Ventilation in a bathhouse with your own hands? - easily, the event can be carried out by a man without professional skills. Why do you even need to pay attention to how to properly ventilate a bathhouse? The answer is obvious. Properly arranged ventilation in the bathhouse affects the maintenance of the temperature in the locker room, washing room, steam room, or relaxation room. The second, but no less significant impact, the movement of air masses has on safety wooden structureand the service life of its parts.

When designing a bath complex and its structure, it is necessary to take into account that ventilation of the bath complex should be carried out taking into account established rules, complemented by subtle nuances. There is plenty of information on how to make ventilation in a bathhouse with your own hands, with detailed instructions, photographs and videos. We will outline the main stages of installing air exchange inside the bath space and steam room below.

Properly arranged ventilation in the bathhouse is guaranteed to maintain the temperature at a comfortable level inside the steam room. Extending the service life of wooden structures.

The operation of the ventilation system based on the known laws of physics, as well as the ventilation scheme, is clear and does not raise questions. To fulfill the condition of air circulation in a constant mode, we need only a couple of holes of two types:

• exhaust;
• supply

Admission fresh air will provide a supply hole into the room. Best place The location of the supply ventilation in the bathhouse is near the stove, at a height as close as possible to the floor. This arrangement will ensure rapid heating of the incoming air, preventing it from cooling the room, maintaining a constant temperature.

Diagram of air movement inside the steam room.

Hood slots are necessary to remove superheated humid air and carbon monoxide (carbon monoxide) from the steam room. Exhaust openings should be located opposite, as high as possible, slightly below the edge of the ceiling. It is advisable to place both eyes opposite each other, for effective creation and maintaining continuous air exchange.

Attention! Do not plan to locate the exhaust vent directly in the ceiling! The hole for the exit of air masses in the ceiling leads to a sharp cooling of the bath, preventing hot masses from lingering.

With the concept of locating the supply and exhaust openings, everything is clear and there are no problems in organizing work on installing ventilation in the bathhouse with your own hands. But the problem of maintaining a high temperature in the steam room and at the same time effectively removing exhaust air and carbon monoxide remains open.

You should also pay attention that the ventilation in the bathhouse should work to maintain an acceptable temperature in the premises for hygiene procedures, in the dressing room, and other parts of the room: in the dressing room, in the wash room and in the rest room. And if you are faced with the task of implementing a ventilation scheme in a steam room with your own hands, you should think about doing the job correctly.

Correct air circulation scheme in the bathhouse

Basic types of ventilation

There are two main types of ventilation:

• natural;
• forced.

Which one to choose is determined depending on the design of the bathhouse and the volume of its premises.

Ventilation using an electronic control unit

Natural ventilation of the bath

It starts up on its own due to the difference in temperature and pressure inside the room and outside. The effectiveness of natural flows depends on the placement of air inlet and outlet openings. It is better and more optimal when the supply holes are located near the floor. Place them at a height of 200-350 mm, next to the stove. It is better to place the exhaust pipes of the hood on the opposite wall, 150-200 mm below the ceiling level.

Ventilation systems with natural air movement are not suitable for ventilating a steam room or sauna, since the cold air in this room accumulates at the bottom of the floor, and the hot air at the top. We need the hot streams to linger in the steam room as long as possible.

Adjusting the airflow movement is accompanied by difficulties, but when correct location If you install components of the ventilation system with your own hands, you can cope with this problem.

Natural ventilation is not desirable for a steam room; it is advisable to organize it in a recreation area

Forced ventilation

This type of air recirculation in a steam room in a Russian bath or Finnish sauna can be divided into two subtypes:

• Ventilation controls temperature and humidity using electronic system automation, by automatic adjustment supply and filtration. Similar systems expensive pleasure, and their use often does not correspond to the allocated budget.
• A combined ventilation system involves the combined use of conventional natural air exchange in combination with a forced fan.

Internal diagram ventilation ducts in the wall of the bathhouse

Ventilation in the bath depends on the type of construction

Natural air movement with the correct location of the ventilation holes and their sizes corresponding to the volume of the premises works well in a Russian bathhouse assembled from round logs or timber.

The design of the steam room frame must be airtight. Suitable for frame baths made of timber, use forced ventilation. Vents for supply are arranged in external wall steam rooms and must be additionally equipped with a blower fan. In bath structures made of brick or concrete blocks, it is possible to achieve high-quality air movement only through forced ventilation.

Depending on the material from which the bathhouse is constructed, the ventilation system is selected.

Planning ventilation in the bathhouse: subtleties and nuances

Before you move on to choosing a ventilation scheme in the bathhouse and arranging its design with your own hands, you need to understand the subtleties and nuances of the design.

Carefully! Even a slight error in the location of the air supply and exhaust holes leads to unpleasant consequences. In the steam room, the desired hot temperature will either decrease or the concentration of carbon monoxide (carbon monoxide) will increase.

The ventilation system is laid out at the design stage of structures - the necessary channels are planned and the location of the intake and exhaust windows is determined. During the construction of a bathhouse, adjustable windows are installed after the decorative cladding of the room. The organization of air mass exchange in the room and the question “How to make ventilation in a bathhouse” must be resolved at the design stage.

Ventilation ducts for a dressing room, bathroom, steam room, rest room, as well as openings for the supply of fresh air and removal of a mixture of carbon monoxide, including moist air masses, must be installed at the appropriate stages of construction. At the final finishing stage of the premises, valves and grilles are installed to control the size of the supply and exhaust openings and the cross-sections of the ventilation ducts.

Basically, the effective functioning of bath ventilation is influenced by two factors:

• ventilation window size. Both supply and exhaust air openings are determined by the amount of space, be it a dressing room, washing room, steam room or rest room;
• location of slots relative to each other.

1. Ventilation hole size

The dimensions of the cracks depend on the number and volume of rooms: dressing room, steam room, bath room or relaxation room. It is necessary to select the optimal size of these holes, as well as to ensure the possibility of its adjustment. To adjust the gaps in the holes, install a door flap and grille. The exhaust opening is made with approximately the same dimensions as the dimensions of the supply opening. In any case, the “exhaust” should not be less than the “supply”, otherwise it is impossible to ensure a complete outflow of moist and carbon dioxide air from the steam room.

In the photo on the left. ventilation hole with a slider to regulate the amount of fresh air. Keep in mind that with a large number of ventilation windows, it is more difficult to heat the sauna room to the correct temperature.

Large ventilation windows lead to excessive fuel or electricity consumption. In addition, problems arise with adjusting the cross-section of ventilation ducts. It is difficult to relax if you constantly have to change the position of each valve.

IMPORTANT! The dimensions of the ventilation hole are calculated as 24 cm2 per 1 m3 of the volume of the ventilated area. For a good flow of fresh air from outside, the outlet lug should be larger than the inlet lug.

If the area of ​​the ventilation lugs is insufficient, the temperature, humidity and carbon monoxide concentrations in the room may rise to critical levels.

The required size of the ventilation opening is designed at the rate of 24 sq.cm per 1 cubic meter of bathhouse volume

2. Position of ventilation holes relative to each other

The functioning of any ventilation system is based on replacing a mass of hot air with cold air. The movement occurs under the pressure of cold air from outside, since it is heavier. It remains only to provide for the possibility of adjusting the direction of the flow of hot air coming from the stove installed in the bathhouse.

For this reason, ventilation in the steam room is not limited to equipping one supply hole. It is necessary to plan two windows. To optimize the heat flow, it is enough to use a valve to adjust the gaps in the holes to a certain width.

Schematic representation of the placement of ventilation holes in a steam room. Influx of fresh air and removal of contaminated air masses.

Ventilation in a Russian bath

Assemble ventilation in the bathhouse with my own hands, it’s easier if you follow a simple rule. The quality indicators of the ventilation system in the bathhouse are based on initial stage design work. In the bathhouse, the circulating air flows in the rooms have a pronounced temperature difference, level discomfort from this mixture is the main task.

IMPORTANT! A comfortable atmosphere in a bathhouse depends not only on the absence sudden changes temperature “horizontally”, i.e. when moving from one room to another: from a relaxation room to a locker room or from a steam room to a wash room. Synchronous mixing of air masses in the vertical plane is necessary: ​​the air temperature near the floor should not be significantly lower than the temperature at the level of human height.

The microclimate in the bathhouse is directly influenced by the number, size and location of ventilation windows.

The uniformity of the supply, mixing and removal of air masses depends on the number of supply and exhaust openings, their size and location relative to each other, as well as heating devices and additional equipment.

