If you have an idea to build a house with your own hands, then the difficulty of choosing a material will be relevant.

Most budget option There will be construction of a house from timber. Despite the cheapness of this material, the house will be quite warm, durable and strong.

After studying the Internet, you will find that in most cases it is advised to choose timber with a cross-section of 150x150 mm.

But if you don’t want to attract additional labor, you can use lumber such as dry timber 150x100 mm, which after erection and shrinkage can be insulated with mineral wool. The house will not be inferior in thermal insulation to other buildings made of larger cross-section timber.

Construction stages and foundation construction

And so, the material has been purchased, we begin building the house:

• Initially, it is necessary to clear the space and level the area for the foundation;
• In accordance with the composition of the soil, determine the type of foundation (specialized reference literature will help with this).

The foundation can be pile, monolithic or strip, which is more often used, because wooden houses relatively light.

After installing the foundation, the concrete should gain strength (3-4 weeks), then we proceed to laying the timber. Even before laying, it is necessary to prepare dowels (dowels) - this is what is used to fasten the timber laid in the crowns together. They are usually made from dense wood(larch).

If the beam size is 150x100 mm, dowels about 12 cm long are suitable. Also, the technology for laying timber requires laying inter-crown insulation. Usually these are rolled materials such as jute, you can also use tow or moss.

According to the advice of experts, you should use fresh red or peat moss that has been stored for no more than 3 weeks.

The first crown of the future house should be made of larch, which is not subject to rotting. For greater reliability, it can be treated with bitumen.

The beams of the first crown are fastened together using a technique known as “half a tree” - the ends of the beam are cut lengthwise and crosswise. It is also necessary to fasten such a knot using staples or nails.

Methods of attaching timber to the foundation

At the stage of pouring the base into it upper layer install bolts with curved or cone-shaped bases. The distance between such bolts should not exceed more than 0.5 m. There should be at least two bolts for each element of the first crown.

In the timber of the first crown, even before laying, it is necessary to drill holes for the studs located in the foundation.

Pre-cut roofing material is laid on top of the grillage, which acts as a waterproofing material.

After laying the first crown and securing it to the foundation studs using washers and locknuts, align the horizontal line so that the house turns out without distortions. It is also recommended to check the diagonals.

Having laid the first crown, we begin to build the walls.

To do this you will need a variety of tools:

Note!

• Gasoline or electric saw;
• Hand-held circular saw;
• Drill;
• Level;
• Roulette;
• Axe;
• Hammer;
• Screwdriver;
• Hammer;
• Plane.

Also needed Consumables- nails, self-tapping screws, inter-crown insulation, fire-bioprotective impregnations.

After preparing everyone necessary materials and tools, we begin to build the walls of your future home. The timber is laid in rows (crowns) until the wall reaches the required height.

After laying 4-5 crowns, jambs for door and window openings. On next stage The final construction of the walls under the roof takes place.

Construction of roof and floors

We strongly do not recommend saving on materials for roofing installation. This part of the house can be designed in several versions:

• Single-pitch;
• Gable;
• Hip;
• Tent;
• Half-hip;
• Multi-pincer;
• Vaulted and diamond roofing.

It all depends on your desire, funds and complexity of the rafter system.

Note!

Floors and ceilings in the house are also an important stage of construction. When arranging them, they are mainly guided by personal preferences, but high-quality waterproofing is mandatory for any manufacturing option. This is especially true for basements and plinths.

Photo of a house made of timber with your own hands

Note!

I wanted to build a house. I immediately encountered the problem of choosing a material. There wasn’t much money, but I wanted a house that was reliable, warm and durable. Having studied the proposals of modern construction market, decided to stop at

On the forums they advise building houses with a cross-section of 15x15 cm. But I had to build it myself, sometimes with a friend, i.e. I didn’t want to involve outside workers, so I decided not to use a heavy 15-centimeter beam. Instead, I bought dry material with a cross-section of 15x10 cm. Then, when the wood shrinks, I will insulate the walls from the outside mineral wool, and the house will be warm.

To further save on construction costs, I decided to use only local materials. You can take my story as an example of guidance and navigate the situation.

Pouring the foundation

First, I cleared the area under the house from debris, bushes and other things that were in the way. After this, I began laying out the foundation.

I had to think for a long time what type base will do specifically for my area. I studied the geological conditions, learned the composition of the soil and the level of groundwater. Specialized reference literature helped me with this. Additionally, I asked my neighbors what foundations their houses were on.

I live in the Ryazan region. Local conditions make it possible to save on the construction of foundations, so most neighbors have houses on light supports made of limestone and concrete. Most often, they even refuse reinforcement - such is the wonderful soil we have. The soil is sandy, therefore, it is not “heaving”. The water runs deep, and wooden houses weigh little. Therefore, there is no need to install buried monolithic supports in my region.

I started by digging a trench. To begin with, I removed the fertile ball. Sand appeared. To make it seal better, I filled it with water. Then he lined the trenches with stone and laid two reinforcing bars. I tied them up in the corners. I think that the tape is best reinforced both at the bottom and at the top. So I did.

To rid yourself of extra work, it would be possible to order ready-made construction concrete with delivery. However, in my region this turned out to be unrealistic - there are simply no such proposals. And my plot is such that the truck would have to go through the garden, but I don’t need that.

Alas, you won’t be able to save this much in every region. For example, if I lived somewhere in the Moscow region, I would have to make formwork, install a spatial reinforcing frame, and only then pour in the building mixture.

While the concrete gains strength (and it needs 3-4 weeks for this), I will start preparing consumables.

Prices for timber

Find out more detailed nuances from our new article on our portal.

Preparatory activities

Preparing dowels

The connection of the beam crowns is carried out using wooden dowels. I decided to make them from scrap boards left over from other construction projects. In my case it was the installation of roof sheathing.

For dowels, use wood that is as hard as possible. The process of making fasteners is extremely simple. I took some scrap boards and edged them on one side using a matching saw.

Then I set the stop and started sawing to size. In my situation, the size was 12 cm. As a result, I received neat and beautiful blanks.

I sawed the boards using a band saw. At the end of the day I received a whole box of wooden sticks. Next, I sharpened the blanks with an ax on each side and got my dowels.

Moss preparation

Dowels, sphagnum peat moss and boards

The technology requires that between each crown of timber be laid. Professionals usually insulate roll materials. Working with them is easy and convenient - just roll out the material on top of the laid crown and you can continue working. However, convenience and ease of processing come at a price.

