Are you familiar with this situation when, upon entering a room, you press the light switch button, but the lighting does not appear? This has probably happened to many people, and there may be several reasons for the lack of light. Perhaps in this moment there is no voltage in the entire apartment, or the electrical wiring is damaged, or perhaps the switch itself is faulty. In the latter case, you should not immediately run to the store for a new device or call an electrician to repair it. An ordinary keyboard switch is the simplest element; any man who is more or less familiar with electricity will be able to handle it on his own. And we will help you a little and tell you how to disassemble a light switch and determine whether it is in good or bad condition.

Is the switch really the cause?

Let's first make sure that the reason for the lack of light is in the switch itself.

Check if there is lighting in other rooms. If not, then look at the introductory machine, maybe you have exceeded permissible load, turning on the electric kettle, iron and microwave oven at the same time, and it turned off. Go out onto the site, ask your neighbors if they have electricity, perhaps there is no voltage in the entire house.

In the case when the light does not come on in only one room, but in all others there is, a circle possible reasons narrows. Check the integrity of the light bulb and the serviceability of the socket in the lighting fixture. If everything is in order with the lamp, then there is no other choice but to remove the switch and examine its insides.

Materials and tools

Before disassembling the light switch, immediately prepare all the necessary tools and materials that may be required for repairs:

• indicator screwdriver;
• flat screwdriver;
• Phillips screwdriver;
• insulating tape;
• sandpaper;
• stripping knife.

Relieve stress from the workplace

Any work in the apartment related to electricity must begin with de-energizing the work area. If you have a separate circuit breaker for each room, then turn off the one from which the given room where you will remove the switch is powered. If there is one common input machine per apartment, turn it off and take measures so that no one can turn it back on. It will be good if it is located at the entrance to the apartment. But when the machine is located on a common area, it is better to hang a “Do not turn on!” sign. or put someone on duty.

Using an indicator screwdriver, check that there is indeed no voltage at the workplace. How to do it right? First, test the operating condition of the indicator screwdriver in an area known to be live, such as an on-site distribution panel. When it comes into contact with a phase wire, the indicator window lights up, which means the screwdriver is working. Now go back to the room and check that there is no voltage at distribution box touching the power supply wires. The indicator screwdriver does not light up, which means everything is in order, you have secured the work area and you can safely remove the switch from the wall.

Step-by-step instructions for analysis

And now in detail about how to remove the switch:

1. The first step is to remove the key. In theory, it should be removed if from below thumb Press the key and pull it towards you with the rest of your fingers. In some models, the keys fit quite tightly, then you will have to slightly pry them off from the side with a flat-head screwdriver. Do this carefully so as not to scratch the protective frame and the key itself. If you have a switch with two or three keys, remove and put them away one by one.
2. Now remove the protective frame. In some models it is secured with two screws; unscrew them with a Phillips screwdriver. Sometimes the frame is secured using plastic latches, in this case it’s even easier, just squeeze them out.
3. Having removed all the protective plastic elements, we approached the operating mechanism of the switch. There are two spacer screws on the sides; unscrew them and remove the working part from the socket box. There is another option when, to fix the working mechanism in the socket box, not spacer screws are used, but expansion tabs. They need to be loosened a little by reducing the thrust angle.
4. Carefully inspect the disassembled switch, especially the wire connection points, for weak contact, burning, or melting. Disconnect the wire strands from the contact holes. In order not to confuse anything later, immediately use insulating tape to mark the wire that was phase and connected to the incoming contact of the switch. If you find that the wire strands are oxidized, clean them with sandpaper and reconnect. If it is discovered that a wire core has burnt out as a result of poor contact, it is necessary to re-terminate it, use a knife to remove 1 cm of insulation and secure it in the contact hole.

This video shows how a single-key one is disassembled:

and two rocker switch:

When disassembling the switch, remember the sequence of actions. If everything is in order with the switching device itself (it has not melted and is ready for further use), it will need to be assembled in the reverse order. If damage to the switch itself is discovered (for example, the contact part is melted), and do not try to restore anything, immediately go to the store for a new device.

