Today, numerous manufacturers of solid fuel heating equipment offer us a wide range of metal furnaces and boilers, which is replenished from year to year with more and more new models. But despite all their advantages, owners of non-gasified houses still have the honor of an ordinary brick stove - this is evidenced by numerous reviews on thematic forums. What is the reason for the truly popular love for this unit? Our article will not only answer this question, but will also introduce the reader to various types of furnaces and construction technology brick type with your own hands.

Advantages and disadvantages of a brick stove in the house

So, let's try to understand why an ancient heating device is often preferable to its modern high-tech counterparts. There are several reasons:

• The stove body is an excellent heat accumulator: Thanks to this property, a brick stove has to be heated much less often than a conventional steel or even cast iron one. Some varieties retain heat for up to 24 hours, while firewood needs to be added to the firebox of a metal stove every 4–6 hours.
• The ability to accumulate heat makes a brick stove more economical and less harmful to the environment than its metal “substitutes”. The fuel in it burns in an optimal mode - with the greatest heat transfer and almost complete decomposition of organic molecules into water and carbon dioxide. The excess heat generated in this case is absorbed by the brickwork and then gradually transferred to the room.
• The outer surface of the oven does not heat up to a high temperature.

Due to this, the thermal radiation generated by this unit is softer than that of hot steel stoves. In addition, upon contact with hot metal, the dust contained in the air burns, releasing harmful volatile substances (this can be recognized by the characteristic unpleasant smell). Of course, you can’t get poisoned by them, but they certainly cause harm to your health.

• A brick oven (this does not apply to stone ovens) emits steam when heated, and when it cools, it absorbs it again. This process is called furnace breathing. Thanks to it, the relative humidity of the heated air always remains at a comfortable level - within 40–60%. When operating any other heating device that is not equipped with a humidifier, the relative humidity in the room decreases, that is, the air becomes dry.

A steel stove has nowhere to put excess heat, so it has to be either heated frequently, adding small portions of fuel, or operated in smoldering mode. In the latter case, the operating time on one load of fuel increases, but it burns with incomplete heat transfer and with a large amount of carbon monoxide and other substances harmful to the environment - the so-called. heavy hydrocarbon radicals.

It is not difficult to verify this: a brick stove produces noticeable dark smoke only during kindling, while black smoke constantly pours out of the chimney of a steel stove in which the fuel is smoldering. Metal solid fuel long-burning heaters (full-fledged, and not so-called gas generator stoves that only imitate gas generation) do not have this drawback. But they are very expensive, they have complex design and need electricity, which a brick kiln can easily do without.

What can be opposed to all of the above? A brick oven takes a long time to warm up a cooled room. Therefore, homeowners are recommended to acquire an additional steel convector, which will heat the air in a forced mode while the stove is heating.

It should also be taken into account that a brick oven is a rather massive structure that must be built together with the house. And ideally this should be done experienced master, which still needs to be found.

Application of brick kilns

The scope of use of stoves is not limited to their main functions - heating and cooking. Here are some other tasks this unit can solve:

1. Smoking meat and fish.
2. Melting of scrap metal (cupola furnace).
3. Hardening and cementing of metal parts (muffle furnaces).
4. Firing ceramic products.
5. Heating blanks in a forge workshop.
6. Maintaining the required temperature and humidity conditions in the bath.

But in poultry houses, greenhouses, greenhouses and livestock farms it is not recommended to build a brick oven: here it will have to breathe putrefactive fumes, which will lead to rapid deterioration.

Types of structures

The above diagram may vary in different furnaces. The most common options are Dutch, Swedish, Russian and bell-shaped.

Dutch

This scheme is called channel serial. Such a stove is very simple to manufacture and its design can easily be adjusted to any room, but its maximum efficiency is only 40%.

Swedish unit

Very good option heating and cooking stove.

A very successful option for a heating and cooking stove. Its design is called a chamber design. The chamber, the walls of which are washed by hot flue gases, is used as an oven. The duct convector is located behind the stove and occupies the entire space from floor to ceiling. This scheme has a number of advantages:

• Efficiency at 60%;
• in the oven on the side you can install a heat exchanger to heat water, which will be stored in a storage tank on the roof of the oven;
• gases enter the convector relatively cold (they burn out in the chamber part), so for its construction you can use building bricks and ordinary cement-sand mortar;
• a convector with this shape heats the room to its entire height as evenly as possible;
• near the Swedish oven you can quickly warm up and dry yourself if you open the oven door.

Furnaces of this type are difficult to manufacture and require very quality materials and need a foundation.

Bell furnace

Self-regulating scheme: flue gases enter the chimney only after complete combustion under the hood.

This mechanism provides an efficiency of over 70%, but this furnace is quite complex to manufacture (the design involves high loads). Yes, and it can only be used for heating.

Russian stove-bed

The design of a Russian stove, like an English fireplace, is called flow-through. It does not have a convector.

The design of a Russian stove, like an English fireplace, is called flow-through. It does not have a convector. The owner of a Russian stove benefits from the following:

• Efficiency reaches 80%;
• the building has an interesting appearance;
• such dishes of ours become available for preparation national cuisine, which cannot be cooked except in a Russian oven.

You can fold a Russian stove yourself if you strictly follow the drawings. The slightest deviations can ruin the design.

General structure of the furnace, drawing

The design of the furnace is not particularly complex.

In the brick mass there is a chamber with a door in which fuel burns - a firebox (in the figure - positions 8 and 9). In its lower part there is a grate (item 7), on which fuel is placed and through which air enters the firebox. Under the grate there is another chamber, called an ash pan or ash pit, which is also closed by a door (positions 4 and 6). Through this door, air from outside enters the oven and through it, the ash that has fallen into it is removed from the ash pan.

Through the hole at the rear wall, the flue gases enter the hailo (pos. 11) - an inclined channel directed towards the front wall. The hailo ends with a narrowing - a nozzle. Next comes a U-shaped channel, called a gas convector (item 16).

The walls of the gas convector heat the air moving through a special channel inside the furnace. This channel is called an air convector (pos. 14). At its exit there is a door (pos. 18), which is closed in the summer.

The chimney contains the following elements:

• cleaning door (item 12): the smoke exhaust duct is cleaned through it;
• valve for adjusting the combustion mode (item 15);
• view (pos. 17): also a valve, by means of which, after kindling, when all carbon monoxide has already evaporated, the chimney is closed in order to retain heat.

The thermal insulation surrounding the chimney at the intersection of the attic floor and the roof is called cutting (pos. 23). At the intersection of the ceiling, the chimney walls are made thicker. This widening is called fluffing (pos. 21), it is also considered cutting.

After crossing the roof chimney has another widening - otter (position 24). It prevents rain moisture from penetrating into the gap between the roof and the chimney.

Other positions:

• 1 and 2 - foundation with thermal and waterproofing;
• 3 - legs or trenches: for a stove with such elements it is required less bricks, besides, it has an additional heating surface from below;
• 5 - the beginning of a special air channel (vent), through which uniform heating of the room along the height is achieved;
• 10 - combustion chamber;
• 13 - bend of the air convector, called overflow or pass;
• 20 - furnace roof;
• 22 - attic floor.

Preparation for construction

Necessary materials, selection

When constructing a furnace, the following types of bricks are used:

1. Construction ceramic brick (red). They are laid out in the lowest rows - the so-called flood part (indicated in the diagram by oblique shading), as well as that part of the chimney in which temperatures below 80 degrees are observed.
2. Kiln ceramic brick. Also red, but compared to construction grade it is of a higher quality (brand - M150) and can withstand higher temperatures - up to 800 degrees. Externally, they can be distinguished by size: the dimensions of the stove are 230x114x40(65) mm, while those of the construction one are 250x125x65 mm. The fire (furnace) part of the furnace is laid out with stove bricks; in the diagram it is indicated by checkered shading.
3. Fireclay brick. The firebox is lined with this material from the inside. It can withstand temperatures up to 1600 degrees, but its advantages are not limited to this. Fireclay brick combines high heat capacity (it is a very “capacious” heat accumulator) and equally high thermal conductivity.

