Brick partitions in the bathhouse are almost always made. After all, this is not flammable material and it is customary to use it in combustion rooms. For internal partitions, hollow brick is usually chosen; it has much higher thermal insulation, this indicator is quite important for these structures.

Today we will look at how a partition in a brick bath is made and what needs to be taken into account. You can also get Additional information in the video in this article and photo.

Installation of brick partitions in baths

A brick partition in a bathhouse is made in many cases. It is better if this is done at the construction stage, but it is quite possible to do it with a finished frame.

You can choose the width at your discretion, but since there is no need for sound insulation, it is enough to put it in one brick. Pay enough attention to ensure that the masonry mixture is of high quality and moisture resistant.

Attention: If your partition borders on the steam room, then you need to pay the greatest attention to the finishing material. There must be high heat and vapor barrier.

So:

• If you need to connect a partition with load-bearing wall, then use reinforcement, it will need to be driven in every 4-5 rows.
• Brick partition in wooden bath are also often used. This will be needed to create maximum conditions fire safety, the stove is lined with stone if it needs to be heated from the dressing room. In order not to disturb the overall decor of the wooden bathhouse, you can lay out a partition decorative stone or combine it with a heater stove.
• In some cases, it is possible to partially partition the furnace and line it with bricks.

Attention: The partition in the bathhouse must be installed after it has completely settled down. At the same time, the material used to make the bathhouse itself does not matter.

The price of masonry today is quite high, but if you do everything yourself, then it will not be significant. Below are instructions on the rules for conducting work.

Preparatory work

Before starting work, place the brick in an accessible location near the masonry site. The work area should be well lit and cleared of extra items. Mark the outline where you plan to install the partition.

So:

• The brick partition in the bathhouse should be rigid. If your floor is concrete and can withstand the load, then you can do the masonry directly on the floor.
• If the floor does not hold up, then it will be necessary to make a foundation for the masonry.
• Before preparing the solution, be sure to sift the sand to remove debris, pebbles, etc. To do this, you need to build a sieve by attaching a fine mesh to four wooden blocks.
• Prepare a special container in which you will mix the solution. For this purpose, you can use an unnecessary metal barrel, cutting it in half. Place the barrel firmly on level ground.
• Use the following proportions for the solution - 1:3, for example: 2 buckets of cement, 6 buckets of sand. After pouring them into the prepared container, gradually add water there and mix well with a shovel. The resulting solution will be enough for one hour of continuous operation.
• The consistency of the solution will be similar to sour cream. It is important to remember that after you prepare the solution, it will gradually harden and shrink. But you should not add water to it. It is enough to mix the solution with a shovel every 10-15 minutes.
• Prepare your tools necessary to perform this work: a rule, a pick, a trowel, a plumb line and a level.

Masonry process

Before starting work, you need to prepare the floor and walls. The surface of the walls is cleaned with a wet broom, and everything from the floor must be removed down to the foundation. Now you can get to work.

Attention: You must immediately apply waterproofing to the concrete. This must be done.

So:

• Pull the rope evenly; you need to use it to guide you when laying the first row. First lay out one row of mortar, level it with a trowel, and leave it for a short time so that it has time to set.
• After this, put another layer of mortar, this time thinner, and lay out the first row of bricks. Check horizontality using a level.
• Place mortar on the end of the outermost brick with a trowel, and lay it on top of the mortar row, pressing it firmly against the wall. To align with the rope, you can tap the edges of the brick. If there is excess solution, it can be removed with a trowel.
• If you have a planned opening for the door, then you need to set it in advance. Install the box using spacers, do not forget to periodically check the horizontal and vertical positions using a level.
• The brick must be laid tightly to the door frame. The brick partition needs to be screwed to the door frame or wall using thin strips of metal.
• To start the second row you need half a brick. You can break a whole brick in half using a pick. Do not forget to move the rope limiting the horizontal one row up. Next row you will need to start with a whole brick.

Thus, you will do the dressing of the masonry, this is important and required condition. In order for the masonry to be stable and strong, it is necessary to distribute the load evenly. This is exactly what dressing can provide.

• To create greater strength of the partition, you need to place reinforcement between the seams every 5 rows.
• For additional reinforcement door frame use a durable channel, choosing it according to size.
• If at the very end of the masonry you have a gap under the ceiling, then fill it with small fragments of brick, first moistening them in the solution. Smaller cracks can be filled with tow.

To make your bathhouse beautiful, often check the horizontal and vertical position of the masonry using a plumb line. You shouldn’t just focus on the doorway, so that the two parts of your partition don’t end up in different planes.

Important points

The brick partition is laid out. Pay attention to the basic before and after recommendations.