Light switches, as a rule, have a significant operating reserve, so they do not have to be disassembled regularly.

However, if such a need does arise, then this should be done extremely carefully, and strictly following the sequence, so as not to damage the inside of the device, which is almost 90% plastic.

The first thing you should always do is, of course, turn off the electricity and only then start working. You will need the following tools:

• screwdriver - flat and Phillips;
• screwdriver - voltage indicator;
• portable light source.

Using a flat-head screwdriver, you need to remove the switch keys, for which we install its tip between the frame and one of the keys, on the top or bottom side.

With a little force and using a screwdriver as a lever, you need to pry up the key and use your fingers to remove it from the grooves. The second key can be removed without the help of a screwdriver.

Using the indicator, they verify that there is no voltage; to do this, be sure to apply a screwdriver to each of the contacts. If the switch is located in a dark place, use a light source to avoid damaging the equipment.

After removing the keys with the switch, you can perform any operations, even under voltage, naturally, observing the necessary precautions. They check the integrity of the contacts and the presence of voltage on them, after which they make a conclusion about the operability of the device.

When there is a need to dismantle the switch, for a more detailed inspection with disconnection from the network, or there is complete confidence If the device needs to be replaced, it is necessary to remove not only the keys, but also the retaining frame, which in turn holds the decorative frame.

To do this, you will need the same set of tools as in the previous case, however, if the switch is secured with Phillips screws, then you will also need a Phillips screwdriver.

The fixing frame is located immediately under the keys, and can be removed using the same flat-head screwdriver.

It is held with latches on the switch body, so you need to use a screwdriver to pry off the teeth without extra effort, since the frame is quite fragile, pull it towards you with your fingers. At the same time, it is necessary to hold the frame, since without a frame it can easily fall down.

Nowadays, quite often you can find a universal electrical installation design - a socket and a switch in one housing. This is very convenient, as it allows you to power an outlet from one incoming line, and immediately connect lighting fixtures by running the phase wire through the switch.

In the event of a breakdown, which, however, is extremely rare, the entire body is removed, but this is not very difficult, however, you need to know some features when removing such a structure.

Despite the fact that it is quite simple, in addition to the screw that secures the case near the socket connectors, the fixation is also made in the area of ​​the switch, under the key.

The first thing you need to do is remove the switch key by prying it up with a flat-head screwdriver, then unscrew the screws holding the housing that are located under it, as well as the screw on the socket.

It is enough to easily pull the housing towards you, and then inspect the socket and switch to find out the causes of the breakdown or dismantle the device altogether.

Typically, a light switch will last up to 10-12 years, but there are times when it needs to be replaced sooner. The reasons may be different - mechanical damage, breakdown of the internal mechanism or obsolescence and unsightly appearance. For an experienced electrician, replacing a switch is a matter of five minutes. For a non-specialist, this time can increase to 10–15 minutes, but in any case, before you start disassembling the switch, it is useful to become familiar with its internal structure.

Replacing the old switch with a new one

There are switches three types: with one key, two or three. To figure out how to make a replacement, consider an example of removing and installing a simple single-key switch.

Photo gallery: types of electrical switches

All types of switches, including single-key switches, can be designed for hidden or external wiring. Using a two-key switch, you can independently control two lines lighting fixtures Three-key switches are used relatively rarely, because they are needed in cases where it is necessary to turn on three different lighting devices from one point

Repair, dismantling and replacement of the switch is permitted only when the power is turned off.

The circuit breakers on the distribution board should be turned off (checkbox at the bottom).

In order to ensure own safety When carrying out work, it is necessary to turn off the electricity by lowering the corresponding flag circuit breaker

To finally ensure that there is no voltage at the switch contacts, it is recommended to use a household voltage indicator by setting metal leg alternately to each of the contacts. Direct confirmation of a network outage is also the fact that work lamp The lamp does not light up when the switch is turned on (up button).