Note! Facing brick in this case it cannot be used.

Due to the high thermal conductivity, it is impossible to lay out the fire part with fireclay bricks alone - the oven will heat up too much and cool down very quickly due to intense thermal radiation. Therefore, the outer surface must be laid out stove brick at least half a brick.

The dimensions of fireclay bricks are the same as those of stove bricks. It is often recommended to determine its quality by color depth, but this method is only valid for those products for which the clay was mined in one place. If we compare fireclay clay from different deposits, the color does not always provide an objective characteristic: dark material may well be inferior in quality to light yellow.

A more reliable indicator of quality is the absence of pores and foreign particles visible to the eye, as well as a fine-grained structure (in the picture, a high-quality sample is on the left). When tapped with a metal object, a high-quality fireclay brick should produce a loud and clear sound, and when dropped from a certain height, it breaks into large pieces. A low-quality one will respond with dull sounds when tapped, and when dropped, it will crumble into many small fragments.

Also, during the construction of the furnace, the following solutions are used:

1. Cement-sand: those parts of the furnace that consist of ordinary building bricks are laid on ordinary cement-sand mortar.
2. High-quality cement-sand: this solution, consisting of mountain sand and Portland cement grade M400 and higher, is used if the furnace is supposed to be fired irregularly. The fact is that a dried clay solution, if not heated sufficiently, can become saturated with moisture and become limp again. That is why, in areas with temperatures below 200–250 degrees (in the diagram - oblique shading with filling), instead of clay, a high-quality cement-sand mortar based on mountain sand is used. We emphasize that this should be done only if the stove will often be idle during the cold season.
3. Clay solution. This solution also requires mountain sand. It is characterized by the absence of organic residues, due to which the seams would quickly crumble. But now it is not necessary to buy expensive mountain sand: excellent quality solutions are obtained using sand from ground ceramic or fireclay bricks.
4. High-quality clay is more expensive than sand, so they try to minimize its amount in the solution.

To determine the smallest required amount of this material, subject to the use of sand from ground bricks, proceed as follows:

• the clay is soaked for 24 hours, then mixed with water until it looks like plasticine or thick dough;
• dividing the clay into portions, prepare 5 variants of the solution: with the addition of 10% sand, 25, 50, 75 and 100% (by volume);
• after drying for 4 hours, each portion of the solution is rolled into a cylinder 30 cm long and 10–15 mm in diameter. Each cylinder must be wound around a blank with a diameter of 50 mm.

Let's analyze the result: a solution without cracks or with small cracks in the very surface layer is suitable for any task; with a crack depth of 1–2 mm, the solution is considered suitable for masonry at a temperature of no more than 300 degrees; For deeper cracks, the solution is considered unsuitable.

Tool

In addition to the standard set of tools for masonry work, which includes:

• trowel;
• hammer-pick;
• grooves for seams;
• shovel for mortar.

The stove maker must have an ordering rack. It has a cross-section of 5x5 cm, staples for fastening at the seams and marks corresponding to the position of individual rows. By installing 4 rows in the corners, it will be easy to ensure the verticality of the masonry and the equality of the width of the seams between the rows.

Calculation of a simple heating device

The method for calculating a furnace is extremely complex and requires a lot of experience, but there is a simplified version proposed by I.V. Kuznetsov. It demonstrates a fairly accurate result, provided that the outside of the house is well insulated. For 1 m2 of furnace surface area, the following heat transfer values ​​are accepted:

• under normal conditions: 0.5 kW;
• in severe frosts, when the stove is heated especially intensively (no more than 2 weeks): 0.76 kW.

Thus, a furnace with a height of 2.5 m and dimensions in plan of 1.5x1.5 m, having a surface area of ​​17.5 m 2, will generate 8.5 kW in normal mode, and 13.3 kW of heat in intensive mode. This performance will be sufficient for a house with an area of ​​80–100 m2.

The calculation of the firebox is also very complicated, but today there is no need for it. Rather than designing and manufacturing a homemade firebox, it is better to purchase a ready-made one in a store: it is already designed according to all the rules and will cost less.

When choosing a firebox, consider the following:

1. The size of the firebox and the location of the fasteners must correspond to the standard size of the brick used.
2. For a stove that is used from time to time, you can purchase a welded sheet steel firebox; for constant use you need to buy only a cast iron firebox.
3. The depth of the ash pit (the lower narrowing of the firebox) should be one third of the height of the combustion chamber if the furnace will be fired with coal or peat most of the time, and one fifth if the main fuel is wood or pellets.

The cross-section of chimneys that meet standard requirements (straight vertical stroke, height of the head above the grate - from 4 to 12 m) is selected according to the recommendations specified in SNiP, depending on the power of the furnace:

• with heat transfer up to 3.5 kW: 140x140 mm;
• from 3.5 to 5.2 kW: 140x200 mm;
• from 5.2 to 7.2 kW: 140x270 mm;
• from 7.2 to 10.5 kW: 200x200 mm;
• from 10.5 to 14 kW: 200x270 mm.

It is impossible to accurately calculate the power of the stove, so sometimes there may be a discrepancy between the accepted cross-section of the chimney and the performance of the unit - the stove begins to smoke. In this case, it is enough to simply increase the height of the chimney by 0.25–0.5 m.

Empirical formulas have been developed to determine the number of bricks, but they give an error of up to 15%. The only way to make an accurate calculation manually is to simply count the bricks in order, which will only take about an hour. More modern version- simulate the oven in one of the computer programs designed for this. The system itself will draw up a specification, which will indicate the exact number of whole bricks, as well as cut, shaped, etc.

Choosing a location, scheme

The method of installing the stove depends on the size of the house and the location of various rooms in it. Here is an option for a small country house:

In the cold season, such a stove will efficiently heat the entire building, and in the summer, with the window open, you can cook quite comfortably on it.

IN big house with permanent residence, the stove can be positioned as follows:

In this version, the fireplace stove installed in the living room is equipped with a purchased cast iron firebox with a door made of heat-resistant glass.

And thus a brick stove can be installed in an economy class home:

When considering the location of the furnace, you need to consider the following:

1. A structure containing more than 500 bricks must have own foundation, which cannot be part of the foundation of the house.
2. The chimney should not come into contact with the attic floor beams or roof rafters. It should be taken into account that in the area where the attic floor intersects, it has a widening called fluff.
3. The minimum distance from the pipe to the roof ridge is 1.5 m.

There are exceptions to the first rule:

1. A hob with a low and wide body, equipped with a heating panel, can be installed without a foundation if the floor can withstand a load of at least 250 kg/m2.
2. In a house with a sectional strip foundation, a furnace with a volume of up to 1000 bricks can be erected at the intersection of the foundations interior walls(including T-shaped). In this case, the minimum distance from the furnace foundation to the foundation strips of the building is 1.2 m.
3. A small Russian stove can be erected on a base made of wooden beams with a cross-section of 150x150 mm (the so-called guardianship), resting on the ground or rubble masonry of the building’s foundation.

Preparatory work consists of laying the foundation and laying thermal and waterproofing. If the furnace is equipped with trenches, a strip foundation is built under it, or a rubble foundation can be used. A conventional furnace (without trenches) is built on a monolithic reinforced concrete slab. On each side, the foundation must protrude beyond the outline of the stove by at least 50 mm.

The insulating “pie” is assembled in the following sequence:

• roofing material is laid on the foundation in 2 or 3 layers;
• 4–6 mm thick basalt cardboard or the same asbestos sheet is laid on top;
• then put a sheet roofing iron;
• All that's left to do is put it down last layer- basalt cardboard or felt impregnated with highly diluted masonry mortar.

Laying can begin only after the top layer has dried to the roofing iron.

Before starting masonry work, a fireproof covering must be built on the floor in front of the future furnace, which usually consists of a sheet of roofing iron laid on a lining of asbestos or basalt cardboard. One edge of the sheet is pressed against the first row of bricks, the rest are bent and nailed to the floor. The front edge of such a covering must be at least 300 mm away from the stove, while its side edges must extend beyond the stove by 150 mm on each side.