Block diagram of a ventilation device in a bathhouse

Any ventilation system in a bathhouse is designed with one purpose - maintaining temperature, humidity and freshness of the air in the steam room. The bathhouse premises, especially the steam room, are exposed to water and steam, so periodic ventilation and drying are required. But ventilation and drying will be ineffective if proper ventilation in the bathhouse is not organized. Proper and continuous ventilation of the steam room significantly reduces the effects of wood absorbing moisture.

Ventilation in the bathhouse controls the temperature, humidity and freshness of the air in the steam room.

Do-it-yourself floor ventilation in a bathhouse

Air exchange in baths and saunas is also ensured by a ventilated floor.
in constant contact with water they lose their appearance and become unusable after 4 years. Ventilation requirements organized by flooring:

• it is necessary to create a flow and make a small vent in the foundation part of the building;
• The floor should be laid leaving a gap of 1 cm between the boards;
• position the holes supply air in parallel walls (remembering to protect the control grilles from rodents);
• it is advisable to make the stove work as an additional hood; to do this, you need to plan the level of the finished floor above the vent;
• After completing the water procedures, it is necessary to leave the door to the steam room open until the floor in the room becomes dry.

Ventilation in the bath – general scheme systems

Ventilation in the sauna dressing room

There is no direct contact with water in the dressing room. That is why, making ventilation with your own hands in the wardrobe room, armed with photographs and videos with instructions, will not be difficult.

Use natural or hybrid ventilation. Use a fan to supply fresh air. Install vents with ventilators that require direct access to the street and a power cable connection to the power supply.

Natural and combined ventilation is allowed in the dressing room.

Ventilation in the washing area

To optimize air exchange in the washing room, a forced ventilation system is used. It is driven by an electric motor. The air flow is removed in the direction of the vestibule (vestibule). The air supply and exhaust ducts are installed with the same cross-section. section. The inlet openings are located above ground level (2 m) and the outlet pipes are led to the roof.

Ventilation in a steam bath

Special requirements are imposed on the microclimate of the steam room. The steam room must be warmed up quickly, while maintaining optimal level humidity and draft-free. Thus, for a steam room, the actual position and dimensions of the inlet and outlet channels that are used in the construction of the bath are very important.

To regulate the inflow and outflow of air, valves in the ventilated openings are sufficient. A large volume of space will most likely require the use of a blower or exhaust fan.

Scheme: ventilation in the steam room

We have given typical schematic diagrams for designing ventilation in a bathhouse. Videos and images, attached instructions, will certainly help those who want to build a bathhouse complex on their own. We wish you a speedy embodiment of your dreams into concrete forms!

Ventilation of the bathhouse must be discussed separately, and preparations must be made in advance to create proper air circulation inside. A change of oxygen is needed like a fish needs water, if compared in these allegories, and the general well-being of the steamer and the value of the process itself depend on how correctly the ventilation system is built.

The circulation of fresh air provides an influx of new energy in the bathhouse, everyone who is inside will feel better, and the smell of sweat will not be “heard.” Therefore, there is simply no doubt about the need to create at least natural ventilation.

What is ventilation in a bathhouse?

We immediately need to remove the question of the need for forced air ventilation. For these purposes, expensive equipment is usually used that pumps air into the room. But their use is not always justified, especially in small baths. Firstly, not everyone will be able to install this type of ventilation, and secondly, they are not needed in a small country bathhouse. They are used in saunas or in the construction of brick, multi-story baths, when natural ventilation is simply not enough to freshen the air. Tunnels for air lines are laid in advance, and after construction is completed, related equipment is connected.

In a small country bathhouse, even if it is made of brick, natural ventilation is quite sufficient, but only built according to the rules. Things are simpler in wooden baths. For example, in a frame building or a bathhouse made of timber, fresh air, albeit in small quantities, will flow through the inter-crown connections. And wood is a natural material and it “breathes” by passing oxygen through itself. In general, when building a small bathhouse, natural ventilation is created on its own. But it still needs some minor modifications to help the oxygen change a little.

How to provide additional air access?

Natural mechanisms act as remembering ventilation elements: windows and doors. In some cases, it is enough to open them a little to ventilate the room. But this is not always convenient, and it is better to act more rationally by ensuring constant, controlled access of air. To do this, special openings (vents) with floating valves are made in the walls. They are located in the lower or upper part near the stove in the steam room.

But by no means in the middle. With air circulation and a constant change of steam from hot to cold, it tends to move from bottom to top, where it will go out into the street through organized vents. Additionally, they are equipped with valves so that, if necessary, you can fully open the window for ventilation or regulate the air change by slightly closing the hole.

But this is an incomplete system. On the opposite wall they make a hood. This is a hole that must be kept open at all times. It is slightly smaller in size than the vent. The height of the exhaust vent is approximately 30–40 cm from the floor. The exit of this window can be made into the washing compartment so that it warms up faster.

Of course, a large number of holes do not fit into the design very originally, and usually the door in the steam room works behind the hood. That is, one vent is also made on the wall, and instead of an exhaust hole, the design of the vent functions. Initially, the door to the steam room is made 5–10 cm smaller in size so that there is an outlet for air from below. This will ensure the outflow of hot steam, warm up the washing room and not disturb the overall design of the steam room. This is the simplest option for natural air ventilation, working according to the laws of physics.

There is a small clarification in this scheme. The larger the steam room, the larger the diameter of the vent. To calculate the size, there are certain standards: when subtracting the total area, approximately 20–25 cm/2 of ventilation area is taken for each cubic meter. Knowing these standards, it will not be difficult to calculate the size of the vent. It is recommended to refresh the air in the steam room 5-7 times in one hour or as needed if you feel heavy breathing.

Ventilation of the floor of the washing compartment

Here you can refresh the air by opening a window, and the floor requires special ventilation due to the constant drainage of water through it. This process, without natural ventilation, will lead to rapid rotting of the wood or delamination of concrete. To reduce negative factors, small vents are also made at floor level. The exhaust is carried out by opening a window, a vent, or, if an external stove is installed, the movement of the air will be provided by the operation of the ventilation pipe. You can consider the option of installing a riser made of asbestos-cement pipe. She is taken out through the walls, above the roof of the bathhouse.

Common mistakes when designing ventilation

The basic concepts of natural ventilation are clear. There is nothing complicated about the organization; all that remains is to talk about what not to do in this work.

Many people, without fully understanding the process of creating a hood, make a lot of stupid mistakes. For example, in a steam room it is impossible to place the supply and exhaust openings at the same level. The result is a vicious circle for hot air, and the floor will always be cool. Uninformed people begin to sin that the owner did not make the floor in the bathhouse correctly, and some believe this, and begin to look for the reason, dismantling the coverings and laying Additional materials for insulation. But the problem ultimately lies only in the incorrect location of the vents.

More about the location. Some people confuse exhaust hole with inlet. And when creating ventilation, placing the first one under the ceiling, and the second below. This will work, of course, but it will take more time to warm up the steam room. If you make this arrangement, then there should be bolts on both windows.

That's all the tricks. Be careful about creating natural ventilation, and you will have light steam.

Ventilation in a bathhouse is a mandatory design element. Without full air exchange and fresh air flow, even the highest quality wooden building can become completely unusable in 2-3 years. However, even in this short period of time, steamers will have to enjoy such “delights” as dampness, bad smell, lack of fresh air.

Therefore, the installation of a ventilation system must be approached with all responsibility. It is not difficult. Moreover, in most small private baths (especially with the “Russian bath” mode), natural ventilation is the most optimal. And its construction, unlike its forced analogue, will not require the installation of expensive fans. And in some baths it is generally created “on its own” - only due to suitable design steam room

How does the natural ventilation system work?

Natural ventilation is driven by air convection, which occurs when there is a difference in pressure (temperature) in the room (bath) and outside.

According to the laws of physics, heated air in a room always rises, and cold air descends to the floor. The main task of ventilation in a bathhouse is to provide an influx of fresh air (cold) and displace exhaust air (warm). Therefore, when planning natural ventilation, the supply opening is usually located below the exhaust opening. Then the warm air rises and comes out through the exhaust shaft. At the same time, a vacuum (low pressure) is created in the room and fresh cool air is drawn in through the inflow near the floor. Gradually it warms up again, rises and displaces a portion of exhaust air through the hood. This ensures continuous convection and natural ventilation.