I decided not to waste money and use moss. Firstly, this material is abundant in nature - go and collect it. Secondly, moss is not only a decent insulator, but also an excellent antiseptic. Additionally studied thematic forums: moss is actively used as inter-crown insulation, and there are no negative reviews about it.

Red or peat moss is best suited for insulation. The first is characterized by high rigidity. The second one becomes brittle after drying. If possible, it is best to use red moss. It is easy to recognize - it has long stems with leaves that resemble a Christmas tree.

Making joints

I make them for every door and window opening. For this I use a flat beam. If possible, there should be no knots at all. For greater convenience, I made an impromptu workbench directly next to my stack of lumber. Made longitudinal cuts. A circular saw helped me with this. Excess material was removed using a chisel.

Do correct jamb Not even every professional carpenter can do it. Therefore, I decided to make window jambs using simplified technology. In every window opening I will install only a couple of vertical jambs. Behind horizontal connection the window block will respond directly.

To install the block you need a “quarter”. However, here too I figured out how to simplify the task. Instead of sampling (it's shaded in the photo), I decided to glue in a strip. To do this, I sharpened the plane in advance. The result was no worse than it would have been in a situation using a quarter.

It is impossible to reduce the number of jambs in the doorway - all four are needed. However, the shape of the products can be significantly simplified.

I chose grooves in the block, which in the future will serve as a threshold, similar to the recesses in the side jambs. This allowed me to slide the bottom timber over the tenons of the opening. However, at this stage, the timber would have to be cut with a chisel across the wood fibers - not the most pleasant or simple task. I found a great way out of this situation! Taking a circular saw, I prepared the cuts by first setting the appropriate blade exit and making a rip fence.

Then I took a feather drill and made a hole 2.5 cm in diameter, just like for the dowels. Finally, I cut out an even rectangle across the wood grain. A reciprocating saw helped me with this.

Carpenters usually make two rectangular nests in the threshold, and at the bottom of each vertical jamb they create a counter protrusion, cutting down and sawing out excess wood using a chisel. I decided to make holes as for fastening dowels, and hammered in a couple of fasteners. I made similar holes at the bottom of the jambs.

Upper horizontal beam I haven’t touched it yet, but nailed a small board to the threshold - it will take on the functions of a “quarter”. The design of the opening turned out to be extremely simple, but this does not interfere with its ability to cope with its main function. Later I will plan the opening and glue the “quarters”.

Required Tools

To build a house from wooden beam I used the following tools and equipment:

• hammerless electric drill;
• circular saw;
• roulette;
• sledgehammer;
• electric plane;
• square;
• reciprocating saw;
• plumb line;
• hammer;
• water hose;
• axe.

I bought a circular saw to cut wooden beams. I had to cut in two steps. First, I drew a line along the square, after which I cut, turned the beam over and made the cut again. It is best to transfer the line to the second edge of the beam using a square. If you are confident in your “eye”, you can cut “by eye”.

Using a circular saw, I made tenons and recesses for the corner joints of the beams. When arranging the tenons, I lacked a slight depth of cut, so I had to make a couple of extra movements with a hacksaw.

We are building a house

Rules for laying the lower crown

Laying the starter crown is traditionally done with a joint known as "into the wood floor". This knot can be done without any problems circular saw– it is enough to cut the material lengthwise and crosswise. In some areas the depth of the cut turned out to be insufficient - here I worked with a hacksaw, after which I got rid of excess material using a chisel. By the way, in my case, the lower crown is the only one that is connected with nails.

I placed the lower crown on board linings. There are gaps between the elements - in the future I will make vents there. In my region they are usually in the wall, not in concrete base. This option has its advantages. Firstly, making vents in the wall is easier and faster. Secondly, at a certain elevation the wind moves at a higher speed than directly near the ground, due to which the underground will be better ventilated.

Cutting timber. Half-tree connection

I'm going to mount the floor beams on the pads - this way, I think, the loads on the base will be distributed more evenly.

The linings and timber of the lower crown were covered. As practice shows, the material laid at the very bottom rots most quickly. In my situation, there are pads underneath, and not the timber itself. In the future, if the boards rot, they can be replaced with much less effort than the beam of the lower crown.

Reciprocating saw prices

reciprocating saw

Features of laying the second and subsequent crowns

Starting from the second crown of masonry, work is carried out in the same order. At the corners I connected the timber with the help of root tenons - the usual joining of elements is unacceptable here.

Taking a circular saw, I trimmed a couple of cuts. I transferred the cutting line to the second face using a square. The root tenon is easy to do, everything is demonstrated in the photo. If the disk output is insufficient, the depth can be increased with a hacksaw. The groove is made even simpler. Also demonstrated, but in the photo.

Important note! Keep in mind that in tongue-and-groove joints there should be approximately a 0.5-centimeter gap for laying the seal. A connection in which the wood simply touches the wood is unacceptable.

I first set the cutting depth I needed. With my saw, you can change the output of the blade without any problems - you just need to loosen the lever. The add-on is convenient to use. If in traditional carpentry production the master sets some parameter of the working tool and prepares required amount blanks of the same type, then in carpentry the situation is somewhat different: the material is dragged onto the workbench, and the depth of the cut is adjusted directly as the work progresses.

My saw is equipped with a thin blade - it takes a lot of effort to make the cut. less effort. The safety guard moves very smoothly and does not interfere with the cut in any way.

The walls of my house will be longer than the timber, so I will have to join the building material. To do this, I made a notch at both ends of the long beam, removed the excess with a chisel, and got a tenon in the middle. The ledge is ready, now we need a groove. Cutting wood with a chisel across the grain is impractical. I used a trick and drilled a simple through hole in the second beam. The drill bit was not long enough to create a through hole, so I had to drill from both sides. Next, I cut off the excess wood from the workpiece, made markings and cut the timber along the grain using a chisel. Connected the spliced ​​beams. The gaps were filled with moss.

Helpful advice. In the crown, which is the beginning of the opening, it is better to immediately make spikes for the jambs of this opening. In the process of cutting timber, it will not be possible to completely make tenons with a saw; you will need to additionally chisel with a chisel to complete the process. In the next photo you see the beams already with fastening spikes. Thresholds for door openings are shown as templates.

I laid the second crown on the lower one, correctly performing the corner joints and the necessary splices along the length. It's time to make markings for installing dowels - the connectors of the crowns of my house under construction. I took a square and made vertical marks on the bars at the bottom and top, in the places where the fasteners would be placed. Turned over the top beam. I moved the markings to the center of my beam. Then I drilled holes for the fasteners and drove the dowels into them using a hammer.

