A blind area is a single continuous covering that encircles a house or other building along the perimeter. Arrangement of the blind area is one of the final stages of construction, i.e. it is done after the building is erected. If the developer has planned to finish the basement with plaster, tiles, brick or other material, the blind area is constructed after the complete completion of the mentioned event.
Helpful advice! All tasks associated with arranging the blind area must be completed before the cold weather arrives.
For the manufacture of the structure in question, a variety of materials can be used: paving stones, asphalt, tiles, etc. Most widespread among private developers received a concrete blind area. This material is characterized by a long service life, high performance characteristics and a relatively affordable cost.
Blind area around the house 
Concrete blind area 
Stone blind area 
Brick blind area
Many owners do not fully understand the importance of the blind area, considering it exclusively decorative element landscape. Along with this, such a coating performs a number of significant practical functions. After reading the information below, you will learn why a blind area is needed, what materials can be used to arrange it, and how to make such a covering on our own.
As noted, the decorative function of the blind area is one of the main ones, but far from the only one. You can find information about the purpose of the design in question in the following table.
Table. Functions of the blind area
| Functions | Explanations |
|---|---|
| Decorative | The blind area makes the overall appearance of the building more attractive, solid, thoughtful and complete. |
| Protective | A properly equipped blind area is a reliable barrier to melt water. The structural element does not allow moisture to come into contact with the supporting structure of the house, due to which the risk of foundation destruction will be significantly reduced. The structure is arranged so that waste and other waters are immediately discharged into sewer system or another suitable place, for which the required surface slope is set. |
| Thermal insulation | Few people pay attention to this moment, and in vain. The presence of a properly equipped blind area helps to significantly reduce the degree of freezing of the soil and, as a result, the foundation, and with it the entire structure. |
| Preventing soil heaving | As noted, the presence of a blind area allows you to reduce the degree of soil freezing. Along with this, soil swelling will also be noticeably reduced. This will ensure good protection of the foundation of the building from shifts in the ground, which will eliminate the risk of violating the integrity of the supporting structure and deteriorating its characteristics as a whole. |
Design features and requirements for the blind area
The design of the blind area includes 2 main layers. The first one is the underlying one. Its main function is to create a dense, reliable foundation for the overlying layer. The underlying layer can be made with or without a slope. To make this design ball, it is allowed to use crushed stone, gravel, and sand. The recommended thickness of the underlying layer is about 2 cm.
Sometimes the soil around the building is additionally treated with special chemicals - herbicides. The use of these prevents the growth of plant and grass roots in the future, thereby minimizing the risk of compromising the integrity of the supporting structure of the house.
The top layer is a coating that provides a decorative function and protects the foundation from water. Thickness – up to 100 mm. Asphalt, paving stones, concrete and other materials are used to make the top ball.
In addition to the above, the blind area includes other important layers. The structural features of the structure can be seen in the following image.
In order for the blind area to fully cope with the previously mentioned tasks, during its arrangement it is necessary to ensure compliance with a number of important requirements.
- Firstly, the width of the blind area must exceed that of the roof overhang. When arranging a site on sandy soil, it is recommended to make its width 25-30 cm larger than the cornice (the total width should be more than 60 cm). In most cases, the total width of the blind area does not exceed 80 cm, but when working on heaving type soils, this figure increases to an average of 100 cm.
Blind areas: a – clay-crushed stone; b – concrete; c – asphalt; g – cobblestone; 1 – compacted crushed stone 20 mm; 2 – clay; 3 – cement screed 15 mm; 5 - concrete preparation 100 mm; 5 – asphalt 15-20 mm; 6 – crushed stone 10 mm; 7 – cobblestone; 8 – sand preparation 50 mm
- Secondly, the blind area must be made with a slope in the direction of the site. The specific slope value is selected taking into account the characteristics of the finishing coating. For example, in the case of a concrete blind area, a 3-10 degree slope from the walls is made. The minimum acceptable slope, regardless of the material used, should be 1.5 degrees.
- Thirdly, the blind area must be continuous, encircling the entire perimeter of the building. It is strongly not recommended to make gaps - the overall quality of the design will significantly decrease.
- Fourthly, the blind area cannot be connected to the foundation - these systems are characterized by different degrees of settlement. In view of this, a minimum 1-1.2 cm expansion joint must be maintained between the supporting structure and the surrounding surface. It can be filled with bitumen, sealed with sealant, filled with geotextiles and similar materials, or covered with sand.
Types of blind areas and their purpose
Depending on the material of manufacture, design features, service life and a number of other indicators, all existing types of blind areas can be classified into 3 main groups. Information about them is presented in the table.
Table. Types of blind areas
| Group of blind areas | Description |
|---|---|
| This group includes monolithic structures made of concrete, asphalted blind areas, as well as coatings constructed using the pouring method (used cement mortar) on crushed stone with subsequent ironing of the fill. A monolithic structure, all other things being equal, will last no less than the building it surrounds. Significant disadvantage similar system is the high cost and complexity of the arrangement. This is also true for asphalt: the use of tar, which is a binding element, is advisable in financially exclusively when carrying out large-scale asphalt work on roads. Important! If insulation of the blind area is planned, a rigid system is the only possible option– it makes no sense to insulate soft and semi-rigid coatings. Additional disadvantages of rigid blind areas include their low decorative properties - a concrete or asphalt area can hardly be called very beautiful. |
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| The functions of the underlying layer here are performed by a multi-layer pillow, the top - paving slabs or paving stones. In addition to tiles and paving stones (the most popular options) can be used reinforced concrete slabs, cobblestone, porcelain stoneware, etc. Self-leveling coatings are relatively simple to install; they require much less labor and financial investments compared to monolithic systems, but are not suitable for use on heaving soils. |
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| A multi-layer cushion is installed, and a layer of crushed stone is poured on top. They are the least financially costly and labor-intensive. The disadvantage of soft blind areas is their low service life, averaging up to 7 years. Along with this, such a design can be used without any fear in any climatic regions, without paying attention to the type of soil. And it’s not difficult to disassemble a failed soft blind area in order to repair or replace it. Practice shows that to use soft blind area It is advisable to resort only as a temporary solution if you have problems with finances, time or labor resources - you are unlikely to like doing the same thing every 5-7 years. |
The most optimal type of coating in terms of the ratio of cost, quality and appearance indicators are semi-rigid blind areas. They last up to 20-30 years, are suitable for use in almost all climatic zones, with the exception of permafrost, are characterized by high maintainability and require relatively little resource expenditure for their arrangement.
An additional advantage of semi-rigid blind areas is the attractive appearance. For example, having made a covering of paving slabs, the owner has at his disposal a very beautiful area, no different from traditional garden paths. In this case, semi-rigid blind areas are installed in the same order - only the finishing coating material differs (usually paving stones or paving slabs).