Vents, vents, and a stove chimney can be used as hoods in a bathhouse with natural ventilation. The flow of air is carried out through the crowns of the walls (in log baths), slightly open doors, and ventilation holes. Both supply and exhaust openings (vents, vents) are equipped with shutters or adjustable grilles. This helps control the air exchange in the room and prevent drafts.

There are several options for natural ventilation. Each of them has its own advantages, special functionality and some restrictions on use.

Option 1. Burst ventilation - ventilation

In small Russian baths, burst ventilation is common. This is ordinary ventilation, which is performed either after bath procedures or between visits to the steam room. Burst ventilation promotes rapid air change and drying of steam room surfaces.

During burst ventilation, the role of ventilation holes is played by a door and a window located on opposite walls. To change the air, they are opened for a short time after steaming (or between visits to the steam room). Depending on which direction the pressure difference is directed, air will move from the window to the door or vice versa.

The role of burst ventilation is to freshen the air in the steam room, but not to cool the walls. Therefore, the ventilation time is short - 1-2 minutes is enough.

Option #2. Ventilation with outflow through the chimney

A stove-heater with a chimney can become a driving force for ventilation. When fuel burns, exhaust air is drawn into the furnace ash pan and exits through the chimney. In order to allow fresh air to flow in, make a gap of about 5-10 mm at the bottom of the door. Or they don’t close it tightly during procedures. In log-house bathhouses, when the fire burns in the stove, air from the street is drawn in through loosely fitted lower rims.

Ventilation by means of air outflow through the chimney is only possible while maintaining the fire in the stove. If fuel combustion is not maintained during vaping (for example, in black saunas or in a short-term oven), air change will not be performed. A more versatile ventilation system will be required.

Option #3. Air exchange through vents

Air exchange performed through special vents is a universal type of natural ventilation. It allows you to gradually change the air in the steam room several times during the steaming period (ideally 5-6 times per hour). With proper planning of such ventilation, drafts and a decrease in surface temperature will not be observed.

The exhaust vent is usually located under the ceiling, above the top shelf. It measures 15-20 cm and can be square or round. The hood is closed with a removable plug or a sliding damper (door), with which you can change the size of the hood and the degree of air exchange.

A few more rules:

• It is not advisable to place the ventilation holes at the same level opposite each other. There is a high probability that fresh air entering the steam room will immediately fly out into the hood. This excludes full air circulation, but leads to the formation of a draft.
• The linear dimensions of the hood, ideally, should coincide with the dimensions of the inlet opening. Or be more. If the hood dimensions deviate downward, a new fresh air will not go to the bathhouse.
• If you want to increase the outflow of exhaust air, the size of the hood makes the supply vent larger. Or they arrange 2 hoods for 1 supply hole.

To ensure the flow of clean air into the steam room, an inlet opening is installed, usually 0.2-0.4 m from the floor surface. It can be on the same wall as the hood, or on the opposite side. It is advisable to be near the stove so that the incoming air has time to heat up and enters the steaming zone already warm. The supply opening is covered with a ventilation grille so that air is drawn into the room in separate streams and not in a continuous stream.

Step-by-step installation instructions

The classic operating procedure is as follows:

1. Two holes with transverse dimensions of 100-200 mm are made in the walls of the bathhouse. It is advisable to form the vents at the construction stage, so that later you do not have to carve them into the finished walls. One hole is made behind the stove (or next to it), at a distance of 20 cm from the floor. The other is on the opposite wall, diagonally, at a distance of 20 cm from the ceiling.
2. Boxes are installed in the holes. They can be bought ready-made - made of metal or plastic. In log baths, it is better to use wooden boxes made from boards.
3. A ventilation grille is placed on the supply opening, and a damper is placed on the exhaust opening. If one of the openings faces the street, with outside An insect net is installed on the box.

But this order of work is not the only correct one - it all depends on what kind of structure you have and what kind of air duct scheme you have chosen.

Advantages and disadvantages of such a system

Among the advantages of natural ventilation, the most significant are:

• simple device and easy installation;
• low cost - natural ventilation does not require the installation of expensive forced fans;
• economical operation - allows you to avoid spending on electricity;
• reliability – the absence of mechanical devices makes natural ventilation practically “eternal”, not subject to breakdowns and not requiring repairs.

There are also disadvantages:

• dependence of the ventilation strength on the temperature difference in the steam room and outside;
• in autumn and winter, cold air coming from the supply openings reduces the temperature in the steam room, and drafts may occur;
• smells from the street.

Agree, the shortcomings are insignificant. In a small bathhouse located on its own site, natural ventilation is the most rational decision. If there are no swimming pools or large washrooms inside, there is no point in overpaying for mechanical fans (for forced air exchange). If for some reason natural ventilation does not cope with the functions assigned to it, you can transform it into mechanical ventilation at any time - just install fans on the openings!

Availability of ventilation – required condition for a comfortable presence in the bathhouse. To bring in fresh air and remove exhaust air, regular ventilation is most often performed - opening windows, doors, and vents. This type of ventilation is called natural. Unfortunately, it is not always effective. For example, in large baths with a washing compartment (swimming pool), forced ventilation is more effective to eliminate unpleasant odors, quickly dry surfaces and create an optimal microclimate.

• 3 Methods of organization and ready-made schemes
  • 3.1 Scheme #1. Exhaust ventilation
  • 3.2 Scheme #2. Forced ventilation
  • 3.3 Scheme #3. Supply and exhaust ventilation
• 4 Some installation features

The principle of operation of such a system

Any ventilation system consists of at least two openings. One of them is supply, the other is exhaust. Fresh cold air, entering the steam room through the inlet, mixes with warm “local” air. The heat flow is distributed throughout the room. In this case, the exhaust air is pushed towards the exhaust hole and removed through it to the street or to other rooms of the bathhouse.

If natural reasons for the circulation of air flows are not enough, a forced ventilation system is installed. Its essence is that fans are installed on one or both ventilation openings - supply or exhaust. They provide forced air movement. The supply fan draws in fresh air from outside with its blades, and the exhaust fan, on the contrary, pushes out the exhaust air.

Often, grilles (slotted, louvered) or plugs are placed on ventilation ducts, with the help of which the size of the opening and the intensity of air flow circulation are changed.

If the supply opening is open less than the exhaust opening, then ventilation increases. If the air flow speed reaches 0.3 m/s, a feeling of draft occurs. This cannot be allowed. Ideally, the air movement should be smooth and slow, which means that the ventilation holes should open approximately equally.

Types of forced ventilation

There are the following types of forced ventilation (depending on the purpose of the fans):

• exhaust;
• supply;
• supply and exhaust.

Let's talk in more detail about each.

Exhaust ventilation

In design exhaust ventilation there is an exhaust fan. It is installed on the exhaust vent of the ventilation system. There is also a supply hole in this type of system. Usually these are vents with ventilation grilles, windows with plugs, a gap under the door, etc. Exhaust ventilation reduces the air pressure in the steam room (creates a vacuum), which is compensated by the influx of fresh outside air.

Exhaust ventilation effectively removes harmful gases, unpleasant odors, and excess moisture. This is especially true in showers, washrooms, rooms with a swimming pool, and sauna bathrooms.

The exhaust ventilation device is simple. It usually includes a fan and a ventilation duct. Sometimes, when a powerful hood is used, the system is supplemented with a silencer.

Forced ventilation

Supply ventilation almost completely copies the exhaust system. But the fan is installed not to remove used air, but to bring in fresh outside air.

When the supply system operates, the pressure in the room increases, and accordingly the exhaust air is drawn out through exhaust ducts, doors, vents, gaps in the floor, ceiling, and walls.

Supply fans work to draw in cool (and in winter - cold!) street air. To prevent this from reducing the temperature in the steam room, the ventilation system is equipped with special air heaters. Filters are used to clean the supply air.

Supply and exhaust ventilation

This is a combined system consisting of a forced air supply device and mechanical exhaust. In addition to fans, it can be equipped with recuperators, filters, and silencers. It is possible to make the supply and exhaust ventilation completely mechanical by equipping it with an automatic control unit.

The design of supply and exhaust ventilation is the most complex. It is very important at the design stage to calculate the air exchange in bath room. The amount of displaced air must be equal to the amount of supply air. This is ideal. But sometimes this balance is deliberately disrupted to create air flows of the desired direction. For example, if there is a bathroom in the bathhouse, then to prevent unpleasant odors from entering other rooms, a reduced pressure is artificially created in it. By installing a high power hood. After this, the air from the higher pressure room will independently be directed to the lower pressure zone. That is, go to the bathroom, and not to the steam room, showers, sinks.