What do you need to know about dowels?

Logically in round hole it would be necessary to drive in a round dowel. Builders adhere to a different technology and use square dowels. Such fasteners are simpler to manufacture and hold the connection much more reliably. In this case, a short dowel will not interfere with the process of shrinkage of the structure.

The problem is that it is impossible to drill a strictly vertical hole with a hand drill without the slightest deviation. When installing the beam of the next crown on a pointed and slightly protruding dowel, the first one will wobble a little. In order for the timber to be firmly fixed, it must be additionally hammered with a sledgehammer.

The dowels I use work for shear and ensure correct shrinkage even if there are slight deviations from the vertical in the mounting holes. There will be no gaps. Firstly, the timber will shrink. Secondly, the space between the crowns is filled with insulation, which I will discuss later.

Once I had to watch how builders made holes in a wall made of timber using long drill and they drove long round pins into them, outwardly similar to the handles of a shovel or a rake. Were such holes vertical? Naturally not. Ultimately, the beam did not settle, but seemed to “hang” on the dowels, which led to the formation of impressive gaps between the crowns.

Having driven in the dowels, I laid tow and moss on the crown. He laid the tow across the beams. The moss was simply thrown over the tow. As a result, tow hangs from the walls. This will make it easier for me to caulk the walls in the future. Moss will provide adequate insulation of the building.

I installed the beams on the dowels, laid the tow, threw on the moss, and besieged the crown with a sledgehammer, but for some reason it is still wobbly. This happens due to the presence of gaps in the corner joints. In my situation, the dimensions of these gaps were up to 0.5 cm. I densely filled them with moss. A spatula and a narrow strip of metal helped me with this.

The attentive reader will ask: what about tow? Shouldn't it be put in the corners too? No no need. Firstly, as I said earlier, moss is a very good natural antiseptic. My house will stand for quite a long time without any finishing, and sedimentary moisture will continually flow into the corners. Moss will prevent the wood from rotting in these places. Secondly, in the future the timber in the corners will probably have to be planed. Moss will not interfere with this. Tow can cause the plane to break.

Prices for tow

Now my corners are strong, insulated and windproof. At the end of the day I covered the corner joints to protect them from possible precipitation.

In the picture you can see that one of my beams is located higher than the other. But they must be at the same height. We are not in a hurry to immediately turn on the electric planer - such a problem can be easily dealt with using a simple sledgehammer.

I worked with a plane at the very end, when the obstacle to the installation of the next crown became clearly visible. I used a plane to compare small “screws” and “humps”. I compensated for more significant differences in height with the help of tow and moss - their arrangement takes much less time than processing wood with a plane.

Why should we build a house?

You have already become familiar with the basic principles of laying each crown. Eat important nuances. Firstly, the crowns must be laid with alternating corner joints. Secondly, the internal load-bearing wall of the house must be connected to the longitudinal wall. This is done through one crown. For binding I use an already proven and familiar connection. Only I drill the holes for the dowels “checkerboard” in relation to the lower rims. After this, I lay down the tow and moss, and placing each beam in its designated place, I seal the joints in the corners.

That is, the procedure for building a house is extremely simple:

• I'm laying out another crown;
• I make markings for dowels;
• I drill holes;
• I drive in wooden fasteners;
• I lay down the tow and throw moss on it;
• I repeat the sequence.

Along the length of the beams I join using the “staggered” method.

Having reached the height of the window sill (this is my seventh crown), I made markings for arranging the window openings. I calculated the width of each opening by adding the dimensions of the jambs and sealed gaps to the width of the purchased window block. There should be a pair of gaps on each side of the opening - between the jamb and the one being installed. window block, as well as between the jamb and the wall of the house. As a result, in my situation, the required width of the window opening was 1325 mm. Of this, 155 mm was spent on gaps.

Based on the calculation results, I installed a crown with a window opening, having previously cut tenons in the bars, similar to the stage with openings for doors.

The next crowns with a window opening were laid from timber without tenons, observing the same overall dimensions.

I constructed all the window openings from “short pieces”, the evenness of which was disrupted during the shrinkage of the timber - such material is not suitable for walls, and it would be a pity to throw it away. I didn't make any jumpers. While arranging the opening, I constantly checked its evenness using a plumb line. I also checked the walls.

I temporarily secured the separate partition with slats so that it would not fall during the work. The T-shaped structure, as well as the corner, do not require additional strengthening - they are perfectly supported by their own weight.

Important note! In places where the tenons of the opening and the cutting line are arranged, i.e. just a few centimeters from the edge, I did not lay the oakum, because... when cutting, it would wrap around the cutting disc. In the future, the tow can be tapped from the ends without any problems.

After laying the last crown with the window opening (it needs to be laid temporarily without fastening or compacting), I removed the top beams and made cuts for the tenons. He put blunts on them. Having set the saw blade to the required depth, I installed a parallel stop to maintain the required distance from the edge. It didn’t take me much time to do this kind of work. I was unable to cut the timber to the required depth with a circular saw - I had to finish it with a hacksaw.

I made tenons at the lower rim of the opening to control my assembly. I didn’t do this in the last crown - in the future, tenons will still have to be created in each beam.

On personal experience I was convinced that assembling the entire height of the opening for a window without a connection, and from not quite “short” ones, is not the easiest task.

Light and short cuttings can be tried on before creating a recess or tenon. It may well turn out that a block deviating to the right will fall on a beam that deviates to the left. As a result, a flat wall will be built. If both beams have a deviation in the same direction, you can’t count on the evenness of the wall.

To eliminate deviations, you can plan out the “screws” using a plane or lay the timber “ladder”. I had exactly the second case. I also eliminated the gap using a plane. At each stage, I checked the verticality of the openings being constructed using a plumb line.

Installing jambs and finishing work

The upper crown was laid. It's time to install the jambs of each opening. Thanks to these simple elements, strength will be significantly increased finished design. The bottom beam of each opening is equipped with a full-fledged tenon. On the upper beams there are cuts in the required places. I apply the guide, set the desired cutting depth and make the cut with a circular saw. After this, I draw a couple of lines from the ends according to the dimensions of the tenon and get rid of excess material using a chisel.

My tenons are smaller than the grooves. I fill the gaps with thermal insulation material. If you wish, you can make the tenons wider, and only then, at the stage of finishing the house, cut off the excess material and fill the gaps with sealant.