Step-by-step instruction

Laying rules in accordance with the order

The oven is placed in accordance with the order (see figure).

Adhere to the following rules:

1. The seams between the bricks in the arch of the firebox and the under-fire part can be up to 13 mm wide, in other cases - 3 mm. Deviations are allowed: upward - up to a width of 5 mm, downward - up to 2 mm.
2. Ligation of seams between ceramic and fireclay masonry this cannot be done - these materials differ greatly in thermal expansion. For the same reason, seams in such areas, as well as around metal or concrete elements, are given a maximum thickness (5 mm).
3. The masonry must be carried out with bandaging of the seams, that is, each seam must overlap with the adjacent brick by at least a quarter of its (brick) length.
4. The laying of each row begins with corner bricks, the position of which is checked by level and plumb. So that verticality does not have to be checked every time, cords are pulled strictly vertically along the corners of the stove (to do this, you need to drive nails into the ceiling and into the seams between the bricks) and then use them to guide you.
5. Doors and dampers are fixed in the masonry using binding wire inserted into the seams, or using clamps made from a 25x2 mm steel strip. The second option is for the firebox door (especially its upper part), oven and fire dampers: here the wire will quickly burn out.

In fluff and otter, only the external size of the chimney increases, the internal cross-section remains unchanged. The thickness of the walls increases gradually, for which plates cut from brick are added to the masonry. Inner surface The chimney needs to be plastered.

How to make a heating unit with your own hands

The construction of the furnace body begins with the sub-furnace part.

1. In the absence of sufficient experience, the rows should first be laid out without mortar and thoroughly leveled, and only then the row should be transferred to the mortar. Also, novice craftsmen are recommended to lay out the furnace section of the furnace in formwork.
2. After laying the 3rd row, a blower door is installed on it.
3. It must be level. To seal the gap between the brick and the frame, the latter is wrapped with asbestos cord.
4. Next, the fire part is laid out, for which stove and fireclay bricks are used.
5. Before laying, the blocks are cleaned from dust with a brush. Ceramic brick you need to moisten it by dipping it in a container of water, then shake it off. Wetting fireclay bricks is not only not required, but also not allowed. Many stove-makers apply the solution by hand, since they can be laid with a trowel. thin layer 3 mm thick is not easy. The brick must be placed correctly immediately, without adjusting or knocking. If it was not possible to do this the first time, the operation must be repeated, after first removing the mortar spread on the brick - it can no longer be used.
6. After laying several more rows, the ash pan chamber is covered with a grate. It should lie on fireclay bricks, in which the corresponding grooves are cut.
7. Install the combustion door in the same order in which the blower door was installed.
8. Lay out the rows of the combustion chamber. If a low stove is being built, then the row of bricks above the fire door must be moved back somewhat so that they are not overturned by the heavy cast iron sheet when it is opened.
9. The combustion chamber is covered with a hob or vault (in a purely heating stoves). Due to the significant difference in thermal expansion between cast iron and clay, the slab cannot be laid on the mortar - an asbestos cord must be placed under it.
10. Next, they continue laying the stove according to the order, creating a gas convector system. In order for soot to collect at the bottom of the gas convector, from where it is easily removed, the height of the lower interchannel transitions (flows) must be 30-50% greater than the upper ones (they are called passes). The edges of the passes need to be rounded.

Having completed the construction of the furnace body, they begin to construct the chimney.

Features of the formation of the arch

There are two types of vaults:

• flat: vaults of this type are laid from shaped bricks in the same way, but instead of a circle, a flat tray is used. A flat vault has one peculiarity: it must be perfectly symmetrical, otherwise it will crumble very soon. Therefore, even stove makers with sufficient experience build this part of the stove using purchased shaped bricks and the same pallets;
• semicircular (arched).

The latter are laid out using a pattern, also called a circle:

1. They begin by installing the outer support blocks on the mortar - thrust bearings, which are pre-cut according to the drawing of the vault, made in full size.
2. After the solution has dried, install the circle and lay out the wings of the vault.
3. The keystones are driven in with a log or a wooden hammer, having previously applied a thick layer of mortar to the installation site. At the same time, they monitor how the mortar is squeezed out of the masonry of the wings: if the masonry was completed without disturbances, this process will take place evenly throughout the entire vault.

The circle should be removed only after completely dry solution.

The angle between the axes of adjacent bricks in a semicircular vault should not exceed 17 degrees. At standard sizes blocks, the seam between them inside (from the firebox side) should have a width of 2 mm, and outside - 13 mm.

Rules and nuances of operation

For a stove to be economical, it must be maintained in good condition. A crack only 2 mm wide in the valve area will provide heat loss of 10% due to the uncontrolled flow of air through it.

The stove also needs to be heated correctly. If the blower is very open, 15 to 20% of the heat can fly out into the chimney, and if the combustion door is open while the fuel is burning, then all 40%.

The wood used to heat the stove must be dry. To do this, they need to be prepared ahead of time. Wet firewood produces less heat, and in addition, due to the abundance of moisture in it, heat is formed in the chimney. a large number of acid condensate, which intensively destroys brick walls.

In order for the oven to heat up evenly, the thickness of the logs should be the same - about 8–10 cm.

Firewood is laid in rows or in a cage, so that there is a gap of 10 mm between them. There should be a distance of at least 20 mm from the top of the fuel fill to the top of the firebox; it’s even better if the firebox is 2/3 full.

The bulk of the fuel is ignited with a torch, paper, etc. It is prohibited to use acetone, kerosene or gasoline.

After kindling, you need to close the view so that the heat does not escape through the chimney.

When adjusting the draft during kindling, you need to be guided by the color of the flame. The optimal combustion mode is characterized by yellow fire; if it turns white, the air is supplied in excess and a significant part of the heat is thrown into the chimney; The red color indicates a lack of air - the fuel does not burn completely, and a large amount of harmful substances is released into the atmosphere.

Cleaning (including soot removal)

Cleaning and repairing the stove is usually carried out in the summer, but in winter you will need to clean the chimney 2-3 times. Soot is an excellent heat insulator and if there is a large amount of it, the furnace will become less efficient.

Ash must be removed from the grate before each fire.

The draft in the furnace, and therefore its operating mode, is regulated by a viewer, a valve and a blower door. Therefore, the condition of these devices must be constantly monitored. Any faults or wear should be repaired or replaced immediately.

Video: how to fold a stove with your own hands

Whichever option brick oven Whatever you choose, it will work effectively only in a well-insulated house. Otherwise there will be no friendship between them.

Country houses are increasingly equipped small ovens various models. A stove in the interior by its very presence makes it warmer and more comfortable. And in spring and autumn it provides a comfortable temperature in the rooms, which is doubly pleasant when it is raining outside or a damp, cold wind is blowing.

The modern market offers a huge selection compact ovens for country houses designed to operate on various types of fuel:

• Gas;
• Electrical;
• Models burning coal, pellets or wood.

Wood-burning stoves are in particular demand. Tongues of live fire dancing in the firebox, the breathtaking smell of real wood, and the special soft, enveloping and relaxing warmth make them desirable both in small country houses and in reputable country cottages.

This article will focus specifically on wood-burning stoves.

Types of wood stoves

Having decided on what your heating device will operate on, you should decide what its main parameters will be.

Modern wood stoves are usually divided according to the following indicators:

• Purpose:
  • Heating systems, their only task is to heat the building;
  • Heating and cooking. They heat several rooms at once and have special design elements (hobs) that allow you to cook and heat food;
  • Furnaces-boilers. A water circuit is built into them, which allows them to be used in a water heating circuit, or for preparing hot water. Varieties of such structures are sauna stoves;
  • The oven is universal, equipped with a compartment for drying fruit, a hot water box, an oven, a summer chimney and a samovar connection point.
• Material of manufacture:
  • Metal, with thin and thick walls;
  • Cast iron;
  • Brick;
• installation location:
  • classic options, designed for installation near a wall;
  • corner;
  • island. The design of such stoves allows them to be placed in the center of the room;
• burning duration. This indicator is one of the most important. According to it, furnaces are divided into models:
  • short-term (up to 3 hours) burning of one stack of firewood;
  • long-term (up to 12 hours), which is achieved through a system for adjusting the air supplied to the firebox. The most popular models are the and .