If you decide to plaster the partition, then:

• For its laying it is permissible to use different bricks, can be used;
• During the work itself, you should not spend a lot of time and effort on the quality of the seams.

If the brick partition is design solution, That:

• Lay the rows with extreme care. For correctness, you need to check the horizontality using building level. Then you won't have any configuration problems;
• Remove excess solution in a timely manner, or add as needed;
• It is better to straighten the seams immediately, while the solution is fresh. For convenience, you can use jointing.

You may need to make holes in the partition for communications. Prepare a piece of pipe of the required size in advance, insert it in the planned location and cover it with brick. You should not fix the pipe with a solution; it is better to use polyurethane foam for this.

At the end of all work, be sure to thoroughly rinse the tools used.

Waterproofing measures

Prepare the surface for waterproofing. To do this, remove old finishing, clean brickwork from dirt.

1. Level the surface by applying water or a layer of primer.
2. Apply two layers of liquid rubber, which will reliably protect the desired surface from moisture penetration. Advantages liquid rubber the fact that it is not only elastic, but also highly durable. This will protect it from damage due to possible settlement of the foundation and the appearance of cracks.
3. The second option could be roll waterproofing. It also has high strength and reliability. But installing it is quite difficult.
4. One of the most common roll waterproofing materials is roofing felt. It is fairly inexpensive, not difficult to work with, and reliably protects against moisture for a fairly long period. If you heat treat roofing material, it will easily take the required shape.
5. But this material also has its disadvantages: when working with it, you will definitely need an assistant, and the joints will have to be processed very scrupulously. Ruberoid is quite fragile, try to protect it from mechanical damage.
6. It is advisable to use roofing felt as a waterproofing material on small areas.

Today there is a fairly wide range of products on sale. waterproofing materials new generation. They are produced using innovative technologies, therefore they are more reliable, durable and cope better with the tasks assigned to them.

You already know what kind of brick to make a partition in a bathhouse from and how to provide for everything. The most important thing is to take your time and not forget about waterproofing.

Partition between the steam room and the relaxation room- a special place in which the most powerful elements of the bath are collected: steam, fire, temperature and cold in winter. How can these opposite actions be made friends? Find golden mean you can know all the features of the design of partitions for cutting furnace fireboxes. They will be discussed in this review.

Making a partition between the steam room and the relaxation room

The whole article makes sense only when using factory steel furnaces V wooden log houses. There is no need to talk about bathhouses with brick walls or steam rooms with massive brick kilns. Everything is simple here: take more, heat it longer and wait until it warms up slowly. But in the case of high-speed sauna stoves or Russian bath stoves with steam generators - partition between the steam room and the room acquires special properties. Many stove manufacturers declare 30-40 minutes until they are ready for bath procedures. Yes, all this is possible in a perfectly insulated steam room. In this case, we need a thin wall, a minimum of convection, a reflective screen and a non-flammable layer with low thermal conductivity.

One of ideal options is a partition in a steam room made from the following sandwich:

from the steam room to the adjacent room - a sheet of polished stainless steel, a sheet of asbestos cardboard 1-2 cm of basalt wool, an asbestos sheet (analogue), decor.

Stones will immediately fly at me because of the attempt to use asbestos-cement sheets. The main thing is calm! Production is considered harmful, not use! A sheet closed on all sides does not evaporate, is not ventilated, and does not smell. It is necessary to cut carefully, observing safety regulations.

This is a lyrical digression for those who like to make it easier and cheaper. Of course, you can also use expanded vermiculite and look for airgel and other “nanotechnology products”.
A hard and rigid asbestos-cement sheet can be covered with porcelain stoneware or tiles.

For builders with financial capabilities and reluctance to experiment exist partitions for wooden baths made in a factory. They are also called heat shields. They thought through everything and decided for us, and they did it beautifully. Thermal insulation and cutting on the side of the steam room and a self-cooling surface with modern design from the side of the room with the firebox, unpacked and installed - quickly, cleanly and correctly.

Brick wall in the steam room

Here it is! - you think about a brick partition between the steam room and the relaxation room. Safe, like a mausoleum, it doesn’t burn, doesn’t rot, doesn’t smell, bugs don’t wear it down. The forums are filled with comments on how to make this partition from fireclay bricks, how to decorate it with tiles, etc. This whole conversation about thermal insulation needs to be clarified and sorted out:

Recipe for preparing mortar for laying brick partitions between the steam room and the room recreation: Clay-sand - proportion 1 to 1 (fine sand). Some people use this mixture for laying stoves. The clay is soaked in water for 2-3 days, stirred with a mixer until it becomes sour cream, sand and a little cement are added (up to 5% of the volume of the entire mixture).