I inserted temporary spacers between the jambs. In the future, I planned to add a veranda to my house. If you are planning to make an extension, do not lay the top crown of the timber before starting its construction. I also mounted a smaller one on the crown.

The box is ready. I covered it with a temporary roof, closed every opening and left the house until the next season. The timber will have time to shrink. After that I will continue, which I will definitely tell you about in my next story.

Instead of a conclusion

While the house is shrinking, I decided to take stock. Firstly, I was pleased that I had to spend much less money on the foundation compared to other types of supports. It took a little money to dump the stone. There is also a lot of sand in my region - you can dig it yourself and bring it. Most of the money was spent on cement and reinforcement.

Secondly, I was pleased with the affordable price and relatively low consumption building material. When the timber was delivered to me, I laid it out in a stack about a meter high and two meters wide. At first it seemed that I had miscalculated somewhere and that I would not have enough material. As a result, about 20 beams remained unused. In general, for the construction of a house with dimensions of 6x10 m (the timber part of it is 6x7.5 m), I spent about 7.5 m3 of timber with a cross-section of 15x10 cm. For timber 15x15 cm I would have spent 1.5 times more money. And additional labor would have to be hired, which is also not free.

Thirdly, I saved on fasteners and thermal insulation. Nageli made it himself, the moss is free. My friends gladly gave the oakum to me after finishing their construction work.

Fourthly, I did not have to buy highly specialized and expensive tools. Everything that I used for construction will be useful to me on the farm in the future. I am especially pleased with the purchase of a good circular saw and concrete mixer.

Now about the speed of work. I didn’t have much experience in timber construction. As practice has shown, in a whole day, working with one hand and provided the weather is good outside, you can lay out one crown with a partition. You can do this either faster or slower, I won’t argue.

And the main advantage of such construction is that you do not need to have any special skills to carry it out. And I was personally convinced of this.

I hope that my story will be useful to you, and you can, just like me, make your dream of owning your own home come true.

Video - DIY timber house

Log houses are usually called various kinds wooden structures, the walls of which are erected using specially prepared materials and appropriate methods for connecting structural elements.

Typically, pre-treated logs are used for arranging a log house, but wooden beams are also well suited for such work. This is a cost-effective, environmentally friendly, extremely easy-to-use and process material.

The procedure for arranging a log house from timber is quite simple. Houses, bathhouses, garages and other buildings are built using the same technology. Familiarize yourself with the main features of the work, carry out all the planned activities consistently, and you will receive a reliable, high-quality and durable log frame.

The arrangement of a log house made of timber will be considered using the example of construction an ordinary house. Recommendations will be given not only for the direct construction of walls, but also for the preparation and installation of other structural elements.

Doing the work yourself will allow you to gain invaluable experience and significantly save on all activities, eliminating the need to attract specialists.

Start with a choice suitable material. The quality of the timber used directly determines the most important characteristics finished log house.

To carry out the activities under consideration, it is best to use profiled glued or dried wooden beams. Setting up a log house from such timber will not take much time and money. The timber is glued using a special waterproof glue. It does not prevent the wood from “breathing” and maintains its environmental friendliness at the highest level.

A budget option is to construct a log house from raw timber, but walls made of such material will require approximately 1 year to shrink. Only after complete shrinkage of the wood will it be possible to proceed to arrangement roofing structure, installation of double-glazed windows and other related activities.

Project preparation

Draw up (order, find in the public domain) a project for the future structure.

First of all, determine optimal sizes house, its area, features of the organization of internal premises.

Reflect in the project the installation locations of doors and double-glazed windows, the order of arrangement of various types of communications and other important points.

Foundation arrangement

A log house made of timber will have a relatively light weight. The optimal foundation option for this type of structure is a strip concrete foundation.

First step

Dig a trench around the perimeter of the future foundation. The depth of the trench is 80-100 cm. Select the specific value in accordance with the soil freezing depth for your region. Install the formwork.

Second step

Place a layer at the bottom of the trench sand and gravel mixture. Pack the pillow thoroughly.

Third step

Lay a reinforcing mesh of rods with a diameter of 10-12 mm on top of the pillow. Use steel wire to tie the rods together.

Fourth step

Pour the concrete. Pour in an even horizontal layer. Compact the poured concrete using a special vibrating tool. Also, such treatment will remove excess air from the concrete. If you don't have a special tool, pierce the fill with rebar in several places. In the future, the voids will need to be filled with solution.

The foundation will gain strength in 3-5 weeks. It is recommended to dismantle the formwork only after the foundation has completely hardened.

Bottom rail and floor

First step

Lay the bottom trim beam. Pre-coat the foundation waterproofing material(ruberoid).

Lay out the external walls from timber 15x15 cm, and the internal partitions and floor beams from material with a cross-section of 10x5 cm.

Second step

Treat the laid lower crown with an antiseptic.

Third step

Fourth step

Secure the subfloor boards over the laid joists. It is important that both sides are covered thermal insulation material. For insulation, you can use backfill materials or mineral wool.

Lay the subfloor from 2.5x15 cm boards.

Fifth step

Lay the finished floor boards. A tongue and groove board is good for this.

Construction of walls

To fasten the rows, use dowels - these are vertical wooden pins that provide reliable fastening of the timber and prevent it from moving and loosening of the rows.

Using one dowel, 2-3 crowns are usually connected. To perform such fastening, you must first make holes in the timber with a diameter of about 30-40 mm. The recommended pitch between dowels is 150 cm.

Place sealing material, for example, tow or jute, between the crowns.

External walls are best connected using a joint known as a warm corner. The technology for such a connection is as follows: you create a tenon in one of the joined elements, and make a groove of the same size in the second beam.

Alternate different layers of wooden beams with tenons and grooves. Such a connection ensures the highest rigidity of the structure, and the corners being arranged are windproof.

Internal partitions must be cut into load-bearing walls. Arrange the partitions only after the construction of the log house has been completed.

If you are building two-storey house dimensions of more than 6x6 m, at least one internal partition must be made on the lower floor. It will serve as additional support for the floor of the upper floor.

If you need to save on construction activities, you can make internal partitions according to frame technology. To do this, assemble a frame from 4x4 or 5x5 cm timber, and then simply sheathe it wooden clapboard or other suitable material.

All wooden structural elements must be treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant.

At this stage, you will install beams, rafters and sheathing in accordance with the features of the selected roofing structure.

Build the walls of the attic and lay the ceiling joists. Place these elements so that they protrude about half a meter beyond the base of the external walls.

Make the logs from 15x10 cm timber. Lay them on the edge with a pitch of 900 mm.