Prices for paving slabs
paving slabs
The underlying layer (cushion) is made in the same order, regardless of the chosen type of blind area (the only exception is a monolithic concrete system; related issues will be discussed separately).
As you can see in the image, the pillow consists of soil, clay and sand. In the case of a soft crushed stone blind area, a layer of crushed stone is poured on top. If a semi-rigid blind area is being built, a layer of crushed stone and an additional layer of sand are poured over the cushion shown in the image, after which tiles/paving stones are laid. In the case of pouring a hard site, a sand and gravel cushion is installed, sand and gravel are poured, insulation is laid, reinforcement is performed and a number of other activities are carried out prior to pouring concrete mixture, which will be discussed separately in the corresponding section of the manual.
Sand cushion for the blind area 
Crushed stone pillow
The procedure for arranging the pillow is described in the table.
Table. DIY blind area pillow
| Work stage | Description |
|---|---|
| A trench is dug along the perimeter of the future blind area. The depth is determined by the type of soil. The minimum recommended value is 15-20 cm. When working on heaving soils, the depth should be increased to at least 30 cm. For greater ease of work, you can first make the markings, taking as a basis the recommendations from the article on arranging the foundation, or take the simplest route: Drive metal rods or wooden pegs into the ground in the corners of the future blind area; Drive in intermediate pegs; Stretch a mooring cord (or other similar rope) between the landmarks and dig in accordance with the prepared markings. At the same stage, you can set the previously mentioned gap between the foundation and the blind area, using any of the listed materials, for example, it is very convenient to work with damper tape and polyurethane sealant. Depending on the selected type of blind area, at the same stage you can set the required slope of the structure. To do this, it is enough to simply dig a trench to different depths at the inclination points. The bottom of the trench is carefully compacted. To do this, you can use an ordinary log: take it in a vertical position, lift it up, lower it down with force, and continue until all the earth is compacted. |
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| Drive intermediate pegs vertically evenly into the ground, if this was not done at the marking stage. At the same time, they will serve as supports for the formwork. Bars with a cross section of 2-3 (up to 5) cm will do - it doesn’t make sense anymore. Install supports in half-meter increments. The principle is demonstrated in the image. Armed with a level, mark the height of the formwork on the pegs. You will nail the boards according to the marks. |
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| For the construction of formwork, boards 3-4 cm thick are suitable. Select the height of the elements in accordance with the parameters of the blind area. For greater convenience, you can first mark the boards according to the height of the future layers that make up the pillow. The corners of the structure can be pulled together outside corners. It is preferable to use bolts to fasten elements together - such fasteners are easier to dismantle. Bolts with a diameter of up to 1 cm will be sufficient. Important! If you do not plan to dismantle the formwork in the future, pre-treat its wooden components with an antiseptic and wrap it in roofing felt or other insulating material - unprotected wood will soon begin to rot, which will not in the best possible way will affect the quality of the blind area. Note one. The image shows the reinforcement. We don't pay attention to it for now. Note two. The image shows the option with inclined supports. If you wish, you can give preference to this method - it is of fundamental importance this moment does not have. In general, you can do without such supports, ensuring the stability of the boards with the help of installed reverse side bricks/blocks. Important! The expansion joint is made not only at the junction of the blind area with the walls of the house, but also across the structure being built. Failure to comply with this recommendation will lead to extremely unfavorable consequences: as a result of soil heaving due to temperature changes, the blind area will crack over time. Transverse seams are arranged with an average 2-meter gap. To ensure the required clearances, install boards up to 2 cm thick at the specified spacing, as shown in the image. Important! All wooden elements structures must be soaked in antiseptic before use. If you plan to install a blind area that does not involve pouring concrete, you can easily do without formwork - it’s simply more convenient. |
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| Fill the trench with a 10-15 cm layer of sand (depending on the initial depth of the hole). If possible, use river sand small fraction. This layer of the pillow will take on the functions of waterproofing. The backfill is thoroughly compacted. You can use the same method as for compacting soil. For better compaction, soak the sand with water. Important! A thickness of 10-15 cm should be obtained after compaction, and not after the initial filling of the material. Crushed stone is covered with a 5-10 cm layer, again, depending on the initial depth of the trench. It is best to use sand of different grades so that the number of voids in the backfill is minimal. Instead of crushed stone, you can fill in gravel or broken bricks. This layer of cushion will ensure the removal of moisture penetrating through the sand from the overlying structures. Important note! If at the venue construction work If there is a high location of groundwater, be sure to lay geotextiles between the sand and crushed stone layers for additional waterproofing. Make small (in the conditions under consideration 5-10 cm is enough) overlaps on the walls of the formwork. Do not forget to maintain the specified surface slope (if provided) when filling with sand and crushed stone. |
The pillow is ready. The further procedure is determined by the characteristics of the type of blind area chosen by the developer. We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the instructions for arranging the most common variants of the design in question.
Soft crushed stone blind area
In fact, the pillow described above can be considered as a soft blind area made of crushed stone. To broaden your horizons, we invite you to familiarize yourself with an alternative option for arranging such a structure using additional waterproofing material.
First dig a trench and fill in a layer of sand, leveling it and setting the required slope, as in the instructions above, then follow the instructions below.
Table. Soft blind area
| Work stage | Description |
|---|---|
| A layer of waterproofing material is laid on top of the sand. Many developers use roofing felt, but we recommend giving preference to rubimast - it costs a little more, but lasts much longer. In the example under consideration, formwork with a width of 80 cm is installed. The width of the rubimast roll is 100 cm. To avoid cutting the material, simply bend the excess and glue it to the wall using molten bitumen or other suitable composition. |
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| A 10-centimeter layer of a mixture is poured on top of the waterproofing material, including an equal amount of sand and gravel/crushed stone. The backfill is carefully compacted and leveled in compliance with the specified slope. | |
| On top of the sand and gravel backfill, you can pour an additional 3-5 cm (or to the top) layer of crushed stone and compact it well - this way the blind area will definitely not sag while walking on it. |
The temporary soft crushed stone blind area is ready. If you wish, you can hide the formwork boards using decorative borders.
Prices for crushed stone
Basic information
As noted, the technology for arranging a blind area with finishing coat in the form of paving stones and tiles remains the same. The choice of specific material is up to the owner, but there are several important notes.
Thus, the use of paving stones is permissible only if the foundation has previously been waterproofed. Among the disadvantages of paving stones, one can note only the relatively high cost.
Tiles are one of the most popular materials widely used in arranging blind areas. This option has a number of significant advantages:
- tiles are much cheaper than concrete in the quantity required to fill the site;
- the material is presented in a huge range of size variations, colors and shapes, which allows you to get exactly the finishing option that the owner wants to see;
- You can lay the tiles yourself, spending relatively little time on it - you definitely won’t have to wait 3-4 weeks for the concrete to harden.
Prices for paving stones
paving stones
Which tile should I use?
When choosing tiles for a blind area, follow the tips below.