Using cotton wool in steam room partitions

When using a sandwich with basalt wool inside as a partition between a steam room, you must first ensure that the cotton wool has the opportunity to dry after completing the bath procedure for the following reasons:

1. any insulation will get wet, because... V unheated room the air always has humidity equal to the humidity outside;
2. basalt wool is a hygroscopic material (moisture absorber)
3. Condensation will always form in the cotton wool
4. drying of basalt wool in a confined space occurs much slower than its dampening
5. consequences - bad smell, decreased thermal insulation properties, swelling of cotton wool.

Mineral wool for the partition on the steam room side is not the best the best option. It is preferable to use stone wool (basalt). Mineral light-fluffy fillers tend to release odors at high temperatures. And, believe me, these smells are not the healthiest. The heat shield or partition must not emit odors until high temperature. The surface of a steel vented stove (most produced) reaches up to 400 degrees on the casing!

Whatever you are going to use to make a partition in the steam room of a bathhouse, one thing is mandatory - good ventilation sandwich insides and compliance with fire regulations and ruptures. And this is how it was done.

In private households, the bathhouse is the place where water treatments and treatment sessions, this room can even be used for economic needs. In it you can install, for example, washing machine, which will free up space in the house. And it’s better to separate the rest room from the steam room. Therefore, in this article we will tell you how to make a partition in a bath between the steam room and the sink with your own hands. There are several ways to do this.

From wooden beams and boards

In the case when the bathhouse is built from natural wood or materials based on it, in order not to violate the general concept of the building, it is better to make wooden partitions. For these purposes you can use wooden beam and boards, 4–5 cm thick. The section of the timber should be chosen from 5x5 cm, so that the partition is not just a screen, but also has its own functional use. You can also attach a shelf to such a partition and equip it with hooks for placing basins and brooms. The process of making such a partition with your own hands is as follows:

• First you need to make markings. On the walls and ceiling, using a plumb line and a tapping cord, mark vertical lines indicating the middle of the thickness of the partition.
• After this, you need to mount the partition frame from timber. It is best to fasten individual frame elements to the walls and to each other using wooden spikes, drilling holes for them with a drill with a drill of the appropriate diameter. If for some reason such a connection cannot be made, then you can use simple wood screws or special nails without heads. It is worth remembering that the distance between adjacent frame beams is recommended to be maintained at about 70–80 cm.
• When the frame is ready, it can be sheathed with boards, nailing them with the same nails without heads. You can also use wooden lining for these purposes.
• Thus, the frame is sheathed on both sides, and the result is internal partition good quality and sufficient strength. It is worth saying that to achieve better thermal insulation rooms, the space between the skins can be filled mineral wool. This will keep the heat in the steam room longer, and the dressing room will be relatively cool.

Note! Firstly, the frame beams must be treated with special antiseptic solutions, and secondly, for finishing For such a partition it is best to use boards and lining made of wood hardwood, for example, linden or aspen. Conifers contain resins, which is not very good, because when heated they can cause burns.

The above-described method of constructing a partition is more appropriate in a wooden bathhouse, but if similar work must be carried out in a brick bathhouse, then it is best to make the partition from bricks. The manufacturing process is best done in stages:

• First you need to make markings. In this case, you need to mark the boundaries of the future wall.
• When the markings are ready, you can begin the main work. First you need to prepare necessary materials, in this case a brick, and also prepare a mortar. To do this, in a ratio of 1/3, you need to mix cement of a grade not lower than M-500 and sifted sand, diluting the mixture with water until a uniform consistency is obtained.
• Along a pre-marked line on the floor, it is necessary to apply a layer of mortar with a trowel, the width corresponding to the width of the masonry brick. After which the first row of the partition is laid.
• After laying the first row of masonry, it is covered on top with a new layer of mortar, on which the second row is laid.
• All other rows of the wall must be laid in the same way. In order to lay a brick over a doorway, during the construction process a strip of metal is laid over the opening, equal in size to the width of the wall and at least 1 cm thick. The first row of bricks over the opening is laid using this strip as a support.

Note! After carrying out the work, the solution must be allowed to dry thoroughly, which will take up to a week. The result will be a fairly strong wall.

We will talk about a frame partition in a bathhouse made of log house separating the dressing room and the washing compartment. The choice in favor of these rooms was made so that it could be shown how to make a partition with your own hands between such seemingly different bath rooms in their functionality.

The wooden partition, which will be discussed in this article, is wooden frame, insulated with mineral wool and covered with clapboard.