To arrange the rafter system, use 15x5 cm boards. This structure is the frame of the roof, so try to make it as rigid and durable as possible. To further strengthen the structure, use racks, crossbars, and braces.

Fix the rafter legs in increments of up to 1 m. After the frame is completely ready, proceed to laying out the fronts. To make them, use 15x15 cm timber. The fronts can also be made from siding, or you can board them with a 2.5x15 cm board.

Finally, nail a sheathing of 2.5 x 15 cm boards onto the rafters in increments of up to 40 cm.

Fix layers of moisture, heat and vapor barrier material, and then install your preferred finishing roofing material.

Installation of doors and double-glazed windows

In the places where doors and windows are installed, cut out an opening of the appropriate size. The doors and double-glazed windows themselves can be installed only after the wood has completely shrunk.

By the way, you can also find out about repairing double-glazed windows with your own hands on our website.

At the end, all you have to do is complete the finishing touches Finishing work at your own discretion, connect the necessary communications, arrange furniture, appliances and interior items.

Good luck!

Video - Do-it-yourself log house

Timber is used quite often in the construction of private houses. This is due to its environmental friendliness and versatility. This material is also quite easy to use and install. The technology of building houses is simple and does not require much time. To understand how to assemble a log house yourself, you should familiarize yourself with the process in more detail.

general information

The timber is made from whole tree trunks. They are cut on 4 sides, resulting in rectangular building elements.

There are several types of timber:

• glued - consists of lamellas connected together;
• profiled timber - has grooves, due to which it reliably adheres to adjacent structural elements;
• regular - has a rectangular or square shape.

Advice! Raw timber is cheaper than other types of material.

Particular attention should be paid to profiled timber. It is usually equipped with special grooves on both sides. Thanks to this solution, docking various elements happens easily and quickly. At the same time, cracks and distortions do not form in the timber.

It is also worth mentioning the features of laminated veneer lumber. This material is made from different elements, which are glued to each other using a special compound. Such timber does not dry out over time. Also, there are no cracks in it.

Design

To install a log frame with your own hands, you will need good preparation. In any case, construction begins with a project. It should reflect the dimensions of the building, the materials used, as well as a drawing of the building with a detailed description. This will allow you to build just such a house from timber that will meet all the customer’s requests. In addition, with the help of design, you can quite accurately calculate the amount of materials used.

At the stage of designing a house made of timber, it is worth thinking through many little things that you will have to face in the future:

• it is necessary to decide where the material will be purchased, as well as where it will be stored until construction begins;
• what communications will be carried out to the site, and which have already been carried out;
• it is also necessary to contact a local architectural bureau for permission before starting work;
• drawing up an estimate is an important stage in creating a house made of timber.

Attention! When calculating the dimensions of a building, the cross-section of the timber should be taken into account. The standard parameters are 100x100 and 200x200 mm.

Also quite a popular option is 15x15cm timber. After finishing preparatory stage construction can begin.

Construction

In the process of building a house from timber, a number of subsequent stages will need to be completed, starting with pouring the foundation and ending with building the roof. Each of them will require the most responsible approach to work.

Foundation

The durability of a timber house depends on the quality of the poured foundation. This type of work is one of the most important when building a house. In addition, building the foundation is the most difficult stage. However, if all the subtleties are observed, such work can be done independently.

First, you should decide what type of foundation to choose for a house made of timber. Particularly popular among private developers strip foundation. It is usually built for multi-level buildings. You can also install a pile or monolithic foundation. In the latter case, the cost of pouring the base will be significant. In addition, such foundations are usually not built for timber - wooden structures are light in weight.

What type of foundation will be chosen for a house made of timber depends on the landscape features of the site. The cost of the foundation is equal to 30% of the budget of the entire structure. The filling process is quite complicated, so you will have to be patient.

Advice! To make the installation of a timber house foundation faster and more convenient, you can purchase screw piles. They are installed in 1 day.

Laying the first crown

First, the bottom trim is laid. This structural element is more exposed to bad weather and insects than others. The foundation should be as level as possible. The first crown is always treated with an antiseptic. This will ensure its full protection from various negative influences.

Important! When laying the external walls of a house made of timber, you should use 150x150 mm timber. When installing internal partitions and floor beams, it is better to choose 100x50 mm timber.

Flooring and walls

After installing the bottom trim, the timber flooring logs of the house are laid. It is better if they are mounted on an edge. The joists are covered with a subfloor. It should be made from boards 25x150 mm. The work of laying the floor is completed by laying the final covering. It is usually made from tongue and groove boards.

Walls

The walls are quite simple to build. In the process of work, you just need to lay the beams on top of each other. The main thing is to carry out correct installation first crown. To fasten the rows vertically, special elements are used - dowels. They prevent the beam from twisting or moving. Wood or metal can be used as a material for dowels.

When choosing wooden pins, they are made from the type of wood from which the timber itself is made. Metal dowels are more reliable and more expensive.

The pins are driven in as in the case of brickwork. The dowels are driven through several rows, one at a time. Holes of the appropriate diameter should be pre-drilled for the pins. The pins must be inserted effortlessly. They are installed every one and a half meters.

Important! To insulate the walls and give them greater strength, a sealant should be laid between the rows. Tow should be used as a material.

It is best to make a corner connection of the “warm corner” type. The corners are not blown through with this connection. Partitions must be embedded into main walls. Their installation is carried out after the construction of the frame.

Window openings are cut out after laying the timber. Then the house must be left for 1-2 years to shrink. Only after this can the doors and windows themselves be installed.

Roof

Beams ceiling, as well as the rafter system and sheathing are laid according to the project. The drawings must indicate all materials used and the dimensions of each element. After the walls are built, it is necessary to lay logs protruding 50 cm beyond the base.

To make the roof as reliable as possible, you should choose a beam of 150x100 mm. Wooden elements mounted on edge. There should be 90 cm between them. After this, you need to collect rafter system. For it, it is better to choose 5x15 cm boards. This structure will be the basis of the roof, so it should be strengthened with crossbars, braces and racks.

After the frame is installed, you can start laying out the fronts. Their frame is made of 150x150 mm timber. Board or siding is used as cladding. On last stage it is necessary to nail down the sheathing from boards 2.5x15 cm. The sheathing should be done in increments of no more than 400 mm.

The roof covering is made of various materials:

• metal tiles;
• corrugated sheeting;
• ondulin;
• roofing felt

Usually along with the house suburban area They immediately arrange a bathhouse. That is why its construction is worth considering in more detail.