Advice one. To perform the work in question, tiles made using the vibration pressing method are best suited. By purchasing such material, you significantly reduce the risk of purchasing a fake, because It is impossible to produce this finish in artisanal conditions - serious, expensive industrial equipment is used to produce tiles of this group.
Vibro-cast tiles (the second popular variety) are relatively easy to make in an ordinary garage. It costs less, but the real quality of such products usually remains a mystery.
Tip two. Pre-prepare a plan for the future arrangement of tiles on paper or in a special computer program- this way you can choose the design you like best and make it easier for you to continue doing your work. If you wish, you can use one of ready-made options shown in the images.
Tip three. For paving the blind area, select tiles that will fit well with other paths and other areas with similar finishes located on the site.
Paving technology
You have already made a cushion for the blind area. Further work is performed in the sequence shown in the table.
Table. DIY tile blind area
| Work stage | Description |
|---|---|
| As you can see on one of the above images, cushion for blind area with paving tiled has additional top layer in the form of sand backfill. Place 8-10 cm of sand on top crushed stones. Recommendations in regarding leveling and material tamping is similar previously arranged layer. |
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| Proceed to paving the blind area. Lay the tiles from any convenient angle. Move away from you. Place elements according to the principle brickwork, i.e. with offset seams in nearby rows. You can choose a specific installation option from the illustrations suggested earlier or come up with it yourself. |
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| To ensure a tight fit of the tiles/paving stones to the base, a rubber mallet is used. Work with the tool is carried out in the following order: Tiles are laid; A wooden plank is placed on top of it; The performer carefully taps on the board, trying to press firmly enough, but gently, on the tile with a mallet through the mentioned spacer. Each tile is laid in this order. |
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| Using a level, check the evenness of the tiles in relation to each other and the ratio of the rows. Add sand under the sagging finishing elements, press down the protruding parts of the tiles with a mallet, following the above instructions, while simultaneously maintaining the required slope of the blind area. Pave the entire area in accordance with the given sequence. If there is a need to cut tiles, do it with a grinder. |
Important note! Many developers insist that a layer of cement screed be poured before laying paving stones/tiles. We recommend laying the finish directly on compacted sand - in this case, more efficient drainage of water through the gaps between the tiles will be ensured. In the case of arranging a cement fill, the permeability of the system will decrease, and this threatens the occurrence of ice during the cold season and all the accompanying troubles.
If, due to some circumstances, constructing a blind area without using a cement screed is not possible, after filling the layer of sand, do the following:
- prepare a mixture of 1 share of cement (from M400), 3 shares of sand (sifted, fine-grained, river) and clean water in an amount sufficient to obtain a homogeneous plastic solution of medium thickness;
- spread the solution over the surface of the area to be equipped using a trowel or any other suitable tool, then level it with a mop or a long straight slat (rule). The final thickness of the cement layer should be 30-40 mm.
After waiting for the cement to dry, proceed to laying the tiles. It is most convenient to use glue for this purpose, designed specifically for fixing the finishing materials in question. For the procedure for preparing and using the glue correctly, check the manufacturer's instructions - these points may differ for different compositions.
Some developers even accept the design with cement filling without subsequent finishing as a finished blind area.
This option is possible, but its appearance does not satisfy everyone. If desired, special coloring pigments can be added to the cement composition - the surface will take on a more attractive appearance.
Concrete blind area
An option for owners who are accustomed to doing everything thoroughly and for a long time. Having spent one time a relatively significant amount on arrangement concrete blind area, you will have at your disposal a durable, reliable and extremely durable design.
We will tell you about the procedure for arranging an insulated reinforced concrete blind area. The presence of a thermal insulation layer will have a beneficial effect on a number of key operational and technical characteristics of the foundation, plinth and the entire structure as a whole. If you wish, you can exclude the steps affecting the installation of insulation from the manual and use the same instructions, but it is strongly not recommended to abandon thermal insulation.
Insulated concrete blind area - photo of layers 
Concrete blind area - diagram
Ideally, the width of the insulated blind area should correspond to or exceed the soil freezing depth. In practice, the installation of such a design, firstly, will require very large financial investments, and secondly, it will take away the usable area of the site. In view of this, developers adhere to the “golden mean” of 700-900 mm.
Before starting work, you need to select a suitable thermal insulation material. In order for the choice to be as objective and correct as possible, it is necessary to take into account a number of significant points.
- Firstly, this is the ratio of the cost of insulation and its characteristics.
- Secondly, the operating conditions (in the ground, outdoors, i.e. the material should not rot).
- Thirdly, the climate at the location of the building.
Taking into account the above criteria, the most optimal material foam is used to insulate the blind area. Extruded polystyrene foam performs even better, but it costs more. For most regions of the Russian Federation, a 5-centimeter layer of insulation is sufficient. In particularly cold areas, this figure can be increased to 10 cm. In this case, it is better to install insulation in 2 layers.
The composition of the cushion for a concrete blind area remains similar to previous designs, but the sequence of actions undergoes certain changes.
First of all, you need to understand the nuances of lateral insulation of the structure. If there is no possibility of subsequent dismantling wooden formwork does not bother you (for example, subsequent decoration of visible structural elements with special borders or other suitable elements is planned), you can simply glue the insulation boards to the pre-assembled boards using binder, designed specifically for polystyrene foam materials.
Along with this, an alternative option is available: slate sheets are wrapped plastic film and go deep into the ground along the blind area. Even if such a structure remains visible after the event in question, it will be much easier to disguise it than wooden elements. This system looks like this:
Improvised formwork with heat-insulating material is installed along the entire length of the blind area. Bricks or building blocks can be used as supports, placing them on the ground on the back of the formwork. Will be shown in the following photos.
The polystyrene foam will already stand quite confidently on a pre-compacted base, while it will be supported by the materials poured further. To be more sure, you can bury the slabs a couple of centimeters into the ground or glue the insulation to the slate. It is not worth using mechanical fasteners - each hole in slate leads to a decrease in its strength, and in foam plastic - to the formation of cold bridges.
In this case, insulation can be used to make a damping layer between the base of the house and the blind area. With the help of a separating layer, you can ensure that the slope of the formwork is maintained: for this, it (the damper) must have a greater height in relation to the opposite wall.
By installing the side thermal insulation boards, make the pillow discussed earlier. Its composition will be the same as when arranging a blind area followed by paving with paving slabs.