Cast iron stoves

These models are presented on the market in much smaller quantities. Used as a backup heat source that can be used in emergency situations. Unlike thin-walled steel, cast iron stoves Having warmed up quickly, they retain heat for a long time.

Products in this group are divided into two basic groups.

Long burning (multi-fuel).

Some models are available with a built-in additional air supply system, which allows you to burn pyrolysis gases.

Furnaces with built-in heat exchangers and water circuit.

Such models allow you to equip your dacha with water heating. Their power is enough to heat large one- and two-story country houses. Provided that the CO is filled with non-freezing coolant.

A typical representative of this group can be considered

Brick ovens

A small brick stove for a summer house is the most durable, reliable and high-status option. But such stoves are quite expensive. Rooms warm up more slowly than when using steel, or cast iron models. But this is many times compensated by the quality of heat and the duration of its preservation.

The vast majority of brick ovens are structurally adapted for cooking. Some models can be used as fireplaces.

Most often, one of the stove models is used as a country stove:

• Dutch
• Swede
• Kuznetsov furnaces.

This is explained by the fact that in the lines of small brick stoves for giving these models, you can choose quite compact options; stoves of a similar design are available for independent laying (if you strictly follow the procedures), and have an acceptable cost (even when ordering the work from a professional stove maker).

Products of the mentioned types allow you to choose the optimal model that:

• will provide in a country house optimal temperature at minimum consumption firewood;
• will warm up evenly over the entire height;
• maintain a comfortable temperature in the premises of the cottage for a long time;
• have a maximum heating of the outer walls of no more than 95°C;
• the oven must be completely safe and easy to use;
• its calculated durability (when using appropriate materials and properly executed masonry) must be at least 20 years;
• The presence of through cracks in the outer walls is unacceptable. This is dangerous to human health (carbon monoxide enters the room);
• visually attractive appearance.

What you need for work

If you decide to install a brick stove in your dacha yourself, you should start by choosing its type. Then the required order is selected (on the Internet or technical literature). It is possible to order the development of a personal design from an experienced stove maker. But this is quite an expensive pleasure.

Basic materials

Having the order in hand, you can go shopping for materials (and the missing tools). As a rule, the list of required materials and installation accessories is approximately the same for any brick stoves. The only difference is the amount of materials required.

To work you will definitely need:

• brick, but not any brick, but the one indicated in the order.

This material is divided into:

• by size:
  • 250*120*65 - normal;
  • 250*120*80 - thickened;
  • 288*138*138 - modular;
• By strength (from grade 75 to grade 300);
• By variety:
  • Only grade 1 and grade 2 bricks are suitable for masonry. The body of the furnace and the chimney are made from it;
• Fireproof (another name, fireclay). This brick is intended for laying a firebox.

• Red clay (ordinary). The material is used to make masonry mortar. It is divided into:
  • Oily (sand impurities do not exceed 3%);
  • Average (≤ 15%);
  • Skinny (about 30%);
• Sand (preferably quarry sand);
• Chamotte (preferably). This material is added instead of sand to clay when making mortar for laying the firebox;
• Water (preferably rain or distilled). It is strictly forbidden to work with hard water;
• Slaked lime. This material will be required during the arrangement, as well as the head chimney, which rises above the roof;
• Cement. Solutions based on it can be used instead of lime. For a country stove, grade 400 and above will be sufficient.

Additional materials

• Steel profiles (if they are provided for in the order);
• Steel sheet (for flooring in front of the firebox);
• Annealed steel wire;
• Asbestos cord;
• Waterproofing (roofing felt);
• Construction felt (for laying under the pre-furnace sheet);
• Fireproof mastics (Russian “Garant” or “Monolit”), paint (for example, German Dufa Heizkorperlack).

If your financial capabilities are not limited, you can reduce the time of work (while simultaneously increasing its quality). Purchase factory-prepared dry masonry mixtures. For example, from the Scanterm line, Finnish production (or analogues).

In addition to the main and additional building materials you will need basic stove appliances(according to order):

• Fire door (it is better to take a glazed one, which will allow you to admire the fiery dance);
• Blower door;
• Views;
• Valves;
• Rotary dampers;
• Wind vane.

Tool

For ease of use, you will need the following tools:

• Stovemaker's hammer;
• Pick;
• Construction trowel (another name, trowel);
• Joining for masonry joints(preferably);
• Knife-scrape;
• Scoop shovel for mixing the solution (can be replaced with an electric drill with a mixer);
• Measuring tool:
  • Roulette;
  • folding meter;
  • plumb line;
  • square;
  • levels: construction, water (if any, laser);
• falcons;
• grater and grater;
• grinder with a set of discs for stone or concrete;
• extension.

In addition, you will need a large container for preparing masonry mortar and a bucket for water.

Carrying out masonry

If earlier the laying of a stove was carried out exclusively according to existing procedures, today the Internet provides the opportunity to lay out a simple stove, guided by step by step photos with comments. This option is much clearer to many summer residents. Since correct reading of orders requires primary knowledge of furnace business and symbols.

We offer you a combined version (orders + photos), which tells about the laying of a simple country stove. This model allows you to heat the room and cook food.

Foundation arrangement

It is from this stage that work begins if the stove has significant weight. The option we are considering does not exceed 500 kg for this indicator. Therefore, it can be laid without first making a foundation.

In the case where the floors in the country house are weak, we strongly recommend screeding in place of the future one.

After that:

• We waterproof the masonry site by laying a sheet waterproofing material(ruberoid);
• we form on top of it sand cushion thickness of at least 10 mm;
• under the level (without masonry mortar) we lay out the 1st row (item 1 of the order given above);
• In the second and third rows we have an air vent door. We wrap it twice with a cord (asbestos) and fix it using wire;
• put the 2nd and 3rd row;
• 4th is made with fireclay bricks;
• A grate is placed in the seat. Since metal and brick have different coefficients of thermal linear expansion, when forming a seat, a four-sided gap of 10 mm must be provided;
• The fifth row is laid “on edge”. We form a stand inside the chimney for the subsequent formation of an internal partition. With a slight extension beyond the plane of the back wall of the furnace, a “blowout brick” is placed “dry” (without using masonry mortar);
• There will be a firebox door in rows 6-8. We also wrap it with asbestos cord around the installation perimeter and connect the fastening wire to it. Then we fix the door in the desired position using several bricks (see photo).
• We place the 6th row “in the spoon” along the contour of the fifth, then the 7th “on the edge”. We grout the internal walls of the chimney with a damp cloth (remove excess mortar);
• To ensure bandaging of masonry seams, the 8th row is placed in a spoon (flat) with ¾ bricks (blanks required length performed with a grinder). Back wall in this row it is placed on the edge;
• In the ninth row, the firebox door is blocked from above. A “smoke tooth” (beveled brick) is placed above the firebox to center the fire under the burner.
• The 10th row, in order to hold the door open, is placed with the brick offset towards the rear wall. Before starting masonry, you should lay a wet asbestos cord, which will act as a sealant along the contact line hob and bricks;
• Starting from the 11th row, a chimney is formed (with a step-by-step shift to the rear wall). To ensure that this does not lead to a displacement of the center of gravity of the entire furnace, the pipe is made of a mounted (metal) pipe or made attached;
• 12 row. This is the place where the valve is installed, which is pre-sealed with an asbestos cord and coated with clay masonry mortar;
• Then a ¼ chimney pipe is placed, to which a metal pipe is joined;
• The knockout brick is removed and the construction debris that has accumulated there is removed from the chimney;
  
• The gap formed between the floor and the first row of brickwork is closed with an L-shaped metal overlay. then the baseboard is nailed.
• The stove is whitewashed, after which the outer surface is covered with heat-resistant varnish (stove varnish). The joints between the brickwork and metal structural elements are additionally sealed. It is advisable to paint all stove appliances with fire-resistant black paint.
• A test fire is carried out (small wood chips, paper). After this, the structure is aged for 14-15 days to complete natural drying.