Log bathhouse

Construction technology in this case is not much different from the method of constructing a house from timber. However, several features should be taken into account during the construction process. There are specific instructions for building a bathhouse:

First the foundation is done. More optimal options- pile or strip type of foundation. Their choice depends on the characteristics of the soil.

Then the material is selected. Most suitable for building a bathhouse is laminated or profiled timber 150x150 mm, made of softwood.

The first crown is placed on top of it, as well as logs for flooring and partitions inside the building. The floor must be sloping towards the drain. The drain should be equipped with a water lock to prevent cold air from entering through it.

After this, it is necessary to lay the wall beams in the “end tongue” or in the “foot”. As during the construction of a house, pins can be used to fasten the crowns.

When installing a stove, it should be taken into account that the firebox is located in the steam room, and the water tank is located in the washing compartment. If you have experience in building a log house, installing a bathhouse will not be difficult.

conclusions

As you can see, creating a log house from timber is not very difficult. Even with little construction experience, you can do all the work yourself. The result will be a reliable and durable house that will be built in the shortest possible time.

If the house has a complex structure, you should consult with professionals before construction. It is also better to prepare all tools and materials in advance before work.

A house made of timber is assembled in stages. First you need to pour the foundation. The choice of foundation type depends on the characteristics of the soil and the number of storeys of the building. It is better to choose tape or pile foundation. After this, walls are erected. They must have the most accurate geometry. The crowns are fastened using dowels.

Technology for assembling a log frame for a house or bathhouse

Organization of a workplace for assembling walls

To ensure the work progresses, the beams are laid out in a stack at a distance of 5-6 meters from the building on one or, better yet, both sides. Each layer of beams in a stack is placed on spacers made of boards.

Next to the stack will be equipped workplace for marking and cutting beams. A variant of such a workplace is shown in the figure.

It is convenient to mark the timber using a template at a height of 0.9 - 1.1 meters in the marking area, node A in the figure. After marking, the timber is lowered onto low pads into the cutting area. In this position, it is convenient and safe to cut the timber with a chain saw.

The cut timber is lifted onto the wall. To facilitate the ascent, slopes are arranged - inclined beams, whose upper end rests on the upper crown of the log house. The timber is moved along the slopes using a rope.

Wedge-shaped stops are nailed to the slopes, which make lifting the beam safer. In addition to safety, the stops allow you to get by with little force. Even one person can, if necessary, lift the beam, fixing it with stops at intermediate points.

It is most convenient to carry out work on assembling a log frame from timber with a team of four people. You can work together, but the work will just go slower.

Scaffolding is constructed to install the upper rims of the log house and the roof.

Three-tier scaffolding on the gable of the house. 1 — extreme racks; 2 - L-shaped scaffolding stand of the first tier on the side facade; 3 - flooring; 4 — central racks; 5 — cruciform braces (shown conditionally); 6 - bosses

The assembly of the upper crowns of the log house is carried out from the level of the first tier. The flooring of the first tier is laid on L-shaped racks, pos. 2 in the picture. The racks are installed around the walls of the house and attached to the walls using bosses, pos. 6.

At the stage of constructing the roof (attic), on the facades where the installation of pediments is necessary, scaffolding has to be made in three tiers. To construct scaffolding racks, boards 50 x 150 are used. mm. Flooring is made from the same boards.

Working from scaffolding is more convenient, faster and safer than from ladders - don’t forget about this.

Marking beams for wall assembly

Practical construction experience shows that it is not realistic to keep in mind the sequence of marking the elements of corner joints.

Before starting work, draw a diagram of the assembly of the walls of the house, which indicates: the serial number of the crown, the type of connecting element at the ends of the blanks, the position of the openings in the wall.

An example of a house wall assembly diagram is shown in the figure:

Scheme for marking corner joints of timber and joints of parts of longitudinal walls, for a house with overall dimensions 6x9 meters. A And WITH- longitudinal walls; D And B- transverse walls; E- internal wall made of timber - partition; 1 - joints of beams.

For the house shown in the diagram, each crown consists of 7 pieces of beams ranging in length from 3 to 6 m.

The crown of the longitudinal wall consists of two parts: the main beam standard length 6 meters and extension, 3 meters long. On one crown, long beams are laid on the left, and extensions on the right. On the next crown, laying begins in in a similar manner, but on the right.

The parts of the crown of the transverse wall and the partition are made from one beam of a standard length of 6 meters.

To eliminate cold bridges in external walls, the joints of the beams of the longitudinal wall, item 1, are made by making vertical cuts “into the floor of the tree” with an overlap of 15 - 20 cm. The timber in the corners of the crowns is connected into a dressing with a root tenon (see below for more details).

How to correctly and quickly mark tenons, grooves and other profiles, ensure identical dimensions of lumber blanks?

The easiest way to do this is using templates. The template is placed on the beam and the outline of the template profiles is transferred to the surface of the beam with a marker.

It’s more convenient, faster to mark and it will be less mistakes, if the template completely follows the contour of the part and has the same length as the part being marked. I placed the template on the timber and immediately transferred all the dimensions and profiles to the workpiece.

For our example, we will need to make seven templates, corresponding to the number of parts in the crown. One template is used to mark two mirrored wall parts.

If you think about it, the number of templates can be reduced. Let's look at how to make universal templates for marking parts of the longitudinal walls of a house (see above for the wall assembly diagram).

Two templates (highlighted brightly) yellow) for marking the beams of longitudinal walls. 4 — groove for the main tenon; 5 - groove for tenon interior wall; 6 - sample; 7 - finishing beam.

The picture above shows the template for marking the main beam in the crown, in which the extension is located on the right. On the wall marking diagram, these are crowns A1, A3, A5 and C1, C3, C5.

Bottom template serves for marking the main beam in the crowns with extension on the left - A2, A4, A6 and C2, C4, C6.

The templates are the same at first glance, but differ in that the grooves, item 5, for connecting to the partition, are located in different places in the templates.

The same templates are used to mark the parts of the extensions. To do this, on the templates at points b And With through holes are drilled, and at points A And d cuts are made.

To mark the extension, the template is placed on the beam and points are made on the surface of the workpiece through holes and cuts.

Remember this technique when making holes in the template. This will help you create universal templates in many other cases.

The templates are made from planed inch boards.

As a result, we manage to reduce the number of templates from seven to three (2 for longitudinal walls and 1 for transverse walls). Two longitudinal templates (right and left) provide the ability to obtain blanks for longitudinal walls, and one transverse template allows you to prepare parts for transverse walls and partitions.