Table. DIY concrete blind area
| Work stage | Description |
|---|---|
| In this case, it was decided to use two-layer thermal insulation made of ordinary polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam. First, a layer of foam is installed. The slabs are laid as closely as possible to each other. Bricks are used for temporary fixation. Having laid out the entire area with insulation, fill in the existing gaps polyurethane foam. Let it dry, cut off any excess with a sharp knife and proceed to laying the second insulating layer. In most cases, extruded polystyrene foam boards are equipped with end grooves, the presence of which eliminates the possibility of gaps occurring between elements laid next to each other. Important! Thermal insulation layers are laid with bandaged seams, i.e. the joints of the top row should be offset from the joints of the bottom row. If you need to trim the slabs, you can use an ordinary sharp knife for this. |
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| For reinforcement, you can buy a ready-made mesh or make it yourself from reinforcement with a diameter of 8-10 mm. The rods are assembled into a mesh with cells 150x150 mm and fastened at the intersections using binding wire (cheaper) or special clamps (faster and easier). The mesh must be laid indented from the base. To ensure this, special support clamps are used. If you don’t have a sufficient budget, you can get by with stones, broken bricks, etc. In this case, it will not be possible to provide a 5-centimeter offset as when pouring a foundation, because... this will lead to an inappropriate increase in the height of the blind area. Try to maintain at least a 5-10mm gap. |
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| Concrete is prepared according to a standard recipe: a proportion of cement of a grade not lower than M400 is mixed with 3 shares of sifted sand and 4-5 shares of gravel or crushed stone. Water is added in such an amount that the output is a plastic, homogeneous mass of normal thickness. Pouring the finished mortar is carried out in the same way as a cement-sand mixture, i.e. the composition is laid out on top of the base and leveled using a mop or other suitable device, for example, a rule - a long straight strip. In this case, the function of beacons will be taken over by the side walls of the formwork. After pouring, pierce the concrete with a reinforcing bar in several places to release excess air, fill the resulting depressions with mortar, sprinkle the surface with a thin layer of dry cement and leave the structure to gain strength. According to GOST, this requires 28 days. To protect the structure from precipitation, cover it with plastic film. Periodically (every 1-2 days) lift the film, spill the concrete with a small amount of water and cover it back - this will allow it to react maximum amount cement, which will ensure a higher final quality of the concrete structure. |
Helpful advice! Before pouring the concrete mixture, cover the parts of the insulation protruding above the ground fiberglass mesh. To attach it to the foam, ordinary PVA glue is suitable. The presence of a mesh will protect the insulation from possible damage.
In this case, it was decided to abandon the intermediate transverse damper partitions made of boards (described earlier). The structure is insulated in 2 layers and on the sides, as a result of which the thermal insulation simultaneously takes on the function of dampers, and it is better not to tear the reinforcement - the strength will decrease.
Prices for concrete mix
concrete mixture
Drainage issues
To ensure effective removal of precipitation, the blind area is equipped with a drainage system. The design is elementary in its execution:
- an asbestos-cement pipe with a diameter of 10 cm or more is cut lengthwise into 2 parts. A grinder is suitable for cutting;
- the resulting pipe halves are laid along the perimeter of the blind area close to it;
- In the corners of the blind area at the junction of the pipes mentioned above, solid drainage systems are placed. The same asbestos-cement pipes will do. Trenches are dug to accommodate them. Select the dimensions of the pit so that there is at least 5 cm of free space on the sides and top of the pipe. First fill the bottom of the trench with a 5-centimeter layer of sand and compact it. The pipes themselves are wrapped in geotextile and directed towards the structure for collection. Wastewater. The specific option depends on the individual characteristics of the site arrangement.
The described drainage looks like this.
To improve the appearance of a concrete blind area, it can be tiled or decorated with other material of the owner’s choice.
Good luck!
Video - DIY blind area
The blind area around the house is a special structure that is designed to remove precipitation and protect the foundation from premature destruction. Also, a blind area is necessary in conditions of heaving soil or in areas with high level groundwater, which can undermine the foundation. Let's take a closer look at how the blind area is done with your own hands, as well as which options for its implementation are most effective.
In addition to protecting the foundation, the blind area also performs practical and design features. Very often it is used as a path, so it must have sufficient hardness and abrasion resistance. When choosing a blind area, you should also take into account the landscape design and exterior of the house. Correct blind area around the house helps to highlight architectural style buildings, make local area more accurate and practical.
The pouring of the blind area can be carried out simultaneously with the construction of the foundation. However, it can be made after finishing finishing works. If you neglect this point, over time, cracks may appear in the foundation, and the thermal insulation performance of the structure will decrease. Thus, the role of the blind area at home should not be underestimated. This is one of the main stages of building a house, which directly affects the quality of the structure. 
Construction of a blind area around the house
Before you start building a blind area with your own hands, you need to decide on the materials from which it will be made. Most often, concrete, asphalt, bricks, wood, reinforced concrete slabs or tiles are used for these purposes. The correct blind area around the house must have at least two layers. The top layer contains the main coating, and the bottom is a cushion of sand, small crushed stone, grit or clay.
Ideally, the installation of a blind area around the house should be carried out simultaneously with the foundation. The width of the blind area should be about 80 - 100 cm or 20 - 30 cm more than the cornice. The wider the blind area, the faster the water drains. In this case, you should remember the slope, which should be 3 – 7ᵒС. A small drainage groove can be made along the perimeter of the blind area. This will prevent water from stagnating during heavy rainfalls or when snow melts. 
How to make a blind area with your own hands
Making a blind area with your own hands is quite easy. The construction process does not require special knowledge and is carried out in several stages:
- Preparing the base.
Installing a blind area with your own hands begins with leveling the surface, removing plant roots, removing the top layer of soil with a shovel and treating the soil with herbicides. It is necessary to install boundary boards around the perimeter and make a sand cushion. To do this, a layer of sand is poured onto the prepared surface, compacted and filled with water. Next, a layer of crushed stone or broken brick is poured.
- Waterproofing and insulation.
Insulating the blind area allows you to increase the thermal insulation of the foundation, which is especially important if the house has a cellar or ground floor. Polystyrene, foam glass or penoplex can be used as insulation. Air gap between the concrete layer and the ground can reach 15 cm. The blind area is waterproofed using PVC film, bitumen or roofing felt. 
- Installation of temperature cuts.
Temperature cuts can be made using storm drains or flat slate. It is necessary to leave an expansion joint between the wall and the blind area by placing roofing material, sealant or bitumen in it.
- Pouring concrete.
Concrete for a blind area can be made by combining 0.5 shares of water, 1 share of cement, 3 shares of sand and 4 shares of crushed stone. It is better to take grade M-300 cement. Filling is carried out carefully within the boundary boards.
- Ironing.
15 - 20 minutes after pouring the solution, the surface is sprinkled with dry cement and smoothed with a spatula. Thanks to this technique, the blind area is stronger, smoother and more moisture-resistant.
The installation of a blind area around the house can be made from concrete slabs. As in the first option, the base is prepared for this, after which the finished slabs are laid out and bitumen is poured. also in Lately Profiled membranes are becoming increasingly popular, which are placed directly on the ground, covered with crushed stone and sand, after which any covering is installed.
Alternative options for home blind area
The most popular option in our country is a concrete blind area 15 cm thick. If previously this type of blind area was the most affordable, nowadays a wide variety of building materials, insulation materials and waterproofing films, with the help of which cost of blind area around the house can be significantly reduced. Let's look at a few alternative options installing a blind area with your own hands.