Below we present another selection of photographs, which shows that a brick oven can not only be laid “from scratch”, but also be completely replaced with partial preservation of the structure (in our case, the pipe and foundation).

The stove, which had been standing at the dacha for 18 years, needed to be updated. When comparing two solutions: repair, or complete replacement stove, after checking its actual condition, a decision was made to replace it, preserving (in order to save money and time for masonry) the old foundation and chimney.

To carry out this work, Mr. Rublev (it was he who posted these materials on the network) needed:

• Kiln bricks of the “Vitebsk” brand – 450 pcs;
• Fireclay bricks for the firebox – 40 pieces;
• Sheet asbestos – 1 sheet;
• Cement M400 – 1 bag;
• Fireclay clay – 3 bags;
• Fireproof black paint, designed for use at temperatures up to 600°C – 1 can;
• Fireproof varnish (colorless) – 2 bottles;
• Door with glass for the firebox – 1 piece;
• Blower door (with matching pattern to match the main one) – 1 piece;
• Medium size grate – 1 piece;

Views and valves were used from an old furnace.

Now let's look.

1. This is what the stove looked like before the renovation. Cracks in the slab, cracks around it and brick crumbling in the firebox were the basis for alteration.
   
2. The pipe is in excellent condition. And, with the consent of the master stove maker, it was decided to leave it. The issue of fixing the pipe after there was no stove underneath was resolved very simply. On both sides, grooves were cut into its walls, into which a corner was inserted. To prevent the latter from diverging, it was fixed with wire. And two boards were placed under it (this is the second floor of the country house).
3. Then they began to dismantle the oven. At the same time, they tried to preserve the old brick for reuse. At the same time, the top two rows were retained on the pipe. This eliminated the need to go through the floor and ceiling covering again.
   
4. Dismantling continues. It reached the oven. Since it is not needed for the new oven, we remove it.
   
5. We reached the lower chimneys
   
6. Everything has been removed down to the foundation
   
7. And this is a “look through the pipe”. The sky is visible. This means traction is guaranteed.
   
8. The stove maker turned out to be a professional. Therefore, instead of opening the seams, I suggested chamfering them. It turned out great.
   
   
9. Laying the first brick of a new furnace
   
10. The bottom row is ready. Used bricks are laid inside.
    
11. This is what masonry done by a professional looks like
    
12. A lower thermal chamber (L-shaped) is formed.
    Its location guarantees bottom-level heating of the air in the room.
13. Laying a row of fireclay bricks under the base of the firebox. The laid grate is clearly visible. On the right, bottom view.
    
14. The turn came to the firebox door.
    
15. View in all its glory (see photo 13)
    
16. Installing a hob on 1 burner (trying on).
    
17. The craftsman formed a protruding brick canopy over the firebox. If the door allows soot to pass through, it will not stain the entire wall of the stove, but will be held in place by this element.
    
18. The cooking surface is placed on mastic. There is a functional utensil rack nearby, which is very convenient.
    
19. And this is the “belly of the stove,” one of the elbows of the internal chimney.
    
20. And these are all 3 knees in the “group portrait”
    
21. Firebox
    
22. Almost full height. The visor and the valve are clearly visible (from the side).
23. A dryer will be placed above the hob.
24. And here you can see how the issue of access to warm air has been resolved. Everything ingenious is simple (bottom view)
    
25. Shelf on top. Behind it are vertical sections of the chimney.
    
26. The stove reached its ceiling, which was also equipped with a visor for beauty.
    
27. We begin laying the pipe in the free space, trying to combine it with the existing part.
    
28. This is the distance left between the new one and old parts pipes. The brick will definitely not fit. And it is necessary.
    
29. This did not stop the professional. The stove maker simply used two jacks and lifted it up the desired height the rest of the pipe.
    
    
30. We complete the laying of the connecting row and lay the masonry mortar on top of it.
    
31. We lower the upper part and it sits tightly on the solution.
    
32. We coat the surface of the stove with varnish and the metal elements. black paint. The work is completed.
33. Control firebox.
    
    

The stove represents home, warming all loved ones. Therefore, for the home they choose a device with a firebox that would warm the room well and would not fail during operation. A wood-burning stove is particularly durable and reliable. If desired, you can build it yourself.

Advantages and disadvantages of a wood-burning stove

If firewood is used as fuel, then the stove located in the house, garage or country house must meet a number of requirements. Both the firebox and the chimney of the device are constructed so that they do not collapse during operation.

The laying of brick wood stoves is carried out according to a special scheme, ensuring structural strength and maximum heat transfer to the surface

Thanks to the special manufacturing technology, a wood-burning stove has many advantages:

1. Efficiency. A stove with firewood placed in its firebox easily heats the air in a room with an area of ​​at least 4 m².
2. A pleasant aroma emanating from wood engulfed in flames.
3. Possibility of using not only firewood, but also coal.
4. Long service life with timely repairs.
5. Low costs for purchasing fuel.

However, it is worth paying attention to some disadvantages of a wood-burning stove:

1. The need to monitor the fuel combustion process every 15 minutes, adding new batches on time.
2. The requirement to remove ash from the stove, the accumulation of which impairs draft.

Types of wood stoves

Stoves in which wood is burned are classified into the following types:

1. A cast iron wood stove is a room heating device used as an additional heat source. Smoke and gases are removed from it through a corrugated chimney or hose. A cast iron stove heats the air in the house very quickly and can be installed in any area of ​​the house. Equipped with a blower, it allows the room temperature to remain comfortable for long hours.

   A cast iron stove heats up very quickly, but it cannot hold heat for as long as a brick.

2. A metal wood-burning stove is a structure that can heat the air in a room in an amazingly short time, since it is made of steel, which retains heat. But the effect of a metal stove disappears quickly, because its walls are made of thin material. Therefore, in order to avoid an immediate drop in temperature in the house, the stove should be constructed from stainless steel sheets, creating thick seams that will protect the structure from cracks.

   A metal stove heats up quickly, but cools down just as quickly

3. Brick wood stove - the most reliable device for heating a room, which requires large construction costs. The brick stove is equipped with a serpentine-shaped chimney, thanks to which the resulting heat does not leave the house for a long time. True, this device takes a lot of time to create a comfortable temperature, which distinguishes it from a metal stove. But the room, heated by a brick structure, does not cool down for a long time, and the stove itself can be used for cooking.

   A brick oven is the most difficult to build, but it retains heat the best

In a wooden house, it is wiser to install a compact brick stove of the heating and cooking type. And the heat capacity of the device should be average.

Design and principle of operation of a brick wood stove

Each stove in which firewood is placed has the following structural elements:

Burning wood in a firebox produces gases that are heated to a high temperature. These substances pass through the pipe, making the walls of the furnace hot. As a result, heat is transferred to the air in the room. How quickly will the temperature rise in the house? air environment, depends on the thickness of the furnace wall material. Usually it takes about 5 hours to heat the rooms of a private house.

To maintain a fire in the firebox, it is necessary to regulate the draft force. To do this, open the ash door and the smoke damper located in the chimney less or more. It is important to prevent excess or lack of oxygen in the chamber for storing firewood. Excessive air reduces the temperature in the firebox, while insufficient air causes the formation of incomplete combustion products. Because of this, the heat transfer of the stove significantly deteriorates, and accelerated formation of soot occurs in the chimney.

Video: all about the brick oven

Making a brick wood stove with your own hands

Calculation of wood stove parameters

To determine what size oven you need to build, you should take into account the area of ​​the room. The square footage of the building is obtained by multiplying the outer perimeter by 21 (the amount of heat required to heat 1 m³ of area to 18 degrees).

You can find out what kind of wood-burning stove should be using a table showing the surface dimensions of the equipment depending on its location and room parameters. The presented data should be used if the height of the house is 3 meters and the temperature outside the window is not lower than 25 degrees below zero.