Methods of organization and ready-made schemes

Let's look at a few ready-made schemes performing forced ventilation.

Scheme #1. Exhaust ventilation

Behind the stove, 0.3 m from the floor, a supply ventilation hole is installed. The exhaust fan is installed on the opposite wall, a little higher - 0.4-0.5 m from the floor. Fresh air, entering the steam room through the inlet, passes through the stove, warms up and rises to the ceiling. Gradually cooling, it goes down and is drawn in by the exhaust fan. This forced ventilation scheme is quite popular due to the simplicity of the device and the rapid change of air flows.

Scheme #2. Forced ventilation

In a large steam room, for a quick change of air, it is advisable to equip supply ventilation. For better circulation, air flows are directed not from bottom to top, as with natural ventilation, but from top to bottom. An inlet with a fan is installed behind the stove, 0.5 m above its level. The exhaust hole is placed at the bottom of the opposite wall, at a distance of 0.2-0.3 cm from the floor.

Supply ventilation according to this scheme works as follows. Using a fan, cold air is forced into the steam room through the inlet. Once within the range of the stove, it quickly warms up and rises to the ceiling. Cooler currents are forced downwards and exit through the exhaust vent.

Scheme #3. Supply and exhaust ventilation

This diagram is intended for ventilation equipment in a steam room and shower. A supply vent with a fan is placed above the stove. The minimum distance from the heater is 50 cm. The exhaust hole (without a fan) is made at next wall near the floor, away from the stove. In this case, the diameter of the exhaust air duct should be 2 times larger than the diameter of the supply air duct.

Another exhaust vent with a fan is located in the shower room adjacent to the steam room, under the ceiling. Air enters the shower room from the steam room through the gap under the door.

Some installation features

After choosing a ventilation scheme, it’s time to proceed to its installation. To do this you will need the following devices and materials:

• Fan. Heat-resistant, moisture-resistant fans with variable speed control are suitable for baths. Depending on the installation method, they can be channel or radial. Duct ones are installed directly in the air duct, and radial ones - at its outlet.
• Ventilation box. It can be hard - made of plastic or galvanized steel. Or flexible, made in the form corrugated pipe on a metal frame.
• Ventilation grates. Material of manufacture - according to your preference.

The ventilation system is installed according to the following plan:

1. According to the chosen scheme, holes are made in the walls (top and bottom). It is advisable that they be planned at the stage of building the bathhouse.
2. Ventilation ducts are installed in the holes.
3. Mount (in the box or outside the hole) a fan - exhaust or supply.
4. Connect the fan to the electrical network. The connection diagram will depend on desired method turning on the fan. The fan can turn on in the following ways: simultaneously with the lighting, by pressing a separate switch, through a motion sensor. Shutting down can also be done in different ways. For example, either when the lights are turned off, or after a scheduled time (when using a timer).
5. Ventilation grilles are placed on the ventilation holes.

Here is an example of fan installation:

Proper installation of forced ventilation will help you organize active air exchange in the bathhouse. As a result, you will get rid of unpleasant odors in washrooms and bathrooms, ensuring “ easy breath"in the steam room, protect yourself from defeat carbon monoxide.

Natural ventilation in the bathhouse: device options, pros and cons

Natural ventilation in a Russian bath is as necessary as air for fish. Imagine that you are sitting in a steam room, add water to the heater, it seems to feel good, your body burns, you feel a pleasant tingling sensation, but breathing becomes more and more difficult. It seems like you want to warm up some more, but the body cannot cope with such loads without oxygen.

Today there are many proposals for installing forced ventilation.

But this is unnecessary for a small bathhouse, where natural ventilation will cope with this task. It should be noted that this not only creates coziness and comfortable comfort for staying in the bathhouse, but also additional support for finishing. After all, the air coming from outside dries interior lining walls in the bathhouse, preserving the structure and appearance, protecting against the appearance of putrefactive deposits and unpleasant odors. According to these factors, there is simply no alternative to natural ventilation in the bathhouse.

How natural ventilation works

During installation, all possible plans for the passage of inlet openings and the gradual movement of air are worked out, the access of which should not affect the internal microclimate in the bathhouse. Not only the temperature, but also the air pressure should be normal.

The correct location and operation of ventilation will allow you to maintain it in tidy condition for as long as possible. interior decoration. The execution process itself is simple, the main thing is to delve into it and rationally arrange all the conductive pipes and air ducts inside the wall blocks and bring them inside the room, so as not to create rarefied air. Unlike forced ventilation in a bathhouse, there is no need to purchase any expensive systems or mechanisms. Everything is done literally from available tools.

Natural ventilation will work when there is a temperature difference inside the bathhouse and outside. That is, when warming up the interior. According to the law of physics, which raises warm air to the ceiling, the task of natural ventilation is to displace the latter outside and bring in fresh air from there. According to this, the outlet openings are located as high as possible. When heated, the air will find itself supply valve and rushes out. At the same time, a rarefied pressure is created inside the room, thanks to which fresh air takes the place of hot air.

pair. Then it gradually warms up and comes out again. A kind of circulation of hot and cold air. Thanks to this convection, a continuous process of natural air ventilation is created.

The accompanying elements of the bath, which are mandatory structures, contribute to the injection. These are vents, vents in the underground. The chimney in the wall plays a significant role in ventilation. In log buildings, the crowns of logs promote circulation; in addition, you can temporarily open windows and vents to increase air flow. All openings equipped with closing and opening mechanisms are equipped with grilles and shutters that control the opening level in order to regulate the air flow.

Three device options

Each type is good in its own way and applicable in certain conditions. They all differ in functionality and have some operating restrictions.

Burst ventilation

It is carried out by temporarily opening door and window openings, vents or vents. This method is common in Russian baths. When it is organized, a one-time and rapid change of air in the room occurs. An open door and a window on the opposite wall usually work in tandem. Used as an option for changing air between bath procedures. Burst ventilation, single inexpensive option, for ventilating baths made of timber or other types of wood. After washing, they usually leave everything open to dry the interior.

Organization of chimney outflow

Here the heater stove takes on the role of savior of the interior. During the combustion process, hot air rising to the ceiling is drawn into the ash pan and discharged out through the chimney. The mode change is made through a gap left in all doors. In order not to cool the room, this distance should not exceed 10 cm. You can also leave the door slightly open if you need to let in more fresh air.

In log structures, stove ventilation is created through cracks in the crowns. Such a system will only work when the stove is operating and the fuel is burning. This method is not very successful, so if it is necessary to urgently ventilate the room, the salvo option is used.

Ventilation through vents

Most the best option, carried out by removing air ducts through the foundation of the bathhouse or the basement level. During one wash every hour and a half, the air is renewed at least 6 times. With proper ventilation through vents, washing will be as comfortable as possible. There is no need to open the doors slightly to create a more favorable atmosphere, and the steamer will be busy only with his own business.

But here it is necessary correct layout and choice of materials. The exhaust openings are made from a plastic pipe with a diameter of no more than 20 cm. The shapes are not regulated; it can be an oval or a square. To regulate the air flow through them, it is necessary to install sliding dampers. When washing them

open halfway, but for ventilation after procedures, you can open it completely.

Advantages of supply structures

Each of the presented options has its pros and cons, and the owner has the right to independently choose which one he likes, guided by the type of structure and the presence or absence window designs in the bath. But if we summarize natural ventilation, then the following points can be highlighted as positive qualities:

• the most simple options in terms of arrangement on your own;
• no need to purchase additional devices and install electrical wiring to connect fans;
• durability due to the absence of mechanical elements.

We can’t help but touch on the downsides.

Not a single mechanism is immune from these factors, and the first thing that can be distinguished is the natural factor. The fact is that it is possible to ensure a comfortable temperature difference only with a strong ratio of air levels inside and outside. Simply put, in hot weather, until the air in the steam room warms up to its maximum level, natural circulation simply will not be felt.

In the autumn-winter period, with a relative difference in temperature, indoors even when not working sauna stove there will be cold air and it will take more time to warm up the washing compartment. We'll have to close the vents for a while. In addition, with natural circulation, you are not immune from odors coming from outside.

Significant disadvantages, but given that practically no money is spent on organizing ventilation, you can close your eyes to them and regulate air flows by opening and closing the dampers. And if you do not plan to build a pool, then it is simply not practical to overpay for the installation of a forced system.