Soft blind area for difficult soils
Soft blind area is one of the most simple options blind area devices, which can be used for heaving soils. It is performed in several stages.
Blind area with rubemast
Rubemast is an inexpensive waterproofing material made on the basis of fiberglass or fiberglass with bitumen impregnation. With the help of rubemast you can build a high-quality blind area, adhering to next plan actions:
Geotextile blind area to protect against weeds
Installation of a blind area made of geotextiles is carried out in several stages:
Construction of a blind area in Finnish
This type of blind area is widely used in the construction of Finnish houses. It is radically different from the technologies familiar in our area and is carried out according to the following principle:
- A corrugated pipe with holes is laid around the perimeter of the house.
- Gravel is poured over the pipe, overlapping foam is installed and covered with soil.
- Next, the pipe is connected to drain wells.
- Crushed stone and decorative pebbles are poured at a distance of about 40 cm from the walls of the building.
The Finnish blind area is quite effective, drains water well and prevents freezing of the foundation.
Russian blind area - cheap and cheerful
This version of the blind area is very unusual and was invented by Russian craftsmen. It is performed using glass bottles in several stages:
- It is poured onto a small sand cushion thin layer concrete.
- Next, the usual glass bottles, and the next layer of concrete is poured.
- After this, reinforcement is performed, and the next layer of concrete blind area is poured. If necessary, the surface is subjected to ironing, i.e. sprinkled with dry cement.
The advantage of this technique is the absence expansion joints and low concrete consumption. In addition, the bottles are left air gap in the blind area, increasing its thermal insulation without additional insulation.
In general, there are quite a lot of options for making a blind area around the house. If desired, you can do it different heights, decorate with natural or artificial stone, tiles, cover with pebbles or crushed stone. 
Video Blind area device
There is a popular story about formwork devices and blind area pouring.
An integral part of any building is a waterproof coating, which is located around the entire perimeter of the house and is closely adjacent to the base. What the parameters should be: slope, height and width of the blind area around the house depends on many factors - the perimeter of the building, the height of the walls and many others. So that the blind area correctly performs its functions. Therefore, such important work should be performed exclusively by a construction company. A professional approach, taking into account all possible nuances in the work process and knowledge of technology ensure that the building will be reliably protected from the adverse effects of a humid environment.
A properly made blind area can protect the foundation of a house from destruction for a long time.
What is a concrete blind area and how to make it around the house
The blind area is horizontal stripe of different widths, which is part of a set of measures to create a house drainage system. Design features Such a structure consists of creating a high-quality multi-layer “pie” consisting of:
Dense base (substrate) - lower underlying layer of clay, sand.
Drainage layer of pebbles, crushed stone, gravel, coarse sand.
Waterproofing made from modern film material.
Thermal insulation layer, which prevents freezing and swelling of the soil near the foundation.
A concrete top covering that performs protective and decorative functions. The covering layer prevents water from penetrating to the foundation, basement, or basement.
Thanks to the smooth concrete strip, the building acquires a neat and finished appearance. For correct and high-quality implementation, strict adherence is required building codes and rules.
Before starting work, preliminary calculations, which allows you to accurately determine what should be: the width, slope and depth of the blind area around the house. SNiP is a regulatory document that describes general aspects of creating a foundation and landscaping the area near a building. The construction documentation indicates permissible deviations according to the main parameters of the basement covering.
Requirements for the blind area and design rules
Work on improving the drainage path is carried out at the final stage of construction, after it has already been done exterior decoration walls and basement. The parameters of the blind area (width, thickness and slope) directly depend on two factors: the characteristics of the soil on the site and the length of the eaves overhangs.
Width
So, what are the standards for the width of the blind area around the house? If the soil has good bearing capacity and is not subject to deformation, then you can save on materials and make a blind area 60 cm wide, but no less. In areas with poor soil, this figure can reach 200 cm. When choosing the width and depth of the blind area, it is necessary to take into account the length of the overhang of the cornice, from which a retreat towards the soil is made of at least 20 cm. This is necessary so that the flowing water does not seep under foundation.
Diagram of how wide the blind area around the house should be
On our website you can find contacts construction companies who offer foundation construction and repair services. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.
Thickness
The calculation method also determines the thickness of the different layers. In practice, the height for each material has standards and is carried out in the following parameters:
sand cushion is from 10 to 15 cm;
crushed stone layer – from 6 to 9.cm;
the thickness of the concrete blind area around the house varies from 7 to 12 cm (there is no point in doing more, since there are no loads on the surface);
made of reinforced concrete – 10 cm;
from asphalt concrete - 5 cm.
The thickness of the bottom layer should not exceed 20 cm. Before laying it, the plant layer must be removed along with the soil. The sand cushion under the path is formed on a solid clay base, which is well compacted.
Angle of inclination and ironing
The slope of the path should start from the foundation so that water drains and is absorbed into the soil. What should this indicator be? According to SNiP, it varies depending on the width of the path and the type of material used:
made of cobblestone or crushed stone, the angle of inclination should be 5-10% of the width. For example, with a strip size of 100 cm, the slope is 5-10 degrees.
from concrete or asphalt, the standard indicators are 3-5%.
It is important! Do not make the blind area too shallow. The greater the angle of inclination, the better the water is removed from the base and foundation, due to which the walls of the building are not destroyed and the service life is increased.
Protection of concrete blind area from destruction
The construction of a blind area around a concrete house ensures that the structure fits tightly to the basement of the building. If there are the slightest cracks, the tightness of the coating is broken, as a result of which water penetrates into the foundation of the house. To prevent destruction of the concrete layer due to temperature changes, expansion joints must be created. According to SNiP, they are located in increments of 170 to 200 cm, as well as at the corners of the path. Expansion joints perform the function of separating elements between sections that are independent of each other during tension and subsidence.
To make expansion joints, laminated plywood is used, which is cut into strips equal to the width of the blind area and 10 cm thick. Instead of plywood, they can be used wooden slats 2-3 cm thick. Before installation, the surface of the slats is covered with bitumen mastic or waste oil, which protects the wood from rotting.
You can prevent the destruction of the concrete layer using internal waterproofing. This technology for constructing a blind area involves the use of rolled or coating materials that create an additional layer under concrete screed. Simultaneously waterproofing materials protect the wall from getting wet. It is very important to comply with all requirements when working with roll and coating materials.
Most effective technique Strengthening the concrete coating is ironing, which is carried out in 2 ways:
The surface of freshly laid concrete is covered with dry cement M300 or M400, after which grouting is performed. Polishing is carried out on hardened concrete. The strength and durability of the coating depends on the selected brand of cement. The principle works here: the higher, the better.
A liquid cement mortar is applied to concrete that has been laid for 2-3 weeks, and then smoothed.