Table: recommended oven surface depending on its location

Let's say they are going to build a stove between the kitchen and the hallway. When calculating the equipment area, proceed as follows:

1. Add the volume of the kitchen to the volume of the hallway (let, for example, it be 54.39 m³ + 18.87 m³ = 73.26 m³).
2. Find out the value of thermal energy output - 73.26 x 21 = 1,538 kcal/h.
3. Determine the heating area of ​​the furnace, taking into account that square meter the furnace produces 300 kcal/h - 1,538 kcal/h: 300 = 5.1 m².
4. Divide the heating area of ​​the furnace by its active height (heated height) and obtain the perimeter of the active surface - 5.1: 2.2 = 2.3 m.
5. Determine the sum of the two sides of the stove - 2.3: 2 = 1.15 m.
6. Set some width and find the length (for example, if the oven width is 510 mm, the length will be 640 mm).

List of materials and tools

When starting to build a wood-burning brick oven, you need to prepare the following construction raw materials:

• fireclay bricks grade Ш8 (for the firebox), since they are easily transported high temperature, retain heat and do not collapse for a long time;

  Fireclay brick tolerates temperatures above 1,000 degrees, so it is used to lay out the furnace part of the furnace

• red fire bricks, which are impervious to extreme heat, but are fragile and therefore require extreme care when laying;

  Red refractory brick has high heat transfer, so the main parts of the furnace are constructed from it, giving off heat to the room and removing combustion products

• mastic used as an adhesive for brickwork;
• combustion door;
• ash door;
• cast iron hob;
• cast iron grates mounted between the wood combustion chamber and the ash pit;

  The cast iron grate is installed between the firebox and the ash pan

• chimney valve.

The construction of a brick kiln is carried out using the following tools:

• electric saw with metal blade;
• sharpener, eliminating unevenness of bricks;
• hammer;
• spatulas with plates of various widths and lengths;
• level and plumb line for construction control;
• drill operating from the mains.

Finding a place to install the stove

A brick structure for heating a house must be installed so that it does not cause a fire in the house. For furnace equipment, it is necessary to find a place that would allow maximum use of its power.

The installation of a brick kiln should be done in one of the following areas:

• the center of the room, where the air heating equipment will divide the room into sectors;
• a niche in the wall located between two or three rooms;
• place near the wall (about 30 cm further) if you want to raise the air temperature in only one room.

Having decided on the area for the furnace, markings are carried out. Drawing lines defining the contours of the furnace equipment being manufactured begins from the ceiling. In this case, they use a plumb line, since it is very important to ensure that the chimney passes through the attic floors at a distance of 15 cm from the rafters.

When looking for a suitable site for a furnace, you must keep in mind that you need a lot of space to build a foundation. Therefore, the area where the stove will be located in the future needs to be increased by 10 or 15 cm on each side.

When looking for a place to install a stove, it is necessary to find a reasonable compromise between the distances from the walls and rafters and the availability of free space for a strong foundation

Before laying the bricks, a stand is placed on the floor, which will protect the area under the stove from the pressure of a heavy structure and overheating. The device must be multi-layered, that is, consist of plywood coated with a composition that protects the material from rotting, dense basalt cardboard, 8 mm thick aceite and galvanization.

A sheet is also nailed to the wall that will be located next to the stove, protecting it from strong heat. This heat shield is usually created from pieces of basalt cardboard and aceite coated with molten zinc.

Options and schemes for making a wood-burning stove

According to what scheme the oven should be built from bricks, depends on the type of equipment. For example, a Swedish stove is laid out as follows:

1. 1st row - a piece of roofing material is placed on the bottom of the future stove, which is sprinkled with sand, forming a layer of 1 cm. At the same time, the horizontalness of the base is kept under control, otherwise the stove will turn out crooked. Having created a platform, they lay out the first row of bricks, thereby obtaining the corners of the structure.

   The first row of masonry sets the angles of the future structure

2. 2nd row - using wire and cement composition install the blower door.
3. 3rd row - when placing a line of bricks, make sure that the blocks of the next row overlap the joints of the bricks laid out earlier. A metal strip 4 cm wide, 40 cm long and 4 mm thick is placed on the right.
4. 4th row - install several metal corners with vertical elements facing down and inserted into the joints of the bricks. Then the cast iron grate is put in place.

   The grate is placed on metal corners, immured in masonry

5. Row 5 - the corners of the brick blocks are leveled, eliminating roughness. We are talking about those bricks that are adjacent to the grate. It is necessary to trim 7–8 cm.
6. Row 6 - install cast iron doors for the combustion chamber. The element is fixed in place using steel wire and cement mortar. To prevent the brick structure from becoming brittle due to the strong heating of the cast iron, the area around the door is wrapped with an asbestos cord.

   The firebox door is secured with steel wire

7. Rows 7, 8 and 9 are formed by covering the door of the fuel combustion chamber. In this case, the horizontal seams are made thin (no more than 5 mm). This will allow you to lay out the ninth row at the level of the top edge of the frame from the fire door.
8. Row 10 - a new line of bricks covers the joints of previously built blocks.
9. Row 11 - two steel plates 4.5 cm wide, more than 4 cm long and about 4 mm thick are placed on the laid line of bricks.
10. Row 12 - strips of steel are placed on the left side of the structure, and whole bricks are placed on it. After this, they work on the right side of the structure, placing two bricks, reduced by ¼. By laying out whole bricks, it will not be possible to make an opening that matches the size of a single-burner hob. An asbestos cord soaked in water and cement mortar. The hob is fixed using steel wire and a level that allows you to assess the horizontalness of the structure.

    A hob or heating panel without burners is mounted on the twelfth row of masonry

11. Row 13 - a line of bricks is laid out behind the hob, leaving a space of 1 cm for heat to pass through. Later this gap is filled with sand.
12. Rows 14–17 are created as required by the ordering scheme. The height of the wall to the left of the hob is adjusted based on the size of the entire masonry. To install ceilings over hob, the 17th line of bricks is supplemented with three corners 60 cm long and three strips of dense steel 30 cm long.
13. Row 18 - install the ceiling of the cooking chamber, taking care to completely fill the seams with mortar.

    The first row of flooring above the hob is laid on metal corners and plates

14. Row 19 - on right side brickwork leaves a void the size of half a brick. This space will later serve as an opening for cleaning the oven.
15. Row 20 - laying out the next line, a brick is laid in the previously left opening, which can be easily pulled out. A steel strip, the length and width of which is 1.4 cm, is mounted on the laid bricks. The plate will ensure the zigzag movement of gases along the chimney, which means it will contribute to uniform heating of all zones of the furnace.
16. 21st row - create partitions that will separate the lower and higher channels for removing combustion products from each other.
17. Row 22 - while laying out the next line of bricks, another steel plate is installed.
18. Row 23 - act according to the order scheme.
19. Row 24 - having laid out a new line of bricks, they lay down the last steel strip, the task of which is to force the smoke to move along the pipe in a zigzag manner.
20. Row 25 - a piece of sheet steel with a straight hole in the place where the chimney passes is attached to the laid bricks with steel strips.
21. Row 26 - continue to create brickwork, focusing on the ordering diagram, and install the valve for the chimney.

    The gate valve allows you to regulate the chimney draft and close the smoke channel after the coals have completely died out.

22. Row 27 - lay out a continuous line of bricks with a gap for passing the pipe.
23. Row 28 - the furnace walls are completed with the last line of bricks, after which they check how well all the seams are sealed.
24. Row 29 - lay out the structure of the pipe going through the roof.

Each row of a brick kiln has a clear masonry pattern

If you want to build a small stove that will consume little wood, despite high heat output, then you should give preference to the following assembly option brick construction:

1. 1st row or base for the stove. A blower door with a gap and an asbestos-cement cord is also installed here.

   Bricks are placed close to each other

2. 2–3 rows. The walls of the ash chamber and one cleaning chamber are laid out, which is closed dry with half a brick.
3. 4th row. It partially covers the ash chamber and begins to form smoke channels.
4. 5th row. Involves the installation of a grate. The holes are located along the fuel chamber. The laying of the canal walls continues.
5. Rows 6–8. Form a combustion chamber. Here, at the same time, the firebox door is installed with a gap (3–5 mm), into which the asbestos cord is laid.
6. 9 row. Forms the walls of the combustion chamber and channels according to the orders.