When voltage is present, the LED inside the transparent plastic case lights up

How to remove the old switch

First of all, you need to conduct a visual inspection. There are many types of switches, and they differ in the method of assembly. In some, the outer cover is secured with screws, in others it is held on by plastic latches.

To remove this antique switch, you need to unscrew two bolts and remove the decorative cover

1. First, remove the top protective cover. If it is attached to screws, they need to be unscrewed. To do this, use a screwdriver with straight slots. If the fastening is made with latches, then before removing the cover you need to remove the key. This is done using the same screwdriver, carefully inserting it into the gap between the case and the key. If there are several keys, then each of them can be removed independently.
   
   The key is carefully pryed off with a screwdriver inserted into the slot and removed using a screwdriver
2. When the key is removed, the entire internal structure of the switch becomes accessible for disassembly. If the wiring device is hidden, the switch is recessed into the depth of the wall and is mounted in the socket box using sliding legs. They need to be released by unscrewing the two screw bolts counterclockwise. You need to rotate them until the base falls out of the socket box. If the wiring is external, the fastening is slightly different. There are no sliding legs or socket box; the switch body is fixed directly to the wall.
   The built-in switch is dismantled after unscrewing the two screws securing it to the socket box
3. By unscrewing two screws, you can remove the base, inside of which there is a contact pair that opens the current supply circuit to the lamp.
   After unscrewing the bolts, the switch can be freely removed from the socket box
4. On last stage After dismantling the switch, the wires are disconnected from it. They are inserted into special terminal blocks and secured with screw clamps. By loosening the screws one and a half to two turns, you can easily pull the wires out of the sockets. They should not be completely unscrewed, since in some switches the fastening is designed in such a way that the cable is clamped between the screw and the square nut. If the nut comes off the thread, it will be difficult to reinstall it later.
   After loosening the bolts securing the wires, the switch body will remain in your hands

Video: how to disassemble a switch

Installing a new switch

Assembly is carried out in reverse order.

1. The wires are connected in their places.
2. The base is inserted into the socket box and secured with spacer legs.
3. A plastic housing is screwed on top.
4. A key is inserted into the grooves.

It is important to install the switch so that the lamp turns on when the key is pressed up. The assembly of the switch for external wiring is carried out identically, with the difference that after securing the cable contacts, the base is screwed to the wall, then the housing is attached to it, and last resort the key is set.

The switch is installed in the reverse order of removing the old device.

How to move a switch to another location

Sometimes there is a desire (or need) to move the switch to another location. For example, when the children in the family are growing up, but they still cannot reach the switch. The rules for installing electrical appliances allow the switch to be moved to a place convenient for the user. It is allowed to install the switch at a height of 80 to 160 cm from the floor. In order to make such a move, you must first decide on a new location. It is considered optimal to install a switch located 15–20 cm from the edge door jamb(right or left - it doesn’t matter, but it’s more common to install on the right).