Thanks to the blind area insulation technology, it is created additional protection from soil freezing both for the foundation and for the basement path. A special thermal insulation material is located between the bottom and top layers.
With strict adherence to regulatory requirements, the service life of the house increases, comfortable conditions for accommodation. Otherwise, the house path will not perform the function of draining water from the foundation. It must be taken into account that the use of a thermal protection method increases the width of the blind area.
Blind area using TISE technology
When constructing TISE foundations, a blind area is required. The savings with this technology are significant: none drainage system, there is also no need to insulate the base strip and the fence. Such activities bring virtually no benefit, but only lead to additional costs.
The finishing of the lower part of the building with the TISE foundation is carried out in several ways:
the base is concreted;
basement part sheathed with siding, natural or artificial stone.
The main task of creating a blind area for the TISE foundation is to choose the right sheet material for pick up. The sheets must have good moisture resistance and ensure the sliding of the blind area that rises in winter without destroying the lining of the base.
PSP boards are best suited ( cement bonded particle boards), slate sheets, porcelain tiles (preferably used) and any other moisture-resistant material. Rising together with the blind area and sliding along the grillage, the structure will close the gap between the grillage and the ground. The plinth path along the upper level can be a couple of centimeters above the lower edge of the grillage or rise higher (depending on the topography of the area and the height of the plinth).
Materials for making blind areas
In addition to concrete, other materials can be used for the manufacture of plinth paths. Construction Materials:
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porcelain stoneware;
asphalt concrete;
paving stones and others.
On a note! Which material to choose directly depends on the characteristics of the soil, the structure itself, and the wishes of the owner. Working with each coating has its own characteristics and requires compliance with building codes and regulations.
Video description
For a clear overview of the blind area and its characteristics, see the following video:
To summarize - when should you do a blind area at home?
Summarizing the above, it is quite clear why you need to make a blind area around the building. The plinth walkway must be installed in accordance with SNiP and has the following functions:
protection from moisture and soil swelling;
thermal insulation;
improvement of aesthetic indicators;
numerous decorative solutions.
Conclusion
In addition to protecting the foundation, the blind area serves as a regular path. Its outer edge must be framed and can be connected to both the lawn and the ground. A wide framing strip with a tall building looks harmonious.Any homeowner (bathhouses, garages and other buildings are also considered) really wants his building to require repairs as little as possible. And the first concern is the safety of the foundation. To do this, it is important not only to plan and build correctly, but also to drain water - groundwater and precipitation. The drainage system handles the removal of groundwater, and sediments are removed using a blind area. This equipment does not have the most complicated design: a blind area of any type is easy to make with your own hands. There is not a lot of work and costs, but it solves several problems.
Functions and tasks
We have long been accustomed to the fact that there should be a path around the house: it gives the entire layout a finished look. Especially if combined with the finishing materials used to decorate the building. In addition, it is practical: you can walk along the path. And the fact that the path is a blind area, and its main purpose is to drain water, is a successful combination of the properties and qualities of materials and a well-thought-out design.
The main function of the foundation blind area is to remove sediment from it
If you look at it from a utilitarian point of view, the blind area drains rain and melt water from the foundation. The second very important practical task that can be solved with its help is to insulate the foundation. If you put insulation under the walkway, it will protect the house from freezing, which will greatly reduce heating costs.
When should a blind area be done? Immediately after finishing the external walls, but before finishing the basement. Why is that? Because a compensation gap must be left between the finishing of the blind area and the wall of the house. This is an excellent path for water that flows down the wall of the house (falls on the walls during slanting rain, for example). But it is impossible not to make this gap - the foundation will collapse. It is also unrealistic to seal the gap hermetically. The solution is to make sure that water does not get into the gap in any case. This can only be achieved if the base trim hangs over the seam. Then the water will flow a few centimeters further from the seam, and then fall into the drainage grooves. This can only be done if you first organize the blind area and then finish the base.
Why do you need a foundation blind area, when to do it, we figured it out, now it remains to understand how to do it correctly.
Blind area dimensions
It is necessary to remove sediment from the foundation along the entire perimeter. That’s why a protective belt is made around the house. The width of the blind area is determined depending on the type of soil on the site and the length of the eaves overhang. In general, it should be 20 cm wider than the roof overhang. But SNiP sets minimum standards: on normal soils the width of the blind area is at least 60 cm, on subsidence soils - at least 100 cm.
The width of the blind area of the house is at least 60 cm on normal soils and at least 100 cm on subsiding soils
Also in the manual for SNiP 2.02.01-83 there is paragraph 3.182. There are the following instructions:
Blind areas around the perimeter of buildings must be prepared from local compacted soil with a thickness of at least 0.15 m. Blind areas should be arranged with a slope in the transverse direction of at least 0.03. The edge mark of the blind area must exceed the planning mark by at least 0.05 m. Water falling on the blind area must flow freely into the storm drainage network or trays.
From this passage it is clear that the depth depends on the technology chosen, but cannot be less than 15 cm.
Device technology
Any blind area consists of an underlying layer and a protective coating.
Backfill: what materials to use
The purpose of the underlying layer is to create a level base for laying the protective coating. Its thickness is about 20 cm. Sand and crushed stone are often used for these purposes, but native soil or clay can also be used.
Sand and crushed stone are used on well-draining soils. In this case, sand is first laid, spilled and compacted. Then there is a layer of crushed stone, which is also compacted.
If the soil on the site is clay or loam, then it is better to use native soil. If, with such soils, crushed stone or sand is laid around the foundation, then water will certainly be present near the house. Because it turns out that the density of the soil outside the underlying layer will be higher. This will cause water to accumulate under the blind area. If, with this design, a drainage pipe is laid around the perimeter of the bedding, the problem will be solved. And it’s effective. But there will be more work, and the cost of the blind area with drainage will be higher.
Types of protective coating
The covering for the blind area must meet many requirements:
- should not allow water to pass through;
- must be frost-resistant;
- have increased abrasion resistance;
- should not be destroyed by water.
This could be paving slabs or paving stones. The shape and color can be very different - choose based on general design territory, houses of nearby buildings. The thickness of these materials is at least 6 cm; only in this case will they withstand harsh operating conditions.
You can use slabs or tiles made from natural or artificial stone, you can lay out the paths with large pebbles or pour crushed stones on top of all layers.
There is another type that is becoming increasingly popular - this is a soft blind area. It has few layers but works effectively. There may not be any hard or waterproofing layer on top: you can pour soil and plant grass or flowers. An interesting solution for a summer house or country cottage.
All these options are not bad, but the cost of their arrangement is quite high. If there is a need or desire to do it cheaply and cheerfully, your choice is a concrete blind area. There will be a lot of work, but the total cost is low.
General principles
Depending on the soil on the site and the purpose of the building, different materials and layer structure can be used, but there are some points that are always present:
How to make a blind area at home with your own hands
First, markings are made along the perimeter of the building using pegs and laces. The following is the order of work:
- Removed vegetation layer and some soil. The depth of the trench depends on the size of the underlying layer and the thickness of the protective coating. Usually - 25-30 cm.