Proper sauna ventilation is the key to a healthy, beneficial procedure

Everyone knows how important it is to maintain optimal humidity and temperature parameters in the steam room. But in addition to these fundamental characteristics, there is one more condition on which our health and the durability of the structure itself depend - thoughtful ventilation of the bathhouse.

It would seem like a paradox: in order to achieve the desired temperature regime, you have to carefully insulate and warm up the room, but then voluntarily let cold air from the street into such a protected “warm” zone. How to make sure that the ventilation device in the bathhouse does not spoil its “fragile” microclimate?

Let's look together at all the nuances of this issue and find out the exact “recipe” for proper air exchange in the steam room. But first, we have prepared for readers a “vaccination against carelessness” - a story about what will happen if the ventilation of the steam room in the bathhouse is improperly adjusted.

How much will ventilation defects cost the owner of a bathhouse?

Skeptics may object that our ancestors built durable “steam huts” and easily managed without modern ventilation features. Indeed, ventilation in the Russian bathhouse worked due to the free fastening of the lower rims of the logs, through which fresh air entered the room. The outflow of the output was carried out through a window, slightly open doors (for a black firebox) or through a chimney with the stove constantly running (for a white firebox).

But modern structures are aimed at rational use energy resources and are more complex in their design, therefore their “air service” must be appropriate. What awaits a bathhouse if its timely and constant “wind blowing” is neglected?

• QUICK WEAR OF THE BATH

Heat, steam and sudden temperature changes are factors that have truly destructive powers that can undermine the “health” of any building material. To mitigate this aggression, the structure requires the adoption of maximum protective measures, which include the bathhouse ventilation system.

Wood is the main building material for finishing a steam room; in such harsh operating conditions it can last no more than 20 years. But even this average durability indicator is not so easy to achieve without intensive air exchange in the premises. If the level of fresh air inflow is insufficient, after 5-6 years of operation of the bathhouse, its owner will be forced to replace the entire casing of the steam room. And this is the floor, panels, ceiling and, quite possibly, their warm “layer” will be damaged during dismantling. As a result of the repair work, the bathhouse owner’s wallet will “lose weight” by a considerable amount.

• UNPLEASANT SMELL IN THE BATH

Due to the lack of fresh air in the steam room, the wooden paneling will begin to “age” intensively and will delight you with a pungent and unpleasant odor even before “retirement”. The “aroma” will take over the room so strongly that it will become business card your bathhouse. You will not be able to get rid of it, because any aggressive chemicals in this building are strictly prohibited.

Do not think that only a tree faces such a sad fate. Any building material during the period of “decay” will not please the owner of the building with a pleasant smell. Everyone knows the no less cloying “aroma” of dampness and mustiness that “lives” in brick buildings.

• HARMFUL AIR IN THE BATH

Heat and steam cause intense sweating in humans. Some of the decay products evaporate and complement the atmosphere of the room. It turns out that over time, the air in the steam room will simply be poisoned by the substances that we are so eager to get rid of with the help of this therapeutic procedure (slags, toxins). Our lungs, instead of a healing air “portion”, will receive a dirty “mixture”. Naturally, there can be no talk of any health benefits from relaxing in a stuffy steam room. Moreover, the harmful “cocktail” will be enhanced by fungal and mold spores, which will inevitably appear on the walls, ceiling and floor of a room deprived of proper air exchange.

Greetings, dear master. You built a house, gave birth to a son, planted a tree near the house, it’s time to think about your health. Yes, yes, about your health and your family. It's time to build a bathhouse!

How to build, from what materials, where to choose a place - you decide for yourself - you are the boss, and I will tell you about probably the most important and important part of construction - ventilation. Ideally, the calculation and organization of the ventilation system should be carried out at the construction planning stage. But in real life there can be many options:

• the bathhouse is being built, but they forgot about ventilation
• construction was completed, and then they remembered
• installation of a steam room inside the house

Building a bathhouse without ventilation is not a rare case; you should not sprinkle ashes on your head and think that you are stupider than others. Not at all, at least you remembered, and that’s already something. Adjusting air circulation is possible even if it was not provided for.

It is not advisable to rely on burst ventilation: the accumulated heat does not escape with the door open, but, according to the laws of physics, turns into steam and settles as condensation on the walls and floor. Hello fungus! It’s a pity, of course, because the redevelopment, and that’s what it is, will cost a pretty penny. And when in the house? Is the house brick?

• the air is enriched with oxygen
• optimal temperature is created
• removing excess moisture
• removal of accumulated carbon dioxide

The diameter of the ventilation performed affects the quality of the process: a low draft force will not allow the entire system to operate fully, which will reduce all work done to zero, and an excessively powerful draft, on the contrary, will not allow the creation of an optimal temperature. Proper ventilation requires indentation:

• for supply air flow 10-30 cm from the floor
• for the upper hood 20-30 cm from the ceiling

Do you need a steam room?

Yes, definitely yes. This famous and very useful structure is being erected with the main goal: healing. Steamed skin allows accumulated toxins and dirt to pass through itself, while simultaneously saturating the body with oxygen, and what kind of oxygen? we're talking about in a tightly sealed room?

A steam room without ventilation is more like a pressure chamber with carbon dioxide; within a few minutes the unbearable heat and lack of oxygen will drive you out of the steam room. Arranging an outlet with natural drainage or forced exhaust depends on your technical capabilities and your capabilities. Main. The hood from the stove, whether gas or wood, must have a separate overpass.

Ventilation in a steam room in a Russian bath

The Russian bath differs from the sauna in the principle of operation of the steam room, the method of heating and ventilation. The bathhouse was heated “black” and “white”. In the first version, the stove was heated, the stones laid on top of the hearth were heated, the burnt coals were raked out and carried away, the heat came from the stones, and the air outflowed through a door or window. In the second option, the stove worked during the park, the smoke came out through the chimney, and excess heat also escaped through it. IN modern bath In addition to the chimney, additional exits are used.

There are many options: in the finished room, connect the steam vent outlet with existing air ducts; through other rooms, when the wiring goes inside the house, bring a separate pipe to the street by drilling a hole in the wall.

The location of the holes varies depending on the desired result: a lower hood means the temperature rises faster, a higher one means better air circulation.

Ventilation in the steam room

Inlet and outlet diameter

Basement. The steam room is ready. The only opening is the front door. Already good. We use it to organize supply ventilation. It’s easier to cut a hole at the bottom of the door with a jigsaw, install blinds and grilles.

Better yet, in front of the door, on the side of the steam room, build a box with outlets from sewer pipes under the stove and to the side. Use the grille with a valve – in winter time the air is colder, warming up the room will take longer.

The air flow from under the stove will rise upward, capturing heat, and an additional draft of fresh air will flow from the pipe moved to the side (in winter, you can tightly close it with a valve). Next, we cut a window to Europe. Kidding. Outside.

WITH outside We mark the approximate place where the hood needs to be made. Above the ground - lucky, below the level - we remove the soil, make a dig (in order not to miss, it is better to take it wider). A concrete wall or brickwork can be drilled with a special tool. It is unlikely to be found by someone other than a specialist.

As an option, rent a tool. You go to the Internet, open sites specializing in such a service, and place an order. But you and I are simple people, we will break through. A hammer drill is not a rare thing, I have one, I think you will have one too.

We go down to the basement again. I managed to sheathe the walls - no problem, we’ll remove the sheathing. On the bare wall, use a marker to mark the location where the pipe exits. Be careful when choosing the diameter! Above I have already given the calculation formula. You can take a piece of pipe and trace it around. Having retreated slightly around the perimeter of the circle (the hole should ultimately be slightly larger than the diameter of the pipe), a through hole is drilled with a hammer drill, followed by the next one after 2-3 cm, and so on in a circle.

Use a chisel to break the formed lintels - that’s it, the opening is ready. You take out the remains of the wall, trim the edges and walls of the tunnel, and try to push the pipe through. Happened? Cool. No - pay attention to what’s in the way, knock out the unnecessary.

When the wall is made of timber, the technology for cutting the opening is based on the same principle as on brickwork, with a small difference: instead of a chisel, a jigsaw is used. Sewer pipes are not suitable for the exhaust pipe; galvanization is required.

We insert the section into the opening, fill the voids with insulation (glass wool, mineral wool), we sew up the walls with wood. The gap between the casing and the pipe must be foamed. We make a box. It is needed to regulate the degree and height of heating of the room. The thickness of the box corresponds to the diameter of the pipe it is connected to; the length depends on the height of the steam room. Two windows are cut out on the box, which are equipped with a blind latch. One window is located approximately twenty cm from the ceiling, the bottom one is located 50-60 cm from the floor.