The switch is installed 15–20 cm from the door on either side

1. If reinstallation is carried out within 1 m from the original location down or up, a groove is made in the wall. Its depth should be approximately 1.5 times the thickness of the cable (or cables) laid in the corrugation. The wire should lie freely inside the groove, without peeking out. The groove can be made with a hammer drill or wall cutter.
   In order to do hidden wiring, a groove is made in the wall with a volume approximately 1.5 times larger than the size of the cable in the corrugated hose
2. A hole for the socket box is drilled at the location of the new switch position. This can be done with a hammer drill using a diamond bit. The hole depth should be no more than 5 cm in concrete and brick houses and 4.5 cm - in panel ones. As a rule, a crown with a diameter of 68 mm is used. However, there are various situations, and the crown is selected based on them. On this preparatory work are ending.
   The hole for the socket box is drilled using a diamond core bit with a diameter of 68 mm
3. The next step is to turn off the power supply to the house (apartment) and completely disassemble the switch, described above. In addition to the switch itself, the socket box is also carefully removed from the wall. This can be done using a hammer drill or a simple chisel and hammer. Socket boxes in concrete and brick walls are attached to plaster, which crumbles and collapses when exposed to impacts. It is important not to break the plastic body of the socket itself; it can be reused.
   The socket box can be removed by carefully tamping its edges and crumbling adhesive layer gypsum
4. After this, the cable is extended to required length. It is best to connect the wires using a terminal block or a standard Wago block, but if this is not possible, you can make a simple twist, insulating it well with dielectric tape. According to the rules for laying cables in grooves, the cable must be placed in a corrugation. Minimum size corrugated plastic sleeve is (outer diameter) 16 mm. The metal corrugation can have a size of 9.8 mm in diameter. The junction of the old and new corrugation must also be insulated. The size of the extension cable is selected so that there is a margin of 5–10 cm.
   If you don’t have terminal connectors at hand, you can do a regular twist, carefully insulating all open areas
5. After this, the socket box is installed in a new location. The simplest and quick way- fix it on alabaster, quick-hardening electrical plaster. The solution is diluted in the ratio of 1 part alabaster to 1 part water by volume. Since the plaster hardens very quickly, first install a socket box in the hole in the wall, insert a corrugated cable into it, and only then prepare the solution.
   Alabaster must be diluted in water in a ratio of 1:1 and quickly applied to the required places, as it hardens very quickly
6. After the alabaster has been brought to the consistency of thick sour cream, it is used to fill the groove with the cable and the empty space around the socket box. After 25–30 minutes, the solution will harden and it will be impossible to change the position of the wiring, so everything needs to be done within 5–7 minutes. Later, with a different solution, the groove is completely puttied and leveled in the plane of the wall. Former location The location of the socket box is also completely filled with putty. For final leveling For all voids, ordinary plaster is used, which sets only after 25–30 minutes (and some up to an hour), which gives enough time for work. After completely dry putty (24 hours), the surface is sanded with sandpaper.
   The groove must be filled with mortar and carefully leveled, and after the alabaster has dried, sanded with sandpaper
7. Installation and connection of the switch is carried out after the gate and socket box are completely dry. The connection procedure is described above.

Sometimes (more often this happens in panel houses old building) you can come across a switch that is fixed in a recess without the use of a socket. This practice was characteristic of buildings at the end of the previous century. The panels were poured at the factory, they provided for the installation of switches and sockets directly into concrete holes. For some (short) time, such switches worked properly, but the sockets were the first to fail and fell out of their sockets when the cord was pulled out. Therefore, if there is no socket under the switch, the task will only be simplified.

In the case where the switch is moved over a considerable distance, options for connecting it to another distribution box are possible. But there is no point in describing this process without reference to specific situation. In this case the best solution There will be a consultation with an experienced electrician directly on site.

It is much easier and faster to reinstall the switch with external cabling. Obviously, in this case there is no need to ditch the walls; it is enough to stretch a cable channel or even just a corrugated cable to a new location.

External wiring is most often carried out in plastic boxes

For corrugated hoses, special brackets are available for sale that help secure them to the wall.

It is more convenient to fasten a corrugated hose with a cable inserted into it using plastic clips

Often such wiring is done in garages, warehouses and other office premises. A clear advantage is its high degree of accessibility during repairs or preventative work. In addition, you can always install additional conductors in the cable channel as needed.

Video: how to move a switch

Switch repair

Not always old switch you need to throw it away and replace it with a new one. Sometimes it is enough to repair it. The design of the switch is quite simple and in the event of a breakdown it can be repaired without much difficulty. If you carefully examine the disassembled switch, you can understand that the main function in it is performed by a contact pair, which moves from one position to another by mechanical force. In one position electrical circuit connects, in another it separates.

Required tools and materials

To disassemble and reassemble the switch, you only need one tool - a flat-head screwdriver, 3–5 mm in size. To clean the contacts, you need a piece of fine-grain sandpaper or a needle file.

The switch is disassembled using a regular flathead screwdriver.

How to disassemble a switch

The process of disassembling the switch was described above. For convenience, we present it here again.

Modern switches consist of a non-removable base, which is simply replaced in case of damage.