- The bottom is treated with herbicides. This is necessary to prevent plants from growing in this area. They are able to destroy even concrete and asphalt, and they grow instantly between tiles or paving stones.
- The bottom of the trench is leveled, forming the required slope and compacted.
- The underlying layer is laid and compacted, maintaining the slope. It is advisable to compact everything using a vibrating platform. Manual tamping is ineffective. Density is especially important when laying concrete, but it is advisable to compact it well under tiles or paving stones: it will not collapse or warp.
- Stacked protective covering.
- A drainage groove is formed.
It's very short and sketchy. Each coating has its own characteristics, and each needs to be discussed separately.
Concrete blind area around the house
The most widespread covering is concrete. It turns out to be the most inexpensive. Traditionally, the underlying layer consists of poured compacted sand (10 cm) sand, on top of which compacted crushed stone (10 cm) is laid. As already mentioned above, this scheme works normally on well-draining soils.
If there is clay or loam around the house, make the underlying layer from native soil. To reduce the effect of heaving and avoid cracking, pour 10 cm of sand on top of the compacted soil, and then lay concrete on it. This way the concrete will crack less, but you will not get rid of cracking completely: especially in regions with harsh winters. In such conditions, it is better to make a blind area from crushed stone or pebbles - there will be no problems with cracking. If funds allow, they make it from tiles. For harsh winters, with correctly selected layers of substrate, they stand well.
In general, on heaving soils it is advisable to make drainage that will drain the water flowing from the tape. This will be an effective and reliable solution. All the rest are just half measures. Drain pipe positioned so that water from the coating gets into it.
Rules for concreting a blind area
Formwork is installed and secured along the perimeter of the marked area. Most often, the board is of sufficient height, secured with pegs and spacers.
To reduce surface cracking, reinforcement is often used. To do this, a mesh of steel wire with a cell size of 10-25 cm is laid out on the finished underlying layer.
Wooden planks treated with antiseptics are laid on top of the mesh (if there is one). The thickness of the planks is 2.5 cm, and they can be treated with hot drying oil. These strips are damper joints that will prevent the concrete from cracking when temperatures change.
The planks are set while maintaining the slope from the house. The rule is then “pulled” along them, leveling the solution.
To make the surface strong and smooth, ironing is carried out. Almost immediately after pouring, while cement laitance is still on the surface, the concrete is sprinkled with cement (can be crushed several times) and rubbed with a trowel or plaster float. A thin but strong, smooth and slightly shiny surface is formed on top. It is very resistant to abrasion.
The last stage is concrete care. The path is covered with a damp cloth. During the week, it is regularly moistened (sprayed from a hose or watering can). The fabric should remain damp. To avoid hassle with watering, you can cover it with film, but it is more difficult to keep it in one place.
Concrete for blind area
For the blind area, standard sand and gravel concrete is used. Darkness is preferably at least M150. It can be higher: the higher the grade, the more durable the protective coating will be. The proportions for preparing the solution for the blind area can be selected from the table. They are given for concrete grade M400 - not very expensive, the characteristics are normal.
Insulated blind area
It only makes sense to install an insulated blind area in a heated house. In buildings for seasonal residence, in which above-zero temperatures are not maintained in winter, this makes no sense. The meaning of adding a double layer of insulation:
If the insulated blind area of the house is laid at the design stage, then one more reason is added: if this detail is present, reduction factors are applied in the calculation. That is, the foundation has a lower height, and therefore less cost.
An option for installing an insulated concrete blind area with a drainage system is demonstrated in the video. Everything is described normally, they just didn’t specify what to do if the layer of loose soil is more than 40 cm, which is required for the blind area. In this case, it must be filled with soil having a density higher than that located on the site. If there is clay on the site, then only that can be used. If it is loam, you can take either clay or loam.
One point: lay the clay not in a dry state, but diluted to a paste. The technology is old, but nothing better has been invented yet. It is laid out in layers, trying to avoid the formation of air pockets - water will certainly stagnate in them (or someone will settle).
Blind area made of crushed stone or pebbles
This is one of the types of soft blind area. It's easy to do it yourself. This system is used if there is a drainage system or the soil drains water well, and there is no clay or loam under the plant layer.
The order of work is as follows. A layer is laid in a dug trench on a leveled and compacted bottom. This material is not thick, but very elastic. It will prevent crushed stone or pebbles from being pressed into the ground. And the path will not sag. Crushed stone is poured on top and compacted. Layer thickness 10-15 cm, fraction 10-80 mm. All.
If desired, the gravel blind area can also be insulated. Then 50 mm thick EPS (extruded polystyrene foam) is laid in a trench on compacted and leveled soil, a high-density geomembrane is laid on top, and pebbles or crushed stone can be placed on top of it. But it is not advisable to walk along such a path.
Do-it-yourself blind area made of tiles or paving stones
There are several device options, but the most optimal and versatile are “pies” using geotextiles.
For example, one of them is shown in the figure. It can be used to construct a blind area on heaving soils with harsh winters. Note:
It is advisable to use geomembranes as waterproofing. They are made from high density polyethylene. By brand: you can take Tefond, Isostud, Fundalin, TechnoNIKOL Planter Standart, etc. They cost around 150-250 rubles/m2.
Geotextiles available different brands and different densities, with different functional purpose. Choose based on the geology of the site. Their price is from 15 to 50 rubles/m2.
When constructing a blind area with your own hands, the main thing is to make sure that the water leaves the foundation and does not collect in the sand or crushed stone layer near the house. What will definitely happen if the soil is heaving (clay or loam), the underlying layer is made of sand and crushed stone, and there is no drainage.
Long-term operation of the house depends not only on a strong and reliable foundation, but also on the blind area. Thanks to it, the base structure is protected from destruction, and in addition, it protects the soil around the house from moisture. If water accumulates around the house, which can happen when snow melts and heavy rains, this can lead to erosion of the top layer of soil, as a result of which moisture reaches the foundation.
If it seeps deep into the earth to the base of the foundation, this will lead to damage to the base and its strength will significantly decrease, which will negatively affect the bearing capacity foundation. As a result, there may be a threat of destruction of the structure.
Some construction industry experts express the opinion that when arranging a drainage system, there is no need to install a blind area near the house. However, this opinion is deeply erroneous. The gutter protects the area near the foundation from water that drains from the roof. But it does not protect against precipitation, which regularly moistens the ground.
The role of the blind area is especially great in cases where it was used to build a house. shallow foundation. Its sole is located very close to the surface of the earth. Therefore, during heavy rainfall, water can quickly reach the base of the foundation. Under the influence of moisture, the sole erodes, it loses his profile and uneven subsidence occurs. The consequence of this is that deformation processes occur and subsequent destruction of the foundation occurs. However, even if a well-buried foundation is used, it is impossible to do without a blind area.