When the stove is flooded, both exhaust dampers in the steam room are closed, subsequently the lower one opens first, and then, if necessary, the upper one. This way you can easily adjust the temperature right during the procedures.

Using a built-in fan will improve the flow of hot air from the room. Don’t forget about the grilles at the air duct outlet to prevent dry leaves and other debris from getting in. By the way, you need to clean your hood at least once a year.

Basta became widespread. The system has taken root due to its ease of installation and efficient heat distribution. But it’s better to install it initially, at the construction stage. The above diagram and air flow circulation device are radically different from those I described earlier in this article.

The principle of bastu is an inverted glass. As you can see, both the supply air duct and the exhaust air duct are almost at the same height - just above the floor level.

The lower pipe through which air enters the steam room originates from the street, the outlet is located behind the stove - this is actually the draft. The outlet of heated air is located strictly diagonally from the oven, located below the bench. Warm air from the stove rises, creates increased pressure under the ceiling, and in the opposite corner it cools down a little and, falling, enters the ventilation.

The main difference is that the air temperature is approximately the same across the height of the room, whereas in a Russian bath the upper bench is hotter and the lower bench is more comfortable.

When heated air masses rush to the lower point of the hood, they take heavy moist air with them and dry the floors faster.

The downside here is the dependence of effective operation on the strength of the wind outside, when the air blown into the exhaust pipe interferes with the natural outflow, moreover, it can reverse it. Then the steam room will be filled with the smell of burnt fuel, which will not allow you to get the proper result from the procedures.

Useful video about ventilation in the steam room

A well-equipped ventilation system, all other things being equal, guarantees, firstly, a long service life of the building and finishing materials used in the arrangement of the serviced premises, and secondly, the comfort and safety of visiting the latter for the user. Particularly relevant is the issue of arranging a complete and sufficient effective ventilation is in the bathhouse, due to the characteristic temperature and humidity conditions and additional requirements for buildings of this kind.

Prices for bath fans

bath fan

Video - Requirements for ventilation in the bathhouse

Choice optimal variety ventilation system for sauna maintenance is a topic for many hours of discussion. For example, there is natural ventilation. The expenditure of money, time and effort on its arrangement is minimal - the work literally comes down to drilling holes in the walls, installing boxes/pipes and valves/grids.

Ventilation valve and grille
Ventilation grilles for baths and saunas

However, it is impossible to use natural ventilation to service all rooms of the bathhouse. Of course, it would be possible to save money, but the disadvantage of such a solution will become obvious with the arrival of the first winter: along with the influx of fresh air from the street, cold will come in, and everyone knows the combination of frosty air with humidity - everything around will simply freeze. Therefore, natural ventilation in some rooms must be combined with other existing options in other rooms of the bathhouse.

If the bathhouse is equipped with a washing room or even its own swimming pool, natural ventilation will definitely not cope with the maintenance of such premises - you will have to equip an exhaust system. And in general, the presence of a forced inflow/outflow of fresh air will be useful both for visitors to the bathhouse and for its premises. Recommendations regarding the optimal composition of the air exchange system are given in the table.

Table. Choosing a ventilation system for different rooms

Room	Recommended ventilation type	Scheme	Description
Steam room, dressing room or relaxation room			Aeration should be understood as organized natural air exchange. The option is most optimally suited for use in a bathhouse: air enters from the bottom of the stove (for other rooms - 25-30 cm above the floor), exhaust is discharged through an opening in the upper part of the room. The work of air exchange is based on elementary physical laws: cold air from the street displaces warm air masses, which have less weight, to the top of the room. Aeration is ideal for use in rooms with high heat output. The presence of additional humidity contributes to an even more pronounced increase in the efficiency of the system.
Wash room, bathroom, room with swimming pool			The system is equipped with a fan and, if necessary, cleaning filters. Mechanical exhaust ventilation is ideal for use in the washroom, pool room and other wet and frequently visited areas of the bathhouse. Mechanical exhaust ensures effective removal of unpleasant odors and excess moisture, which makes the air in the serviced area safe and clean. It is impossible to use exhaust ventilation alone - air rarefaction is formed. To compensate for the vacuum, an air flow from the street or other rooms is arranged. Along with this, the presence of supply ventilation will eliminate the likelihood of drafts. The supply ventilation system can be either natural or mechanical. In combination with mechanical exhaust ventilation, it is more expedient to use a mechanical supply system, because the possibilities of natural inflow may ultimately be insufficient to compensate for the resulting rarefaction. Mechanical supply ventilation is based on a blower fan. Additionally, it can be equipped with an air heater, which will eliminate inconvenience and solve the problems of ventilation of serviced premises during the cold season. Additionally, the supplied air can be humidified or purified using appropriate devices. A mechanical system is more complex in arrangement compared to its counterpart, which operates according to the laws of physics: in addition to fans and air ducts, the system may include optional equipment and accessories (diffusers, air distribution grilles, automation equipment, noise suppressors, etc.). This provides an excellent opportunity to design an air exchange system that fully meets the user’s wishes.

Natural ventilation is provided in vestibules, warehouses and other similar premises.

Regardless of the type of ventilation system chosen, the bathhouse must have conditions for simple ventilation. Install adjustable windows in all rooms, the location of which allows this to be done.

Video - Types of ventilation systems

Instructions for self-calculation of air exchange

An elementary formula is used for calculation:

W (required volume of fresh/exhaust air) = k (coefficient indicating the frequency of air exchange) x V (volume of the room served, determined by multiplying the width of the room by the length and height).

That is, first you must calculate the volume of each room and find for it the required indicator of the volume of clean air (in calculations it is usually denoted Wpr, i.e. inflow) and a similar indicator of exhaust air (denoted as Wout, outflow). In this case, multiplicity factors must be taken into account. The calculated values ​​are rounded upward - the last digit in the number must be 0 or 5.

Next, the summation of all Wpr is performed. A similar action is carried out for the found Ww. The resulting amounts are compared. If the total value of Wpr exceeds the total value of Wpr, you need to increase the exhaust volume for rooms with a minimum air exchange value, if, on the contrary, increase the inflow by the missing value. That is, at the output, the sum of all Wpr should be equal to the total value of the found Wt.

The results of the calculations will allow you to determine the optimal cross-sections of the installed air ducts and select the appropriate type of ventilation system. Thus, there will not be any special problems with calculating the volume of premises and other related data. For greater convenience of subsequent processing, enter the found values ​​into a simple table, as in the example presented.

In the example given, the total value of Wpr is less than the sum of all found Wt by an indicator equal to 110 m3. In order for the balance to be maintained, it is necessary to ensure an influx of clean air in the missing quantity. This can only be done in the waiting room. Thus, the value of 55 m3 for the dressing room given in the table must be replaced with an indicator of 165 m3. Then the balance will be maintained.

Start calculating the air ducts to be installed and drawing up the structure of the ventilation system being installed.

The ventilation system is designed in such a way that the air moves through installed air ducts with the following indicators speed:

• ≤ 5 m/s in main ducts and ≤3 m/s in existing branches – for mechanical ventilation systems;
• ≤ 1 m/sec – for air exchanges operating on a natural principle;
• 2 m/sec – for natural air exchange directly in the steam room.

When choosing the cross-section of air ducts, take into account the above indicators. As for the profile of the duct/pipe, this point is determined by the design features of the air exchange and the bath itself. For example, air ducts with a round cross-section are easier to install compared to their rectangular “counterparts”, and the required connecting fittings for round ducts much easier to pick up.

The relationship between the diameter of the air ducts and other significant indicators is demonstrated in the following tables.

For example, we will work with round air ducts. We select the required sections according to the appropriate table, focusing on the indicators in the table Example of ventilation calculation.

The calculated air flow was 165 m3/hour. The air flow at this flow rate should move no faster than 5 m/sec. In accordance with the table above for round air ducts, we select the cross-section according to the specified data. The table value closest to ours is 221 m3/hour. The air duct cross-section is 125 mm.