Cleaning contacts

If the switch is unstable (it turns on and sometimes does not turn on the lamp), most likely the reason lies in burnt contacts. Upon careful inspection, such contacts may appear slightly charred or even melted. This happens because the wire is not firmly secured in the terminal block. Another reason may be a voltage surge in the network at the moment of switching on. A lamp that is too powerful can also cause damage to the contacts over time. Be that as it may, the contact needs to be restored, then it will continue to serve properly. To do this, it is cleaned with fine sandpaper until a uniform appearance appears. metallic color.

Use fine sandpaper to clean the contacts.

Sometimes the conductor may be tinned, that is, treated with tin. Then, instead of sandpaper, it is better to use a small file - a needle file.

Other possible problems and solutions

Other problems with switches rarely occur. But there are times when a foreign body or some kind of debris gets inside the switch. For example, during renovation. Then it needs to be disassembled and thoroughly cleaned of all excess; it is advisable to blow out the base with a vacuum cleaner. As a rule, after this the operation of the switch is restored.

How to assemble a switch

Assembly occurs in reverse order. If the repair is being carried out for the first time, you can lay out the parts on the table in the order of disassembly or photograph them step by step. When repairing a single-key switch, the location of the wires does not matter. But if it has two or three keys, then in order to avoid confusion, it is better to immediately mark the incoming core with a marker. They can also mark the place where it is connected.

When installing a double-lever switch, it is necessary to correctly connect the input conductor (phase), which is best marked during disassembly

You can check the result of the repair after installing the base in the socket box. To do this, you need to turn on the power supply on the panel and test the switch. If it works normally, you can complete the assembly and install the protective case and key.

Video: repair and replacement of the switch

When starting work on replacing the lighting switch, you need to take safety precautions. It must be remembered that electric current can cause damage to health and pose a danger to life. It is necessary to observe the main rule of health protection, which is that installation should only take place when the devices are disconnected from the power supply.

Nowadays, in many houses, high-quality electrics are initially installed, or during repairs they try to replace all elements of the electrical network, including switches. But a situation may arise when you come home, flip the switch, and the light does not come on.

If the light bulb works in another place and there is electricity in the apartment, then the problem is most likely in the switch, and it will have to be disassembled.

This must be done by first turning off the power and checking it on a lamp or lamp.

Now there are several types of switches, each of which has its own design and features. The following types of switches are distinguished:

1. Simple one- and two-gang switches. The most common type of switches.
2. Pass-through switches can turn on lights from several places. In appearance they look like regular push-button switches.
3. Dimmers are switches that allow you to adjust the brightness of lighting from twilight to bright light. They come with microcontrollers or mechanical ones.
4. Impulse switches are essentially just buttons, like doorbells. They are connected to a pulse relay.
5. Touch switches - there are different types: acoustic (triggered by a sharp sound, for example, clapping your hands), touch dimmers, with remote control, radio switches, etc.

Since key switches are the most common, we will consider disassembling them.

How to turn off the power supply

Before any electrical work, including disassembling the switch, it is necessary to turn off the voltage. As a rule, electrical wiring in our apartments is divided into three groups: sockets, lighting and output for an electric stove (if there is one). To disassemble the switch, it is necessary to de-energize the lighting group by turning off the corresponding circuit breaker on the distribution panel. But many people have a question: what kind of automatic machine is responsible for lighting?

The photo shows an image of a modern shield, where close-up the ratings of the machines are shown (16 Amps on the right and 5 Amps on the left). The lighting wiring always carries less current than the group of sockets, therefore the rating of the machine for this group will be lower - this is what you need to focus on.

After turning off the machine, you must make sure that the voltage is turned off - to do this, turn on the lighting and if it is not there, then everything is done correctly and you can start disassembling the electrical switch

I can find both single-key switches and two- and three-key switches. The most common are two-key ones, and the sequence of work will be shown using their example.