Now let's look at how templates are used. To mark the first beam of the crown (for example, starting from the left), the left template is laid on the beam and the end of the template on the left is outlined with a marker, then two grooves and, finally, a recess for the connection “into the floor of the tree”. The marked timber is transferred to the cutting site, where unnecessary fragments (it is better to mark them out)
hatch) are cut with a chain saw.

How to mark parts with spikes? Obviously, the tenon and groove are elements of the same unit, which means they must match each other in size and location. In a part with a tenon, a tenon is marked in place of the groove.

If the groove dimensions are 5×5 cm, then the spike should have dimensions - 4.5 × 4.5 cm. The gap is filled with inter-crown insulation.

The template profile is transferred to the upper edge of the beam. The markings are transferred to the vertical edge of the beam using a square. Accurate cuts are made using these markings.

How to assemble smooth walls from timber of different widths

The technical conditions (TS) for the manufacture of timber allow deviations in the size of the timber in one direction or another from the standard value specified in the documents.

If the purchase documents indicate standard dimensions of timber, for example, section 150x150 mm. and length is 6 meters, then the actual dimensions will differ from the standard.

Each beam in a batch of timber brought to the construction site will differ from the dimensions indicated in the documents by several millimeters. The cross-sectional dimensions and length of the bars will be different.

The variation in sizes must be taken into account when developing templates, marking timber and assembling walls.

How to assemble smooth walls if the beams are different in width and length?

b— minimum beam width; delta b- the difference between a narrow and wide beam.

Obviously from timber different widths, you can make only one surface of the wall flat - either from the outside or from the inside of the building.

If they want to make the outside wall of the house smooth, then All beams in the wall are aligned along the outer edge. Then, inside the house, wide beams will protrude from the wall by the amount of “delta b"(the difference between narrow and wide bars). Alignment along the outer edge leads to an increase in gaps in the corner joint of the beams (see figure).

If the beams in the wall are aligned along the inner edge, then the “steps” from the protruding beams will be already outer surface walls. The outside of the wall is usually sheathed. And if you chamfer the outer edges of the timber, then the steps on the wall will be invisible even without cladding. Corner connections the beams are more dense and “warm”.

How and with what to connect the crowns of a log house

Each crown of the log house is connected to lower crown metal or wooden dowels. The dowels are placed at a distance of approximately 250-300 mm from the end of the beam and then every 1-1.5 meters of the length of the beam.

Each detail of the crown is secured with at least two dowels. The length of the dowel must be at least 1.5 times greater than the height of the beam.

cm., pos. 1.

Round steel dowels with a diameter of 6-8 mm.- pins with a pointed end or nails (6x200-250 mm), simply hammer into the beams of the crowns, option a on the image.

The upper ends of dowels made of any material must be buried into the timber by 2-4 cm. If this is not done, then when the timber dries and the log house shrinks, the dowels will be higher than the timber and will lift the upper crown. A large gap forms between the crowns.

For the same reason Driven pins cannot be made from reinforcing steel. The corrugated surface of such dowels will keep the crown beams from moving when the log house shrinks, even if the dowel is buried into the timber. The crowns will simply hang on such dowels.

Small-diameter steel hammer-in dowels cannot always provide the necessary wall rigidity, especially with long wall spans. Their use can be recommended for small buildings - for example, baths. To increase the rigidity of the walls of large buildings, it is necessary to install dowels of increased diameter.

Steel dowels with a diameter of 10 millimeters or more, as well as wooden dowels, are inserted into pre-drilled holes in the timber. The diameter of the holes is made slightly smaller than the diameter of the dowel.

When the dowel fits tightly into the hole, the rigidity of the wall increases, but the risk that the dowels will interfere with the shrinkage of the frame increases.

Wooden dowels with a diameter of 25-30 mm Convenient to cut from round cuttings for tools. Such cuttings are made from hardwood. It is recommended to chamfer the lower end of the dowel - it will be easier to drive the dowel into the hole.

You can cut 25x25 square dowels from a regular “inch” board mm. One end of the workpiece is chamfered. Such pins are driven into a hole made with a drill with a diameter of 24 mm.

The ribs of such a dowel, made of relatively “soft” coniferous wood, become crushed when hammered in, the wood becomes compacted, ensuring a fairly tight fit of the dowel in the hole.

How to properly drill holes in timber for dowels

The depth of the holes in the wall for installing dowels must exceed at least 4 cm. dowel length. Moreover, the hole must be free of chips.

For drilling holes in timber that are deep enough and large diameter, a low-speed electric drill (drill) is usually used. The passport of a power tool usually indicates what diameter of drilling in a particular material the drill is designed for. Considering the large drilling depth, it is better to choose a drill with a power reserve.

To drill holes in timber, it is convenient to equip the drill with a stop, as shown in the figure.

The stop block is attached to the drill with steel clamps.

Emphasis, in the form wooden block, attached to the drill, for example, with clamps. The stop stops drilling at the required depth, but the rotation of the drill does not stop after that. Continuing to rotate in one place, the drill clears the hole from chips, grinds in and then easily comes out of the deep hole.

It is convenient to drill holes for connecting the crowns in a beam that is already installed on the wall in the design position on the inter-crown insulation. But here it's usual A problem arises - the crown gasket cannot be drilled. The fibers of the spacer material simply wrap around the drill bit and clamp it.

You have to install the beam on the wall in two steps. First, the timber is mounted without a gasket and temporarily secured from displacement, for example, with nails. Drill holes for dowels. Then the timber is moved from the wall and inter-crown insulation is laid.

At drilling sites cut the gasket with a sharp knife. Then, the removed beam is put back in place, this time on the gasket, and secured with dowels.

Drilling holes in timber laid on a wall should be done while standing on a solid foundation - scaffolding, scaffolding, flooring. Standing on a narrow wall and drilling is dangerous. The drill can “bite” powerful drill will turn around and easily throw the worker off the wall.

How to make a straight wall from crooked timber

Some of the timber delivered to the construction site may be bent. The beam can have a curvature in one plane, or it can be twisted with a screw and become diamond-shaped in cross-section.

If possible, it is better not to use curved beams for the walls of a house or bathhouse. It is recommended to cut beams with curvature into smaller pieces and use them in other, less critical places.

A small amount of timber that has curvature in one plane can be used to mount walls. You should not lay such a beam into a wall with its convexity up or down, in the hope that it will straighten under the weight of the house - the beam will not straighten, even if it is placed in the lower crowns.