Air duct with insulation
Flexible ducts

In the same order, we determine the optimal sections for all branches of the system in the serviced premises, remembering that the air flow in them should move at a speed not exceeding 3 m/sec (in vestibules and storage rooms - 1 m/sec, in the steam room - 2 m/sec sec):

• steam room: calculated Ww is 60 m3/hour, which requires the installation of an air duct with a cross-section of 125 mm;
• shower room - Ww is 50 m3/hour, air moves at a speed of 3 m/sec, a 100 mm air duct is suitable;
• toilet – indicators are similar to the shower room;
• pantry, vestibule, etc. – indicators (except for air speed) are similar to shower and toilet.

Important! In the shower room (wash room, room with a swimming pool) there is an increased level of humidity. When determining the cross-section of the air duct for this room, it is necessary to make an adjustment towards increase (in this example - 125 mm).

For greater convenience, enter all the information received into the table. You can use the template below as an example.

Important note! In the table above, the exhaust volume exceeds the volume of incoming clean air. This happened for the reason that the sections were determined by the nearest flow rate, and the diameter of the air duct in the washing room was intentionally increased. In practice, such an approach will only be beneficial - the margin for outflow and inflow will not be superfluous.

SNiP 2.08.01-89. Residential buildings. File for download

Sanitary and epidemiological requirements for residential buildings and premises. Sanitary and epidemiological rules and regulations SanPiN 2.1.2.1002-00. File for download

Construction norms and rules of the Russian Federation heating, ventilation and conditioning SNiP 41-01-2003. File for download

The cross-sectional area of ​​the ventilation window is determined in accordance with the volume of the room served: 24 cm2 for every 1 m3.

All that remains is to figure out the optimal height of the ventilation holes:

• for the flow of fresh air - on average 25-30 cm above the floor (in the steam room - near the stove);
• for exhaust air outflow - approximately 15-20 cm below the ceiling, usually on the opposite wall to the supply wall.

Popular bath ventilation schemes

Only options for arranging ventilation in the steam room deserve special consideration - in the remaining rooms everything is done according to the standard scheme, for example, like this:

Air exchange in the steam room can be organized in accordance with 4 main schemes presented in the following image.

Scheme "a". The most popular option. The window for air flow is next to the stove, at a distance of about 25-30 cm from the floor. The incoming clean air gradually displaces the waste warm air upward to the opposite wall. There is an exhaust hole on it, approximately 15-25 cm below the ceiling.

Scheme "b". Both holes are on the same wall. The circuit will only work if you install an exhaust fan. Fresh air enters through the lower hole, located in the wall opposite to the stove. The air will rush in the direction of the stove, and then, covering the space of the steam room in an arc, move to the hood and be discharged outside the bathhouse.

Scheme "c". This option is suitable for steam rooms with leaking floors. The inlet hole is located as in diagram “a”. Having warmed up in the upper part of the steam room, the air descends to the floor, passes through the gaps in the plank flooring, facilitating more efficient drying of the boards, and is then discharged through an exhaust vent, usually located in another room. Exhaust can also be carried out through a separate isolated channel.

Scheme "g". Option for baths with a constantly running stove. In this case, the exhaust function is performed by the furnace ash hole. The supply window is located under the shelf, in the wall opposite to the stove. The height of the inlet opening must correspond to the height of the furnace vent. Fresh air rushes towards the stove, displacing the air masses heated by it to the ceiling. Cooling there, the air descends and is removed from the bathhouse through the ash pan.

To ensure that the air exchange system operates as efficiently and as efficiently as possible, before starting its installation, study and remember a few simple tips.

If your bathhouse has a bathroom or even a kitchen, equip them only with exhaust ventilation - this solution will eliminate the possibility of unpleasant odors spreading to other rooms. As an alternative, you can arrange fresh ventilation in other rooms and equip the bathrooms natural exhaust– in this case, the air will move towards the bathrooms.

When calculating fan performance, it is recommended to reduce the total power air supply devices by 5-10% of the total productivity of exhaust units. In this case, the exhaust air will be completely replaced by incoming air masses, and a reserve of 5-10% will compensate for the influx of air entering through windows, cracks, etc., which will allow a balance to be maintained.

In rooms with only natural ventilation, it is recommended to make opening windows - this will increase the efficiency of fresh air supply and reduce the risk of fungi, mold, rot, etc.

Important! If your bathhouse has a non-standard configuration, the design of the ventilation system will also be individual. When compiling it, the features of the composition of the premises, their design, design features, etc. should be taken into account.

The main stages of independent installation of a ventilation system

Any ventilation system in any room is installed in approximately the same sequence. The differences are present only in the characteristics of the air duct openings and their locations, as well as the configuration of the system (mechanical, in contrast to natural, are supplemented various kinds devices).

For example, the following arrangement of ventilation elements can be used.

Or its slightly modified analogue, shown in the following image.

Recommendations regarding the choice of the location of each opening, the type of air exchange system for different rooms of the bath, as well as the procedure for determining the characteristics of ventilation elements, were discussed earlier.

Along with this, the procedure for arranging ventilation may vary depending on which design option you prefer. There are few solutions available:

• independent ventilation in each room. A simpler option. Work is limited to the installation of transoms, windows, fans and other necessary elements, if provided for by the project. Fans can be mounted both in windows and in separate ducts led outside through the wall;
• centralized system. A more complex option. Requires installation of ventilation ducts. It is used mainly in private homes - in the case of a bathhouse, this option will be too expensive and labor-intensive;
• "hybrid" option. Some rooms are ventilated individually, others are combined into a joint system.

An appropriate option for use in a bathhouse is independent ventilation - the owner can choose the optimal characteristics of fans and other elements for each room, saving money, time and effort on carrying out the activities necessary to combine the channels into a single system.

Important! The location of some bathhouse rooms may not allow for independent supply and exhaust ventilation. In this case, it will not be possible to avoid laying ventilation ducts. Alternatively, the boxes can be placed in the attic, and the ventilation holes can be installed in the ceiling or connected to channels installed in the walls (the option is more complicated if the installation of such channels was not provided for by the project at the construction stage of the bathhouse).

In most cases, the first option is used: ventilation pipes of the required length are taken out through holes in the ceilings of the serviced premises and are either equipped with their own fan, if necessary (easier to implement for an untrained user, the procedure is similar to that shown in the following table), or they are connected into a single circuit and connected to a common hood (may require the involvement of specialists).

Remember: maximum efficiency The operation of the ventilation system is ensured by using the shortest and straightest air ducts possible - up to 3 m when arranging natural air exchange and up to 6 m when using electric fans.

The procedure for installing an independent ventilation system is given in the following table.

Important! The example describes instructions for arranging a mechanical ventilation system using fans. The installation procedure for natural air exchange remains almost the same: only the stages of laying wires and installing fans are excluded.

Table. Ventilation arrangement

Work stage	Explanations
	The operating procedure remains the same for the supply and exhaust openings. Only the height of their arrangement and location changes ( possible options discussed earlier), as well as the type of fans used (supply or exhaust). The characteristics of the latter are selected individually, taking into account the volume of the room served, the required speed of air movement in the air ducts, the required air exchange rate, etc. – all these points were covered in the theoretical part. We arrange the holes in the following order: - outline the center and contours. We make the markings so that the resulting diameter of the hole slightly (usually a 2-3 mm gap is made) exceeds the diameter of the pipe being installed (recommendations for choosing the diameters of air ducts were given earlier); - using a puncher we make a hole in accordance with the markings. We hold the working tool horizontally, but with a slight downward tilt; - carefully take out the cut material (a hammer and chisel will help us with this), after which we carefully clean the finished hole from dirt and dust.
	The ventilation pipe (ventilation duct body) is placed in the prepared hole, but before that it (if mechanical/forced ventilation is planned) must be equipped with a fan. Useful recommendation! Initially, buy ready-made kits for arranging ventilation, including, in addition to related additions, a ventilation duct/pipe and a fan with a housing of the appropriate size - this way you will avoid difficulties at the assembly stage. The pipe with the fan is placed in the prepared hole, and the remaining cracks are filled with foam.
	The fan is electrical appliance, therefore, it needs to be connected to the network. Let's do this while the mounting foam dries (at least 10-12 hours). The procedure is standard: - the contours of the groove for the cable are cut out in the wall using a grinder. Excess material is removed using a bumper; - a hole is prepared in the wall for installing the switch box (for example, you can use a hammer drill). The box is installed (pre-read the instructions specific to your switch). The switch itself will be mounted after finishing; - the wire is laid in the groove. To fix the cable we use alabaster; - connect the wire to the switch and the fan. First, be sure to study the connection diagram recommended by the fan manufacturer in the attached instructions, because For different devices it may differ. As an example, one of the most commonly used schemes is given.
	All that remains is to bring the entire structure into proper form. To do this we do the following: - get rid of excess dried polyurethane foam using a knife; - putty the grooves; - we install adjustable ventilation grilles on both sides of the pipe. For fastening we use self-tapping screws. If provided, at the appropriate stages of work we install additional elements(for example, air heater, filter, etc.). Each of these devices is installed individually - we first clarify these points in the manufacturer’s instructions.