First you need to remove the keys from the switch. This is done quite quickly and easily without special tools. You need to press the key against the wall with your thumb, and with your other fingers take it by the protruding edge and pull it towards you. Many people are afraid of breaking the key because it is held quite tightly, in which case you can use a flat-head screwdriver or a knife and slightly pry the key. Still, it’s better to use your hands, and after a while everything will work out. Next, use the same principle to remove the second key.

After this, you need to remove the switch frame itself. It can be pressed against the mechanism by the black bet located in the middle. This is a latch type fastening, so you need to use a small flat screwdriver to pry this insert open as shown in the photo. After this, the switch mechanism itself will become accessible.

In order to remove the switch from the wall, you need to loosen the mounting tabs that hold it. To do this, loosen the corresponding screws (shown in the photo) and after that the mechanism should freely come out of the wall. Sometimes the switch may be secured with screws on the sides mounting box, in this case they must be unscrewed.

Then the switch is removed from the box and the voltage on the connected wires is checked using a special indicator screwdriver. If everything is done correctly, then there should be no voltage. After this, unscrew the fastenings of all wires and disconnect them from the switch.
The removed switch must be inspected for melted contacts, and if this is the problem, then the switch cannot be repaired and must be replaced. If there are no such problems, then the switch is inspected for other damage and all contacts are checked, especially in the places where the wires are attached.

If the switch is still faulty, then the wires must be insulated with electrical tape and marked different colors so as not to get confused when connecting a new switch. By the way, when buying a new product, it is better to take the old switch with you to find a suitable model.

Usually, disassembling a light switch in an apartment is required when it breaks, that is, to replace it with a new one. Some manufacturers, in order to improve the decorative effect of the element, make the holes for dismantling invisible, these are mainly brands: Legrand, Schneider, Viko. Because of this, a person who decides to do repairs may accidentally damage the case or spend a long time looking for clamps and connectors. The article will present detailed instructions for removing the switch and socket.

How to disassemble a switch

So, in the initial position there is a key switch, which is firmly fixed inside the groove. First of all, you need to prepare a tool in order to disassemble the case - a screwdriver with an indicator, it will be enough.

The external light switch is disassembled as follows:

1. It is necessary to turn off the circuit breaker, which protects the wiring from electrical overloads and short circuits.
2. Before dismantling, you need to make sure that there is no light in the house. And only after that you need to use a screwdriver with an indicator.
3. Next, you need to dismantle the key if the switch is one-key or the keys if it is three-key or two-key. It doesn't matter what type of product is disassembled. To remove the key, you need to squeeze it with your hand from the sides (in the middle) and carefully remove it from the case. Sometimes the element “sits” firmly in the inside of the case, and in order to pull it out, you need to pick up one of the edges with a screwdriver.
4. The next step is to remove the decorative frame and cover from the wall. Sometimes it is attached to two miniature bolts from the inside; less often, the frame is held in place by grooves that must be gently pressed with a screwdriver to remove the fittings. Another option for attaching electrical accessories is using additional element, which is attached to the grooves of the caliper.
5. Next, you need to pull out the “core” from the socket box. There are two screws on the sides of the case that hold the mechanism on a vertical surface. All you need to do is unscrew them using an indicator screwdriver. There is another option for holding the case in the socket box - with claws. They need to be loosened by slightly unscrewing the bolts on the sides that are responsible for adjusting the thrust angle.
6. The next step is to disconnect the input wires. Phase, ground and neutral can be fixed to self-clamping terminals or to a screw terminal. In the first case, you just need to press the locking levers and remove the wires from the connectors. The clamp screws must be unscrewed using an indicator screwdriver and the wiring carefully removed.

That's all, there is nothing complicated, the switch has been removed from the wall.

Safety rules: how to remove the switch

2 main types of fastener designs have been developed for vertical surface inside the building, which differ: for hidden and for external electrical wiring.

To avoid the following errors::

1. Short circuit.
2. Failure of expensive lamps, energy-saving, LED or fluorescent light bulbs.
3. Insulation burnout in the distributor or wall.
4. Electric shock, which can be fatal.