The crooked beam is laid in the wall, straightening it in horizontal plane as shown in the picture.

The crooked beam is straightened sequentially by fixing it with dowels

The curved beam is drilled, aligning it with the straight beam at the drilling points. After laying the inter-crown insulation, the curved beam is fixed with dowels at one end and, when unbent, is sequentially fixed with dowels at other points.

Unbending the beam does not require much effort. A lever and bracket will help make work easier

Inter-crown gasket - insulation, sealant

For cold protection, a gasket is placed between the crowns. Previously, moss or flax tow were used for this. Currently, special cushioning materials based on flax wool or flax jute are available for sale. The material is sold in the form of a roll of tape with a width of 20 cm.

A strip of cushioning material is laid along the entire upper edge of the beam in two or three layers and secured with staples using a construction stapler.

If the wall is not sheathed, then the gasket should be 1-2 inches from the outer edge of the beam. cm., otherwise it will get wet.

Some craftsmen lay the cushioning material in one layer and suggest caulking the joints after the frame shrinks, adding additional material to the voids of the joints. In this option we have less consumption of cushioning material.

The work of caulking joints is quite labor-intensive and tedious. It is better to immediately lay a thicker sealant, in several layers (three layers), to eliminate the need to caulk horizontal joints.

How to control the correct assembly of a log house

During the construction of a house or bathhouse, it is necessary to regularly check the correct assembly of the log frame. To do this, it is enough to control the following five parameters:

• Verticality of corners.
• The height of corners and walls.
• Horizontality of the crowns and upper edges of the timber.
• Straightness of walls.
• The quality of installation of inter-crown insulation.

For control of vertical angles The following method is used.

To control the verticality of the angle, a vertical line is applied on each side of the crown. 1 - lower trim; 2 - crowns; 3 — control lines; 4 - base.

On each side of the crown, a vertical line is drawn at the same distance from the corner edge.

At correct installation For crowns, this line should be straight and coincide with the vertical. The verticality of the line is checked with a plumb line.

If deviations are found, the work is suspended and the cause is eliminated.

The height of corners and walls is measured roulette. Measurement is carried out from the base horizontal line, which is applied to the strapping beam using a water level.

Horizontality of crowns and top faces timber is checked by level.

Straightness of walls determined visually by pulling a cord along the wall.

The verticality and height of the corners should be especially carefully and constantly checked. Deviations from verticality are eliminated, up to the replacement of the timber in the crown. The height of the corners is adjusted by increasing the thickness of the gasket between the rims in the sagging corners. Sometimes it helps if you tap a sledgehammer on a beam in a high corner.

The quality and thickness of the installation of inter-crown insulation is checked visually by inspecting the walls.

Window and door openings in a log house

From the second crown they begin to form doorways. The distance from the floor level to the window is chosen in the range of 70 - 90 cm.

Laying timber in crowns in the area of ​​openings has its own characteristics.

A - layout of openings in the wall, where: 1 - wall; 2 - door opening; 3 - pier; 4 - window opening. V — diagram of timber cutting, where c is the remainder of the cutting. G - option for constructing an opening in a log house with the installation of temporary fastening bars, item 7. d - option with installation of decks in the opening, item 6 - we immediately get an opening ready for installing a door or window.

In practice, two options are used for forming openings when assembling a log house.

One option is " G" on the image. The opening is made in draft, only preparations are made to create an opening. The opening is not prepared for the installation of doors and windows immediately when assembling the log house. This work is left for later - usually done after the frame has shrunk.

This option allows you to speed up the assembly work of the log house. Beams must be installed in the opening to fasten the partition to the log house, item 7 in the figure. At least two such beams are installed in the doorway.

During the shrinkage of the log house, the piers can “lead” inward or outward. To prevent this, timber in the walls is fastened with vertically installed boards.

In another version - " d"in the figure, the openings are immediately prepared for the installation of doors and windows. To do this, install decks (windows) in the openings - a vertical beam with a groove, item 6 in the figure. The tenon of the wall beam fits into the groove. In this way, the partition beam is fixed from displacement. In this option, the openings are immediately ready for the installation of doors and windows.

Decks (windows) traditionally serve not only to connect timber in the opening, but also serve as window slopes, window sills. To do this, they are carefully processed and chamfered.

Option for installing a window in a wall made of timber: 1 - finishing the window slopes; 2 - a vertical frame board with a tenon strip, fits into the groove of the wall beam; 3 — plastic window frame; 4 - sealing tape PSUL

IN modern conditions, during installation plastic windows and the installation of plastic slopes and window sills, decks (jambs) can be omitted. The beams in the opening are fastened like this. At the ends of the beams along the entire length of the opening, a vertical groove is cut out and a rail is inserted there, which secures the pier beams from displacement.

The length of the deck (plug) or slats should be less than the height of the opening by 5-7 cm so as not to interfere with the shrinkage of the log house.

Timber for home, bathhouse in your city

How to properly install windows in a timber wall

If the opening in the wall was made in draft form (see above), then the installation of the window begins with cutting out the opening under right size. To do this, a lath is filled along the edge of the cut, item 2 in the figure, and the beams are sawed off along the edge of the lath with a chain saw.

Correct installation windows in the wall made of timber. 1 - wall; 2 - rail; 3 - platband; 4 - window; 5 - window box; 6 - wall beam above the window; 7 — interventional insulation; 8 — shrinkage gap above the window and deck; 9 — window frames; 10 - wall beam (pier); 11 - deck; 12 - nail.

Then, using a circular saw, tenons are cut out at the ends of the wall beams (wall). The deck, pos. 11, is placed on the tenons, pos. 10, with a groove. The joints are sealed with insulation. The deck is nailed to the wall beam with nails driven in at an angle, pos. 12. This way the nails will not interfere with the shrinkage of the frame.

A window frame is inserted into the opening prepared in this way, which is attached to the deck with self-tapping screws. Above the window box be sure to leave a gap, pos. 8, to compensate for the shrinkage of the log house. Gap size 5-7 cm. The gap is filled with soft insulating material.

An expansion gap must also be left above the upper end of the deck.

Openings are prepared in the same way and doors are inserted into the walls made of timber.

After completing the assembly of the first floor of the house, the log house is covered with beams of interfloor or attic (if the building is one-story) floor.

Can be structural element. And they can also perform an independent function.

The next page describes the structure of a broken roof of a house made of timber, where the floor beams at the same time serve as an element power frame mansard roof.

Watch the video clip, which describes and shows in some detail the technology for installing a log house from construction timber.