   There are warm air exhaust channels next to the combustion chamber.

7. 10 row. Continues the construction of the combustion chamber walls and channels according to the procedures.
8. 11th row. A single-burner stove is installed, the frame of the niche is laid, and the laying of the stove wall and channels continues.
9. Rows 12–18. The cooking niche and channels are laid out. On the thirteenth row, a valve for kindling is installed.
10. 19th row. The second half of the stove with a valve is installed on the metal frame of the cooking niche and on the bricks and the nineteenth row is laid out.

    In the first row after the overlap hob it is necessary to make triangular cutouts in the bricks

11. 20th row. It involves installing an oven and further laying channels according to the procedures.
12. 21–22 row. Continue laying around the oven and laying the channels.
13. 23rd row. Supports are installed to cover the oven chamber.
14. Rows 24–26. The laying of channels is done according to the procedures.

    A gate valve is installed in the twenty-sixth row

15. Row 27–28. The channels are overlapped, leaving one pipe channel 140x140 mm according to the order.
16. Next comes the laying of the chimney pipe.

Video: laying a stove for the home with your own hands

Operating a Wood Stove

To keep your oven safe, you need to take care of the following:

• nail a sheet of steel 30 cm long and 2 mm thick onto the floor from the side of the combustion chamber, which would extend 15 cm beyond the brick structure;
• use a chimney (if it is not brick) made of acid-resistant material that can disperse smoke well.

Firing the stove will not create problems if you follow the rule when operating it - put into the chamber only the firewood that is stored in a covered woodpile, which protects the fuel from moisture.

Operating a wood stove is a real craft. To make it enjoyable and beneficial, you should listen to some tips:

• the firewood is placed in the firebox more densely, with the gaps that were left in the woodpile;
• It makes more sense to put thick firewood on top, and thin wood below;
• a gap of 1/5 of its height is supposed to be left under the arch of the firebox;
• After loading the first batch of firewood, the firebox door must not be opened for an hour.

Video: how to properly light a stove

Upon completion of the work, it will become clear that the construction of a wood-burning stove is not as burdensome as it seems at first. Although it takes a lot of effort and hours to complete this task, the result will not make you regret what you did.

Stoves are quite often found in various homes and buildings, since they are traditional way heating, and can also even be used for preparing various dishes. Often, the owners of buildings independently create this design, but it is first important to decide what type of stove will be created, since some of its types can be distinguished. Each variety is suitable for both, so it is important to resolve this issue in advance.

Why brick construction?

Initially, it is important to highlight that brick structures are the most optimal and suitable, and this is due to their parameters and characteristics. The positive properties of brick stoves include:

• Brick is a material that perfectly transfers heat into a room using heated walls, which allows for optimal and high-quality heating of rooms.
• Stoves made of this material are capable of accumulating heat, and even after the construction is completed, they will heat the premises for quite a long time.
• If you wish, you can build this structure using high-quality and suitable bricks yourself, since here it is only important to have the optimal and correct order, and also know how to lay the material, what type of fireboxes and stoves themselves will be chosen, and which one will be used for masonry.
• Brick is a material that is resistant to mechanical and other types of impact, and is also safe and durable, as a result of which the resulting structures have a long service life and excellent reliability.

The disadvantages of a brick stove for the home include the fact that it takes a long time to heat up, therefore, it will be possible to heat a completely cold room quite a long time after the structure begins to warm up.

How to choose a brick building

Since the types of stoves are numerous and also have many significant differences, it is necessary to make the right choice. To do this, you need not only to know what types are on the market, but also take into account the characteristics of the room and home where the product will be used.

Read also: Why does the stove smoke and how to fix it

When choosing, you should take into account the dimensions of the building itself, since the power and parameters of the furnace must correspond to these features.

Additionally taken into account, will the stove be intended for a house in which people live all year round or only a few seasons or even weeks.

For each option, the most suitable one must be selected best design, meeting all requirements and also easy to use.

If you choose a stove for a private house in which people live permanently, then it must be reliable, capital, high-quality and efficient

For a summer house or other structure, which is used in most cases in the summer, and also for a few days in the winter, a small stove is suitable, which will not take up much space, and the process of its creation itself will be simple.

Main types of designs

There are many types of stoves, so before purchasing, you should study all the options and choose the most suitable one. In this case, it is important to take into account the direct purpose of the design, since it stands out 4 main types:

• Heating stove. This option is intended solely as a complete and basic heating system for a private home or cottage. They can be large or small, and the choice depends on the size of the building itself. The difference and types of fireboxes are also important parameter when choosing. The design of such a structure designed for efficient and quick heating of rooms, so the walls of the stoves heat up quickly and strongly. As a rule, such designs do not have an attractive appearance and a wide variety of fireboxes, and when they are used for their intended purpose, quite a lot of fuel is spent, which is usually high-quality and properly dried firewood.

• Heating and cooking products for home. IN Lately they are becoming more and more popular. They are intended not only for heating the structure, but also for preparing various dishes. The units are equipped with various additional elements, which includes heating panel or oven, grill or other structures. The variety of fireboxes for such stoves made of brick is considered significant, so you can choose the most suitable option. Dishes on this stove turn out very tasty and aromatic, so people often prefer to cook only with its help. Also, such stoves are efficient in heating rooms. They can be intended not only for the home, but also for the garden. For a long service life of the product, it is important that it is made of high quality and fire-resistant bricks.

• Cooking oven. It is used exclusively. These products are completely different, and they are equipped different types firebox Usually, units are equipped with a kitchen hearth or grill, or other elements. They have many different functions that are used in the cooking process, simplifying and speeding it up. To create such a product, quite little is required building material, as well as the entire process of forming an element can be done on your own. When installing a cooking structure in a small room, it will do an excellent job not only of cooking, but also of heating the room.
• Narrowly targeted types of stoves. This may include structures intended for installation in a bathhouse, garage, or in other specific structures that require heating. They are also created from quality bricks, however, they are usually small in size. Their efficiency is at high level In addition, they are safer compared to other varieties.

Read also: Butakov stove: overview and installation methods

Other design classifications

In addition to their purpose, stoves differ from each other in other respects. What are the types according to the shape? This includes the following stoves:

• rectangular, which are considered quite simple to form;
• square, characterized by compact dimensions;
• corner, suitable for small spaces, and also occupying space in the room that is usually completely empty;
• round, are considered exotic and very beautiful;
• T-shaped considered traditional.

Which options will be chosen by future users depends on the size of the room where the equipment is supposed to be installed, as well as on the tastes and wishes of the owners themselves

The design of the fireboxes also distinguishes various stoves. Additionally, it is important to consider that the effectiveness depends on the thickness of their walls. Therefore stand out the following devices:

• thick-walled, considered the most effective;
• thin-walled, usually used only for the cooking process;
• combined, which are usually represented by heating and cooking models.

It should be noted that usually for the protection of already created brick structures, as well as for their attractiveness. appearance, various types of finishing

In accordance with this, the following stoves are distinguished:

• plastered;
• made using special decorative bricks;
• tied or stove tiles;
• secured in a metal case.

Each option is considered attractive and interesting. Some people, when creating a brick structure on their own, do not decorate it with any additional materials at all.

When choosing a design you should additionally take into account the structure and features of its chimney. In this case, stoves with the following chimneys are distinguished:

• direct-flow;
• countercurrent;
• with channels located vertically or horizontally;
• single-turn or multi-turn;
• with a complete absence of channels;
• with lower heating option.

Choosing a location for the structure

A brick stove must not only be correctly selected, but also correctly installed in the building. Wherein takes into account what area of ​​the entire structure and the room in which the stove will be located. Additionally, it is important to remember the purpose of the structure, the safety of its installation and the number of rooms that must be heated using this equipment.

The problem of heating country houses and country houses is associated with the lack of a central supply of coolant and gas. Many have already become disillusioned with metal potbelly stoves, but a small brick stove - built with their own hands - gives comfort and warmth, which cannot but rejoice.