Necessary: ​​study the basic rules of safety measures. Before removing the switch, you need to familiarize yourself in detail with the design of the wall mounting and connection. Products for external electrical wiring are attached with traditionally standard fasteners; through the mounting holes, the housing is tightly attached to the vertical surface.

For internal wiring models Electric, Makel, Nilson or another brand, wall mounting technologies are more complex.

The design of the switch contains a mechanism of sliding bars, which create a fixation of the housing on two opposite sides in a hole made in advance with a size of 6.7-7 cm. Regardless of the type of switch and the purpose for which it needs to be removed, first of all on the distributor in the panel, it is necessary to turn off the protective machine. This must be done for safety reasons so that the person doing the dismantling or repair is not struck by an electric current.

You need to make sure that the shutdowns are performed correctly; to do this, you need to press the keys several times; the lamps should not light up. According to the requirements of the PUE, a warning sign must be installed on the circuit breaker in the distributor. Better yet, close the cabinet completely and take the keys for yourself while you work, so that strangers do not have access to switchboard. Only by following this rule can you begin to disassemble the Legrand switch or any other (single, triple, double).

Methods: how to remove a switch from the wall

Before you start a very complex scheme connections electrical appliances must be de-energized at 100%, no exceptions.

Failure to comply with safety regulations may result in:

1. Hit electric shock, as a result of injury, death.
2. Failure of expensive electrical appliances due to what will happen short circuit online.
3. Insulation breakdown electrical wiring, switching fittings in the panel, resulting in a fire.

It is imperative that measures be taken to prevent accidental activation.

Removing the keys: how to remove the switch for wallpapering

To remove the wallpaper switch, you will need tools.

Namely:

• Screwdriver – plus and minus;
• Indicator screwdriver;
• Portable lighting device.

Using a negative screwdriver, you need to remove the switch keys, for which you need to install its tip between the frame and one of the keys, above or below. With a little effort and using a screwdriver as a lever, you need to pry up the key and help with your hand to pull it out of the grooves. The second key can be removed freely. Using an indicator screwdriver, you need to make sure that there is no electrical voltage; to do this, it must be applied to each of the electrical contacts. If the switch is located in a dark place, you should use a flashlight or other portable light source so as not to damage the switch and special equipment.

After removing the keys, you can carry out any manipulations with the device, even under electrical voltage, naturally, observing the required safety measures.

They check the integrity of the electrical contacts and the presence of electrical voltage on them, after which they make a conclusion about whether the device is in working condition. When there is a need to dismantle the switch, for a more detailed inspection with disconnection from the power supply, or there is 100% confidence that the device needs to be replaced, then you should remove not only the keys, but also the retaining frame, which in turn holds the decorative frame. To do this, you need the same set of tools, but if the switch is attached using Phillips bolts, then in addition you will need to use a positive screwdriver.

The locking frame is located immediately below the keys, and can be removed using a minus screwdriver. It is attached to latches, they are present on the switch body, so you need to pry the teeth with a screwdriver and pull it towards you by hand. Once you have managed to open and remove it, you can begin decorating the room. After gluing, you need to assemble the switch. Assembly is carried out in reverse order.

Step by step: how to disassemble a socket

Disassembling a socket is a fairly easy process, not like repairing a Gazelle, for example, or morphemic analysis of a word in Russian.

Actions:

1. De-energize indoor space, in which the electrical outlet will be disassembled.
2. Next, you need to take a screwdriver in your hands and unscrew the screw between the 2 plug holes - this is according to the standard. On the most modern sockets, this screw may be hidden under an overhead decorative panel.
3. Next, you will need to unscrew 2 more screws that are responsible for the “antennae” of the sockets.
4. The next step is to pull the socket out of the niche in which it “sits” and disconnect the socket from the electrical cable (wire) by loosening the terminals, using the same screwdriver.

That's all, the socket is disassembled. When all manipulations with the device are completed, you can assemble it back or put it new socket, to plug.

How to remove a switch from the wall (video)

If you are not sure about own strength, it’s right to contact a professional. Electricity is no joke.