameter.

The cartridge is connected to the auger using an adapter. This completes the assembly of the automated drill for drilling ice.

Instrument care rules

Whatever type of ice drill based on a screwdriver is made, in order for it to work as long as possible, it is important to properly care for it. To do this, you should adhere to the following rules:

As you can see, making an ice drill with your own hands is a fairly simple process. The main thing is to choose the right adapter, screwdriver and cutting part of the product. By combining all the components into a single structure, you get indispensable assistant on winter fishing. This tool will allow you to drill a hole in ice of any thickness in a few minutes.

If you've ever tried to dig holes for, for example, fence pegs, then you know what a tedious and tedious task it is. I recently had the same need at my dacha. Only the holes had to be made not for the fence, but for the piles on which the foundation would subsequently rest frame house. According to the design, there should be a lot of these piles; drilling so many holes by hand is simply unrealistic. Accordingly, I became interested in ways to automate/mechanize the soil drilling process.

It was immediately discovered that similar tasks had already been set for humanity and, therefore, such cool things as motorized earth drills were invented. Typically, this is a frame with two handles (so that it can be held by two people) on which a gasoline engine is mounted with a gearbox to increase torque. Rotation from the gearbox shaft is transmitted to a special earth drill, it is also called an auger. Such devices are not cheap - from 10 to 100 kilorubles.

You can also rent a tractor-mounted hole drill. This is provided that you can get close to the drilling site. There are modifications with a special long manipulator, which is very convenient. Such a hole drill drives up to the desired area, secures itself there, and immediately drills a whole bunch of holes within a radius of up to 8 meters. But I liked this option least of all, because I really wanted my own drill: I wanted it - I woke up at night and went to drill holes!

In general, I was almost ready to buy a Hitachi gas drill for my excavation work, but then fate gave me an amazing surprise in the person of my neighbor, who, out of the blue, started talking about his electric earth drill, which he didn’t know what to do with. The drill is electric earth drill, i.e. This drill is powered by mains. In addition, it has a built-in battery, which, however, does not last long, but still.