Brick stoves for country houses

Advantages

In the last two to three decades, modern metal furnaces have taken an undisputed monopoly in individual construction. This is caused by a number of factors:

• Comparatively cheap compared to;
• Easy to assemble and install;
• Short deadlines for installation of the heating device at the place of final operation;
• High efficiency and firewood savings declared by the manufacturer;
• The apparent complexity of building a brick kiln and the difficulties associated with finding a worthy specialist in this field, fear self-construction such a monumental object;
• No need for complex roofing work when installing a chimney pipe;
• Relative compactness, which is important for a country house;
• An advertising campaign by manufacturers of metal furnaces, claiming their undeniable advantages.

However, once the owner of a metal device once finds himself in a room equipped with a stone stove, his views change radically.

It is impossible to deny the fact that the heat produced by such a stove is incomparably more comfortable and pleasant. The room is easy to breathe, has a pleasant smell, a special atmosphere and comfort.

The food cooked in a stone oven is also different. The special temperature regime, the taste of smoke and the oven effect give it unique taste and aroma.

In addition, there is a lot of data on some of the healing properties of thermal radiation emanating from warm clay heated to 70 - 75 ° C. Let's not go into the jungle of physics and biology, let's note the fact itself.

So, the advantages of a brick kiln, collected in a single list:

• Huge heat capacity and inertia of the device. It is enough to heat such a stove once, and it will continue to radiate heat into the room for a long time. Even in severe frosts, the number of fireboxes does not exceed two per day;
• The oven does not overheat outside, and it is impossible to get burned on it, which is extremely important for families with small children;
• The oven does not dry the air the way its metal counterparts do;
• Thermal radiation is much softer, not as aggressive and heavy as from steel and cast iron surfaces;
• Firewood consumption is less (a controversial opinion, but many owners agree);
• Incomparably longer service life;
• The smallest brick stove creates more coziness and comfort than the largest metal stove;
• Easily heats large volumes of water, and if you install a coil or register, warm water will always be;
• In the oven and firebox you can bake large quantities of bread and other flour products, as well as prepare porridge and other dishes;
• Even small brick stoves look great and decorate the interior, creating an inexplicable comfort and special ambiance in the room.

Advice! Any wood-burning heating device is a potential source of danger, as it produces carbon monoxide. Therefore, you should not take on complex large ovens, but DIY small brick oven- a very real option.

Naturally, there is nothing ideal and absolute, so it is necessary to talk about the difficulties and disadvantages of stone heating devices.

Flaws

Since we have listed the advantages of brick stoves, let's be fair and remember the disadvantages. We do not conduct an advertising campaign, so we are not afraid of objective assessments.

So, among the disadvantages of stone stoves, the following features can be listed:

• A very labor-intensive construction, especially for a person who has no experience in the construction of such products;
• This is quite a costly undertaking, especially if you hire an experienced stove maker; the price of these guys’ efforts and skills is definitely high;
• There is a risk of unsuccessful construction, and remodeling a stone monolithic structure, as you understand, is not the easiest task;
• The danger of operating a faulty or improperly constructed stove is associated with poisoning carbon monoxide, which can lead to very sad consequences;
• Requires more space in the house than its metal counterpart, although today more and more small stove projects are appearing that practically eliminate this disadvantage;
• High inertia is associated with a fairly long warm-up and kindling, so it may take several hours to heat the room well.

Advice! If you use your dacha for rare raids of a day or two in the warm season, and also in the cold season, then there is no point in starting the construction of a brick oven, since warming up will take three hours, and in the meantime you will be packing back. A brick stove is needed by people who love country holidays and allow themselves to spend long winter weeks at their dacha.

This is where the question of the purpose of the stove arises. Obviously, stoves come in different designs, sizes, and functions.

Purpose of furnaces

Another important point is the correct choice of configuration, design and purpose of the stove. Since we are talking about a dacha, we should proceed from the requirements of temporary suburban housing.

In general, there are four main types of stoves:

1. Heating;
2. Cooking;
3. Baths;
4. Mixed.

Strictly speaking, sauna stoves can be classified as a specialized subtype of heating devices. But we will not delve into the intricacies of classification, since this activity is, in general, useless.

Let's just say that for a dacha I would like to have a mixed type - something like, since it is irrational to arrange a separate heater and stove from the point of view of saving space.

Therefore, we can voice the requirements for a country brick stove based on all of the above:

1. Simplicity of design so that you can master the construction with your own hands;
2. Compact size, this is a dacha, not a castle or residence;
3. Multifunctionality, that is, a mixed type oven with which you can cook food, heat water and warm up the house.

Construction of a country stove made of bricks

We will need clay-sand mortar, building bricks (double sand-lime brick M 150 will not work, you need a clay one), trowel, bucket, mixing trough, plumb line, level, asbestos cord, fireclay brick, doors, valves and other stove fittings, galvanized steel wire, hammer with pick, grinder with disc for concrete.

The oven will take up 0.4 m², and its weight will be insignificant, so you can do without a foundation. If your floor is weak, then it is better to make a screed under the masonry.

So, laying a small country stove step by step:

• On the place chosen for the stove we place roofing felt or glassine measuring 530x780 mm for waterproofing;
• Pour sand one centimeter thick on top and level it;
• According to scheme No. 1 (the figure at the beginning of the paragraph), we lay out the first row of bricks without fastening them together, and level it using a level;

• Apply a thin layer of clay mortar. We take the blower door, wrap it with a double layer of asbestos cord and secure it with twisted wire.
• Lay out the second row of bricks.

• We take fireclay bricks and lay out the third row. After its formation, we install the grate. We maintain gaps for thermal expansion of materials of up to 1 cm.

• Using a brick placed on an edge, we lay out the fourth row. Inside the chimney duct we make stands for internal partition. We place the “kick-out bricks” of the rear wall without clay with a slight protrusion outward.
• We install the combustion door, pre-wrapped with asbestos. We fasten it with twisted wire and temporarily fix it with two bricks: we put one on the back of the butt, the other on it and the door on top.

• We lay out the fifth row flat along the contour of the fourth, and the sixth on the edge. We wipe down the chimney walls with a wet rag.

• We lay the seventh row flat from three-fours (we cut off 3/4 of the whole brick with a grinder) to connect with the eighth row. The back wall is on the edge again.

• In the eighth row, we close the firebox door with two bricks above it. We install a beveled brick above the firebox to center the flame under the burner.

• We place the ninth row offset back (slightly) to keep the door open. Before laying, we lay out wet asbestos cord to seal the joints of the brick and the hob.
• In the tenth row we begin the formation of a chimney, which will gradually expand backwards. We will make an attached pipe, so as not to displace the center of gravity of the structure, or a mounted one made of light iron.

• In the eleventh row we lay a valve, seal it with an asbestos cord coated with clay.

• Next comes a quadruple chimney, which is connected to a light metal pipe.

• Now we take out the knockout bricks and clean the lower part of the chimney from debris.

• We close the gap between the first row of bricks and the floor with a metal L-shaped sleeve and nail the baseboard.
• We whitewash the stove or cover it with stove varnish, seal all the joints between the metal and the brick. Metal parts can be painted with black fireproof paint.

• We make a test fire with paper and small branches, then give it 2 weeks to dry.

As you can see, all the manipulations are not so difficult to do on your own. Material and labor costs are relatively small, and the construction does not take up much space.

At the same time, we received a heating and cooking device that will perfectly heat a small country house, give your cooking a unique taste and aroma of smoke, and create a pleasant atmosphere and comfort.

Advice! If there is an opportunity to invite a person more or less experienced in the stove business, at least as a consultant, be sure to take advantage of it, since building stoves from a book is quite difficult, it’s better to see it once.

Conclusion

Brick stoves are considered bulky, expensive and difficult to build. However, it is easy to verify specific examples that these opinions are somewhat exaggerated, and you can build an inexpensive, compact country stove out of brick, and do it yourself.

In the video presented in this article you will find additional information on this topic.