How to properly arrange a blind area around the house?
When the owner understands the need to create a blind area near his house, then, having learned that the reliability of the structure and its long service life depend on it, the main desire that arises in him is to make it serve for a long time. This can be achieved if you use high-quality materials during construction, and in addition strictly follow construction technology.
The first thing to do is determine the width of the coverage. Protecting the foundation from moisture is its main purpose. Therefore, the width should be maximum. The further the path is located from the house, the less moisture it will absorb, and, therefore, the less risk of destruction of the foundation of the house.
Based on existing building codes, the minimum width of the protective coating should be at least 0.8 m. There are no standards regarding the maximum width of the blind area. Here everything largely depends on the desires of the developer.
The main function that the blind area performs is to protect the foundation of the house from moisture. In addition, it is used as a path around the perimeter of the house. You should also pay attention to this when choosing it. If you make a path that is too narrow, then when walking along it a person will experience some discomfort, since he will have to move along it sideways or press against the wall. Based on all this, we can say that optimal width the tracks are one that varies ranging from 1 to 2.5 m.
When constructing a blind area, you need to think about its inclination. It is thanks to it that the water falling on the blind area will constantly drain away from the walls of the house. In Soviet times, standards determined the slope value in the range from 50 to 100 mm per 1 meter of width. This means that for a path that is 1 m wide, the height at the walls of the house will vary from 50 to 100 mm, and at the other edge it will be flush with the ground. Such steep descent paths will ensure optimal water drainage from the house.
Slope of the blind area
Water, once on the blind area, will quickly drain, creating inconvenience. If the slope is less, this will lead to water flowing slowly from the surface. In addition, walking on it will not be very comfortable. A compromise in terms of comfort and efficiency of the slope at the track can be considered slope 15 mm per 1 m width blind areas. When this covering has such a slope, then when walking on it a person does not experience any discomfort, and water does not retain on the surface. It completely flows down.
Basically, in order to ensure effective removal water from the surface of the path, a slope of 10 mm per 1 meter will be sufficient, provided that the surface of the path is smooth and level. However, there is also a drawback to a blind area with such a slope. The whole point is that in winter time walking on it is not comfortable enough as it becomes slippery.
If the owner decides to make a protective coating not near the house, but along the perimeter of the garage, then its slope line at the entrance should be up to 30 mm per 1 meter. This will provide the greatest protection to the surface from rainwater, which will drain quickly enough. This will protect your garage from puddles and ice.
How to properly make this protective coating is one of the important questions that arises when a person decides to build a blind area near his home. Its quality largely depends on the material chosen for its creation. There are several options for making a track, which involve the use of different materials. However, most often it is made of reinforced concrete.
In most cases, owners when creating a track use the following technology:
- the first step is to clean the site on which the blind area will be created;
- then they take metal rods with a cross-section of 6 mm and lay them in a mesh with cells whose size is 0.3x0.3 m. Knitted wire is used to connect them together;
- after this, formwork is created, which is made from unedged boards;
- the next step is pouring the formwork with prepared concrete;
- You should know that before you start making a blind area, you need to create a foundation. To do this, you need to remove the top layer of soil to a depth of about 13 cm along the perimeter of the width of the future blind area. A little more should be removed near the walls of the base. In this case, the poured concrete will flow towards the house, slightly squeezing it. There is no need to create additional fastening of the blind area;
- after this, it is necessary to mark the boundaries of the building’s blind area, hammer in the pegs, and then tighten the cord;
- A layer of sand should be poured onto the bottom of the trench, the thickness of which should be 5 cm. The sand cushion will act as a base for the concrete. Backfilling with sand need not be done if the area is dominated by sandy soil. It is necessary to mount the formwork on the cushion, and then lay out the reinforcing mesh. Only after this the concrete is poured. The location of the reinforcement is of great importance. It must be completely embedded in a concrete base. And to do this it needs to be slightly raised;
- for cooking concrete mortar M400 grade cement is used. In addition to this, sand and crushed stone are used. These components are taken in a ratio of 1:2:4-5.
Some specialists use ash to create a path. This material is a product of coal combustion in a thermal power plant. However, care must be taken when handling it as this particular material may be radioactive. If you create a blind area from it, the health of the people living in the house can significantly deteriorate.
Features of the blind area around the house
Creating a blind area, any or any other task in construction industry, has its own nuances that you need to know about before starting work.
The construction of the blind area should not be started immediately after the completion of the construction of the basement. Chernozem or clay is used when backfilling a trench. The soil will subside in any case. But this takes some time. If you start constructing a blind area without waiting for the soil to subsidence, then when moisture gets into the soil it will sag, which will lead to the following:
- the surface of the blind area is deformed;
- cracks may appear on it.
To avoid this phenomenon, backfilling must be performed. You can use sand, which easily allows water to pass through. It will quickly sag and within a day you can begin work on constructing the blind area.
To create a blind area around the house, it is undesirable to use porcelain tiles. It has a smooth surface and is quite slippery. When the surface of such a coating is wet, there is a high risk of injury. In addition, the service life of such a blind area will be short. The tiles are laid on a concrete surface. And when low temperatures it bursts, which leads to cracks.
Protection of the blind area
The main function performed by the blind area is to protect the foundation of the home. However, it would not be superfluous to protect the blind area around the house from water flowing from the roof getting on its surface. To do this, you need to think about creating an organized drainage system, which must be located along the entire perimeter of the roof. In this case, first the water must fall into gutters, and only then flow down the pipe. Of course, it will not be possible to completely get rid of water, but less of it will reach the surface, which will reduce the load on the surface of the blind area.
According to previously existing standards, a drainage system was required to be installed on buildings that had more than two floors. Currently, this system is used in every new house, regardless of how many floors it has.
In some cases, specialists carry out work on additional insulation blind areas around the house to minimize soil freezing in winter.
Most often used as insulation expanded clay is used, which is used instead of crushed stone in concrete mortar.
There is another way to insulate the blind area. It is poured in two layers, between which the insulation is laid. Foam plastic is often used as such.
How to make a blind area around the house?
Based on the information above, you can draw the following conclusions:
Conclusion
Every owner who has built a house dreams that his home will last for decades. This depends on the reliability and strength of the foundation and its protection from moisture, which is its main enemy. If the foundation of your home has waterproofing layer
, this does not mean that it is well protected from moisture.
Frequent precipitation can lead to moisture penetration deep into the ground and destruction of the sole. The consequence of this will be deformation of the base and its gradual destruction. And this will negatively affect the reliability and service life of the structure. Therefore, it is necessary to build a blind area around the house to protect the foundation.
It’s not that difficult to make, so every building owner can handle it on their own. The most important thing is that you need to use high-quality materials and strictly follow the technology for creating the blind area. Then you can ensure reliability for your mansion and there will be no doubt about its long service.