Considering that the washing compartment has insulated and reinforced concrete screed 150 mm thick, then a concrete curb 125 mm wide and 100 mm high is made to install the base of the frame. In addition, a concrete curb will allow you to lay ceramic tiles along the partition, isolating wood paneling walls from water.

A concrete border can be made both during the pouring of the screed and during the installation of the partition, using a homemade wooden formwork. To better bond the concrete being poured to the floor, its surface should be treated deep soil and betocontact, for example, from the company Knauf.

The vertical posts of the frame are made of planed bars: the internal ones are 50x100 mm, and the outer and doorway– 60x100 mm. The horizontal tie bars (top and bottom) have a cross-section of 60x100 mm. All jumpers are made of 50x100 mm timber.

The base is attached to the concrete curb using 16 mm anchors. The outer posts are installed in the groove in and secured to it with 8x90 mm hex screws. To ensure that the frame does not interfere with the settlement of the log house, oval longitudinal grooves are made in the racks. This will allow the screws to slide along with the wall and not create unnecessary stress on the frame, and with it on the entire partition.

The top tie bar does not reach the ceiling by 30 mm. This gap serves to compensate for settlement or expansion of the log house as a result of atmospheric phenomena and the change of seasons. The groove in the wall is cut to the full height, starting from the floor in the dressing room and ending with the ceiling.

Mineral (basalt) wool 100 mm thick, for example “Rockwool”, is used as insulation. Some frame cells have dimensions of 600x1200 mm, which corresponds to standard sizes produced cotton wool. The wool is closed and secured with a stapler on both sides of the frame with a plastic film, which prevents moisture from penetrating into the wool, thereby preserving all its heat-insulating, sound-absorbing properties.

The eurolining is fastened with clamps on a lathing made of 25x50 mm planks. The sheathing itself is mounted on top polyethylene film and is attached to the frame with wood screws. The direction of laying the lining is from the very corner of the partition using the tongue-and-groove method, and not vice versa. On the dressing room side, the lowest lath of the sheathing is additionally secured to the floor, and in the washing compartment it is placed on a concrete curb and attached only to the vertical posts of the frame.

The final finishing of the partition is done after installing the door frame. First, skirting boards are installed, which at one end are inserted into the groove of the wall. Then the edges of the partition are closed with a board (platband), which are also inserted into the same grooves.

The upper casing is attached directly to the ceiling with the condition that it will move freely with it during the process of settling the log house, without affecting the partition itself. The gap between the ceiling and the top of the partition is sealed with cotton wool or other heat-insulating material.

Connections wooden elements are made using galvanized wood screws. Open parts are also secured with self-tapping screws. To prevent the screw heads from being visible, you can pre-drill a stepped hole, and after screwing in the self-tapping screw, close it with a wooden dowel (pin) of the same diameter.

On the washroom side, the bottom of the wall is finished with ceramic tiles, and then the lining is placed on it end-to-end. A strip (plinth) is attached to the bottom of the lining along the entire partition to the frame posts, which covers both the lining and part of the tile.

The procedure for constructing a frame partition with your own hands

Perhaps I shouldn’t have described the design of a wooden partition in such detail, but started right away with the order of work for its installation. However, what is done cannot be returned. And whoever is not interested in this can immediately go to this section of the article, using it at the beginning.

Preparation of concrete base and log walls

Installation of a wooden partition frame

Note: at this stage of work it is necessary Special attention pay attention to the accuracy of the alignment of the frame frame, as this will affect the quality of the entire interior wall. Verticals, horizontals, flatness, dimensions - all this will affect what kind of partition we get.

Insulation and installation of sheathing on the frame

Note: the film can be placed under the base of the frame already at the stage of its installation. Then the issue of securing it in the lower part will be immediately resolved.

Installing a door frame into a partition opening

Ceramic tiling in the washroom

This operation can be performed both before and after clapboard covering. The main thing is that the junction of the forcing and the end of the ceramic tile should be made accurately and without gaps. As for laying tiles on the floor, this can be done at any time.

Sheathing with clapboard on sheathing

You need to start from the very corner. The lining is sheathed using the “tenon and groove” method. That is, the last fixed element must have an open groove. Each subsequent element is inserted with a tenon into the groove of the previously fixed lining, and with the help of metal clamps ( mounting bracket) is fixed to the sheathing. The last lining is cut under right size and secured with self-tapping screws. You can see details on how to attach the lining.

Installation of platbands, baseboards and sealing of partition edges

Finally

This version of the wooden partition design is intended for a log bathhouse, which has stood for the required time and has completely settled. The compensation gap (30 mm) between the partition and the ceiling is designed only for changes in the size of the frame under the influence of atmospheric influences and weather conditions.