Video - Arrangement of ventilation holes

Video - Ventilation in a bathhouse with your own hands - diagram

To determine the value of ventilation in the bath you should know its purpose:

1. Rapid heating of the room, uniform distribution of heat. Savings in heating costs.
2. Constant air renewal while vaping. This is necessary for the comfort and health of vacationers.
3. Quick removal of moist air. Carrying out mandatory drying of the room.
4. Preservation of the building for a longer time. No fungus or mold appears. Objects do not deform or change color when exposed to moisture.

No or insufficient ventilation Unpleasant odors gradually accumulate in the room and the air becomes damp. There is no fresh air coming in, it becomes more difficult to breathe. There is a risk of poisoning from accumulated carbon monoxide. Without ventilation, gradually all the warm air will go up, and the cooling air will accumulate below.

Proper ventilation system in baths

In saunas made of natural logs any cutting of holes to provide ventilation is considered unnecessary. The lower crowns of the walls are laid with holes installed, through which a moderate amount of fresh air passes. If you have a stove-heater in which the vent is also designed to vent air outside, you can limit yourself to its presence. Air is let in through an open door; a gap of 5-7 mm is sufficient.

Ventilation is designed for regular intake of fresh air into the bathhouse and outflow of cooled and humid air. For fresh air flow need to build vents. If they are not there, then you can use windows and doors. Exhaust also occurs through special holes; a furnace ash can be used, great importance in the outflow of steam there is a chimney. To ensure complete control of air exchange, the openings are equipped with shutters, which can be adjusted to stop or resume the flow and exit of air.

There is a large list of ventilation systems:

1. For inlet and outlet openings located opposite each other, one level is used. In some cases, placing the inlet low can help retain heat longer. To activate air exchange, a fan is installed; an air duct or deflector can also be used. Holes cannot be positioned exactly at the same level. As a result of the rapid release of air, accumulations of cold air may form at the bottom and warm air in the rest of the bath.
2. Air flows directed by an operating ventilation device reduce the pressure inside the duct. The exhaust air is drawn out due to a decrease in pressure inside the bath. To raise the pressure again, fresh air is introduced.
3. The vents can be positioned in this way: the supply air vent is 30 cm from the floor, the outlet located opposite does not reach the ceiling 30 cm. Fresh air is immediately heated from the stove, rises, gradually leaving the room.

To ensure constant control over the speed and volume of incoming and outgoing air, dampers are created. It is advisable to make them retractable, opening them to the required distance. The length of the air duct is determined by the size of the bath, as well as the maximum volume of required incoming air.

When the room is just being heated with a hot stove, all openings should be covered. When the temperature becomes optimal for vaping, the valves are opened slightly and immediately adjusted so that the exchange of air does not change the temperature in the room. Both inlet and outlet openings should have a connector close to the same. To increase the flow of fresh air, you can slightly enlarge the outlet.

The supply connector should not be larger than the output connector. It leads to reverse thrust, which promotes the release of fresh air from the bathhouse, rather than its active circulation.

Ventilation in a Russian bath

In a classic bathhouse, created according to the Russian model, no special holes are made, so air exchange should be done in a more natural way. Typically, conventional ventilation is used to introduce a flow of fresh air. You can open the door leading to the street and the window opposite it. Sometimes forced exhaust is used with the door open. To better get rid of accumulating dampness, you should promptly sweep away the leaves from the broom. Benches and other wooden objects that become very wet can be dried; sometimes, flaps of sheets are used. These procedures will not allow heavy steam to form and will remove unpleasant odors and decay products from the room.

After the bathhouse has been ventilated and dried, need to start steaming. To do this, pour water in small portions onto the stones. The prepared steam quickly rises up and remains there for a long time, so it may turn out that it is already very hot at the top, but still cool at the bottom. If there is a strong temperature difference, you can wait until the steam drops or use artificial methods lowering it.

It is enough to work with brooms to create movement in the steam room, the air will immediately mix. Swings of a towel or broom should be carried out closer to the ceiling.

You can make a fan: on a wooden handle there is a stainless steel loop on which the fabric is pulled. Horizontal or vertical movements are made by this device to move warm and cold air. Sometimes people start using it when making steam. To do this, one person pours water on the stones, and the second works with a fan.

In the steam room

In classic bath ventilation schemes it is assumed air flow in the steam room from below. The hole is usually located below half a meter from the floor. The hood can be placed close to the ceiling by making a hole on the opposite wall. Regulation of the level of humidity and heat of the air is carried out by extending or closing the valves.

The best option, especially for a small steam room, is to create an inlet opening next to the stove. This is necessary to instantly warm up the incoming fresh air. This arrangement will not allow the formation of strong drafts and helps to avoid large temperature differences in different parts steam rooms Heat from the steam room can not only be removed outside, but also transferred to other rooms for high-quality heating.

Proper ventilation works by bringing fresh air under the box. Air masses leave the device through the upper opening. The steam room warms up quite evenly until the warm air reaches the bottom of the box. Hot air will gradually displace colder air, providing warming before leaving the room. The steam room heats up and dries out at the same time.

In the waiting room of the bath

The ventilation channel is directly connected to the duct, the diameter of which usually exceeds the chimney by no more than 20%. With these parameters, oxygen fills the room rather than leaving it. There is no need for air flow from the underground.

The walls of the stove, if there is one in the dressing room, needs to be placed close to the floor. The shelves are not necessarily placed in a strictly horizontal position. They are able to slow down the rise of heat to the ceiling. To better absorb warm air, it is better to equip the stove with several chimneys.

Sometimes, when heating a bathhouse, a large amount of smoke is formed and retained in the room. This means that the air inside the dressing room is colder than the outside air. Cold air is somewhat more massive than warm air, so it often creates a shell in chimneys. In order to push out this air, you need to equip an additional door for burning ash.

Forced ventilation

Ventilation in the bathhouse is carried out using electronic systems, if it is impossible to ensure good air circulation by natural means. Fans can be installed on both the supply and exhaust vents. They accelerate the movement of air masses, providing the room with fresh air and quickly removing humid air.

Exhaust ventilation

The design of this ventilation always includes exhaust fan. For air circulation, a supply air supply must be constructed. Sometimes cracks in the walls are used to bring in fresh air, or windows or doors are opened slightly. The advantage of exhaust ventilation is the reduction of pressure in the bathhouse. The action must be compensated by a constant flow of air from outside.

Ventilation with powerful exhaust perfectly removes harmful gases and moist air with an unpleasant odor. You can build such a ventilation system not only in the steam room, but also in showers, washrooms, areas with a swimming pool or in bathrooms. Typically, a basic exhaust ventilation system kit includes a fan and a duct. If the device is too noisy, you can use a silencer.

Forced ventilation

Installed according to the exhaust principle, however the fan must be placed on the inlet. When the supply ventilation system is activated, an increase in pressure in the room is observed, which must be promptly compensated by the release of air through the hood or gaps in the walls, floor, ceiling, vents, and doors.

Supply fans are not considered comfortable if they operate at cold temperatures. In winter, they supply ice-cold air, which must be additionally heated by pre-installed air heaters. If cleaning is necessary large quantity filters can be used for incoming air.

Supply and exhaust ventilation

Combination of artificial inflow and exhaust air is often equipped with recuperators, silencers, and filters. Additional devices provide comfort while in the bathhouse, while at the same time there is constant, good air circulation. In order not to worry about ventilation, you can equip it with an automatic control unit.

Creation of supply and exhaust design artificial ventilation often causes difficulties. It is necessary to calculate the optimal air exchange in all rooms of the bathhouse at the design stage. The amount of air coming out must match the amount of air coming in. Sometimes air flows are not deliberately balanced. To prevent the spread of excessive humidity or unpleasant odors from a certain room, the pressure in it is artificially reduced. To do this, a hood is installed with greater intensity than in other rooms.

When arranging ventilation in the bathhouse, you should take care not only of the steam room, but also of other important rooms. To save on heating costs, you can use the warm air generated in the steam room, venting it through other rooms rather than outside. Adapting ventilation system For specific requests, you can make the most successful option.