If there is a need to build a partition in the bathhouse before the log house has completely settled, then this gap should be increased to 60-80 mm.

From the outside washing department The sheathing of the frame can be made of waterproof plasterboard. In this case wooden sheathing should be replaced metal profile. Such a partition can be easily tiled with ceramic tiles and easily installed there.

It should be remembered that the cut grooves in log walls reduce their strength. Moreover, the deeper and wider the groove, the less strength the wall is. To protect the logs from rolling out (deformation), you should already tie the logs at the site of the proposed partition at the stage of wall construction wooden dowels, as a rule, with a diameter of 30 mm. You can read how to do this in the article about.

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If you bought a bathhouse project or drew it yourself with your own hands, then most likely you thought about the layout of the rooms (layout). The number of partitions, of course, depends on the number of rooms. There are at least two of them in the bathhouse: a steam room and a washing room. Partitions can be made immediately during the construction of the log frame from the same material as the walls (timber, logs, brick). But you need to keep in mind that such a partition requires a foundation the same as for the main walls, which in turn will lead to a significant increase in the cost of the bathhouse. The process of erecting such a partition is no different from erecting walls.
After construction, such partitions must be well caulked for better noise and heat insulation, and openings can be cut only after the entire frame has settled. If a rounded log or laminated veneer lumber is used to build a partition, then such a wall does not require additional interior finishing.

The easiest and most inexpensive way to make partitions in a bathhouse with your own hands is to use frame technology construction. To do this, you need to purchase bars 50 by 100 mm, for the frame itself, insulation based on stone-mineral wool, vapor barrier and the actual finishing material, such as lining. Before installing the partition, the floors in the bathhouse must already be done. We mark the location of the wall on the floor and fasten to the floor with long screws (102 mm) or nails (120 mm) the bottom block on which the vertical bars will rest.
We nail or screw a vertical post to the wall level on one and the other side of the wall, leaving a gap of five centimeters at the top for the top bar. We place the top beam on the vertical bars and fasten it to ceiling beams self-tapping screws. In this way, in the future, when installing the following vertical racks, we don’t have to constantly monitor the verticality of the wall, but simply attach the racks to the upper and lower beams. Now we mount the vertical beams of the door opening and fasten them with galvanized corners. The following vertical beams must be placed at a distance of one centimeter less than the width of the insulation for a tighter fit. Standard insulation has dimensions of 60 cm by 100 cm, which means that the distance between the beams must be 59 cm. A larger distance between the beams should not be made, as this will reduce the strength of the partition. Vertical beams can be attached to the top beam using galvanized metal corners or using 150 mm nails. To avoid cracking of the timber when fastening it with a screw or nail, it must be drilled with a drill with a diameter equal to the diameter of the fastener (screw or nail). After installing the frame, we tightly stretch the vapor barrier on one side of the wall and make a lathing for installing lining or other finishing material, such as drywall. For sheathing, lining sawn lengthwise or sawn lengthwise is suitable edged board. A width of five centimeters is quite enough for a sheathing bar. Now you can lay the insulation, in this case 10 cm thick, or in two layers of 5 cm, but in this case it is necessary to cover the joints. When laying insulation in a bathhouse with your own hands, you must use the following products: personal protection and use a respirator. We cover the insulation with a vapor barrier and make a sheathing. You should not use oilcloth or cellophane instead of a vapor barrier, as this can lead to the insulation getting wet from condensation that will form in the bathhouse due to temperature changes. The side of the partition that is in the washing room can be sheathed moisture-resistant plasterboard and put ceramic tiles or mosaics on it. On the steam room side, the partition must be sheathed with clapboard not made of coniferous species wood, as it contains a lot of resin. To decorate a steam room in a bathhouse, lining made of linden or abasha is suitable.
For a rest room, a regular pine lining or a House block is suitable. Sometimes the walls in the steam room are additionally covered with foil material, but this is only necessary for longer heat retention. If you caulk well and insulate the outside of the bathhouse yourself, with your own hands, then the heat will not go anywhere for a long time, and the wood will “breathe” better.

It is better to make part of the partition in the bathhouse near the stove out of brick.
To do this you need to fill concrete base, which you can do with your own hands wooden beams. A wall thickness of half a brick will be sufficient. When laying bricks, you need to pay attention to the vertical and horizontal lines of the wall. Completely do brick walls It’s not worth it in a wooden bathhouse. This is a high cost of material and such a wall requires a full-fledged foundation.

Wooden partitions easily accommodate all necessary communications: electrical wiring, water pipes. Partitions in a wooden bath should be made of natural material, such as a tree.